Do-it-yourself gas boiler repair zhytomyr

Warnings: 1

Posts: 370

Automation SIT 630. I tried it as expected, it works flawlessly.
The boiler worked for 5 seasons. For season 4, water began to appear on the floor. Moreover, as soon as the boiler reaches the desired temperature, it warms up, the flow stops. Now the boiler has completely scattered the water on the heat exchanger, no, it does not flow. But there are traces of condensation or leakage, I can't say for sure. I took a photo and am attaching it. The turbulators were in the trash. The heat exchanger itself is also rusty. I want to repair the boiler myself, I don’t trust our gas company, because after repairing the old AOGV, it exploded behind me and I almost died. I already wrote about this a couple of years ago.

The area of ​​the house is 58m sq. There is a pump on the system. But there is one trick. Even the pump does not push heat into distant rooms. That is, the latter are much cooler than the former. Could this be due to impaired circulation? I mean the formation of condensation during warming up.

And yet, all pipes and registers are welded from a 70mm pipe. But they did not have enough tubes for the last room, and they made the direct and return line half an inch. Maybe because of this, the circulation is disturbed? Although the other guys who installed the pump, convinced that it would push through. Heating had been brewed for a very long time, I was still 17 and I didn’t understand anything. I am confused by this half inch at the end of the forward flow and return flow.

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

We bought a gas boiler Atem Zhitomir-3 at the first start, there were no problems, since it was in April the day was turned off, when it was restarted, the fire went from all the cracks. They turned off, tried to start again, gas does not flow into the boiler.

If the fire went “from all the cracks”, then you have problems with traction. You need to watch the chimney. And the boiler did not turn on again due to the actuation of the draft sensor. To restart, you need to wait a few minutes for the traction sensor to cool down.

we have a gas boiler Zhitomir-3, ATEM-FRANK. The problem is this. Cold water is supplied to it, but hot water does not go at all! (as if it was hammered somewhere along the way), he is 4 years old. How to clean it and is it really possible to do it? really new to buy?

Most likely, the hot water supply circuit is clogged due to: scale, dirty water, etc. Call a specialist from the service center to flush the DHW circuit. To avoid such problems in the future, it is strongly recommended to carry out an annual boiler maintenance.

the old boiler had hot water when it was opened immediately (at any temperature). With this boiler, it is not clear how it works when hot water is running, when not (at different temperatures), if at 40 degrees, then it’s not realistic to wait for hot water at all, and if it does, then literally a couple of minutes. Explain how the water heater works here?

90% of boilers fading out, especially now, in severe frosts, is associated with the chimney. Modern boilers have an efficiency much higher than the previous ones, but for stable operation they also need to create the necessary conditions. First of all, this is the chimney! Most people change a boiler from an old one to a new one, but they never think about a chimney, and it also needs to be modernized.

The fact is that old boilers, such as AOGVK, had a very high exhaust temperature (half of the heat flew out into the street) and therefore any chimney warmed up without problems.Modern boilers give 90% of the heat to heat the house, and the “exhaust” temperature in the chimney is low enough and the chimney must be well insulated to create the necessary draft. Only under such conditions is it possible to ensure the stable operation of the boiler.

what to do if the boiler does not light up? I squeeze the control handle, then I press the pieza ignition button, hold it for 10 minutes and release it and it goes out!

There can be two reasons: Perhaps the igniter tube and the igniter itself are clogged. In this case, the boiler must be serviced. It is also possible to oxidize the terminals of the draft sensor. If so, you need to carefully disconnect the terminals and strip them of oxide.

Tonight it went out and that's it. When the main burner ignites, the igniter will automatically go out. Naturally, when the temperature rises, the main burner goes out. I fire it up in a new way, it goes out in the old way. I called the master, on his advice I cleaned the igniter tube and the nozzle on the ignition burner - it does not help.
Who knows what to do?

Check the chimney draft first. The draft sensor may be triggered. You can also check the inlet and outlet gas pressure.

the problem is this. I light up the pilot burner. after about 40 seconds I release. the burner is on. I put about 1 position or 1.5 positions. the main burner lights up then after 10 seconds it clicks and everything goes out. subsequent attempts end in the same way. 10 seconds burning click and fade. what to do, tell me?

Make sure that the main burner flame does not deflate the pilot flame during warm-up. The igniter exists not only for setting fire, but also for heating the thermocouple, which controls the entire valve group. You need to go very slowly to warm up.

In my boiler for about 20-30 minutes. Only after reaching 60 degrees will there be good traction and the problem will disappear. And one more important note. On the igniter there is a mesh through which air and gas are mixed. it MUST BE ABSOLUTELY CLEAN. The flame of the wick is blue when the net is clean. When dirty - YELLOW.

And the most important thing. Forget about the old slagged chimney. The best option for such a boiler is a coaxial chimney filled with basalt or glass wool. For myself, I made from 120mm stainless steel (inner pipe) and galvanized 200mm (outer pipe). The space between the pipes was filled with basalt.

Gas boiler wall-mounted double-circuit chimney Zhitomir-7 AGD-20-1 (2) -B (11BS) -D with LED indication on the front panel. The problem is that when you open the hot water tap, the boiler works as it should, the water heats up no more than 50C (two months ago it was possible to set
temperature up to boiling water, it works for about 5 minutes while you are typing a bathroom, and it turns off abruptly !!

At the same time, on the front panel of the LEDs that indicate the temperature, the 50C LED starts blinking, as I understand it, indicates an error. Opposite each temperature designation there are icons with malfunctions, I do not understand the symbols, there are no instructions from the boiler. Help, please, if anyone has instructions, discard, give a link, or at least advise on what. It helps to turn it off, wait 5-10 minutes, turn it on, and even then not always, since I spent an hour and a half. Boiler marking AGD-20-1 (2) -B (11BS) -D.

flashing of this LED indicates a draft sensor error. It is necessary to check the draft in the chimney, as well as the sensor itself. Perhaps you just need to clean the chimney.

the wick burns only when the button is held, I turn it by 1, it goes out, I cannot light the burner. what to do?

Most likely, the problem is the low gas pressure in your line. Look at the pilot light when lighting up - the flame should completely cover the thermocouple. If the thermocouple does not heat up, it will not give a command to open the main gas valve and, accordingly, when the button is released, the boiler will go out.It is necessary to call a service technician to set the pressure on the gas valve of the boiler.

the boiler attem zhytomyr-3 constantly goes out after a while. the master was cleaning. changed the thermocouple. tell me what could be?

if this was a thermocouple, the boiler would not start at all. With your symptoms - 95% that the thrust sensor is triggered. Check the chimney draft.

Recently I became the owner of an ATEM boiler for 12.5 kW, the EuroSit 630 automatic equipment is single-circuit and I have such a question. When the coolant (water) in the boiler reaches the set temperature, the burner goes out (the wick burns) and ignites when the colder coolant comes from the “return” and so on in a circle: it heats up and goes out, cools down and ignites. Should this be the case or should the boiler be on constantly? The batteries are heating normally. The circulation of the coolant is due to the operation of the pump.

Yes everything is correct. This is his mode of operation. When the set temperature is reached, the main burner turns off, and when the water temperature drops by about 5 degrees, the burner turns on again.

the Atem boiler works for 2 minutes, then it goes out together with the wick. And so 5-6 times, after that the burners went out completely, only one wick was left to burn, while it was impossible to extinguish it. I had to turn off the gas. tap What assumptions?

the boiler damping by 95% after 2 minutes of operation is due to errors in the chimney design, that is, the boiler draft sensor is triggered (no draft). On the second question - most likely foreign particles (debris) got into the gas valve. To avoid this, it is necessary to install a gas filter when installing the boiler, as well as maintain cleanliness around the boiler. This is detailed in the instruction manual.

Single-circuit boiler 20 kW - constant pops (almost explosions) when the automation is turned on. What can be done to smoothly ignite the burners?

Cotton happens due to excess gas in the firebox. Because of what it can be: unregulated outgoing gas pressure (or knocked down adjustments), or excessively excessive inlet pressure (more than 1860 Pa at a rate of 1300 Pa). Unfortunately, in recent years, more than 2400 Pa has been pumped into the network in autumn! At the same time, even the SIT valve, which has a built-in gas reducer, cannot cope with such differences!

The amount of supplied gas in the firebox increases by more than 25-30%! Therefore, pops may occur. To avoid this, it is necessary to reduce the outgoing gas pressure at the valve. BUT !: you need to remember that in winter in frosts, the gas pressure will drop to 1200Pa, or even lower. Therefore, it will again be necessary to raise the outgoing pressure control. In addition, you can slightly close the gas valve on the pipe while the boiler is operating (not completely, but by 13 - 12).

You need to turn off the tap carefully, smoothly, visually observing the combustion on the boiler furnace. With excessive gas pressure, the gas burns with yellowness, giving out a whistling noise. It is necessary to reduce the pressure to a value when the whistling disappears and the fire turns blue. Also, especially if you are connected to a pipe near a hydraulic fracturing (constant high pressure) - it is advisable to put a pressure reducer in front of the boiler.

I have a boiler Zhitomir 3 ks-g-010sn with automatic eurosit 630, the problem is that when the thermostat knob is released, the pilot burner goes out, I changed the thermocouple and the solenoid valve, it didn’t help, tell me, what else could be the reason?

The main reason for shutting down the boiler is the lack of traction, but if we talk about the technical part, the following is most likely here: 1. The thermocouple-valve cable connection is oxidized; 2. the thermocouple is incorrectly aligned with the pilot burner; 3. Pilot burner or tube clogged (dirt, spider?); Н 4. the automatic equipment (coil) is faulty. I would advise you to contact an authorized service center to determine the exact cause of the attenuation.

tell me why the chimney should be insulated ?? Why do the antediluvian AOGV work great, but ATEM goes out under the same conditions? Perhaps it is necessary to lower the sensitivity of the automation? I have a tin pipe on the roof, what should I wrap with glass wool now ??

The chimney must be insulated, because in modern boilers, high efficiency and gas savings are achieved due to the low temperature of the exhaust gases of 110-120 degrees, that is, all the heat is taken to the maximum for heating.This temperature is not enough to warm up an uninsulated or improperly designed chimney. In outdated models of boilers, the temperature in the chimney reaches 200 degrees and more and all the heat does not go to the heating system but to the street, but there may be some kind of chimney - it will still warm up due to the “frantic” gas consumption.

ATEM boilers with a capacity of 10-15 kW have been equipped with the ATEM start system since 2012 to facilitate starting the boiler with a cold chimney. The principle of operation of the system is as follows: pulling the handle towards you, the throttle valve opens, and the temperature approaches 200 degrees. After the chimney has warmed up, the handle must be pushed away from you, returning the boiler to normal mode with an exhaust gas temperature of 110 degrees and an efficiency of 92.

If it is not possible to connect a house or apartment to the central heating system, additional heating methods are used. Someone prefers radiators, but more attention is paid to gas boilers.

The ATEM brand has invested all its efforts in the development and production of a high-quality device for autonomous heating. For more than 27 years the company has been giving heat to its consumers in the form of Zhitomir gas boilers. Since the appearance of the first boiler, a huge rebranding has been made, the device has received changes from an internal base of spare parts to an external design. Today, the Zhytomyr boiler is a neat block of small dimensions with switching instructions that even a child can handle. The main quality inherent in boilers of this brand is the quality and reliability of the device. Product specifications have also changed with the advent of new technologies. Not only these components, but also many other facts allowed the ATEM brand to get the European Quality award.

But the company did not stop there either, the Zhytomyr boilers received the Golden Mark and Highest Test awards, proving to everyone that they occupy leading positions in the world market.

Today, the products represented by Zhytomyr boilers are the most modern and in demand. To understand why this particular brand received consumer recognition, it is necessary to consider the model range in more detail. Each individual equipment has a huge advantage over similar devices from other manufacturers. There are disadvantages in Zhytomyr boilers, as in any product, but the presence of advantages outweighs the importance, showing that the equipment has much more advantages.

Gas boilers "Zhitomir" have a number of advantages, due to which they are in high demand in the market.

• The heat exchanger of the device is steel. Thanks to this, the water receives the maximum heat, which is formed during the combustion of the gas.
• The burner design is thought out to the smallest detail. It is this feature that contributes to an increase in the performance of the device, and the level of emission of harmful impurities is minimal.
• The imported automation of each boiler allows you to achieve the most suitable characteristics.

• Convenience of device management. No extra buttons and switches.
• The design of the equipment is developed according to the latest fashion trends. The boiler does not take up much space, but in appearance it looks like a small bedside table that fits into any environment.
• Each individual model in the production process goes through several stages of international standard verification. And after completing all the tests, he receives a quality certificate.

A variety of settings in the Zhytomyr boiler system allows you to choose an optimal and comfortable state for yourself. Special sensors, which are also equipped with the system, monitor the safety of the device and uninterrupted operation.Considering all the above advantages, we can safely say that Zhytomyr boilers are ideal for heating private houses, they will do their job well in an apartment and in other rooms. It should be noted that not only the beautiful design and ease of use attracts consumers, but also the price issue.

The cost of the Zhytomyr boiler meets the “price - quality” criterion, and this quality will not hit the pocket.

To date, several types are involved in the production of Zhytomyr boilers - parapet (wall) and floor. In turn, floor products also have subdivisions for single-circuit and double-circuit.

If a gas boiler is needed only for heating purposes, attention should be paid to single-circuit models. They are unpretentious, practical and economical. Equipping a single-circuit boiler "Zhitomir" primarily implies imported components. Thanks to them, the device can be turned on and, if necessary, turned off. And if there is a need, in addition to heating, to have hot water directly available, you will need to choose from two-circuit options.

In terms of price demand, double-circuit boilers are slightly more expensive, but they also provide double pleasure to the consumer in their work.

In terms of their technical characteristics, floor standing boilers mostly have such similarities as:

• the maximum temperature limit is +90 degrees;
• efficiency is 92%;
• gas pressure - 635 Pa.

But already when choosing a model you definitely like, you need to consider its specific characteristics and capabilities.

The same division as for floor-standing boilers is also present in wall-mounted boilers. They can also be single-circuit and double-circuit. The efficiency is the same for all devices. The same goes for gas pressure.

But still it is worth considering their characteristics in more detail:

• the power of parapet boilers must be at least 5 kW and no more than 20 kW;
• the coolant in the device is no more than 17.5 liters;
• depending on the chosen model, the consumption of natural gas is considered; according to the standard - 0.56-1.67 cubic meters per hour;
• profitability due to imported automation.

For its part, the manufacturer provides a wide range of boilers to choose from, but still the model "Zhitomir-3 KS-G-020 SN" is in great demand. This device differs from its counterparts not only in terms of affordability in terms of the price factor, but also has clear technical data. The design of the device is designed in a minimalist style; the boiler looks like a cabinet. It should only be placed on the floor. On the front of the model there is a small door, behind which is a button for turning on and adjusting the settings of the device. In the same part there is a control window, with the help of which it is necessary to monitor the performance indicators of the boiler.

The basic configuration includes a housing, which also includes heat exchanger elements. Outside, it is covered with thermal insulation material and a casing made of steel. The burners are presented in the amount of two pieces: one is the main one, and the second is the pilot one. The package includes a gas duct and an automatic gas valve, which is responsible for safety during operation.

If the temperature becomes more than +95 degrees, the shutdown sensor breaks the circuit to the valve, and the valve itself automatically shuts off the gas supply.

Before using the Zhitomir equipment, it is necessary to carry out a high-quality installation of the product, check the pipes, especially if the boiler is double-circuit. Next, the first launch is performed. And then the boiler enters the standard operation process. According to the standard scheme, it is necessary to turn on the device, the wick is ignited, then the heat supply is adjusted. After these manipulations, you can change the settings with a decrease in heating or, conversely, with an increase.

At the end of the cold season, the boiler must be turned off for a warm period., since it is not necessary, which will eliminate unnecessary waste of the device's potential. In some cases, after a warm period during connection, it is not possible to ignite the boiler, the igniter goes out. This may be due to a weakening of thrust, weak gas pressure, or a malfunction of the valve responsible for the gas supply.

To correct equipment errors and put the system in order, it is necessary to insulate the chimney, check the gas pressure and replace the gas valve.

Very rarely, during use, it is not possible to start the gas valve. This may be due to poor contacts, poor quality pilot burner, or improperly positioned thermocouple. Troubleshooting is simple - you need to check the contacts. Pay attention to the height of the flame. It should be at least 2.5 cm. You can try to reinstall the thermocouple or replace it altogether. Then check and fire up the boiler the first time.

As for the model range of Zhytomyr boilers, in general, you can hear only positive reviews. Perfect heating and the ability to regulate the temperature regime makes you feel comfortable throughout all cold weather. Quite a simple mechanism for turning on and setting - just a few knobs and pointers that tell you what needs to be done.

Another special quality that is mentioned in all reviews is the safety of the boilers. If the gas is suddenly turned off or the burner goes out, the magnetic block of the gas valve device closes the supply.

The gas boiler must be cleaned during operation. This allows you to keep its productivity at an extremely high level, to normalize the level of efficiency. How is the Zhytomyr boiler cleaning and is it possible to do it yourself?

How often should you clean?

To say that cleaning should be done once a year or twice is not entirely correct. Experts say that it must be carried out without fail before the heating season. If the boiler is in operation for a whole year, then such manipulations are recommended to be done as needed, but at least once a year.

Among these indicators are:

• significant decrease in temperature indicators in the room during normal stable operation of the boiler;
• the heating device constantly goes out;
• significant increase in gas and electricity consumption;
• the appearance of an extraneous smell of combustion in the room where the heater is located.

It is these negative moments that indicate that the boiler is clogged and must be cleaned of soot and scale. Do not rely on automation, which is now equipped with almost all heating devices. It does not work if the boiler channels are clogged. Its emergency stop is designed only in case of contamination of the chimney.

Before submitting information about the processes of cleaning the boiler, we note that all work should be performed only by specialists who have permission to do so. Therefore, the information below on cleaning the heater is provided for informational purposes only. Also, an understanding of all the processes of removing blockages will help you control the work and quality of the cleaning performed by the master.

Boiler cleaning step-by-step

Each boiler has its own design. But without fail, its two main elements are cleaned: the burner and the heat exchanger.

Let's consider the process of eliminating blockages in boilers using the example of the Zhitomir 3 heating gas unit with the EURO SIT system. To perform all the procedures, the wizard will need a set of tools:

• flat head screwdriver;
• keys (open-end);
• two types of brushes (simple and for metal);
• brush.

Boiler cleaning Zhitomir, like any other gas unit, it starts by shutting off the gas supply. Using a wrench, the screw that secures the door of the heater is dismantled. It is completely removable, which provides full access to the core of the device.

The process of removing the main burner and cleaning it

The main burner is located at the bottom of the boiler. In order to remove it and clean it, you must perform the following steps:

1. We disconnect the wire, which ensures the operation of the piezoelectric element and electric ignition.
2. Using a wrench, disconnect the thermocouple clamp and itself from the valve.
3. Mark with a marker the distance of the nozzle recess into the burner. This will allow you to later install it in the same position and not change the initial settings of the heater.
4. Unscrew the nut that connects the tube (copper) from the valve to the burner. We perform the same actions with the ignition electrode.
5. Using a screwdriver, remove the two pilot burner fixing nuts.

Next, the nozzle is removed from the burner. Sometimes it doesn't work the first time. You can tap lightly around it with an adjustable wrench to remove it more easily.

In order to dismantle the main burner, it is necessary to loosen the fixing screw that connects this element to the body of the heater. Next, grasp the copper tube and the bottom of the burner and pull it out of the valve with a sharp downward movement. This allows the main heating element to be completely emptied from the boiler. And now you can extract it.

In the main burner, which is now completely accessible for cleaning, loosen the screw. It fixes the range of entry of the nozzle element.

How do I clean the burner? To remove dirt, you will need to use a brush and a brush. After removing carbon deposits, the holes are cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. All processes are carried out outside and inside.

It is also necessary to clean the nozzles. From above, the carbon deposits are removed with a brush, and the holes are cleaned with a wire or a needle with a diameter not exceeding the original. Even a small increase in their size can change the operation of the heater.

Heat exchanger cleaning process

Boiler cleaning Zhytomyr also requires the removal of scale and dust from the heat exchanger elements. To begin with, a thermometer is removed from the boiler. Using a wrench, the nuts securing the device cover are removed. There is an insulating material underneath, which can also be removed.

Release the fastening of the flue to the heater body, the terminals from the draft sensor. The flue is completely removed.

The heat exchanger swirlers are located under it. They are easy to remove. They must be cleaned with a soft brush or, if necessary, with a metal brush.

The elements of the heat exchanger are cleaned in the same way. With the help of a brush, its channels are cleaned to the full depth. Garbage is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Further, all boiler elements are assembled in the reverse order. Before attaching the pilot burner, it is important to also clean it with a brush.

After the completion of all work on the installation of the boiler elements, it is started up.

Now you know how to clean the Zhitomir gas boiler. Remember to keep an eye on the chimney as well. Although gas is a fairly clean fuel, soot can accumulate in the chimney during operation. Clogged chimneys are also a common cause of poor heater performance, as there is no draft. This is the main reason that the boiler goes out. From time to time it is necessary to clean the chimney from soot and accumulated debris.

After cleaning, the operation of the boiler is normalized, the efficiency increases, and the consumption of gas and electricity decreases.

Cleaning the gas boiler allows you to use it as efficiently as possible throughout its entire service life. The article describes step by step the cleaning process before the start of the heating season using the example of a floor-standing chimney boiler "Zhitomir-3" with Eurosit-630 automatic equipment.

Cleaning the domestic gas boiler before the start of the heating season must be carried out without fail. For boilers operating all year round, this procedure is carried out at least once a year. Gas combustion in equipment with partially clogged flue gas ducts occurs in the wrong mode, which only aggravates the situation, further clogging the boiler with soot. The result is carbon monoxide poisoning of residents. By the way, draft automation is capable of working only if the chimney is clogged, but not if the boiler channels are clogged. Therefore, you should not rely solely on automation and neglect cleaning.

It is important to know that gas hazardous work should be carried out exclusively by representatives of specialized organizations that have the appropriate permits. This work is provided for informational purposes only, however, it will allow the owner of the gas boiler to control the quality of the work performed by the gas service.

To carry out work on cleaning the gas boiler, you will need the following set of tools:

• open-end wrenches No. 8, 9, 10, 13 and 17;
• flat-head screwdriver;
• brush;
• metal brush;
• brush.

We turn off the gas supply valve to the boiler. Using the key No. 10, unscrew the fastening screw under the boiler door and remove the door.

Disconnect the wire connecting the piezoelectric element and the ignition electrode.

Unscrew the thermocouple clamp with the key # 10. Unscrew the thermocouple from the valve with the key No. 9.

Note: it is necessary to ensure that the thermocouple does not rotate during unscrewing.

We mark the depth of entry of the nozzle into the main burner so as not to disturb the boiler setting.

Using the No. 17 wrench, unscrew the nut securing the copper tube from the burner to the valve. Using the key # 10, unscrew the ignition electrode from the pilot burner and the copper tube from the pilot burner and valve. Using a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the pilot burner.

The gasket installed under the pilot burner has deteriorated. It will need to be replaced.

We remove the nozzle from the pilot burner.

Tip: If the nozzle is stuck, you can lightly tap the burner with a wrench.

Unscrew the four screws securing the main burner to the boiler body and the screw that secures the body in order to be able to remove the main burner.

Lowering the main burner down, remove the copper tube from the valve.

We remove the main burner.

We take out the thermometer sleeve from the boiler body.

Using the key No. 10, unscrew the four screws securing the upper boiler cover and remove it and the insulation sheet under it.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the gas duct to the boiler body.

We remove the terminals from the draft sensor.

We remove the swirlers from the boiler heat exchanger. We clean them with a brush. If necessary, use a metal brush.

We clean the outside of the heat exchanger with a metal brush. We clean the channels of the heat exchanger with a brush to the full depth. We clean the lower part of the heat exchanger with a brush. We also clean the gap between the boiler drum and the floor. We clean the exfoliated debris with a vacuum cleaner.

Using the No. 13 wrench, loosen the screw that fixes the depth of entry of the nozzle into the main burner and remove it.

We clean the burner with a brush and a brush, clean its holes with a vacuum cleaner. We clean the flue from dust outside and inside.

We clean the outer surface of the nozzle with a brush, then clean the nozzle holes with a needle or wire.

Note: the needle must be of a smaller diameter than the diameter of the nozzle orifice. Even a slight increase in the diameter of the nozzle orifice can affect the combustion mode.

We install the main burner in place.

We install the copper pipe with the nozzle and screw its nut onto the gas valve.

Only after that we fix the nozzle on the burner at the mark with the key No. 13.

Note: this sequence is necessary in order not to strip the threads in the valve body.

Finally, we clamp the nut of the copper tube with a wrench No. 17.

We clean the pilot burner with a metal brush.

This is how the thermocouple must be installed in the pilot burner (tip of the thermocouple against the flame tongue).

Install the pilot burner on a new gasket.

Before installing the nozzle in the pilot burner, it must be rubbed a little against the tip of the copper tube for a better seal. The nozzle should also be cleaned or blown out.

Connect the copper tube to the pilot burner and to the valve with a # 10 wrench.

The rest of the boiler parts are assembled upside-down. When connecting, the ignition electrode should not be clamped with a key; it is enough to do it by hand, since it is made of ceramic and can easily crack.

We carry out control soaping of all compounds. It is possible to check the tightness of the connection of copper pipes to the main and pilot burners only when the boiler is turned on.

This boiler is cleaned regularly every year before the heating season. No critical contamination was found during cleaning, but it can be seen that dirt accumulates throughout the year. The need for such a procedure is obvious. After cleaning, the boiler ignites easily, it picks up temperature well.

P.S. The photographs of the boiler show traces of burnt paint in the area of ​​the viewing window. This is a clear sign of insufficient draft or contamination of the boiler channels. In this case, the problem has long been eliminated, but traces, unfortunately, remain.

Warnings: 1

Posts: 370

Automation SIT 630. I tried it as expected, it works flawlessly.
The boiler worked for 5 seasons. For season 4, water began to appear on the floor. Moreover, as soon as the boiler reaches the desired temperature, it warms up, the flow stops. Now the boiler has completely scattered the water on the heat exchanger, no, it does not flow. But there are traces of condensation or leakage, I can't say for sure. I took a photo and am attaching it. The turbulators were in the trash. The heat exchanger itself is also rusty. I want to repair the boiler myself, I don’t trust our gas company, because after repairing the old AOGV, it exploded behind me and I almost died. I already wrote about this a couple of years ago.

The area of ​​the house is 58m sq. There is a pump on the system. But there is one trick. Even the pump does not push heat into distant rooms. That is, the latter are much cooler than the former. Could this be due to impaired circulation? I mean the formation of condensation during warming up.

And yet, all pipes and registers are welded from a 70mm pipe. But they did not have enough tubes for the last room, and they made the direct and return line half an inch. Maybe because of this, the circulation is disturbed? Although the other guys who installed the pump, convinced that it would push through. Heating had been brewed for a very long time, I was still 17 and I didn’t understand anything. I am confused by this half inch at the end of the forward flow and return flow.

If your boiler Zhytomyr has broken down, then we recommend buy a new gas boiler Zhitomir with reinforced control board, improved model without flaws (no need to repair), or choose another Wall mounted gas boiler.

Consultation by phone: 8029-123-9999

I have a boiler Zhitomir 3 ks-g-010sn with automatic eurosit 630, the problem is that when the thermostat knob is released, the pilot burner goes out, I changed the thermocouple and the solenoid valve, it did not help, tell me, what other reason could there be?

The main reason for shutting down the boiler is the lack of traction, but if we talk about the technical part, the following is most likely here: 1. The thermocouple-valve cable connection is oxidized; 2. the thermocouple is incorrectly aligned with the pilot burner; 3. Pilot burner or tube clogged (dirt, spider?); Н 4. the automatic equipment (coil) is faulty. I would advise you to contact an authorized service center to determine the exact cause of the attenuation.

the Atem boiler works for 2 minutes, then it goes out together with the wick. And so 5-6 times, after that the burners went out completely, only one wick was left to burn, while it was impossible to extinguish it. I had to turn off the gas. tap What assumptions? Answer

the boiler damping by 95% after 2 minutes of operation is due to errors in the chimney design, that is, the boiler draft sensor is triggered (no draft). On the second question - most likely foreign particles (debris) got into the gas valve. To avoid this, it is necessary to install a gas filter when installing the boiler, as well as maintain cleanliness around the boiler. This is detailed in the instruction manual.

Recently I became the owner of an ATEM boiler for 12.5 kW, the EuroSit 630 automatic equipment is single-circuit and I have such a question. When the coolant (water) in the boiler reaches the set temperature, the burner goes out (the wick burns) and ignites when the colder coolant comes from the “return” and so on in a circle: it heats up and goes out, cools down and ignites. Should this be the case or should the boiler be on constantly? The batteries are heating normally. The circulation of the coolant is due to the operation of the pump. Answer

Yes everything is correct. This is his mode of operation. When the set temperature is reached, the main burner turns off, and when the water temperature drops by about 5 degrees, the burner turns on again.

the boiler attem zhytomyr-3 constantly goes out after a while. the master was cleaning. changed the thermocouple. tell me what could be?

if this was a thermocouple, the boiler would not start at all. With your symptoms - 95% that the thrust sensor is triggered. Check the chimney draft.

the problem is this. I light up the pilot burner. after about 40 seconds I release. the burner is on. I put about 1 position or 1.5 positions. the main burner lights up then after 10 seconds it clicks and everything goes out. subsequent attempts end in the same way. 10 seconds burning click and fade. what to do, tell me? Answer

Make sure that the main burner flame does not deflate the pilot flame during warm-up. The igniter exists not only for setting fire, but also for heating the thermocouple, which controls the entire valve group. You need to go very slowly to warm up. In my boiler for about 20-30 minutes. Only after reaching 60 degrees will there be good traction and the problem will disappear. And one more important note. On the igniter there is a mesh through which air and gas are mixed. it MUST BE ABSOLUTELY CLEAN. The flame of the wick is blue when the net is clean. When dirty - YELLOW.

Single-circuit boiler 20 kW - constant pops (almost explosions) when the automation is turned on. What can be done to smoothly ignite the burners? Answer

Cotton happens due to excess gas in the firebox. Because of what it can be: unregulated outgoing gas pressure (or knocked down adjustments), or excessively excessive inlet pressure (more than 1860 Pa at a rate of 1300 Pa). Unfortunately, in recent years, more than 2400 Pa has been pumped into the network in autumn! At the same time, even the SIT valve, which has a built-in gas reducer, cannot cope with such differences! The amount of supplied gas in the firebox increases by more than 25-30%! Therefore, pops may occur. To avoid this, it is necessary to reduce the outgoing gas pressure at the valve. BUT !: you need to remember that in winter in frosts, the gas pressure will drop to 1200Pa, or even lower. Therefore, it will again be necessary to raise the outgoing pressure control. In addition, you can slightly close the gas valve on the pipe while the boiler is operating (not completely, but by 13 - 12).

Tonight it went out and that's it. When the main burner ignites, the igniter will automatically go out. Naturally, when the temperature rises, the main burner goes out. I fire it up in a new way, it goes out in the old way. I called the master, on his advice I cleaned the igniter tube and the nozzle on the ignition burner - it does not help. Who knows what to do? Answer

Check the chimney draft first. The draft sensor may be triggered. You can also check the inlet and outlet gas pressure.

what to do if the boiler does not light up? I squeeze the control handle, then I press the pieza ignition button, hold it for 10 minutes and release it and it goes out! Answer

There can be two reasons: Perhaps the igniter tube and the igniter itself are clogged. In this case, the boiler must be serviced. It is also possible to oxidize the terminals of the draft sensor. If so, you need to carefully disconnect the terminals and strip them of oxide.

the old boiler had hot water when it was opened immediately (at any temperature). With this boiler, it is not clear how it works when hot water is running, when not (at different temperatures), if at 40 degrees, then it’s not realistic to wait for hot water at all, and if it does, then literally a couple of minutes. Explain how the water heater works here? Answer

90% of boilers fading out, especially now, in severe frosts, is associated with the chimney. Modern boilers have an efficiency much higher than the previous ones, but for stable operation they also need to create the necessary conditions. First of all, this is the chimney! Most people change a boiler from an old one to a new one, but they never think about a chimney, and it also needs to be modernized. The fact is that old boilers, such as AOGVK, had a very high exhaust temperature (half of the heat flew out into the street) and therefore any chimney warmed up without problems. Modern boilers give 90% of the heat to heat the house, and the “exhaust” temperature in the chimney is low enough and the chimney must be well insulated to create the necessary draft. Only under such conditions is it possible to ensure the stable operation of the boiler.

we have a gas boiler Zhitomir-3, ATEM. The problem is this. Cold water is supplied to it, but hot water does not go at all! (as if it was hammered somewhere along the way), he is 4 years old. How to clean it and is it really possible to do it? really new to buy? Answer

Most likely, the hot water supply circuit is clogged due to: scale, dirty water, etc. Call a specialist from the service center to flush the DHW circuit. To avoid such problems in the future, it is strongly recommended to carry out an annual boiler maintenance.

We bought a gas boiler Atem Zhitomir-3 at the first start, there were no problems, since it was in April the day was turned off, when it was restarted, the fire went from all the cracks. They turned off, tried to start again, gas does not flow into the boiler. Answer

If the fire went “from all the cracks”, then you have problems with traction. You need to watch the chimney. And the boiler did not turn on again due to the actuation of the draft sensor. To restart, you need to wait a few minutes for the traction sensor to cool down.

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