DIY camper gas heater repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a gas heater for campers from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

registered by the decision of the board of the Ministry of Justice of the Republic of Belarus dated 01.08.2014 No. 170

lotus »21 Nov 2013, 20:06

Friends, I propose to discuss the burning topic of heating a motorhome in winter. How to prepare, for example, for a trip to Lapland for Santa Claus in the New Year, and even with the whole family, with children! There at this time it can be quite minus 35-40 С!

It's no secret that the standard Trumas at minus 20 and below may well not start due to freezing of the gas. What options? Webasto? Not a bad option. Only according to the experience of comrades, it can be cut out in the middle of the night (like the gas Trum) when the cabin battery “sits down”.

Heating of cylinders. Not bad either, but the gas may run out. ...

Electricity is possible, but you need to connect to a 220 Volt network, and at least 10 Amperes. Which is not always possible. ...

You can also install an additional standard heater for the passenger compartment from Fiat Ducato.

It comes to mind that all this (or part) needs to be combined. Then it will be dry and comfortable.

What do you think, friends of the caravaners? Share your experience!

nikk »21 Nov 2013, 20:41

Topic - do not grind

For myself, I decided so.
warm floor
breeze-type heater (in stock)
construction hair dryer in the trunk.

As for my motorhome (Yaroslav you have the same thing) - we have gas pipes running down the street, if you heat up the cylinders, believe me, the gas will freeze in the tube - this has already been verified.

The conclusion on gas is that for the winter it is necessary to refuel with automobile gas. And if you go to Finka to buy a cylinder from them (for some reason, their gas does not freeze)
when leaving the country, you can create a balloon from them and get the loot back

Video (click to play).

Sanya Milko »22 Nov 2013, 02:06

+37529 617 34 71 Call when you need help or when you want to share your joy!

Sanya Milko »22 Nov 2013, 02:17

+37529 617 34 71 Call when you need help or when you want to share your joy!

nikk »22 Nov 2013, 07:54

old_piligrim »22 Nov 2013, 13:02

lotus »25 Nov 2013, 14:25

Really interesting. Guys, answer me, who used it?

lotus »25 Nov 2013, 14:36

The tractor will help. But my question was originally how to heat the living room of the camper. Or a caravan. If you can turn on the engine in a camper and, as a last resort, warm yourself up with a standard car stove, then what about in a caravan? I once warmed up a gas cylinder with a heating cape on the seats. Can be easily ordered online. Minus - with a current of 4 amperes, the caravan's battery will quickly "land" if there is no 220 Volt network. Plus - the gas from a warm cylinder does not have time to freeze in the gas pipeline under the bottom (on the street) and Trum heats like a beast.

And there is one more magic wand (our friend Stepan somehow helped me out with it) - a heat gun. If the gas pipelines are still frozen, then fire the cannon, direct it under the bottom at a distance of at least a meter, since there is an open fire (!) And everything will be warmed up in a couple of minutes. IMPORTANT: Please read the enclosed user manual carefully before firing the cannon.

Tolyanich & C 26 Dec 2013, 22:32

Sanya Milko "26 Dec 2013, 23:34

+37529 617 34 71 Call when you need help or when you want to share your joy!

Users browsing this forum: no registered users and 0 guests

So I finished repairing the house, I sit in it and write in the BZ.
I got the camper in a deplorable state, the frame was cracked and boiled overcooked in several places, I restored almost everything with my own hands except for the chassis and the frame. Ivan Galkin did the frame and the chassis for me well, now the house is on a new frame and in the place of a rigid torsion bar on which the whole house can be broken on our roads (and it was so), the house was put on springs with shock absorbers and stabilizers., It goes softly without rolls.

Nissan Elgrand 2000, petrol engine 3.3 l., 170 hp sec., four-wheel drive, automatic transmission - DIY repair

Yeah. The condition is really deplorable. Patience for you when recovering. Do not forget to brag later.)))

so restored already, about this and the record)

Why did you throw out the gas heater?

Yes, I didn’t want to mess with him, he was all overwhelmed. I'll go to the salary because I'm not the only one on the planar to warm up and the salary is free from the organization, and with gas there are problems with refueling

I’m thinking about how to warm up ... on board the trailer I have a 40-liter gas cylinder ... a gas-powered tractor too ...
Planar is an option, of course, but I'm thinking about gas ... and everything was fatally broken there, or was it just too lazy to figure it out?
I can refuel my cylinder at any gas station, where the refueling will be like a car

I have such a job that I have to live in a camper at -30 or even -40 in winter, we have only 3 camper in the place with mine and everything on the planar, 3 trucks with animals that cannot stand frost, such as monkeys of different species, in general, a circus the zoo and gas have already passed, it either freezes or I do not know what is going on there, but the heating system does not start in frost, therefore, we switched to Planar; it is more adapted to harsh weather

If in the warm season, then gas is a good thing, but in winter there can be problems, we have large and frequent crossings, a tank of 100 liters of water and do not want to constantly fill and drain, and in winter it freezes on the move, then the planar saves it, launched it on the road and go, you come and you are warm and the water is not frozen)

Truma gas heaters installed on campers, trailers, motorhomes and caravan trailers are reliable enough and do not underestimate the concept of “German quality”. But when buying a trailer from the early 90s, be prepared for the fact that there may be problems with the correct operation of the stove.

Using the Truma 3002 gas oven as an example, we will analyze its main components, the principle of operation and possible malfunctions.

There are several basic devices in the stove

1. Ignition unit. Powered by two AA batteries. With the help of such a block, the gas burner is auto-ignited. It is very convenient to use such ignition in windy weather, when when the flame is blown out by a strong gust of wind, for a few seconds, until the gas closes the safety valve, the electric ignition can automatically reignite the flame.
Sometimes the PCB of the unit burns out. In this case, it is necessary to replace the entire block. You can buy this part at the Retrailer store. By the way, the electronic ignition unit can easily replace a conventional mechanical piezo candle.

2. Truma gas burner. It has two combustion chambers, an ignition (round) and a main (oval) one. There is a piezo candle above the ignition chamber, next to it there is a thermal probe.

The core temperature probe is used to turn off the safety valve that closes the main gas line in the event that the burner flame has gone out.

3. Gas cock valve. The faucet valve is the main, most important and most complex part in a Truma heating system. The valve has an entrance from the bottom to receive gas from the main line, two outlets from the side with nozzles for supplying gas to the ignition and main combustion chambers, a knob for regulating the intensity of gas supply to the burner, a safety thermostat against overheating, a safety thermostat for shutting off the gas line, in the absence of a flame.

4. Heat exchanger. Or, more simply, a radiator made of aluminum alloy. The exhaust system is suitable for the radiator. A decorative metal cover is put on the radiator from the outside.

How the Truma gas stove works

1. When you turn the knob from 0 to 1 division, the electrical circuit is closed and the electronic ignition unit starts supplying periodic charges to the piezo candle, which in turn breaks the spark onto the burner body next to the ignition chamber.
2. Turning the regulator knob from 1 to 3 divisions opens the primary valve for supplying gas to the tap from the external line.
3.When the regulator is pushed down, the protective thermal valve is forcibly opened and the gas enters the ignition (primary) combustion chamber, after which ignition occurs. 3-4 seconds after ignition of the ignition chamber, the temperature probe heats up to the required temperature, which allows the safety thermal valve to take an open position, providing a continuous flow of gas into the burner. After that, the regulator knob is released and returns to its original upper state under the action of the spring. The flame does not go out.
4. As the regulator knob is turned further from 3 to 10, the gas supply valve to the main (oval) combustion chamber gradually opens.
5. After the ignition of the main combustion chamber, as the stove heats up, the heating intensity (and, accordingly, the temperature) can be adjusted with the knob in the range of divisions from 1 to 10.

When the heating temperature of the radiator reaches more than 50 degrees Celsius, the protective thermostat against overheating begins to gradually reduce the gas supply to the main combustion chamber until it is completely turned off.

Frequent problems

1. Only the ignition chamber is ignited. When the regulator is released upwards, the flame is extinguished.
Cause. Most likely the core temperature probe is out of order,

opening protective thermal valve.

You can buy this part at the Retrailer store.

2. Only the ignition chamber is ignited. When the regulator is released upward, the flame does not extinguish. When the regulator knob is twisted all the way, the main chamber does not ignite.
Cause. Most likely there is a blockage in the gas valve. Disassembly and cleaning required.

3. The flame burns in both chambers, but is very unstable with noise.
Cause. A thin refractory metal mesh is soldered on top of each of the chambers. It serves to distribute the flame evenly over the entire surface of the burner. As a result of corrosion, the soldering could peel off, and the metal mesh could fall off. Burner replacement required. You can purchase this part in the Retrailer store

Phased disassembly of the gas valve-valve

1. In a motorhome or caravan. Disconnect the tap from the main gas line at the bottom of the trailer. Remove the burner safety cover, unscrew the nozzles of the ignition and main combustion chambers, unscrew the temperature probe from the tap, and then disconnect the burner from the tap. The crane is removed from the inside of the cottage trailer, upward.

2. Take out the regulator handle from the tap, unscrew the top plastic cover (2 bolts and an iron latch).

3. Take out the electric piezo ignition switch, take out the plastic sleeve-switch of the primary gas supply valve.

4. Unscrew the plastic base from the metal valve cover (2 bolts). We take out the thermostat for overheating protection and the spline cap.

5. Remove the metal valve cover. We take out the primary gas supply valve. The photo shows dirt and bronze oxide on the edge of the main combustion chamber valve. All this needs to be cleaned up. Ideally, when removing the metal cover from the valve body, the valve of the main combustion chamber should “shoot” forward under the action of a spring. In the picture, this does not happen due to the bronze oxide.

6. After cleaning the valve wall of the main combustion chamber, remove the valve. It is necessary to completely clean and rinse the body of the valve-valve in gasoline (kerosene), blow out all channels, clean all valves from contamination. Assemble the valve in the reverse order.

The valve-valve from the Truma 5002 stove and its modifications is completely similar. The only difference is the twin gas injectors.

Retrailer uses special Multitec foaming agent from Danish manufacturer Unipak to test the sealing of gas line connections in trailers and RVs. Multitec detects even small leaks, determined by the “boiling” of the composition in places where the connection is not tight.

After looking at the profile sites, I found several solutions. But none of them suited me. Offered or insanely expensive heaters Webasto, Planar and the like. from 30,000.Or Chinese counterparts from 25,000. All this was powered by diesel or gasoline fuel. And mercilessly sucked out the battery. Required stationary installation and expensive maintenance. For branded motorhomes this may be good, but considering the cost of my camper (50,000), the price of the heater is too high. There were also variants of the Trum type. On gas. But the size of a battery)) Also not an option. I only have 2.5 m2))

In general, having rummaged through the sites, I found a simple and ingenious solution. Heat exchanger for a winter tent.

What it is? It is a steel box with tubes welded through. There is a hole for the burner at the bottom of the combustion chamber, and an exhaust pipe at the top. The fan sucks in air from the computer 12V.

Sketchy, but I think it's clear. The burner heats up the tubes, the air entering from one side cold, warming up, comes out from the other side hot. And CO2 goes out through the exhaust pipe to the street. As a result, the air in the cabin is clean and warm. There is no risk of burning out and poisoning. The photo shows a heat exchanger without a fan.

Any gas burner can be used. Tourist kerosene stove, infrared, gas stove, etc.

Since I wanted to use it more or less permanently (but with the ability to remove it for the summer period), I integrated the burner completely inside the combustion chamber. Thus, I completely excluded the burnout of oxygen in the cabin.

At the bottom of the door I have a fresh air supply, and at the top, under the ceiling, there is a forced draft. The same fan from a 12 V computer. The consumption of such fans is 0.3 A. It is simply negligible.

I moved the exhaust pipe to the side wall. Since I needed to get her out under the seat.

Thus, I also freed the plane from above. And now you can warm up food or tea on it.

But it was still dangerous. You could accidentally get burned. And I covered everything with a simple shield. It has become more cultural and safe.

By the way, about safety. Burner with valve. In the absence of a flame, it shuts off the gas. There is also a sensor for gas leakage and excess CO2

In the event of a leak, it squeals like a cut)).

The exhaust comes out under the seat. The temperature of the pipe in this place is still hot, but the hand is already suffering. But nevertheless, I decided to make the first knee out of stainless steel. Just in case.

Next, a regular plumbing pipe is connected. Gray. Here it is already cold. The pipe is installed only in parking lots, so it is quick-detachable.

Well, to summarize what we have.

The cost of the heater is 3000 with all works and spare parts. Dimensions 25 * 25 * 35. Fuel gas. Consumption 100g / h at full. Powered by a 5L bottle. Warm up from zero to 20 degrees in 10 minutes. Then you can bet on the minimum. Or even turn it off for a couple of hours.

In the summer, it can be removed so as not to interfere. You can take it with you to camping. Set up in a tent. Use for winter fishing. There is simply nothing to break. Of the minuses - you cannot set the temperature. Not aesthetic appearance.

Click on the button to subscribe to "How It's Done"!

If you have a production or service that you want to tell our readers about, write to Aslan () and we will make the best report that will be seen not only by the readers of the community, but also by the site How is it done

I have already mentioned my heat exchanger in the camper. There was a lot of criticism in his address. And I decided to write a separate post about him. And tell in more detail about him. Why do I need this? In early spring and autumn, it is already cold in the mornings and evenings. And I still go on hikes. And sleeping in a camper is already uncomfortable without heating.

I decided to fix it. You can't afford to buy Webasto. And to use the heater for a couple of weeks a year for such an amount is impractical. Therefore, neither the webasto nor the planar suited me. And my choice fell on such a fishing gadget as a heat exchanger. Purchased also cost about 5 thousand. And I did not see anything difficult to make. So I did it myself. What it is? This is a metal box. Below is a square hole for a gas burner, an exhaust pipe on the side. Heat exchanger tubes are welded inside. On one side there is a 12 V computer fan.It drives cold air from the street, the air passing through the tubes is heated by gas and comes out from the other side hot. The scheme is something like this.

Only the exhaust pipe, for technical reasons, I moved to the side. Since the pipe goes right under the seat and into the street.

Any burner can be used for heating. Infrared, or ordinary primus ... I used a tourist tile.

But later I decided to improve a little and integrated the burner directly into the furnace.

It turned out reliably, nothing more. There are enough holes in the plate to create excellent draft and air suction.

The exhaust pipe on the first elbow is made of stainless steel. It is still quite hot on the way out, although the hand suffers for a short time.

On the street there is just a gray water pipe. She's just cold.

The heat exchanger and the pipe itself are removed for the summer.

The stove itself is equipped with a protective casing. So as not to burn yourself and just for aesthetics ...

Warm up at about 0 degrees outside for up to 20 - 10 minutes. Then it is put to the minimum.

Pros - price. 1000 rubles with material, work and a fan. Weight no more than 3 kg. Size 25 * 25 * 40. Fast installation. Profitability. 150 gh of gas and 0.25Ah of current. Universal use. (Fishing, summer cottage, garage ...)

Cons - unsightly look, unsafe.

I am successfully fighting the latter. Gas analyzer purchased. There are plans to supply a thermocouple for emergency shutdown of the gas supply.

In general, something like this. Below is my video on the topic.

Having built a camper, it bothered me a little that it cannot be used in between sessions. Cold.

After looking at the profile sites, I found several solutions. But none of them suited me. Offered or insanely expensive heaters Webasto, Planar and the like. from 30,000. Or Chinese counterparts from 25,000. All of this was powered by diesel or gasoline fuel. And mercilessly sucked out the battery. Required stationary installation and expensive maintenance. For branded motorhomes this may be good, but considering the cost of my camper (50,000), the price of the heater is too high. There were also variants of the Trum type. On gas. But the size of a battery)) Also not an option. I only have 2.5 m2))

In general, having rummaged through the sites, I found a simple and ingenious solution. Heat exchanger for a winter tent.

I moved the exhaust pipe to the side wall. Since I needed to get her out under the seat.

Thus, I also freed the plane from above. And now you can warm up food or tea on it.

In the event of a leak, it squeals like a cut)).

Well, to summarize what we have.

Beck 30 Nov 2009, 02:15

Installing a gas heater on a motorhome trailer cottage! Tips for those who do not have a heater in the cottage trailer or who build a caravan trailer cottage with their own hands

It is difficult to overestimate the benefits of the heater during the cold season. Let's consider the main stages of its installation.

When evenings and nights get chilly, all caravanners that have a gas system and a gas heater only notice it when they go outside, because inside their caravans the caravan is still warm. Those who do not have a heater can only install it, or replace a broken or outdated one. At the same time, even a prepared and knowledgeable amateur is strongly advised to seek the help of professionals.

Before installing the heater, it is necessary to install or put in order the existing gas supply system in the caravan.Some caravan caravans, for example, the Eifelland Deseo, are equipped with only a compartment for gas cylinders as standard. However, for the gas installer, this is not a problem. With the help of a special tool, it will bend and lay gas pipes under the floor of the caravan to the kitchen block, as well as to a special compartment in which the heater of your choice will be located.

(Combustion products from the heater exit through the outlet under the floor of the caravan)

When choosing a place to install the heater, you should take into account all the features of the caravan caravan. For example, a Truma E-4000 heater is well suited for Deseo. Due to its compact size, it can be placed in a separate compartment, including under the caravan floor, saving space in the room. The system is controlled by a rotary switch-regulator mounted in a convenient place.

An important part of the system is the underfloor exhaust system. When using such a scheme, there is no need for a complicated installation of the exhaust system through the wall of the caravan, and the exhaust is practically invisible from the outside. After installing the hood and its reliable sealing at the installation site, the heated air supply ducts are laid - for this, special flexible plastic pipes are used. Moreover, in each duct, if it is divided into several branches, at least one branch must always be open in order to avoid overheating of the heater. The same applies to the air inlets of the heater, through which it draws in air from the room. In a compact motorhome, a caravan with a simple layout like the Deseo, ducting is not a problem. Two air ducts leaving the compartment where the heater is located, and one leading out at the rear of the caravan, provide more than sufficient heating of the entire room.

Installation of the control system

Finally, an electronic heating control unit is attached to the wall of the heater compartment. The rotary encoder is located in a convenient place, for example, near the solar display. In the summer, the E-400 can be used with the heating off and the fan on to circulate indoor air in hot and calm weather.

As with the installation of gas equipment, the installation of the heating system must be carried out by a specialist. In general, the necessary installation work takes about 8 hours. The basic cost of the Truma E-4000 heater is around 1260 euros. In addition, additional accessories such as exhaust system and air ducts are required. When installed on a Deseo, the total cost is around 1400 euros.

After the installation is completed, it is imperative to check the gas system - this is also a job for a specialist. In the future, this check must be completed at least once every two years. The heating system may only be used after a successful test.

New heaters are the source of a specific odor. Before driving for the first time, let the new heater run for several hours at maximum heat setting while ensuring good ventilation.

Eiffelland Deseo has a compartment for gas cylinders, everything else needs to be installed additionally.

The gas pipes are bent and laid under the floor of the caravan using a special tool.

In the trailer that I made (the theme “Skif from Valentine), I really missed the stove for heating. It is problematic to adapt a "Truma" or a household gas convector to it because of their relatively large dimensions. When the trailer is folded, there is about 400mm height inside.
The idea came to construct a very simple gas heater from scrap materials ...

So, let's take the "Skif" -transformer:

Or the usual "Skif", in which the entire body (most importantly, the bottom!) Is metal:

In the bottom we cut out a rectangular hole, say, 300 x 300mm and close it from below (by bolting through an asbestos gasket), for example, with a plate of thick (5-10mm) metal, ideally stainless:

Inside the trailer, all this must be closed with an openwork metal grate in order to walk there normally:

Now, in order to warm up in the trailer, it is necessary to place a gas burner from below under this stove (at least from an ordinary household stove). Obviously, it is advisable to close this burner with some kind of protective casing, or rather, it is necessary to make a removable metal (?) Casing, which can be quickly (on latches) removed and put on the trailer.

This is all just a diagram, the design can be more beautiful and more convenient to use. For example, you can also fix the burner permanently, if it is flat enough so as not to greatly reduce the ground clearance. The stove control can be mounted in a trailer, near a gas cylinder. And piezo ignition will not hurt.

-small efficiency? (but, we can agree with this, if such a stove will not freeze in cold weather to zero degrees, at least at the cost of consuming 5 liters of a gas cylinder (for me this is quite acceptable, it means that you can ride with sleepovers all autumn ...)

- safety of use? Relatively reliable, if the burner goes out, it just gets cold, you won't get poisoned with gas.

- Inconvenience to put and remove the external burner every time? You can, if not completely get rid of this, then at least greatly simplify this procedure.

The stove is far from ideal, but it should be heated. In essence, this is a "warm floor" heating system, implemented not with the help of electricity, but with gas ...

Vacation with friends. Our events

Commander »Apr 18, 2013, 05:56 am

Andreyka »Apr 18, 2013, 06:35 am

I do not need resentment, Ambition has long been forgotten.
I feel bad - an ambulance will arrive, but good - the POLICE.

N E G D I T E Ch U D A P U D And T E S A M I! ! !
Brotherhood of Mobile Bathrooms - BMS.

Commander »Apr 18, 2013, 06:49 am

Hunter »18 Apr 2013, 10:40

Goofy »18 Apr 2013, 10:44

you have one. -
viewtopic.php? f = 238 & t = 891
if not. there is a nameplate under the protective screen on the heater itself!

pictures are always needed for clarity!

again it becomes clear and beautiful)) with pictures)

pictures of the stove itself and more pictures of the gas compartment!

how did it work all this before?
clicks are audible - it means there is ignition. sparks a spark!
sparks in the window can not be seen - perhaps a break or clicks on the screen itself or the stove!
need to look for it!
there is a smell of gas - excellent. it means gas is coming
what smells of gas is bad. because it shouldn't. the system is closed so as not to burn out and all the product of ignition and not combustion goes into the chimney)
not. it certainly can smell. since the combustion itself occurs from the outside - under the floor
and if there is no ignition. and a propane-butane mixture is heavier than air. then all this goes down and does not fall into the pipe

I would go from the opposite and the elimination method!
would take another balloon. I would fill it up and try to run it again in several approaches!

tell. and when you pressed the handle. turned. hold on and go flicks. Can't you see any flashing in the window?

best regards BMS

Robinzon »18 Apr 2013, 12:21

Commander »Apr 19, 2013 4:11 am

Andreyka »Apr 19, 2013, 05:10 am

I do not need resentment, Ambition has long been forgotten.
I feel bad - an ambulance will arrive, but good - the POLICE.

N E G D I T E Ch U D A P U D And T E S A M I! ! !
Brotherhood of Mobile Bathrooms - BMS.

Hunter Apr 19, 2013 7:25 am

Goofy Apr 19, 2013 10:51 am

I especially did not needlessly delve into the availability of this shelf as a separate spare part. but I think yes. if it has a number. then she has the right to life!
when you throw off the stove on the gun. disassemble. then you will understand that there is nothing complicated. I think that you can brew. make reinforcement in the unused places from the bottom at the seam and everything will be ok!
you don't have to order and wait!
not enough. after you do. then you can run on your knees so to speak and check the performance!
And yet, if you already got there, then serve and all the burners. clean. blow through and so on!
summer summer. and winter, as always, will come suddenly!

good luck!

best regards BMS

Having built a camper, it bothered me a little that it cannot be used in between sessions. Cold.

After looking at the profile sites, I found several solutions. But none of them suited me. Offered or insanely expensive heaters Webasto, Planar and the like ... from 30,000.Or Chinese counterparts from 25,000. All this was powered by diesel or gasoline fuel. And mercilessly sucked out the battery. Required stationary installation and expensive maintenance. For branded motorhomes this may be good, but considering the cost of my camper (50,000), the price of the heater is too high ... There were also variants of the Trum type. On gas. But the size of a battery)) Also not an option. I only have 2.5 m2))

In general, having rummaged through the sites, I found a simple and ingenious solution. Heat exchanger for a winter tent.

Any gas burner can be used. Tourist kerosene stove, infrared, gas stove, etc.

I moved the exhaust pipe to the side wall. Since I needed to get her out under the seat.

Thus, I also freed the plane from above. And now you can warm up food or tea on it.

But it was still dangerous. You could accidentally get burned. And I covered everything with a simple shield. It has become more cultural and safe.

By the way, about safety. Burner with valve. In the absence of a flame, it shuts off the gas. There is also a sensor for gas leakage and excess CO2

In the event of a leak, it squeals like a cut)).

Next, a regular plumbing pipe is connected. Gray. Here it is already cold. The pipe is installed only in parking lots, so it is quick-detachable.

Well, to summarize what we have.

Having built a camper, it bothered me a little that it cannot be used in between sessions. Cold.

After looking at the profile sites, I found several solutions. But none of them suited me. Offered either insanely expensive heaters Webasto, Planar and the like ... from 30,000. Or Chinese counterparts from 25,000. All this was powered by fuel such as diesel or gasoline. And mercilessly sucked out the battery. Required stationary installation and expensive maintenance. For branded motorhomes this may be good, but considering the cost of my camper (50,000), the price of the heater is too high ... There were also variants of the Trum type. On gas. But the size of a battery)) Also not an option. I only have 2.5 m2))

In general, having rummaged through the sites, I found a simple and ingenious solution. Heat exchanger for a winter tent.

Sketchy, but I think it's clear. The burner heats up the tubes, the air entering from one side cold, warming up, comes out from the other side hot.And CO2 goes out through the exhaust pipe to the street. As a result, the air in the cabin is clean and warm. There is no risk of burning out and poisoning. The photo shows a heat exchanger without a fan.

Any gas burner can be used. Tourist kerosene stove, infrared, gas stove, etc.

I moved the exhaust pipe to the side wall. Since I needed to get her out under the seat.

Thus, I also freed the plane from above. And now you can warm up food or tea on it.

But it was still dangerous. You could accidentally get burned. And I covered everything with a simple shield. It has become more cultural and safe.

By the way, about safety. Burner with valve. In the absence of a flame, it shuts off the gas. There is also a sensor for gas leakage and excess CO2

In the event of a leak, it squeals like a cut)).

Next, a regular plumbing pipe is connected. Gray. Here it is already cold. The pipe is installed only in parking lots, so it is quick-detachable.

Well, to summarize what we have.

Mobile homes are specially created for the purpose of autonomous life support in conditions of temporary residence outside stationary dwellings: when driving on the road, in parkings in nature. Their full life support cycle is serviced by a set of equipment and devices included in the water supply system, electric or gas. These systems have both centralized control and local control through mechanisms for switching on and setting up specific equipment. In the first case, it is a common electronic control panel that is present in all modern mobile homes.

RV life support systems

In addition to lighting devices and electrical outlets, the operation of the equipment of other systems depends on the electrical network: a water pump, a refrigerator, an air conditioner in a residential area, a piezo ignition of a gas stove, a heater, etc. The internal power grid of mobile homes is powered both from the interior batteries and from an external power source in the parking lot when connected through an appropriate cable connected to an external power port. The power grid can operate both from 12 V (batteries) and from 220 V (external power supply). In the latter case, the voltage converters will supply the required voltage to the electrical equipment.

If parked at a campsite mobile home is connected to 220 V, then 220 V will be supplied to the internal sockets, thanks to which you can use the usual household appliances taken with you from home. In modern models, a reverse converter from 12 V to 220 V is often installed, so you can use the same devices without resorting to external connections.

Batteries can be charged while the engine is running (in motorhomes) or when the RV is connected to an external power source. In the autonomous mode of the network in the parking lot without connection, with the usual non-energy-intensive battery consumption, about two days will be enough. When driving a motorhome to a campsite for the night, if there is no energy-intensive equipment, then there is no particular need for an external connection - running the engine the next day will recharge the batteries. For long-term parking outside the possibilities of external electrical connection, a fuel generator is indispensable. It is important that it does not take up much space and fits in the garage compartment.
Water supply system

The main task of the system is to supply water to plumbing equipment. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure the filling and storage of clean water, as well as the storage and discharge of waste water.

The camper's water supply system consists of:

clean water tank
water pump
hot water boiler
flexible plastic water pipes
plumbing devices
waste water tank.

Clean water is supplied using a flexible hose and poured into the tank through the outer neck (located on the sides or in the stern). Depending on the size and layout of mobile homes, the volume of clean water tanks varies. But there is never enough water. A tank with a volume of about one hundred liters with normal water consumption with the use of a shower, two or three tourists are not enough for more than one day. Therefore, the logic of installing an additional second tank in motorhomes is understandable, although this entails an increase in the load by tens of kilograms.
Tanks of clean water in caravans can be both stationary and removable. To install clean water tanks, as a rule, they use the space under the sofas inside the living area.

Waste water tanks are attached from the outside under the bottom. From them branch pipes with drain taps depart. The standard for civilized countries is to discharge waste water only in special places in campsites or campgrounds, which ensure its direct discharge into the sewer.
Under the action of a water pump, cold or hot water is supplied through the mixers to the shower, washbasin and kitchen sink. Also, water is supplied to drain the toilet bowl of the dry closet. The dry closet cassette is removable - for this, an external hatch is arranged on one of the sides or stern. The cassettes are filled with special chemicals diluted with water. The filled cassettes are drained in special service areas equipped with special wide toilet bowls (it is forbidden to use a regular toilet bowl) or sewer openings. After draining the contents, the cassette is rinsed until it is as clean as possible.

Camper gas system

The gas system solves the most important life support tasks: heating the living area, hot water supply, cooking. Gas stored in gas cylinders is supplied through a gas line to household equipment operating on it: a heater, stove, refrigerator (in gas mode), hot water boiler.

In motorhomes for gas cylinders a separate compartment is provided on the outside along the board. In caravans, gas cylinders are usually installed in the front in the luggage compartment above the hitch. The cylinder is connected to the system through a flexible hose. Then, through the supply pipeline (copper pipes), the gas is distributed to the sources of consumption.

Gas compartments designed for two gas cylinders. The presence of a second additional cylinder is of great practical importance. This will not allow you to suddenly remain without gas (which is especially important in winter) in the event that the connected cylinder runs out. The moment of full gas consumption in a cylinder cannot always be determined accurately, especially without special filling level sensors, which, for some reason, are rarely used. When one cylinder runs out, a full second is connected to the system. A rule should be worked out: always carry a full additional cylinder and fill (or exchange) an empty one as soon as possible, without delay.

Gas consumption depends both on the intensity of use of gas-powered equipment and on the season of the year. In a warm period of time, one 11 kilogram balloon is enough for an average of a week. In the cold period, with constant gas heating, one cylinder will last no more than three days.

Gasnew cylinders for mobile homes belong to household, filled with propane and by weight. It is officially forbidden to fill them with liquefied gas per liter, as happens at gas car filling stations. However, this prohibition is often circumvented by using special adapters and not filling the cylinder completely.

With air heating, hot air from a gas heater is distributed through the nozzles to different parts of the living area. With water heating, heating elements - radiators are distributed over the living area. Air and water heating have their own pros and cons. The determining factor here is the power of the gas heater, sufficient for the operation of a mobile home in cold winters.In Europe, where winters are mild, and mobile homes are usually not used in winter, in reality there are not so many warm models.

Until recently, it was forbidden in Europe to use gas-powered equipment while driving, which was mentioned in the instructions for using the equipment. The ban was related not so much to the design limitations of the equipment, but to safety issues - to avoid gas leaks, which could result from shaking. Now this ban has been lifted, provided that a special blocking device is installed in the gas compartment. In the CIS, such a ban did not exist at all. It is unthinkable to find yourself without heating the living area when driving in winter in Russia.

Features of winter operation of a mobile home

In winter time water supply system needs special actions and measures to prevent water from freezing in water tanks and pipelines at sub-zero temperatures.

First of all, the waste water tanks, being outside the heated living area outside under the bottom, are exposed to the air temperature. There are a number of design solutions (often offered as an option) for insulating and heating waste water tanks. But even an installed heating element has a limit of its efficiency up to -5 - -7 degrees.
In the case of a lower temperature or when the tank is not heated at all, proceed as follows: keep the drain valve of the waste water tank open all the time; closing the tap every time they use water, they rush to drain the water immediately after.

Video (click to play).

Other measures relate to the residential area, when it is no longer heated when the mobile home is parked. The water must be drained from the clean water tank and boiler tank. There should also be no water left in the water pipes and the water pump, for which the system is purged with a short-term idle operation of the water pump.

Rate the article:

Grade 3.2 who voted: 84