DIY scarlet hair dryer repair

In detail: do-it-yourself scarlet hair dryer repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Household hair dryer operation

The hair dryer operates on a 220 V, 50 Hz network. Any hair dryer has two main parts - a heating element and an electric motor.

As a rule, a nichrome spiral is used as a heating element, it is it that provides warm air. In hair dryers, DC electric motors with a power of up to 50 watts are mainly used, there are exceptions.

Passing through the spiral, the current loses its initial strength, since the spiral has a certain resistance, it is this current that is rectified by the diode bridge and supplied to the electric motor.

Electric motors in hair dryers are designed for voltages of 12, 24 and 36 volts, only in very rare models electric motors with a power supply of 220 volts are used, in this case, the voltage from the network is directly supplied to the electric motor. A propeller (propeller) is attached to the rotor of the engine, which provides heat removal from the spiral, it is thanks to this that a sufficiently strong directed flow of warm air is obtained at the outlet. The power of the hair dryer depends on the thickness of the coil used and the power of the installed electric motor.

The brought hair dryer was disassembled, it turned out that the problem was a broken track on the board with switches. After filling it with solder, the device started working normally.

But most often, the main reasons for inoperability are a broken spiral, an inoperative engine, contacts of switches that have melted from heat, a broken mains wire or plug.

What the hair dryer consists of:

Elements in the diagram: 1 - diffuser nozzle, 2 - body, 3 - air duct, 4 - handle, 5 - cord twist protection, 6 - “Cold air” mode button, 7 - air flow temperature switch, 8 - flow rate switch air, 9 - "Turbo" mode button - maximum air flow, 10 - a loop for hanging a hair dryer.

Video (click to play).

Wiring diagram for a simple hair dryer

A DC voltage is supplied to the electric motor, obtained by means of a diode bridge consisting of four diodes (or simply from one diode).

Let us single out two elements of the circuit that are consumers (loads), these are the spiral and the diode bridge (we do not consider the motor, since it is the load of the bridge). In the circuit, the elements are located in series (one after the other), which means that the voltage drop across each of them will depend on its own resistance and their sum will be equal to the mains voltage at the third position of the switch.

Most of the entry-level hair dryers have a simple wiring diagram, in such hair dryers there is only one switch that turns on the fan and heating element. Heaters can be made in various modifications, but in all hair dryers they are made of nichrome coiled into a spring.

However, almost all simple modern hair dryers have 2-3 steps of power and air flow regulation.

More advanced hair dryers have smooth controls for the airflow speed and air temperature.

Rules for the use of hair dryers

The recommended maximum run time is 5 minutes. At the end of the work, remove the temperature regulator to a minimum, leave it on a cold blower for half a minute, and only then turn off the hair dryer. Try not to take it with wet hands, otherwise moisture may get on the internal elements of the circuit, which can lead to a short circuit.

In everyday life, a large number of electrical appliances are used to make life easier for the layman. But any technique tends to fail over time. Repairing a hair dryer can be easily done with your own hands at home, without asking for help from a service center.

A hair dryer is a device that is used to dry and style hair. It consists of the following structural elements:

Engine;
TEN - heating element;
Fan;
Thermal protection;
Power cable;
Regulators (fan speed, temperature, etc.).

The principle of operation of the household hair dryer is based on a low-voltage DC collector motor. In order for the device to turn on, a special lowering coil is used in its design, which helps to drop the voltage to the required level. It is installed inside the heating element. With the help of a diode bridge, the voltage is rectified. The engine has a steel shaft on which a fan is mounted (in most cases, it is made of plastic, although there are now professional models with metal blades). The fan can have two, three or even four blades.

Photo - hair dryer design

The heating element of an electric hair dryer is presented in the form of a spiral with a nichrome wire. It is wound on a non-combustible base, which increases the safety when using the device. When plugged in, the coil begins to heat up, and the fan installed behind it blows warm air out of the hair dryer case. To protect against overheating, a temperature controller (adjustable during operation) and a thermostat are used. In addition, any hair dryer has a "cold wind" or "cool" button - when you press it, the spiral stops heating up, only the engine and the fan remain to work, respectively, cold air blows from the nozzle.

Photo - filter

It should be noted that not all equipment has a thermostat. It is designed to control the heating of a block with nichrome during long-term operation of the device. For example, it can be a stationary professional hairdryer (used in hairdressing salons). When the coil reaches its maximum allowable temperature, the thermostat cuts off the power. After cooling, the contacts are turned back on.

Photo - nichrome spiral

Typical malfunctions of the Bosch LCD hair dryer (Bosch), Valera, Skil, Vitek, Scarlett (Scarlet) and others:

Smells burnt. The smell can come from the coil, which has gotten the hair as a result of careless handling, or from burning of the internal parts of the circuit;
Hair dryer does not turn on. The reason may be a breakdown of the engine, a broken power cord, a lack of voltage in the network;
Decreased work efficiency. The power of the device depends on the cleanliness of the filter installed on the back of the case. If it gets clogged, then the device will start to work with less efficiency;
The fan rotates very slowly. Most likely, something just bothers him;
Hair dryer Braun (Brown), Philips (Philips) or Rowenta (Roventa) does not heat up. There are several reasons why this happens: the cold air button is blocked, the spiral is broken, the circuit is damaged, the thermostat does not work.

Photo - model for drying hair

Before starting repairs, you need to know how to disassemble a Parlux, Saturn, Moser or Jaguar hairdryer yourself. There is nothing complicated in this, you just need an instruction and a screwdriver:

There are two bolts on the back of the body. They need to be unscrewed and carefully removed. In some cases, there are more of them, make sure that all fasteners are removed;
In parallel, you can also remove the cover from the top panel - there is a fan under it. Most often it is simply pressed against the body, so it comes out without problems if you pry it with a screwdriver;
Under the top panel of the case there is a mode switch and a cold air button. Several wires are installed on the panel. Which are connected to the pins of the circuit. For further disassembly, they will need to be removed;
Now you can remove the coil from the hair dryer head. It is necessary to act carefully, otherwise it may break, remove only after making sure that all fasteners have been removed;
Under the spiral, respectively, there is a motor. Most often there is no need to get it, because.almost all malfunctions will be noticeable immediately at the place where the motor is connected to the contacts of the heating element. An exception is the need to replace a part, then a major repair is made.

Consider how to make an independent repair of a hairdryer Babyliss, Rowenta Brush Activ, Bosh, Remington and others at home. First of all, you need to clean the fan and motor shaft from hair. A lot of them are collected there even after several months of intensive use. To do this, you need to remove the back top panel and cut the hair, then simply remove it with tweezers or fingers. In no case should you wipe the parts with a damp cloth - this will damage the contacts. This is done anyway, regardless of the problem.

Photo - fan

If it smells burnt, then you need to repair the spiral and filter. They can be cleaned with a dry soft brush. Just wipe the heater teeth and clean the filter. Be careful not to break the contacts during the cleaning process.

Photo - Cleaning

If the hair dryer does not turn on, then you need to check the power cable right away. Most often, it breaks at the base, because during operation, the hair dryer rotates many times in different directions along its axis. If everything is fine with him, then look at the contacts on the spiral. They can be 2, 3 or 4. When the device falls or hits, they sometimes get unsoldered, which causes the motor power to be cut off.

When the breakdown is related to the fan, it is as easy as shelling pears to repair the device. The first step is to check if the blades are intact. Of course, the efficiency of their work does not change too much from their state, but if cracks or notches are noticed, then it is better to immediately change the propeller. Then inspect the shaft. Sometimes small parts or other debris fall into the nozzle of the hair dryer, blocking the shaft, and it starts to spin slowly.

Now let's discuss the reasons why the spiral of dry warm air does not heat up with a professional Coifin, Steinel or Lukey hairdryer. As we said, there can be several reasons. For example, the cold air button is stuck. The principle of its operation is as follows: when you press the button, the contacts inside the case open, as a result of which the heating coil stops working. If it is open all the time, then the spiral simply cannot start heating. If the problem is not in the button itself, but in the contact, then you need to solder it yourself.

The cause of the breakdown may lie in the broken coil, its repair is a little more difficult to carry out than cleaning. In some models, it is made of low-quality material that breaks easily from impact. If some notches are missing on the base or mother-in-law is visible, it is replaced.

Video: how to repair a spiral in a hair dryer

This electrical appliance is very popular and is often indispensable in everyday life. When the hair dryer breaks down, you can contact the service center, or you can try to fix the hair dryer yourself. The accumulated repair experience indicates that breakdowns are most often eliminated without serious financial costs. To repair a hair dryer with your own hands, you need to know how it works and disassemble it correctly.

Any hair dryer has an impeller motor and a heater. The impeller sucks in air from one side of the hair dryer, after which it blows over the heater and comes out hot on the other side. Also, the hair dryer has a mode switch and elements to protect the heater from overheating.

In household hair dryers, the fan is assembled on a DC collector motor designed for a voltage of 12, 18, 24 or 36 volts (sometimes there are electric motors operating at an alternating voltage of 220 volts). A separate spiral is used to power the electric motor. The constant voltage is obtained from a diode bridge mounted on the terminals of the electric motor.

The hair dryer heater is a frame assembled from non-combustible and non-conductive plates, on which a nichrome spiral is wound.The spiral consists of several sections, depending on how many operating modes the hair dryer has.

This is how it looks:

The hot heater must be constantly cooled by the passing air stream. If the coil overheats, it may burn out or cause a fire. Therefore, the hair dryer is designed to automatically shut off when it overheats. A thermostat is used for this. This is a pair of normally closed contacts placed on a bimetallic plate. The thermostat is located on the heater closer to the outlet of the hair dryer and is constantly blown with hot air. If the air temperature exceeds the permissible, the bimetallic plate opens the contacts and the heating stops. After a few minutes, the thermostat cools down and closes the circuit again.

Sometimes a thermal fuse is also used as additional protection. It is disposable and burns out when a certain temperature is exceeded, after which it must be changed.

To better understand how the hair dryer works, you can watch these two videos (watch the first video from the 6th minute):

If there is power in the outlet, but the hairdryer does not work, carefully examine the appearance of the cord for repair: it may have been broken somewhere, frayed or cut. The most problematic places of the cord are considered to be the place of entry into the device body, as well as the point of connection with the electrical plug. If, apparently, no obvious reasons for the breakdown could be found, proceed to disassembling the case. It is not at all difficult to disassemble the case of the hair dryer with your own hands, the main thing is to find all the fasteners and unscrew them (they can be hidden behind stickers, rubber plugs, etc.).

When you get to the internal structure (pictured above), first look at where the electrical cord connects to the rest of the circuit. Very often, the motor does not start due to the fact that the wire falls off at the bonding point. If in your case everything is exactly like that, the repair can be completed with simple soldering or twisting of conductors.

Is the cord working, but the hairdryer still doesn't work? We carry out repairs further and check the rest of the chain elements. If you have a diagram of your device model, use the tester to ring out the remaining elements: fuse, switch and mode switch. It is not uncommon for a household electrical appliance to overheat and turn off due to a blown fuse. It needs to be replaced with exactly the same one in terms of characteristics.

By the way, the opposite situation happens - after turning on and drying the hair, the hair dryer does not turn off. This is also the fault of the switch itself!

Another malfunction - the power on / off button does not work. We have already described how to repair a light switch. The repair in this case is similar - check the break contacts with a tester, clean them to a metallic color, and if you cannot fix the breakage yourself, replace the switch. In the same way, check the mode switch, if the hair dryer does not switch speeds or does not regulate the temperature (for example, it does not work at 2 speeds), try to repair the regulator or perform a simple replacement.

Another type of breakdown is problems with a fan that does not accelerate. If the hair dryer does not work because the fan is not spinning, disassemble the case and see how clean the blades are. Sometimes the fan won't pick up speed because the hair is wrapped around it. For repairs, you just need to perform cleaning - remove the blades from the shaft, remove all debris and reinstall the fan in its seat.

You can see the repair process in more detail in the video instructions below. In some models of equipment, filters are installed, which also need to be cleaned.

By the way, if the fan smells of burning when you turn on the fan, then most likely the hair dryer stinks due to strong pollution. Very often, a thorough cleaning can help you solve the problem yourself at home with a minimum set of tools for an electrician!

Another equally popular malfunction is the burnout of the spiral, which is the main heating element. If your fan does not heat up or heats the air weakly, get to the spiral, ring it with a tester and make a visual inspection.You can try to repair a damaged heating element, but most often after repair (for example, joining a nichrome thread) several months pass and the hair dryer breaks down again. It is better to replace the spiral with a new one so that further damage does not occur.

Well, the last, most unpleasant breakdown is when the hair dryer does not work due to the engine burned out. In this case, during repair, you can only make sure with the help of a tester that it is the engine that is faulty. In addition, a burning smell and sparks in the fan area can be considered signs of breakdown. You are unlikely to be able to repair the device yourself, so it is better to either replace the engine or take the device to a service center.

That's all that I wanted to tell you about what to do if the hair dryer does not work and how to repair it yourself if the fan, switch or engine breaks down. We hope that the provided instruction was useful and interesting for you. By the way, an industrial model (construction) can be repaired using the same instructions in the pictures. In fact, the construction hair dryer is similar in design, only it is more protected externally and has more powerful parts inside!

Related materials:

Today, rarely a woman can do without a hair dryer. But unfortunately, finding a good hair dryer now is a very difficult task, they often fail. Fortunately, thanks to its primitive design, repairing a hair dryer with your own hands is not particularly difficult, even at home.

Almost all hair dryers have a similar design. It consists of a body in which the rest of the parts are located - a switch, a motor combined with an impeller and a heater. Power enters the device through the power cord, then it goes to the switch, which has several operating positions. From it, the voltage goes to the electric motor and to the heating element.

Since the motors used in hair dryers are low-voltage (designed for voltages from 12 to 36 V), direct current, and in our network we have 220-250 V AC, the current supplied to the motor passes through a special spiral located in the heating element ... After passing the spiral, the voltage drops to the required one, but the current remains variable, so it goes to the diode bridge, where it is straightened and only after that it gets to the electric motor, forcing it to rotate the impeller.

The heating element is a nichrome wire, twisted into a spiral and fixed on a frame made of heat-resistant material. There can be several such spirals in a heating element. This is necessary in order to be able to change the temperature of the air flow by switching modes.

The hair dryer also has two degrees of thermal protection. The first is implemented in the form of a thermostat located in the break in the supply wire and located at the outlet of the heater. When a certain temperature is reached, it opens the circuit, turning off the device. After cooling down, it closes the circuit, restoring the device to work. If the thermostat for some reason did not work, and the temperature continues to rise, the second stage is activated in the form of a thermal fuse in the open circuit, which burns out, and the device turns off. Unlike a thermostat, a thermal fuse is a disposable part and needs to be replaced after it is triggered.

In this drawing, you can see where certain parts are located:

3. - switch of operating modes;

6. - the frame of the heating element;

8. - heating element (spiral);

The principle of operation of a hair dryer is disgracefully simple: the air is sucked in through the intake holes by the impeller and driven through the heating element, where its temperature rises to the level set by the selected operating mode. Then a stream of hot air passes through the nozzle and hits your hair.

But for a complete understanding of the principle of work, one drawing is not enough. In addition to him, we need a schematic diagram of a hair dryer.

In the future, when considering faults, we will refer specifically to her.

Frequent breakdowns

Due to the simple design and the fact that it appeared a long time ago (in the 1950s), a huge amount of statistics on breakdowns has accumulated over the entire period of operation, and all possible malfunctions of the hair dryer are now well known. You do not have to deal with diagnostics and repairs for a long time, everything together will take you a maximum of 1 hour.

Malfunctions and remedies

For simplicity and convenience, we will compile a list of faults / ways to eliminate them, which we will refer to when diagnosing. The designations of the elements indicated in the schematic diagram are given in brackets. If nothing is written after the "/", then you need to replace the faulty element with a working one.

1. Open or short in the power cord / replace the cord, or after cutting out the problem area, connect the wire and insulate it well.

2. Breakdown of a capacitor (C1) or resistor (R1) /.

3. Faulty thermostat (F2) or thermal fuse (F1) /.

4. Broken switch (SW1) /.

5. Failure of the cold air button (SB1) / replace it with a good one. When replacing, note that this button is normally closed and is openable. If you don't need it, you can disconnect the wires from it and connect them together.

6. Breakdown of rectifier diodes (VD1 - VD4) /.

7. Faulty smoothing capacitors (C2, C3) /.

8. Hair is wrapped around the motor shaft and is jammed / cut off the hair with a utility knife or scalpel. Be careful not to damage the impeller.

9. The grease on the motor bearings has dried / wash them off the old grease with a solvent filled into a syringe with a needle, and lubricate the bearings with liquid silicone grease.

11. Breakage in nichrome spirals (H1 - H3) / if the break is not visually noticeable, disassemble and carefully scrape the terminals with a knife through which it connects to the wires and assemble them back. If this does not help, or the break is visible to the naked eye, replace the spiral with a similar resistance.

12. Closing the spirals (H1 - H3) with each other / if the heater frame is intact, change the spirals for new ones, if you find damage to the frame and you don’t have the same one for replacement, postpone the repair until better times or throw away the hair dryer.

13. The heating element is heavily soiled / disconnect it from the wires and soak it in a solution of detergent. After 2 hours, brush it with a toothbrush, rinse it under running water and attach it back. Remember to dry it thoroughly before installing it in your hair dryer.

14. The fan impeller has collapsed / replace it with a suitable one. Glue or soldering will not help here, as you will not be able to center the impeller well and it will quickly break due to the resulting vibrations.

Note that all items in the list are arranged in diagnostic order.

In order not to rack your brains over how to disassemble a hairdryer, you need to prepare for this in advance. Manufacturers are trying to complicate the disassembly of their products by using screws with a non-standard (pitchfork, asterisk, triangle) notch and hiding them under stickers and plugs. Before disassembling, make sure you have a screwdriver with replacement bits, and that the set contains the bits you need.

Remove all caps and stickers from the housing before loosening the screws. After you have unscrewed all the screws, you can try to carefully separate the halves of the case using a plastic card (you can use any object convenient for you. It is important that it is plastic. Metal can damage the detachable parts). If the halves won't budge, make sure you haven't missed any well-hidden screw.After making sure that there are no countersunk screws, apply more force and release the latches holding the housing.

Diagnostics and repair actions

Now let's take a look at the repair steps you will need to take. To do this, we will again make a list, but this time, the symptoms of the malfunction will be indicated first, and after the "/" - the numbers of the items from the list of malfunctions that need to be checked. Items must be checked in the order in which they are listed.

1. Poorly switching modes / 4.

2. The hair dryer works in a stationary state, but as soon as you pick it up, it starts to junk / 1, 4, 11, 12.

3. When connected to the network, the circuit breakers are triggered at the entrance to the apartment / 1, 2.

4. Heating is in progress, but the impeller does not work, there is no air flow / 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

5. There is only cold air, other modes do not work / 4, 5, 11, 12.

6. The impeller spins slowly, the air flow is weak, and the hair dryer makes a lot of noise during operation / 8, 9.

7. Smells burnt during operation, although otherwise everything is fine / 13.

8. Strong vibration is observed and extraneous sounds are heard, there is no air flow, or it is very weak / 14.

It also happens that a hairdryer does not show any signs of life when plugged into an outlet. In this case, you need to carry out a complete diagnosis.

For this we need a multimeter, we cannot do without it. Before work, de-energize the hairdryer and switch the multimeter to the diode continuity mode (in this mode, when a short circuit is detected, the buzzer is triggered).

First check the power cord by ringing each core from the plug to the capacitor C1, then proceed to check the elements C1 and R1. None of them should be closed. Then check thermal fuse F1 and thermostat F2. In a normal state, they are closed, an open circuit indicates their malfunction. The next thing to check is switch SW1. Switch it to the hottest air supply mode and ring the conclusions among themselves. If there are no breaks and the contact does not disappear, then everything is in order with the switch. Also note that elements L1 and L2 should not be open-ended.

We turn to the rectifier diodes VD1 - VD4 and the diode VD5. They should ring only in one direction, if the diode passes current in both directions, or is in an open circuit - it is faulty. After checking the smoothing capacitors C2 and C3 (the presence of a short circuit in them indicates their failure), you can work on the M1 motor, for this switch the multimeter to the resistance measurement mode. If there is an open or short circuit between the motor terminals (for such motors, the minimum resistance is 5 ohms), it is faulty.

Now you can tackle the spirals H1 - H3. When checking them, you need to touch the probes not with the spirals themselves, but with the wires entering the connecting terminals, otherwise you may not notice poor contact in the terminals themselves. If the resistances of the spirals do not differ much from those indicated in the schematic diagram, then everything is in order. Less resistance indicates a short circuit between the spirals, and more indicates poor contact at the terminals. Endless resistance speaks of a break.

It remains only to check the SB1 button (a working button must be closed), and the diagnosis can be considered complete. Now you need to eliminate the detected breakdowns using the methods from the list of faults. After that, you just have to assemble the hair dryer, performing the disassembly steps in the reverse order and that's it, the repair is complete.

Test the hairdryer by plugging it in. Next, we look at the situation: - all functions work fine, so you did everything right; - the hair dryer does not work as it should, or does not turn on at all - look for where you made a mistake, and after finding it, fix it.

P. S .: The article was written to order, but we did not get along a bit with the customer. He insisted that the article meet all the requirements of search engines and give a good position in the search results. I insisted that the article should also benefit the readers. The customer gave a lot of moronic keys with which the article turned into a dick understand what.

As a result, the customer was sent to fuck, and now you see the article in front of you)

I really hope that it will be useful to you and my work will not be in vain.

A hair dryer consists of a motor, a fan, heating elements, an electrical circuit that makes the elements work in concert. Depending on the number of modes, the manufacturer, the element base, appearance, and the composition of the switches are different. But nothing more complicated than a semiconductor thyristor will not be inside. Therefore, we will carry out home repair of hair dryers with our own hands.

The body is held in place by screws. The heads are often of a non-standard design. This is a plus sign, an asterisk, a pitchfork. Therefore, first of all, before fixing the hair dryer, let's take care of a tool that can cope with such a task. Fortunately, a set of bits costs 600 rubles today.

Sometimes the case flaps are additionally fastened together with special latches. This is a separate problem: experienced craftsmen often break plastic, desperate to cope with civilized methods. There are no subtleties, they come up with hidden screws hidden under stickers, plastic inserts, removable regulator caps. The fasteners are fictitious. There are no useful functions.

The hair dryer motor is powered by direct current 12, 24, 36 V. To rectify the mains voltage, a diode bridge is used, in cheap models - a single diode. The filtering of power harmonics is carried out by a capacitor connected in parallel to the motor windings or as part of a more complex filter. Inductors are rarely used in hair dryers due to their exorbitant mass. Therefore, knowledge of the principles of smoothing pulsations with RC-chains is enough to cope with the construction of a schematic diagram of a hair dryer being repaired. Sometimes a single coil (inductance) is used by the filter element.

The hair dryer switch simultaneously closes the circuit through which the spirals will be powered, starts the motor. Further schematic of the intervention is determined by the complexity:

only the rotation speed or only the temperature is regulated;
the ability to select heating and air flow rate separately.

In most models of hair dryers, in parallel, there is protection against turning on the heaters when the motor is inactive. Protects the spiral.

Optionally available thermostat in the form of a special resistance or other sensitive element. Let's describe the breakdowns encountered by the faithful helpers of the beautiful half of humanity.

If the device is devoid of signs of life, it is unstable, the inspection begins with the power circuit. The repair of Rowenta hair dryers is schematically described below.

Attention! The described types of work require skills in handling electrical appliances. The authors disclaim responsibility for damage to health, property, arising from attempts to follow the recommendations given for repairing hair dryers.

Inspection of the power cord begins with a socket. There is a part of the malfunction: there is no voltage - the hair dryer does not work. If there is voltage in the outlet, the inspection of the cord begins with the entry point into the case, walk towards the plug. Work is performed on a de-energized device. A visual search for fractures and irregular formations - burners, insulation damage, fractures is carried out.

Then the case of the hair dryer is disassembled. Inside you have a chance to see the options for electrical resistance:

A pair of detachable contacts.
Soldering.
The wiring is sealed in plastic caps.

The last element of the list characterizes a non-separable connection, therefore, the case for testing is too complicated. Skillful hands, or rather, smart heads, Ukrainian brothers in mind are advised to use an ordinary needle to repair a hair dryer. Those who immediately grasp the train of thought will skip the next paragraph, start testing directly.

Do-it-yourself hair dryer repair begins with a continuity of the wiring. A Chinese tester, a light bulb, an indicator will do. A needle is attached to one terminal, which is then inserted into the power core in the area of the cap through the insulation to copper. The second terminal probes the legs of the plug. The call goes through for both cores.It is not worth doing more than 1 puncture per core when repairing a hair dryer (some will try to look for a breakage as well), since the nature of the operation involves the ingress of moisture from wet hair.

Even a child can ring the wire, having visually distinguishable docking points in front of his eyes. If damage is found, it is recommended to buy a new cord fitted with a non-separable plug. The likelihood of moisture ingress imposes restrictions on the choice of insulation of conductive parts used to repair a hair dryer.

Cases are common: the first glance reveals the place of damage to the cord entrance into the case. Slabs, carbon deposits, black insulation indicate the location of the fault.

At the junction with the body of the hair dryer, there is a vulnerable point of the wiring. The hostess takes the delicate device by the cord, shakes it from side to side, winds the cable around the handle. A vein with a crack sparks, the insulation heats up, burns out, the copper melts. This is the mechanism of damage to copper conductors.

When updating, it is useful to short-circuit the switch, check: the hair dryer will change the behavior radically in response to an uncomplicated step. There are three-position switches, each position in a short-circuited state is checked separately. Remember, sketch out the original wire layout before you start fixing the hair dryer.

Checking the speed, temperature switches uses a similar circuit.

Examine the defective element identified during the restoration of the hair dryer. The carbon deposits are cleaned off with a file, sandpaper, eraser. The contacts are wiped with alcohol. Defective components are replaced with equivalents. A radical method is to short-circuit the power button while searching for suitable components.

Relatively often, the air duct is clogged with a hair dryer. It is necessary to remove the filter, if any, and clean it thoroughly. Remove dust from crevices with a soft brush.

Lack of blade rotation or low rpm is often observed when the hair is coiled around the motor shaft. The propeller must be carefully removed from the shaft, in every possible way avoiding unnecessary efforts and distortions. After that, foreign objects are removed.

A hair dryer usually has several heating elements. Visually, they should all look uniform. Make sure of this when fixing the hair dryer by opening the case. The detected breaks are eliminated by twisting the ends, soldering and tinning. You can also get some thin copper tubes and squeeze the ends of the broken spiral inward.

We observe defects in heating elements during repairs visually. A close inspection will tell you how to fix your hair dryer. Replacing spirals with similar purchased or homemade products made of nichrome wire is effective.

The electric motor of the hair dryer can be powered by both direct current and alternating current. If the diode bridge is burned out, the windings are damaged, normal functioning is impaired. A terrible crackle and sparks when turned on indicate a malfunction of the motor.

The motor windings are desoldered when repairing the hair dryer from the electrical circuit. Find a pair for each wire that rings. The conclusions are connected in threes, none should hang in the air. Replacement of the winding when repairing a hair dryer is carried out only in a workshop. However, folk craftsmen shake not worse than machine tools. Those who wish will try.

If the windings are in good working order, the brushes are examined, the copper surface under them is cleaned, and the tightness is estimated.

The axis should rotate freely. When repairing a hair dryer, it will not hurt to lubricate the rubbing surfaces, manually break in problem areas.

The getinax backing sometimes cracks, tearing the track. Tin the damaged area, lightly cover with solder.

Broken capacitors swell slightly. The top face of the cylinder contains shallow slots, when the product breaks, the sidewall inflates, bending outward. Replace such a capacitor first if you find a characteristic defect.

Burnt-out resistors darken. Some remain operational, it is advisable to replace such a radio element.

Some hair dryers are self-regulating. The effect is achieved by using a resistive divider, one arm of which is an element that responds to temperature. Further actions are determined by the parameter control implementation scheme. We recommend:

eliminate the sensor altogether by breaking the circuit, try the device's reaction;
short-circuit the wires after that, turn on, see what happens.

There is a great chance of failure if the device is trained to respond only to a fixed resistance value. It remains to look for a schematic diagram on the Internet or draw it yourself.

Repairing professional hair dryers is more difficult. Structural elements are often complemented by smooth controls and additional options such as the Care button. The spirals are made of special alloys that create negative ions when heated, which have a beneficial effect on the hair. The technique remains the same:

cord;
switches and buttons;
dust removal;
spirals;
motor;
visual inspection of capacitors, resistors.

Before repairing it, it is advisable to get a schematic diagram.

Industrial models are not much different from household ones. But drying your hair is not recommended. Such products are distinguished by their increased resistance to dust, shock, vibration, humidity, and other climatic factors. Home restoration of industrial hair dryers will not end well.

Video (click to play).

Electric radio products used in household models are not suitable for use in harsh environments. Requirements apply to wires, power cord, motor and coils.