Do-it-yourself electric trimmer repair

Modern technologies and equipment make it possible to produce the best and optimal technical solutions that become effective assistants in the arrangement of a summer cottage or a personal plot. The green lawn and other plantings can grow rapidly, a petrol cutter is used to tidy up the local area and mow the lawns, which is also called a brushcutter or trimmer, a petrol mower.

Traditional braids are inconvenient and unsafe to use, require a significant investment of time and effort, which will help save gas mowers, combining functionality and practicality in their design. In the photo of the petrol brush, you can see various high-tech devices, which are inherent in a set of operational characteristics, including such parameters as increased productivity and a long service life.

A convenient and reliable trimmer is a technical device consisting of individual mechanisms, parts and elements that can wear out, become unusable and damaged during intensive use.

Even with regular technical inspection, maintenance procedures and careful storage, such devices and their individual parts require repair and even replacement, all repair procedures can be performed independently.

Brief content of the article:

The easiest way is to give the petrol cutter for repairs, having allocated a certain amount of funds from the family budget, prompt and high-quality repair with your own hands is no less simple and convenient if you want to understand the design of the petrol cutter and fix all the problems.

The mass and piece production of trimmers is based on the use of generally accepted technology, a typical design scheme consists of certain elements and parts, it is important to know them when carrying out independent repair work:

• top part. The basis of the entire structure, where all the important elements are collected, such as a starter, a carburetor and a petrol cutter engine;
• middle part. A hollow rod, inside it is a cable that connects the motor and the gearbox, which drives the cutting line. In this part, there are fasteners for distributing the weight of the entire structure and a belt for fixing the trimmer on the belt of a person using the trimmer for its intended purpose;
• Bottom part. It houses the gearbox and cutting elements, which are hidden under a practical cover to protect the user. The casing provides an increased level of safety, preventing large fractions of debris, stones and glass from entering a person while working with a petrol cutter.

Knowing exactly the internal structure and the principle of operation of the trimmer, you can independently carry out repair measures for the structure or replace individual components that have become unusable, using the repair instructions.

The most common and common failures of the unit that need to be corrected on their own include the following problems:

• engine malfunction, due to which the brushcutter does not start and does not work;
• increased vibration of the brushcutter bar, which complicates its intended use;
• increased overheating of the gearbox, its accelerated heating during operation;
• slow and weak functioning of the cutting line at insufficient speed;
• clogging of the starter grille, causing overheating of the engine and its refusal to work;
• fast and frequent clogging of the carburetor due to the use of low-quality fuel;
• clogging of the air filter due to non-observance of the measures for the care of the device.

All these problems can lead to the fact that the device will lose its working capacity. Before ordering the necessary spare parts for the mowing, a visual inspection and diagnostics of the device should be carried out.

Particular attention should be paid to individual spare parts and units of the device, to check them you will not have to contact a professional master, a set of diagnostic measures will help you to identify the consequence of a loss of performance with your own hands.

If the trimmer motor does not start or stalls immediately after starting, when the gearbox overheats or during the operation of the device, extraneous noises are heard and vibration is clearly felt, it is important to visually inspect and identify a non-working unit.

To optimize the preparatory measures before repairs, you should carry out a simple diagnosis and check in stages:

• the presence of fuel in the tank and lubrication in the main units;
• serviceability of the spark plug and its performance;
• the cleanliness of the fuel and air filter of the brushcutter;
• clogging of the outlet channel and breather of the device;
• the quality of the fuels and lubricants used.

To determine the functional performance of the petrol-cutter's ignition, it is necessary to determine whether the spark plug is working by testing the appearance of a spark when it comes into contact with the body of the functional device.

The spark plug itself can be replaced with a new one, having previously dried the candle channel, if necessary, the old element is also dried, cleaned with special devices and returned to its place.

In the process of inspecting the carburetor, it is worth paying attention to the possible leakage of the fuel used; in order to identify problems with the carburetor, the following measures must be taken:

• purging the fuel hose to eliminate possible blockage of the element;
• checking and replacing the gasket between the engine and the carburetor;
• determination of tightness and maintenance of constant pressure in the unit.

If necessary, you can personally disassemble and thoroughly clean the unit using gasoline, the jet and channels are cleaned using compressed air.

The gearbox transmits torque from the motor shaft to the cutting tool, its gears during operation must be absolutely clean and always lubricated with special grease.

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Carrying out a technical inspection on your own once a season will allow you to get rid of the need to repair the gearbox or replace it, with the purchase of an expensive new unit.

The starter is necessary to bring the trimmer into working condition, its diagnostics consists in checking the tension of the starter cord connected to the teeth of the starter coil, which are often destroyed during an abrupt start.

A non-working starter in a petrol cutter cannot be repaired; it must be replaced with a working unit as part of a mandatory technical inspection or a set of repair measures.

Cutting elements require special attention and care, which must always be cleaned of dirt and cut grass after use. Regular inspection and thorough preparation of the device for operation will help to avoid costly and time-consuming repairs, and always be confident in the performance of the petrol brush.

Very often, complaints from owners of gasoline trimmers are associated with various kinds of carburetor malfunctions. Of course, in this case, it is best to seek help from specialists in this field, for whom the repair of carburetors of gasoline trimmers is an integral part of the profession. However, if you are still familiar with the basic principles of the trimmer carburetor, you can try to figure out the problem yourself, so as not to overpay money in the service, since sometimes the breakdown can be really frivolous.

This article is just intended to help you deal with the problem.

Next, we will analyze the most common breakdowns and the reasons for their occurrence.

The first step is to generally inspect the carburetor and find out if there is any fuel leakage.

If it turns out that there are no problems with fuel, it is necessary to remove the carburetor from the engine and check the condition of the gasket located next to the carburetor.

If no malfunctions are observed here, you can try to check the carburetor for tightness.

To do this, you can purchase a special device, which is part of the tool kits for repairing the carburetor repair of mowers and representing a special pressure gauge that, in fact, checks the tightness.

If you don't want to spend money on its purchase, you can use a conventional medical tonometer, on which you just need to change the pressure gauge.

When using this device, pay attention to the indication.

If the pressure does not drop and remains the same for a long time, you can rest assured, as this indicates the tightness of the carburetor.

If the pressure begins to decrease after a certain time, then there are still problems.

They can be associated with damage to any parts of the carburetor.

Before running to the nearest repair shop or specialty store selling trimers and spare parts, try to figure out the problem yourself. Sorry for the banality, but the brushcutter carburetor is not a spaceship of an extraterrestrial civilization, and it is quite possible to repair it with your own hands. To be confident in your actions, read the step-by-step instructions provided in this article.

A visual inspection of the carburetor will help detect fuel leakage and air leakage, but the main reasons for the failure of the device lie inside. Therefore, in order to determine and most importantly fix the breakdown, the carburetor must be disassembled.

It does not take much effort to disassemble the carburetor of the brushcutter.

It is enough to unscrew four screws on one side

and two on the other. This can be done using a regular Phillips screwdriver. Unscrew the screws carefully and fold them to the side. They may be needed during assembly. It is advisable to cover the table with a white cloth before disassembling so that you can see everything, even the smallest details that may fall out during disassembly.

We start disassembling from the side of the fuel supply system.

We remove the primer - a pumping bubble, which is remarkable, it is simply impossible to install the carburetor parts incorrectly during assembly. Products have characteristic ebb and flow.

Now we remove the membrane. It is she who performs the function of pumping fuel into the carburetor.

When the membrane vibrates, the other side exerts pressure on the rocker of the mechanism and the needle rises, which, in turn, opens the hole and fuel is supplied.

Remove the carburetor cover with the injection mechanism.

Further, another membrane is installed. We carefully remove it.

There is another gasket under the membrane. We also carefully remove it, without damaging it in any way.

Next, we move on to dismantling the parts from the back of the carburetor. As mentioned earlier, we unscrew the two bolts. This is already an air supply system.

A valve is located here, which, when gas is added, opens and increases the flow of air into the engine.

After removing it, a bare body remains in the hands. The carburetor is disassembled.

Identification of faults and their elimination

Now it is worth paying attention to the problems that occur during the operation of the carburetor and how to fix them.

The first thing that happens is that the holes and jets in the fuel supply system are clogged with dirt. Filters installed in the tank and directly in the carburetor do not help.They still allow small particles to pass through, which cause brushcutter failure.

Now we need to get the needle.

To do this, unscrew the bolt on the mechanism, holding it with your finger. The fact is, there is a spring there and a careless action will lead to the fact that it is lost.

We take out the needle, see photo and spring.

How to purge. The most effective way is to use an ultrasonic bath.

It is filled with either a special liquid or gasoline, a carburetor is placed there and under the action of ultrasound, the so-called cavitation effect, the channels are cleaned of contamination.

The second option for cleaning is compressed air.

You can use the compressor available on the farm and clean the carburetor channels. However, this method is effective if the contamination is not very large.

If there is neither an ultrasonic bath nor a compressor at hand, then cleaning can be done in the third way using a special cylinder for cleaning the carburetor. They are sold in almost all car dealerships and supermarkets. The price is not high and is about $ 2-3. Enough of such a cylinder for 4 or 5 purges.

Now we need to blow through the channels in the body and carburetor cover. See photo.

Another particle of dirt can get stuck under the needle. See photo. This will also lead to brushcutter failure.

Important! When cleaning the carburetor, never use needles, pins or wires. Even the slightest scratch will damage the carburetor. It will have to be changed entirely.

It is located on the carburetor cover and is a fine metal mesh. Its pollution occurs very often. This is due to the deposition of oil, additives, dirt on it.

Sometimes, when disassembling on the nets, a certain film is found. Therefore, the carburetor does not have enough fuel and the brushcutter either does not start or works intermittently. The cleaning methods are identical to the first reason: an ultrasonic bath, a compressor or a spray bottle with a special solution. In addition, if the mesh is clogged thoroughly, you need to take a soft brush for watercolors, soak it in gasoline and rinse it gently without damaging it.

They have the ability to wear out during operation. From prolonged use, they deform, stretch, lose elasticity, low-quality fuel corrodes them, and can no longer perform their functions well. This also applies to the needle itself. The fact is that it is covered with a thin layer of rubber, which wears out during operation and can no longer fit tightly into the hole. The brushcutter starts to work intermittently. To eliminate such a breakdown, it is necessary to replace all worn out parts. Where can I get them?

In specialized gardening equipment stores, a carburetor kit for a brush cutter of a certain model is sold. The cost of such a repair kit ranges from 40 to 60 hryvnia.

It includes two diaphragms, a gasket, a needle valve and a spring.

All wear parts of the carburetor can be replaced. Therefore, you should not rush and buy a new one, and you do not need to run to the workshop either, repairs are within the power of any brushcutter user. Professionals claim that the quality of the components in the repair kit even exceeds the characteristics of the native carburetor parts. Therefore, a well-repaired unit will perform better than a new one.

In addition, the bubble button for manual fuel pumping may fail. The effect of gasoline on it leads to the fact that during prolonged operation, the rubber corrodes and it begins to stick together or, under the influence of low temperatures, for example, during storage, it bursts. The button should also be replaced if necessary. In addition, its cost is small and will not affect the size of the repair budget in any way.

Based on the foregoing, it can be concluded that there are only three main carburetor malfunctions: clogging of channels, contamination of the fine filter and failure of components. In the first two cases, cleaning is enough, and in the third, a repair kit will help.

Assembling a brushcutter carburetor is a snap. All actions must be performed in reverse order:

Install a spring and a needle valve in the carburetor cover. Hold the spring with your finger and tighten the mounting bolt.

Screw the shutter of the air supply system to the product body with two screws.

Turn the carburetor over and go to the fuel system assembly. First you need to put the gasket.

Install the carburetor cover.

Install the main diaphragm.

Install the plate with the manual fuel pumping button and tighten the four screws.

The carburetor is assembled and ready for further use.

For the first time, repairing a brushcutter carburetor may seem like a complicated process, but if you have to disassemble it a second time, then this procedure will not cause much difficulty.

If you did not find any of the listed problems in your carburetor, it is recommended to contact a specialized service for help.

An electric scythe or a trimmer, like any electric tool, has a limited service life. With an increase in the intensity of operation, for various reasons, the life of the device decreases.

You should be prepared that at any time during operation, the electric scythe can break, but such situations can be avoided if you regularly disassemble, inspect and revise all important elements of the scythe.

Malfunctions of electric scythes can be very diverse, it can be either a breakdown in the electrical part of the engine and wiring, as well as in the mechanical part.

In most cases, it is not difficult to repair a trimmer or scythe and you can do it yourself if there is a minimum tool and basic concepts in technology. Well, for the readers of the site elektt.blogspot.com, I will reveal the main faults and secrets for quick and reliable repair of your electric scythe, consider an example of repairing Bosch and Gardener electric scythes.

The design of most electric braids is not a complex device, the main components, be it a trimmer or braid, are an electric motor, a power wire, a button with a capacitor, a spool with a line that is fixed to the motor shaft or more complex mechanical options for braids where torque from the engine is transmitted to the spool through flexible shaft, but among electric options for braids, this option is rare.

To identify faults in the electrical part, as a rule, only one inspection is not enough; you need a multimeter or at least a tester with a continuity.
Such malfunctions are characterized, as a rule, by the complete inoperability of the engine, severe overheating or jerky operation.

The check begins with the power cable, if it is damaged, it is either repaired or replaced.
Express check involves checking the voltage of 220 volts at the engine contacts.

The voltage should appear when the button is pressed, if the voltage is present, then we can safely say that the trimmer motor is faulty, it must be disconnected and carefully inspected.
Slight contamination of the collector plates and brushes is normal, but it is still better to clean it with a soft cloth moistened with alcohol; if the brushes are clearly worn out, it is better to replace them.

Using a multimeter in the resistance test mode (the smallest limit is Ohms), touch the contacts of the brushes or the graphite brushes themselves with the probes, the tester should show a resistance of no more than 100 Ohms.

If the resistance is infinite (unit on a multimeter), then try to turn the motor shaft without removing the probes.
In a working electric motor, the resistance wakes up about 10 - 40 Ohm, if the brushes do not ring, then there is no contact or the integrity of the stator windings is broken, possibly a break or burnout.
When the resistance is less than 5 ohms, there is an interspeed short circuit, most likely caused by a strong overheating of the engine.

The following procedure can be used to identify the specific cause of a motor malfunction when the motor brushes are not ringing.
The graphite brushes must be pulled out by first pushing out the brass inserts or removing the hold-down springs.

The collector motors in these devices are arranged in such a way that the stator and rotor windings are connected in series, and in expensive models of electric motors a thermal relay is also connected to this serial circuit (110 degrees), such a relay in normal conditions keeps the power contact closed.
A separate diagnostic method is to check the resistance on the collector drum plates.

To identify the culprit of the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the insulation in the form of cambric from the fluoroplastic where the windings and the thermal relay are connected and ring each winding separately with a multimeter, as well as the thermal relay itself.

The most loaded mechanical elements of electric scythes are bearings and a trimer reel (spool).
In most cases, the device stops mowing due to the failure of its line spool.

The line has run out. According to the instructions provided, you should wind the fishing line on a spool.

The line is tangled. If the reel has not received damage, then you need to cut or unwind the line and, if necessary, rewind the entire spool.

The line is stuck together. Due to the rather intense work and high overheating, the plastic lines of the fishing line can fuse with each other. It is necessary to rewind the spool with new line and inspect the damage to the bobbin itself.

The motor runs but the line spool does not rotate. Most likely, there was damage to the structure of the reel with line. The spool bottom attachment points can break off, you need to completely disassemble the bobbin and, if necessary, modify the mount or replace it altogether. In most electric trimmers, the bobbin is simply pressed by its plastic housing onto the motor shaft and, if overheated, when the plastic melts, it can turn and fly off altogether.

Both devices showed no signs of life, in the on state the engines did not work.

The case for both devices consists of two halves, the self-tapping screws are on one side, which is convenient for disassembly.
After all the screws are unscrewed, the upper case is separated from the lower one by gently pressing it into the slot with a flat screwdriver to open the interlocked plastic locks.

After disassembling, we proceed to inspect the insides and troubleshoot.

During the inspection, it was found on the engine trimmer Bosch, on one of the brushes, which is fixed by a pressure spring, a copper conductive wire flew off, which naturally was the reason for the absence of voltage on the brushes and the motor did not rotate.

The wire was restored to its place, and along the way the collector pads were cleaned, with a soft cloth soaked in alcohol, to a copper shine. The brushes were in good condition and did not need replacement.

It was also found that the switch does not create a reliable electrical contact, it was necessary to clamp the button with effort, it was decided to disassemble the button, its contacts were cleaned of carbon deposits and lubricated with KONTAKT S-61 current protective spray.

WITH electric scythe GARDENER it was not so simple, she lay for quite a long time in a broken state, and in the literal sense of the word “broken”, her rod at the engine casing was broken in half, apparently so difficult were the conditions of her operation.

With the help of perforated plates from the metal profile mountings, a new mount of the engine body to the electric braid bar was not cleverly made. The integrity of the structure has been restored, albeit not in aesthetic, but in a reliable way, because in an electric brace, its main function is its functionality.

The engine shaft was turning noticeably hard; an internal examination revealed burnt collector plates and worn brushes. The plates were sanded to a shine and the brushes were replaced with new ones.

In view of the long operation without lubrication and subsequent storage of the device in an aggressive environment, the bearings are a little stuck and the motor shaft rotates unnaturally with difficulty.
The engine bearings were washed with WD-40 spray followed by lubrication. As a result, the engine began to rotate noticeably better, but still the bearings were already “broken” and when the engine was running on mains, the sound of its operation was not so smooth and monotonous.

Further inspection of the electrical part led to the button, it was completely broken from its mountings, although it was pressed, but the tester showed its malfunction. The button is not collapsible, so it was replaced with a new one. The fasteners had to be restored with hot melt glue.

In addition to the broken bar, there was a crack on the plastic protection, apparently someone did not drop it weakly. The scythe could work with it, but it was decided, as far as possible, to restore the protection structure.

Naturally, simply gluing such a loaded and impact-prone object with glue would not be a reliable solution. Therefore, using the same perforated plates from the metal profile, two brackets were made that created a “monolithic” connection between the two parts of the cracked body.
The plates were connected to the body with aluminum rivets.

When the brushcutter was assembled, it was found that the bar at the points of attachment of the handle was poorly fixed and rotated, therefore, the places where the plastic protrusions of the handle body were pressed against the metal of the bar were additionally sealed with a strip of cloth tape. Now the design has no extra backlash.

The spool (spool) runs out of line. In most spools, the net feed is semi-automatic, with a light hit of the spring-loaded button on the ground, the line is fed to the exit. If the line does not feed, then you need to remove and disassemble the spool - spool and, if necessary, wind new line.

The line may be too long due to the fact that the blade, which is designed for cutting excess line along the length, is dull or it does not exist at all.
The length of the line should be slightly less than the diameter of the protection.

A large hum and vibration during engine operation may indicate that the bearings need lubrication or they have completely used up their resource.
Also, the body of the reel with the line (spool) may be cracked, and its attachment point must be inspected for cracks and damage.

Most of the electric motors in the scythes and trimmers are collector-type and do not have a speed controller, with a decrease in the voltage in the network, the speed and power decrease.
The line spool may not be wound correctly.
Perhaps the turns are hampered by the presence of a stuck twig or a rope is wound around the shaft, you should inspect the structure. In a working spit, the shaft should turn easily and without the slightest effort, even after it has been dispersed with a finger.

Does the engine not turn? We look at the presence of power on the plug, if everything is in order, then the device needs to be disassembled.
If no obvious damage is noticeable, then a sequential continuity of the electrical circuits of the device begins.

Using a multimeter (tester), first ring out the power cord, the fuse, if there is one, and the button.
If the button does not ring in the on state, then it should be replaced or if it is collapsible, then open and clean the burnt contacts.

The cord may be broken, in which case the engine may intermittently start.
An engine malfunction may be the fact that when the button is turned on, there is a voltage of 220 volts on the engine contacts, but it does not rotate.

Some electric motors are equipped with a thermal fuse that is built into the motor housing and tripped from overheating or simply failed. A working thermal fuse must restore its operation when the engine cools down.

The use of various electrical devices greatly simplifies the performance of many types of work, but unfortunately, all complex products break down sooner or later. Failure of the electric trimmer

will lead not only to the inability to carry out work in the garden, but also to significant financial waste on repairs. It is possible to significantly save money and increase your own knowledge of the device of this technique if you do the trimmer repair yourself. Before proceeding with this type of work, you should carefully study the principle of operation of this type of household appliances.

The electric trimmer consists of:

• Enclosures with an electric motor.
• Detachable rod.
• Trimmer reel with protective cover.
• Shoulder strap rivets.

Electric trimmer device

A power cable with a plug is connected to the trimmer body, through which electric current is transmitted. In the cavity of the split rod there is a flexible shaft, thanks to which the torque is transmitted to the trimmer coil. The device is turned on by pressing the button located on the handle of the device.

This trimmer design is the most common, but

if desired, you can find products that operate on a battery, as well as with a lower location of an electric motor.

The trimmer can be damaged when working under increased stress. This situation can arise when the cultivated area is overgrown with tall grass.

When working in such areas, the engine may fail, the bearings may break, and the coil of the electric scythe will collapse. When operating in rainy or very foggy conditions, the trimmer may “burn out” as a result of a short circuit.

Damage to this electrical appliance can also occur as a result of frequent use. If the household appliance is used in this mode, then after operating a certain number of operating hours, it will be necessary to carry out mandatory repairs and preventive adjustment of many parts of the electrical appliance.

If the electric scythe does not show signs of life, then there may be a break in the electric cable inside the handle of the case, or the button for turning on the electric motor is faulty.

In order to diagnose an electrician, you will need to disassemble the handle of the electrical appliance. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• The control handle is removed from the electric scythe frame.
• The handle is disassembled.

When access to the inside of the electric trimmer is provided, the resistance of the electric trimmer button is measured using a multimeter. If there is no resistance after pressing, then this

the part is subject to mandatory replacement. It is also necessary to check the connection points of the power cable with the internal electrics located in the handle.

device. The contacts should be checked for open circuit with a multimeter. Often, such a malfunction can be determined "by eye". After detecting an open contact, it is enough to solder the damaged area to restore the operation of the electric trimmer.

In the absence of a multimeter, diagnostic work can be performed with an indicator screwdriver. For this purpose, connect the plug to the mains and using this diagnostic tool

find the "phase wire" and thus check the presence of electric current before and after the power button.If the phase current is detected in another electrical circuit, then it is enough to install the electrical plug on the contrary in the socket, so that the correct diagnosis can be carried out.

trimmer malfunction. The second diagnostic option should be done with great care, since there is a danger of electric shock when checking the integrity of the wiring.

If the power button of the device and the sections of the internal wiring are intact, then you should start checking the electric motor. For this purpose, it is necessary to remove the housing cover, having previously unscrewed several screws with a screwdriver.

The first thing to do after accessing the electric motor is to check that the brush assembly is working properly. If the brushes are worn out above the maximum permissible value, then the electric motor may stop completely or work unstable. In the case when the brushes and the collector are in perfect order, you should start “ringing” the motor winding. In order to eliminate the likelihood of breakage in both circuits, you should alternately carry out

checking the stator and rotor of the motor. To perform this operation, you must:

• Remove the engine from the electric scythe.
• Switch on the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and check all collector plates for breakage. When checking, there should also be no significant deviations in the readings of the diagnostic tool.
• Check for breakdown of the rotor winding to ground. For this purpose, connect one probe of the multimeter to the rotor “ground”, and the other to any collector plate. The multimeter must be set to measure resistance over 1 MΩ. The resistance of a working motor between the winding and “ground” should be very high.
• Measure the resistance value of the stator winding. If there is no resistance, then we can state in this case its malfunction.
• If the stator wiring is in perfect order, then a check is made for a possible breakdown on the case, in the same way as when diagnosing the stator.

When checking in this way, it is possible in 90% of cases to establish the cause of the malfunction of the electric motor. To check for an inter-turn circuit, which can manifest itself only during the operation of the engine, thus it will not work, but such a malfunction can be diagnosed

by indirect signs, which are manifested in a decrease in the power of the electric motor and its overheating. If the electric motor is equipped with a thermal relay, then such an electric scythe, with an interturn closure, will work for a short time, after which the trimmer will automatically turn off. In some cases, the thermal relay can cause a malfunction of the trimmer motor, therefore, in a set of test

measures should be included "ringing" of the thermal relay using a multimeter or tester.

It is very simple to do this: in good condition, on a cold engine, the thermal relay passes an electric current,

In a malfunctioning state, the electrical circuit will be open.

Problems with the performance of electric scythes associated with wire breaks can be easily eliminated by soldering the contacts, but if the motor is "burned out", then you will need to perform a complex rewinding process, which can

carried out by a qualified technician only. In many cases, it is much easier and cheaper to purchase a new engine and install it in place of the burned out one. This work can be done independently

in the reverse order of removal of the unit.

If the trimmer electrician is in good working order, then you should pay attention to other types of malfunctions that may appear during the operation of the electric trimmer.

If the electric motor of the device turns on, but the reel with the line does not rotate, the causes of such a malfunction may be a break in the flexible shaft transmitting torque.This problem is especially often manifested with improper care of the electrical appliance. For example, in the absence of lubrication inside the rod of the electric cable, the cable will be exposed to excessive friction and within a short time this part will fail. For replacement, it is enough to disconnect the upper part of the electric braid, in which the electric motor is located, after which it will be possible to remove the flexible shaft from the rod.

If there are difficulties with the removal of the second part of the cable remaining in the cavity, the lower part of the spit is disconnected with the bobbin and shaft. The assembly of the mechanism is carried out in the reverse order.

Bottom trimmer

The flexible shaft must be thoroughly lubricated with grease prior to installation to reduce the chance of repeated failure of this part.

Electric scythe shaft bearing

Flexible shaft rupture can only occur on top-engine electric trimmer models.

Electric scythes with a lower engine location do not have a flexible shaft, but malfunctions of such devices can manifest themselves in the form of destruction of the bearing of the main shaft of the electric scythes on which the bobbin with fishing line is installed.

To fix such a malfunction is very simple, it is enough to replace the failed bearing with a new part.

With frequent use and improper care of the electric scythe, the listed malfunctions can appear with enviable regularity. To minimize the likelihood of breakage, it is enough not to overload the device, lubricate rubbing parts in time and do not work in high humidity. Despite some restrictions when working with this device with an electric trimmer, unlike petrol trimmers, there can be no malfunctions in the ignition unit. And such a malfunction as: "the trimmer motor immediately stalls", in principle, can not be. The motor of the electrical device cannot stall because it does not need to be started. To start, just press the power button, so many summer residents choose electric trimmers to care for the surrounding area.