DIY Fiolent router repair

Here. Actually two modifications "in one bottle". Copy sleeves + offset pad with additional handle. I wanted to add a pair of compasses, but decided not to get rid of it. I will make a compass separately, on the same rods as for the parallel stop. I am also going to modify the emphasis. But more on that later.
In the meantime: here is a 6 mm thick plexiglass sole. It can be used simply as a sole with an additional handle, including as an offset. And you can also install copying sleeves.
The bushings themselves are made of bronze. Made a familiar turner, according to drawings such as the Enkorovsky. Actually, they differ only in the diameter of the neck.
The seat for the bushings in the sole is chosen with a play of about 1 mm. For precise fit, a centering pin is used - it is clamped into the chuck and “catches” the sleeve with a taper.

Pardon me: reveal the manufacturing technology of the plexiglass lining! according to the cleanliness of the edge, there is an opinion about sawing in machine conditions.

and the drawings?

All the work, except for turning the copy sleeves, was done by himself, at home.
I sawed out the sole with an electric jigsaw on a "butt" - a folding workbench. Then he grinded the ends on a tape machine (I forgot a tape with an abrasive either 120 or 240).
Drilled holes for screws with a drill in a drill stand, pulling a pair of clamps a new sole with a "native". Then he countersinked.
I made the central hole like this: I fixed a pointed cutter into the chuck and pressed the cutter a little. So the central hole was screwed. I made a 40 mm deep sample for copying sleeves with a “percock”. I drilled it with a crown with a centering drill (30 mm or so) - already through and through.
Well, fixing the handle is not a problem. I picked up the old handle from the door to the pantry, cut off the pin a little, drilled a hole, cut the M8 thread and screwed it in with glue.
And about the drawings: I took them either on this site, or on a friendly woodtools. In addition, there are a lot of implementation options - I advise you to rummage around in search engines.

Nikolay Borisyuk
You can install any router on the table, and this one is no exception.

Fiolentovtsy to you that in the bastard you answer the improvement right now in Simferopol and you add novelty there in Simferopol there and really can't write three words a. FIOLENTOVTSY. ==== WHO WORKS THERE .. == AT LEAST TWO YEARS YOU CAN ANSWER .. == OR IT'S ALL IN YOUR PADLA. = ANSWER. A. RESPOND .. SIMFEROPOL. WHERE ARE YOU??

Probably they don't see us - again the light in Crimea was turned off.

What is Fiolent 4. Che, how is he. You have not heard, you do not know. )

Fiolent has Festula roots (it was ripped off from Festula, but later “modified” by our engineers, which obviously did not benefit%))).
Makita and the Blue Bosch have a "one-handed" router with a "copy base" and a removable head.
But mostly these models are popular in North America, and it is rather difficult to find them here.

This I will ask. With such a milling cutter, it is convenient to perform some operations when one hand is needed and the other is busy! I only know TWO Large Routers with this arrangement: - these are all these Fiolents and. FESTULA. Which are each, like a whole pallet-pallet loaded with these Violets !! Gyyy :))))))). Well, maybe there are other brands, but I don't know them! :)))

Held in the hands of the market. Seems OK. But didn't work.

Tell me, is it possible to install a button with a speed regulator on this router? Or how else to make a regulator?

1. Disassemble (carefully).
2. Remove debris and burrs
3. Possibly lubricated with dry grease / powdered graphite.
4.Collect and enjoy your work.

I bought it, put it on, twists it. True, the quality of the button is not very clicky, crunches.

Either the foreman is not competent, or he is trying to "dilute" an additional amount of unnecessary work.
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See how the hold button works on the same drill.
The wheel is exactly for this and is * intended * to adjust the speed in the * fixed position *, otherwise it would be possible to do just the trigger without the wheel and the lock button (as was done in old drills).
– –
Need * original * Fiolent button. It works “as expected”, but you may need to adjust the footprint as the “no adjustment” button may be different.
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I went to the workshop, turned on my Fiolent: * the wheel adjusts the revolutions when the button is fixed *, though not from “zero”, but approximately from the middle and above.

I was completely confused. On the market I found a button with a regulator and a lock. But the seller, who is also a repairman, said that if I use the button lock, then the rpm will be at maximum speed, no matter how much I set the wheel, that the wheel will not work when using the button lock. Proposed a separate block of the speed regulator. I have a boshsh jigsaw, where I set the revolutions with the wheel, then the same revolutions were fixed with the fixing button.

Replacing the native button with a * adjustable button * will solve the problem.
– –
The manufacturer Fiolent took the easiest route,
and unlike other milling cutter manufacturers that install * a separate speed control unit *, they installed a button usually used on drills.
The button includes the actual * start button * with a built-in triac power regulator and * a wheel for presetting * the adjustment level, as well as * a fixing button * of the start button.
Of course, this is not the best option, but the cheapest one.
For example * the lock button *, in contrast to the * safety button * used on most modern carpentry tools,
* does not prevent accidental pressing of the start button *, but only fixes it * in the pressed position *,
and this is fraught with injury if you accidentally press (carry) the tool by the main handle.

Can't remove the spring case without damaging it. Probably if this is done then he will not hold on. How to remove it, what if necessary, install it back?

Feed - opened, but PM - no 🙁
To do this, click on the gear on the main page (near the subscriber counter) and go to the “channel settings” tab to turn on the 4 and 5 switches.

Changed in channel settings as you explained.

To choose the right milling cutter, you need to decide on the tasks that he has to perform. If you need to make paneled doors for furniture, you need either a machine immediately or a manual tool with a power of 1500-1800 W with speed control installed in the table.

Of course, you can do other work with such a powerful milling cutter, but does it make sense? For processing furniture edges, the power will be clearly excessive (add more power of the vacuum cleaner working in conjunction with the router!), And the significant weight of the tool will quickly lead to fatigue. Well, for chamfering, in general, the most low-power milling cutter is enough.

Hence the conclusion suggests itself: you need to purchase another milling cutter (or even several). I have got accustomed to three Fiolent cutters, and for the following reasons. Low price and, on the contrary, high reliability, light weight and ease of use. Milling, holding the tool with one hand, is convenient when you need to profile an edge or chamfer a whole batch of parts: you guide the tool with one hand, and throw off the finished parts with the other. This is how productivity is ensured. I especially like the speed control at the push of a button, like a drill.

When guiding the tool, you can increase / decrease the speed, and a smooth start is ensured (1).

I bought a new "Fiolent" every 5 years, but not because of wear and tear: all milling cutters are in service (2, 3, 4). The goal was this - each milling cutter should perform one operation, but "excellently".

The first "Fiolent" - with a power of 500 W - was purchased in 1997 and was initially used in various jobs. The tool turned out to be very "tenacious", I still actively use it. The only "repair" is the replacement of a fully functional button with the same one, but with speed control. Now it performs only one task - it removes a chamfer, for which a guide with a recess for the milling cutter bearing is fixed on it from below. (5, 6). You don't need to set up anything - just go and work! The beech guide provides dust extraction and makes it easier to guide the tool along the workpiece. When milling a chamfer, the volume of material to be cut is very small, there is enough power in abundance.

5 years have passed, and in 2002 I purchased another "Fiolent", but with a power of 1100 watts. At first I also used it in a variety of ways, but now I am milling an edge. And not only for canopies with countertops, but also for furniture fronts. And the cutter is the same, only the bearing changes (7). If the doors are in operation, then we put a bearing with a diameter of 12.7 mm, or Ѕ ’ (8), if the visors are 9.5 mm in diameter, or 3/8 '' (9). Since the cutter itself has a radius of 6.35 mm (ј ’’), and its outer diameter is 25.4 mm (1 ’’), in the first case a shoulder is not formed, but in the second it is. (All sizes of cutters are tied to inches - this is the specificity.) Set the guide along the bearing (10, 11). It significantly improves the removal of cut products (nothing flies to the side) and makes it easier to move in a straight line. On curved sections, it has to be pushed back or removed, basing occurs along the bearing - and immediately the amount of dust and sawdust around increases sharply (see the master class on making a hallway, published in the same issue).

Another 5 years passed, and in 2007 the Fiolent milling cutter with a power of 1100 W was purchased. His tasks are certainly the most diverse. This instrument has the inscription "Professional", this is true and verified by practice. (By the way, among artisans there is an opinion that this inscription can scare away those who are not familiar with the products of this or that manufacturer. It's all the fault of the fly-by-night "brands" that compromise such an inscription.)

As you can see, my use of Fiolent milling cutters has a long (by modern Russian standards) history. Naturally, it was not without refinement. Its goal is to make a convenient and "environmentally friendly" tool, ideally suited to the performance of its task. But everything is in order.

First, the "extra" revolving stop was sawn off. Then a cover was made to prevent chips and dust from escaping through the top. On the first two milling cutters, I cut it out of fiberglass, but then I decided to just cut it out of the canister with scissors - it's easier this way.

The situation is similar with the base plate. Previously, I also made it from fiberglass, instead of the standard plastic one, but now the quality of the plate from the kit has become much better and suits me perfectly, it remains only to round the edges a little with sandpaper (12).

You ask: "What is this plywood box, sewer pipes and hoses?" This is because brushes produce carbon dust when the brushes are worn out. If you work on the street, it doesn't matter at all, but when a lot of all kinds of power tools are gathered in one small room, there is something to think about. It is in this box that warm dusty air enters, which cools the engine. Then he goes to the vacuum cleaner, and there, depending on the time of year, to the street or for additional cleaning.

The box is glued together from plywood scraps and thin strips. From a cut of a sewer pipe with a diameter of 40 mm, I made an air duct.To do this, I had to cut out a rectangular cutout with a jigsaw with a short file so that the duct was put on the box.

At the back, the air duct is closed with a stopper, and a tee is put on it in front - the air duct "flows" at an angle into the main air line, through which cutting products fly into the vacuum cleaner. Now you need to coordinate the air consumption, otherwise the dust suction from the cutter will deteriorate, the vacuum cleaner will drive air through the cutter motor. For this, the cross-section of the cooling duct is reduced using a streamlined piece of wood. The air duct is fixed to the box with electrical clamps. After that, all connections are sealed with silicone. A tee is put on the air duct.

The "park" of modernized milling cutters can be seen in the photo at the end of the article. Each one performs only his task, By the way, all these milling cutters are involved in a master class on making a hallway.

Practice has shown that the time spent on improving the tools was not wasted. All of the materials used were either very cheap or taken from scrap materials altogether.

It's nice to know that your instrument is not simple, but the most environmentally friendly. And besides, as I already said, you don't need to set up the router and change the equipment every time: take it from the shelf and work. So you can save the most important resource for a craftsman - time.

NOTE. Having looked at the catalog of cutters of some large specialized company, we can conclude that the variety of cutting tools is quite large. But in practice, for the formation of the edge, it is really possible to do with three cutters - profile, "chamfer" and cylindrical. The purpose of the first is to process the edges of furniture fronts, as well as countertops or canopies (after changing the bearing and changing the position of the guide). With the "chamfer", everything is clear from its name, and the cylindrical one is useful for various tasks, for example, for the manufacture of accessories and the installation of door hinges.

I added a little to my arsenal of tools for woodworking. I think every beekeeper has one, because you have to work with a tree - either make frames, or some kind of plank. I'm going to make bee removers the other day, figured out what would be needed for this and decided to do two things.

First, I bought a router. Supported by the domestic manufacturer - Fiolent. Power - 1.1 kW, 30,000 rpm. I gave 650 hryvnia for it. I wanted to immediately take a table for a milling cutter - it is convenient to work, the processing accuracy is higher. The table was not available, they can bring it on order. I looked at the price - 900 hryvnia - more expensive than the milling cutter itself. No, - I think, - I'd rather make such a table myself, the main thing in it is an even plate.

I went to the guys who sell rolled metal products, took from them for 230 hryvnia a piece of metal plate 90x50 cm in size, 8 mm thick. I drew with chalk where there should be a hole with a diameter of about 40 mm, and the guys with an oxygen cutter immediately cut it out on the spot.

In the village, I sanded the edges of the slab and the holes with a grinder (sagging after the cutter), removed a small chamfer. I screwed on a frame made of bars from below and attached legs - it turned out to be a completely tolerable table.

To the plate, from below, I attached the router itself with three screws - it has special threaded holes for fastening.

I planted a massive bar - I will push the workpieces into it during processing. In the center of the bar, I made a recess for the cutter.

The beam itself will be fixed to the table with clamps. Put the cutter - you can work.

The milling cutter, by the way, is not included in the kit, you have to buy it separately. The depth of the cut will be adjusted by lowering and raising the cutter, and the width - by shifting the stop bar. Now I can choose a quarter in one go, make a groove, easily make side strips of frames with permanent Hoffmann dividers, and not suffer with knives, as before. In addition, one operation can now be performed on the circular, and another on the milling cutter, which also saves time and effort.

And the second thing I did was a sliding table on my father's circular.I described this in detail here, and here there are still working photos. I found a plastic plate in the barn for the entire length of the circular, screwed it to the table with screws, as a result, closed the shaft with a jointer. I welded two brackets from the 70's corner to the machine bed. On the brackets - a guiding corner.

Made a sliding table from a duralumin plate. Below is a groove for the guide corner.

Above - an emphasis for workpieces.

With such a device, I can trim boards, bars, making a rectangular even cut.

I can cut workpieces of the same length. I will work - I will show you.

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In this video I share the secret of how to use the Fiolent MFZ-1100e milling cutter so that it does not wedge. At the end of the video anecdote about artisans

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