VIDEO
REPLACING THE BRAKE DISC OF THE FRONT WHEEL BRAKE
You will need: Allen key "7", flat-blade screwdriver, TORX T30 wrench.
Volkswagen Golf 5
VW Golf 5 2004->: (rus.) Device and features. Self-study program
Volkswagen Golf Plus
Volkswagen Golf Plus 2005 (rus.) Information about the Golf Plus device. It describes the features of the body, the combination of engine and gearbox aggregation, the features of the front and rear suspensions, the architecture of the electronics and changes in the comfort systems.
Volkswagen New Jetta 2006 (Volkswagen Jetta 2006 model year)
Volkswagen Jetta 2006 (rus.) Design and description of the model. Self-study program. Body, Passive safety systems, Powertrain, Transmission, Chassis, Electrical equipment, Heating and climate control, Radio and navigation system.
Winter came and made itself felt. When I put the dvigun, at the same time I washed all two radiators with Karcher, washed and blew it out, there was not so much dirt, but there was flies, fluff. And somehow even more fun [. ]
Regardless of which car is at the disposal of the driver, it must be remembered that the guarantee of the durability of the correct operation of the fuel system directly depends on its timely maintenance and replacement of consumables. If we consider the car Volkswagen Jetta, then [. ]
This photo report shows in detail how to change the brake fluid on a Volkswagen Jetta 5 with your own hands. In principle, the procedure for picking up the brake fluid is not complicated. This will require the most common set of tools, a new brake [. ]
Once again, following a long familiar route to work, I am faced with the problem that the car next to me blinks its headlights in order to make way for it (as I thought). I concede, I notice what is ahead [. ]
This photo report describes in detail the procedure for removing the CV joint and replacing the boot with a new one in a Volkswagen Jetta 5. In our case, there was a torn boot on the CV joint. It was decided to replace him, since the torn [. ]
Antifreeze is an antifreeze process fluid designed to cool a running Volkswagen Jetta engine at an external temperature from + 40C to -30..60C. The boiling point of antifreeze is about + 110C. The function of antifreeze also includes lubrication of internal [. ]
We carry out all types of engine repairs for the Volkswagen Jetta 5th generation sedan 4-door, from partial repair of units to engine overhaul.
Partial overhaul of the engine Volkswagen Jetta 5th generation sedan 4-door. usually does not involve the removal of the engine and its subsequent installation, which significantly reduces the cost of repairs.
Such repairs include:
replacement of the cylinder head gasket,
replacement of the high pressure fuel pump,
replacement of valve stem seals,
replacement of valves,
replacement of elements of the gas distribution mechanism and the exhaust system.
The cost of such repairs varies depending on the remanufactured or replaced mechanisms of the Volkswagen Jetta engine.
PROMOTION UNTIL MAY 31!
A large number of car enthusiasts choose the Volkswagen Jetta 5 because for a reasonable price you get a reliable car with good build quality and good equipment. But how reliable the golf-class sedan turned out to be, and whether it is worth considering the option of purchasing a Volkswagen Jetta with mileage, now let's try to figure it out.
The fifth generation Jetta was produced from 2005 to 2010 in two modifications in the sedan and station wagon bodies; in the CIS, only cars in the sedan body were officially sold. As experience has shown in general, the paintwork does not cause any special complaints, and the metal has good corrosion resistance, but despite the fact that the body is completely galvanized, weak points were still identified. When inspecting the car, carefully inspect the thresholds, the lower part of the front fender near the door and the lower part of the door, due to the fact that excess moisture accumulates under the mudguard, these parts begin to bloom, even small bugs will soon lead to big problems.Also, the joint between the rear wheel arch and the bumper is considered to be a weak point of the body; chips often appear at this junction, and then corrosion.
During the life of the fifth generation Volkswagen Jetta, there were three gasoline engines and two turbodiesel engines:
Aspirated MPI 1.6 (102 and 115 hp)
Turbo engine TSI 1.4 (122 and 140 hp)
Two liter FSI engine (150 HP) and TFSI (200 HP)
TDI 1.9 (105 HP) and 2 liters (140 HP)
Car enthusiasts are often confused in the multiple letter designations of power units, in fact, they differ from each other by the presence or absence of a turbine, as well as an injection system. The weakest motor of 102 horsepower on a run of 70 - 80 thousand km often begins to howl a timing belt roller. If the previous owner fueled the car with low-quality fuel closer to 100,000, it will be necessary to replace the fuel injectors, it is worth noting that such repairs are not cheap. TSI and TFSI engines are high-tech and provide excellent dynamics and low fuel consumption, with intensive use they can easily take care of 250 - 300 thousand km. But if you plan to use the car infrequently or for short-distance travel, then you should not consider a car with such a motor if you do not want to know what an open timing chain is, burned-out pistons, stuck rings and a tripping engine that is not running.
Diesel engines have established themselves as reliable and unpretentious units in maintenance, and if they are filled with good diesel fuel, they will serve you faithfully for 300 - 350 thousand km. If you want to buy a car with a two-liter diesel engine, then consider a car after 2008, since before that time nozzles with a pump were installed, which often fail, and their replacement and repair are not cheap, after 2008 the manufacturer eliminated this problem.
Three types of gearboxes are available on the Volkswagen Jetta, five and six-speed manuals, a six-speed automatic and a robotic DSG gearbox. DSG robotic boxes are often called the sore spot of Volkswagen cars and Skoda , indeed, the robot may not start working correctly with a run of 50,000 km. When driving in traffic jams, the service life of the DSG transmission is significantly reduced, so if you plan to buy a car with a robotic transmission, avoid cars that were operated in a metropolis, (repair of a robotic box will cost about 1000 USD .).
A six-speed automatic with a run of 150,000 km may experience jerks when the reverse gear is engaged (valve block replacement is required, repair will cost about 500 USD .). In a manual transmission, with a run of 100,000 km, it will be necessary to replace the clutch and release bearing, and the input shaft bearing often fails during this run.
Volkswagen Jetta, although built on the same platform with Volkswagen Golf but has different chassis settings. The suspension of the car is quite soft, but at the same time the car confidently keeps the given trajectory, and if you do not get carried away with driving on a bad road at high speed, the first repairs will be needed after 50,000 km. The suspension of the Volkswagen Jetta can be safely called quite reliable, and if instead of a multi-link a beam was installed at the rear, the suspension could be safely called very reliable, but the ride and handling would be completely different. The levers that are flimsy in front and behind cannot be called flimsy, and if you carefully operate the car, they will last more than 150,000 km, silent blocks, stabilizer struts, shock absorbers take care of up to 100,000 km, brake pads last 70 - 80 thousand km, discs are almost twice as long. The steering rack has a small resource and can start knocking at a run of 100,000 km, this problem is often eliminated by pulling up.
Volkswagen Jetta is a quiet family car, and quite often cars were bought in corporate parking lots. If we consider the purchase of such a car on the secondary market, then the best option would be a car with a naturally aspirated 1.6 engine paired with an automatic transmission or mechanics.
Advantages:
Galvanized body.
Comfortable and comfortable fit.
Moderately stiff suspension.
The quality of the interior finishing materials.
Affordable price.
Robotic transmission.
The thresholds are rotting.
Problems with the chassis after 80-90 thousand km.
If you are or were the owner of this car brand, please share your experience, indicating the strengths and weaknesses of the car. Perhaps it is your feedback that will help others to choose the right one. choose a used car .
Repair and maintenance of Volkswagen Golf 2, Jetta. Volkswagen Golf II, Jetta (from 1983 to 1992 of release)
The Volkswagen Golf II was put into mass production in 1983, but for some time, the first generation of prestigious versions with more powerful gasoline engines were produced with it. For example, the Volkswagen Golf I GTI was the last to be discontinued. And the convertible based on the first generation continued to be produced for about twenty years, and ceased production only in the middle of the last decade of the twentieth century, having previously demonstrated a new convertible based on the third generation.
Golf II, similar to the "one", began to be produced only in the form of a hatchback, three-door or five-door. The sedan, which made itself known only a year later, was traditionally called the Jetta, or rather the Jetta II. The engines have largely remained unchanged and remain the same, namely: gasoline and diesel, with a power range from 55 to 129 hp. At the factory, the car was equipped with a four-speed gearbox, if desired, it was possible to order a 5-speed "mechanics" or a three-band "automatic".
At first, the cars had only front-wheel drive, and only by 1986 all-wheel drive versions of Syncro appeared on the market of proposals. In 1990, the most interesting and exotic version of the "second" was born - Volkswagen Golf Country, with a spar frame, all-wheel drive, wide ground clearance and stylish "kenguryatniki". It was a rare, technically sophisticated vehicle than the regular Golf, and is difficult to come across today.
In the same period, "road" sports modifications such as the Volkswagen Golf G60 with a 1.8-liter 160-horsepower compressor engine were produced. Those units that have leaked to us are no longer pleasing to the eye of an expert, since due to the presence of a powerful engine, there is a stronger wear of the transmission and body. And that's why a well-maintained Golf G60 costs almost as much as a new Golf in its home country.
The Volkswagen Golf II has been in production for about ten years and the last models were released in 1992. And in August 1991, a new car rolled off the assembly line, already of the third generation - the Golf III.
The manual provides pictures and descriptions showing the function of the various parts and their locations. The works are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a beginner can complete them.
Gasoline engines:
Year of issue: 2007
We continue to put BC Racing propellers on the Jetta. I already managed to tell about the front suspension, today we will deal with the rear one. She on Jetta and Golf of the fifth generation is multi-link and consists of a shock absorber and a separate spring.Both with height adjustment.
To install, we need about the same inventory as in the first part, namely:
a good set of tools (ratchet, crank, different heads);
jack;
car stands;
bent box spanner 16-17;
hand vise or pliers;
torque wrench.
Before starting, lift the rear of the car and place it on the stands, remove both rear wheels in one.
We start by unscrewing the two bolts of the upper mounting of the shock absorber to the body. It is convenient to put an extension on the ratchet.
Next, we prop up the lower arm with a jack. We unscrew the bolt securing the lever to the hub with a key of 18.
Carefully lower the jack down, thereby unclamping the spring. If the machine is raised on the stands high enough, then by lowering the lever to the very bottom, we can safely pull out the spring.
We unscrew the bolt securing the shock absorber to the hub and remove the shock absorber itself.
This completes the removal of the standard suspension. However, in order to install a new shock absorber, the upper body mount must be removed from the old one. Unfortunately, I do not have a photo of this action, but this is done like this: holding the stem with a hand vice, unscrew the nut that holds the mount with a 16 bent key with a bent key. We remove the mount and put it on the stem of the new shock absorber, screwing it with a 17 nut that comes with the kit. This time, to hold the stem, you need to insert a hexagon into its end. Tighten the nut to 45 Nm. As a result, it should look like this:
Now we are assembling the spring structure. This is what it consists of (top to bottom):
standard rubber gasket on the stock spring;
threaded adjusting support;
plastic gasket;
spring;
new rubber gasket included with screws.
I draw your attention to the fact that the threaded adjusting support must be placed exactly on top of the spring. If you do the opposite, you will not be able to adjust the height. Another point - instead of an adjusting support, you can put a support washer (in the photo it is in a bag), it will give about -1 cm more from the lowest position. But I didn't need it, because with a complete understatement, the backside is visually lower than before.
Next comes the reassembly. We fasten the shock absorber to the hub, then insert the entire spring structure into the lever, after removing the old rubber gasket from it. We lift the lever with the spring and fasten it back to the hub with a bolt and nut. And finally, we fasten the shock absorber to the body with two bolts.
We take a torque wrench and tighten everything that we twisted with the following efforts:
shock absorber nut - 45 Nm;
shock absorber lower bolt - 180 Nm;
shock absorber upper bolts - 45 Nm + 90º;
lever bolt - 90 Nm + 90º;
Since there is height adjustment both on the spring and on the shock absorber, you need to adjust the height together. How exactly the height on the spring and on the shock absorber should correlate is not said in the instructions. I did this: I unscrewed the spring to the lowest position, and the shock absorber "shortened" as much as possible due to the thread. Already from this position, you can simultaneously raise the height both there and there. But the question is, is it necessary? 😉
Well, this completes the installation of the suspension. You can breathe a sigh of relief, clap your hands and be pleasantly surprised at the new look of your car.
I apologize that there are no “before / after” photos in the post, but alas, that’s the way things are so far. I promise that the result can be viewed in my thread on the forum this week.
Thank you all, do not be afraid to pick your expensive cars, and do not listen to anyone. Good luck.
We continue to put BC Racing propellers on the Jetta. I already managed to tell about the front suspension, today we will deal with the rear one. She on Jetta and Golf of the fifth generation is multi-link and consists of a shock absorber and a separate spring. Both with height adjustment.
To install, we need about the same inventory as in the first part, namely:
a good set of tools (ratchet, crank, different heads);
jack;
car stands;
bent box spanner 16-17;
hand vise or pliers;
torque wrench.
Before starting, lift the rear of the car and place it on the stands, remove both rear wheels in one.
We start by unscrewing the two bolts of the upper mounting of the shock absorber to the body. It is convenient to put an extension on the ratchet.
Next, we prop up the lower arm with a jack. We unscrew the bolt securing the lever to the hub with a key of 18.
Carefully lower the jack down, thereby unclamping the spring. If the machine is raised on the stands high enough, then by lowering the lever to the very bottom, we can safely pull out the spring.
We unscrew the bolt securing the shock absorber to the hub and remove the shock absorber itself.
This completes the removal of the standard suspension. However, in order to install a new shock absorber, the upper body mount must be removed from the old one. Unfortunately, I do not have a photo of this action, but this is done like this: holding the stem with a hand vice, unscrew the nut that holds the mount with a 16 bent key with a bent key. We remove the mount and put it on the stem of the new shock absorber, screwing it with a 17 nut that comes with the kit. This time, to hold the stem, you need to insert a hexagon into its end. Tighten the nut to 45 Nm. As a result, it should look like this:
Now we are assembling the spring structure. This is what it consists of (top to bottom):
standard rubber gasket on the stock spring;
threaded adjusting support;
plastic gasket;
spring;
new rubber gasket included with screws.
I draw your attention to the fact that the threaded adjusting support must be placed exactly on top of the spring. If you do the opposite, you will not be able to adjust the height. Another point - instead of an adjusting support, you can put a support washer (in the photo it is in a bag), it will give about -1 cm more from the lowest position. But I didn't need it, because with a complete understatement, the backside is visually lower than before.
Next comes the reassembly. We fasten the shock absorber to the hub, then insert the entire spring structure into the lever, after removing the old rubber gasket from it. We lift the lever with the spring and fasten it back to the hub with a bolt and nut. And finally, we fasten the shock absorber to the body with two bolts.
We take a torque wrench and tighten everything that we twisted with the following efforts:
shock absorber nut - 45 Nm;
shock absorber lower bolt - 180 Nm;
shock absorber upper bolts - 45 Nm + 90º;
lever bolt - 90 Nm + 90º;
Since there is height adjustment both on the spring and on the shock absorber, you need to adjust the height together. How exactly the height on the spring and on the shock absorber should correlate is not said in the instructions. I did this: I unscrewed the spring to the lowest position, and the shock absorber "shortened" as much as possible due to the thread. Already from this position, you can simultaneously raise the height both there and there. But the question is, is it necessary? 😉
Well, this completes the installation of the suspension. You can breathe a sigh of relief, clap your hands and be pleasantly surprised at the new look of your car.
I apologize that there are no “before / after” photos in the post, but alas, that’s the way things are so far. I promise that the result can be viewed in my thread on the forum this week.
Thank you all, do not be afraid to pick your expensive cars, and do not listen to anyone. Good luck.
Volkswagen Jetta is a compact class C car, built on the basis of Volkswagen Golf. Possessing a common technical base, cars also have similar operational features.
In the arsenal of Jetta V petrol engines 1.6 l 102 hp. and 115 hp, 1.4 TSI 122 and 140 hp, 2.0 L 150 hp and 2.0 TFSI 200 hp. Turbodiesels 1.9 TDI 105 hp were also installed. and 2.0 TDI 140 hp. Overseas Volkswagen Jetta were equipped with an aspirated 2.5 L 150 hp. In Russia, the most common engines are 1.6 L (102 HP), 1.4 TSI (122 HP) and 1.9 TDI (105 HP).
The 1.6 BSE / BSF petrol unit has a timing belt drive with a replacement interval of 90 thousand km.But some services recommend that you carefully examine the condition of the belt already at a run of 60 thousand km. As practice shows, the belt by this time can already be worn out. The cost of a timing drive kit from dealers is about 5-6 thousand rubles, analogues can be purchased at an auto parts store for 3 thousand rubles.
A feature of the 1.6 liter engine is slight vibration when idling and unpleasant sounds from the exhaust system when starting a cold engine. With a mileage of more than 60 - 100 thousand km, problems appear with normal starting and engine stability at idle. The main reason for this is the failed fuel injectors. Cleaning the injectors does not return to life, the engine can be "cured" only after replacing them. Dealers offer a set of new nozzles for 35-37 thousand rubles.
1.4 TSI engines with a mileage of more than 50 thousand km can begin to "rattle" the first seconds after starting. The reason is the failure of the phase regulator. There are frequent cases when, after replacing the phase regulator, the rattle appeared again after 20-30 thousand km of run.
On 1.9 TDI turbodiesels, the so-called "overflow effect" is often encountered - the thrust suddenly disappears. This is especially unpleasant when overtaking. There are several reasons: turbine “caking”, failure of the boost control valve or the electric vacuum boost valve control relay.
Due to the failure of the engine support with a run of more than 100 - 120 thousand km, knocks may appear in the front of the car. The source of the knock is difficult to diagnose, and many believe that the cause is in the front suspension.
Jetta's engines were aggregated with 5 and 6-speed "mechanics", 6-speed "automatic" and a gearbox with direct gear shifting DSG.
On cars with manual transmission, with a mileage of more than 80 - 120 thousand km, noise or "rattling" may appear, which can be heard from the left side of the car. The reason lies in the input shaft bearing, release bearing or clutch. There is no unequivocal answer to the question of who is to blame and what to do. The manufacturer recommends replacing the release bearing and clutch in such cases. The cost of work with dealers with components is about 17-20 thousand rubles. At the same time, there is no guarantee that the "tarakhtun" will not come to life after a while.
6-speed automatic gearbox 09G with a mileage of more than 100 - 120 thousand km may require replacement of the valve block. The harbinger of impending disaster will be jerks when turning on the reverse gear. Later, there are shocks when shifting gears and slipping. The cost of the new unit is about 50 thousand rubles, and the work on its replacement will cost 5 thousand rubles.
The automatic DSG 6 Volkswagen Jetta V was completed until the end of 2009, later they began to install DSG 7. DSG 6 turned out to be more reliable than the updated DSG 7. More often, owners complain of metallic clanking, vibrations and dots when shifting gears and slipping. Problems appear when the mileage is more than 30-60 thousand km. Dealers, on the manufacturer's recommendation, replace the clutch and update the transmission control program.
The struts of the front stabilizer and support bearings of the front struts travel more than 100 - 130 thousand km. Hub bearings begin to "howl" when the mileage is over 100 - 140 thousand km. With the same mileage, the front shock absorbers will also need to be replaced. The cost of new ones from dealers is about 8 thousand rubles, analogues in a spare parts store can be purchased for 2.5-4 thousand rubles.
With a run of more than 60 - 100 thousand km, the steering rack can knock. The new rail will cost 30 thousand rubles, and the work on its replacement - about 6 thousand rubles. But you should not rush to replace it. Often you can do without pulling (adjusting) the rail.
Due to a constructive flaw, when the mileage is more than 100 - 140 thousand km, the rear calipers begin to knock. Packing the guides with grease helps a little. After replacing the guides themselves, the knock often reappears soon.
In general, the body paintwork does not cause great claims.The chrome-plated emblem on the radiator grill and chrome on the grille itself, after 3-4 years of operation, begins to warp and climb.
In winter, melted ice or snow from the windshield flows down the drainage channels to the pillar and forms an ice plug between the pillar, fender liner and the door. When opened, the door rests on the ice plug and the outer door panel may deform. To prevent "troubles", dealers, on the recommendation of the manufacturer, install a drainage system and foam inserts.
Problems with door locks appear after 3-4 years of vehicle operation. The reason for the failure of the lock motor or "mikrika". Dealers offer a new lock for 7-8 thousand rubles, "on the side" a new lock will cost 5 thousand rubles. Problems with locks also arise due to the "breaking" of wires in the protective corrugation. For the same reason, the power windows may not work properly.
Headlights and taillights are often problematic on 2010 Jets. Glasses of headlights from temperature changes begin to crack. And the diodes of the rear lights stop glowing. Dealers will replace faulty lighting fixtures under warranty. The cost of the rear light is about 3-4 thousand rubles.
The interior of the Volkswagen Jetta can creak over time. The main problem areas are the plastic trim of the front doors, the dashboard and the plastic trim on the outside at the bottom of the windshield.
The need to replace the air conditioner compressor can be encountered with a mileage of more than 100 - 140 thousand km. A new compressor will cost 15-30 thousand rubles. Flushing the system will require about 10-15 thousand rubles more, and work on its replacement - about 5 thousand rubles.
The whistling of a climate fan with the onset of cold weather is a common phenomenon. To get rid of extraneous noise, it is necessary to lubricate the fan motor bushing.
Video (click to play).
With a mileage of more than 100 - 140 thousand km, the generator may fail. Dealers produce only its aggregate replacement without repair for 25 thousand rubles. Often it is possible to extend the life of a generator by repairing it for 3-5 thousand rubles.
