In detail: DIY headlight repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
DIY replacement DRL for CHERY TIGGO FL Buck Module Link - ali.pub/1ilnwb got.by/1ilnwb LEDs - ali.pub/1jej1o, got.by / 1jej1o
thanks for the hard work, but why is the sound from the video so much behind ??
Can sumone explain to me what did he do at the end with the LEDs pls
Cool! Do you accept repair orders?
Not! one headlight was enough for me!
There is an option. Only I removed the glass, I replaced 1w 350 mA (standard ones) with 3w 750 mA (they have the same price) and made a circuit of three diodes in each circuit, I put a 10 Ohm 5w resistor (instead of a board, so I extinguished the voltage) my DRLs live och long ride for a year and all the rules shine a little brighter and almost do not get warm. good luck to all
thanks for the vidos. I will repair! I'm thinking of trying to remove the glass.
Copying design and borrowing technical solutions, engines and even platforms from eminent automakers is a feature of many Chinese cars. One such example is the Chery Tiggo, which has become a very successful reincarnation of the second generation Toyota RAV4 crossover. Let's check how things are going with its maintenance? We assess maintainability in points - they correspond to the total standard hours (according to the official grid) spent on certain operations.
There are two gasoline engines and two types of drive available for the Tiggo in our market. The older 2.0 engine is paired only with an all-wheel drive transmission and a five-speed manual gearbox. Unfortunately, we were not able to touch this modification due to the extremely low demand for it. Most dealers do not keep such machines in their warehouses and only bring them to order.
Video (click to play).
But the most demanded Tiggo was dismantled to a screw: with a 1.6 engine and no alternative front-wheel drive - such versions come with both a variator and a mechanics.
Regardless of the configuration, the Tiggo has a very peculiar maintenance schedule. The time interval is the usual year, and the service mileage was reduced to 10 thousand km. In addition, the list included works long forgotten by most manufacturers with suspiciously frequent deadlines.
The 1.6 petrol four with a maintenance-free timing chain drive was created on the basis of the Mitsubishi engine, which was slightly modernized, equipped with two variable valve timing couplings and a variable-length intake manifold.
Surprisingly, all attachments are driven by one belt. It is fortunate that there is an automatic roller tensioner with a quite convenient release mechanism. When replacing the belt, be sure to sketch or photograph how it stood, otherwise you will waste a lot of time later without prompting. We change the belt from below, additionally removing the side boot.
An interesting ignition system is used on this engine, again borrowed from Mitsubishi. Two-lead coils are installed in the wells of the second and fourth cylinders. Outwardly, they resemble individual ones - with one lead the coil sits directly on the candle, and the high-voltage wire goes to the neighboring "pot". There will be no problems with replacing candles (according to the regulations - every 20 thousand km). All this exotic is covered only by a decorative motor cover on simple clamps.
The coils are fixed with bolts "8", and their connectors have simple fastenings. For candles you will need a familiar "16" head.
Strange, but the regulations do not indicate the timing of replacing the engine air filter. And he usually does not live more than 20 thousand km. The upper filter cover is fixed with two self-tapping screws and three projections in the grooves on the lower housing. When replacing the filter, it is enough to unscrew the fasteners.Lift the cover, but do not remove it from the case, otherwise you will then fall into the grooves for a long time.
Antifreeze replacement is prescribed every 40 thousand km - very often! Fortunately, there is a divine drain plug on the radiator. Additionally, we remove the half of a small boot on the bumper under it.
Pleased with the presence of a separate filter outside the tank. The fuel lines are fixed on it with convenient quick-release couplings. To remove the filter, unclench the metal bracket that tightens it and unscrew the "ground" wire fixed to the body with a bolt "8". It would seem that everything is fine, but the matter is overshadowed by the ultra-short interval for replacing the element - every 20 thousand km!
I was also struck by the presence of a mandatory operation to update the power steering oil. Of course, sooner or later, the grease needs to be changed (despite the fact that it is supposedly designed for the entire service life), but not as often as the "Chinese" require - first at 20 thousand mileage, and then every 40 thousand!
The service of the mechanical box also excelled. The oil change interval is 30 thousand km. Even for serious off-road vehicles, it is not updated with such enviable regularity. It's good that the usual drain and filler plugs are provided. The normal oil level is at the lower edge of the filler hole.
Even the variator has a life of its own. Not only is it designed to use conventional ATF fluid for hydromechanical automatic devices, it also provides for only one oil change per 40 thousand kilometers. Aggregates of this type are quite whimsical - that's where you shouldn't be limited to just one fluid update! At the same time, the procedure is quite simple - everything is like in the usual classic slot machines. There is a normal drain plug and even a good old dipstick (also a filler hole). Only its location let us down. It comes out almost under the engine air filter housing, and it is difficult to reach it with your hand, let alone the oil fill. Well, at least it won't be difficult to remove the case. It is secured on the sides with two “10” bolts and a regular clamp on the throttle body.
The battery is fixed by the upper bar on two studs with nuts "10". Regular terminals are not overloaded with additional elements. Everything is removed quickly and without problems.
The Chinese were too clever with the location of the engine compartment fuse box. He was pushed into the right cup (upper suspension strut support). The block covers a separate part of the "frill" (cover under the windshield), fixed with four caps for a Phillips screwdriver. It is inconvenient to put it back - it is difficult to immediately hit the ledges under the glass. The fuse box cover is secured on the sides with two latches. It contains the English-language designations of the chains and their spare protectors. The cabin unit is located under a simple cover on the dashboard (bottom left). But, unfortunately, there are no designations or spare fuses on it.
All brakes are disc brakes. The calipers are secured with bolts "13". Replacing the front pads - no surprises, and at the back there is a nice bonus - no recessed pad is needed. The pistons are brought together without rotation with an improvised tool. Replacement of brake fluid - every 40 thousand km. The fittings are conveniently located.
Replacing lamps in front optics is a thankless task. Free access is only to the turn signals. Their sockets are located in the inner corners of the headlights near the radiator grill and are secured by turning. The rest of the lamps have a simple fixation, but it is difficult to crawl up to them. Burnt out diode running lights must be replaced along with the optics.
Access to the right headlight is severely limited by the antifreeze reservoir. Fortunately, he effortlessly comes up from the mounts. If this did not help, then you will have to remove the optics, partially dismantling the bumper.
The trouble is with the front foglights. It is unheard of that to replace lamps you had to not only remove, but also disassemble the headlight! Access to lighting equipment is only from below and from the side, and it is necessary to partially dismantle the fenders.
There are no problems with the lamps in the taillights. The brake lights in them are diode, as in the additional element on the rear door. Access to the rest of the lamps is through the niches in the sidewalls of the trunk. They are closed with lids with simple latches. Under them are large plastic plugs that can be removed by hand or prying off with a screwdriver.
With rear foglights, too, not everything is smooth. They are located in the corner portions of the bumper and the pivot-secured lamp holders abut against the body panel. Accordingly, the headlights will have to be removed along with these corner bumpers. The operation is time consuming.
Chery Tiggo FL scored 15.5 points - a mediocre figure. And this despite the fact that the car is surprisingly easy to maintain, as in the good old days. The barrel of honey was spoiled by annoying fly in the ointment: a mysterious maintenance schedule with very short intervals for changing liquids and ridiculous difficulties with replacing lamps in optics.
The editors would like to thank the technical center "Cheri Center Kashirsky" (Moscow) for help in preparing the material
The refinement of Cherie Tigo in the FL modification, like tuning other Chinese cars, is best to start with the engine rework. Having “bewitched” over the power unit, you can proceed to work on the brakes and the car body. Let's find out what awaits those who want to improve the Chinese SUV and how to do the technical part of the modernization with their own hands.
Quite often, Cherry car owners find themselves in situations where the car simply won't start. And this despite the fact that it is not frosty outside, there is enough engine oil, the car hasn’t hit a lot, but the power unit of the car stubbornly does not start. And even if it starts, the Tiggo shows a rather sluggish acceleration, the appearance of floating revs and an increase in fuel consumption. Many attribute these problems to low-quality gasoline, however, as practice shows, the cause of the FL model malfunction lies much deeper.
Almost all representatives of the Tigo FL model range are equipped with 16-valve motors with IKZ. Experts call a bad spark one of the main disadvantages of such engines. A similar problem makes itself felt after the first six months of Chery operation. As a result, dips appear in the accumulative phase of the ignition coils, lasting no more than 3 ms. Despite the short duration, the swing of the dips sometimes reaches about 5 V, which is more than noticeable at high speed. A decrease in the maximum accumulation during a rupture by as much as 18% is equivalent to a decrease in the energy in the coil. As a result, the coil gives 33% less energy to the candle than required.
It is possible to solve the problem with your own hands by tuning by installing capacitors. Moreover, it is necessary to look for a place for their installation as close as possible to the center of the load. In addition to installing capacitors, the circuit that powers the Tiggo ignition coils will also need to be reworked. Fortunately, this is also very easy to do without the help of specialists.
Having figured out the cause of the problem and how to fix it, you can go to the store. For tuning, we need to select 2 capacitors with the following characteristics:
voltage range from 35 to 63 V;
capacitance limits 3200–4700 μF;
parts must be low impedance, marked LowESR;
it is better to give preference to the products of firms Samwha, CapXon or Jamicon.
After the purchase, the most interesting begins, namely the preparation and installation of capacitors. To begin with, the conclusions of the parts must be twisted and the wires must be soldered. Finished parts must be insulated with heat shrinkage. Tuning by installing elements can be done in two ways.
The first of them consists in cutting the electrical tape of the bundle under the corrugation of the coil located between the second and third cylinders of the Tigo FL. There we find several blue wires, one of which is marked S1. You need to connect the pluses of the previously twisted capacitors to this wire.
The second method relies on soldering the positive leads of the capacitors to the blue lead wire that exits from the ECM connector.In both the first and second cases, the minus wiring of the capacitors must be soldered to the point of mass under the M6 bolt. The point we need is near the Cherry oil pressure gauge.
After installing the capacitors, we proceed to the next stage of tuning - reworking the power supply circuit of the Tiggo coils. Initially, the circuit consists of a large number of different wires and has 4 connectors. Power to the latter comes from the ignition switch. This principle of power supply negatively affects the resistance in the coils. In order to solve the problem, you can supply power to the coils from the main relay of the engine control unit. To do this, you need to find a crimp with the inscription S5. In Cherry cars, it is located between the ECM harnesses towards the dashboard.
As soon as you find a wire with this marking, you need to disconnect it from the general connector and pull it towards the Chery engine shield. Next, we connect the wire to the ECU relay, having previously replaced the 33rd fuse from 7.5 A to 10 A. After the work done with our own hands, we get high dynamics when accelerating an SUV. Dips disappear automatically, the car reacts better to pressing the gas pedal. The Chery engine will idle better, and fuel consumption will be reduced by about 0.8-1 l / 100 km.
Initially, the Tigo FL is equipped with a dual-circuit hydraulic braking system. A special pressure regulator, popularly nicknamed the "sorcerer", is responsible for the stable operation of the rear brake discs. This part is considered one of the weakest components of Chery brakes. We propose to consider the principles of tuning the brake system, replacing the regulator and remaking the two-circuit-diagonal design for a two-circuit-axial one.
The main role of the “sorcerer” is to create force in the rear of the PL braking system, depending on the severity of the braking and the load on the Tiggo. In a standard suspension, the regulator can be easily adjusted to certain settings. However, even having slightly exceeded the allowable load of the car, you can forget about the presence of a “sorcerer” in Chery. As a result, almost every third Chery has serious problems with the brake system.
Tuning a Chinese SUV is carried out in 2 stages. At the first stage, we will be converting the brakes to a dual-axis system. The second stage will consist of replacing the regulator with a better part from Chevrolet lanos.
The Tiggo dual-circuit diagonal braking system at its rear is equipped with two special tubes that are connected to the discs. In order to turn the machine system into a two-circuit-axial one, it is necessary to plug one of the pipes on the main brake cylinder. In this case, we leave the "sorcerer" for now, closing his pipe. You can also replace the regulator with a T-piece. As a result, we get a more stable and even operation of the rear part of the Chery braking system, that is, after tuning, all 4 wheels of the FL model will brake equally with maximum effort.
In the second step, we will install a Lanos regulator on the Tiggo. The only drawback of this method is the need to seek help from a familiar turner, since the hole and thread for the pipe from the Chevrolet are not suitable for mounting on the Tiggo. We also need an adapter with which we can screw the tubes on both sides of the regulator. So, it is necessary to remove the Chery rear wheels and dismantle the brake discs. Just above the wheel arches is a regulator that we have to remove. In the form of a regular "sorcerer" you need to file a detail from Lanos. Next, we mount a new element and fasten the wheels.
