Do-it-yourself Trophy tsp19 lantern repair

There is a TROPHY TSP19 flashlight, I want to convert it to 1 Watt diodes, put it on the platform and put lenses on them.

Question:
how to power 19 of them?
shove Akums into it. 18650 how much is optimal 4-5-6.
how to charge them (giblets from a flashlight will do)?
enough radiators or put them on metal. disc 10cm in diameter?

And there are no larger pictures?

LED Bulb Type: Spotlight Round
LED Model: 1W High Power
Beam Opening (°): 120 °
Voltage: 3.2v-3.6v Power Tolerance: 10%
Color temperature: Cool white (5500-7000K)

although the Chinese may lie

consumption current h.z. maybe

OmunTake a look here: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2533/forum/13-6424-1
There, in message 3, there is a seal for a similar flashlight, designed for power from a transformer built into the flashlight. If there are such parts available (can be ordered on Ali), then you will get an eternal lantern powered by lithium batteries and recharging from the mains. On the board, install a simple driver for a 1W LED at 350mA, or a group of LEDs for the same current consumption, and your 19 LEDs will be just at the required current consumption.
I am already remaking friends of the third similar lantern. I soldered another scarf, I'm waiting for the lantern itself to be brought in for revision.
A hand-held flashlight has been prepared nearby for revision, charging will be from a charger for a cell ..

that's why I don't like china

Are these batteries suitable? ru.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-lot-2016-newest-100-Original-18650-ICR18650-26Fm-2600mAh-Li-ion-3-7v-Battery-18650/32728833809.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999. 270.OOYcdV

You fumble along the way. learn to work with the camera. impossible to watch.

So which condender should be soldered at par?

if I correctly decoded the color scheme (orange / orange / brown / gold), then R5 is 330 Ohm +/- 5%, but R2 also burned out and I can't find the value, I also re-soldered the 220mF 25V conder (set to 35V) and out of hopelessness decided to check with any resistor (30kOhm) that came across instead of charred R2, the result - the capacitor let out smoke after about 2 minutes of connecting to the network, but the flashlight at that time turned on and shone.

Pavel Pernikov, he has a power cord. Charged from the mains.

good evening and how to properly charge this flashlight? thanks in advance

T t, to be honest, he ended up using radio components and LEDs

The Chinese have learned how to make consumer goods and, in particular, flashlights. There is no such abundance of shapes, sizes, colors, perhaps, in any other group of products. There are at least five of them at home, but I bought another one. And not at all out of curiosity, I looked at it and my imagination drew a picture of how in the dark I turn on the side panel, attach it with the end part with a magnet to a metal garage door, and open the locks in the light, with my hands not busy. Service - "five stars"! But it was proposed to buy a lantern in a non-working condition.

• 6 LEDs (3 in reflector + 3 in side panel)
• 2 operating modes
• built-in memory
• magnet for fastening
• dimensions: 11x5x5 cm

Outwardly, an absolutely serviceable and attractive product did not create a luminous flux. Well, is it possible that such a wonderful thing was absolutely useless for nothing? This model was in a single copy, but the electronics lover in me "broadcast" that everything is surmountable.

The wire came off when the case was opened, but the plastic was already scorched and suggested that the electronic components of the charger circuit were burnt, and the battery could be quite serviceable.

And I started checking with it. The voltmeter showed the voltage at the terminals equal to one volt. Having already had some experience of dealing with such batteries, he began by opening the upper safety bar on it, removed the rubber caps, refilled each "jar" with one cube of distilled water and put it on charge. Charging voltage 12 V, current 50 mA.

Charging in high voltage mode (instead of the standard 4.7 V) lasted two hours, more than 4 volts were available.

Since the battery is serviceable, then it needs a charger assembled according to a more decent scheme and on more reliable electronic components than from a Chinese manufacturer, in which the input resistor "burned out", one of the two 1N4007 diodes of the rectifier was broken and smoked when turned on The charger is a resistor for the LED. First of all, you need a reliable capacitor of at least 400 volts, a diode bridge and a suitable zener diode at the output.

The compiled circuit showed its performance, a capacitor with a capacity of 1 μF and 400 V found MBGO (much more reliable and fits well into the intended case), the diode bridge is assembled from 4 pieces of 1N4007 diodes, the zener diode took the first imported one for testing (the stabilization voltage was determined by the prefix to multimeter, but its name could not be read).

Further, the circuit was assembled by soldering and used to produce a normal charge cycle of a previously discharged battery (milliammeter with a shunt, so in reality a complete deflection of the arrow occurs at a current of 50 mA). The zener diode is already used with a stabilization voltage of 5 V.

Printed circuit board for the final assembly of the charger with dimensions for the cell phone charging case. There is no better case here.

View of a really assembled, workable board. The capacitor body is glued to the board with “master” glue. But I was too lazy to poison the scarf, I blame, I accidentally found myself at hand a used one of practically the right size and this circumstance decided everything.

But I was not too lazy to replace the information sticker on the charging case. With a fully charged battery, in the dark, the side panel quite decently illuminates a room of 10 square meters. meters, and the light from the headlamp reflector makes objects clearly visible at a distance of up to 10 meters.

In the future, I propose to choose a more reliable and powerful battery for the flashlight. Posted by Babay from Barnaula.

Alteration of the Trophy TG9 LED flashlight.

The flashlight itself is very handy.

Pros: two positions of brightness, light, head-mounted, long discharge.

Of the minuses: it has charging from 220 volts, which is not entirely safe. Has a specific connector for charging.

I went fishing, I take out my Trophy TG9 flashlight, it does not work (((I opened it at home and watch an oil painting. The battery was swollen and it stopped showing signs of life.

The search for a donor was not long. The old phone has been disassembled and the US454261 A8T battery has been pulled out.

Manufacturer Specifications: Li-polymer, 1600mAh, 3.7V

Funny)) and on the battery itself, 1530mAh, 3.7V is indicated, it is not so important. The capacity of the native battery is A * h 0.9. what will be less than I will bet.

The charging voltage is suitable, the charging currents are suitable.

For the experiment, I solder the "new" battery instead of the old one, check the charging and operation of the new battery of the Trophy TG9 flashlight itself.

Charge for 30 minutes, flashlight works. It is advisable not to leave it like that... Li Battery is a capricious thing.

For stable and proper battery charging, I recommend installing a charging stabilizer.

We order a Charger from our Chinese friends. Translation from ALI.

TP4056 1A Lipo Battery Charger Charger Board Module Lithium Battery DIY Mini USB Port +

They cost 60 rubles for 5 pieces.

You can find one at a time. This is a 5 volt battery charger with charge and discharge control based on the TP4056 chip.

As soon as the boards arrive, I will throw out all the giblets except the power button and switch the brightness, the battery, and the flashlight LEDs. I will bring the charging and discharging diodes to the body of the flashlight. As a result, we get the Trophy TG9 Flashlight with the ability to charge from a regular 5 volt phone power supply. I am waiting for the delivery of the boards and continue the article.

We connect it to our battery.

Everything is working. The blue LED lights up as it charges.

We throw out the old giblets of the Trophy TG9 flashlight and insert the TP4056 board. We take out the LEDs to the case.

Putting together our work.

Red diode charging, green charging complete.

The TP4056 board itself produces about 4 volts per battery. The current did not measure.

Bottom line: The flashlight has become 4 times lighter. It keeps charging on all 9 diodes for 3 days of continuous operation. The truth is charged for 5 hours.

This completes the alteration of the Trophy TG9 LED flashlight, all pleasant alterations.

How to fix your LED Chinese pocket flashlight yourself. DIY LED lights repair instructions with visual photos and videos

Today we are going to talk about how to fix an LED Chinese pocket flashlight by yourself. We will also consider instructions for repairing LED lights with our own hands with visual photos and videos

As you can see, the scheme is simple. The main elements: a current-limiting capacitor, a rectifier diode bridge on four diodes, a battery, a switch, super-bright LEDs, a flashlight battery charging indication LED.

Well, now, in order, about the purpose of all the elements in the flashlight.

Current limiting capacitor. It is designed to limit the charging current of the battery. Its capacity may vary for each type of flashlight. A non-polar mica capacitor is used. The operating voltage must be at least 250 volts. In the circuit, it must be shunted, as shown, with a resistor. It serves to discharge the capacitor after you unplug the flashlight from the charger. Otherwise, you could get an electric shock if you accidentally touch the 220 volt mains terminals of the flashlight. The resistance of this resistor must be at least 500 kOhm.

The rectifier bridge is assembled on silicon diodes with a reverse voltage of at least 300 volts.

A simple red or green LED is used to indicate that the flashlight battery is charging. It is connected in parallel with one of the rectifier bridge diodes. True, in the diagram, I forgot to indicate the resistor connected in series with this LED.

It makes no sense to talk about the rest of the elements, so everything should be clear anyway.

I would like to draw your attention to the main points of repairing an LED flashlight. Consider the main malfunctions and how to fix them.

1. The flashlight stopped shining. There are not so many options here. The reason may be the failure of super-bright LEDs. This can happen, for example, in the following case. You put the flashlight on charge and accidentally turned on the switch. In this case, a sharp current surge will occur and one or more diodes of the rectifier bridge may be punctured. And behind them, the capacitor may not be able to withstand it and will close. The battery voltage will rise sharply and the LEDs will fail. So, in any case, do not turn on the flashlight when charging, if you do not want to throw it away.

2. The flashlight does not turn on. Well, here you need to check the switch.

3. The flashlight runs out very quickly. If your flashlight is "experienced", then most likely the battery has worked out its service life. If you actively use the flashlight, then after one year of operation, the battery no longer holds.

Problem 1. LED flashlight does not turn on or flickers during operation

This is usually the reason for poor contact. The easiest treatment is to tighten all threads tightly.
If the flashlight doesn't work at all, start by checking the battery. Perhaps it is discharged or out of order.

Unscrew the back cover of the lamp and use a screwdriver to close the housing with the negative contact of the battery. If the flashlight lights up, then the problem is in the module with the button.

90% of the buttons of all LED lights are made according to the same scheme:
The button body is made of aluminum with a thread, a rubber cap is inserted there, then the button module itself and a pressure ring for contact with the body.

The problem is most often solved in a loosely clamped pressure ring.
To eliminate this malfunction, it is enough to find round-nose pliers with thin stings or thin scissors that need to be inserted into the holes, as in the photo, and turned clockwise.

If the ring moves, then the problem has been fixed. If the ring is in place, then the problem lies in the contact of the button module with the body. Unscrew the retaining ring counterclockwise and pull the button module outward.
Often poor contact occurs due to oxidation of the aluminum surface of the ring or rim on the printed circuit board. Indicated by arrows)

It is enough just to wipe these surfaces with alcohol and the functionality will be restored.

Button modules are different. Some in which the contact goes through the printed circuit board, others, in which the contact goes through the side lobes to the body of the lantern.
Just bend such a petal to the side so that the contact is tighter.
Alternatively, you can solder tin to make the surface thicker and press the contact better.
All LED lights are basically the same.

The plus goes through the positive terminal of the battery to the center of the LED module.
The minus goes through the body and closes with a button.

It will not be superfluous to check the tightness of the LED module inside the case. This is also a common problem with LED lights.

Using round nose pliers or pliers, rotate the module clockwise until it stops. Be careful, it is easy to damage the LED at this point.

These actions should be enough to restore the functionality of the LED flashlight.

It is worse when the flashlight works and the modes are switched, but the beam is very dim, or the flashlight does not work at all and there is a burning smell inside.

Problem 2. The flashlight works fine, but dimly, or does not work at all and there is a burning smell inside

Most likely the driver is out of order.
The driver is a transistorized electronic circuit that controls the flashlight modes and is also responsible for a constant voltage level, regardless of the battery discharge.

You need to unsolder the burned-out driver and solder a new driver, or connect the LED directly to the battery. In this case, you lose all modes and remain only with the maximum.

Sometimes (much less often) the LED fails.
This can be verified very simply. bring the voltage 4.2 V / to the contact pads of the LED. The main thing is not to mix up the polarity. If the LED is on brightly, then the driver is out of order, if on the contrary, then you need to order a new LED.

Unscrew the LED module from the housing.
Modules are different, but usually they are made of copper or brass and

The weakest point of such lights is the button. Its contacts are oxidized, as a result of which the flashlight begins to shine dimly, and then it may stop turning on altogether.
The first sign is that a flashlight with a normal battery shines weakly, but if you click the button several times, the brightness increases.

The easiest way to make such a lantern shine is to do the following:

1. Take a thin stranded wire, cut off one vein.
2. We wind the wiring on the spring.
3. Bend the wire so that the battery does not break it. The wire should protrude slightly
over the swirling part of the flashlight.
4. Tighten tightly. We break off the excess wire (tear off).
As a result, the wire provides good contact with the negative part of the battery and the flashlight.
will shine with due brightness. Of course, the button with such a repair is not a lot, therefore
turn on - turn off the flashlight by turning the head part.
My Chinese man worked like this for a couple of months. If you need to change the battery, the back of the flashlight
should not be touched. We turn our head away.

RESTORING THE PERFORMANCE OF THE BUTTON.

Today I decided to bring the button back to life. The button is in a plastic case, which
simply pressed into the back of the light. In principle, it can be pushed back, but I did it a little differently:

1. Make a pair of holes with a 2 mm drill bit to a depth of 2-3 mm.
2. Now you can unscrew the housing with the button with tweezers.
3. We extract the button.
4. The button is assembled without glue and latches, so it can be easily disassembled with a stationery knife.
The photo shows that the movable contact has oxidized (round bullshit in the center, like a button).
You can clean it with an eraser or fine sandpaper and put the button back together, but I decided to additionally irradiate this part and the fixed contacts.

1. We clean with fine sandpaper.
2. We serve with a thin layer the places marked in red. We wipe the flux with alcohol,
collecting the button.
3. To increase reliability, I soldered the spring to the bottom contact of the button.
4. Putting everything back.
After renovation, the button works fine. Of course, tin also oxidizes, but since tin is a rather soft metal, I hope that the oxide film will be
easy to break down. It is not for nothing that the central contact on the bulbs is made of tin.

What is "hotspot", my Chinese person was very vague, so I decided to enlighten him.
We unscrew the head part.

1. The board has a small hole (arrow). With the help of an awl, we unscrew the filling,
at the same time, lightly press your finger on the glass from the outside. This makes it easier to get out.
2. Remove the reflector.
3. Take ordinary office paper, punch 6-8 holes with an office punch.
The hole diameter of the hole punch perfectly matches the diameter of the LED.
Cut out 6-8 paper washers.
4. Place the washers on the LED and press down with the reflector.
Here you have to experiment with the number of pucks. In this way, I improved the focusing of a pair of flashlights, the number of washers was in the range of 4-6. It took 6 of them on the current patient.

INCREASE BRIGHTNESS (for those who know a little about electronics).

The Chinese save on everything. A couple of unnecessary details - an increase in the cost price, so they do not put it.

The main part of the diagram (marked in green) can be different. On one or two transistors or on a specialized microcircuit (I have a circuit of two parts:
choke and microcircuit with 3 legs, similar to a transistor). But on the part marked in red - they save. I added a capacitor and a pair of 1n4148 diodes in parallel (I didn't find a Schottky). The brightness of the LED has increased by 10-15 percent.

1. This is how the LED looks like in similar Chinese. From the side you can see that there are thick and thin legs inside. A thin leg is a plus. You need to navigate on this basis, because the colors of the wires can be completely unpredictable.
2. This is how the board looks like, to which the LED is soldered (on the back side). Foil is marked in green. The wires from the driver are soldered to the LED legs.
3. Cut the foil on the plus side of the LED with a sharp knife or a triangular file.
We sand the entire board to remove the varnish.
4. We solder the diodes and the capacitor. I took the diodes from a broken computer power supply, the tantalum capacitor dropped out of some burned-out hard drive.
The positive wire now needs to be soldered to the pad with diodes.

As a result, the flashlight gives out (by eye) 10-12 lumens (see photos with hotspots),
judging by the phoenix, which produces 9 lumens in the minimum mode.

Dima Tolstobrov 6 days ago

can not find lead acid battery 4v 1.5 ah for trophy tsp12 flashlight how can I remake? The lantern is very good, just not finalized.

TYZ programmer! 5 days ago

And what prevents to do as in this video?

Eduard Shevtsov 3 months ago

You can diagram and ratings of parts of the standard (factory) power supply. The fact is that exactly the same lantern, the resistor R2 burned out, so that the marking is not visible. I really want to subdue him.

TYZ programmer! 3 months ago

Everything is simple, but the program for the phone is useful, I did not know about this

Why can't a person find the videos they want on Youtube? The thing is that a person cannot come up with something new and look for it. He was out of fantasy. He has already watched a lot of various channels, and he no longer wants to watch anything (from what he watched earlier), but what to do in this situation?
In order to find a Youtube video that suits your needs, it is imperative to keep searching. The harder your search is, the better your search result will be.
Remember that you only need to find a few channels (interesting), and you can watch them for a whole week or even a month. Therefore, in the absence of imagination and unwillingness to search, you can ask your friends and acquaintances what they are looking at on Youtube. Perhaps they will suggest original vloggers that they like. You, too, may like them, and you will become their subscriber!

Online mp3 cutting is convenient
and a simple service to help you
create a musical ringtone yourself.

YouTube video converter Our online video
the converter allows you to download videos from
YouTube website in webm, mp4, 3gpp, flv, mp3 formats.

These are radio stations to choose from by country, style
and quality. Radio stations all over the world
over 1000 popular radio stations.

Live broadcast from webcams is made
absolutely free in real
time - broadcast online.

Our Online Television is more than 300 popular
TV channels to choose from, by country
and genres. Broadcasting of TV channels is free.

A great opportunity to start a new relationship
with a continuation in real life. Random video
chat (chat roulette), the audience is people from all over the world.

Checking operation from the network, troubleshooting

Farid Mustafin Hace 2 meses

but what a damn they cling to you butoh the mistakes themselves did not let everyone go through it

Semyon Semyonov Hace un año

Shooting with the next shkolota handshake. Half of the video is in the dark, it’s not clear what. And the other part is about how the great repairman suddenly found out what the electrolytic conduit consists of.

Alexey Babenko Hace un año

Semyon Semyonov Hace un año

Remove nafig then this video. Agree, it is of no value, but the sediment remains.

Alexey Babenko Hace un año

Semyon Semyonov, damn it, it was a hundred years ago, I completely forgot about this repair, then I tried to restore any crap and, in principle, did not know anything

Maxim Vakulenko Hace un año

Hi! I have the same trouble, but my resistance has burned out, I am also from Sevas! How can I contact you?

Throw out the fuck this Chinese shit and don't worry

For the normal life of a person in the dark, he always needed light. With the advancement of technology, light sources have improved, from torches and kerosene lamps to rechargeable flashlights. A real revolution in the world of lighting technology was the creation of the LED, which immediately entered everyday life.

Modern LED lights are very economical, the light travels very far and is very bright. A huge share of such lithium flashlights on the modern market is made in China, they are very cheap and affordable. It is because of the low cost that breakdowns of various kinds often occur. In this article, we will consider the main problems of repairing LED lights and how to fix them yourself.

The classic device of flashlights is very simple (regardless of the type of housing, be it the Cosmos model or DiK AN-005). An LED is connected to the battery, the circuit is broken by the shutdown button. Depending on the number of LEDs, the number of light elements themselves (for example, the main lamp on the front and the auxiliary lamp in the handle), a stronger battery (or several), a transformer, resistance are added to the circuit, and a more functional switch is installed (Fo-DiK flashlights) ...

Now we will omit the problems associated with the improper operation of a Chinese flashlight - "I dropped it into a bowl of water, turned it on and off, but for some reason it does not shine." Flashlights are cheap by simplifying the electrical circuits inside the device. This allows you to save on components (on their quantity and quality). This is done so that people often buy new ones, and the old ones are simply thrown away, without even trying to fix them with their own hands.

Another point of economy is people working in production who are not qualified to do this kind of work.As a result, there are many small and large errors in the circuit itself, poor-quality soldering and assembly of components, which leads to constant repair of lamps. In most cases, all problems can be solved by correctly diagnosing them, and this is what we will deal with further.

Most likely, when the switch is switched, the LEDs do not want to light up due to a malfunction in the electrical circuit. The most common ones are:

• oxidation of battery or battery contacts;
• oxidation on the contacts to which the battery is connected;
• damage to the wires going both from the battery to the LED and vice versa;
• faulty shutdown element;
• lack of power in the circuit;
• breakage in the LEDs themselves.

Oxidation. Most often it occurs in already old lanterns, which are often used in various weather conditions. Plaque that appears on the metal interferes with normal contact, due to which the flashlight on the batteries may flicker or not turn on at all. If oxidation is observed on a battery or accumulator, then you need to think about replacing.

How do I fix contacts? Light dirt is removed with your own hands with a cotton swab dipped in ethyl alcohol. When the contamination is very serious, even rust has gone along the body - the use of such a battery can be dangerous to health and life. In stores, you can now find a sufficient number of new batteries and accumulators, even for old types of flashlights.

Take care of the environment - do not throw old batteries in the trash can, you probably have collection points for recycling in your city.

Oxidation also forms on the contacts in the lamp itself. Here, too, you need to pay attention to their integrity. If the contamination can still be removed with a cotton swab and alcohol, stop at this option. For hard-to-reach places, you can use a cotton swab.

If the contacts are completely rusted or even rotten (which is not uncommon for an old flashlight), they will have to be changed. Ask an electronics store if there are similar contact elements (for at least ten years, they are absolutely identical in all flashlights, with rare exceptions). If there are no similar ones, choose the most similar option. Armed with a thin soldering iron, they can be easily re-soldered.

Damage to the wire contacts. In addition to the above-described places, contacts are present in the places where the wires of the electrical circuit are soldered. Cheap manufacturing, rush to assemble and negligent workers often lead to forgetting to solder some wires altogether, so the LED flashlight doesn't work even if it's just out of the box. How do I repair my flashlight in this case? Carefully view the entire circuit by gently pushing back the wires with medical tweezers or other thin object. If a failed soldering is found, it must be restored using the same thin soldering iron.

The same can be done with flimsy joints, the characteristic state of which is a torn, bare vein, barely attached to the place of adhesion. If you have enough time and resources, and you value this flashlight, you can methodically and efficiently solder all contacts in general. This will significantly increase the efficiency of such a chain, protect exposed elements from moisture and dust (which is important if the flashlight is a headlamp), and in subsequent cases of repairing the flashlight, this item will be eliminated. Repair of small LED headlamps is carried out in exactly the same way, the dimensions are simply different.

Damaged wires. After you have made sure that the contacts are clean, you can start looking at all the wires in the circuit for damage or short circuits. It is common for wiring to be damaged by an improperly installed housing cover, either during factory assembly or after a previous repair. Wire caught between two body parts and was cut or crushed while tightening the bolts. During the flow of current, the electrical circuit could overheat or even short-circuit, this will inevitably lead to the repair of the LED flashlight.

All broken sections must be soldered together to provide better conductivity than simple twisting. Do not forget to insulate all exposed areas, it is best to use a thin heat shrink. Heavily damaged wires, which could already be rusty, it is advisable to completely replace them with your own hands (select the appropriate core). After such a revision, the old lanterns can shine much brighter - the modernization performed improves the current flow.

Defective switch. Also pay attention to the contacts of the wires with the switch terminals, troubleshoot. The easiest way to find out if your flashlight is not working because of a switch is to close the circuit without it. Exclude it from the circuit by directly connecting the battery-LEDs (you can also try from the mains with the corresponding battery voltage). If they light up, we change the switch. Perhaps it has already broken down mechanically from reusable use, the flashlight just turns off, and a defect in production is also possible. If the LEDs do not want to light up directly from the battery, follow on.

Lack of current in the network. The most common cause of such a malfunction is a discharged or badly old lithium battery. The LED flashlight can glow when charging, but if you unplug it from the outlet, it immediately goes out. A complete malfunction is observed when the flashlight does not charge at all and does not react in any way to switching on, although the charging indicator is on stably.

Breakage of LEDs. When all the problems with the wires are eliminated (or they were not there), pay attention to the LEDs themselves. Carefully take out the board on which they are soldered. Use a multimeter to find out the current that goes in and out of the board. If possible, check the contacts on the entire board. Most likely, the LEDs are connected in series, so if one breaks down, the rest will not shine either. Checking each one, if there are 3 or more of them, is a rather long process, so it is better to buy new LEDs right away.

Many cheap Chinese LED flashlights, assembled under austerity conditions, are the most prone to electrical breakdowns. Wires with a very small cross-section are installed there, which are quite problematic to solder even with a good device. However, almost all problems with wires and batteries can be easily eliminated at home, with the right and careful approach, even an inexpensive refurbished flashlight will serve you more than three years of constant use.