DIY plywood boat repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a plywood boat mullet from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Separate areas of the casing wood soaked to a shallow depth can not be changed, but restored using a mastic prepared from a mixture of VIAM-BZ glue (or epoxy resin) with fine sawdust or wood flour. The damaged area is cleaned with a chisel to healthy fibers and filled with mastic flush with the side edges. To prevent the mastic from spreading, its surface is covered with cellophane or paper and pressed with a board and a support (Fig. 307). After the mastic has hardened, the repaired section of the bead must be cleaned with a rasp and emery cloth, and then painted.

In case of significant damage to the casing belt, part of it must be replaced - make an insert. To do this, having outlined the boundaries of the belt to be replaced, free it from fasteners to the set and cut it out with a chisel and a narrow hacksaw. A new planking board (it should be prepared 2-3 mm thicker than the removed belt) is fitted in place and attached to the frames with rivets or screws, as is done on this case. To ensure tightness, strips of coarse calico impregnated with varnish, glue or thickly rubbed paint must be laid in the grooves between the boards. At the joints from the inside, overlays are installed from the same board as the insert itself. It is desirable that the pad has a length of the entire spacing, and overlaps the grooves of adjacent singing in width (Fig. 308, a). The butt pad is placed on a canvas pad impregnated with thickly rubbed paint or red lead. The heads of the screws (or rivets) securing the insert and cover plate to other plating and set are recessed into the plating by 6-8 mm, and the recesses above them are sealed with wooden corks or sawdust with glue. Then the boards of the replaced poyas are flush with the rest of the cladding, putty and painted.

Video (click to play).

If you have to replace several adjacent singing, then the joints of the inserts must be spaced along the length of the body so that they are in different spacing.

Repair of body kit parts.

Sections of damaged (burst or detached from the skin) frames can not be changed, but reinforced by installing duplicate linings of the same section (Fig. 308, b). Usually, the "understudy" is attached to the main frame with rivets or thin bolts, overlapping the defective area by 200-250 mm from each end.

Broken or rotted frames are best removed and replaced with new ones.

Before being installed in place, the oak frame is steamed by placing the workpiece in a pipe with a small amount of water, which is heated over a fire or a blowtorch flame. With a small cross-section of the frame, it is wrapped in rags and poured with boiling water for 10-15 minutes or kept wrapped in wet rags over a fire. As a result, the oak lath acquires elasticity and can easily be bent along the body contour.

Damaged bent frames, stem and other hull parts with a large curvature can be repaired using waterproof glue and a set of thin strips. A rotten or burst section of the frame is cut out with a chisel, as shown in Fig. 309. Using a 6-mm wire, a template is removed along the contour of the frame, which is transferred to an inch board 1. Having processed the curved edge of the board, a tsulagu is obtained, along which the frame can be glued from thin strips 2 (usually their thickness is from 5 to 8 mm). The slats, greased with glue on both sides, are easily bent along the tsulag and pressed against it with the help of clamps 3. After the glue has dried, the workpiece is removed from the template, processed to a clean size and put in place.The connection of the ends of the newly processed part with the old frame is performed with a mustache using glue.

If the cross-section of the frame is small, then the slats can be bent directly along the skin, in place, without making a tsulaga. When installing rivets, the package is tightly pulled to the casing. You can also use short screws for this purpose, screwing them into the casing from the side of the set, and then into the previously supplied slats.

The same lamination method (that is, gluing parts in layers) is also recommended for the manufacture of new knits instead of burst ones (Fig. 310, c).

Repair of plywood and veneer sheathing.

The damaged area is cut out so that a rectangular hole is obtained. Then two overlays are made of the same plywood as the sheathing; one - exactly along the cutout, and the other with overlapping holes on each side by 30-40 mm (Fig. 310, a). A large overlay is used to close the hole on the inside of the case (under the overlay it is necessary to put a thin cloth soaked in thick paint, epoxy resin or waterproof glue) and rivet it along the perimeter to the casing with thin nails with a pitch of 20-25 mm; brass boot nails are good for this purpose. The smaller pad is inserted from the outside flush with the skin and riveted to the inner pad. The finally sealed place is leveled with a putty, polished and painted in the usual way.

With significant hole sizes, instead of a solid internal plywood lining, butt strips of the same plywood are used, if it is sufficiently waterproof, or planed from strips (Fig. 310, b). If we are talking about a small hole in relation to the thickness of the sheathing, it is enough to cut the edges of the hole with a mustache and put an insert from the same plywood (Fig. 310, e).

To repair plywood sheathing, you can use ordinary construction plywood if soaked in natural drying oil. This is how it is done. A layer of drying oil is applied with a brush, after which the plywood surface is ironed with an iron heated to a temperature of 150-200 ° C. The procedure is repeated until the plywood stops absorbing drying oil. With this impregnation, drying oil penetrates into the plywood down to the glue layer. The inner side of the casing must be impregnated before installation on the kit, the outer side after.

With a slight curvature of the repaired section of the boat hull made of veneer (molded plywood), you can use the same methods as when repairing plywood sheathing. When replacing a double-curved section of sheathing, you have to glue this section out of veneer layers or narrow strips of thin waterproof plywood. In this case, the damaged veneer strips are removed from the skin, spreading the cutout border in the form of steps. After thoroughly cleaning the gluing surfaces, new strips of veneer or plywood are placed on the glue, pressing them in with small nails with "flies" - pieces of plywood, splitting which after the glue has hardened, you can release the nail heads to pull them out of the sheathing. The nail holes are filled with epoxy glue and wood flour, as are the gaps between the new veneer strips.

Covering the deck with sailcloth and eliminating water flow in the deckhouse.

If the deck on a cabin boat has leaks, you can get rid of them by covering the deck with fiberglass on an epoxy binder or canvas on a liquid oil putty. To do this, it is necessary to remove the beads, glazing beads and clamping strips, plan it with a plane and putty the deck flooring. Then, on a liquid putty (drying oil - 250 g, turpentine - 20 g, desiccant - 40 g, chalk - 690 g) put the previously cut canvas, nail it, starting from the stern, with small nails to the coamings of the cabin and hatches and pull it tight to the sides. When all the edges of the fabric are secured, you can reinstall the beads and glazing beads and prime the deck by rubbing in the paint with an end brush. The better the paint penetrates through the pores of the fabric and the tighter the fabric stretches, the more reliable the coating will be. In fig. 311, and shows a variant of securing the edge of the canvas with a shoulder; in fig.311, b - bulwark.

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The water flow of the felling in the connection with the deck and deck hatches along the coamings can be eliminated only after removing all lining squares, cutting and cleaning the grooves and filling them with mastic composed of epoxy glue (with a plasticizer) and sawdust.

Traveler »27 March 2011, 20:57, Sun

Tim »27 Mar 2011, 21:00, Sun

zimmer007 »27 March 2011, 22:28, Sun

I used mullet with Veterok 8 and Jonson 5, in principle it is normal. With two not heavy people, you can go to the "glider", yes, yes, it is in quotes, if you place the weight correctly. If the boat is old, then the full throttle is a bit dumb - the motor with a transom can sail separately from the boat. I used a boat on the Shuya river and even had the experience of passing rapids under a motor from Kindasovo to the lake. Vagatozero and rafting back. The new, not rotten body perfectly plays back even very serious blows against stones. In order for the mullet to serve for a long time, it needs careful care, with plastic in this regard, there is less hassle, but repairs are more expensive.

KoT »28 March 2011, 16:39, Mon

I drove on a large mullet with two breezes. Gets up on the speedboat without any problems. At low 12th breeze showed the same results. The boats are very nimble.

If one is in a small mullet, then you can rake at least 10 km and not even sweat. Goes great.

The large mullet housed 3 adult anglers with sufficient comfort. Small 2.

But there is one “but”: This boat is not for the wave. On Onega more than once he drowned on mullets, fortunately not far from the coast.

Traveler »28 March 2011, 17:16, Mon

KoT »28 March 2011, 17:35, Mon

Yeah.
There is a mini mullet - length 2800
And mullet 2M - length 3700

I know for sure that with careful storage and operation, a mullet is enough for five years.

Tim »28 March 2011, 19:23, Mon

And PVCshki for 10 exactly

KoT »28 Mar 2011, 19:30, Mon

Traveler »28 March 2011, 19:48, Mon

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Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet


The beginning of the story - here.
The marching repairs fully justified themselves, but it was undesirable to walk for a long time with a temporary patch.
For the polyurethane glue, with which the gaps were smeared on the outside, decomposes and crumbles from ultraviolet radiation,
as a result, the plywood could be damaged by moisture.

So, the weather finally allowed us to do some serious repairs.
The temporary patch was ripped off (not without difficulty) after unscrewing the screws (but they turned out easily).

The paint is stripped off with chisels in the cycle mode.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet


To be sure, in the corners, the paint was lightly toasted with a flame of a gas burner and peeled off completely.

A permanent patch was cut out of BS-1 aircraft 3 mm thick (thanks to Alexander Mavrin),
fitted, the mating surfaces are generously greased with epoxy glue, the patch is applied,
pressed along the perimeter with small studs (driven into the set), and pressed in the middle with spacers.
The old (temporary) patch is not glued, but is used to evenly distribute the force of the spacers.

After curing, small cracks and holes from the nails will be filled with epoxy putty.

Then the symmetrical damaged area of ​​the bottom will be preventively duplicated,
the total thickness of the skin will reach

8 mm including pasting with fiberglass outside.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet


Outside, as best he could, he leveled and smeared the resin streaks, if possible, putty the holes from the screws with them.
Of course, this is porn, and tomorrow, if the weather does not deteriorate, I will clean up and putty this mess.

But if it gets worse, I can go camping with porn, in this sense I have no complexes.

Yes, in terms of repair, the wooden boat is cool stuff. I remember that both battleships and submarines were closed up with pieces of wood! I just got the idea - even if a similar accident happens on the duralumin, then as a temporary measure - a patch of plywood on self-tapping screws may be quite useful! It will swell and everything will stick.

> then as a temporary measure - a plywood patch on self-tapping screws,
> may be fine! It will swell and everything will stick.

The plywood itself will not swell enough to stop flowing.
Be sure to need a sealant, either silicone or polyurethane glue.

Or just a piece of foam rubber?

No. Rubber as a seal does not channel.
Vladivostok residents "from the old" remember Kostya Morozov's stupid experiments with repairs
duralumin bodies through porous rubber (you see, he stole a large roll somewhere).

No matter how he tried to carefully rivet, the result was always the same: a strong leak.

Only a sealant is suitable to ensure that there is no leakage.

Got it, thanks for the warning. Tends not to repeat stupid mistakes.

Ivan, what if you take rather dense polystyrene and polyurethane foam and lay the frames and pull them off with plywood from above, won't it be much stronger and more reliable?

I just want to do it on my Dnieper so that the rivets do not break due to thin sheets on the bottom

Sending Edited (20-07-06 00:44)

I thought about it, but I hesitate.
The fact is that I read several reports of self-builders that polystyrene
inevitably collects water and does not dry out completely, and underneath the plywood rots.
Moreover, these are real stories, real boats.

But you can try it on the duralumin “Dnieper” in a freshwater reservoir.

but if you try to epoxy the inner part well, or will the water still find a hole? ...

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet


The result of today's labors. Everything in the boat must be symmetrical.
I glued on the second duplicate pad. Yesterday's already stuck to death.
US . and we are getting stronger!

I'm still afraid. Better the old, tried-and-true way.

US . current buoy to blunt, Ivan, regardless of the weather, bring down to Wrangel.

Yesterday, by the way, during the work, our “beloved” inspector of the State Inspection for Medical Inspection approached me,
sympathized, looked, felt, smelled, approved 😉

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Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mulletArtema 15 Aug 2006

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mulletArtema 19 Aug 2006

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mulletYULA 19 Aug 2006

Well, really no one can answer how you can easily and reliably repair a boat ?? like all these specials communicate.
normal boat is not rotten at all

We can, but not now. Wait until autumn, we will tell and show everything. It's just not up to now. Do not despair. If the skin is intact, you can restore it in the best possible way. I have already done this, though a long time ago, twenty years ago. I will be more free, I will describe in detail.
ABB.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mulletArtema 19 Aug 2006

We can, but not now. Wait until autumn, we will tell and show everything. It's just not up to now. Do not despair. If the skin is intact, you can restore it in the best possible way. I have already done this, though a long time ago, twenty years ago. I will be more free, I will describe in detail.
ABB.

Thank you ABB, I will wait for an answer!
Until autumn it will be tolerable this year it will no longer be possible to go out on a boat

In order for the mullet to go better on oars and under sail, it must be lengthened in such a way that the bottom comes out of the water.

How is it?
Mullet has a monohedron stern, a transom undercut does not exist in principle, no matter how long the bottom comes out of the water. Parallel lines do not intersect, this is taught in school.

Repairing a plywood boat is a rather difficult task that not everyone is able to cope with. There are many nuances here that you must pay attention to. Repair of plywood boats and boats can be carried out by special workshops. If a person has money, then it is better to go there. However, not everyone can afford it. In some situations, it is much easier and more profitable to do the work yourself.

Plywood boats should be checked from time to time and, if a breakdown is found, contact a specialist.

Repairing a plywood boat requires experience in plumbing and construction. A person must be able to use a certain set of tools. How a plywood boat is repaired will be discussed further.

Depending on which part of the boat will have to be repaired, the following tools and materials will be needed:

  • wood flour;
  • mastic;
  • wooden beam;
  • hammer;
  • rasp;
  • sandpaper;
  • chisel;
  • boards;
  • rivets;
  • dye;
  • glue;
  • wood sawdust;
  • plywood.

The sheathing of a plywood boat deteriorates due to frequent contact with water.

Nowadays, sheathing made of boards or plywood can easily deteriorate. There are many reasons for this. The main thing is that the tree, in contact with water, gradually gets wet. Situations may arise when not all parts are rotten through and through. In this case, mastic can be used for repairs. In the process of carrying out work, wood sawdust or flour is added to it. The area, which was damaged during operation, must be cleaned from the remains of low-quality wood, and then covered with mastic flush with the side edges. The mastic can spread during the work process. To prevent this from happening, you need to stick paper or polyethylene on it. They are additionally pressed with a support. After the mastic dries, you can additionally process the area with a rasp and sandpaper. After that, it is colored.

When it comes to significant damage to the skin, then you cannot do without partial replacement of elements. In this situation, an insert is made. First you have to disassemble the part that needs to be replaced. For these purposes, it is customary to use a chisel and a narrow hacksaw. After that, it is worth removing all the old fasteners, and then the damaged area itself. Next, you need to prepare a new board. It will be secured in place with screws or rivets. The specific choice is made depending on what kind of fasteners were used on the case. The board should fit perfectly into place.

Canvas will be needed to make the butt pad.

Do not forget about tightness. In this situation, it is best to use coarse calico, which is impregnated with special compounds, and then stacked between the boards. From the inside, it is worth mounting overlays from the same board. In this case, the butt pad is made of canvas, which is additionally impregnated with thick paint. If screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the elements, then they must be sunk into the casing without fail. The depth is then reached approximately 6-9 mm. A small depression remains above them. It also needs to be repaired. This is done with sawdust glue or wood corks.

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Both options are acceptable in this situation. Now you can start planing the boards of the hull. This is done flush with the rest of the details. To obtain a more reliable structure, it should be putty or painted. You can combine these two techniques to make the design really high quality.

Plywood boat construction.

If, as a result of the operation of a plywood boat, the frames were damaged, then they also need to be repaired. They do not need to be changed, but you will need to install special overlays that will duplicate them. This assumes that they will have the same cross section. Typically, these pads are attached with rivets. The defective area must be covered. For this, a stock is made when preparing a part of 200 mm.

If the frames are in poor condition, they should be replaced. You shouldn't use regular overlays.

Frames are quite complex structural parts. When preparing them, it is imperative to hold the workpiece for some time in hot water, which is poured into a special pipe. If we talk about details that are small in size, then you can use wet rags for wrapping. As a result, you need to get wood that will deform without problems. It needs to be bent along the body contour.

Sometimes special rails are used to attach a new frame. They will also have to be bent. This will require hot water. They can be mounted both on glue and on self-tapping screws.

Sheathing most often suffers during the operation of a plywood boat. Accordingly, she needs repairs.

First, it is worth deciding on the parameters of the damaged area.

When inspecting the skin, it is necessary to determine the area of ​​the damaged section of the boat for repair.

It is always cut in such a way that a rectangular hole is obtained. Then two overlays are made of plywood of the same grade that was used for the sheathing. The first one will be used for exterior decoration, and the second one will cover the skin from the inside. The one that is used from the inside must be larger. It is attached with thin nails.

It is important to adhere to a certain step. It should be approximately 20-25 mm. The smallest trim is installed externally. It is fastened with rivets. The component is flush mounted. Now you can perform cosmetic work, which consists of puttying, sanding and painting. Of course, the boat is unlikely to become ideal, but this measure will allow it to return to working condition.

If we are talking about significant damage to the cladding, then a solid sheet of plywood is indispensable. Special pads of the same material are used. If plywood was used, which does not have good resistance to water exposure, then planed battens can be used for this purpose.

As for the material for repairing the cladding, in most cases, ordinary construction plywood can be used. However, it must first be impregnated with linseed oil. Only in this way it will not give any leaks. A special technology is used for processing. With the help of a brush, a special drying oil is applied to the plywood. It should be ironed with an iron preheated to a temperature of 150-200 ° C. This procedure is very laborious and time-consuming. The drying oil is applied to the plywood until it stops absorbing it. It penetrates right down to the adhesive layer. It is important to follow the rule - the inner side is impregnated before installation on the set, and the outer side after installation.

To eliminate the water leakage of the boat deck, it is necessary to lay a canvas on it.

Sometimes situations arise when a leak appears on the deck of a cabin boat. Of course, you should get rid of such a nuisance. It can harm everything on the ship, and in the end, simply destroy its structure. To eliminate it, canvas on a liquid oil putty is most often used. Sometimes it is replaced with fiberglass.

The renovation begins with the preparation of the deck flooring. All constructs that are located on it are removed. These are collars and clamping strips. As a result, the flooring must remain completely clean. Then, with the help of putty, the canvas is impregnated, which is subsequently nailed to the sides in an interference fit. It is very important that this is done with just such a technology. Small nails are best for fastening. After the installation has been completed, you can again mount all the previously removed constructs in their places.

Don't forget about additional activities. The deck must be primed. The paint is rubbed in with an end brush. Here the pattern is extremely simple - the better the tension of the canvas and the deeper the paint penetrates into its structure, the more reliable the coating itself will be.

Leaks can also form in the wheelhouse. This work is one of the most difficult of those discussed earlier. If the leaking of the deckhouse has formed in conjunction with the deck and deck hatches along the coamings, then the work can be performed only after removing all the finishing squares.

This is followed by the stage of cutting and cleaning the grooves. This can be done using a variety of tools. The preparatory work does not end there. The grooves that have been loosened and cleaned must be finished with mastic.She is able to fill all the space that will be given to her. Most often, the mastic is made up of epoxy glue. However, it alone cannot be used. Better to add sawdust to it. Sometimes they are replaced with wood flour.

Thus, there are many different types of breakdowns found in plywood boats. All of them are removed by various methods and materials. None of them are universal. After reading the above, you will be able to repair your plywood boat yourself.

Of course, this business is worth doing if you have certain skills in working with the tool. Otherwise, it is worth contacting specialists. However, knowing the basics, you can always monitor the implementation of activities.

Repairing a wooden boat is a task within the reach of anyone with construction skills and tools. Otherwise, repairing a wooden boat with your own hands will be difficult. It is better to seek professional help. But let's try to figure out how to repair a wooden boat yourself and using the tools at hand.

After all, lovers of hunting and fishing, as well as avid tourists, are well aware of how useful a boat can be. That's just, like any thing, a long-term and often-operated vessel, in the end, falls into disrepair. This, of course, is not a reason to part with her. Better try to fix it.

First you need to stock up on everything you need.
To start repairing a wooden boat, you need the following tools: chisel, hammer, rivets, screws, screws, rasp, sandpaper, hacksaw. In addition, you need to collect the materials necessary for the work: boards, plywood, sawdust (or wood flour), glue, mastic, putty, paint. Of course, depending on what kind of damage you need to fix, you may not need all of the listed items, and you may need to get something else additionally.

Breakdowns during the repair of a wooden boat can be very different, and in each case, a different method of repair is required. Let's take a look at the options.

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Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

Prolonged contact of a tree with water, in the end, leads to the destruction and decay of individual parts of the body. Even treatment with water-repellent agents cannot completely prevent this.
Damaged areas do not always need to be replaced; sometimes you can try to repair them. For these purposes, you will need wooden boat mastic. The damaged area is cleaned of destroyed and rotten wood, after which it is filled with mastic. To prevent the latter from flowing out, it should be pressed, for example, with paper. And to increase the strength of the repaired area, wood shavings are added to the mastic (wood flour can be used).

Processing a wooden boat with rubber-bitumen mastic is a common and effective way to solve the problem of hull damage.

By the way! The main property of rubber-bitumen mastic is high water resistance. It also perfectly protects the treated surfaces from corrosion and decay.

If the damage is extensive, you will have to resort to replacing the leaky area. To do this, you need to remove the mount and cut out the part to be replaced. In its place, they put a new board, perfectly fitted in size, and fasten it to the frames with screws or rivets. For greater strength from the inside, the repaired area is reinforced with an additional wooden plate. To ensure tightness, all the cracks of the wooden boat being repaired must be laid with strips of coarse calico, having previously impregnated them with glue, the heads of the screws should be immersed in the skin, and the holes formed above them should be filled with glue and sawdust.

By the way! Waterproof adhesives VIAM-BZ, KB-3, KDM-6 are best suited for gluing ship parts. They will provide reliable waterproofing.Casein adhesives are much less resistant to water, therefore they are used for gluing the internal parts of the case. Glue containing epoxy resins has good water resistance, therefore it is also widely used in the repair of wooden boats.

When repairing plywood sheathing, a rectangular hole is cut out in the body and sealed with two overlays (one must exactly correspond to the dimensions of the hole, the second (internal) must be slightly larger).
After the completion of the restoration work, the renewed area is subjected to cosmetic repairs: putty and paint.

In this situation, when repairing a wooden boat, it is important to decide whether the frames can be repaired or whether it is easier to replace them with new ones. If repair is still possible, then special overlays are installed on the damaged area, overlapping it in size. Fastening is carried out with rivets.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

Another common reason for wooden boat repairs is leaks.

To do this, you first need to remove all structures on it from the deck flooring in order to prepare it for repair. If a leak occurs in the wheelhouse, then it is necessary to remove all squares, cut and clean the grooves. Only after that you can start fixing the breakdown.

Then, the deck flooring is putty, a piece of canvas is placed on top, nailed to the coamings with small nails and attached to the sides. After that, the deck is primed and painted.

P. S. Do-it-yourself wooden boat repair is not at all difficult, as it might seem at first glance. But if you still doubt your capabilities, then do not hesitate to contact the specialists.
Give your boat another chance and it will serve you for years!

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

The plastic boat "SF 390" produced by the Vologda Composite Materials Plant is an analogue of the long-established plywood boat "Kefal". The boat has a relatively light weight, easy running under the oars and the ability to operate in tandem with an outboard motor up to 8 HP. in displacement mode. The boat "SF 390" is perfect for use as a utility vessel for short-distance travel or a rental boat at tourist centers or other places of mass recreation.

The boat "SF 390" is made in a fiberglass hull and consists of two sections, which made it possible to achieve an aesthetic appearance not only from the outside of the boat, but also inside the cockpit. The rigidity of the hull is provided by the deployed gunwale, transverse container banks and a flat deck. Emergency buoyancy blocks are located under the deck.
Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

The boat is equipped with three seats made in the form of plastic boxes. The basic configuration assumes deaf banks, but on request, lockers can be placed in them by equipping them with lids.
Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet


The solid walls of the seats make it somewhat inconvenient to store and transport long items (rods, etc.) in the boat, but allow you to organize a dry space for other things.

Please rate the boat and leave your review about this boat.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

The fiberglass boat has gained popularity for its durability and reliability. Fiberglass has a number of significant advantages over other materials. The ship can be assembled quickly and inexpensively. A do-it-yourself fiberglass boat is a budget and worthy option for fishing trips.

The plastic small boat is mainly intended for fishing. It can also be used for boating, sports. Operating conditions of the boat on the water: wave no more than 60 cm high, wind force - up to 4 points on a ten-point scale. The fiberglass boat is a great alternative to inflatable boats.

Fiberglass is the only material that allows you to create a shape of any complexity yourself. Independent design of the bottom makes it possible to equip it with redans of any configuration.It is possible to maximize the efficiency of the boat's sailing performance by placing the steps in the most suitable places. In addition, the design of the homemade boat will reflect the character of its owner.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

There is a method of making a homemade boat from plywood and fiberglass, when plastic is used only for the outer coating of the boat. But this technology doesn't pay off. The layer of plywood underneath the plastic quickly picks up moisture, which increases the weight of the boat. There is a rapid destruction of plywood due to the influence of microorganisms and the delamination process, because plywood is significantly inferior in strength to plastic.

How to make a boat? By carefully following all the rules, even a beginner will be able to accomplish this task. The technological process is simple and budgetary. The hull of the ship is created due to the reinforcing filler impregnated with the polymer composition.

Raw materials used as reinforcing filler in the manufacture of the frame:

  • hull base, sides - roving fiberglass TP-07, TP-03, TP-056;
  • local strengthening of individual areas - structural glass fabrics T-11, T-13.

Fiberglass is of different types according to the type of weaving, the size of the threads. Basically choose "oblique" or satin weaving. The threads must be twisted. The material is sold in the form of sheets, rolls, tape.

Image - DIY repair of a plywood boat mullet

Fiberglass is sold impregnated with a fatty compound. To better saturate the fabric with the binder, the sizing should be removed with gasoline, white spirit or acetone. The degreased fabric is dried in air for about 2-4 hours.

You will need resin to bond the reinforcing material. There are three types of resins used in the shipbuilding industry: epoxy, vinyl ester, polyester. The most important characteristics of resins in the construction of a fiberglass boat from any type of fiber are adhesion and impregnation.

A cheap option is to use polyester resin, which allows you to create a one-piece fiberglass element in one operation. You can apply TM Ashland resin. To create a decorative, protective coating of the case, you will need a gelcoat. You will also need plywood with a thickness of at least 1.2 cm, which has moisture resistance.

The manufacture of a boat is impossible without a competent drawing. The design of the future watercraft can be carried out using the AutoCAD program. First, a 3D model is created, then schemes of frames, patterns. Ready-made drawings are taken from specialized sites on the Internet. Now you can start making your own fiberglass boat.

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