DIY nikon coolpix camera repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a nikon coolpix camera from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Who disassembled the first SLR camera in life, it might seem that half a bucket of various screws and screws had been unscrewed. We will not describe each screw in detail. We will omit some aspects of the disassembly, because, trust me, somewhere on the seventieth screw, you will get bored, you will lose interest in the article and we will not get to the most important thing - the inner filling of the camera.

When starting to repair electronic equipment, first of all, you must turn off the power. In case of repairing a DSLR - remove the battery from the camera compartment.

The Nikon D5100 battery type is EN-EL14 Li-ion 7.4 V 1030 mAh, this type of battery is also used in the D3100 SLR camera and Nikon COOLPIX P700 digital camera.

In order to dismantle the rear part of the case, unscrew the screws on the lower part of the camera case, on the right and left sides, in other words, everything that is around the perimeter of the case.

Unforgettable about one hidden screw under the rubber pad (thumb grip), as shown in the photo above.

Carefully dismantle the back of the case. Remember that the back cover is still held by two cables.

First, we lift the connector latch and remove the cable going to the control buttons, then carefully disconnect the display cable from the motherboard, as shown in the photo above.

In the next part we will look at the composition of the Nikon D5100 DSLR mainboard ...

Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.

Video (click to play).

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models. Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty).The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not correct the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to aid in those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling.Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.

We are now entering the area of potentially dangerous camera rescue methods. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.

Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may want to consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button.Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

I looked on the Internet for methods of repairing the battery compartment cover and was surprised that I did not find such an easy way that I solved this problem myself.

In this post I want to share how you can fix the battery cover in the Nikon Coolpix L22 when the latches are broken. Judging by the reviews on the Internet, this breakdown is quite common and on the same Internet there are various ways to solve this problem.

At first, I myself acted like this - putting in new batteries, fixed the lid with a drop of superglue, and when it was necessary to replace the batteries, pry off the lid, rip off the glue and everything repeated, but at some point I got tired of it, and I came up with a simple fixing method. About this in detail and with a photo

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The process of obtaining a high-quality photograph initially required a lot of skill and experience. With the invention of digital cameras, a new era began in photography. Anyone can capture a moment in digital format and, if desired, transfer their work to paper or photo frame.

First, the room must be practically sterile. Otherwise, a speck that gets on the matrix or internal lenses of the photo lens will spoil all your photographs.
Secondly, it is desirable to have good illumination of the table surface on which the digital camera will be disassembled. You will be surprised how small screws hold the internal parts of the camera.
The third condition is preliminary disassembly of the digital camera for troubleshooting, as a result of which a large number of small screws of various sizes and the parts of the lens with lenses and a photo matrix are stored in disassembled form until the purchase of the part instead of the faulty one.

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Can someone tell me what. After turning on the camera, the trigger spontaneously works. If it's not difficult, tell me the cost of the repair.

It looks like a short-circuited release button. If, when you press it, two positions are clearly felt, then it suggests that moisture has entered. If not, then the button itself is to blame. For repairs, fill out the profile from where you are geographically. You look, and the master's fellow countrymen will be found. ...

where necroposters come from.

Love you, masters, to take a bunch of dough for nonsense. It is clear that for a blow with a hammer a ruble, and for knowing where to strike - 99 rubles. But, for banal sour contacts to tear more than in Europe (I know what I am saying) God will not order. Now, if you need to do something with the replacement of parts, I will definitely contact you.

After the camera was dropped, the following defect appeared:

In this case, the camera shoots and focusing works, the defect is only with the visible area.

After the camera was dropped, the following defect appeared:

In this case, the camera shoots and focusing works, the defect is only with the visible area.

We unscrew all the screws around the perimeter of the camera, two screws near the display leg.

Remove the microphone cover and under it unscrew the screw in the center (silver)

Carefully remove the back cover and disconnect all cables.

Unscrew the screws shown by the red arrow and remove the metal shield.
We unsolder the wires in the red rectangles and the green rectangle. It is advisable to sketch which wire where to solder.
After that, we remove the main board and see the matrix (sensor) which was knocked out of its place by the impact. The matrix should easily move about the lens axis horizontally and vertically. A clear sign of matrix sticking is its immobility.

We carefully put the matrix in place and assemble in the reverse order.

PS Initially, the camera visited a Nikon service center, where, after two weeks of diagnostics, a verdict was issued - replacing the lens for 7000 rubles. (How and with what was diagnosed? It is not clear)
Bottom line: 0 rubles and 2.5 hours of fiddling, saving 7000 rubles and 2 weeks minus 2.5 hours

On the Nikon Coolpix L21 camera, the battery compartment cover turned out to be a weak point, after two years of use the latches on it broke and the cover stopped closing.

A new cover for the nikon coolpix L21 can be bought online for $ 10 with shipping, which is too expensive for such a camera. At first I tried to repair the broken latches, but after a week they broke again. Then I used scotch tape, but it didn't look pretty, and the scotch tape only lasted a couple of hours.

Basically I repaired the Nikon Coolpix L21 battery cover with a fishing line and a hook. Now it is a little inconvenient to close it, but it holds well, and you don't have to open the lid so often.

In general, how I did everything. I drilled three holes in the battery compartment lid, two near the edge of the lid and one near attaching the lid to the body - where he drilled it can be seen in the photo (you can click to enlarge). Then he took the fishing hook and bit off the tip with the nippers, the tip must be bite off completely and finished with a file so that there is no too sharp edge.I tied a fishing line with a diameter of 0.3 to the hook, but you can take a thicker one.

I ran the fishing line through the battery cover as shown in the photo. After that, I closed the lid, roughly measured the amount of line required to close the lid tightly and secured the edge with a screw, which is located on the camera body next to the battery compartment cover.

The fishing line has the ability to stretch, so the length must be selected experimentally so that when the hook is put on the eye for the lace, the fishing line tightly holds the battery cover.

That's all. I did it.) Of course, it is a little inconvenient to put on the hook and the lid does not fit snugly, but with the help of a key or a small plate it can be put on without problems, and the loose fit of the lid does not affect the performance.
If I poorly described the principle of repair, then I think everything will become clear if you look at the photo.

From the article you will find out how things are going with the repair of Nikon SLR cameras in Ukraine.

It is not difficult: the circuitry of Nikon cameras is thought out, high quality of material and workmanship.
No surprises: hidden screws, fragile parts, etc.

D80, which has problems with the programming gear.
If you are the owner of this model, starting from the 80th thousand of the shutter actuation, check the gear. In order not to miss the moment when it just bursts.

The positive is that it is repaired cheaply and quickly, it works happily ever after after the repair.
Repair takes a maximum of a day, no replacement parts are needed.

For reportage, rapid-fire models (D700, 710, 720, 750), there is a “non-return” mirror.
This is the rate of fire.
The mirror lifting mechanism wears out - it is quick and easy to change.
And it also works long and fruitfully afterwards.

The bouncing diaphragm tongue is made of delicate material and sits close to the mount.
Due to inaccurate use, the diaphragm bends and “sticks”.
This is the only thing worth considering. Applies to all models.

In terms of speed and efficiency of repairing Nikon cameras, Kiev is in the lead.
Nikons are also successfully repaired in Kharkov and Zaporozhye.

In other cities it is more difficult: cameras are often sent from Sumy, Cherkasy, Chernivtsi, Vinnitsa, Zhitomir, Odessa.
The geography is growing.

A high-quality, adequate camera.
Original parts are available in Ukraine, repair methods without replacement have been worked out and have shown themselves to be 100%.
We fix 80% of breakdowns in 2-5 days.

One way or another, all models get “for repair”.

For 10 years of repairing cameras, the master “opened” models, starting with the D70-90, and ending with the D 200, 300.

Models of type D1, D2, D3 only got to the duty replacement of the shutter from exhaustion or cleaning the matrix. It is too expensive to drop or hit them, and they do not break in any other way.

Standard breakdowns rest on mechanical wear of the shutter or its elements.
This applies to everyone.
The rest of the Nikons are workhorses.

Do not drop, do not fill - and the camera will work out every frame according to its conscience.

From the price of the part and the urgency with which you need a working camera.

How to disassemble Nikon CoolPix P7700?

About partial disassembly of Nikon Coolpix P7700 digital camera.

This video was shot during the disassembly of the Nikon Coolpix P7700 camera, which was undertaken to inspect the joystick and other camera control buttons. I apologize for the fact that the camera periodically fell out of sight. This was the first time I was taking apart a digital camera, and I had no time to think about the quality of the shooting.

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Note that different lengths of screws are used to secure the rear panel.

Actually, the main problem during disassembly was the dismantling of the left side cover, which covered the display pivot mechanism. As it turned out, it was held in place by glue, with which a thin mesh was glued to it, which protects the speaker from the external environment.

This glue, hitting the panel to which the lid was attached, glued the lid to the panel.

Under the side cover is one of the screws that secure the back cover.

To disconnect the ribbon connecting the buttons to the printed circuit board, you need to lift the latch. The latch is made of colored plastic and is located at the back of the connector.

The button and joystick panel is screwed to the back cover with four self-tapping screws.

These screws are tightened very tightly.

The joystick was not demountable.

Its mechanism is fixed to a metal panel with small flared plastic pins.

The membrane contacts of the buttons are made in one piece with a loop connecting this control panel to the camera's printed circuit board.

The post is intended for all owners of Nikon D40 with 18-135mm lens. The article warns and warns about a possible malfunction. If the lens strikes a hard surface, it may crackle. If you look at the light, you can see that the diaphragm blades are crumbling.

Repairing such a malfunction in a service center will cost a little less than the cost of a new lens. Those who are faced with the choice of renting out or buying a new one can try to repair the optics on their own.

It is better to get to the optics from the back.

Disassembly begins with unscrewing 3 screws on the bayonet and two on the contact group

Next, the mounting ring is removed along with the diaphragm lever

These are calibration pads. Most likely, back and front focus are regulated by them.

The lens group at the back is secured with three screws at the back. Three screws higher up connect the lenses into a group.

Focus mode switch and focus ring itself.

Unscrew 6 screws on the inner glass.

To remove a further group of lenses, you need a special tool. The group is deep in the lens.

There are many complaints about the auto focus motor. It is believed to be out of order frequently. In fact, it looks very reliable, which cannot be said about the diaphragm unit.

Next, you can remove the boards and the motor. This will not do much, but they will not interfere with further disassembly.

You can make your own wrench to remove the front lens.

A focusing group is visible near the front lens group. To dismantle this group of lenses, you need to loosen, or even better, completely unscrew the two screws on the guide at the rear of the lens. After that, you need to rotate the group counterclockwise and gradually push it forward.

After all these actions, you can get to the diaphragm. The crackle is caused by the small spring that closes the diaphragm. Reinstalling the spring without special skills and tools is problematic. She becomes under the petals. It is impossible to get there without disassembling the diaphragm unit.

If you assemble a lens without a spring, all of its functions, except the ability to close the aperture, are preserved.

And some more photos of the front of the lens.

Original article in English:

We recently heard about a nice new product - Nikon Coolpix S1000pj digital camera with a built-in projector. We wondered how Nikon had managed to squeeze so many things into this little device, and we decided to do what we love - take it apart!

Here's what we need:

Phillips screwdriver size # 00
plastic opening tools
special plastic spudger (spudger)
soldering iron

Important! Everything that you do - do it at your own expense. Remember: After disassembling the device, you will void the manufacturer's warranty.

Separate user manuals in English and Spanish. And for you French-Canadians, there are no instructions!
Battery charger.
A / V and USB cables.
Belt.
Nikon Software Suite CD.
Nikon remote control, model ML-L4.

This remote even lets you control the zoom and shutter from a distance.

As engineers, we decided that the first thing to do was read the user manual ...
We are touched by Nikon's concern for the well-being of ordinary people, but to write in a separate paragraph "Get the camera out of the box"? Seriously?
FAILURE of common sense.

A very simple yet stylish die-cast plastic stand allows the camera to tilt easily backwards for projection onto vertical surfaces.

The S1000pj has a single lamp projection system for viewing images in a darkened room.
The size of the image can vary from approximately 13 cm to 100 cm.
According to the specifications in the manual, the resolution of the projector is equivalent to VGA.

We at iFixit fully support the Alliance for the Restoration of the Republic rebel movement and are entirely on their side.

Help me, Obi-Wan Kenobi! You are my only hope. "

It's a shame the S1000pj's camera can't hum, whistle, or resist with waste compactors while trying to crush future Jedi.

The camera measures 99.5 x 62.5 x23 mm and weighs approximately 155 g without battery and SD memory card.

In the upper right corner of the camera, behind the lens cap is a wide-angle Nikkor lens with 5x optical zoom VR 5.0-25.0 mm and aperture ratio of 1: 3.9-5.8.

The rear panel houses a relatively large, bright 2.7-inch high-resolution LCD display.

At the top of the camera is a slider for focusing the projected image (circled in red in the picture).

Removing the rechargeable lithium-ion battery.

Battery model EN-EL12 has a capacity of 1050 mAh at 3.7 V, which provides an output power of 3.885 W. Nikon is clearly rounding up this figure.

The battery weighs approximately 22.5 g without the terminal block cover.

Our good old Phillips screwdriver helps you remove a few screws from the battery cover and memory card slot.

Lightly pry the chrome-plated plastic side panel with a plastic tool and remove it from the body.

The back panel is attached to the case with a few more screws.

We pry the panel around the perimeter with a plastic tool and remove the back panel from the case.
To our surprise, the front and back panels are made of aluminum.

The mechanical part of the buttons is attached to the back panel, and the electronic part is attached to the metal plate near the display.

The display is fixed to a metal plate with several clamping clips.

Lift the latch of the ribbon cable connector, disconnect the ribbon cable and remove the display.

Using a plastic tool, pry the speaker module out and off the metal plate.
The speaker produces pretty good sound when the camera is in projector mode.

Remove a few screws around the bottom of the open camera body.

Carefully pry up and remove the top and right camera panels.

Interestingly, the controls on the top of the camera are on a special board under the top panel. On the very top panel there are only button covers.

Carefully lift the protective steel plate off the system board.

Before removing the board, lift the ribbon retainer with the tip of a plastic spatula and disconnect the ribbon.

Pry up the top camera cable connector on the system board.

Lift up on the ribbon cable connector, disconnect the ribbon cable and remove the lens module.

Copper is an interesting choice for the rear of the lens module.

Here it is, the camera module in all its glory.

As with most compact digital cameras with optical zoom without an external telescopic lens, the inner lens group of the S1000pj lens moves perpendicular to the front surface when focusing.

Multiple movable lenses (circled in red).
CCD sensor (circled in orange).
Motorized optical zoom drive and lens tilt sensor (circled in yellow).
Iris and IS modules (circled in turquoise).

Light must pass through at least 4 glass lenses before shining on the CCD. This is the journey!

We need to disconnect a few more cables with a self-locking connector and unscrew a few more screws securing the motherboard to the case.

Disassembling this camera is not for the faint of heart - Nikon clearly does not provide user service.

We even had to unsolder several components including the cover drive, LED projector lamp, and flash lamp.

To remove the projector lens, you must first remove the flash lamp.

We unscrew a few screws ...

... And we remove the projector module.

Let's look at the inside of the projector module, without the protective cover.

The light for projecting images is provided by a very powerful LED (circled in red in the picture), which even has its own heat sink to dissipate heat to the aluminum faceplate.

After passing through the LED, the light passes through a system of filters and lenses (circled in orange).

A specially designed light reflection system directs the light emitted from the LED through a tiny reflective LCD panel (circled in yellow) onto a mirror.

Before bouncing off the tilt mirror and exiting the camera, the projected image passes through the lens focusing system (circled in blue) connected to a slider on the top panel.

We almost took the camera apart ...

Remove the auto lens cap first. The cover is motorized and opens when camera functions are activated.

Removing the front microphone is a snap after removing the cover.

On the front side of the motherboard there are microcircuits:

Samsung 925 K5W1213LCA-AK60 EDE010D5 (circled in red)
Sanyo EV4MA N1U5YNPD 0925 (outlined in orange)
D805 0921K (circled in yellow)

ADDI7000 BCPZ 0924 1644955.1 (circled in turquoise)
87F283A 8KK5P (outlined in blue)

On the back of the motherboard there are microcircuits:

MAXIM 8916I TL919 + NTAS (circled in red)
HIMAX HX8852-A 005BEG 923ES06 LCOS display controller with MIPI-compliant interface (orange outlined).
Wolfson Microelectronics WM8941G 95AEKSW mono codec with speaker drive and video buffer (circled in yellow).

Video (click to play).