Do-it-yourself olympus camera repair

In the first approximation, any digital camera consists of the following main parts and assemblies: Lens and diaphragm, a set of optical converters and mirrors and a digital matrix, a control and data storage unit.

The principle of operation of the camera is well understood from the block diagram in the figure below:

If you look at the picture above, you can clearly see that first the light flux enters the lens, then follows through the diaphragm and shutter, which dose the amount of light that hits the photosensitive elements of the matrix. Each pixel of the matrix transmits information about the intensity of the luminous flux and the light spectrum. Further, this information goes to the analog-to-digital converter. From the ADC output, the digital code through the processing unit is displayed on a digital display or saved to internal or external memory.

Service manuals for digital cameras Casio EX-P600 EX-S1 / M1, EX-S2 / M2, EX-S3, QV-3EX, EX-S770, EX-S770D, QV-100B, QV-100C, QV-4000 and on other models

FUJIFILM FINEPIX 30I, 4800 ZOOM, 4900, 50I, 6800, 6900, etc.

Digital photographic equipment BBK in the selection with manuals you will find information on disassembly, a catalog of spare parts for BBK DP710, DP810, DP830, DP850, DP1050, DP1250, etc.

Detailed service manual for LG LDC-A310 digital camera.

An article on protecting digital cameras during use, and LG GR-DV 4000 description of a malfunction with a DC / DC converter

In addition to collections with service documentation, we analyzed typical malfunctions and ways to eliminate them in Minolta cameras.

JVC GC-QX3U, JVC GC-X1E-S, JVC GC-X3E-DS, JVC GF-500EG, JVC GR-AX200EA, GR-AX210, GR-AX350, AX400EA, AX48EG, AX68EG and many other models

Repair of Olympus digital cameras associated with disassembling the camera or replacing the firmware, in order to avoid unnecessary damage, you must start with familiarizing yourself with the necessary service manual and the device for a specific camera model, which you can download from us.

A huge selection of Nikon digital photo service manuals, here is not a complete list of available technical information Nicon Coolpix 700 sm, 800, 885, 950, 3000, 3100, 3500, 4500, 5000, 5200, 7900, 8400, 9000, L1 - L20, P1 -P6000, S1-S550, D40, D50, D60, D70, D80, D200, D300, f1 - f90x, N50, N90

Sigma Nikon AF 70-300mm f4-5.6 D Macro Repair Manual

To make a good repair of your digital camera, you first need to clearly understand the structure of the camera. To begin with, you should understand that any photographic technique is first of all optics, and only then electronics.

Camera device short course of a young repairman: There is a membrane and a shutter inside the lens. The membrane consists of several petals and, when closed, reduces the caliber of the hole through which the light enters the matrix. Due to this, the amount of incident light is miniaturized and excessive illumination of the matrix is ​​prevented when the subject is clearly illuminated.

Next is a photosensitive matrix, the upper shot of which is made of glass. The photosensitive plane of the matrix is ​​located in front of the protective glass. Structurally, it consists of a large number of light-sensitive cells. Light falling on them produces a galvanic charge. After the shooting is completed, the charges that have arisen are transferred to the analog-to-digital converter. This is where digitization comes in. The digitized information is transferred to the RAM. RAM stores information only when it is on. The snapshot is located in RAM for only microseconds. It is also digitally processed - the color rendition, sharpness, saturation and other properties of the image are improved. ... The processed image is transferred to the memory card. Here the digital photo can be stored for a long time.

The main problem that arises with digital flash drives is due to contamination of the contacts. To eliminate this problem, you just need to rinse the contacts with gas alcohol, for example.

If the digicam does not turn on, check that the batteries are connected correctly and their charge level at least with a conventional tester. The current in the batteries should not be less than 1 ampere, at lower values ​​the camera runs the risk of not even turning on

The main microcontroller controls the digital camera... A visual viewfinder is located above the lens. During zooming, the distance between the lens elements changes. If there are no problems with the batteries and the fotik still does not cut in, check if power is supplied to the main microcontroller (processor) if everything is OK, you need to change it. Do not rush to open the camera without having disassembly instructions at hand, otherwise you risk damaging the mounting elements. You can download a large number of service instructions from the site https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3558

The flash unit is located on a separate board with a huge capacitor and a transformer. An LCD monitor is located on the back of the camera.

Some Common Problems and Solutions for Digital Cameras

Defective optical sensor in the lens of a digital camera or video camera: An optocoupler consists of 2 parts - a radiation source (IR LED) and a photodetector (eg photodiode, phototransistor, photothyristor). You can determine the part of the light emitter, as well as the anode and cathode of the LED, using a conventional tester. Accordingly, opposite the light emitter terminals - the photodetector terminals and, as a rule, opposite the light emitter anode terminal - the photodetector anode or collector, opposite the light emitter cathode - the photodetector cathode or emitter. Optocouplers in cameras are used in the zoom lens mechanism. When a voltage is applied to the emitter and an open light flux, the photodetector is open and the voltage at its anode or collector is zero, when the photodetector is closed, the voltage is equal to the power source. If it is not possible to check the optocoupler directly in the camera, the operability can be checked according to the following diagram.

Repair of lenses in digital cameras

A lens in a digital camera is a complex optical-mechanical device that combines elements of precision mechanics and optics. In cameras, it is most at risk of failure. Suffice it to say that about 70% of camera malfunctions are due to lens defect, and in the overwhelming case, the cause of malfunctions is the human factor, i.e. dropped, stepped on, spilled liquid, rough handling, foreign matter entering the lens drive such as sand, etc. In Canon ixus xxx cameras, if a lens malfunction occurs, after turning on the camera, after a while, the message E18 or “lens error” appears on the display, after which the unit turns off ..

I hope it is clear that getting even the smallest grain of sand between the teeth of the lens zoom mechanism drive gear will cause it to jam, and minor mechanical impact will damage the teeth of the same gears or lens pins. in the event of a malfunction in the lens, when the mechanism drive cannot “drive in”. elimination algorithm if all parts are intact, carefully disassemble and clean, if necessary replace the failed parts. Sometimes it is easier to replace the entire lens, as some parts are simply impossible to find

Typical problems arising in the CF connector

Firstly, these are broken connector pins, secondly, they can be bent, and because of this, the memory card cannot be read. The appearance of a malfunction occurs due to improper installation of the flash drive. Symptoms of manifestation can be very diverse, for example: the digicam simply does not turn on, and most likely connector pins are closed, which triggers the protection of the camera. Due to closed contacts, complications can be more dangerous, for example, a voltage converter often crashes.Also, there were often cases when the camera works well without a memory card, but after its installation it does not turn on at all. The reason is also bent contact. The camera works, but does not detect the memory card. Most likely the reason is encrypted in the broken pin of the connector.

Repair of the flash in the camera

Attention, the voltage on the flash storage capacitor is about 300 volts, if handled carelessly, you can not only get an electric shock, but also easily irrevocably ditch the camera. Discharge the flash storage capacitor every time you turn on the power. The capacitor can be discharged through a 1-2kΩ resistor.

A digital camera without a flash is not very useful for work, and it makes no sense to use it in low light conditions. Therefore, the repair of cameras with such a malfunction, as a rule, does not raise questions among users. As for the practical side of the issue: often the repair process is complicated not so much by the lack of components, but by the lack of service documentation. Unfortunately, at present there is very little technical literature devoted to the device of photo flashes, a description of the principles of operation of their electronic circuits, despite the fact that there is great interest in the device of photo flashes and, moreover, in their repair, not only among the owners of cameras, but also , often, at the workers of camera repair shops, especially in the provinces. Let's consider the operation of the flash according to the principle diagram of a film camera in Fig. 1.

The blocking circuit of the flash generator is assembled on the Q303 transistor. At the moment of switching on, the transistor is open with a negative voltage supplied through the resistor R305, the winding of the transformer T301, the open transistor Q304. As a result, a current flows through winding I of the transformer, which induces a pulse of positive polarity in winding II. It turns off transistor Q303. The current in the winding I begins to decrease. The disappearing magnetic field induces a negative polarity pulse in winding II, which again leads to the opening of the transistor.

The process is repeated continuously. Pulses of different polarity induce current in the winding III of the transformer and, rectifying by diode D302, charge capacitors C303 to a voltage of 250 - 280 volts, C302 through resistors R308 R306. When the shutter button is pressed, the sync flash fires. A positive voltage is applied to the control electrode of the SR301 thyristor, opens it and closes the capacitor C302 to the case, causing its discharge and a sharp decrease in the current in the primary winding of the T302 transformer. The disappearing magnetic field induces a high-voltage pulse in the secondary winding, causing gas breakdown in the bulb of the XE301 flash lamp and, as a result, a bright short-term glow

Schematic diagram of the flash of a digital camera from Sony DSC - P52 The same diagram of the blocking generator Q503, T501, rectifier diode D502, storage capacitor C508. The role of the key on the SR301 thyristor is performed by the field-effect transistor Q506, etc.

Lens malfunction - this must be the most common failure of digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problem”) (Kodak), “Lens> error, restart camera” or just “lens error” (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only beep, the lens moves in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even extend.

The problem is actually quite common with all digital camera models.Usually it is sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. The camera may have been turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, it was accidentally turned on in the bag). It happens that after extending the lens, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the extended lens. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens malfunctions is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials like to cling to the camera body due to frictional electrostatic charge (especially when the case is soft and fluffy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism and malfunction messages occur. I own a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

For the owner of the camera with this problem, there may be no point in contacting the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not cover this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to shock or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which are covered by the warranty). The cost of repairs is usually close to or more than what the camera actually costs. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a faulty lens for a new one, the cost of which is high as a spare part.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this trouble can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembling the camera, although some can cause other damage if overdone and careless. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty workshop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty, or to determine how much they will charge for paid repairs. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they list an amount that is higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in the order shown. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should be considered only for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repair in which is lower than in the warranty.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and # 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to low battery power when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try locating and selecting “reset” to reset the camera to its original position. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option and thus the parameter may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely discharged while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert it into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as it causes a reset in some models. Error E30 (for old Canon) means that you have no card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio / video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD remains off while the process begins. Thus, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in bridging dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If the AV cable does not correct the lens error on its own, I consider keeping that cable installed on the line when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means of providing extra power to aid in those attempts. But please note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is being extended. Hopefully, while the lens is extending and the AF lens is moving, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a rubber blower to blow out the gaps between the lens cups with compressed air. The idea is to blow out sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other options for blowing out are using a hair dryer in cold mode or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some people use a vacuum cleaner for this.

We are now entering the area of ​​potentially dangerous camera rescue methods. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you actually notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow does not help knock them out, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Take special care not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I do not recommend going too deep around the lens barrel with paper (do not go deeper than 1 cm). I especially do not recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust pad that sits just inside this gap.

Method 6: Hit the rubber USB cover repeatedly with the intention of knocking out any particles that might be obstructing the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report the success of this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities of damage or displacement of internal components using this method, such as loose cables from connectors, or cracked LCD screens.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens facing down, try to “gently” tap the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that might interfere with the movement of the lens frames. Try turning the camera on and off at the same time while you are doing this.

Method 7a: Note that this correction method is intended only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops, passing part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens barrel at its most extended position, preventing the lens from returning. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again to prevent it from coming back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to see if the problem has gone away.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just keep in mind that this is absolutely the last method before discarding your camera, and there is obvious potential for further damage to the camera with this method. You may want to consider this technique if the lens is visibly and clearly damaged, bent, or distorted, such as from dropping. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a dislocated shoulder. Try forcing the lens to straighten and snap back into place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will be in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a “click” confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further efforts at this point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other method.

Variations on Method 7b: Gently pull, rotate, and / or twist the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or align the barrels if they are bent or kinked. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest clearance (note that pushing the lens barrel all the way in is not recommended as it may get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to the "click", which means the pins of the glasses hit the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

The process of obtaining a high-quality photograph initially required a lot of skill and experience. With the invention of digital cameras, a new era began in photography. Anyone can capture a moment in digital format and, if desired, transfer their work to paper or photo frame.

• First, the room must be practically sterile. Otherwise, a speck that gets on the matrix or internal lenses of the photo lens will spoil all your photographs.
• Secondly, it is desirable to have good illumination of the table surface on which the digital camera will be disassembled. You will be surprised how small screws hold the internal parts of the camera.
• The third condition is preliminary disassembly of the digital camera for troubleshooting, as a result of which a large number of small screws of various sizes and the parts of the lens with lenses and a photo matrix are stored in disassembled form until the purchase of the part instead of the faulty one.

The most important thing is to carefully remember the sequence in which you shoot the parts of the digital camera, because you will have to assemble them in the reverse order.
For ease of use, we recommend pre-magnetizing the screwdrivers.
The cost of disassembling and assembling such a camera in a service center is 1500 rubles. If you are a DIY and enjoy exploring the device of a digital camera, then the time and patience you spend will more than pay off with the awareness of the money saved and the experience gained. If you still doubt the availability of patience and proper skill, it is better to contact specialized service centers.To have a camera repaired in a service center means getting a high-quality repair, accompanied by warranty obligations. Indeed, in case of failure, the time and effort spent cannot be compensated for by colorful photographs taken with a refurbished digital camera.

The camera with the lens attached to it was dropped, and since the lens is entirely plastic, including the bayonet, it was out of order. This was supplemented by attempts at repairs by the first owner.

I begin to disassemble: two seats for screws on the bayonet are broken off - in the photo they are circled in red.

Also, the cable connecting the contact group of the lens to the board is cut off.

By unscrewing the three screws, I remove the upper ring.

Then I remove the zoom ring, then the board turn and the lens is ready for repair.

Now you can clearly see that one of the three brackets on the lens body is broken off, but the breakage point is rough and the gluing will be reliable.

Well, I'm starting to repair, first I made two conical washers for repairing the bayonet - from the outside under the cone, on the back side there is a recess for the screw head.

On the bayonet I countersink the seats under the cone.

The other half of the cable, sealed from the lens contact group.

Since the ribbon cable connects the fixed parts of the lens, it can be replaced with a wire connection. The wire used from a laptop video cable, suitable diameter and heat-resistant insulation.

After soldering a piece of the cable from the board, I cut off the excess, leave the piece with the resistors - circled in red in the photo. The same procedure with the other half.

I used twin wires to duplicate wide tracks.

Next, fixing the wires on tape, wiping the lenses and assembling in the reverse order.

First, the text, then the photo should be aaaaa

Can you suggest something about my problem?
I have an Olympus E-PM1, a kit lens, the same as yours, but with a manual “turn on” of the lens - you have to turn the knobs to start taking pictures.

The problem is this - the diaphragm is stuck in the “closed” position and does not want to move.

Is there any way to solve this problem without disassembling the lens? Maybe you can help with some sensible links?

And superquest: collect it back without dust inside 🙂

Goliathus control mat, the most comfortable (IMHO)

sorry, ska, the average size of a place of 700 wooden costs 1500

In order to give a complete (exhaustive) answer, below is a diagram with a photograph of the flash lamp. As you can see in the photo, the lamp electrodes have different configurations. If you connect the lamp according to the diagram, provided that you install a working lamp, there are no other malfunctions in the camera - you are guaranteed a "FLASH" flash at the end of the repair.

When repairing a flash unit, follow the rules for repairing digital equipment and safety precautions.

Otherwise, you risk losing the device irretrievably.

Olympus FE240 lens malfunction

Malfunction manifestation: after turning off the power of the camera, the lens is not set to its original position (in other words, it is not retracted), the pictures are not focused, while the camera does not give any errors and does not turn off.

During the diagnostics, no mechanical damage to the lens parts was found. When a voltage of 2-3 volts is applied from an external regulated power source to the outputs of the EDG ZOOM drive, the lens clearly works from the minimum to the maximum position. If you set the mechanism to its initial position in this way, and (after assembly, of course) turn on the power, the camera works absolutely normally. Both focusing and zooming work, the pictures are clear.

After turning off the power of the camera, the picture repeats - the lens is not set to its original position, the image is out of focus.

During further diagnostic work, the power supply and signal levels from the optical sensor of the initial position of the lens were checked using an oscilloscope. No deviations were found.

The failure of the lens was discovered only after its complete disassembly.

The reason is ridiculously simple.

On the inner tube of the lens, at the level of the "window" of the optical sensor, an adhering cosmetic gloss was found. When the camera is turned off, the lens returns to its original position, and when the shine reached the surface of the optocoupler, a false alarm occurred. The processor of the camera, receiving a signal from the optical sensor, understood this as “the lens mechanism reached its initial position” and, with a sense of accomplishment, turned off the power of the camera.

Repair of the Rekam Presto SL70 camera with the declared malfunction “batteries discharge quickly”.

During the diagnostics of the camera, it was found that there is an increased temperature (heating) in the area of ​​the battery compartment cover.

The decorative part of the body has a metal coating.

The cause of the malfunction is in the spring of the battery compartment cover that has come off, which, when the cover is closed, provided reliable contact with the ground (minus the power supply) of the camera's electronic circuit. In fact (see diagram in Fig. 2) one of the batteries is short-circuited when the lid is closed.

Conclusion: camera repair is reduced to the correct installation of the spring of the camera battery compartment cover.

Once again, the fotik fell on the tile and after that the screen, when turned on, slightly shone through the picture, and it faded:

I decided to pay tribute to Olympus and either send it on its last journey, or repair it, assuming that "something just went away ...".

We disassemble everything slowly, there are a lot of screws, but the process of disassembling the case is quite simple:

Sealing rubber for water resistance of the case:

More accurately with the connectors, for example, here the small one is fixed with a sliding clamp, and the large one - here the clamp rises up, I managed to break it, but not fundamentally, I put the bummer back later, the main thing is not to lose:

In principle, it was not necessary to turn off the screen.

The DVD drive tray does not come out, we decided to figure out why this is happening? Old "CD" and nothing ...

It's a vacation season again and we are going for a few days to the village, where in August without ...

Today we will remove and disassemble the Volkswagen Passat B3 instrument panel. Does not work on this car ...

We try to move the train and in some position the image shows in full:

Naturally, it makes no sense to order a screen for this fotik, so we call the "ball" and just bend the loop differently.

We do something like this:

We put on the cover with the screen, check it works!

Putting it up in the reverse order, giving it to the children to be torn apart.

When you ask Google how to fix your long-suffering camera yourself, smart Google somehow does not really advise doing this.

Most often, there are tips not to repair cameras yourself, but to give them to people with special knowledge and skills. Otherwise, you can be so refurbished that then no reanimation measures will help.

However, we are after all interested to see what is inside - all of a sudden some wiring is sealed off or a lot of dust has collected. Then, after wiping off the dust, we can be very proud that we have repaired the camera ourselves!

However, in all fairness, it should be noted that repairing a camera is not an easy task and takes a lot of time and mental strength.

Google is right in many ways. Modern cameras are such that it's a big problem not only to fix it, but also to correctly disassemble it. What and in what order to unscrew, not everyone can understand. And especially nervous people can pick up a hammer.

However, if a person from childhood likes to engage in radio engineering and went to the "Skillful pens" circle, then the likelihood that the camera will be able to take a couple of pictures increases. But here, in addition to talent, you also need to be able to take risks and have one more camera in stock, just in case.Well, actually, all of us are driven, as I have already noted above, a desire familiar from childhood - “And what's inside. "

Another important detail should be noted. The cost of repairing a digital camera is often the same as the cost of the camera itself. And a person is faced with a choice whether to repair a broken apparatus or buy a new one. And at the same time dig deeper into the insides of the first.

What if it turns out to be repaired! This is what moral satisfaction you can get!

So, the choice is yours - take the camera for repair or buy a new one. Or repair complex digital equipment yourself and get previously unexplored moral satisfaction and pride in yourself.

On our site we are starting a series of publications from the cycle "repair of photographic equipment" - advice from professional craftsmen. Digital cameras, SLR cameras, accessories and accessories to them belong to the class of complex digital technology. Accordingly, the cost of photographic equipment and accessories can be classified as expensive goods. Based on the foregoing, the repair of photographic equipment should be carried out by highly qualified masters.

Before starting the publication, we think it will not be superfluous to remind you of the security measures:

When starting to repair photographic equipment, REMEMBER that the voltage on the storage capacitor of the photo flash is about 300 volts, if you handle it carelessly, you can not only get an electric shock, but also easily destroy the camera irrevocably. Discharge the capacitor every time you connect the power. The capacitor can be discharged through a 1-2kΩ resistor.

Repair of the flash in the CANON ixus 40 camera. The malfunction is caused by the breakdown of the collector-emitter junction of the key made on the IGBT transistor. The transistor looks like an 8-pin surface mount chip with an inscription on the 25AAJ package (full name CY25AAJ-8F). A similar malfunction has been encountered in other digital cameras as well. Instead of transistors 25AAJ I put from the flash circuit of a film camera, 20AAJ, there were no returns.

Documentation for IGBT transistors CY25AAJ-8F in pdf format can be found on our website in the section of the camera circuits.

In this article, we will briefly touch on the most important points and definitions of IGBT transistors.

IGBT - Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistors - this new technology made it possible to combine the advantages of bipolar and field-effect transistors in 1 element: high input impedance with high current load and low on-resistance. IGBT transistor combines two transistors in one semiconductor structure: bipolar - forming the power channel and field - forming the control channel. The device is introduced into the power circuit by the terminals of the bipolar transistor E (emitter) and C (collector), and into the control circuit - by the terminal G (gate).

Thus, the IGBT has three external terminals: emitter, collector, gate (see in the figure below - the pinout of the IGBT transistor CY25AAJ-8F).

NIKON E5000 The malfunction looks like this, when you turn on the device, the lens extends, and then there is no reaction, you can turn off the device only by removing the battery and installing it again. Defect in connector CN103. Malfunction of this connector is common, and the manifestation of malfunction can be varied.

Repairing the CASIO exilim EX-S2 camera Does not turn on. The resistance of the conductors of the graphite loop from the “Power” button is about 4mOhm. If the cable cannot be ordered, then the design of the device allows you to install an extra flat button, the wiring was carried out by MGTF.

Repair of the Olympus mjv 410 camera, the flash does not work. Solder the connector from the flash board to the main board.

Repair of cameras Olympus FE 170, FE 210, FE 230, etc. from this series, often after a fall, the lens is jammed. In most cases, the pins, or gears, break. In good hands, you can repair the lens without replacing it altogether.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the lens, carefully check the operation of the shutter mechanism and diaphragm.

Often, with mechanical damage, the shutter flaps fall out; with such a malfunction, horizontal stripes will be visible in the captured frame, which are especially noticeable in the enlarged image.

Repair of the Panasonic DMC-LS2 camera.

The malfunction looks as follows: when the device is turned on, not a single control button works, when the camera is switched to scn1 mode, the menu spontaneously switches up, as if the ^ button is constantly held (while the voltage on the button is normal).

When you press and hold any button, the switching stops, the fault was in the mode switch due to moisture ingress. It must be disassembled and washed.

Repair Canon Power Shot PRO1: the device does not turn on with the installed memory card, compact flash (the device turns on without the memory card).

When examining the contacts of the socket, it was found that some of the pins of the connector are bent and short-circuit with the neighboring ones.

This defect is caused by improper installation of the memory card, or rather, by installing it backwards using some force exceeding the necessary one.

The mono connector can be changed to a new one, or it can be repaired. For repair, it is necessary to remove the bent contacts (if you try to align them, they usually break, and even if they remain intact, then in the place of the bend, under the microscope, the destruction of the metal structure is clearly visible. Such a connector pin will not be reliable, and there is no guarantee that it won't break soon) you can take the contacts from a non-working CD-flash connector, or, for example, come from PCMCIA connectors of laptops. The main thing here is that the pin fits snugly in the plastic part of the connector.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the device is quite expensive, rather difficult to disassemble and assemble, and if you have no experience in repairing such equipment, then the device should be entrusted to professionals. It will come out much cheaper. As a rule, after unskilled intervention, the number of defects increases.

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On the website of our workshop, there are many informational articles on the repair of photographic equipment, video cameras and other household equipment, many of which are accompanied by photographs with a detailed description of the manifestation of malfunctions and defects. The high qualifications and experience of our craftsmen allows us to accurately identify the defect, which in turn eliminates unplanned financial costs, allows us to make repairs with high quality and on time.

Malfunction of CCD matrices in a camera is not uncommon:

Replacing the display of the camera. Outward signs of broken displays. Also on this page you can find out about the action of the Remtelevid-service workshop - Replacing the camera display at cost.

The days when manufacturers could not come up with anything new than increasing the number of pixels in a ccd matrix are finally over. Manufacturers are racing to offer additional features in photographic equipment. There appeared digital cameras with a built-in GPS module, cameras for underwater photography without the use of special boxes, models with stereoscopic displays. Modern digital cameras have amazing capabilities. They allow not only to simplify the shooting process, but also to obtain high quality images comparable to photographs taken by SLR cameras. At the same time, their dimensions allow us to call them compact or pocket cameras. Against the background of such rapid development, masters of photographic equipment repair need to constantly improve their skills, keep their finger on the “pulse”. We hope that our Internet resource will be useful for both our clients and craftsmen.