In detail: do-it-yourself repair of foxweld master 202 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Colleagues, tell me, I have been suffering with this device for two years already, before it was Telvin 165, but it burned out. I bought FoxWeld, it cooks very poorly with a triple electrode for 110-120 A, the arc disappears at any moment or does not ignite at all, and at 130 it burns metal through. Those. it seems that there is no middle mode. I gave my friend a try, because he sinned on the wiring and crooked hands, he has everything the same, after my Fox with his old trance he welded everything perfectly, he says he was tormented with my apparatus.
Does it make sense to take him for repair? The device really does not cook adequately, compared to Telvin Technica 165.
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copich 08 Feb 2017
Serzhio, try to see at least the current regulator. Perhaps the resistor is oxidized or partially fell off. Perhaps this is the trouble.
If not, then for diagnostics and if the price tag stands up to the repair, then ask for a guarantee for three months. And there it will be seen how much it can be in the furnace.
copich, understood thanks! I also needed to understand that there really was a problem. I will carry it to repair.
- 1
copich 08 Feb 2017
copich, understood thanks! I also needed to understand that there really was a problem. I will carry it to repair.
if the regulation is smooth, then the current should also be smoothly regulated. If there is a step regulation, then the output should also change stepwise, but at the same time increase uniformly. On step adjustments, there is often no change in some steps due to burnt contacts.
if the regulation is smooth, then the current should also be smoothly regulated. If there is a step regulation, then the output should also change stepwise, but at the same time increase uniformly. On step adjustments, there is often no change in some steps due to burnt contacts.
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Video (click to play). |
The fact of the matter is that the adjustment there is smooth, but there is a feeling that from a certain position of the twist, the current strength increases to a maximum, although it shows 130A.
copich 08 Feb 2017
Forget about the display meters on cheap devices. They show how many stars are now above your head or the strength of an ant running past.
This cannot be trusted, it is as a guideline that this is so much closer. In the process of welding, this indicator shows what? Same? It means that he does not measure anything, he only shows.
Resistors (regulators) often suffer. well, turn on the switched off device several times from lock to lock, maybe a little better (for a short time). So the point is in the resistor or with a tester, look at the smoothness of the adjustment. Mandatory on the switched off device. And when you twist, then push a little more and, on the contrary, pull it towards you. And you can also check it, you can pull it off a little, if the matter is in the resistor, there should be 90% deterioration or improvement.
Forget about the display meters on cheap devices. They show how many stars are now above your head or the strength of an ant running past.
This cannot be trusted, it is as a guideline that this is so much closer. In the process of welding, this indicator shows what? Same? It means that he does not measure anything, he only shows.
Resistors (regulators) often suffer. well, turn on the switched off device several times from lock to lock, maybe a little better (for a short time). So the point is in the resistor or with a tester, look at the smoothness of the adjustment. Mandatory on the switched off device. And when you twist, then push a little more and, on the contrary, pull it towards you. And you can also check it, you can pull it off a little, if the matter is in the resistor, there should be 90% deterioration or improvement.
And what about the resistance being checked by the tester on the switched off device?
copich 08 Feb 2017
Yes. If the tester does not automatically determine the resistance, then immediately select either kOhm or mOhm. Depending on what is written on the body.
Post has been edited by copich: 08 February 2017 13:32
Forget about the display meters .. pull it back and vice versa. And you can also check it, you can pull it off a little, if the matter is in the resistor, there should be 90% deterioration or improvement.
Igor, i.e. do I need to disconnect the wires from the "twist" and check the change in resistance when it rotates correctly? Or can I not disconnect the wires?
copich 08 Feb 2017
No, you don't need to disconnect anything. Although if on the connector, then of course the purity of the experiment will be higher, i.e. the circuit of the apparatus will not affect the measurements of the resistor. It is enough just with one probe of the tester to the center, with the second probe to the extreme contact and twist. Then to the second extreme contact and twist. If in both positions it changes evenly, then the point is not in the resistor. If there is a ripple, then the matter is in the resistor. Or a drastic change. Although of course there is a chance that bounce is more manifested under voltage, but usually you can catch it with a tester.
If two contacts on the resistor are connected together, then the central and extreme ones are together - one probe, one remaining second probe and take a measurement only once, but do not twist quickly and look at the tester.
Here, of course, a pointer tester is better than a digital one. Chinese digital will be very slow to think. Therefore, only your experience or luck can be counted on.
Well, or just quickly change it to a new one from the store, a resistor. Doesn't help, then figs would be with him
Post has been edited by copich: 08 February 2017 18:27
No, you don't need to disconnect anything. Although if on the connector, then of course the purity of the experiment will be higher, i.e. the circuit of the apparatus will not affect the measurements of the resistor. It is enough just with one probe of the tester to the center, with the second probe to the extreme contact and twist. Then to the second extreme contact and twist. If in both positions it changes evenly, then the point is not in the resistor. If there is a ripple, then the matter is in the resistor. Or a drastic change. Although of course there is a chance that bounce is more manifested under voltage, but usually you can catch it with a tester.
If two contacts on the resistor are connected together, then the central and extreme ones are together - one probe, one remaining second probe and take a measurement only once, but do not twist quickly and look at the tester.
Here, of course, a pointer tester is better than a digital one. Chinese digital will be very slow to think. Therefore, only your experience or luck can be counted on.
The enthusiastic members of the forum who have a Foxveld master 202 welding machine ask for help.
” >
I own devices for several years, cooks with ordinary electrodes is not bad, even on a bad network, but he always had problems with SSSI. Electrode 3 current maximum 200A, wires are thrown over. Does not cook. Here's what happens:
When it is possible to ignite the arc, it cooks for a minute and stops cooking. The fan is running, the display is the same. We are trying to ignite the arc from 3-5 minutes. The arc lit up again cooks for a minute and again does not cook (like chopped off by itself). We try again to set fire to the electrode. Again we poke about 3 minutes. The arc has lit up. We cook, now we burn a quarter of the electrode longer and it stops cooking again. After welding, a crater is formed on the electrode. If a plaster burns out on a conventional electrode, and then metal, then with SSSI the mustache is the other way around.
Tell me why SONI doesn't cook? Is his filling for this brand of electrode not sharpened?
For example, the Chinese resant digests the SSSI like a regular electrode (naturally, we swap the wires).
Help pliz ..
It's not entirely clear about wire manipulation. Do you reverse polarity when welding? From which to which?
DDT wrote:
It's not entirely clear about wire manipulation. Do you reverse polarity when welding? From which to which?
So on the electrodes it is written with reverse polarity, if not confusing.
When welding with conventional electrodes + on the electrode, - on the ground.When welding SONI, everything is reversed.
Welding with UONI 13/55 electrodes is carried out with direct current of reverse polarity (+ to the electrode). Resanta cooks them well. it has a higher open-circuit voltage.
when welding with an inverter, i.e. on DC, reverse polarity is required.
for a 3mm electrode, the current is usually 80-120A, depending on the position (floor, wall, ceiling). more precisely, see. on a pack of electrodes.
in your case, with “-” on the electrode, there is not enough heat to melt the coating, as a result of which a visor is formed from the coating and the arc extinguishes.
straight polarity is used when welding with alternating current (transformers).
Thus, the problem is not in the electrode or apparatus, but in the knowledge of the welder.
sanya1965 wrote:
straight polarity is used when welding with alternating current (transformers).
This is something new about welding.
Arkady wrote:
Tell me why SONI doesn't cook? Is his filling for this brand of electrode not sharpened?
For example, the Chinese resant digests the SSSI like a regular electrode (naturally, we swap the wires).
If for one person, one apparatus cooks, the other does not, then it is obvious that one of the apparatus is not quite suitable for SSSI.
Apparently, this Fox is a typical ZX-7. Not very comfortable, but he should still cook, at least in the lower position.
If you add droselek to the outlet on a spray, then it will cook half a dozen.
ASN, What kind of droselek and where do you need to solder? Droselka brand, parameters?
The members of the forum got confused.
1 inverter -direct current outputs?
2 right polarity whats on the holder +?
3 hand held -?
4 on the electrodes write to cook with alternating or direct current.
5 if it is written on the electrode that it should be cooked with purely alternating current, is it already not suitable for the inverter?
Drosselyok homemade
conditionally permanent
a straight line is “+” on the part “-” on the holder
the inverse is “-” on the part “+” on the holder
if it can be variable, then constant too (inverter)
joha, Thank you. Can you see a photo of this droselka?
It remains to find out why not cook Uonka.
The ring is needed from pulverized iron, 57mm in diameter. It fits between the “+” output of the inverter and the positive terminal.
The ring is needed from pulverized iron, 57mm in diameter. It fits between the “+” output of the inverter and the positive terminal.
Already for connection outside the inverter are sold on /don220.ru/
can be done in different ways, can be sprayed, can be alsifer, can be transformer iron
Serg52 wrote:
Already for connection outside the inverter are sold on /don220.ru/
There is no difference, it is possible from the inside and from the outside. When the drawer is large enough, the inside is better.
ASN wrote:
When the drawer is large enough, the inside is better.
Well, yes, inside, of course, it will be more appropriate.
As I understand it, this apparatus is not intended for uonium welding.
Is this ring only needed for uonium welding, or is the entire welding apparatus being modernized in this way?
Serg52, 57mm outer diameter? Then do you need to wind a certain number of turns of a specific wire on this ring?
Thank you.
All upgrades, the arc will be more stable on all electrodes.
Simply, on the other electrodes, and without a ring, it is cooked more or less, but on uony, without a normal choke, it is completely sad.
At the same time, it should be borne in mind that a global “miracle” will not happen anyway. The problem is, with bridge inverters, the idle U is also not enough (usually 55V), which is unfavorable for the uonya. At the same Resanty Uxx 80c. hence the best stability on the uonya.
Arkady wrote:
As I understand it, this apparatus is not intended for uonium welding.
Maybe not, but maybe yes. You first try to cook on the correct polarity (+ to the electrode) and write off your impressions. And only then you will wind the chokes.
Arkady wrote:
As I understand it, this apparatus is not intended for uonium welding.
It is intended, it’s just harder to cook it, but after all, people somehow cook even with devices with WFD, and here the open circuit voltage, although not 80V, but 59V should be enough.Recheck everything again, try to boil in another place, suddenly something with tension, and only then start winding the chokes.
Thanks to the members of the forum. I will try as soon as possible. + on the electrode. Most likely after the holidays. I will definitely write it off.
AHX move already not to raise?
It will be easier to buy another.
Arkady wrote:
Thanks to the members of the forum. I will try as soon as possible. + on the electrode. Most likely after the holidays. I will definitely write it off.
AHX move already not to raise?
Thank you tubers. I will write it off as soon as I try.
Arkady,
Lay out the insides of the apparatus.
Wannie he should burn without a problem.
No, I'll post it. seal on it with.
Arkady wrote:
No, I'll post it. seal on it with.
So there is no guarantee anyway -
Arkady wrote:
I have owned a device for several years
Klez wrote:
Arkady,
Lay out the insides of the apparatus.
See in the topic
FoxWeld Master 162/202 (reviews) On the first page there is a photo of the insides of 202
Arkady, my experience is not gigantic, but I have not come across devices for which somewhere in the characteristics it would be written that they cook with de rutile, but the main ones (to which SSSI belong) are not. IMHO, if the apparatus is capable of producing the CURRENT recommended for these electrodes, then it MUST be cooked with them (if, of course, the apparatus and the network are in good order, the wires and grounding are in order, the electrodes are in proper condition), everything else is a matter of the welder's skills. True, some of the characteristics of the device may nevertheless be associated with some peculiarities, and more on that below.
Maybe your experience in welding specifically SONI is not very rich, and for this type of electrodes you just have some “excessive expectations”? If I was mistaken, then what I have laid out will be useful to someone else, I got here already some kind of small reviewer on SSSI
This is a typical and most widespread representative of electrodes with a basic coating, and they have their own subtleties.
Firstly, they ONLY hold a very short arc, because when it increases, it goes out much more readily than that of the same rutile ones. This is probably due among other things and with a different, than in rutile, dynamics of combustion and melting of the mixture - it melts noticeably more slowly than in rutile. Therefore, the metal usually melts faster than the coating, which therefore forms a “cover”, moving the tip of the electrode shaft further away from the base metal. “Treatment” - boil up to resting the plaster on the base metal at some tilt of the electrode, select the force of this support empirically, depending on the current (for each diameter of the electrode there is a “plug” for the recommended currents), the degree of heating of the base metal, welding position, angle tilt the electrode, etc., while avoiding sticking. Moreover, from batch to batch of electrodes, the results may differ.
Secondly, they have a very difficult repeated (and not only) ignition. This is expressed in the difficult first contact for sparking (obviously due to the greater oxidation of the tip of the rod and its contamination with slags) and in a noticeably greater adhesion. “Treatment” - before reigniting, beat off the edges of this “cover” from the coating, and also remove oxides from the tip of the rod. This can be done, for example, by tapping the tip of the electrode on an auxiliary "piece of iron" or a stone, but do not expose the rod too much - it will stick when ignited. With the advent of some little experience, it turns out to bend the coating faster by knocking the tip directly on the base metal until the first spark (if it is not critical for the surface of the part), after which it is already possible to ignite the arc itself. In a couple of American videos on YouTube, it was suggested as an option to clean the tip of the electrode with a file that you keep close at hand - this is a very specific solution for very “clean” work, but for everyday practice, the method is too troublesome and greatly reduces productivity.
For the subsequent ignition to help the same hot start of the apparatus (whatever the opponents of this idea say - in my practice this is still true
[In “defense” of these “troublesome” electrodes we can briefly mention the very good spreading of the metal, which gives beautiful and even seams, better visibility of the pool during welding, usually greater strength and ductility of the deposited metal, as well as a thinner and more easily detached slag crust.]
There is a thought that the burning of SSSI really indirectly the open circuit voltage of the device may be affected. With a random increase in the arc, the voltage on it increases, and inverter devices to maintain a given current automatically increase this voltage. But the maximum possible voltage here is nevertheless connected with the Uxx of the inverter (I do not say that it is EQUAL to it, since the Uxx inverter gives only at ZERO current), therefore, inverters with a higher Uxx must keep the arc at more this random increase in the arc (unless, of course, they do not include such functions as, for example, forced arc interruption for the convenience of “tear-off” welding). However, since it concerns deviations from the normal welding mode, this can only give additional "comfort" in work, while observing the NORMAL welding modes and this Uхх affect the actual possibility of welding shouldn't.
Greetings Dear. help me please
My friend bought a Foxweld Master 202 (apparently Chinese). And something burned inside. The circuit in the attached images is (according to him) healthy on the main board. He turned to an electrician for help, but he does not know that it burned out (more precisely, it seems like the resistance does not know what it should be from the factory, and therefore cannot be repaired). Can you determine?
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- 1,773 posts
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- Name: Sergey
- opening the device, blowing out dust, checking circuits, desoldering 12 diodes, soldering diodes, replacing the power cord, installing a power plug, assembling the device, checking on ballast, checking with a 3mm electrode
- cable gland 16mm
- opening the device, purging from heavy dirt, checking the components, removing the bottom board, replacing the relay, replacing the mains plug, assembling the device. welding check.
- inverter foxweld master 202, italy;
- Welding holder;
- Required connectors and cables;
- Clamp for grounding;
It is impossible to restore the denominations for these remains. We need a photograph of the same block from a living apparatus. Or you can draw a section of the circuit around these elements, try to determine their purpose and guess the nominal value. If your friend can draw a diagram, we can try to help with the denomination.
And one more thing - the resistors themselves do not collapse like that, which means that the main cause of the malfunction is somewhere else (probably on the main board or removed components) and you need to find it by moving along the paths from these burned out resistors. Otherwise, the new ones will make the same boom.
Although, you know - perhaps this board is a complete unit. Optocoupler, Zener diode, transistor. Perhaps this is a zero crossing detector. Can you take a new photo without the flash? The glare hid some of the paths. Bend the green capacitor to the other side, pick the rosin from under the transistor and bend the orange capacitor so that you can see the tracks under them.
Post has been edited by Edison: 23 April 2013 - 11:14
The manifestation of a malfunction according to the owners: overheating is on
What preceded the breakdown: -
The following problems have been identified at various times: repair of welding current rectifier circuits, replacement of the mains cable is required; malfunction of power supply circuits
Work performed: repair of welding current rectifier circuits, replacement of the mains cable; repair of power supply circuits
In this section, practical cases of repair from our service center
Be careful! The information provided should not be taken as a guide to action, since in the event of an attempt to repair complex electronic devices by unqualified personnel, various negative consequences may occur.
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Today, the market for welding inverters is overflowing with manufacturers from different countries and brands. In this article, "foxweld master 202" is considered.
This device belongs to the middle budget class. On average, the price ranges from 17,100-1800 rubles in an online store. Check out the short description below and watch the video overview.
Forced cooling fan
After familiarizing themselves with the experience of people who have used this unit, they recommend it as a good long-term inverter. But nevertheless, there are also disadvantages: a short cable that duns at low temperatures and bursts, an uncomfortable grip. The apparatus could withstand operation at -25 ° C. Workers prefer this apparatus to Resante because it works better and softer. Master 202 is one of the most popular inverters in Russia. In the first days of operation, users are satisfied with the operation of the device, characterizing it as a fairly high-quality Chinese, which is worth its money. Copes well with three and four mm electrodes. Some people complain about the short arc of the device, but this can be attributed to the inexperience of users. Usually, workers have been using the device for years and it regularly serves them in their summer cottages and in the development of small businesses. Foxweld 202 inverter belongs to the Italian Foxweld, but all parts and equipment are assembled in China, passing a three-stage inspection. In Russia, the equipment has all the necessary certificates.
The foxweld master 202 inverter has a mass of about 8 kg. The device is used for surfacing and welding with a stick electrode using direct current. Like similar models, the foxweld master is distinguished by high efficiency, economical energy consumption, and stable arc burning. Can be used both outdoors and indoors while maintaining safety rules.
The foxweld master 202 welding inverter has several operating modes, which will allow you to perform any type of work from minor repairs to professional needs.
The foxweld master 202 welding machine also has a set of accessories.
Compared to competitors, it makes an impression.
Foxweld master 202 electrode holder
