Do-it-yourself garage repair basement

In detail: do-it-yourself garage basement repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The main requirement that must be met in the basement of the garage is the absence of moisture. What kind of basement finish in the garage will help get rid of dampness and fungus, eliminate mustiness in the room?

It is important to think over all the details of the construction of the cellar under the garage even at the stage of laying the foundation. In this case, it is necessary to immediately prevent the humidity in the basement by performing simple construction work that is easy to do with your own hands.

The foundation of the garage must be properly insulated from moisture from the outside and from the inside. The main problem is the seasonal rise of groundwater and moisture in the basement due to spring and autumn floods.

The picture, when the cellar and the pit in the garage are flooded with water, every spring and autumn, is not uncommon.

The second important requirement is high-quality ventilation of the cellar. In the absence of fresh air, food quickly molds. But this is not one drawback. High humidity causes rapid corrosion of metal, so it is simply dangerous to store a car in a garage with a damp basement.

Ventilation can be either natural - the flow of air is provided by a correctly installed pipe system or forced - the installation of a fan, if it is not possible to remove the pipes during the repair or re-equipment of the garage.

The third requirement is that the walls and ceiling of the cellar or basement in the garage must be insulated. This will provide a positive temperature in cold weather and exclude the appearance of condensation on the walls in summer.

At the first stage of laying the foundation for a garage with a cellar, it is imperative to find out three facts:

  • at what level is the groundwater at the construction site;
  • determine the depth of soil freezing;
  • the structure, depth and waterproofing of the foundation depend on the type of soil on the site.
Video (click to play).

If the garage has already been built and there is a desire to dig a cellar, then you need to pay attention to the following parameters:

  • foundation design - a shallowly recessed strip foundation will not withstand bearing loads; if you remove a large layer of soil inside the building, it is necessary to deepen and strengthen the foundation;
  • with a high location of groundwater, it is necessary to carry out a drainage system;
  • on clay and weak peat soils, it is important to pay attention to serious external waterproofing of the basement.

An important rule for the foundation of a garage with a cellar is that the lowest point of the foundation should be located at least 50 centimeters below the freezing point of the soil. In frost, the soil freezes and pushes out the weak foundation, which leads to rapid deformation and destruction of the entire building.

When digging a pit in an already built garage, especially if the cellar floor is much lower than the bottom of the garage foundation, it is important to keep the distance to the walls correctly:

  • to the garage wall, the basement wall is located at a distance equal to the depth of the basement below the basement base.

For example, the cellar floor is 1 meter below the garage foundation. This means that you need to step back a meter from the foundation when digging a pit.

According to the dimensions of the preliminary drawing, you need to dig a pit and carefully tamp the soil. The dimensions of a standard cellar for a garage are 2.5 m (width) by 2 meters (depth).

Important. Basement walls should not be located more than half a meter from the garage wall. This is necessary for high-quality waterproofing.

After the pit has been dug, and the floor is carefully rammed, we proceed to the construction of the buried foundation:

  • a layer of crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured over the ground, the minimum thickness is 3 cm;
  • a rough concrete screed is poured over gravel or gravel, the thickness is from 7 to 10 cm, depending on the strength of the soil at the site;
  • after the concrete screed has solidified, a layer of roofing material is mounted as waterproofing. It is necessary to lay the material in two layers, gluing the sheets together with liquid resin. In addition to roofing material, you can use waterproofing under concrete floors or bituminous mastic, it is more expensive, but guarantees quality and reduces construction time;
  • a layer of roofing material must be installed on the walls of the pit, the height of the overlap on the wall is at least 15 cm.

Important. It is imperative to install a drainage system around the perimeter to drain ground and seasonal waters.

A reinforced concrete screed made of cement with water-repellent additives ("Dehydrol Lux" 10-2) is installed along the waterproofing layer or poured with ready-made concrete - grade W20. The thickness of the concrete screed of the cellar floor is at least 20 cm.

If you plan to arrange a cellar with a clay floor, then you need to pour clay in several layers and carefully tamp each one. The first layer of clay - 15 - 25 cm thick, the second layer - up to 1 m, is compacted with moistening on sheets of roofing material.

A prerequisite is that the walls of the basement or cellar in the garage must be made only of reinforced concrete or red brick. Silicate bricks and foam blocks do not withstand high humidity even with high-quality waterproofing.

It is easier to lay out the walls in the cellar of the garage with concrete blocks - this will shorten the construction time, but it requires the cost of renting special equipment. If the basement is being built in a finished garage, then it is necessary to concrete the walls of the cellar or perform brickwork.

Basement walls concreting, cement grade not lower than M400:

  • we expose the wooden formwork. Be sure to install spacers to prevent soil shedding;
  • we attach a strong reinforcing mesh. Rigid reinforcement of the walls cannot be done, the mesh from the reinforcement only needs to be knitted with wire. This will prevent the screed from breaking during seasonal heaving of the soil;
  • we concreting the walls in layers. The height of the first layer of concrete is 40 cm;
  • the height of each subsequent layer is no more than 30 cm.

Concrete hardening should occur naturally - the average full hardening time is 28 - 30 days, depending on weather conditions.

Important. When concreting the walls of the basement, be sure to tap each poured layer with a rubber hammer to avoid voids and cavities in the walls.

The brickwork of the basement walls in the garage is performed in one row with an offset of half a brick. Be sure to check the vertical with a level or plumb line every two rows of masonry. Cleaning of seams must be done.

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The garage floor will be the basement ceiling, so the main attention should be paid to the thermal and waterproofing of the floor slab:

  • the floor slab on both sides must be waterproofed with bitumen or bitumen mastic in two layers;
  • insulation of the garage floor from below (basement ceiling) is performed with polystyrene foam - this is the most budgetary option. But remember that mice and rats can ruin the finish. Therefore, the thickness of the foam for insulation of the ceiling should be no more than 5 cm;
  • be sure to plaster the layer of insulation on the mesh. This will protect the insulation from dampness and rodents.

You can also insulate the floor slab from above along the concrete floor screed:

  • a layer of waterproofing (roofing material, bituminous mastic) is laid on the slab;
  • a layer of insulation (polystyrene, expanded clay) is mounted on beacons, the thickness of the insulation layer is 10 - 15 cm;
  • after that, a reinforced concrete screed is poured.

The basement hatch must also be insulated with foam or mineral wool, so as not to create cold bridges in the cellar and not to provoke the appearance of dampness in the basement.