The Gazelle 405 engine is an improved ZMZ-40522.10 engine, mainly reducing the Euro 3 toxicity and increasing the reliability and service life.
The ZMZ-405 was also installed on trucks weighing up to 3500 kg.
The motors are designed for operation in climatic version "U2" in a temperate climate, i.e. at temperatures from -45 to + 40 degrees and humidity up to 100% at + 25 degrees.
Repair of the gazelle 405 engine begins with the removal of the engine from the car and its further disassembly.
If, while repairing the 405 gazelle engine, holes were found on the cylinder head on the cylinder walls, with cracks on the upper surface and on the ribs that support the main bearings, with holes on the jacket and crankcase, everything must be replaced with new ones.
As a result of wear, the cylinders in the cylinder head become along the length of an irregular cone, and around the circumference - an oval. The greatest wear occurs in the upper part of the cylinders against the upper compression ring, when the piston is in TDC, and the least wear occurs in the lower part, when the piston is in BDC.
When repairing the gazelle 405 engine, all cylinders in one block are adjusted to one repair size with a tolerance of + 0.036 ... + 0.072 mm from the norm. An exception is when it is necessary to remove shallow scratches on the cylinder mirror (by 0.10 mm), here only defective cylinders can be corrected.
In cases where only a limited number of pistons are available, it is recommended to calculate the nominal diameter for each cylinder based on the actual size of the piston skirt diameter intended for the given cylinder, and to machine the cylinders with the machining tolerance specified below.
Deviations from the geometrically correct shape of the cylinders should be located in the tolerance field of the dimensional group for the cylinder diameter.
Often, repairs include replacing the bushings of the countershaft bearings with standard or repair ones, of increased thickness, depending on the wear of the bore holes in the cylinder block, and subsequent boring of the inner bore of the bushings to a standard or overhaul size, depending on the wear of the countershaft bearing journals. The repair sleeves are made of an antifriction alloy (see Figure 7).
Replace standard bushings with repair ones also when they are loose or turned.
Remove the tube before installing the intermediate shaft supports. When installing the repair sleeves, make sure that the holes of the oil channels are aligned. To make boring of intermediate shaft supports in one installation. Press in the tube with anaerobic sealant.
If the intermediate shaft journals are worn out, then "grind" them under the repair size.
If the holes for the oil pump drive have worn out more than the allowable one, then the holes must be bored to the repair size for the repair bushings. The repair sleeves are made of gray cast iron with an outer diameter of 21 mm and a length: lower - 17 mm, upper - 30 mm.
Press in the repair sleeves, drill through the hole with tapered thread in the upper sleeve a through hole for the oil supply Ø 3.5 mm, entering the oil line of the cylinder block, and machine the holes in the sleeves to the nominal size. The machining of the cylinder block bore holes for bushings and bushing bores should be performed in one installation.
Before proceeding with disassembly, you should determine the modification and diagnose the engine. It will scan the electronic system of control units and show what defects and malfunctions are present.If it is not possible to determine the cause of the malfunction using diagnostics, then you cannot do without disassembling the engine.
Repair begins with the removal and subsequent disassembly of the engine. In order to remove the jerking of the motor, you need to set a certain clearance in the valves. Replacing spark plugs is indispensable.
If, in the process of disassembling the engine, scuffs, cracks or dents on the walls of the engine cylinders are found, then they will have to be replaced with new ones. It should be taken into account, that all cylinders of the same block should be fitted to the same size ... The permissible size deviation should be no more than 0.036 - 0.072 from the norm.
Very often, repairing the ZMZ-405 engine involves replacing the intermediate shaft bushings with increased thickness. If the journals of the intermediate shaft of the engine are worn out, then they can be slightly sanded to the repair size. The holes for the pump drive can be repaired by boring them to repair size.
To increase the reliability and dynamism, you can tune the ZMZ-405 engine. To do this, replace the bushing on the upper head with a thicker one, for example from a Mercedes. You will feel the difference immediately.
An important and very responsible one is the repair of the 405 cylinder head of the engine. Correctly repaired head means 70% of accurate and well-coordinated engine performance ... That is why the head repair is of great importance.
After disassembling the head, be sure to rinse all parts in gasoline. Remove carbon deposits from the combustion chamber. Examine the head carefully. If there are cracks on the bridges or on the walls of the combustion chamber, then the head should be replaced with a new one.
Using a metal ruler and probes, check the integrity of the surface of the head that adjoins the block. Putting the ruler edge on the surface of the head, then across, along, measure the size of the gap. If it exceeds 0.1 mm, the head should be replaced.
Also, be sure to check the clearances between the valve pushers and the channels for the hydraulic pushers. In this case, the size of the gap should be determined as the difference between the diameters of the channel and the hydraulic pusher. The maximum allowable gap size should be 0.15 mm.
VIDEO
The ZMZ-405 engine is a powerful and reliable power unit. That is why the frequency of repairs and malfunctions is much less than that of other engine modifications. By carrying out regular preventive maintenance, timely oil change and technical inspection, you can significantly increase the resource of the ZMZ-405.
Dear experts, we need your help in consultation! I have a gazelle engine 405 euros 2 2006. There were pistons B, I put D and the repair rings were set, adjusted the gap. I went to the minder, the car began to twitch and pull badly. He found out about the rings he had put on and said that the engine block now needs to be bored. Is this true or does he want to earn extra money? Give advice!
ring clearance should always be checked. go to another mechanic. fill out the profile and teammates will respond
Yes, there is a special here, so he considers himself no longer going to him. He said that if we set the standard, then the gap will be large and, therefore, he put the repair rings, though he adjusted the gap to a minimum almost all day. Does it mean only capital now? A month ago, I measured the compression was 10 everywhere.
And how much did you drive after measuring the compression? What is she like now?
And how much did you drive after measuring the compression? What is she like now?
Approximately 5000 km of compression has not yet been measured, it seems to be running normally, although it does not accelerate more than 105.What should I do in his queue, I’ll call otkazyvalsya or don’t even know! I will try to measure and write not all of us measure compression. Post has been editedlex-69: 04 September 2012 - 15:38
The guys took block 40522 for renovation, I want to put myself.
Post has been editedSplav61: 01 January 2014 - 18:02
The guys took block 40522 for renovation, I want to put myself.
From the factory, sometimes I came across such that there were separate groups. If you sweep the honing, measure it with an internal gage and put group B. And I wonder how you were going to grind the hundredths?
From the factory, sometimes I came across such that there were separate groups.
Well, I don’t know what kind of workers, there were cars from the store,
That's just what I wanted to hear advice on whether the blocks are sharpened for groups or only for repair sizes.
They tell me that before boring you need to provide them with a piston and they will already grind the block under them. (In mechanics, so.)
I wanted to hear advice whether the blocks are sharpened for groups or only for repair sizes.
And such a question I can measure the cylinder with a vernier caliper, should it show 95.5 mm?
Measurement is made on the un-worn part of the cylinder, in the area of the upper edge of the block.
Clean all mating surfaces of the block from gaskets adhered and torn during disassembly.
Fasten the cylinder block to the stand, carefully inspect the cylinder mirror, if necessary, remove the unworn belt over the upper compression ring with a scraper. Metal should be removed flush with the worn surface of the cylinder.
Unscrew oil plugs and blow out all oil passages with compressed air. Screw the plugs back into place.
Assemble the crankshaft To do this, unscrew the plugs of the dirt traps of the connecting rod journals and remove deposits from them, rinse and blow out with air, put the plugs in place, tighten them to a torque of 37.51 Nm (3.8.5.2 kgcm). For reliable locking on the threads of the plugs, apply an anaerobic sealant "Stopper-9".
Check the condition of the working surfaces of the crankshaft. No nicks, scuffs or other external defects are allowed.
Wipe the bed with a napkin under the liners in the block and in the main bearing caps.
Install the upper main bearing shells (with grooves and holes) in the block bed, and the lower ones in the cap bed (without grooves), wipe the shells with a napkin and lubricate them with engine oil.
Wipe the crankshaft main and connecting rod journals with a napkin, lubricate them with clean oil and install the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
Lubricate and install the thrust bearing half washers:
- upper - in the grooves of the third bed with an antifriction layer with grooves to the crankshaft cheek;
- the lower ones - together with the third main bearing cover. The protrusions of the lower half washers must fit into the grooves of the cover;
Install the caps of the remaining bearings on the corresponding main journals, screw in and tighten the bolts securing the main bearing caps to a torque of 98. 107.9 Nm (10.11 kgcm).
On the lower surfaces 1, 2 and 4 of the main covers, their serial numbers are engraved. On the lower surface of the cover of the third main bearing there is a threaded hole for fastening the holder of the oil pump, and on the side surfaces there are grooves and grooves for installing the half washers. The main bearing caps are installed according to their numbering, orienting themselves so that the grooves for the insert mustache in the cap and the block are located on one side.
Turn the crankshaft, turning it should be free with little effort.
Check the axial clearance of the crankshaft (Figure 1), which should be no more than 0.36 mm. For a worn crankshaft and thrust bearing half washers, the clearance is 0.06 ... 0.27 mm. If the axial clearance of the maximum permissible value is exceeded, replace the thrust washers with new ones and measure the axial clearance again. If, when measured, it turns out to be more than 0.36 mm, replace the crankshaft.
Take an oil seal holder with an oil seal of the rear end of the crankshaft, check the suitability of the oil seal for further work. If the oil seal has worn lips or loosely covers the crankshaft flange, replace it with a new one. It is recommended to press the stuffing box into the stuffing box using a mandrel. The oil seal should be installed with the boot outward of the engine, the working edge, covered by the spring, inward. Before pressing, apply Litol-24 grease to the outer surface of the gland to facilitate pressing.
Fill the ⅔ cavity between the working edge and the boot of the rubber cuff with CIATIM-221 grease, install and fix the oil seal holder with the gasket to the cylinder block.
Install the flywheel to the rear end of the crankshaft, aligning the flywheel pin hole with the dowel pin pressed into the crankshaft flange.
Install the flywheel bolt washer, screw in and tighten the bolts to 70.6. 78.4 Nm (7.2-8.0 kgcm).
Press spacer sleeve and bearing into flywheel seat. Press in the bearing by applying force to the outer ring. Pressing on the inner ring will damage the bearing.
Next, we collect the connecting rod-piston group - article "Subassembly of the connecting rod-piston group of the engine".
Fasten the holder to the oil pump.
Place the oil pump with gasket on the cylinder block mating face and secure.
Cut off the protruding ends of the chain cover gaskets and the gland seal gaskets protruding above the plane of the block, chain cover and gland holder.
Install and secure the oil sump with gasket and clutch crankcase booster.
Lubricate the intermediate shaft bushings with engine oil, install the key in the groove at the end of the intermediate shaft and install the intermediate shaft in the cylinder block.
Screw the two bolts into the front intermediate shaft flange. Install the gear with the nut on the rear end of the shaft, aligning the keyway of the gear with the key, and rotating the intermediate shaft using two bolts, tighten the gear nut until it stops.
Install and secure the intermediate shaft flange.
Lubricate the oil pump drive shaft and gear teeth with engine oil and insert the shaft into the hole of the block until the gear wheels of the oil pump drive and the intermediate shaft engage.Insert the hexagonal shaft of the oil pump drive into the hole of the bushing of the drive shaft, so that it fits into the hexagonal hole of the oil pump shaft.
Install and secure the oil pump drive cover with gasket.
Check the ease of rotation of the intermediate shaft. The shaft should rotate freely without binding.
The ZMZ 405 engine was produced by the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant. The power unit replaced the 406th motor. By and large, there is not much difference between the 405 and 406 engines. The first, in turn, was modernized and the designers took into account the shortcomings of its predecessor.
The successor to the 406th engine was the ZMZ 405 and its modifications. ZMZ 405 has high performance. This is a clean injection engine with increased power. Compared to its predecessor, the 406 had less power and a larger engine displacement. The motor received an environmental standard - Euro-3, which made it possible to sell cars abroad.
At the same time, the designers were able to eliminate a number of flaws that were found in the ZMZ 405. In the process of developing the new engine, there was an upgraded valve cover, a gas distribution mechanism, and a two-layer metal cylinder head gasket installed.
The ZMZ 405 engine has technical characteristics:
The 405 engine was equipped with a 5-speed manual transmission. The clutch was installed dry. With smudges from under the rear crankshaft oil seal, the disc usually got wet, and the unit worked malfunctioning.
In many cases, because of this, it was necessary to change the clutch disc together with the crankshaft collar.
ZMZ 4052.10 is the main motor. Used on Volga and Gazelle cars.
ZMZ 40522.10 is an analogue of 4052.10, complies with Euro-2 environmental standards. Used on Gazelle and Volga cars.
ZMZ 40524.10 is an analogue of 40522.10, complies with Euro-3 environmental standards. Used on Volga cars.
ZMZ 40525.10 is an analogue of 40522.10, complies with Euro-3 environmental standards. Used on Gazelle trucks.
ZMZ 4054.10 - turbo version 405, steel crankshaft, forged piston, intercooler, SZH 7.4, power 195 hp / 4500 rpm, torque 343 Nm / rpm. It was produced in small series, cost inadequately expensive, so the tuners preferred to install the proven Toyota 1JZ / 2JZ.
Maintenance of ZMZ 405 engines began with TO-0, which is done after a run of 2500 km. Each subsequent maintenance must be carried out every 15,000 km for petrol operation and 12,000 km for gas.
Every second maintenance requires checking systems such as the valve train, the state of the powertrain ECM, and the health of the sensors. The valve mechanism is adjusted after 50,000 km, or earlier, if necessary. Often, by 70,000, hydraulic lifters fail, which need to be changed all together, since it is not known when the working ones will fail.
The valve cover gasket is replaced every 40,000 km or when a leak forms from under it.
Many car enthusiasts ask themselves the eternal question - how much oil to pour into the engine? It is recommended to fill the 405 motor with semi-synthetic oil marked 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40. To change the oil, you need 5.4 liters, which are poured into the power unit. As practice shows, most motorists perform motor maintenance on their own.
Since the new power unit was based on the old 406, the problems and repairs remained the same. So, the main malfunctions that occur in the internal combustion engine 405 include: frequent breakdowns of the cooling system associated with poor performance of the thermostat, triplet, floating speed and poor start-up.
It is recommended that for ZMZ 405, repairs should be carried out in the conditions of a car service, since it is not always possible to determine a breakdown. This is due to a malfunction when the ZMZ 405 starts up and stalls.In this case, the problem may be hidden in the spark plugs or the electronic engine control unit. If the malfunction is of a mechanical nature, then it is easy to fix it yourself, but if the problem is in the ECU or sensors, then you have to make a trip to the car service.
The ZMZ 405 engine turned out to be structurally simple enough, and at the same time reliable. So, the power unit is unpretentious in consumables. Car owners prefer to repair the ZMZ 405 engine on their own with their own hands. The worst modification of the power unit is the ZMZ 4054 version.
VIDEO
Gazelle repair has many features, and you should know about them in advance before starting any work. The first thing to understand is that common breakdowns are described in the user manual, therefore, after reading this booklet, you can not only identify, but also successfully eliminate most of the faults.
Do-it-yourself Gazelle repairs are mainly carried out due to malfunctions of the car's chassis. In most cases, such a machine is used to transport goods, and the Gazelle Business can be used as a vehicle for passengers. Due to the fact that many motorists often overload the car, the suspension elements wear out and break much faster.
Repair of chassis on a Gazelle truck
spring bolts;
springs;
leaf springs and springs;
other bridge mountings.
Due to the breakdown of one of the listed parts, the performance of the car can significantly decrease: speed, smoothness, handling. If the Gazelle is used for transportation, it is recommended to carry out regular maintenance, check the chassis, and also carry out design upgrades to increase the operational capabilities of the machine.
Since the repair of most types of faults is described in the instructions, just remember which parts you need to check. To avoid frequent problems, it is recommended:
Less overloading the car. The instructions indicate the recommended weight that the Gazelle design can withstand. Of course, it can be exceeded, but in the future this will affect in the form of breakdowns, and these are unnecessary costs that can be avoided.
Carry out a technical inspection regularly, as it will prevent various troubles on the road.
Drive on the highest quality road surface.
Back to the table of contents
Most users of Gazelle and Gazelle Business car models claim that the axle and suspension of the car have a very strong structure and practically do not break even in the most severe conditions. In fact, this is not the case. The design is really very strong, despite many shortcomings, but it can withstand overload only by a miracle, which will be seen later, when the car "sags" under its own weight. Here are the consequences of overloading:
nuts and bolts on the bridge burst;
the spring and springs are deformed;
fastenings on compression springs are untwisted;
shock absorbers break.
All these breakdowns are easy to fix yourself using a minimal set of tools.
Gazelle truck with air suspension
If you use your Gazelle Business for cargo transportation, strengthen its springs with several additional sheets. In addition, replacing oil shock absorbers with more modern gas ones will come in handy.
Chassis Gazelle Next
Serving the Gazelle with your own hands is quite simple, here is a list of actions that are recommended to be performed regularly:
Every 10-15 thousand km it is necessary to carry out a full check of the car. If the transport is used in harsh conditions, it is recommended to check more often - once every 6-7 thousand km.
Every day it is worth checking the quantity indicators: oil, fuel, coolant, technical fluids in the brake system and clutch drive.
Check the performance of the braking system before driving on the road, as well as the tire pressure.
The driver of the car does not have to perform this service on his own, you can visit the service station, where they will carry out a full diagnosis of the car for problems, pump up the wheels and carry out repairs, but you will have to pay for the services.
You can independently change oil, fuel and other technical fluids, partially disassemble the unit, change some parts.
Inexperienced users are not recommended to completely disassemble the chassis and engine assemblies. Installation of additional electronic devices - stove, radio, GPS, board computer, etc. - leads to a load on the system. Make sure that the electronic resource of the car will be sufficient to maintain the performance of the battery and installed gadgets. Otherwise, the battery will often be discharged, as a result, the car will stop.
The old-school Gazelle engine rarely breaks down, but neatly.
Replacing the engine on a Gazelle car
But there are some engine problems that you can fix yourself. A good example is the service Gazelle 405. It often happens that the car simply stalls. Experts say the problem is the sheer amount of electronics in the system.
Cut the conductor a few centimeters below the oxidized contact.
Strip the wire.
Screw on the new contact, isolate it using any convenient method.
Screw the contact onto the stud. File the contact area with a file.
More complex manipulations with wiring, if you do not have the necessary knowledge and skills, are not recommended to be performed.
VIDEO
The simplest do-it-yourself Gazelle repair consists in various little things - to clean the filter, replace the liquid. Oddly enough, this also helps with fairly serious problems, for example, when the engine does not start.
Clogging of various systems can lead to overheating of the engine, improper formation of the air-fuel mixture, and deterioration of fuel quality. When driving on dusty roads, frequent checking of the air filter is recommended.
Here is a small list of the simplest steps to take to solve various engine problems:
The engine will not start in cold weather. Most likely, this is due to hypothermia of the system. Warming up the knot helps to cope with this inconvenience.
When the engine is turned on, pops are heard from the carburetor or exhaust system - check the filters in the fuel line and air duct, replace or clean them, check the details of the above units.
It is not recommended to disassemble the node without a special stand, as you are more likely to waste more time and get several additional problems than get rid of one problem.
405 engine is an improved engine ZMZ-40522.10. It differs mainly in less toxicity, as well as a long service life and reliability. In addition, the ZMZ-405 was previously installed exclusively on trucks, the mass of which was less than 3500 kilograms.
These engines must be operated in a temperate climate, as well as in a special climatic version called "U2". At the same time, the temperature ranges from minus forty to plus forty degrees, as well as air humidity less than one hundred percent at plus twenty-five degrees.
When a gazelle 405 engine is being repaired, gullies are found on the cylinder head, which are located on the cylinder walls, cracks on the ribs, as well as on top, supporting main bearings that have holes on the jackets and the crankcase. All this must be replaced with new parts.
When the cylinder head cylinders wear out, they take on the shape of an irregular cone along their length and an oval around the circumference.They wear out as much as possible from the top, near the compression rings, when the piston position is at TDC, then the lower part is worn out minimally when the piston is in the BDC position.
When repairing the engine gazelle 405, it is necessary to fit all cylinders in a single block under a single repair size, at which the tolerance will be + 0.036-0.072 millimeters from the norm. An exception is the introduction of shallow scratches on the cylinder mirrors, then only defective cylinders are repaired.
Sometimes it happens that only a small number of pistons are available, in which case it is recommended to calculate the nominal diameters of all cylinders. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the actual size of the diameter of the piston skirt, which is intended specifically for work with this cylinder, for this size it is necessary to machine the cylinders, indicating the processing tolerance below.
Any, even small deviations from the correct geometric shapes of the cylinders are located in the tolerance fields of size groups for the diameter of a given cylinder.
It happens that the repair of the gazelle 405 engine must be carried out, while replacing the bushings of the intermediate shaft supports with repair or standard ones, which have an increased thickness. It depends only on the wear of the bore holes that are in the cylinder blocks, as well as the subsequent boring of the inner bore holes of the bushings under repair or standard sizes. All of them depend only on the wear of the special bearing journals, which are on the intermediate shaft. Repair sleeves are made of antifriction alloys.
Standard bushings are replaced with repair bushings. This is done when they are loosened or rotated.
Before installing the intermediate shaft supports, the tube must be removed. When installing the repair bushings, it is necessary to ensure that the holes of all oil channels match. The countershaft bearings can be bored in a single installation. The tubes must be pressed in with an anaerobic sealant.
If the countershaft journals are worn out, they must be ground to the required size.
If the holes for the oil pump drives are too worn out, then it is necessary to bore the holes, bringing them to the repair dimensions for the repair bushings. The repair sleeves can be made of special gray cast iron with an outer diameter of 21 millimeters, an upper length of 30 millimeters and a lower length of 17 millimeters.
Especially for the article, a ZMZ 406 engine with high mileage was purchased. According to the old owner, he ran more than 600 thousand km in different conditions and was operated by different drivers, including pilots, for whom the hood is part of the car's skin, and not the engine compartment cover.
This engine was stupidly dismantled by bolts without any diagnostics of faults, since the mileage is large and everything has to be done. Having removed and cleaned the head, we saw: the valve seats, especially the exhaust ones, were sown, i.e. this will lead to a decrease or loss of compression. The photo shows that the valves sit deeper than the surface of the combustion chamber. By the way, for the owners of these cars and novice minders, this is a very serious malfunction for an engine with hydraulic lifters, which must be given due attention. We will not get carried away with measurements and numbers in this article, it is in the relevant literature so as not to miss some important points.
Here, too, you can see how the valves are recessed, although the image is of poor quality.
Accordingly, we are taking the block head to the workshop to replace the valve guides, valve seats and grinding, a block for cylinder boring for new repair pistons, and the crankshaft and washer for grinding. What was pleasantly surprised - the dimensions of the necks of the crankshaft were several hundred square meters below the tolerance, although the block inside was covered with a thick layer of oil carbon. But in principle, there is nothing to be surprised at - this is a factory quality.
While we are waiting for the processing results, there is time to figure out other details.
We check the wear of the bushings of the upper connecting rod head - as a rule, replacement is of course better.
We check the wear of the large sprocket of the intermediate shaft from the side of their contact, if there is a working out from the locking plate, then we weld it with a semiautomatic device and give it to grind -
Now, as practice shows, there will never be workings in this place, due to changes in the structure of the metal.
We check the flywheel, if there is production from the clutch disc, then we give it to the turner or grinder to the groove.
They brought the block - as you can see, in addition to boring, it was also polished due to a slight warpage of the surface during operation. If we proceed from practice, then used blocks after boring are nursed much more than new ones, since during the operation they received numerous heat treatments, metal shrinkage, etc.
Yes, it is imperative to grind the block with the front cover so that they lie in the same plane.
Now it should be well washed and all shavings removed from the oil channels.
After cleaning the block, we clean the crankshaft. Having unscrewed the crankshaft plugs, one often has to observe the following picture - the hole is almost completely clogged with oil carbon deposits. We clean, rinse, blow.
It happens that the edges of the plug cuts off, then you can weld a bolt to it and unscrew it.
Repairing the engine of any car is an extremely responsible and serious operation that requires a qualified approach. Along with this, with a great desire and appropriate knowledge, it is quite possible to cope with the conduct of the event in question on your own.
First of all, prepare the site for further unfolding of all elements. There should be enough space so that you can conveniently arrange the parts in order - this will make reassembling the motor much faster and easier. If there is not enough space, label the items in any other suitable way. Mark and remove wires in the same way.
Measure the clean block and crankshaft. Boring may be necessary. If you do not have the appropriate skills, it is better to take the items to the factory or to a specialized workshop - there they will check everything and waste it to the conscience. At the same time, you can give the flywheel and the clutch basket to the specialists. In the workshop, the flywheel will be checked for runout and, if necessary, will be trimmed at the place where the clutch disc fits, after which it will be balanced in combination with the basket and the crankshaft. For our beloved GAS, this service is very useful and necessary.
so that blind threaded holes are completely free of antifreeze, oil and various contaminants.
Important! Wash hands and tools thoroughly before assembling the engine. Carefully inspect the condition of the nuts, bolts and studs for edge and thread breakage or other damage. Be sure to replace suspicious fasteners with new ones - you will not spend a lot of money on this, but the consequences of using low-quality fasteners may not be the most pleasant.
Step 1. Take the engine block and lay it upside down. The dipstick tube will most likely get in the way at this stage, so it is best to install the unit on some suitable and, most importantly, reliable stand. At the same stage, you need to install the main bearings equipped with holes (here they are upper) and lubricate the whole thing with oil. Install persistent half rings on the 3rd support Crankshaft ... For work, half rings that do not have antennae are used. Installation is carried out so that the anti-friction layer "looks" outward.
Assemble all the elements under the hood of the car, observing the reverse order of disassembly. butter ... Don't forget about the coolant. Make sure there are no leaks of any kind. Free the relay from the block, crank the engine with a starter - this way you fill the oil system. In the process of performing this stage, be guided by the readings of the pressure sensor.
VIDEO
Video (click to play).
VIDEO
