DIY repair of brc injectors

Hello comrades!
I was ripe for opening Temko about BRC injectors and their proud feature “non-serviceability” and “problem-free”.

I myself am an ardent supporter of Valtek / Railov, since I myself do not have a car younger than 2005 and the rate of fire of Valteks is “for my eyes”. Himself once a year "capital", calibrate and reconfigure HBO. I understand that those who see it cannot do Valteki anymore. But! If Valteks grab any g @ avno, sticky or super-fast, they, like a Kalashnikov assault rifle, can simply be disassembled into components, rinsed, assembled, calibrated in 10 minutes and driven on.

Now about BRC.
I know firsthand that BRC are one of the best injectors in terms of their resource. But! I have repeatedly heard and had a chance to see live how BRC injectors stop working on a car with a mileage of 10,000 km because of the poor quality of gas. To be honest, I think that the gas in Latvia is quite good, but I refuel myself only in 2 gas networks and so far I have not come across dirty gas myself. But clients of my friends repeatedly come with warranty machines and poorly working LPG equipment due to poorly working injectors.

Obviously, the guys are washing the nozzles by blowing a carbcliner into the ramp and blowing the ramp with a compressor by supplying a control current to the nozzles. But this flushing does not help everyone. People come back to the service again and again until they get new nozzles. The BRCs themselves are smart too. Injectors are no longer provided under warranty, since the reason for the injectors not working is its “clogging”.

So it turns out that super injectors, like "Mercedes S500" in our realities of "bad roads" simply cannot realize their potential.

Dear HBO installers! Those who are engaged in the installation and maintenance of HBO BRC, how do you deal with the above problems with BRC injectors?

1. Is there a “correct” way to flush the nozzles?
2. Have you learned how to disassemble them with high quality?
3. Do you install a super filter “sediment” and does it help you?
4. . some unnamed method.

The fact that you can grab shit with our gas is a FACT. Sooner or later, in Moscow or the periphery, but it will happen. What should you do in this case?

I remembered about these injectors because a friend whom I advised to install HBO with my friends on a 2010 Honda CRV. in winter, the nozzles were covered with a run of 20t.km. The injectors were washed, but the machine still did not work as it should. The injectors were replaced. Well, yesterday the same story was on the SAAB 9-3 aero. Which had 2 problems. BRC bug due to which the car did not switch from gasoline to gas when driving in the cold season and clogged nozzles. Yesterday they were washed, since this is not a warranty case. The mileage of the car is only 10t.km.

Here are the things.
I agree that BRC nozzles are some of the best, but in the realities of Western Europe. Nobody can guarantee that you can't grab shit when you run 100t.km in Russia. Sometimes we go far from home. Flushing helps 50% of the time or less. Replacing nozzles is very expensive. We have 1pc. the nozzle costs almost $ 50.

It would be reasonable to find a repair option for these injectors. Ask the manufacturer to make the nozzles disassembled (which I don't really understand) or install a super filter that is guaranteed to prevent the nozzles from clogging up.

I mean, if all the same there are problems, then there are no solutions other than how to flush the nozzles.

About the fact that there is no problem disbelief. I'm not saying that the injectors are bad. They are actually, if not the best, then some of them. But we have had problems with them, and more than once. Note, ONLY IN THE COLD season, in the winter months. If resin gets into the nozzle, that's it, it sticks.

In winter, the guys wash and try to restore the working capacity of BRC injectors in a month, for 2 or three clients. And so throughout the city.

No, since this is a collective farm, the method is also a collective farm 🙂 The ramp is removed from the car and placed on the table. Wiring with cyclic control signals is connected to the injectors. At the entrance to the ramp, ether is injected for a quick start (in winter, this is how old cars are started). Then it is blown out by the compressor. The whole procedure is carried out with a snatching nozzle.

As a rule, the machine immediately works. But very often "washed" nozzles junk repeatedly. All this happens during the cold season.

This is a specialized sub-forum. Flood is strictly prohibited!

Group: Active users
Posts: 98
Registration: 19.3.2012
From: Kiev
Real name: Sergey

My car: 1.8 SX sedan

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Registration: 2.2.2013
From: Poltava

My car: Lacetti 1.8 LDA sedan, etc.

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My car: Lacetti 1.8 SX wagon

You can put something, whatever, but it won't work normally (it just won't tune in).
If funds are constrained, then you can look for a used one. nozzles. For installers, it often happens that when a “fat” client changes a set of nozzles (for example, one or two not working), then they still have several pieces of workers from the old set. It is necessary to call and ask around those who are engaged in the installation of BRC.

Post has been edited Cobox – 30.5.2015, 12:14

Group: Active users
Posts: 3,156
Registration: 2.2.2013
From: Poltava

My car: Lacetti 1.8 LDA sedan, etc.

Group: Active users
Posts: 98
Registration: 19.3.2012
From: Kiev
Real name: Sergey

My car: 1.8 SX sedan

Buying a BU is not an option, not because I am special, just the cost of a BU is comparable to the cost of the new khan, + my mileage is already 140 tyk. In winter, when the first time I persecuted, I did not remember where, but it doesn’t matter that it is possible to put the nozzles of the Khan, they are similar to the original. Setting question. In the same place, this guru advised to install oem in the program settings of the nozzles, but they are similar in rate of fire.
Now I want to make or buy a cable for quick couplers, I need advice on connecting to a car. There is such a thing
9 & limit = 100. Do I need and how else to connect the MAC sensor (in the summer, after replacing the gearbox repair kit, the tuner connected my map separately, that is, there were two maps when setting up).
I found it: BRC Sequent_24 is connected via K-line with a regular Vag-com cord, 7 pins on it K-Line. On HBO (small 3-pin connector: white K-line, Red +12, Black -.) You must turn on the ignition.

Post has been edited bask298 – 30.5.2015, 20:41

Driving gas-fueled cars, drivers often encounter incorrect operation or LPG breakdowns. The efficiency of this equipment largely depends on the health of the gas injectors. Their operation takes place under conditions of exposure to high temperatures, and sometimes low-quality fuel.

Owners of vehicles running on gas are advised to know how to repair, clean and adjust the 4th generation LPG gas injectors with their own hands. This will help in some situations and save money.

Gas injectors are special LPG units that are responsible for the dosage of fuel, in fact, they are high-speed valves. Thanks to their correct operation, the required ratio of the gas-air mixture in the internal combustion engine is ensured. Such mechanisms began to be used in the 4th generation of HBO.

Some of the most popular are stock models from Valtek (Valtek), Rail (Reil), Digitronic (Digitronic), OMVL (OMVL), Lovato (Lovato). Their undoubted plus is that they are easy to repair, which consists in flushing, replacing a repair kit and adjusting, in contrast to non-separable injectors like BRC (BRS), Barracuda (Barracuda) and the like.

Symptoms of a malfunction of one or more injectors may include:

1. high fuel consumption;
2. deterioration of the dynamic characteristics of the machine;
3. unstable engine operation, troit of the internal combustion engine (one or a pair of injectors does not work);
4. failures when pressing the gas pedal;
5. malfunctions of various sensors, appearance of “Check engine” errors (for example, MAC sensor);
6. knocking in the nozzles (loudly "clatter");
7. gas leaks through injectors (pouring / poisoning);
8. the car stops idling, the injectors do not turn on.

The reasons for this may be:

• wear of damper rubber rings on the valve stems (because of this, the nozzles knock);
• development of the seat (seat) of the valve or its locking rubber;
• wear of a rod (also called a piston, an anchor) or a liner (aka a core, a cylinder, a bulb);
• jamming of the anchor in the cylinder;
• weakening of the elasticity of the piston return spring;
• failure of the electromagnetic coil (solenoid);
• violation of the integrity of the wiring.

All of the above reasons may appear naturally or due to low-quality parts, untimely maintenance of gas equipment, violation of the rules for installing injectors. So, for example, without replacing the LPG filters on time, gas condensate (oily liquid, water, dirt) can get into the nozzles, which can cause their wedging or accelerated wear.

Also, the horizontal position during installation affects the uneven wear (ellipse) of the sleeve body and stem. And the banal non-observance of the rules for installing wires (twisting instead of soldering, mixing up, improper fastening) can cause problems over time.
One way or another, but nozzles of this type rarely live up to 70 thousand km. mileage without repair (change of a repair kit). It all depends on the conditions of their operation.

A detailed check of the gas injectors (injection / opening time, throughput) is possible only when connecting diagnostic equipment, as well as after dismantling the entire ramp and checking it on a special stand in a car service. Or build a homemade stand.

It is possible to independently identify which injector does not work and the presence of leaks (tightness) is possible only by alternately disconnecting the connectors / chips and removing the hoses from the outlet fittings. It is highly discouraged to use such methods!

To repair the 4th generation LPG injectors of the Valtek or OMVL type, for this you need to remove the entire rail assembly:

• shut off the gas supply to the cylinder. To do this, you need to turn on the corresponding valve of the multivalve;
• start the engine for a while to use up fuel residues from the system;
• disconnect the battery terminals;
• disconnect hoses and power supply;
• by unscrewing the vibration dampers, remove the gas train.

In order to disassemble and flush the nozzle (consider the example of Valtek type 30), you need:

1. using a 12 key, unscrew the calibration jets / nozzles from the bottom of the ramp;
2. use round-nose pliers or a screwdriver to remove the locking rings of the coils;
3. dismantle the coils;
4. unscrew (key 14) the valve cores and remove the pistons from them.

Next, you need to check for wear: rubber parts, valve seats and stems with sleeves.

Important! If it is intended only to clean the gas injectors, without replacing parts, it is imperative to assemble all the elements in their places without confusing them. Also, in this case, it will help to extend the life of the nozzles - if you turn over the spilled locking rubber bands on the rods.

Carry out a defect identification of parts. Identify the squeezed rubber rings, bumpers and seals, also check the cylinders and anchors for wear. The valve elastic should not have large recesses from the seat. The saddle also shrinks over time. Discard unsuitable parts.

Then clean the parts of the nozzles from dirt deposits, it is convenient to do this with a rag, cotton swabs. Using a carburetor cleaner (carbokliner), acetone, gasoline or other similar products.
Rubber products (if it is decided not to change), you need to remove, it is impossible to wash them with aggressive substances. Rubber can swell from such compounds. For the same reason, it is not advisable to clean / rinse nozzles (non-separable) such as Hana, Barracuda, Brc, the effect of such cleaning is enough for a short time, if at all they will work after that.

A repair kit for gas injectors, as a rule, is completed only with rubber products (RTI), a rod and a spring, for one injector or the entire ramp.You can also buy a complete set of parts (rods with core bodies and return springs assembled). It happens all separately. On average, the price of a standard repair kit for one rail will be about 500 rubles.

Based on numerous reviews from drivers, for Valtek injectors, and this is LPG Tech, GREEN GAS (Green Gas), Atiker (Atiker), WentGas (Ventgas), Tomasetto (Tomasetto), Yota (iota), Digitronic (Digitronic), even Lovato ( Lovato), original RAIL repair kits are best suited.

The peculiarity of the r / c is that their piston has a hole in the body, this solution reduces the effect of the syringe. If the choice fell on another manufacturer, you should pay attention to the lack of magnetic properties of the metal of the parts (this should not be), dimensions, weight.

The whole replacement process consists in assembling the block of mechanisms in the reverse order:

1. if the pistons are not changed, then remove from the seats on the rods and replace the rings (rubber dampers / bumpers);
2. install (new / old) anchors and return springs in the sleeves;
3. change the O-rings of the stem stroke adjusting screw, as well as under the coil and core;
4. screw the sleeves into the rail;
5. put on coils, retaining rings.

It is recommended to use all seals once. Calibration outlet / nipples do not need to be installed at this stage.

The adjustment of the 4th generation LPG gas injectors of the Valtek type is reduced to adjusting the stroke for uniform dosing of fuel.

There is a calibration option, using a factory or home-made stand for checking and calibrating gas injectors; not even all service stations have such equipment.

Do-it-yourself calibration of gas injectors is performed with a micrometer device with an extension sleeve / sleeve and a thread on it corresponding to the thread of the dosing nozzle, it is also a dial indicator with a scale of 0.01 mm (it is completed with depth gauges, bore gauges).

You will also need a 4-12 V power supply (for example, a battery or a power supply), a piece of wire with a connector to the injector and a button for a short-term impulse so that the injector coil does not burn out (remember that the solenoid resistance is 1-3 ohms).

1. fix the micrometer to the ramp;
2. make sure that the indicator rod touches the injector armature;
3. apply power to the coil for up to 1 second (ideally, you first need to run several cycles to warm up and shrink the damping rings);
4. set the value on the device to 0;
5. in this way, adjust the plunger stroke. By turning the core screw clockwise, the gap decreases, counterclockwise - increases. It is necessary to achieve the same values ​​on all valves.

Below is a table for calibrating the armature travel of Valtek gas injectors, depending on the power of the power unit:

injection starts to gain momentum. and the problem becomes force. they need to be washed because gasoline has fallen in price and gas is still damn expensive.

I wonder how to wash and with what? wash as well as gasoline?

they all wash, but how to wash they are silent. here are misers

They must be disassembled with your own hands, this is very important, that is, unscrew from the ramp and put in a bath with gasoline. Then make a few back-and-forth movements so that the gasoline washes over the injectors and flushes the dirt off them. Application possible tassels... A brush is such a cool thing that it is better to take half a liter first, otherwise you may not understand its use.
Oleg_B

they all wash, but how to wash they are silent. here are misers

They must be disassembled with your own hands, this is very important, that is, unscrew from the ramp and put in a bath with gasoline. Then make a few back-and-forth movements so that the gasoline washes over the injectors and flushes the dirt off them. Application possible tassels... A brush is such a cool thing that it is better to take half a liter first, otherwise you may not understand its use.
Oleg_B

Today we will focus on injectors in automotive gas equipment.The article will be especially useful for those who have not yet gained sufficient practical experience in installing LPG equipment or who are planning to independently install gas on a car.

Our expert is the head of the network of installation services in Crimea, an installer with 15 years of experience Anton Yakushev.

A gas injector is an assembly of automotive gas equipment designed to accurately dose propane or methane gas and achieve an optimal fuel-air mixture in an internal combustion engine. Liquid gas is fed to the reducer and evaporates there. Further, under a low and stable pressure, it is supplied just to the gas injectors. The electronic control unit recalculates the signals of the car ECU and controls the operation of the injectors that we are talking about. Gas injectors of steel are used in the so-called LPG of the 4th generation, in distributed injection systems. I will note that the appearance of the 4th generation LPG equipment at one time was a real breakthrough in the conversion of cars to work on gas. The principle of gas supply to each cylinder through gas injectors made it possible to significantly increase the accuracy of gas dosage, thereby bringing the composition of the gas-air mixture as close as possible to the gasoline-air mixture. With the advent of the 4th generation of HBO, many HBO diseases are practically a thing of the past - such as back pops - spontaneous combustion of the mixture in the intake manifold, burnout of valves. So LPG distributed injection was a kind of breakthrough and the gas injector in these systems is the most important element.

How does a gas injector work? The ECU of the gas equipment processes the signals of the petrol computer, processes the signals from the LPG sensors and sends short electrical impulses, under the action of which the injectors are opened. The longer the applied impulse, the longer it is open and the more fuel passes through them.

Structurally, nozzles from different manufacturers are different. Several types can be distinguished, each of them has its own specific advantages and disadvantages.

The most common are rod injectors Type 30. The most famous are Valtel type 30 and Rail type 30, as well as later modifications Rail IG1-IG5-IG9.

In essence, the Type 30 is a high speed solenoid valve. Injectors Type 30 are very popular, they have proven themselves well on engines that are undemanding to the fuel mixture composition and "forgiving" sometimes significant deviations in the fuel mixture from the stoichiometric ratio. The advantages of the Type 30 lie on the surface - they are inexpensive. More precisely - the cheapest. Easy to repair.

At the same time, I must say that in practice I have met cars on which Valtek Type 30 injectors have served 300,000 km. However, this is rather an exception to the rule.

Repair of injector type 30. Procedure:

3. Replace the stem or rubber bump

5. Calibrate with an ordinary micrometer, setting the same stroke on all nozzles - about 0.45 mm.

Repair kit for injector type 30. In the photo, in fact, everything that may be required.

Nozzles with higher consumer properties, but operating according to the Type 30 principle, are OMVL nozzles.

Modern materials are used in OMVL nozzles. The body is made of composite plastic, which allowed for a lighter construction. The stem is made of a special metal alloy that is more sensitive to magnetic impulses. Thus, the injector turned out to be more reliable, faster and more accurate in fuel dosage. Practice shows that the average service life of OMVL injectors is 100,000 km. Although there were batches of updated OMVLs, which very quickly failed the stem springs, this problem was treated by replacing the complete repair kit or the springs themselves.

The next type of nozzles are the so-called needle nozzles - HANA, Keihin, Barracuda. This type of injector is the most expensive of all the options used in the 4th generation LPG system, however, they are the best that can be installed on a car. In needle nozzles, gas is supplied through a solenoid, inside which there is a stem with an obturator.

The principle of operation of needle nozzles

This design allows the nozzle to constantly purge itself and prevents clogging - a kind of self-cleaning mechanism. If the nozzle is clogged, it can be washed on a gasoline stand. This does not happen often, however, this is my personal experience. It is possible that in some region the gas is dirtier than in Crimea and the problem of clogged nozzles will be more acute. The nozzle has a low resistance - 1.9 Ohm. The design provides very accurate metering of fuel, and what is very important - the stability of the operating parameters.

For such injectors, as a rule, the service life is not determined, today I do not have statistics determining the maximum threshold of their service life. For example, Mazda 6 covered more than 300 thousand km on the Khan. Moreover, the nozzles were installed “lying down” due to the peculiarities of the arrangement in the engine compartment. BARAKUDA, Polish production - relatively new for the market, have not yet had time to show high mileage, however, on some cars I have observed, the mileage is already 150-200 thousand and everyone drives without complaints. Japanese Keihen is generally the progenitor of all nozzles of this type. It was this company that was the first to show everyone that gas injectors can be no less reliable and stable than gasoline ones. And it was from them that all other similar models were later copied, the Korean HANA, the Polish BARAKUDA. The nozzles are extremely reliable and durable.

Another type of nozzles is diaphragm. The fundamental difference between these nozzles from other options is that they have a locking mechanism separated from the electromagnetic part by a membrane, thanks to which dirt does not get into the place of contact between parts that are attracted to each other and does not cause jamming and sticking. This ensures the stability and durability of these injectors, their service life is 150-250 thousand km. The disadvantage is that such nozzles, as a rule, are not repaired, and when an aggressive medium enters the interior, the membrane deteriorates and the nozzle begins to let gas outward, and soon it completely breaks down. The biggest disadvantage of diaphragm nozzles is their price. One BRC injector stands as the entire IG1.4 ramp of the cylinder, or as two BARAKUDA injectors. These injectors are mainly used in BRC kits.

There are also nozzles that use locking mechanisms in the form of plates or washers. I don't know much about these nozzles because of their unpopularity. Unfortunately, those injectors that I came across had constructive errors - like Valtec type 34. At our service station, we delivered ten of them. The injectors almost immediately began to "stick" and had to be dismantled. We tried Romano nozzles - they had low speed characteristics. Perhaps, of the options known to me, where a combined metal-rubber plate is used as a locking mechanism, these are AEB nozzles.

They have a well-balanced performance and have proven to be a very good and reliable option. The disadvantage of these nozzles is that they are practically not sold separately from the AEB production systems and are not very different in cost from BARAKUDA.

Recommendations for the selection of nozzles and installation

We talked about the design features above - and here it is for the car owner to decide which option to prefer - a budget or more expensive one. Remember that the more powerful and modern your car is, the more accurate fuel dosage is required for its engine. The use of budget options for injectors can entail such problems as the appearance of errors in the operation of the engine, unstable operation of the internal combustion engine in certain modes, and a drop in power. In addition, budget injectors require more private service. At the same time, many motorists use budget atomizers and are satisfied. The disadvantage of expensive injectors is the price, which is obvious, and often not maintainability.

An important role in the operation of the injectors is played by the way they are mounted on the car, position in space and selection in terms of power. Position in space plays an important role for some models of nozzles.Especially for those with gas supplied from the side of the working rod. If such nozzles are positioned with the coils downwards, dirt accumulates in the working rods very quickly, and the nozzles deviate from the parameters. Then the internal combustion engine begins to run at idle speed, and soon under load, all this is accompanied by an increased gas consumption and, in the end, inevitably ends with the repair of the injectors.

The use of a vapor phase filter plays a huge role in the durability and quality of robotic gas injectors. The filter must be used. Filters are different, both simple - paper or polyester, and with sedimentation tanks for the accumulation of heavy gas fractions. In the separator filters, inside the sump there are channels that make the gas move in a spiral, thereby creating a centrifuge effect and throwing off all heavy fractions, non-evaporated inclusions on the walls of the sump, and then they drain to the bottom. This type of filter allows you to extend the life of the nozzles at times. I would recommend using a separator type filter.

One of the most common questions lately is whether it is allowed to mount the nozzles on plastic ties. Let's just say: the fastening on the screeds does not meet the accepted standards for the installation of LPG equipment on cars, however, in my opinion, this method is permissible, if necessary, and with proper performance of the work, it allows all safety standards to be ensured. And when attaching the injectors to piece-made metal brackets, and when fastening with ties, it is important to make sure that the injector ramp will not be exposed to excessive vibration, in contact with hoses, wiring, and other elements in the engine compartment. It is important to make sure that the fasteners do not loosen or deform during operation. Of course, it is necessary to carry out a preventive inspection of the installed HBO elements - regularly raise the hood and make sure that nothing is loose or frayed. These are simple rules for anticipating problems.

Hello. I am glad to welcome you to the site about the gas-cylinder equipment GBOshnik. Today we'll talk about gas injectors, about how at home clean the gas injectors, and also how adjust the LPG nozzles with your own hands, using a micrometer.

Everyone knows that not only gasoline and diesel fuel are “badyazh” in our country. A long time ago, gas filling stations learned to “inflate” our brother, and not with gas, but with air, mixing various muck into the gas fuel, which adversely affects the state of the gas equipment and the entire engine as a whole.

So once it was noticed that the engine is unstable on gas, when switching to gas, the engine stalled, and there was simply no idle. Among other things, the dynamics worsened, traction disappeared, gas consumption increased and dips appeared during acceleration. Moreover, the above-described "glitches" were manifested, as a rule, "on cold". After some time after the engine warmed up to the optimum temperature, all these “sores” practically disappeared.

The problem did not allow to live and drive any car. Having rummaged through the Internet, I found similar cases, as well as reviews of those who “won” this problem. Suspicion fell on the filter (how to change filters and drain condensate is written here and here), as well as gas injectors. The filters were replaced, by the way, during the replacement, a large amount of resin was found in the filter elements, this alerted and made me think. If there are so many “kaki” in the filters, then what is in the gas injectors? The decision was made - it is necessary to clean the gas injectors, as well as their further calibration. What came of this - read on.

1. The first step is to shut off the gas supply, for this we twist one or two valves on the gas cylinder.

2. We start the car and let it work in order to relieve the pressure in the gas lines and use up the remaining gas.

3. We dismantle the gas rail with nozzles. For everyone, this process will take place in its own way, it all depends on the brand of injectors and the type of engine.

4. Next, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws and take out the gas nozzles.

5.We remove the rods from the nozzle body. The photo shows the reason for all my troubles - resinous deposits, they even did not allow the nozzles to function fully. When the engine is cold and the injectors are cold, the viscous resin interfered with the proper stroke of the gas injector stem.

6. Using cotton swabs and alcohol (you can also use a solvent), wipe the stems, as well as what is inside the bodies.

7. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

1. Unscrew the jets from the ramp.

2. We take out the corresponding power plug.

3. Instead of a jet, we install a special adapter into which a micrometer will be installed.

4. Next, set the micrometer, look at the arrow, if it starts to move, then the armature has come into contact with the micrometer rod.

5. Install the plug into the gas injector coil.

6. We knock down the micrometer readings to zero.

7. Apply 12V power to the coil for 1 second or less.

8. We write down the value shown by the device.

[quote = "Ivan Ivanov; 939242 ″] The only reason is rubber membranes. [/ quote] So for this, such an optimal transition was made, we even put 49.8 to hedge the gearbox and nozzles, but in severe frosts, nozzles can leak. [ COLOR = Silver]

[/ COLOR] [quote = ”fell palych; 939238 ″] 29 deg. For example? What limits the lower temperature bar? What is fraught with? Could this harm something and how? [/ Quote] Palych, you are a person who understands and you have a program and a cord, you can translate it for yourself, just before winter do not forget to switch it back to a high temperature. Also set the gas temperature to 0 for insurance degrees to switch back to gasoline, the program is -10 degrees.

I ask for help: On gas, the speed of XX is approaching 0, the engine twitches with gas smells, everything is OK on the move, as I translate it to gasoline, the same thing, shaking, but if I drive a little on gasoline everything becomes normal, idle 500-600 nothing shakes works smoothly. We made a diagnosis: the diagnostician turned on the injectors one by one and it seemed like the 4th and 6th nozzles were not ice, but I seem to be working. I'll try to clean it with ultrasound.

Question: maybe because of 2 nozzles that work, but there are bad symptoms or is it some kind of sensor that composts the brain?

BRC sequent FAST (thought 56, but turned out to be FAST)

[quote = "BahuS; 939249"] the diagnostician switched on the nozzles in turn and it seems like the 4th and 6th nozzles are not ice, but I seem to be working. and the hose, it makes such a shake. [COLOR = ”Silver”]

[/ COLOR] And also check the pressure, if there is a GENIUS reducer, they like to increase the pressure a lot, you can kill the catalyst, and the SENS PRES P1 sensor may also fail.

[quote = "BahuS; 939310 ″] Cleaning the injectors can help? [/ quote] Try it, it may not help.

[quote = ”BahuS; 939310 ″] As I understand it, due to the fact that they let gas in a closed state, gas can stink in the cabin, right? [/ quote] Yes, it can stink because of this.

[quote = ”Ivan Ivanov; 939242 ″] The only reason is rubber membranes. [/ quote]
Hey! What membranes are you talking about? In the gearbox? I want to understand the physical process, why is it bad for membranes if I reduce the transition by only 10 degrees? Are they tearing due to the loss of elasticity?
[quote = ”BORI; 939244 ″] So for this, such an optimal transition was made, we even put 49.8 to hedge the gearbox and injectors, but in severe frosts, injectors can leak. [/ quote]
And also because of what the injectors can leak? I suppose if a poorly vaporized gas fraction gets there? Or is something freezing?

[quote = ”BORI; 939244 ″] Palych, you are a person who understands and you have a program and a cord, you can translate for yourself, just before winter do not forget to switch back to a high temperature. [/ quote]
I just experienced it at the transition to 30 degrees, I probably crossed a minute later, I just drove away from the yard, at an initial temperature of 23 degrees, otherwise I was driving almost a kilometer. It so happened that at 750 km mileage, every time 10 liters of gasoline was refueled, which is 16 euros on average.And in winter there is much more, almost twice, although the average frost is -5 -12 in winter, only a month and a half, and sometimes the whole winter is a plus.
I also noticed that when I bought myself a scanner, I finally connected to the OBD and I see that the engine temperature is growing twice as fast as the temperature of the gearbox during warm-up, and then 8-10 degrees higher than the gearbox! That's where the fast switch reserve is! Or put a pump that adds the flow rate, or connect the gearbox closer to the motor, and mine, although it is connected with thick hoses, is still two 70 centimeters each. I did not expect that such a drop in the flow in temperature would be!

[QUOTE = BORI; 939319] Try it, it may not help.

Yes, it may stink because of this. [/ QUOTE]

And where can you order injectors for less than 2500 per piece if flushing does not help? I have orange, which model of nozzles or happiness is not in color?

[quote = "pal palych; 939323 ″] connect the gearbox closer to the motor, [/ quote] I always try to connect it closer, and the hoses are shorter, and so I blow less cold air. the pump is good, but the design becomes more complicated and becomes more expensive. Look for a pump from VWT4 on disassembly for a cool piece. [COLOR = ”Silver”]

[/ COLOR] [quote = ”BahuS; 939341 ″] I have orange, this is what model of nozzles [/ quote] Orange is MAX, by color they are divided by power. We have 35 euros in the purchase.

[/ COLOR] Orange is MAX, they are divided by color by power. We have 35 euros in purchase. [/ QUOTE]
you have it far, although the day after tomorrow I am going to Odessa through Kiev, but there will be no money for the nozzles (((((Can you tell me something new for diagnostics)?

[B] BahuS [/ B], there is no point in cleaning the ultrasound, the gaps and holes are not there. If I were you, I would first check the fuel trims. Then the force swapped places with the obviously workers, in order to make sure
in their malfunction.

[B] fell palych [/ B], in vain you climbed there, that unfortunate 1 km will not give you much savings, but the gasoline forces took time for self-cleaning significantly. Later, spend more on cleaning the benzofor.

[quote = ”Peter; 939392 ″] in vain you climbed there, that unfortunate 1 km will not give you much savings, but the gasoline forces took the time for self-cleaning significantly. Later, spend more on cleaning the gasoline engine. [/ Quote] They have good gasoline, and the gasoline engines will practically not clog up, and no one cleans them there. gas 15 hail. and start immediately on gas and runs 300,000t.km. and everything works fine. [COLOR = ”Silver”]

[/ COLOR] [quote = ”Peter; 939392 ″] there is no point in cleaning the ultrasound, the gaps and holes are not there. [/ Quote] Sometimes cleaning helps, dirt sticks to the tip of the stop valve and on the seat, and the nozzle does not close tightly and starts poison gas and the dosage is violated.

[quote = ”pal palych; 939323 ″] Hello! What membranes are you talking about? In the gearbox? I want to understand the physical process, why is it bad for membranes if I reduce the transition by only 10 degrees? Are they tearing because of the loss of elasticity? [/ Quote]

Hello. Look, when the gas evaporates (the moment itself), there is a sharp local cooling to subzero temperatures. This is if the gearbox is not sufficiently heated by the coolant to positive temperatures with a margin. Why is it necessary with a margin? Again, when the liquid gas expands, it takes a lot of heat from the nearby surrounding parts and from the membrane. That is, it is possible to reach negative temperatures. The rubber becomes hard and brittle. Over and over again, it eventually bursts. I'm not even talking about such an unfortunate (unlikely) case as the passage of the liquid phase to the nozzle valves and the evaporation of gas on their membranes. [COLOR = ”Silver”]

[/ COLOR] [quote = "fell palych; 939323 ″] I also noticed when I bought myself a scanner, I finally connected to the OBD and I see that the engine temperature is growing twice as fast as the gearbox temperature during warm-up, and then by 8-10 degrees higher than the reducer! That's where the fast switch reserve is! Or put a pump that adds the flow rate, or connect the gearbox closer to the motor, and mine, although it is connected with thick hoses, is still two 70 centimeters each.I did not expect what a drop in flow in terms of temperature is [/ quote]

This is not a drop in flow, but a strong extraction of heat by the evaporating gas. It will always be cooler than the coolant. This is the norm.

[/ COLOR] Sometimes cleaning helps, dirt sticks to the tip of the stop valve and on the seat, and the nozzle does not close tightly and begins to poison the gas and the dosage is disturbed. [/ QUOTE]
I think ultrasonic cleaning for free will not be superfluous, mobiles filled with beer cleans with a bang)))))

[quote = "BahuS; 939468 ″] I think ultrasonic cleaning for free will not be superfluous, it cleans mobile phones filled with beer with a bang))))) [/ quote]

With one small “but”. Ultrasound quite often peels off the turns of the coils. After which they no longer work. But this is just "maybe" - nothing more.

[quote = ”pal palych; 939238 ″] To all the Gurus from BRC one more question:
By default, in the settings from the factory, my program is set to switch to gas from a temperature of 39.8 degrees at the initial cold start. Why exactly? [/ Quote]
The default switch-on temperature is set by the manufacturer not only for propane, but also for methane, do not forget about this, this is the first thing.
Second, the equipment is sold to countries with different climates, somewhere summer is almost all year round, and somewhere winter happens, moreover, every year, so the manufacturer has chosen the lowest possible switching temperature.
As practice shows, with our climate, the switch-on temperature is set to 50 degrees, which corresponds to about 70 degrees of engine temperature. [COLOR = ”Silver”]

[/ COLOR] [quote = ”denisa; 938586 ″] yes, tell me how to fill it in the table. [/ quote]
Do you have ticks in the table, are there any numbers in it?

[quote = "paly palych; 939526"] I thought about it, but it's not in vain that I have a massive "brick" GENIUS -MAH, so that it can be sharply cooled from +30, set by me, to a minus, it must probably be heavily immersed on the pedal gas, which I never have until the engine is warmed up. [/ quote]

For experience, press heat to it and see how soon it will be covered with frost))))))))))))