DIY lawn repair

In detail: do-it-yourself lawn repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The lawn may need repairs throughout the year. As a rule, it boils down to three operations:

Taking into account the frequent need to sow the lawn with the initial mixture, it is always bought with a margin of 1-1.5 kg for each hundred square meters. (it is perfectly stored for several years without losing germination), and when buying a rolled lawn, usually 1-2 plates are bought in reserve and taken root in the recreational area. Constant monitoring of the lawn - the growth rate, color, density and elasticity of the grass will help to notice the disease or lack (excess) of some substances in time and quickly take action, sometimes eliminating the need for repair work altogether.

If the lawn is badly damaged - it is frozen or melted out, you can completely remove the grass from this area, loosen the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm and sow this place again (40-50 g of seeds per 1 sq. M). You can compact the seeding using a sheet of plywood or a roller. Then the site is watered. A re-seeded area is essentially a young lawn and requires increased attention.

If the reseeding area is large, then it will be taken care of separately. For example, an adult lawn around it is mowed, but a young one is not. If the plot is small, then already 3 weeks after sowing, it is not bypassed when mowing, since the mower passes over it without particularly damaging the undergrowth.

The sparse lawn is cut short (to give a chance for young grass to grow), the soil is loosened to a depth of 3-4 cm, they are sown with reserve seeds, the surface of the lawn is sprinkled with loosened soil (mulch) and watered. Such planted lawns will have to be cut later than usual, after the new grass grows up, since the young grass on them is mixed with the old one.

Video (click to play).

The principle of gradual training of grass to a haircut is also observed, the first few haircuts are adaptive (that is, they shorten the blades of grass by 1-2 cm). It is obligatory to treat the lawn with growth stimulants. If the entire lawn is sown evenly, you can purchase a new seed mix from fast growing grasses. One of the reasons for the sparseness could be poor adaptation of some of the seeds of the previous mixture to local conditions or initially slow growth (there are slow-growing mixtures of lawn grasses). Sometimes "grounding" can help, that is, mulching the entire surface of the lawn with fertile soil.

Both seeding and reseeding can be done during the entire period of lawn growth, except for the end of September-October. The grass sown at this time does not have time to get stronger by the frost and almost always freezes out. If the sowing time at the beginning of September is missed, it is better to postpone sowing until spring or do a sub-winter sowing in November, when the ground begins to freeze and the daytime temperature is no longer higher than 1-2 degrees Celsius. Podzimny dossowing is done by simply scattering seeds over the frozen lawn. They will overwinter "sleeping" and hatch only in the spring.

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Sometimes, if a small area is damaged in a conspicuous place on the lawn or urgent repair is needed, you can put a "patch" from the reserve turf (if any) or by replanting the turf from a less critical part of the lawn. For example, you can cut a strip of lawn 30 cm along the path (by arranging on this place temporarily dumping, a border flower garden or laying a decorative stone, placing a flowerpot, a statue, etc.), and put the resulting turf as patches in place of bald patches. If the patches are made from turf from the same lawn, they will usually grow quickly and then will not differ in color.

If there is no identical sod, you can order a rolled lawn from any company. A new lawn will almost always differ in color from an old one, simply because it is planted with a different composition of grass. Therefore, it is better to turn disadvantage into dignity and make decorative patches - in the form of stars, crescents, complex shapes. Even if later they differ in color, such an original lawn can only cause envy with its creativity.

To make a patch, you need:

If for some reason there is no possibility of sowing or buying a roll lawn, and the original seed mixture has not been preserved, you can restore the lawn with temporary flower beds or a rose garden, and try to take root and propagate the cut pieces of grass in a recreational garden bed. Sod trimmings are placed tightly on a prepared “lawn” bed, the seams are covered with fertile soil and looked after as for a regular lawn.

With careful and careful cultivation, the plants start to grow and quickly form a repair turf that can usually be returned to the main lawn as early as next year. If the turf is trimmed it will return to the lawn as a patch, if allowed to bloom, it is possible to harvest the seeds by autumn for full seeding.

Cochinine collected from the lawn should be composted in layers with ordinary soil or removed scraps of sod, combed out with felt, in order to return to the lawn after a year and a half as soil mulch. Otherwise, the removal of nutrients from the soil will progress and the lawn will not last long. Cochinine can also be used on the site as a material for mulching and feeding earthworms in the garden areas of the site. It is advisable to populate the edge with earthworms, add to it enriching soil microflora (or at least a couple of bags of "living" peat-based earth - from a flower shop). This will speed up the maturation of the mulch.

It is impossible to destroy earthworms on the lawn, without them the meadow will simply die. Those who complain about the ugly "emissions" of worms should not forget about regular brushing out of the lawn with a fan rake, this completely removes the problem and at the same time aerates and enriches the topsoil. You will have to fight ants and aphids, but, as a rule, ants do not settle where there is regular watering.

Even a heavily neglected lawn can be restored with simple maintenance techniques. The sooner you get down to business, the faster you will get a positive result.

On a trampled lawn, it is necessary to carry out aeration and scarification procedure. It is very important to remember that lawn grass grows best on loose, water and breathable soil. The quality of the soil can be improved both when laying and on an already used lawn.

Heavy clay soils are improved by adding sand or minerals such as crushed coal and expanded clay. Thanks to these additives, the earth becomes looser.

However, the cheapest and at the same time the best means of improving the quality of the soil is ordinary building sand. With all this, the soil should not be too loose and sandy. Such soil dries quickly, and the nutrients from it are easily washed out by rains. To increase the ability to retain moisture and nutrients, too loose soil is enriched with clay soil or compost.

Verticulation provides the lawn with maximum air, moisture and nutrients. Due to the intensive use of the lawn, lumps of soil are often compressed, forming a dense impermeable layer a few centimeters below the surface. After some time, because of this, puddles and areas with poorly growing plants appear on the surface of the lawn.
The only way out in such a situation is to carry out scarification: a comprehensive treatment of the underground parts of the lawn, which includes, first of all, aeration and scarification.

During aeration, the sod is cut vertically with sharp rake teeth or verticutter knives to a depth of 3 to 7 cm. In the process of scarification, mosses, weeds and organic residues, that is, a layer of so-called felt, are removed from the lawn. This allows more air, moisture and nutrients to enter the soil and plants.
Scarification destroys some of the lawn, but it is necessary for the grass to regenerate. The first positive results of scarification are already visible after a few weeks. The grass begins to actively bush and the surface of the lawn becomes thicker and more uniform in color. Advice: even if it seems to you that there are ticks, remember that mosses and weeds spread imperceptibly, and therefore verticulation is also necessary as a preventive procedure.
Do not walk on the lawn after scarification

Aeration lawn should be carried out in early summer, after mowing the lawn twice or even three times. The lawn must be freshly cut. In addition, deep piercing of the turf is not used in dry weather, since under these conditions the soil is very hard and highly compacted. Therefore, the most convenient moment for this work is considered to be a non-rainy, but cool and wet day.
Places where especially a lot of felt has formed can be “ventilated” again in the fall. The bald spots that appear on the lawn after scarification (removal of felt) should be covered with sand or compost and sowed with grass of the same type and variety as on the rest of the lawn area. Then you need to feed the grass with fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen (with aeration carried out in June). Potash fertilizers are used in early spring or autumn, and phosphorus fertilizers - in late autumn, every few years. After scarification, it is absolutely impossible to walk on the lawn. The duration of this period is from one to two to three weeks, depending on weather conditions and the quality of the seed.

Gardening tools or earthworms?

There are many different designs of verticutters (aerators or slotters) commercially available. With their help, deep piercing is carried out, making it possible for water and air to reach the roots.

Scarifiers only comb the lawn, removing the felt from it. Surface ventilation to a depth of 1.5–4 cm can also be carried out using a cast-toothed fork. Forks with tubular teeth allow you to go 12 cm deep. Tip: earthworms are very helpful in airing the soil, loosening the ground to almost a meter depth. These animals not only do not harm the lawn, but also process dead plant parts and additionally supply the plants with fertilizer.

For this purpose, compost is used - always mature. Make sure that no weed seeds get into it. 1. The compost on the lawn is applied at the rate of 1-2 liters per square meter. The best time to apply this fertilizer is in spring.
2 To improve heavy clay soils, take coarse sand. It is evenly scattered over the entire surface and covered with a rake. As a result, sand gets into the cracks formed during scarification, which makes the earth softer and better absorbs moisture, and water after rains stops stagnating on the surface of the lawn.

You can save an old or badly neglected lawn only with a comprehensive course of anti-aging treatment. In order for it to bring the desired result, you need to approach the matter professionally and purchase the necessary equipment and tools.
The best time for a redecoration of the lawn: May-June, as well as the end of summer. Rejuvenating your lawn begins with mowing and aerating it. Vertical notches in the turf (aeration result) allow air to enter the soil more easily.This leads to the fact that water enters the deeper layers of the soil, the seeds sown come into closer contact with the soil, and fertilizers are better absorbed. Heavy soils can be improved by adding sand before composting. The quality of light sandy soil is improved with compost. During and after the completion of the course of treatment, constant soil moisture must be maintained. Tip: The regeneration of the lawn continues throughout the summer season, which means that in order for the grass to fully recover, it is better to walk on the lawn as little as possible.

1.RENOVE THE SOD
Ugly bumps and depressions sometimes form on the surface of the lawn. In the place where they appeared, cut the sod, trim it from the bottom and turn it in different directions.

2 FILL WITH EARTH
Fill the grooves with garden soil or a mixture of it with sand, and then tamp down hard. Smooth out small bumps with a spatula and carefully level the surface with a plank.

3. ADOPT SOD
Place the turf in the old place and apply: this way the grass forms new roots faster. Maintain constant moisture in the restored areas and soon there will be no trace of the cuts.

Before starting the restoration of the lawn with your own hands, it is necessary to assess the volume and nature of the damage. It is clear that the excavation work carried out at the height of the summer season is most likely associated with the construction or repair of communication pipes. Such construction requires the removal of a sufficiently large layer of soil, and if the water supply or heat supply on your site passes through flower beds and lawns, then you will have to restore them yourself.

Do-it-yourself lawn restoration after excavation work should be started with cleaning the area. Backfill the ditch dug for the repair of communications, and, if possible, level the soil. This is done with a shovel and rake. The main thing is that the soil for planting new plants does not have bumps or deep pits. If you want to create a perfectly flat surface, you can do this by aerating that piece of land.

Next, you need to clear this part of the lawn from debris. If flowering plants and grasses were damaged in the process of excavation, they also need to get rid of them. The likelihood that they will recover is minimal.

If only green grass is planted on the lawn, and the area of damage is small, you can cover the area with rolled grass. This is also ideal if the excavation had to be carried out in the middle or at the end of the summer season, when there is practically no time for new grass and flowers to sprout. The soil under the roll must be tamped down so that it is several centimeters below the existing green cover. After completing the work, level the grass in the old and new areas with a lawn mower.

If your lawn is damaged in late spring or early fall, prepare the soil for planting. To do this, dig up the ground (in small areas 10-15 cm deep, on large ones - up to 20 cm), insert compost into the soil and treat the area with fertilizers. This will ensure that the plants on the damaged lawn will sprout quickly.

Choose the optimal herb collection that can sprout in the shortest possible time, and plant the seeds on bald patches. It is best to sow them with a sprinkler. Remember that planting seeds is not carried out when the air temperature is less than 16-18 and high humidity.

As soon as the seeds are planted, be sure to water the soil and cover with a layer of straw (if not, with plastic wrap). So the soil will retain moisture and warmth, and the seedlings will sprout faster. In addition, the protective layer will keep birds and rodents away from the seeds. Water the seedlings that have risen on the surface of the soil as often as possible, especially if the summer is dry and hot, from time to time feed the young plants with organic fertilizers. This will also accelerate their growth.

To repair the damaged area, select the seeds to match the plants already on the lawn. If you only need to sow grass, choose an unpretentious and fast growing variety. If the lawn involves walking on the grass or playing for children, you need to sow resistant and hardy plants. The collection of these herbs is called "Sports Turf". "English lawn" will look aesthetically attractive, velvety and delicate.

And most importantly, in order to quickly restore the damaged area, be sure to take into account the recommendations for planting and watering herbs and flowers. Very often, incorrectly selected plant varieties lead to the death of not only new seedlings, but also the entire lawn.

Soon a blanket of snow will cover the ground. And while there is still time, hurry up to take care of the health of the green covering so that in the spring the grass grows with renewed vigor, forming an even cover without gaps and bald patches.Remove freshly cut grass and fallen leaves from the lawn as they appear, otherwise, if this process is delayed, the color of the lawn will noticeably fade under the ball of uncollected waste. It is especially necessary to clean up carefully before it starts to rain - high humidity provokes the development of putrefactive bacteria, which can ultimately lead to disease of lawn plants.The next, very important procedure is aeration. It helps water accumulated on the surface of the lawn during heavy rains to penetrate into the soil layers, and thus prevents the formation of an ice crust. Aeration is quite simple. The main thing is to do the procedure in sunny weather on dry soil. To carry out the piercing process, you will need: a garden pitchfork, a walk-behind tractor with a special attachment (an excellent choice is the multifunctional Stiga Silex 95B). It is most convenient to use an aerator. Inexpensive and high quality models include AL-KO Combi Care 38 P Comfort and MTD Optima 35 VO. One of the most common manufacturers of such garden equipment is Bosh, you should pay attention to the AVR 1100 and ALR 900 devices. Image - DIY lawn repair

Treating the lawn with aerator

Many gardeners prefer to renovate their lawn in the spring, but there are operations that are best done in October. Of course, this does not apply to overseeding of young grass - due to the upcoming frosts, the shoots will not sprout or even die under the snow and ice, and in the spring, areas devoid of vegetation will be more noticeable.

In October, level the lawn with a mixture of sand and dry leaves. You need to fill in and tamp small grooves, and leave deeper ones for spring alignment. To increase the fertility of the soil on the lawn, the area of the lawn is sprinkled with dry compost, after mixing it with peat.

Every year, after winter, our lawns are often in poor condition. Holes, frayed edges, bald patches, mole spots and other issues add to the headache as we want everything to look great when spring is knocking on the door.

It can be easy restore the lawn , you only need good weather and desire, and of course good advice on how to do it. It is also worth recalling the corresponding tools. Without them, nothing can be done, even if they really wanted to.

We start by assessing the situation and drawing up an action plan, and of course we stop worrying. Only we ourselves can help the lawn and return it to its not-so-old luxury. Every moment is good, there is no single correct period. It is important that the lawn is thawed and dry enough.

So, we are walking around the garden, looking out for fungal diseases, and which part needs to be repaired so that we can calculate how much land and seeds will be needed for lawn restoration ... We carefully record everything in our head or on paper.

Conventional metal rake;

Light rake (fan);

Scarifier or Aerator;

Knife for trimming the edge (edge) of the lawn;

Shovel for cleaning cut turf;

Bucket or wheelbarrow.

Step one - roll up the surface of the lawn, if it swells after frost. On the surface of the lawn, you will see uneven raised areas formed by the raising of grass due to frozen water. The lawn must dry and thaw before rolling, and the shaft must be at least 60 kg. Rollers that are too light are not sufficient for the grass. If your lawnmower is equipped with a roller, all you need to do is raise the cutter bar and walk with it on the lawn.

Step two - we rob the lawn, to clean the surface, remove the fallen leaves and needles. The lawn looks better right away. This procedure is best done with a flat tooth rake with flat plastic teeth.

Step three - mow the lawn quite low by 4-5 cm to make it easier to carry out other procedures. We check at what level the mower is and, if necessary, lower the position of the knives.

Step four - we carry out scarification or aeration, or both procedures.

This job sounds simple, but it takes dexterity and precision as curved edges won't look elegant. Therefore, it is worth practicing in a slightly less visible place, and only then move on to the front of the lawn. Straight lines will require planks or metal strips. We make rounded or wavy ones "by eye", assessing the effect visually and correcting it in a timely manner. You can put a garden hose, which will help us define the shape of the lawn to some extent and make our work easier.

We apply the tool and stick it into the sod with a strong movement, then pull it out, without removing it to the end, and stick it near and slightly from the side. The line should be smooth and straight. The whole procedure depends on this. I assure you that this can be learned.

Power cutters are more efficient at trimming, but less accurate and more expensive. Suitable for larger areas or urban green spaces where such clarity is not required.

After pruning, we tear off or trim the cut off sod with a shovel and discard it on compost or pile it up (this will make a fertile sod land).

We can use the sod immediately to patch up holes after winter. We cut it arbitrarily, take out a little earth, prick it with a shovel, level it and, in the depression that turned out to be, lay out the lawn scraps. We tamp it well, prune it and water it abundantly.

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The lawn on the backyard is a true beauty and pleasure for the owners, which does not require special maintenance. However, for many reasons, even the most ordinary lawn may require minor or more extensive repairs.

A beautiful lawn will not only decorate the personal plot, but also emphasize the status of its owners.

Let's consider the main causes of damage to modern lawns and learn how to repair the lawn on our own.

Usually, the grass becomes unusable after winter, long heavy rains, and also due to the excessive number of underground passages that moles make, thereby preventing the roots of the lawn grass from developing normally. In any case, there is no need to rush to plow the soil and equip your lawn from scratch.

The best way out of this situation is to repair the lawn by overseeding new grass. The best time to restore the lawn in this way is spring or mid-autumn. There are two main ways to overseed a lawn: overseeding the entire perimeter of the lawn and overseeding the affected areas. Let's consider them in turn.

Overseeding the grass around the entire perimeter of the lawn

If the lawn turns yellow, then you need to re-sow the grass.

For these purposes, you must first remove all unnecessary from the lawn. If flowers grow, then it is better to transplant them temporarily. You also need to make sure that there is no large debris on the lawn. Before overseeding, when the surface is cleaned, it is necessary to thoroughly walk over the lawn with a garden rake.This is very important in order to loosen the soil well and make it airy. In this case, it is necessary to loosen about 1.5 cm in depth. And you should not be afraid to damage the grass in this case - all the same, you will sow the lawn. When loosening, the weak and unusable grass will be removed by itself, and the healthy one will remain unharmed.

Now move on to preparing your lawn grass seeds. Take seeds and fertile (preferably peat) soil in a 1: 2 ratio. Mix all this thoroughly and go directly to the overseeding process: scatter this mixture of seeds with peat as evenly as possible over the entire surface of your lawn, and then pour plenty of water. It is necessary to water it with "rain" so that air flows to the seeds and so that they do not go too deep into the soil.

Overseeding the grass on the affected areas of the site

Overseeding the grass can only be done if the lawn is damaged only in some places.

Repairing lawns in this way is suitable when the lawn in general is perfect, but there are several affected areas that spoil the whole picture. Again, thoroughly clean the entire perimeter of the lawn of debris and valuable plants and flowers. Look around visually and clearly determine where the lawn is affected and requires restoration. Take a scythe or lawnmower and cut all the grass in the damaged areas as low as possible. Clear cuttings from the soil. Then take a rake (or better, a special garden cultivator) and carefully loosen the top layer of soil. But now loosening must be done to a depth of inward from 9 to 16 cm. After such procedures, it is necessary to curb the soil, leveling its surface.

Start sowing seeds. Again, mix the seeds with peat as described above, and sow the seeds over the lawn, but not over the entire surface, but only on the affected areas. At the end of sowing, it is imperative to compact the top layer of the earth with a regular sheet of plywood. Just don't get too carried away! Press lightly on the leaf so that the top of the soil is only slightly compacted and does not harden too much later. Then spray the entire lawn with rain, paying particular attention to the areas where the new grass is planted.

Usually, depressions or small pits appear as a result of insufficient quality soil cultivation in these places, as well as due to decay of organic plant debris or debris. In this case, at the place of the depression, you need to remove the upper sod, then carefully cut the top layer of the earth using a sickle, while deepening as much as possible, select more soil, and pour fresh soil into the hole in its place, slightly trampling it down. Sod is laid on the top layer, tamped a little and watered.

The bald patch on the lawn must be completely covered with new turf with lawn grass.

But as for the bald spots, it is not at all difficult to restore them. Repairing the lawn will consist in cutting a template from an ordinary sheet of plywood to the size of a bald spot, applying it to the affected area and carefully removing the remnants of grasses along with the roots along the contour of the template. It is advisable to remove the upper part of the soil. Then the soil is cultivated with soil, slightly pressed, and a new sod with dense lawn grass is applied on top of it, which can either be taken from another place on the site, or previously germinated in a pot. Another option is to make an elementary overseeding of the grass.

This reason is the most common, because in any case, the edges of the lawn over time begin to deteriorate and lose their decorative appearance. We may even just brush against the edges of the lawn when passing by, or riding a bicycle or other vehicle. Repairing a lawn with such damage is very similar to eliminating bald spots.

The solution to this problem is to first cut the top layer of sod around the damaged edge. Then the sod is turned the other way around - so that the damaged edge is inside the perimeter, and the fresh one is outside.The turned inward edge of the lawn can be sown a little with fresh seeds, and the outer (fresh edge) can be trimmed by cutting exactly along the marked perimeter. Then thoroughly water the lawn with water and remember to keep it moist enough until the seams of the restored edges become invisible.

Sometimes cracks appear in the lawn that are not even visible to the naked eye. To eliminate them, you need to mulch the soil.

With this problem, it is enough to do a simple mulching of the soil. Before this, the grass must be cut halfway if it has grown sufficiently. First, prepare new soil for your lawn. Take peat, humus, sand and ordinary turf soil in equal proportions. Mix it all thoroughly and spread it evenly over the lawn. This can be done around the entire perimeter, and not only in places where cracks are formed. Such a simple procedure will renew the lawn and prevent cracks from forming in new places. Smooth it out with small rakes or hard brooms so that all cracks and holes are well filled with soil. Then lightly spray your lawn with water.

In general, such repairs to lawns are best done every spring, as it also helps to improve the structure of the topsoil and stimulates the development of a healthy root system of plants.

After the snow melts at the very beginning of spring, many are faced with the fact that the soil on the lawn becomes structureless and very loose. In this case, it is necessary to roll the lawn. When the ground is slightly dry, take a medium-weight roller (about 70 kg) and roll it 2-3 times across and along the site. In this case, do not apply force, but roll out evenly - after a while the soil itself will become as needed.

It is very important not to overdo it here, as excessive rolling can damage the grass and clog the seeds that have not yet sprouted into the ground. Therefore, it is better to tamp down insufficiently and then repeat the procedure than to overdo it and sow the lawn from scratch.Repair of the lawn, as a rule, is carried out in areas where part of the lawn has been preserved, and part urgent recovery... Do-it-yourself lawn rescue.

Burning out the grass in the sun

Freezing grass in winter

Damage to grass by vehicles or playgrounds

Animal excrement can play a bad trick on the lawn

Diseases and mosses on the lawn can kill the grass

Improper use of fertilizers and herbicides

Grass grows poorly in shaded areas

Moles, anthills, earthworm emissions

If conditions are favorable, the herb has the ability restore

Weeds are masters of survival and are able to repopulate damaged areas before your lawn recovers.

Dead grass will never recover.

Therefore, the repair of the lawn should start right away, as soon as the lawn requires it. If for some reason you need to postpone the repair, plant grass seeds in these places, it's like minimum.Some reasons may require more serious intervention:If the area is full of weeds, the lawn will most likely need to be re-planted.

Worn or compacted areas due to excessive loading:
Condensed areas should be aerated; if the grass is badly damaged, seed should be sown.

Low and sparse grass cover caused by overhanging trees, shrubs, architecture:
If possible, eliminate shading, use shade-loving grasses. Loosen the top layer of the earth, sow shade-loving grasses, water, the earth should not dry out.

Very slight irregularities of up to 2.5 cm can be eliminated by applying top dressing and earthing the lawn. Significant irregularities should be corrected more drastically.Circle the area that needs fixing with a shovel, dig it in, divide the turf into pieces and dig it out, it is advisable to remember the order of the pieces of turf, then it will be easier to lay. If this is a hill, remove the excess land, if there is a hole, add soil (preferably from the same area or similar in composition), lay the turf in its place, trample and water it.WARNING: Do not turn the turf upside down and do not leave it in the open sun, it dries quickly and may die.You need to sow seeds the same mixture, as the main lawn, otherwise young grass can be very different in structure and color and greatly spoil the view. Overseeding rate of 40-60 seeds g / m².

Remove dead grass by raking out the lawn.

Loosen the soil in the damaged area.

Lightly sprinkle the sown areas with fertile soil of 3-5 mm.

Slightly compact the soil with a roller or piece of board to ensure good contact with the soil and to keep the seeds from drying out.

Water the under-sown area, do not allow it to dry out.

After 7-10 days (depending on the type of grass, temperature, etc.), young shoots of the grass will sprout. Read more about sowing.

Quickly repair damaged areas you can use, so to speak, "spare" turf, taking it from a special nursery plot, if any, or from less important areas, where you may have planned paths, flower beds, flower beds, and so on. Having prepared a niche for the thickness and size of your turf, lay it down. Sprinkle the joints and cracks with earth and add.

Mowing after renovation should be normal and the mower blades should be sharp. Do not forget about the damaged areas and after you have done all the manipulations with them, they need care: watering, feeding and adequate lighting.

Almost every lawn is damaged from time to time - trodden paths, mole heaps, patches of solid, like concrete, soil, etc. Acting skillfully, the lawn can instantly return to its former splendor with your own hands.

DIY lawn repair

If the fertilizer burns the grass, wash off the excess with a strong jet of water and then repair the damaged area.

If you walk a lot on the lawn, the grass on it begins to thin out, and sometimes completely bare areas of land are formed. Such damage can be quickly repaired by sowing a small amount of turf mixture. It is better to use the same mixture that is used for sowing the lawn, or purchase a special set of seeds for lawn restoration.

Loosen the soil with a rake or a cultivator and add an earth / sand mixture to eliminate unevenness. Sow the seeds, tamp them lightly with your feet or a board, and sprinkle a thin layer of earth on top, preferably a lawn potting mix. Moisten crops constantly. The grass will appear in two weeks.

Small bald patches can be repaired faster in another way. It is necessary to cut out such a patch and in its place transplant a piece of sod from a distant corner of the lawn. To do this, cut a large enough piece of healthy turf here with a shovel.

Then slightly loosen the soil where you cut out the bald patch and add a little fertilizer to it.

The loose soil that makes up mole piles is an excellent substrate for potted plants. Remove it from the lawn with a shovel, and sow a patch of bare earth with lawn grass.

Turf patches

You may need to add more soil to the groove to keep the surface level. Fit a piece of healthy turf exactly to the groove, place it in place and press the board against the soil. With the help of such a transplant, you can also repair the edges of the lawn.

If your lawn was started a few years ago and is, frankly, unattractive, it can still be restored without a lot of effort. The sooner you start restoring the lawn, the sooner you will be pleased with the result. On the trampled lawn, aeration and scarification should be carried out.

The looser the soil, the better the lawn grows, and do not forget that the soil must be air and water permeable.
The quality of the soil can be improved during the laying, however, as in the area that is already in use.
Even extremely heavy clay soil can be improved by adding squeak or crushed coal and expanded clay. Thanks to the addition of these elements, the soil will become noticeably looser.

However, there is also a cheaper and more affordable way that is not inferior in efficiency to the above additives: building sand. It is important to ensure that the soil is not too loose, sandy, as it dries quickly, and minerals and nutrients are washed out with water. To increase the soil's ability to retain water and useful minerals, too loose soil is mixed with clay, and compost can also be added.

The scarification procedure is aimed at providing the lawn with the best ventilation, circulation of water and nutrients.

The area, which is often used, has compressed lumps of soil, this creates a thick layer through which air and water cannot pass through. After a while, water clots form, which inhibit the development of plants.

Verticulation is the only solution in this situation. Scarification includes procedures such as aeration and scarification. Let's consider all three procedures in more detail:

Aeration. During this procedure, it is necessary to cut through the sod with a rake with sharp teeth, or with a verticutter. The depth of the slot varies from three to seven centimeters.
Scarification. This procedure consists of removing moss, weeds and other organic residues (also called felt). Thanks to scarification, the soil is better enriched with air, water and nutrient minerals
Verticulation. This procedure partially damages the lawn, but without it the grass will not recover. The positive effect of scarification can be seen within a couple of weeks. The grass bushes much more actively, and the surface of the cover is denser and with more juicy flowers. Remember that moss and weeds grow invisibly, so scarification is also useful as a preventative measure for a healthy lawn. It is important to know: do not walk on the site after verticulation!

Aeration of the lawn will be much more effective if done in June, after two or even three haircuts. It is very important that the lawn is mowed. Deep piercing of the drain should not take place in dry weather, for the reason that the soil is too hard and dense.

In places with a large accumulation of felt, you can also ventilate in the autumn. The baldness that may appear on the site after the felt has been removed must be covered with compost (you can also use sand) and sow the grass from the same family that grows on the site.

After that, you need to feed the site with fertilizer with a high nitrogen content (this applies to aeration, which was carried out at the beginning of summer). Fertilizers with a high potassium content are used in March-April, or early autumn, fertilizers with a high phosphorus content should be used in October-November, the procedure should be repeated every couple of years.

After scarifying, never walk on the lawn. The duration of such a period (1-3 weeks), it depends on what weather conditions are, as well as how high-quality seed is.

Video (click to play).