In detail: do-it-yourself repair of EUR on a grant from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The installation of the EUR on the Granta Standard is a frequent reason for the owners of these cars to contact the car service. However, with the proper skill, you can easily do it yourself. How to install such a system, if you have a Lada Granta and whether it is worth doing it at all - read the article.
Driving without power steering is, of course, possible. However, if you have previously driven a car equipped with such a system, you may experience serious discomfort. You will be deprived of the usual electric motor support.
Installing such a mechanism is difficult and costly. But they will all pay off with a comfortable ride and increased safety for you and your passengers.
Thus, the answer to the question "Is it worth installing?" - this is an unequivocal "Yes". Even if you don't want to do it yourself, contact a car service.
In the video below you will find a comparison of the advantages of power steering and EUR (the author of the video is AUTOTEMA TV).
VIDEO
It so happens that after installation, the EUR does not work at all or intermittently.
This can be caused by various reasons, among which two most often stand out:
Breakage of the speed sensor. The electric power steering is working in connection with the speed sensor. At high speeds, the extra force from the mechanism is reduced to give you more control. If data from the sensor ceases to flow, the EUR will automatically turn off. The problem is solved by replacing the sensor.
Incorrectly installed crankcase. In case of violations in the installation of the crankcase (casing) of the engine, vibrations from the motor will be transmitted to the amplifier. He will begin to hum, in some cases even turn off.
Video (click to play).
This manual is intended for those who have minimal experience with vehicle tools and systems. It is made as accessible as possible for everyone. But if you doubt your skills and knowledge, it is better to contact a car service.
First of all, you need the EUR itself. Pay attention to its serial number. The last two digits indicate the type and place of production.
So, 00 is a gearbox amplifier, produced in Makhachkala and has complaints from the drivers. With the numbers 04 - Korean, put on Grants and Kalina, a good amplifier, you can find it in stores, but it is not enough on the ruins. Well, 02 - Kaluga, gearless type, also good reviews.
To connect, you need such ordinary tools as screwdrivers, wrenches, a grinder.
First, you will need to completely remove items such as the pillow, steering wheel, switches, ignition switch, and at the end of the steering column along with the bracket and cardan.
Then do everything as follows:
Taking the old bracket-plate, knock out the bolts from it. Then cut about 30 mm from the top (where 2 bolts are welded and there are 3 holes).
Try on the plate for the EUR, if the holes do not match (most likely they will), drill them.
Now you need to attach the gimbal to the amplifier.
Washers should be placed under the bracket at the point of attachment to the amplifier. They come in a variety of thicknesses and have a direct impact on future steering adjustments.
Now you can fix the EUR. Insert the cardan on the rail.
After all this, you need to connect the wiring. Below is the connection diagram.
Wiring diagram
As mentioned above, washers play a role in how much the steering column will deflect up and down. They are installed between the bracket and the amplifier. The amount of deflection of the steering column depends on their thickness.
This video tells about the pros and cons of such a system, and also demonstrates in detail the installation process (the author of the video is sokur64).
VIDEO
For the first time, the Russian car industry has installed an electric power steering on Kalina. At the first stages, it worked extremely unstable, up to a complete shutdown. Later, they tried to eliminate the shortcomings, but the EUR remained a weak link and periodically fails, as evidenced by the exclamation mark on the panel. This is evidenced by the feeling of a heavy steering wheel, and it becomes difficult to turn with one hand.
The principle of operation of the electric booster is to reduce the force that needs to be applied when turning the steering wheel. The Kalina electric power steering control unit uses sensors to calculate the operation of the electric motor at the current speed and torque. Thus, giving a signal about the effort with which you need to help the driver when cornering. After all, it does not work constantly and needs to be adjusted by the block.
The main reason lies in the electric power steering. When the system is ignited, a self-diagnosis of the system occurs and if the mechanism does not pass it, a signal is turned on, signaling a malfunction. The color of the signal indicates the degree of danger. The red light is on, an urgent need to fix the problem. If the color is yellow, the operation of the vehicle is possible, but it is worth taking safety measures. There may be several reasons why the electric power steering on Kalina does not work:
malfunction of the speed sensor;
malfunction of the torque sensor;
speed exceeds 60 km / h;
the engine speed is less than 400 per minute;
failure in the control unit;
poorly soldered contacts;
insufficient voltage.
The electric power steering on Kalina turns off after 60 km / h. Therefore, consider this point, it is set in the system unit and is not a breakdown. Electric power steering "Priora" is disabled at a speed of 110 km / h.
Also, the EUR does not work at low engine speeds. If the value is less than 400 rpm, it is inactive.
This is programmatically scheduled inactivity. It is needed to give information to the steering wheel at high speed and reduce the wear of the mechanism.
In the case when it is impossible to immediately check the cause of the failure of the electric power steering on Kalina, it is necessary to remove the fuse from the block. This is necessary to prevent a sudden activation of the mechanism, which leads to emergency situations.
A direct indicator of a malfunction of the speed sensor in the electric power steering of Kalina is an inoperative speedometer, as well as an illuminated exclamation mark on the dashboard. It may not work for several reasons. Check the appearance of the sensor, if it gets covered with dirt, just clean it. See if the metal shavings are magnetized and remove them as well.
If this does not help, then the sensor is probably out of order. These sensors are now inexpensive and can be found in many auto parts stores. We do the same for the torque sensor. But where is the speed sensor? It is usually found in the gearbox housing, see the photo on the left.
Another reason for the malfunction of the Kalina electric power steering is the generator. To operate the control unit, you need a voltage of 13.6 V, if you have less, change the voltage regulator (chocolate bar) on it.
Also, the contacts could simply be disconnected due to poor-quality soldering. You can either disassemble and solder the contacts or send them to the service.
If the matter is in the control unit, it is difficult to solve this problem on your own, it will either be soldered in the service, or you will have to buy a new one.
In order not to guess about the cause of the malfunction of the electric power steering, you can connect to the diagnostic port. There are two options, either buy a scanner with a monitor, or connect to a laptop via a cable, after downloading the software to the device.
The second option is cheaper and preferable, as it gives complete information about your car. The error codes can be found on the internet.
The weak link of the electric power steering on Kalina is the fuse box, if something does not work, it is worth checking them. To get to them, you need to open the dashboard to the left of the steering wheel. To do this, pull the upper part towards you and the latch will open.
Check if the fuse works, if it fails, replace it. It is very simple to check, see the integrity of the thread inside the fuse. Changing the 50 amp relay to 30 amp will also help.
In newer versions of Kalina, electric amplifiers from Hyundai are installed, which has a positive effect on its reliability. However, there are thousands of cars left with the domestic version, which malfunctions and breaks down from time to time. Now it will be easier for you to repair the electric power steering on Kalina with your own hands. The main thing to remember is that not every disconnection of the amplifier is a breakdown. And you can find the problem yourself and fix it, but somewhere you have to go to the service.
Lada Kalina, Granta and Priora cars can be equipped with electric power steering (EUR) from various manufacturers (for example, Kaluga or Makhachkala). In the event of malfunctions in its operation (failed, does not work, turns off, etc.), diagnostics should be performed using a special scanner. It is also possible to determine the causes of failures without special equipment "using the paper clip" method.
It is necessary to remove the plastic cover of the steering column (unscrew the fastening screws from the bottom) and get to the 8-pin black connector.
It has the following pinout :
Blue (ignition lock + 12V);
Brown-red (tachometer);
Gray (vehicle speed);
Pink-white (EMUR control lamp);
Yellow-black (K-Line);
Empty (L-line, wire not connected)
Brown (mass)
Empty.
To execute EUR diagnostics without a scanner necessary:
Switch off the ignition;
Close contacts # 6 and # 7 of this connector using a piece of wire or a paper clip (the connector is not removed);
Switch on the ignition;
Determine the DTC by flashing the electric power steering malfunction indicator lamp in the instrument cluster.
Determination of the EUR malfunction code by a blinking lamp:
initial pause duration - 2 sec;
long signal duration - 2 sec;
duration of a short signal - 0.5 sec;
pause duration between signals - 0.5 sec;
pause duration between codes - 2 sec
VIDEO
Electric power steering error codes:
11 - System is OK 12 - Lack of engine speed signal 13 - Faulty torque sensor 14 - Malfunction of the EMUR engine 15 - Malfunction of the steering shaft position sensor 16 - Malfunction of the EMUR engine rotor position sensor 17 - Malfunction of the car wiring system (below 10V or more than 18V) 18 - Malfunction of the EMUR control unit 19 - Malfunction of the vehicle speed sensor
ERD fault codes when diagnosed with a special scanner:
Recall that earlier we talked about how to eliminate the knock in the electric power steering of Lada cars.
The electric power steering is a unit used to provide more comfortable driving. Not so long ago, domestic-made cars began to be equipped with EUR, in particular, in this article we will talk about Ladakh Kalina. What malfunctions of the EUR Kalina can happen and what are the ways of troubleshooting? Look for answers to these and other questions below.
Why does the electric power steering on Lada Kalina not work or turn off, for what reasons does the steering wheel with the EUR knocks, wedges and bites? To repair the system with your own hands, you need to know how diagnostics are carried out and what reasons precede the breakdown. Most often, the failure of the amplifier is due to the breakdown of the unit itself.Malfunctions of such a plan are eliminated by thoroughly checking the system to identify the exact problem.
As practice shows, often the inoperability of the electric booster is associated with a breakdown of the speed controller, since this sensor provides activation and deactivation of the EUR in different driving modes. The amplifier on Kalina works if the car is moving at low speed. When the speed starts to increase, the amplifier is automatically turned off, which allows for safer control of the machine when driving at high revs.
So, briefly about the reasons for the inoperability of the EUR:
The speed controller is out of order or the control unit does not receive a signal from it. In this case, the reason may lie both in the breakdown of the sensor, and in damage to the wiring or poor contact of the controller with the on-board network.
The voltage in the vehicle's electrical system has dropped. The reasons can be different, ranging from a dead battery and an inoperative generator and ending with the use of inappropriate electrical equipment in the car.
The permissible number of revolutions of the crankshaft has been exceeded.
Incorrect operation or failure of the control module. Depending on the reason, the control unit may need to be repaired; more detailed diagnostics must be done.
To check the amplifier in a car, you need to dismantle the plastic trim on the steering column, for this, unscrew the bolts securing it from below.
Then you will need to get to the 8-pin plug, its pinout is as follows:
the blue contact is connected to the ignition switch, this is a 12 volt power supply;
the red-brown contact is the tachometer connection cable;
the gray contact goes to the auto speed controller;
white-pink wire - amplifier control indicator;
black and yellow contact is a diagnostic line;
the next contact is empty, the wire is not connected to it;
brown contact is mass;
empty.
More accurate results will be obtained by checking the amplifier using a scanner. But since such equipment can usually only be found at a service station, you can try to check the operation of the system with a paper clip.
To check, you need to do the following:
The ignition is switched off first.
Then, using a paper clip, it is necessary to close the contacts numbered 6 and 7 of this plug, while the plug itself does not need to be dismantled.
Next, the ignition must be turned on.
After completing these steps, the EUR breakdown indicator located in the dashboard will start blinking, by the number of blinks, you can determine the system breakdown (video author - Gosha Vakhromeev).
one long and one short signal - the electric amplifier is in good order;
one long and two short - no engine speed signal;
one long and three short - out of order or no power supply to the torque controller;
one long and four short flashes - problems in the operation of the EUR electric motor;
one long and five short - the steering shaft position controller is out of order;
one long and six short - the motor rotor position controller is out of order;
one long and seven short - power supply problems - the voltage is either too high or very low;
one long and eight short - the control module of the electric amplifier is out of order;
one long and nine short - breakdown of the speed controller.
Before removing the amplifier, you need to dismantle all the steering column switches. Remove the steering rack pad and dismantle the devices, remembering to disconnect the connectors from the power supply.
How to remove the EUR with your own hands:
The appearance of a knock in the work of the EUR is associated with the need to tighten the steering rack.
How to do it right:
How and with what to lubricate the amplifier?
Litol can be used as a lubricant, the procedure is as follows:
First you need to remove the plastic casing, for this unscrew the bolts that secure it.Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew. It is also advisable to dismantle the dashboard lower cross member located under the steering wheel.
Next, unscrew the two bolts that fix the amplifier itself, for this you need a 13 spanner. After that, the column can be released downward.
Unscrew another bolt, after which you can do the lubrication directly.
First, the steering wheel is turned to the left as far as it will go. The lubricant is poured into a 10 cc syringe and sprayed into the resulting hole. You need to throw out all 10 cubes.
Then the steering wheel turns to the right until it stops - the syringe is again directed into the hole, all the lubricant is sprayed out.
After that, the steering wheel should be turned to the middle position and again sprayed with grease into the hole.
Further, the steering wheel must be turned in different directions until it stops several times. The lubrication operation is repeated one more time.
Then all the components are assembled in reverse order.
How to properly repair the electric power steering on a Lada Kalina car and what mistakes cannot be made in this case - detailed instructions are given in the video (video by CompsMaster).
Electric power steering Kalina greatly simplifies the movement of the car and makes it enjoyable to operate. Lada Kalina not so long ago appeared on the modern car market, but has already become widely known and gained immense popularity among the population. This fact is due to the practicality of this machine and its convenience. In addition, the cost of such a brand favorably distinguishes it from the background of other cars. This effect was achieved due to the presence of many additional parts included in the design of the machine, which not only simplify the use of the machine, but also make this process more comfortable.
The electric power steering on Kalina is a special device that is connected to the steering wheel systems and ensures its smooth and soft operation. This solution allows you to rotate the steering wheel without much effort. The very design of the EUR is quite simple and consists of only a few parts:
electric motor;
reducer;
Control block;
torque sensor;
speed sensor;
crankshaft speed sensor.
EUR is a fairly simple system. But even such a design of it allows the device to receive all the necessary information to ensure the movement of the machine. The control over the operation of the device is carried out directly by the on-board computer, which is included in the factory configuration of Lada Kalina. The electric power steering turns on when the speed is 400 rpm, and turns off when it exceeds 60 km / h. Such frames provide the best performance and allow you to drive the car in the most difficult period. In addition, such indicators are determined by the manufacturer based on safety considerations, since the operation of the ESD at high speeds is associated with a certain risk.
VIDEO
As mentioned above, connecting the device makes the steering wheel extremely sensitive, which can be a big problem at high speeds. That is why when 60 km / h is exceeded, the amplifier is turned off by the system, making it more static and safe.
The design of the EUR is quite simple, which makes it quite easy to repair. But its location was not chosen by the manufacturer very well. The electric amplifier module is fixed directly under the stove radiator. Therefore, during the operation of the device, especially in winter, it is periodically exposed to temperature effects. Which is one of the reasons for its failure. Unfortunately, such a development of events is observed quite often. Failure in the operation of the EUR is associated with the emergence of some difficulties in driving and the appearance of certain malfunctions.In most cases, the following factors are responsible for malfunctions:
lack of speed sensor signal;
low voltage in the power supply network of the car;
the maximum value of the system revolutions has been exceeded;
the control unit is defective.
All these factors lead to the failure of the device. Diagnostics of a similar condition is carried out by the car independently as a result of starting the system and turning on the on-board computer, which checks the health of all systems. In the absence of a signal from any element, the computer automatically considers it to be faulty, which displays the appropriate information on the dashboard. If the electric power steering does not work, then a special orange light in the shape of a steering wheel with an exclamation mark lights up on the screen. The manufacturer's instruction states that the failure of the EUR provides for urgent repair. For this, the driver must move at low speed to the service station to carry out the appropriate action. In practice, the situation is slightly different.
In most cases, an illuminated dashboard light does not at all imply a repair. It shows the presence of any malfunction in the EUR assemblies. This can be either a malfunction in the power circuits, which implies a device connection diagram, or the failure of one of the sensors. At the same time, this fact has absolutely no effect on the control over the control of the car. The real problem is problems that affect the sensitivity of the steering wheel and prevent it from working properly. These problems arise quite often and require an immediate response, since ignoring them can lead to dire consequences. To quickly neutralize such a problem, remove the fuse, which is located on the left side of the steering wheel. This step will allow you to get to the repair site without interference, although driving will become a little more difficult.
A defective EUR will not affect the steering wheel and interfere with the control of the machine.
Replacing the electric power steering should be carried out only by experienced craftsmen, and if the warranty period for Lada Kalina has not yet expired, then the best solution would be to contact the dealer network to solve the problem. If the warranty has expired, and it is difficult to collect additional funds for a qualified repair of the device, then the way out of this situation is to install an electric power steering with your own hands. It should be borne in mind that this procedure is rather complicated. Therefore, without some preparation and the availability of technical skills, it is not worth it. Unqualified actions can result not only in a complete system failure, but also in more complex and expensive repairs. Therefore, the installation of the EUR should be done only after studying all the details and features of the car networks. In such a situation, the device connection diagram will become an indispensable assistant and will allow you to perform the necessary actions more clearly.
VIDEO
To remove a faulty electric booster, it is necessary to partially disassemble the panel located under the steering wheel and disconnect all wires going to the device. The installation of a new electric power steering may not be necessary, since there is a fairly high probability that after some preventive measures are taken, the old device will work no worse than the new one. One of the most common problems of this type is a knock on the power steering, accompanied by a squeak when the wheel itself is turned. In such a situation, the EUR lubricant can solve the problem. If this step did not help, then the device requires more detailed diagnostics or a complete replacement.
The installation of the EUR requires some care.All wires must be connected, the device itself is installed in its proper place, and the steering column is assembled back.
Diagnostics of the electric power steering Lada without a scanner
Auto Lada Kalina, Granta and Priora can be equipped with electric power steering (EUR) from different manufacturers (for example, Kaluga or Makhachkala). If defects appear in its operation (failed, does not work, turns off, etc.), diagnostics should be performed using a special scanner. It is also possible to find prerequisites for failures and without special equipment using the paper clip method.
It is necessary to remove the plastic cover of the control column (unscrew the fastening screws from the bottom) and get to the 8-pin dark connector.
It has a follow-up pinout :
Blue (ignition switch 12v);
Brown-red (tachometer);
Gray (vehicle speed);
Pink-white (EMUR control lamp);
Yellow-black (K-Line);
Empty (L-line, wire not connected)
Brown (mass)
Empty.
To execute EUR diagnostics without a scanner necessary:
Switch off the ignition;
Close contacts # 6 and # 7 of this connector using a piece of wire or a paper clip (the connector is not removed);
Switch on the ignition;
Determine the DTC by flashing the electric power steering malfunction indicator lamp in the instrument cluster.
Determination of the EUR malfunction code by a blinking lamp:
the duration of the initial pause is 2 seconds;
the duration of the long signal is 2 sec;
the duration of the short signal is 0.5 sec;
pause duration between signals 0.5 sec;
pause duration between codes 2 sec
Electric power steering error codes:
12 No engine speed signal
VIDEO
Assembly / disassembly / soldering took 3 hours. Cash costs 0 rubles. In the video you can see that I forgot to eat.
VIDEO
The electric power steering reduces the effort on the steering wheel, making it easier to drive. The basis of the electric booster is a brushless electric motor with a gearbox located under the steering cover. A worm is installed on the engine shaft, which engages with a plastic gear attached to the steering shaft. The operation of the electric booster is coordinated by the electronic control unit by changing the voltage supplied to the electric motor according to information received from the vehicle speed sensors, the crankshaft speed and the amount of torque on the steering shaft. The electric motor, through the gearbox, turns the steering column shaft with a certain torque.
The control unit provides sufficient information content of the steering wheel in all modes of vehicle movement. When the car is stationary, the torque generated by the electric booster on the shaft is maximum, as the speed of the car increases, the "assistance" of the booster decreases and the steering wheel becomes "heavier". In the event of a failure of the electric booster, the car fully retains controllability, while the steering wheel becomes somewhat "heavier" than in a car without an electric booster. since an additional load appears in the form of a freely rotating rotor of the electric motor
The instrument cluster contains a malfunction indicator for the electric power steering. It lights up when the ignition is turned on and goes out after starting the engine. If the electric amplifier fails, the indicator lights up constantly. The electric booster does not work when the engine is not running.
The electric amplifier can be turned off:
- with a decrease in the voltage of the on-board network;
- in the absence of a signal from the speed sensor and engine speed above 1500 min 1
Such shutdowns are incorporated in the algorithm of the electric amplifier and are not signs of a malfunction.
You will need: a Phillips screwdriver, keys "8", "13" (two), a socket wrench "13".
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
3. Pull towards you and remove the fuse box cover.
The installation of the EUR on the Granta Standard is a frequent reason for the owners of these cars to contact the car service. However, with the proper skill, you can easily do it yourself. How to install such a system, if you have a Lada Granta and whether it is worth doing it at all - read the article.
Is it worth installing an electric power steering
Driving without power steering is, of course, possible. However, if you have previously driven a car equipped with such a system, you may experience serious discomfort. You will be deprived of the usual electric motor support.
Installing such a mechanism is difficult and costly. But they will all pay off with a comfortable ride and increased safety for you and your passengers.
Thus, the answer to the question "Is it worth installing?" - this is an unequivocal "Yes". Even if you don't want to do it yourself, contact a car service.
In the video below you will find a comparison of the advantages of power steering and EUR (the author of the video is AUTOTEMA TV).
It so happens that after installation, the EUR does not work at all or intermittently.
This can be caused by various reasons, among which two most often stand out:
Breakage of the speed sensor. The electric power steering is working in connection with the speed sensor. At high speeds, the extra force from the mechanism is reduced to give you more control. If data from the sensor ceases to flow, the EUR will automatically turn off. The problem is solved by replacing the sensor.
Incorrectly installed crankcase. In case of violations in the installation of the crankcase (casing) of the engine, vibrations from the motor will be transmitted to the amplifier. He will begin to hum, in some cases even turn off.
This manual is intended for those who have minimal experience with vehicle tools and systems. It is made as accessible as possible for everyone. But if you doubt your skills and knowledge, it is better to contact a car service.
First of all, you need the EUR itself. Pay attention to its serial number. The last two digits indicate the type and place of production.
So, 00 is a gearbox amplifier, produced in Makhachkala and has complaints from the drivers. With the numbers 04 - Korean, put on Grants and Kalina, a good amplifier, you can find it in stores, but it is not enough on the ruins. Well, 02 - Kaluga, gearless type, also good reviews.
To connect, you need such ordinary tools as screwdrivers, wrenches, a grinder.
First, you will need to completely remove items such as the pillow, steering wheel, switches, ignition switch, and at the end of the steering column along with the bracket and cardan.
Then do everything as follows:
Taking the old bracket-plate, knock out the bolts from it. Then cut about 30 mm from the top (where 2 bolts are welded and there are 3 holes).
Try on the plate for the EUR, if the holes do not match (most likely they will), drill them.
Now you need to attach the gimbal to the amplifier.
Washers should be placed under the bracket at the point of attachment to the amplifier. They come in a variety of thicknesses and have a direct impact on future steering adjustments.
Now you can fix the EUR. Insert the cardan on the rail.
After all this, you need to connect the wiring. Below is the connection diagram.
As mentioned above, washers play a role in how much the steering column will deflect up and down. They are installed between the bracket and the amplifier. The amount of deflection of the steering column depends on their thickness.
VIDEO
This video tells about the pros and cons of such a system, and also demonstrates in detail the installation process (the author of the video is sokur64).
The electric power steering reduces the effort on the steering wheel, making it easier to drive. The basis of the electric booster is a brushless electric motor with a gearbox located under the steering cover.A worm is installed on the engine shaft, which engages with a plastic gear attached to the steering shaft. The operation of the electric booster is coordinated by the electronic control unit by changing the voltage supplied to the electric motor according to information received from the vehicle speed sensors, the crankshaft speed and the amount of torque on the steering shaft. The electric motor, through the gearbox, turns the steering column shaft with a certain torque.
The control unit provides sufficient information content of the steering wheel in all modes of vehicle movement. When the car is stationary, the torque generated by the electric booster on the shaft is maximum, as the speed of the car increases, the "assistance" of the booster decreases and the steering wheel becomes "heavier". In the event of a failure of the electric booster, the car fully retains controllability, while the steering wheel becomes somewhat "heavier" than in a car without an electric booster. since an additional load appears in the form of a freely rotating rotor of the electric motor
The instrument cluster contains a malfunction indicator for the electric power steering. It lights up when the ignition is turned on and goes out after starting the engine. If the electric amplifier fails, the indicator lights up constantly. The electric booster does not work when the engine is not running.
The electric amplifier can be turned off:
- with a decrease in the voltage of the on-board network;
- in the absence of a signal from the speed sensor and engine speed above 1500 min 1
Such shutdowns are incorporated in the algorithm of the electric amplifier and are not signs of a malfunction.
You will need: a Phillips screwdriver, keys "8", "13" (two), a socket wrench "13".
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
3. Pull towards you and remove the fuse box cover.
5. Remove the steering column switches.
Most of today's cars are equipped with a cabin filter. In the basic configuration, such a filter is available for cars of the Lada Granta model. Its task is to filter the air entering the cabin from the outside. With an excessively long operation of one filter, the stove does not work well, the air in the cabin is not cleaned, bacteria and dust particles appear in it.
According to the manufacturer's recommendations replacement of the cabin filter Lada Granta it is worth spending every 5-7 thousand kilometers. However, one of the signals that a premature installation of a new filter is necessary is dust or an unpleasant smell coming from the air ducts.
TORX T20 screwdriver;
crosshead screwdriver;
new Grant filter or Viburnum .
Open the hood to cool the engine.
Install the wipers vertically.
Using a TORX T20 screwdriver, you need to unscrew the frill (it is a plastic trim next to the windshield).
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2 self-tapping screws securing the plastic cover of the cabin filter. The cabin filter is located under this casing.
Take out the frame with the filter, remove the old filter.
Put on the frame from the previous filter on the new filter, put it back in its original place. You can use the cabin filter from Lada Kalina .
The old filter looked like this:
Reassemble in reverse order. If there are no problems in operation, you have succeeded independently replace the cabin filter Lada Granta .
VIDEO
We disassemble the steering mechanism during its repair. We remove the steering gear. Remove the steering gear cover
Remove the steering rod support. We insert the barb into the groove of the crankcase pipe fastening nut.
We unscrew the nut, striking the beard (right-hand thread) ...
Use a screwdriver to wring out the two retainers of the sleeve located inside the pipe ...
Remove the two rubber rings from the bushing (arrows show the bushing retainers).
If it is necessary to replace the nut, open it with pliers to remove the circlip ... ... and remove the retaining ring ... Remove the pipe fastening nut.
We take out the rubber plug from the adjusting nut of the rail stop. With a scraper, remove the jammed metal in the places where the stop adjusting nut is locked.
Unscrew the stop nut with a special “24” wrench with an external octagonal head.
We take out the stop spring. Prying off with a screwdriver ...
… Remove the O-ring.
By hitting the crankcase on a wooden block, we knock out the rail stop. Prying off with a screwdriver ...
… Remove the insert from the stop. A rubber ring is installed in the stop groove.
Remove the rubber ring from the crankcase that seals the hole for the steering gear on the bulkhead.
Remove the boot from the pinion shaft. With a hexagon "6", unscrew the two screws (shown by arrows) ...
Remove the cage with thrust bearing rollers.
Remove the cover O-ring.
We take out the rack from the crankcase.
We press out the pinion shaft by clamping the shaft in a vice with soft metal jaws and pressing the crankcase upwards with a mounting blade.
We take out the gear shaft with the bearing from the crankcase. Pry off with a screwdriver ...
... and remove the bushing retaining ring.
We take out the pinion shaft sleeve assembly with a base plate.
If it is necessary to replace the needle bearing with a drill with a diameter of 4 mm, we drill two diametrically located holes in the crankcase so that they go to the end of the outer ring of the needle bearing. Through the drilled holes, we knock out the outer ring of the bearing from the crankcase with a rod of the appropriate diameter.
Using a puller, we press the ball bearing of the pinion shaft with the inner ring of the roller thrust bearing.
Using a puller, we press the inner ring of the needle bearing from the shaft.
Use a screwdriver to pry on and remove the gear shaft oil seal from the crankcase cover. If the outer ring of the thrust roller bearing needs to be replaced ...
... with a scraper, remove the extruded metal in four places and take out the ring. Liberally lubricate the bearings, rack teeth and gears, and the plastic bushing of the rack with Fiol-1 grease. We assemble the steering gear in reverse order. The outer ring of the needle bearing is pressed into the crankcase with a mandrel of a suitable diameter. Fast steel or cold welding can be used to seal the holes in the crankcase. We press the pinion shaft with a ball bearing into the crankcase with a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter or a high head, applying force to the outer ring of the bearing. You can press the pinion shaft into the crankcase by resting the outer bearing ring on the vise jaws. Then we put the crankcase on the bearing ...
… And press on the crankcase with light hammer blows through a block of wood.
We press the gear shaft oil seal into the cover through the mandrel or the head flush with the end face of the cover. We insert the rail into the steering gear housing. Install the pipe.
After tightening the pipe fastening nut, tighten the nut.
Scheme for monitoring the clearance in the engagement of the rack and pinion shaft: 1 - dial indicator; 2 - indicator mounting bracket; 3 - nut; 4 - a sealing ring; 5 - steering gear housing; 6 - needle bearing; 7 - pinion shaft; 8 - bushing; 9 - crankcase cover; 10 - rail; 11 - insert; 12 - rail stop; 13 - indicator leg; 14 - spring
We turn the gear shaft so that the flat on it is located on the right side. We move the rail so that the steering rod support, installed on the rail, is located in the middle of the pipe groove. Insert the rail stop, the stop spring and tighten the stop nut. It is recommended to replace the stop nut with a new one. We adjust the clearance in the meshing of the gear with the rack. To do this, set the rail to the middle position and block it from moving. Insert the dial indicator leg into the hole of the stop adjusting nut until the tip of the leg touches the rail stop. The diameter of the indicator stem tip must be at least 3.5 mm ...
Video (click to play).
... so that the foot rests against the end surface 1 of the stop, and does not fall into its hole 2 (for clarity, it is shown on the dismantled stop). We apply a torque of 15 Nm (1.5 kgfm) to the gear shaft, while the gear pushes the rack and stop. According to the readings of the indicator, we determine the amount of movement of the stop, which corresponds to the actual value of the gap in the engagement. If it exceeds 0.05 mm, we wrap the adjusting nut, achieving the specified amount of movement of the stop. After that, unlocking the rack, we check the ease of rotation of the drive gear in the entire range of the rack travel.