Do-it-yourself gas boiler repair Beretta

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

There is a problem - the Beretta Ciao 24 CSI boiler was installed in September. Now the green light is flashing every 0.5 seconds.

The boiler starts up, the burners turn on, it works for 30 seconds, then the sound like water and air flows through the pipes or boils, and immediately turns off, waits for 3-5 minutes and all over again.

But about once an hour it starts up in normal mode for 10 minutes (all batteries heat up). And so the house is cold, the house is about 100 meters, one floor, two circuits are made.

There may be problems in the DHW flow sensor - spontaneous activation.

Tell me what could be with the Beretta Chao boiler? 5 years without maintenance, in summer mode, it is not clear why the pressure jumps from 1 bar to 3 and is drained.

The expansion tank does not work - there is no air, in 5 years it could bleed off - pump air up to 0.8 bar, but first drain all the water from the boiler, and during air pumping - so that the outlet for draining water from the boiler is open.

Question: Where is the room temperature sensor installed and how to use it?

It is installed at a distance of 3-5 meters from the radiator in the most important room (not in the kitchen - there the stove knocks down the thermal regime), at a height of 150 cm from the floor level.

The temperature is set on the sensor, upon reaching which the boiler switches to summer mode, when it falls from the set one (usually by 1 ° C), the boiler turns on again and heats the heating system.

The problem with the Beretta Ciao CSI 24 boiler - in heating mode, it starts 20 seconds, turns off (the light blinks once every 0.5 seconds), after 3 minutes it starts up again for the same 20 seconds.

It is true that it runs for 10-15 minutes (but this happens once an hour or two). There is a mode when it is guaranteed to start ("from the pusher"). I turn off the boiler, then turn on and turn on the hot water tap at the same time.

In this case, it works for 10-15 minutes, and all batteries heat up normally (the light in this case blinks once every 5 seconds). Can someone tell me the reason?

The indicator light is green.

Blinking once every 5 seconds - the boiler is in standby mode, there is no flame.

Blinking 1 time in 0.5 sec - temporary boiler shutdown for one of the following reasons, which can be eliminated independently without outside interference: the hydraulic pressure switch has worked (waiting time approximately 10 minutes); the flue gas pressure switch (Ciao N CSI) or the smoke exhaust thermostat (Ciao N CAI) has tripped (waiting time approx. 10 minutes); transitional stage of waiting for ignition.

At this stage, the boiler is awaiting the restoration of operating conditions. If, after the set time has elapsed, the boiler does not resume normal operation, it will stop completely and the indicator light will turn red.

Cauldron Beretta Chao, 1 month. Before connecting the external temperature sensor, it worked normally, now after being disconnected by the sensor, it does not start on its own.

The green and red indicator is on - the pressure in the system has disappeared, after pumping it starts. What is the reason?

First of all, you need to check the expansion tank for the presence of air (nitrogen). The second is to look for where the water from the heating system disappears.

Problem with the boiler Beretta ciao csi 24. Cold starts without problems. After reaching the set temperature, it turns off. Each subsequent attempt to start occurs 5-8 times.

Runs for 3-5 seconds.Then in the self-tuning mode it takes 5-10 minutes. If you add the temperature with the handle, it will start without problems. The boiler is brand new. What can be done?

Check the return filter and minimum gas pressure at the valve.

When the system heats up, water is discharged. When you set the hot water temperature sensor to the maximum and turn on the hot water, a crackle starts in the boiler and the pressure gauge needle jerks. What do you advise?

Check the expansion tank, and also flush the heat exchanger.

Good afternoon, can you tell me if it is possible to remove the temperature dip at the beginning of the DHW system operation and how is it done on a 24kW csi n beretta chao, a boiler a week after installation?

Install a storage electric boiler in the gap of the hot water pipe.

Boiler Beretta City 24. When the DHW is switched on, the temperature of the heating circuit rises, but the temperature of the DHW does not rise. The same situation is with the “Summer” position. The DHW flow is good. Where to look for the reason?

In a dirty DHW heat exchanger on the heating medium side.

Boiler Beretta CITY 24, service life 3 years, knocks (water shocks) occur in the heating heat exchanger when heated. Everything is washed, there is no scale. The three-way valve works (does not wedge), the valve drive works, the chimney is clean. How to be?

Perhaps you need to limit the maximum power of the boiler, well, the filter and the pump by itself can be seen.

I have the following problem. Boiler Beretta City 24. When you open the hot water tap (in the bathroom or in the kitchen), the turbine works, but the firebox does not start.

Sometimes, in heating mode, a similar thing happens (the pump drives water and there is no ignition of the furnace) and after that the red indicator lights up (the indicator is on, not blinking). Has anyone encountered such a problem?

The pressure switch does not work. You need to change.

Good afternoon, help with advice

Now: Errors are off. The boiler does not start. There is a constant noise coming from the boiler, not louder when the boiler is in ignition mode.
How it happened: The boiler was in heating + water mode, the water in the circuit suddenly disappeared. I added 1.5 bars (doesn't go away). Included but not working.

The problem with the Beretta SMART boiler - the boiler is 4 years old, Hungarian assembly. The boiler shuts down spontaneously at the moment the ignition command is given and is blocked (red LED is on). Once the boiler turned off at the very moment the spark was applied. The boiler can be started back only with the "OFF-RESET" regulator, that is, only manually. At the moment of switching on, an increasing “squeak” is heard - but it is also heard during normal boiler start-up, so this is most likely for information.
The burner and contacts of the igniter of the mixture were cleaned, and the contacts of the pressure switch were also cleaned. Both NTC sensors were replaced with new ones, later swapped.
After switching on, the boiler can work for a day, or maybe 10 minutes, when how. The chimney is clean, freezing is excluded, since the chimney itself is quite high. The power supply to the boiler is stabilized and phased.
The impression is that the moment when a spark is emitted on the electronics boards (or ignition, or control) is “lost”.

I really need help. Thank you.

If my profile is not completed, then I have already tried to fill it in 3 times, the changes are not remembered.

How to repair the Beretta gas water heater if it does not burn and does not heat up? In this article, we have collected the main causes of breakdowns, gave advice on how to eliminate them.

The Beretta company has been manufacturing heating equipment for 60 years. Flow-through heaters are an economical way to obtain hot water, but equipment breaks down with long-term operation.

Let's consider the main problems of the "Beretta" boiler, as well as ways to eliminate them without contacting a service center.

When the water heater is running, the igniter should be on continuously. If you stop holding the throttle control knob and the pilot does not ignite, this indicates a problem with the automation. The first thing to do is to shut off the water and gas supply.

A burner flame occurs when the pilot heats up the thermocouple. If it goes out, the protection system is triggered - the column is turned off. Otherwise, there is a risk of carbon monoxide entering the room. A similar problem can be provoked by such fuse parts:

• Thermocouple.
• Overheating sensor.
• Solenoid valve.

The protection is triggered when the equipment is rarely serviced. See if it's time to clean your igniter: blockages are common in dusty and damp environments. Which indicates the need for cleaning:

• The burner ignites with a strong pop.
• The flame is not blue, but red-tipped.
• The burner goes out constantly.

• Shut off the gas supply, remove the column cover.
• You will see the igniter, it may be clogged with soot.
• Unscrew the tube of the draft sensor and gas supply.
• Remove and clean the nozzle.
• Rinse the tee and other parts under running water.
• Assemble the igniter in reverse order.

Additionally, you can check the solenoid valve, but this requires a multimeter.

A thermocouple is an alloy of two types of metal, which serves to protect equipment from damage. The part opens and closes the gas supply to the burner. When a thermocouple heats up, its plates expand, producing an EMF (electromotive force). This force is sufficient to open the solenoid gas valve. When the heating stops, the product cools down, the feed is cut off.

You will need spare parts for self-repair. Please note that different models (for example, "Idrabagno 11") may differ.

• The thermocouple is located next to the igniter. Secured with a nut.
• Loosen the fastening of the bar that holds the part.
• Now unscrew the thermocouple nut counterclockwise.
• Unscrew the contact screw. It is located on the back of the adjustment knob.
• Disconnect the wiring.
• Install a new item.

The valve is a coil with a rod and a spring; it serves as a protection against gas ingress into the room. There is a seal around the coil to better cover all slots. In the normal state, the valve is closed when the equipment is turned off. When the circuit starts up and the membrane is triggered, the control module sends a signal to the valve to open - gas enters the burner.

Replacing the part is easy, just unscrew the four fastening screws with a screwdriver.

It works when the column overheats. Try to lower the room temperature by opening windows. To check the fuse, you need to close its contacts with each other. If the column turns on, it means that it is overheating. If not, the part is replaced.

If the equipment is bad or does not heat the water at all, you need to clean the radiator. The head can also be reduced because plaque constricts the passages in the coil tubes.

• Remove the cover of the product.
• Drain the radiator.
• Remove the mounting bolts.
• Immediately clean the assembly of dust with a brush. For descaling, use citric acid and hydrochloric acid.
• Run the hydrochloric acid solution through the coil with a pump or watering can.
• Dissolve citric acid in water, pour inside.
• After 30 minutes, rinse everything with water.

We wrote in more detail about the repair and cleaning of the heat exchanger in the previous article.

Leakage occurs due to corrosion. Manufacturers are trying to reduce the cost of production by adding impurities to the copper for the radiator. The walls become thin, they warm up unevenly. As a result, burnouts appear. An abundance of green spots on the surface indicates an imminent leak.

The accident can be eliminated by soldering. To do this, use a gas torch (for thick-walled radiators) or a soldering iron. You will also need solder and flux.

Cold weld or tin patch can be used. If nothing can be done to help, the heat exchanger is replaced.

When choosing a replacement part, make sure that the new radiator is not welded or repaired.

• Membrane problems. As we already wrote, the membrane triggers the gas supply valve. To do this, it must be whole and elastic.If the membrane is worn out, stretched, deformed and torn, the burner will go out or not ignite at all. Replace the rubber part with a silicone one, it will last longer.
• The batteries have run out in the technique with electronic ignition. The power supply is located at the bottom of the case. Open the cover and replace the batteries.
• Insufficient cold water pressure. Turn the adjustment knob to the right and down.
• Longer hold down the piezo ignition button. Check his contacts: maybe they moved away.
• The ignition electrode has shifted and is at a great distance from the wick. Adjust the position.
• Check if the gas cock is open. If not, then open it.
• No cravings. Test your guess by holding a lighted match to the window. If the flame burns steadily, contact your local utility company to clean the chimney.

These are typical malfunctions of Beretta gas water heaters. Other troubles occur depending on the situation. Take good care of your appliances to avoid these kinds of problems.

Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions. However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.

DIY gas boiler repair

Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.

Contents of step-by-step instructions:

First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.

Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity. And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.

A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.

To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.

At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.

The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.

Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.

Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.

Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences.For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that the unit will simply split at low temperatures.

If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.

Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to the appearance of many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system. As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.

You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.

Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper

A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system. The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.

Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.

On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.

Typical malfunctions of gas boilers

There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.

If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.

Gas boiler functionality diagram

Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.

If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.

Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.

Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.

It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.

You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.

Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta

According to the recommendations of the manufacturers, the heat exchangers must be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).

Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF

To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.

The problematic place of fans is their bearings.If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.

Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler

To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings. Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.

Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux

Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.

Gas boiler chimney diagram

Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.

Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.

The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This usually happens due to a malfunction of the combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.

Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler

Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.

No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention. Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.

Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.

Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.

Remember! A gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.

Now I will list the main malfunctions of the Beretta column and tell you how to repair each malfunction. So let's go.

The first stage in the repair of the Beretta gas water heater with your own hands should be to shut off all the taps suitable for the device, gas and water. The attenuation of the igniter can be in columns with an automated protective system. In working order, the igniter must be constantly on, since its main function is to ignite the main burner when hot water is turned on.

Ignition occurs as a result of combustion of the gas-air mixture. Ignition occurs when the pilot heats up the thermocouple, after which it flows to the main burner. If it goes out, the protective system is triggered and the flow of gas stops, in order to avoid its accumulation and prevent an accident.

The protective system of the device consists of the following elements: thermocouple, thermal fuse, solenoid valve. A malfunction of the automation can be judged if the igniter does not ignite after you have stopped holding the throttle control knob. To carry out a quality repair, you will need to understand the device in more detail.

A thermocouple is a device consisting of metals with different thermo-EMF coefficients.Welded or bonded together, they form a solder that has the ability to generate an EMF of 30 MV when heated. When the alloy is subjected to a change in temperature, the thermocouple at this time produces a voltage that is directly proportional to the magnitude of the changing temperature.

It rarely fails, however, breakdowns occur in the central conductor, this is due to the fact that it goes beyond the connection, a short to the case can occur when the insulation is broken, and the column turns off.

It cannot be repaired, if the contacts at the welding site are broken, soldering will not work. A complete replacement with a new unit is required.

It is a coil of copper wire, in the center of which there is an iron rod connected to a valve that controls gas supply to the burner.

When the required temperature is reached, a current is generated that creates a magnetic field, a rod is set in motion, which directly contributes to the opening of the valve. Next, gas is injected into the burner. The solenoid valve is responsible for the safe operation of the column.

If the wick is attenuated by a draft, if you open the hot water tap, gas will not flow into the apparatus and the wick will not ignite. To check if the valve is working, it is necessary to connect an ordinary aa battery to the wiring, when the wick is lit, it should light up, and if the battery is disconnected, the flame will go out. If you succeed, then everything is working properly, the problem is different.

It is a bimetallic plate, the function of which is to break the power contacts of the solenoid valve.

One of the characteristic signs of its malfunction is the following, if the room is well ventilated and the device goes out, you should check it first. If you turn on the hood and the window is closed, the device may overheat and the thermal fuse will turn off the gas to prevent an accident.

In order to check the serviceability of the device, disconnect the leads and connect them to each other, if your column turns on, then you managed to correctly establish the cause of the malfunction. And for the further operation of the column, purchase a new spare part (thermal fuse).

This is a common breakdown caused by water quality.

But everything can be fixed by having at hand not a complicated set of tools, namely, we need:

• soldering iron
• solder
• sandpaper (preferably fine grain)
• solvent (for surface degreasing)
• rosin (to protect the surface from oxidation).

Before proceeding with the repair, do not forget to shut off the gas and water valves suitable for the device. Most often, fistulas form on the front side of the device, in this case you do not need to disconnect it from the column. If it forms on the back of the speaker, you will need to remove the radiator.

The first stage of the repair - to drain all the water that is in the pipe, can be done by opening the hot water tap, then unscrew the pipe nut from the cold water at the inlet to the column, so the remaining water will flow out. If you do not do this, you will not be able to reach the required temperature of the solder, since some of the heat will be taken up by the water in the pipe.

Using a sheet of sandpaper, treat the leak, we advise you to carefully examine your radiator for the presence of small green inclusions, this is the first sign of the onset of a fistula, carry out the same repair steps with them so as not to return to it again after a while.

The next steps are to degrease the surface and remove dust and dirt particles, for this you need to take a piece of clean cloth, moisten it in solvent and process the required surface.You can solder with any solder that is at your fingertips, but if it is not available, you can easily purchase it on any radio market in Moscow.

Use a soldering iron with a soldering temperature of at least 170 degrees. Connect the soldering iron to the network and wait until it warms up, in the meantime, treat the surface with rosin, this is done so that oxidation does not occur on the pipe and ensure high-quality soldering. Then, using a soldering iron, melt the solder (tin) and apply it to the surface. To ensure a high-quality repair, the applied solder layer should be of the order of two or three centimeters.

This can be determined if the water in the column does not warm up enough, or there is a small water pressure at the outlet of the apparatus, although the pressure in the water line is strong enough. This breakdown is associated with the low quality of tap water, more precisely, with its hardness.

This problem leads to a significant increase in gas consumption for heating. Deposition can be reduced by lowering the preset heating temperature; when heated to more than 70 degrees, it occurs much faster. In order to repair your device, you can resort to store-bought means for removing plaque, which are expensive, and their frequent use is also not recommended, or use a solution with citric acid 100 grams of acid per half liter of water.

Cleaning can be done in two ways:

• With the help of a special apparatus. This is a tank with a pump mounted in it that drives the cleaning liquid inside the heat exchanger. It is connected to the radiator pipes at the inlet and outlet. Water circulates inside for an hour dissolving the formed plaque. However, not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such a device due to its high cost, there is a cheaper method.
• Drain the system, remove the radiator, prepare the tank one-third full of water. Submerge a radiator in it and fill it with a purchased or homemade reagent. Put on fire and simmer for half an hour, then turn off the heat and let stand for an hour. Flush the radiator, if the pressure has changed, then the plaque is gone, if it remains small, repeat the procedure again.

• The membrane has broken. Disassemble the water unit and replace it with a new one.
• The batteries are empty. Replace with new ones.
• Low cold water pressure. Set the pressure regulator to the extreme right position.
• There was a breakdown of the piezo ignition, the connecting contacts may have come off. Check their serviceability and replace if necessary.
• The distance between the ignition electrode and the wick of the ignition burner is too great. You will need to adjust and set the desired distance.

According to safety rules, the repair of all equipment dangerous in operation, which includes gas heating units, must be carried out by specially trained qualified specialists. However, in remote areas, the arrival of a specialized repair team can be expected for a very long time. Therefore, in case of emergency, if the matter does not concern automation and the gas pipe, you can do it yourself and repair the gas boiler yourself.

Modern gas heating systems are complex systems. Control of their work is carried out using a whole range of automatic devices, which must be familiarized with before starting an independent repair of gas boilers.

The main elements of the security group:

• Draft sensors designed for 75 0 C. This device makes it possible to monitor the state of the chimney. If the normal flue gas discharge fails, the temperature rises and the sensor is triggered. Optimally, in addition to the traction sensor, a gas alarm is acquired.
• The monostat protects turbocharged gas units from impaired removal of combustion products due to a clogged chimney or heat exchanger.
• The limit thermostat is designed to control the temperature of the heating medium in the heating system. When the water boils, the overheating sensor turns off the device.
• When the flame is detected, the flame control electrode switches off the operation of the heating unit.
• A blast valve is used to control pressure. With an increase in pressure above the critical value, a portioned discharge of excess coolant occurs.

Attention! The wear of the stuffing box leads to a constant flow of the coolant from the valve. The remedy is to replace the valve.