Do-it-yourself nikon camera repair

When you ask Google how to fix your long-suffering camera on your own, smart Google somehow does not really advise you to do this.

Most often, there are tips not to repair cameras yourself, but to give them to people with special knowledge and skills. Otherwise, you can repair it in such a way that later no resuscitation measures will help.

However, it’s interesting for us to see what’s inside - all of a sudden, just some kind of posting has soldered off or a lot of dust has gathered. Then, after wiping the dust, we can be very proud that we repaired the camera ourselves!

However, in fairness it should be noted that repairing a camera is not an easy task and takes a lot of time and mental strength.

Google is right about a lot of things. Modern cameras are such that not only to repair, but also to disassemble it correctly is a big problem. What and in what order to unscrew, not everyone will be able to understand. And especially nervous people can pick up a hammer.

However, if a person from childhood loves to engage in radio engineering and went to the “Skillful Hands” circle, then the likelihood that the camera will still be able to take a couple of pictures increases. But here, in addition to talent, you also need to be able to take risks and have one more camera in reserve, just in case. Well, actually, we are all driven, as I noted above, by a desire familiar from childhood - “What is inside. “

Another important detail should be noted. The cost of repairing a digital camera is often equal to the cost of the camera itself. And a person is faced with a choice, to repair a broken device or buy a new one. And at the same time dig into the insides of the first.

And suddenly it will be possible to repair! What a moral satisfaction you can get!

So, the choice is yours - take the camera to repair or buy a new one. Or repair complex digital equipment yourself and get previously unknown moral satisfaction and pride in yourself.

Who took apart the first reflex camera in life, it might seem that half a bucket of various screws and screws had been unscrewed. We will not describe each screw in detail. We will omit some points of disassembly, because, believe me, somewhere on the seventieth screw, you will get bored, you will lose interest in the article and we will not reach the most important thing - the internal filling of the camera.

When starting to repair electronic equipment, first of all, you need to turn off the power. In case of repair of a SLR camera, we remove the battery from the camera compartment.

The type of battery in the Nikon D5100 is EN-EL14 Li-ion 7.4 V 1030 mAh, this type of battery is also used in the D3100 SLR camera and the Nikon COOLPIX P700 digital camera.

In order to dismantle the back of the case, unscrew the screws on the bottom of the camera body, on the right and left sides, in other words, everything around the perimeter of the case.

Don't forget about one hidden screw under the rubber pad (thumb grip), as shown in the photo above.

Carefully dismantle the back of the case. Remember that the back cover is still held by two loops.

At the beginning, we lift the connector latch and take out the cable going to the control buttons, then carefully disconnect the display cable from the system board, as shown in the photo above.

In the next part, we will look at the composition of the motherboard of the Nikon D5100 SLR camera ...

The process of obtaining high-quality photography initially required considerable skill and experience.With the invention of digital cameras, a new era in photography has begun. Anyone can capture a moment in digital format and, if desired, transfer their work to paper or a photo frame.

• First, the room must be practically sterile. Otherwise, a mote that gets on the matrix or internal lenses of the photo lens will spoil all your photographs.
• Secondly, it is desirable to have good lighting on the surface of the table on which the digital camera will be disassembled. You'd be surprised how small screws hold the inside of the camera.
• The third condition is the preliminary disassembly of a digital camera for troubleshooting, which results in the storage of a large number of small screws of various sizes and the parts of the photo lens with lenses and a photo matrix in disassembled form until the purchase of the part to replace the defective one.

The most important thing is to carefully remember the sequence in which you shoot the parts of a digital camera, because you will have to assemble it in exactly the reverse order.
To facilitate the work, we recommend that you pre-magnetize the screwdrivers.
The cost of disassembly and assembly in the service center of such a camera is 1500 rubles. If you are a do-it-yourselfer and are happy to study the device of a digital camera, then the time spent and patience will more than pay off with the realization of the amount of money saved and the experience gained. If you still doubt the availability of patience and due skill, it is better to contact specialized service centers. Repairing a camera in a service center means getting a quality repair, accompanied by warranty obligations. Indeed, in case of failure, the time and effort spent cannot be compensated for by colorful photographs taken with a repaired digital camera.

Lens failure – this has to be the most common digital camera failure. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include“E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error”(zoom error) (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problems”) (Kodak) , “lens>error, restart camera” (“lens error, restart camera”) or simply “lens error” (“lens error”) (almost all camera manufacturers use this option lately). Some cameras may not show anything at all on the display, but only emit a beep, the lens drives in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.

The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, dirt, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.

The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty.According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.

Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.

The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.

Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.

Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.

Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding down the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.

Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canon) means that you do not have a card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.

Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens.If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping this cable installed as a skid when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra power to aid in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.

Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.

Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.

Now we are entering the realm of potentially dangerous ways to save the camera. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:

Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow doesn't help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help clean them up. Pay special attention not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.

Method 6 : Hit the rubber cover of the USB socket repeatedly with the intent to dislodge any particles that may interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or LCD screen cracks.

Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this unless there is obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens pointing down, try tapping the lens “softly” from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.

Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position again. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.

Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method.You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop further effort at that point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other methods.

Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.

I always wanted to see what the camera has under the body, and now, such an opportunity presented itself. My old Nikon D-80 fell into the water with the photographer, and the camera got a little damaged. “After returning from there,” I mean, from the service center, she was asked to retire. And although the camera can still be reanimated, which I talked about in the review about extreme cameras, I decided to take it apart in order to learn how to repair it.

ERR error flashing in the information display is probably a shutter error on the Nikon D80. Usually, in such cases, when the shutter release button is pressed, only the mirror fires, and the shutter curtain does not rise. Sometimes such a problem can be fixed without changing the details. You just need to disassemble, getting to the shutter and manually put the curtains in place, or repair the program gear. But let's not get into the jungle, just a little looking inside the camera.

- Screwdriver PH00 (from a set of watch screwdrivers) - it is better to buy a good one;
- Tweezers;
- Pin;
- Organizer box for details;
- Rag-litter (flannel);

After studying the manual from Nikon D80 repair manualI got down to business. We begin to disassemble the camera, after removing the lens, removing the battery and flash drive.

Remove the lower part of the case by unscrewing 8 screws. Next, you need to unscrew the side screws - 2 on the left and 2 on the right, to remove the back of the case.
I did not remove the left side of the case, since there is a capacitor under it. Attention, high voltage - be careful, the capacitor can hit hard, as well as ruin the camera with a discharge. It is recommended to discharge it by shorting it to a 2 kΩ / 5 w resistor.

Inside, at the top, there is a cable to the board, which must be disconnected by bending the clip.
Pay attention - there are loops, and there are, I call them, connectors or harness (in the repair manual). The loop is a ribbon flat plastic orange cable, inside of which there are thin veins. It simply lies on the contacts, held by a narrow bar with a clamp. All clamps are bent towards the center of the board. A harness is a belt of white wires - it is removed like a plug from a socket.

Remove the rear metal bar by unscrewing 7 screws.

To remove the first large board, you need to disconnect 3 cables and 2 connectors. This work requires accuracy and precision. You need to understand how to disconnect and connect them.

Now the board is held on two wires.I don't own a soldering iron, so - let it hang - it doesn't interfere.

Now let's remove the front of the case.

You can raise the flash by using the plate to act on the spring.

Unscrew the 2 screws located under the flash. Strange, but I didn't have them. Looks like they stole it from the service center. Now unscrew the 2 screws on the case in front below the flash.

On the side, under the AF-M switch, there is a screw. Pry off the switch tab with a pin, unscrew the screw, remove the switch.

Remove the front housing. If it is held by the cover that closes the bayonet, remove it, then put it back.
Remove the battery compartment by unscrewing 1 screw inside. Unscrew 1 screw from the front under the left side panel and remove it.

We return back. Unscrew the 3 screws holding the metal plate on the right and remove it.

Unscrew 1 screw and remove the small board on the right.

Remove the eyecup and unscrew the 2 screws next to it, as well as 1 screw on the bottom right and left. Now the upper part of the body rests on the 1st screw under the diopter adjustment wheel. Use a pin to remove the blotch and unscrew the screw, removing the wheel. When removing the top of the case, disconnect the board cable on the right.

Be extremely careful. All details are very delicate. With inept handling, you can pierce the train.

I haven’t taken it apart yet, but it’s not far from the shutter - a dozen screws and two boards. Or even less. The main thing is that I satisfied my curiosity. Maybe later, I'll take a look at it further. Collect back...

The post is intended for all owners of the Nikon D40 with an 18-135mm lens. The article will warn and warn of a possible malfunction. If the lens hits a hard surface, cracking may occur. If you look at the gap, you can see that the aperture blades have crumbled.

Repairing such a malfunction in a service center will cost a little less than the cost of a new lens. Those who are faced with the choice of taking it in for repair or buying a new one can try to repair the optics themselves.

It is better to get to the optics from the back side.

Disassembly begins with unscrewing 3 screws on the bayonet and two on the contact group

Next, the mounting ring is removed along with the diaphragm lever

These are calibration pads. Most likely, they regulate the back and front focus.

The lens group that is located at the back is fastened with three screws that are located in the depth. Three screws above connect the lenses into a group.

Focus mode switch and focus ring itself.

6 screws are unscrewed on the inner glass.

To remove a further group of lenses, you need a special tool. The group is deep in the lens.

There are many complaints about the auto focus motor. It is believed that it often fails. In fact, it looks very reliable, which cannot be said about the diaphragm unit.

Next, you can remove the boards and the motor. This will not give anything special, but they will not interfere with further disassembly.

To remove the front lens, the key can be made independently.

A focusing group is visible near the front lens group. To dismantle this group of lenses, you need to loosen, or it is better to completely unscrew the two screws on the guide at the back of the lens. After that, you need to rotate the group counterclockwise and gradually push it forward.

After all these actions, you can get to the diaphragm. The cause of the crackle is a small spring that closes the diaphragm. Reinstalling the spring without special skills and tools is problematic. She gets under the petals. It is impossible to get there without disassembling the diaphragm unit.

If you assemble the lens without a spring, all its functions, except for the ability to close the aperture, will be preserved.

And some more photos of the front of the lens.

• (2 pages)
• 
• ←
• 1
• 2

• You cannot create a new topic
• You cannot reply to this thread

#21 sla

• 
• 
• 
• 

• Group: Users
• Posts: 1 372
• Registration: 15-February 12
• Gender: Male
• City: Honduras
• Interests: photoelectroniccomputerinteresting
• Camera: Naturally Nikon
• Optics: Any and new and old
• Films: Kodak, Agfa

Alex87 (July 09, 2015 – 11:33):

#22 Yurydan

• 
• 
• 
• 

Alex87 (July 09, 2015 – 11:33):
I put Sekunda on glue, especially transparent on 4 points where there was adhesive tape. Lasted a day. everything works great. All good pictures.

and the amalgam did not dissolve with glue?

#23 sla

• 
• 
• 
• 

• Group: Users
• Posts: 1 372
• Registration: 15-February 12
• Gender: Male
• City: Honduras
• Interests: photoelectroniccomputerinteresting
• Camera: Naturally Nikon
• Optics: Any and new and old
• Films: Kodak, Agfa

Yurydan (July 10, 2015 - 09:46):

#24 Alex87

• 
• 
• 

#25 Alex87

• 
• 
• 

#26 sla

• 
• 
• 
• 

• Group: Users
• Posts: 1 372
• Registration: 15-February 12
• Gender: Male
• City: Honduras
• Interests: photoelectroniccomputerinteresting
• Camera: Naturally Nikon
• Optics: Any and new and old
• Films: Kodak, Agfa

Alex87 (July 11, 2015 - 00:02):

Well, it's good that everything turned out well.

And then I glued the glasses to my wife with Secunda (also especially transparent), so they flew apart exactly in a week and seemed to be without load at the place of gluing ((
Clay Secunda tends to sometimes dry up into dust and moreover suddenly.

Message changed: sla (11 July 2015 - 20:52)

#27 Yurydan

• 
• 
• 
• 

#28 Yurydan

• 
• 
• 
• 

#29 sla

• 
• 
• 
• 

• Group: Users
• Posts: 1 372
• Registration: 15-February 12
• Gender: Male
• City: Honduras
• Interests: photoelectroniccomputerinteresting
• Camera: Naturally Nikon
• Optics: Any and new and old
• Films: Kodak, Agfa

Yurydan (July 11, 2015 - 20:51):

#30 Alex87

• 
• 
• 

#31 Irbis_SnowCat

• 
• 
• 
• 

#32 sla

• 
• 
• 
• 

• Group: Users
• Posts: 1 372
• Registration: 15-February 12
• Gender: Male
• City: Honduras
• Interests: photoelectroniccomputerinteresting
• Camera: Naturally Nikon
• Optics: Any and new and old
• Films: Kodak, Agfa

Alex87 (July 16, 2015 - 09:50):

Thanks for the information.

Keep us updated and if it's not difficult, unsubscribe after a while (at least a few months), such an experience is the most valuable thing that you can learn first-hand

#33 Nord87

• 

• 
• 
• 

I finally found my post, but I forgot my password and am writing under a different nickname. Carcass assembly - THAILAND. First the front mirror fell off, then the lower one. Decided to do it myself. I glued it with “Second” glue. I worked up to 500 frames and again everything fell off. Amalgam intact.
In October of this year he arrived in Voronezh. I gave the carcass to a service accredited for Nikon at 86, 20 Let Oktyabrya Street. They kept it for a month and, citing the lack of spare parts, returned it back. They did not glue.
RESULT: I did everything myself. In a car shop I bought a two-component glue “Perma oxi 5 min” USA for 400 rubles, in a hardware store I bought a large table magnifier for 1000 rubles, poured alcohol (for degreasing). He messed around for a long time, because. accuracy and patience are required. Everything is clearly visible under a magnifying glass, so I did not disassemble the carcass. Where the glue got out a little from under the mirror, it was removed with alcohol until it hardened. Then I cleaned the surface of the mirrors. I waited a day (instruction for glue). Mirrors are glued on.
I rejoice at the good work of the camera and WISH THE SAME to ALL FORUM members.

Services are extremely reluctant to take Nikon cameras for repair, citing the lack of spare parts.

#34 That which is not

• 

• 
• 
• 

Nord87 (23 November 2015 - 20:04):

What services? No name or status? Not surprising. Where do they get parts from?

From the article you will learn how things are with the repair of Nikon SLR cameras in Ukraine.

It is not difficult: the circuitry of Nikon cameras is thought out, the quality of the material and assembly is high.
No surprises: hidden screws, fragile parts, etc.

D80, which has problems with the program gear.
If you are the owner of this model, starting from the 80th thousand actuations of the shutter, check the gear. In order not to miss the moment when it just bursts.

The positive is that it is repaired cheaply and quickly, it works after repair happily ever after.
Repair takes a maximum of a day, replacement parts are not needed.

In reportage, rapid-fire models (D700, 710, 720, 750) there is a “non-return” of the mirror.
This is the price of speed.
The mirror lift mechanism wears out - it changes quickly and easily.
And it also works long and fruitfully afterwards.

The tongue of the jumping diaphragm is made of delicate material and is close to the bayonet.
Due to inaccurate use, it bends and the diaphragm “sticks”.
This is the only thing worth considering. Applies to all models.

In terms of speed and efficiency of repairing Nikon cameras, Kiev is the leader.
Nikons are also successfully repaired in Kharkov, Zaporozhye.

In other cities it is more difficult: cameras are often sent from Sumy, Cherkasy, Chernivtsi, Vinnitsa, Zhytomyr, Odessa.
Geography is growing.

A good quality camera.
Original parts are available in Ukraine, repair methods without replacement have been worked out and proved to be 100%.
We fix 80% of breakdowns in 2-5 days.

One way or another, all models get “in repair”.

For 10 years of repairing cameras, the master “opened” models, starting from D70-90, ending with D 200, 300.

Models of the type D1, D2, D3 fell only on duty to replace the shutter from working out or to clean the matrix. Dropping or hitting them is too expensive, but otherwise they do not break.

Standard breakdowns rest on the mechanical wear of the shutter or its elements.
This applies to everyone.
The rest of the Nikons are workhorses.

Do not drop, do not flood - and the camera will work out each frame in good conscience.

From the price of the part and the urgency with which you need a working camera.

This video review is about disassembling the Nikon D40 camera

Remove the cover and remove the battery. Loosen all the screws.

Detach the bottom panel. We remove the upper part, where the display is. Disconnect the cable, move the lock. We remove the front.

Now we have access to the flash capacitor, which must be discharged. This is a very important point!

We set one contact to negative, the second to positive of the capacitor.

I have a light bulb and I can visually see when the discharge has occurred. I have it discharged. We unfasten all visible locks. We begin to disconnect all the loops.

Unscrew the motherboard.

Now you need to solder the wires. One side has 5 wires.

On the other side there are 2 black contacts. These are negative.

Raise the board and unfasten the power cable.

Remove the bottom of the case. Metal which pulls together. Roughly speaking, the frame of the camera.

Also remove the top. We remove the eyecup.

I'll check the capacitor again. If it is charged, it will be irreparable.

If it is discharged. Plus, even on the case, then there will be such an electromagnetic surge that will disable most of the electronics on the board.

That the fee will become unbearable. Someone discharges with screwdrivers, by shorting. It is not right.

We unscrew the metal frame, which tightens the main parts of the case.

Now we unscrew the mirror module itself miror ace. It is held on by four screws. It is not necessary to remove the matrix!

Just unscrew, then remove. We also need to unsolder three wires. To do this, you need to move the capacitor up, which is glued to the double-sided tape.

And solder. It is not necessary to solder pink, we only solder red and black. Soldered the motor control driver from the control board.

If you do not unsolder the wires when you connect the power supply, the motor control chip may fail.

This voltage goes not only to the motor, but also to the microcircuit, which leads to breakdown.