DIY gas boiler repair

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Repair of the automatic system of the gas boiler AOGV-17.4-3

Gasification of Russian settlements has been going on at a rather intensive rate recently. The main element of the equipment that is installed in every rural house is a gas boiler. The author of this material shares his experience in repairing the automation of the popular in rural areas gas boiler AOGV - 17.4-3 produced by the Zhukovsky Mechanical Plant.

Purpose and description of the main units of AOGV - 17.3-3.

The appearance of the heating gas boiler AOGV - 17.3-3 is shown on rice. one , and its main parameters are given in the table.

Its main elements are shown in rice. 2 ... The numbers in the figure indicate: 1-type breaker; 2- thrust sensor; 3-wire of the traction sensor; 4-start button; 5-door; 6- gas solenoid valve; 7-adjusting nut; 8-tap; 9-storage tank; 10-burner; 11-thermocouple; 12- igniter; 13-thermorigulator; 14-base; 15- water supply pipe; 16-heat exchanger; 17-turbulator; 18- bellows assembly; 19-water drainage pipe; 20-door traction interrupter; 21-thermometer; 22-filter; 23-cap.

The boiler is made in the form of a cylindrical tank. On the front side there are controls, which are covered with a protective cover. Gas valve 6 (fig. 2) consists of an electromagnet and a valve. The valve is used to control the gas supply to the igniter and burner. In the event of an emergency, the valve automatically shuts off the gas. Traction breaker 1 serves to automatically maintain the vacuum value in the boiler furnace when measuring the draft in the chimney. For its normal operation, the door 20 should freely, without jamming, rotate on the axis. Thermostat 13 designed to maintain a constant water temperature in the tank.

The automation device is shown in rice. 3 ... Let us dwell in more detail on the meaning of its elements. Gas passing through a purification filter 2, 9 (fig. 3) enters the solenoid gas valve 1... To valve using union nuts 3, 5 traction temperature sensors are connected. The ignition is ignited when the start button is pressed 4... On the body of the thermostat 6 there is a setting scale 9... Its divisions are graduated in degrees Celsius.

The value of the desired water temperature in the boiler is set by the user using the adjusting nut 10... Rotation of the nut leads to linear movement of the bellows. 11 and stock 7... The thermostat consists of a bellows-thermoballoon assembly installed inside the tank, as well as a system of levers and a valve located in the thermostat housing. When the water heats up to the temperature indicated on the dial, the thermostat is triggered, and the gas supply to the burner stops, while the igniter continues to work. When the water in the boiler has cooled down for 10 . 15 degrees, gas supply will resume. The burner ignites from the pilot flame. During the operation of the boiler, it is strictly forbidden to adjust (reduce) the temperature with a nut. 10 - this could damage the bellows. It is possible to reduce the temperature at the setpoint only after the water in the tank has cooled down to 30 degrees. It is forbidden to set the temperature on the sensor above 90 degrees - this will trigger the automatic device and turn off the gas supply. The appearance of the thermostat is shown in (fig. 4) .

Actually, the procedure for turning on the device is quite simple, and besides, it is described in the operating instructions. And yet, consider a similar operation with a few comments:

- open the inlet gas supply valve (the valve handle should be directed along the pipe);

- press and hold the start button. At the bottom of the boiler, a hiss of escaping gas will be heard from the pilot nozzle. Then ignite the igniter and after 40. 60 and release the button. This time delay is necessary to warm up the thermocouple. If the boiler has not been in operation for a long time, the igniter should be ignited 20.30 s after pressing the start button. During this time, the igniter will be filled with gas, displacing the air.

After releasing the start button, the igniter goes out. A similar defect is associated with a malfunction of the boiler automation system. Note that it is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler with the automatics turned off (for example, if you forcibly jam the start button in the pressed state). This can lead to tragic consequences, since with a short-term interruption of the gas supply or when the flame is extinguished by a strong stream of air, gas will begin to flow into the room.

To understand the causes of such a defect, let's take a closer look at the operation of the automation system. In fig. 5 shows a simplified diagram of this system.

The circuit consists of an electromagnet, a valve, a draft sensor and a thermocouple. To turn on the igniter, press the start button. The stem connected to the button presses on the valve membrane, and the gas begins to flow to the igniter. After that, the igniter is ignited.

The pilot flame touches the temperature sensor housing (thermocouple). After some time (30.40 s), the thermocouple heats up and an EMF appears at its terminals, which is sufficient for the electromagnet to operate. The latter, in turn, fixes the stem in the lower (as in Fig. 5) position. The trigger can now be released.

The thrust sensor consists of a bimetallic plate and a contact (fig. 6). The sensor is located in the upper part of the boiler, near the flue gas outlet pipe to the atmosphere. In the event of a pipe blockage, its temperature rises sharply. The bimetallic plate heats up and breaks the voltage supply circuit to the electromagnet - the rod is no longer held by the electromagnet, the valve closes and the gas supply stops.

The arrangement of the elements of the automation device is shown in Fig. 7. It shows that the electromagnet is covered with a protective cap. The wires from the sensors are located inside the thin-walled tubes. The tubes are attached to the electromagnet using union nuts. The body terminals of the sensors are connected to the electromagnet through the body of the tubes themselves.

The check during the repair of a gas boiler begins with the "weakest link" of the automation device - the draft sensor. The sensor is not protected by a casing, therefore, after 6.12 months of operation, it becomes "overgrown" with a thick layer of dust. Bimetal plate (see fig. 6) quickly oxidizes, which leads to poor contact.

Remove the dust coat with a soft brush. Then the plate is pulled away from the contact and cleaned with fine emery paper. It should not be forgotten that the contact itself must be cleared. Good results are obtained by cleaning these elements with a special spray "Contact". It contains substances that actively destroy the oxide film. After cleaning, a thin layer of liquid lubricant is applied to the plate and contact.

The next step is to check the integrity of the thermocouple. It operates in a severe thermal mode, since it is constantly in the igniter flame, naturally, its service life is much less than the rest of the boiler elements.

The main defect of a thermocouple is burnout (destruction) of its body. In this case, the transient resistance at the place of welding (junction) sharply increases. As a result, the current in the Thermocouple - Electromagnet circuit.

The bimetallic plate will be below the nominal value, which leads to the fact that the electromagnet can no longer fix the rod (fig. 5) .

A low value of thermo-EMF generated by a thermocouple can be caused by the following reasons:

- clogging of the ignition nozzle (as a result, the heating temperature of the thermocouple may be lower than the nominal)."Treat" a similar defect by cleaning the pilot hole with any soft wire of a suitable diameter;

- by shifting the position of the thermocouple (naturally, it may not heat up enough either). Eliminate the defect as follows - loosen the screw that secures the liner near the igniter and adjust the position of the thermocouple (Figure 10);

- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

If the EMF at the terminals of the thermocouple is normal (while maintaining the signs of malfunction indicated above), then the following elements are checked:

- the integrity of the contacts at the connection points of the thermocouple and the draft sensor.

Oxidized contacts must be cleaned. The union nuts are tightened, as they say, "by hand". In this case, it is undesirable to use a wrench, since you can easily break the wires suitable for the contacts;

- the integrity of the electromagnet winding and, if necessary, solder its conclusions.

The performance of the electromagnet can be checked as follows. Disconnect the thermocouple lead. Press and hold the start button, then ignite the igniter. From a separate source of constant voltage to the vacated contact of the electromagnet (from the thermocouple), a voltage of about 1 V is applied relative to the case (at a current of up to 2 A). To do this, you can also use a regular battery (1.5 V), the main thing is that it provides the required operating current. The button can now be released. If the igniter is not extinguished, the electromagnet and the thrust sensor are in good working order;

First, the force of pressing the contact to the bimetallic plate is checked (with the indicated signs of malfunction, it is often insufficient). To increase the clamping force, release the lock nut and move the contact closer to the plate, then tighten the nut. In this case, no additional adjustments are required - the pressure force does not affect the sensor response temperature. The sensor has a large margin for the angle of deflection of the plate, ensuring reliable breaking of the electrical circuit in the event of an accident.

It is not possible to ignite the igniter - the flame flares up and immediately goes out.

There may be the following possible reasons for such a defect:

- closed or faulty gas valve at the boiler inlet,
- the hole in the ignition nozzle is clogged, in this case it is enough to clean the nozzle hole with a soft wire;
- the pilot flame is blown out due to the strong air draft;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

The gas supply is cut off when the boiler is in operation:

- actuation of the draft sensor due to blockage of the chimney, in this case it is necessary to check and clean the chimney;
- the electromagnet is faulty, in this case the electromagnet is checked according to the above method;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

Here is a complete description of the gas valve bulkhead. Economy for the gas boiler AOGV Zhukovsky. And in all our subsequent work with you, regarding the diagnosis of unit malfunctions, we will constantly refer to this article in order to get to the true cause of the boiler malfunctioning and quickly defeat the cold making its way into the house.

So! To begin with, consider the insides of the valve in the first small diagram, by the way, kindly provided to us by the Zhukovsky plant. It is not very comfortable, but nonetheless.

How does a gas valve work?

1. Starting the igniter. Push the button of the solenoid valve (22). When pressed, the valve needle will push down through the sealed diaphragm (25) onto the stem of the upper valve (24) and the gas, through the slots in the seat (the seat is not shown in the diagram) of the upper valve (24) will rush into the hole leading to the pilot. It should be noted right away that the position of the top valve (24) is normally closed. If the button is released, the spring will push it back. And the position of the bottom valve is normally open. Another spring opens it until it is closed when the boiler is heated by the “accordion” expansion of the temperature of the bellows-thermocylinder. The O-ring (28) is a sealed gasket between the top valve seat and the body of the block.After the igniter has lit up, the thermocouple has heated up, and we have released the valve button (22), which has remained in the pressed position, you can proceed to start the main burner.

On gas boilers AOGV Econom, a gas valve is cut into the gas pipeline between the gas block and the burner. When starting the igniter on a cold boiler, this gas cock must be closed. This is to ensure that the gas does not split between the igniter and the burner. To ignite the igniter confidently. We open the tap, the burner lights up. If the boiler starts up hot, then the lower valve of the block can be closed. It is kept in this state by a warmed-up thermowell-bellows. In this case, the main burner will start when the temperature control knob is turned in the direction of increasing the temperature.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. After the burner has lit up and the boiler has started to work, the question arises, what will happen next? Then the following happens. The lower valve (23) on a cold boiler is always initially normally open, because it is squeezed out by a spring. This valve will close only when the “accordion” of the bellows-thermo bulb, expanding when the set temperature is set, presses with its stem, which goes inside the valve body, through the seal (27) on the lever, which will begin to close and close the lower valve (23), and the burner will go out. By turning the knob of the temperature regulator of the bellows-thermal bulb, you are able to set any temperature within the permitted range, i.e. to enable the bellows-thermo-balloon “accordion” to press on the stem and close the lower valve both at + 35C and + 90C.

3. Idling. When the lower valve (23) is closed, gas access to the boiler burner is closed, and the boiler remains operating only on the igniter. Transferring heat to the heat carrier of the heating system, the boiler gradually cools down. The "accordion" of the thermal bellows gradually shrinks. The spring of the lower valve (23) tends to push it down, to the open position, and when the spring force is higher than the force of the “accordion” of the bellows-thermal bulb, the valve will move and open the gas access to the burner, which will “light up” from the igniter flame. With the scheme finished.

Now so. Everything that you will see here now represents the foundation on which the correct diagnosis of any malfunction can only be built.associated with the operation of the gas valve AOGV Econom. All other assumptions not based on this knowledge are usually wrong. They either entail absolutely useless waste of time and money, and if successfully implemented, they still do not provide reliability. And the Econom valve is a great and extremely reliable thing. Make sure now.

Functionally, the block consists of two parts. Top and bottom. The first part, the top one, is the hardest part. We need two things: attention and accuracy. There is no rush.

Top part. Remove the solenoid valve from above. When separating the valve, we hold the needle sticking out downward so that it does not fall out. (More details here.)

We take out the rubber membrane. She sits pretty tightly. We are not afraid! Carefully, so as not to damage, we pick it out from there.

Under the membrane we see a plastic cap, into which, when pressed, the needle of the solenoid valve rests. We take out the cap.

Next, we see the upper inner sleeve. The sleeve sits loosely. We take it out. When we take it out, we see that the bushing has a hole for the passage of gas inside our gas block.

This is the hole. When reassembling, these holes, of course, must be aligned. Next, we see a sealing rubber ring between the block body and the upper valve seat. The top valve, when pressed, allows gas to the pilot. The saddle has slots. It is through these slots that the gas goes down, and with the upper valve open, it goes to the igniter. We take a screwdriver and pry this thing right behind the slots.

The top valve seat and the top valve itself are in our hands.If the gas goes down through the slots in the seat, we understand that the working surface of the upper valve is in contact with the seat from below. After that, calmly take out the lower sleeve and see a hole in it. Where does it lead to? Right. To the igniter. This hole is located clearly opposite the fitting, onto which we then screw the boiler igniter nut.

If we look inside the block after all the above manipulations, we will see the bottom valve seat with holes for gas passage to the main burner.

For a more complete understanding, we give a small layout of the elements in the next photo.

1. Bottom valve seat O-ring. Should be between block body and bottom valve seat.

2. Hole through which gas initially enters the unit. This hole should be aligned with the hole in the top bushing. otherwise, the gas simply will not enter the block.

3. These are the holes in the bottom valve seat for the gas to pass to the main burner.

5. Fitting leading gas to the igniter.

6. A hole allowing gas to pass to the igniter. It must be aligned with the hole in the lower bushing of the block.

It should also be noted that at the gas inlet to the block, in the place where the entire block is attached to our boiler, a mesh filter is installed at the inlet.

Now let's move on to the second half of our block.

Bottom part. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing 6 screws.

An amazing picture arises before our eyes that answers the question "What is an Economy gas valve?" Answer: Nothing! The word "Nothing" is meant in an exclusively joyful and positive aspect. I mean its simplicity, accessibility to understanding, even if you like - the beauty of the solution. And most importantly, the independence of the operation of this device from anything. We prove our words.

1. This is a gas pipe through which gas flows to the main burner of the boiler when the lower valve is opened.

2. This is the bottom valve itself. Moreover, it is worth noting that its working surface is on top. That is, when closed, the valve is firmly pressed against the upper seat. The bottom valve is now open, as we filmed it all on a cold boiler.

3. Lever. We call this the bottom valve rocker.

4. A very important thing. A pin resembling an ordinary nail.

5. Sylphion-thermocylinder stem.

Now let's get back to the question of how our gas valve works.

1. Starting the igniter. The start and operation of the igniter belongs entirely to the upper part of the gas block. Pressing the button, starting the gas, igniting the igniter, heating the thermocouple and, as a result of this, fixing the button in the pressed position refers to the operation of the upper valve, thermocouple, solenoid valve and that's it.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. As we can see from the photo taken on a cold boiler, the bottom valve is always open. Those. when you press the button and start the gas to the igniter, part of the gas will go to the burner. To prevent this from happening, there is a gas cock between the gas block and the burner. By the way, this tap is present only at the boilers of the Zhukovsky plant. And then so. See that the stem of the thermal bellows (5) is missing to the rocker arm (3)? When the boiler reaches the set temperature, the bellows-thermo-bulb “accordion” will begin to move apart, pressing on the rocker arm, it will displace the lower valve (2) until it is completely closed. When gas access to the burner is completely closed by the lower valve, the boiler remains at idle speed. Only the igniter works. When the boiler cools down, the “accordion” is compressed, and the lower valve is slightly opened by a spring installed on the valve stem. The burner starts up.

Let's continue. We take the pliers and easily remove the rocker pin. By the way, over time, it starts to jam. Lubricate it or replace with any nail that fits the diameter. We remove the rocker with a screwdriver towards ourselves. As soon as we release the rocker arm, the bottom valve will fall down.

We take the lower valve in our hands. It is no different from the top, except for the length of the stem. Want to change your aperture? It's easy.We pull off the ring that fixes and at the same time tightens the diaphragm.

In this photo, you can clearly see the trail of castor oil to see where the working surface of the valve is in order to evenly tighten the diaphragm with the ring.

So. There is still one thing left. Replacing the stem seal of the thermal bellows assembly. We take out the stock with pliers. We pick out the gum of the seal with a thin screwdriver. We just take it out. We see the place where it lies. We put a new one.
See also here what to do if the temperature regulator knob is jammed in the Economy ZhMZ block

When reassembling, do not forget to align the holes on the bushings with the working holes of the igniter and gas inlet to the block.

Prologue. There is no device in the world that is simpler and more reliable than this thing. It is a pity when we are forced to bring and sell assembled gas valves, instead of unscrewing 10 screws (4 for the magnetic box and 6 for the valve cover), go over, find and see the malfunction and do everything 10 times cheaper than it costs in a new form at the factory.

Golden Rule. In gas technology, problems are not shut up only with money! They are also solved with the head. You can spend money, and the effect of this will be ZERO. It is clear that it is difficult to adapt to this. Well, actually, the article was written for this. )))))

Promise. We personally with you, with our own hands, a little later, will definitely pick (and there is no doubt about that) a couple of imported valves. So that someone does not yell at us about how this valve is more reliable than the valve that we just disassembled.

0:30 Attempt to fix the valve before repair
1:05 Measure the voltage of the thermocouple
1:35 Dismantling the automatic equipment AOGV
3:25 Repair (spring compression)
3:55 Assembly of AOGV automation
5:44 Checking the contact between valve coil and thermocouple
6:06 The result of the repair of AOGV automation and summing up

After filming the first video about the automation of the AOGV boiler, which you can see by clicking on the link below, I started restoring it. The most common problem in the AOGV automation is the poor operation of the solenoid valve and its false triggering and damping of the boiler. I had a similar situation and I solved it by soldering the coil itself, which I am talking about in the first video. During the repair of the AOGV automation unit, I accidentally rubbed shavings into the inside, which interfered with the tight fit of the gas valve, which led to a gas leak and I began to disassemble. After examining the insides of the AOGV automatics, I realized that if you have a working solenoid valve and a thermocouple but still do not properly hold the gas valve by the solenoid valve, then you can try to compress the gas valve spring, which in my case was a success. See how I did it.

Be sure to check out the first video: <>

Video Boiler automation AOGV DIY repair of Samodelkin Uman channel

Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions. However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.

DIY gas boiler repair

Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.

Contents of step-by-step instructions:

First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.

Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity.And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.

A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.

To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.

At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.

The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.

Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.

Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.

Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that the unit will simply split at low temperatures.

If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.

Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to the appearance of many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system. As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.

You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.

Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper

A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system. The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.

Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.

On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.

Typical malfunctions of gas boilers

There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.

If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.

Gas boiler functionality diagram

Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.

If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.

Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.

Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.

It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.

You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.

Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta

According to the recommendations of the manufacturers, the heat exchangers must be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).

Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF

To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.

The problematic place of fans is their bearings. If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.

Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler

To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings. Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.

Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux

Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.

Gas boiler chimney diagram

Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.

Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.

The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This usually happens due to a malfunction of the combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.

Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler

Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.

No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention. Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.

Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.

Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.

Remember! A gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences.Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.

Question: Problems with the thermostat of the gas boiler AOGV 29 Rostov. After replacing the heat exchanger, the water in the boiler heats up to the set temperature of 70 degrees and the burner turns off. Re-switching occurs at a temperature of 40. Can you tell me if and how to adjust the thermostat for a temperature difference of 10-15 degrees?

Answer: Change the thermostat. When you took it off, you had to look at the carving area. I give a guarantee that it has semi-decomposed over these 15 years. And inside is the working part. If now the difference is about 30 degrees, then it will be more and in one day it will stop working altogether.

Question: An AOGV 11.6-3 boiler is installed in a private house. In the fall, when they turned on low gas, there were no problems at all. Then it suddenly got colder (up to -15 degrees), the batteries are hot, the houses are very warm, in short, everything seems to be fine and no one expected any trick. Then, unexpected warming (0. -2) atmospheric pressure drops to 740 mm Hg and the boiler stops working in normal mode 🙁 even at low gas.

The flame on one side constantly goes out (as if blowing out) and flares up again, the igniter burns evenly, if you turn on the gas more strongly, the flame begins to burst out of the boiler into the ignition window, as a result, the gas is turned on very quietly, the door is open (like the window in the kitchen) for air leaks and the house is cold. By the way, she didn't say that in the fall we turned on the boiler at full capacity, tried it, and there were no problems.

Our assumption is that there is not enough draft and possibly a problem with the burner. In addition, water is dripping onto the burner, from where, we do not know. It is very similar to condensation inside the pipe; when the boiler is off, water does not drip. Tell me what can be done? There is no way to get the burner out of the boiler and clean it - everything is tightly welded. How can you increase your cravings? We only have a single idea - to put a fan on the boiler tube

Answer: 100% of the problem is traction. Solution options: Eliminate all possible "leaks", i.e. there should be no holes in the chimney or in the chimney fittings. Insulate the pipe. Build up the pipe.

The fan will not work normally, this is not a smoke exhauster, and you cannot select the characteristics. One more point. Working at low gas pressure is also bad. This causes the flue gas temperature to drop. Try to work for a while at high power, dry the pipe, and then do not lower the gas pressure, but lower the temperature on the thermostat. Let the boiler turn on and off, this is a feature of cheap models, burners and automatics in them only work on and off, and not with modulation, as, for example, in wall-mounted boilers.

Question: The AOGV-23 boiler turns off completely - the wick and the burner. What could be the reason? The thermocouple is intact, how to check the solenoid valve (emk)?

Answer: Take off the EMC and the thermocouple. Connect the thermocouple to the EMC and to the gas stove, heat the working end of the thermocouple. Keep it for 30 seconds, if the button is grabbed - the flight is normal, everything will work, no - check the EMC and the thermocouple. The solenoid valve most likely needs to be disassembled and the working surfaces cleaned on fine sandpaper so that the working surfaces are even. Also, see if it is torn off and where the thermocouple is twisted.

Question: We installed and connected the AOGV gas boiler with skif automatics. The boiler has been in operation for exactly a year, a problem began in the operation of the automation, when it is turned on, the piezo-ignition occurs, the burners ignite, and the ignition continues to work and after a few seconds the boiler goes out, after several such starts it seems to start working but after a temperature automatic shutdown at the next auto start it goes out again. Can you help or advise what to do?

Answer: Your boiler “does not see” the flame. Possible reasons: 1. the ionization electrode is not in the flame; 2. The ionization electrode is dirty; 3.poor contact in the ionization electrode circuit. The third option is the most probable - the wires burn out.

Question: Tell me the reason - the AOGV-11.6 boiler, after replacing the thermostat, there was just a huge difference between the on-off of the boiler - it cools down to 25 degrees, did you really buy a defective thermostat?

Answer: Yes, you need to check the thermostat.

Question: We launched and adjusted the AOGV-11.6-3 gas boiler. This winter I defrosted the hot water coil, advise what to do, buy a new one, or have it been repaired.

Answer: I do not advise anyone to repair boilers using welding. Although there are welders who say that they welded such boilers outside the factory, that is, on their own. Therefore, I advise you to either buy a new boiler or upgrade the system with an old boiler by installing an indirect heating boiler for DHW. But first, be sure to pressurize the boiler, after defrosting it is very desirable. If after crimping it flows, then replace it with a new one.

Question: I turn on the main burner, the gas goes on with some kind of noise, the flame in the igniter is unstable and the thermocouple cools down and turns off everything. Soot builds up quickly. By the way, the flame climbs into the viewing window. Now it works at “low speed”. If you give more, it will turn off.

Answer: The solenoid valve is poorly held. When the igniter is on, it works (stuck). But you turn on the main burner and it knocks down with a stream of gas (snaps off). This can happen either immediately or after 5 minutes or 2 days. It is necessary to remove the blocking membrane inside and tie the button with a wire. Should work.

Question: Please tell me in this question - when you hold the start button, the wick lights up, and after I release the button after 30 seconds or more, the main burner does not light up and the wick goes out.

Answer: Try replacing the thermocouple.

Question: Automation of the AOGV boiler. There is a problem: the ignition solenoid valve button is no longer held. What I checked: I bought a new thermocouple (as it turned out in vain, an old working one). The thermocouple generates an EMF of 25-30mV, normal. I screwed the thermocouple to the EMC valve, on the second
at the end of the valve (which goes to the thrust sensor), i.e., through the winding and the EMC core, the EMF remains 25-30 mV. It also seems to be correct, it means that there is no break in the EMC. The wire that goes to the traction sensor rings out with the body (i.e. resistance 0, i.e. the sensor is not open, i.e. working). Damn, not
works anyway.

The impression is that the core itself has broken, but the same cannot be, there is nothing to break there. Help with advice. Principle of operation: To the right, cable to the traction sensor. The idea of ​​the boiler: while there is gas, the igniter is on, heats the thermocouple, it generates an EMF (I have 30mV), the current passes through the winding, goes right through to the draft sensor, if it is ok, then it is shorted to ground (boiler body), the current goes out through it to the body. Passing through the valve core with a winding, it holds the washer with the stem pressed, the gas reaches the burner. If the washer does not hold, the flame goes out.

To check the valve, I decided to connect a battery to it instead of a thermocouple. I haven't reached AOGV yet, but I checked it on the removed valve. Connected the battery. The second ends of the battery and the valve were also closed among themselves, i.e. made a closed battery-EMC circuit. The washer is magnetized, but not good. There is clearly not enough effort to keep the rod pressed in the AOGV. I drove into a gas store, bought a new EMK the same. 1500r is worth it. He was also connected - one to one picture, also barely attracted. Although the instructions for the new valve say that the pull-off force is 1.9 kg when the EMF from the thermocouple is 18mV + -2mV. What to do?

Answer: The coil is definitely intact if it has not been mechanically damaged. And therefore: either somewhere there is no contact, or when you press the button, you do not press it all the way, that is, the washer does not adhere to the EMC. All contacts must be soldered.

Question: I would like to share a problem related to the Siberia AOGV-11 6-3 boiler. The boiler turns off in the afternoon, gas workers say the thermocouple is faulty during inspection. Didn't find a suitable one.You need a thermocouple Sit 200 L 300. Can someone help you with the purchase?

Answer: No, it might not be the problem. How long does the boiler work? Disconnect the wires that stand there, solder the wires to the terminals. Check how the pilot burner works. there is a possibility that the air intake hole is clogged, the nozzle is clogged and a small wick goes to the thermocouple (not enough). The adapter where the thermocouple is screwed must be tightened. In general, check the entire chain from the igniter to the gas valve. You most likely have oxidation of contacts.

Question: The AOGV-11.6-3 boiler does not turn on. The water temperature drops significantly, and the boiler does not turn on. turning the knob of the temperature regulator also did not help, what should I do?

Answer: I decided as follows. I had to open the regulator (a metal box under the button), sort out the device and squeeze the plate there. Everything worked. The box has a lid with 4 screws. With rubber gasket. Turn off the gas, unscrew 4 screws, pry off the cover and remove it. Be careful with the gasket, do not damage. And figure it out before you bend. Then everything is in place and check if it is poisoning from under the lid.

I had the following symptoms. This boiler regulates the temperature by the switch-on time. And now it turned on less and less, despite the “maximum” setting. Then he got up completely, but the wick burned regularly. Where I could, I cleaned it - it did not help. I had to open it. But I had no way out, it was -30 on the street, Sunday evening, you couldn’t call anyone, and there’s already a beater in the house. In your case, I would call the master.

Question: When trying to ignite, gas does not come in, it looks like a sticking valve. It looks like this: the tap on the burner is open, I press the gas supply button, and the gas does not hiss through the burner. Only after several presses and abrupt releases of the button, gas begins to flow, I close the valve and ignite the igniter. Need to change the valve?

I could not find the internal structure of the regulator, I don’t really want to call the next repairmen. What do you recommend to start with? Disassemble, inspect, clean? There was a thought after the gas valve on the burner to install a normally open valve to control the thermostat automation.

Answer: Do not experiment with an open tap on the burner when firing up. Someday it may end in an explosion. The valve on the burner must be closed during ignition. The gas pipeline is purged through a hose to the street, if purging is needed. No smoking and all that
fire prevention. When the rod is fully pressed, the protection against distraction works, the second valve closes the flow of gas to the burner, while the gas continues to flow to the igniter.

When released, the stem rises slightly, freeing the gas passage to the burner, on the other side the stem
restrained in the middle position by the core. That is, for the gas to pass to the burner, the middle position of the stem is needed. In the released state, the gas is completely shut off, in the extreme pressed state, it is supplied only to the igniter. In the middle position, gas flows to the igniter and the burner (if the valve is open).