DIY Lovato HBO nozzle repair

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 07 Mar 2010

What color do you have, blue or black? I also began to troit on a cold one, 1 and 4 nozzles do not turn on at all for about 10 minutes, then they turn on and crack. on the highway more than 80 km / h you dial and turn off the 4 cylinder.

It was buggy for me too. It turned out to be not the case. But simply the reducer did not warm up to normal temperature and the gas was blown not in a gaseous state, but in a liquid one. I redid the heating from the stove and began to shove (and before that, more than 70 was in no way-showed misfires)

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 09 Mar 2010

• Like
• I do not like

vingod 09 Mar 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 09 Mar 2010

on this HBO I have already passed 100000 km. a strange trick, it was warm for a week, the nozzles of my brain soared in the morning, today the frost hit, so it switched to gas without any problems, not a hint of gaps.

so why shouldn't I go there myself?

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 09 Mar 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 09 Mar 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 09 Mar 2010

• Like
• I do not like

balu833 13 Mar 2010

I went to the service, the gas pressure was low, the type membrane stretched out.

yes, in the service, the repair of gas injectors is 150r apiece, but the most deficit is the springs on the injectors, and so I installed the equipment myself and adjust it myself

I have the same problem. The nozzle clicks. Disassembled but did not find the damper ring. Valtek injectors. Tell me where it is installed. And if you can take a photo.

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 30 March 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 09 Apr 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 12 Apr 2010

they propose to replace the entire ramp from OMVL, it costs 2500r. who faced, Lovatovsky's brain will not kick?

look at the resistance, if the same, then he will not notice

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus 12 Apr 2010

• Like
• I do not like

Andryukha73rus Apr 16, 2010

• Like
• I do not like

denisgbo 26 Oct 2010

you can go if the injectors knock.

Did you start knocking or did you keep knocking with novya all the time? What are the nozzles?

Hello. I am glad to welcome you to the site about the gas-cylinder equipment GBOshnik. Today we'll talk about gas injectors, about how at home clean the gas injectors, and also how adjust the LPG nozzles with your own hands, using a micrometer.

Everyone knows that not only gasoline and diesel fuel are “badyazh” in our country. A long time ago, gas filling stations learned to “inflate” our brother, and not with gas, but with air, mixing various muck into the gas fuel, which adversely affects the state of the gas equipment and the entire engine as a whole.

So once it was noticed that the engine is unstable on gas, when switching to gas, the engine stalled, and there was simply no idle. Among other things, the dynamics worsened, traction disappeared, gas consumption increased and dips appeared during acceleration. Moreover, the above-described "glitches" were manifested, as a rule, "on cold". After some time after the engine warmed up to the optimum temperature, all these “sores” practically disappeared.

The problem did not allow to live and drive any car. Having rummaged through the Internet, I found similar cases, as well as reviews of those who “won” this problem. Suspicion fell on the filter (how to change filters and drain condensate is written here and here), as well as gas injectors. The filters were replaced, by the way, during the replacement, a large amount of resin was found in the filter elements, this alerted and made me think. If there are so many “kaki” in the filters, then what is in the gas injectors? The decision was made - it is necessary to clean the gas injectors, as well as their further calibration. What came of this - read on.

1. The first step is to shut off the gas supply, for this we twist one or two valves on the gas cylinder.

2. We start the car and let it work in order to relieve the pressure in the gas lines and use up the remaining gas.

3. We dismantle the gas rail with nozzles.For everyone, this process will take place in its own way, it all depends on the brand of injectors and the type of engine.

4. Next, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws and take out the gas nozzles.

5. Remove the rods from the nozzle body. The photo shows the reason for all my troubles - resinous deposits, they even did not allow the nozzles to function fully. When the engine is cold and the injectors are cold, the viscous resin interfered with the proper stroke of the gas injector stem.

6. Using cotton swabs and alcohol (you can also use a solvent), wipe the stems, as well as what is inside the bodies.

7. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

1. Unscrew the jets from the ramp.

2. We take out the corresponding power plug.

3. Instead of a jet, we install a special adapter into which a micrometer will be installed.

4. Next, set the micrometer, look at the arrow, if it starts to move, then the armature has come into contact with the micrometer rod.

5. Install the plug into the gas injector coil.

6. We knock down the micrometer readings to zero.

7. Apply 12V power to the coil for 1 second or less.

8. We write down the value shown by the device.

It so happens that the resource of one or several gas injectors is coming to an end. This is manifested in the fact that the machine, when operating on a gas mixture, begins to triple, there is a loss of power, unstable engine operation and a characteristic "clatter" of one or more gas injectors. It is this "clatter" that appears after the wear of the O-rings and rubber bands on the rods and means that it is time to repair the gas injectors.

Repair of VALTEK gas injectors implies several simple steps, namely:

• removing the ramp from the car;
• disassembly of the ramp and all its components;
• replacement of rods, springs and rubber rings with new ones from rem. kit;
• subsequent assembly of injectors and their adjustment;
• installing the ramp back to the vehicle.

First of all, to remove the ramp from the car, you should shut off the gas supply to the LPG main by shutting off the flow valve on the gas cylinder.

• To produce all the gas from the main, for this, with the valve closed, start the car and wait for the switch to gasoline, then forcibly switch the system to gas operation two or three more times.
• Before disconnecting the wires and removing the ramp, it is imperative to outline which wire belonged to which of the gas coils. This can be done with a marker or colored tape. When assembling, you must accurately determine the belonging of the wire to this or that coil.

• Unscrew the fasteners and remove the ramp. When unscrewing the clamps, you will hear the release of gas residues - this is a normal situation.
• Unscrew the calibration jets with a 12 key.

• Remove the corkscrews by folding them neatly so as not to get lost. Remove the coils. If you made notes with a marker on the coils, mark which coil was in what place so that you do not confuse them during assembly. If you made notes on the ramp itself, the order of installing the coils can be disregarded.

• Using a 14 wrench, unscrew the guides and carefully remove them. If one rod is replaced, during disassembly, it is imperative to designate a pair of rod - seat, so that they do not mix up during assembly. If all parts are replaced, then the order may not be followed. Remove the rods and springs from the guide.

• Carry out a visual inspection of the rods and rubber bands to determine if a repair kit should be used or not. If the rubber band is completely worn out, metal-to-metal contact occurs, resulting in a characteristic "clatter" sound.

• If the rod itself has a satisfactory appearance, you can replace only the rubber band and the spring (also in case of wear), for this, remove the old rubber band from the rod with a sharp object (awl) and put a new one in its place. If the mileage of the injectors is significant, the stem should also be replaced.

• Carefully inspect and replace worn parts with new ones on all injectors, and then reassemble the ramp in the reverse order.

Read how to do it yourself here!

The repair of the gas injectors has been completed. If you have any questions about the repair process, ask them in the comments to the article and we will be happy to answer them.

Driving gas-fueled cars, drivers often encounter incorrect operation or LPG breakdowns. The efficiency of this equipment largely depends on the health of the gas injectors. Their operation takes place under conditions of exposure to high temperatures, and sometimes low-quality fuel.

Owners of vehicles running on gas are advised to know how to repair, clean and adjust the 4th generation LPG gas injectors with their own hands. This will help in some situations and save money.

Gas injectors are special LPG units that are responsible for the dosage of fuel, in fact, they are high-speed valves. Thanks to their correct operation, the required ratio of the gas-air mixture in the internal combustion engine is ensured. Such mechanisms began to be used in the 4th generation of HBO.

Some of the most popular are stock models from Valtek (Valtek), Rail (Reil), Digitronic (Digitronic), OMVL (OMVL), Lovato (Lovato). Their undoubted plus is that they are easy to repair, which consists in flushing, replacing a repair kit and adjusting, in contrast to non-separable injectors like BRC (BRS), Barracuda (Barracuda) and the like.

Symptoms of a malfunction of one or more injectors may include:

1. high fuel consumption;
2. deterioration of the dynamic characteristics of the machine;
3. unstable engine operation, troit of the internal combustion engine (one or a pair of injectors does not work);
4. failures when pressing the gas pedal;
5. malfunctions of various sensors, appearance of “Check engine” errors (for example, MAC sensor);
6. knocking in the nozzles (loudly "clatter");
7. gas leaks through injectors (pouring / poisoning);
8. the car stops idling, the injectors do not turn on.

The reasons for this may be:

• wear of damper rubber rings on the valve stems (because of this, the nozzles knock);
• development of the seat (seat) of the valve or its locking rubber;
• wear of a rod (also called a piston, an anchor) or a liner (aka a core, a cylinder, a bulb);
• jamming of the anchor in the cylinder;
• weakening of the elasticity of the piston return spring;
• failure of the electromagnetic coil (solenoid);
• violation of the integrity of the wiring.

All of the above reasons may appear naturally or due to low-quality parts, untimely maintenance of gas equipment, violation of the rules for installing injectors. So, for example, without replacing the LPG filters on time, gas condensate (oily liquid, water, dirt) can get into the nozzles, which can cause their wedging or accelerated wear.

Also, the horizontal position during installation affects the uneven wear (ellipse) of the sleeve body and stem. And the banal non-observance of the rules for installing wires (twisting instead of soldering, mixing up, improper fastening) can cause problems over time.
One way or another, but nozzles of this type rarely live up to 70 thousand km. mileage without repair (change of a repair kit). It all depends on the conditions of their operation.

A detailed check of the gas injectors (injection / opening time, throughput) is possible only when connecting diagnostic equipment, as well as after dismantling the entire ramp and checking it on a special stand in a car service. Or build a homemade stand.

It is possible to independently identify which injector does not work and the presence of leaks (tightness) is possible only by alternately disconnecting the connectors / chips and removing the hoses from the outlet fittings. It is highly discouraged to use such methods!

To repair the 4th generation LPG injectors of the Valtek or OMVL type, for this you need to remove the entire rail assembly:

• shut off the gas supply to the cylinder. To do this, you need to turn on the corresponding valve of the multivalve;
• start the engine for a while to use up fuel residues from the system;
• disconnect the battery terminals;
• disconnect hoses and power supply;
• by unscrewing the vibration dampers, remove the gas train.

In order to disassemble and flush the nozzle (consider the example of Valtek type 30), you need:

1. using a 12 key, unscrew the calibration jets / nozzles from the bottom of the ramp;
2. use round-nose pliers or a screwdriver to remove the locking rings of the coils;
3. dismantle the coils;
4. unscrew (key 14) the valve cores and remove the pistons from them.

Next, you need to check for wear: rubber parts, valve seats and stems with sleeves.

Important! If it is intended only to clean the gas injectors, without replacing parts, it is imperative to assemble all the elements in their places without confusing them. Also, in this case, it will help to extend the life of the nozzles - if you turn over the spilled locking rubber bands on the rods.

Carry out a defect identification of parts. Identify the squeezed rubber rings, bumpers and seals, also check the cylinders and anchors for wear. The valve elastic should not have large recesses from the seat. The saddle also shrinks over time. Discard unsuitable parts.

Then clean the parts of the nozzles from dirt deposits, it is convenient to do this with a rag, cotton swabs. Using a carburetor cleaner (carbokliner), acetone, gasoline or other similar products.
Rubber products (if it is decided not to change), you need to remove, it is impossible to wash them with aggressive substances. Rubber can swell from such compounds. For the same reason, it is not advisable to clean / rinse nozzles (non-separable) such as Hana, Barracuda, Brc, the effect of such cleaning is enough for a short time, if at all they will work after that.

A repair kit for gas injectors, as a rule, is completed only with rubber products (RTI), a rod and a spring, for one injector or the entire ramp. You can also buy a complete set of parts (rods with core bodies and return springs assembled). It happens all separately. On average, the price of a standard repair kit for one rail will be about 500 rubles.

Based on numerous reviews from drivers, for Valtek injectors, and this is LPG Tech, GREEN GAS (Green Gas), Atiker (Atiker), WentGas (Ventgas), Tomasetto (Tomasetto), Yota (iota), Digitronic (Digitronic), even Lovato ( Lovato), original RAIL repair kits are best suited.

The peculiarity of the r / c is that their piston has a hole in the body, this solution reduces the effect of the syringe. If the choice fell on another manufacturer, you should pay attention to the lack of magnetic properties of the metal of the parts (this should not be), dimensions, weight.

The whole replacement process consists in assembling the block of mechanisms in the reverse order:

1. if the pistons are not changed, then remove from the seats on the rods and replace the rings (rubber dampers / bumpers);
2. install (new / old) anchors and return springs in the sleeves;
3. change the O-rings of the stem stroke adjusting screw, as well as under the coil and core;
4. screw the sleeves into the rail;
5. put on coils, retaining rings.

It is recommended to use all seals once. Calibration outlet / nipples do not need to be installed at this stage.

The adjustment of the 4th generation LPG gas injectors of the Valtek type is reduced to adjusting the stroke for uniform dosing of fuel.

There is a calibration option, using a factory or home-made stand for checking and calibrating gas injectors; not even all service stations have such equipment.

Do-it-yourself calibration of gas injectors is performed with a micrometer device with an extension sleeve / sleeve and a thread on it corresponding to the thread of the dosing nozzle, it is also a dial indicator with a scale of 0.01 mm (it is completed with depth gauges, bore gauges).

You will also need a 4-12 V power supply (for example, a battery or a power supply), a piece of wire with a connector to the injector and a button for a short-term impulse so that the injector coil does not burn out (remember that the solenoid resistance is 1-3 ohms).

1. fix the micrometer to the ramp;
2. make sure that the indicator rod touches the injector armature;
3. apply power to the coil for up to 1 second (ideally, you first need to run several cycles to warm up and shrink the damping rings);
4. set the value on the device to 0;
5. in this way, adjust the plunger stroke. By turning the core screw clockwise, the gap decreases, counterclockwise - increases. It is necessary to achieve the same values ​​on all valves.

Below is a table for calibrating the armature travel of Valtek gas injectors, depending on the power of the power unit:

After some time valves started to work loudly, while the engine worked fine, flawlessly. But a few days ago, when switching to gas, the engine began to triple, and the ChecK Engine caught fire... At the same time, the engine runs flawlessly on gasoline. It follows from this that all the blame for HBO, namely the injector valve.

One of the nozzles clicked very loudly... By disconnecting the coil, it became clear which cylinder was not working. In order not to contact the masters and not pay, I decided to repair the valves of the LPG gas injectors with my own hands.

To do this, first I had to disassemble the injector valve... At the same time, it turned out that the locking elastic band located on the core was intact, but damper ring worn out, which led to the fact that the core was constantly knocking with metal on metal. On the rest of the valves, the damper rings were in order, only on the inoperative cylinder the ring was worn out. After that I decided to replace the damper ring, in the hope that it would help. Rem. the kit costs about 120 rubles, but we managed to find it directly damper rings 5 ​​rubles apiece... After the purchase, I replaced the ring on the inoperative valve, started the car, switched to gas - everything works perfectly, there is no clanking sound, the engine does not troit.

It's obvious that a worn out damper ring directly affected the quality of the core rebound, and as a result, the electronics turned off the valve that was not working correctly... In my case, the gas train served 37.5 thousand km without repair.

This is how the HBO injector valve was repaired with our own hands.

This material was taken from one of the specialized forums, its reliability has not been confirmed.

In 2017, more and more drivers are switching to LPG. This is due to the fact that the price of gasoline and diesel is growing steadily at a rapid pace. This trend is leading vehicle owners to look for ways to save on maintenance costs. However, the installation and maintenance of vehicles equipped with LPG equipment also require some repair and maintenance costs.

One of the most common reasons for the failure of such equipment is the breakdown of injectors. Therefore, every owner of vehicles with LPG needs to understand the models and know which ones are best suited for installation. Let's take a look at the positive and negative sides of Lovato gas injectors, as well as find out their technical characteristics.

Before proceeding directly to an overview of the technical characteristics of products manufactured under the Lovato brand, let's understand the general principle of its operation. This is necessary in order to better understand the big picture and be able to make the right choice at the right time.

The essence of the work of all injectors is quite simple, and is as follows. The solenoid valve located in the product regulates the flow of the gas mixture from the vehicle's gearbox to the intake manifold.The main difference in the operation of injectors from different companies is the time interval required to open and close the valve, as well as in the resistance value of the electromagnetic coils installed in them.

Lovato is an Italian-based company that is one of the largest manufacturers in the automotive gas equipment market. Its products have been in great demand for over 60 years and have received positive reviews from both professionals and consumers.

Note! The company, when creating its equipment, uses advanced technologies and high-quality materials, which is reflected in the high reliability of the equipment produced.

Below are the advantages of Lovato products, which are characteristic of all models, and favorably distinguish them from their competitors:

The disadvantages include not the lowest price that a company asks for its equipment. Also, the disadvantages include an increased noise level compared to other competitors, which is noted by drivers using the products of this brand.

Installation of injectors and other systems included in the LPG system is best left to specialists. This will significantly increase the quality of work performed and the safety of the installation. However, not all drivers can afford to service cars in expensive services and use the services of specialists. In this case, during installation, it is advisable to be guided by the following generally accepted requirements:

1. One of the most important factors affecting the performance of products is their location. So, for example, injectors, the gas supply of which is realized on the side of their stem, it is better not to install the coils downwards. This arrangement will quickly lead to their breakdown.
2. Remember to install a vapor phase filter. It will allow your equipment to work much longer and save you from trouble.
3. They need to be fixed in such a position that they are exposed to vibration and contact with other parts of your vehicle as little as possible.

For self-configuration, you must perform the following operations:

1. We shut off the gas supply.
2. We start the car and let it run for a while. This is necessary in order to relieve pressure and remove residual gas from the system.
3. We remove the rail with the nozzles installed on it.
4. We unscrew the jets.
5. We remove the power plug corresponding to the adjustable injector.
6. In place of the jet, we install an adapter and insert a micrometer into it.
7. As soon as the arrow starts to move on it, it means that the armature has come into contact with the micrometer rod.
8. We connect the plug to the coil of the tested injector.
9. We reset his readings.
10. We supply power equal to 12 V to the coil with a duration equal to 1 second.
11. We write down the obtained values.
12. After checking all the injectors, set their value to 0.6-0.7. This is done by turning the bolt under the hexagon, which is the armature stroke regulator. Rotate counterclockwise to increase, and clockwise to decrease.

Important! If money allows you, it is better not to do the setting yourself, but to entrust it to specialists. It won't take you much time and money, but it will be much safer and better for your vehicle.