DIY Neva gas water heater repair

In detail: DIY repair of a gas water heater Neva from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Since the Neva 4511 series geyser is one of the most common models, the topic of its maintenance and repair is of interest to many users who are accustomed to doing such work with their own hands. Indeed, these open-chamber instantaneous water heaters can often be brought back to life without the need for service personnel. Let's look at what malfunctions occur during the operation of these units, as well as ways to eliminate them.

It is impossible to independently repair a household appliance without knowing how it functions and what it consists of. Unlike old-style water heating devices, this series of gas water heaters is equipped with a controller and electric ignition, which made it possible to remove a constantly burning igniter. The rest of the design remained fairly simple and maintainable. It consists of the following basic elements:

Housing with hinges for wall mounting.
The diffuser is a collection of combustion products with a chimney pipe.
Copper heat exchanger.
Gas burner device.
Water node.
Membrane actuator (so-called frog).
A gas valve with an electromagnet, connected by a common stem to a water unit.
Controller.
Microswitch for power supply to the electronic unit.
Water supply pipes.
Ignition electrode.
Flame detector (ionization).
Additional electrode for ignition of the burner.
The valve is a flow regulator.
Adjustment of the intensity of combustion and heating temperature.
Connection of a draft sensor installed inside the diffuser.
Compartment for batteries (batteries).

Video (click to play).

The diagram above shows the device of the Neva gas column with numerical designations of parts corresponding to the list.

Automatic switching on and heating is controlled by the water unit together with the controller, and the solenoid valve connected to the draft sensor is responsible for the safe gas supply. The algorithm for the operation of a water heater looks like this:

After opening the hot water tap at the inlet of the "frog", pressure arises, which acts on the rubber membrane of the assembly. It moves the stem that opens the gas valve and closes the microswitch contacts.
When the electrical circuit is closed, battery power is supplied to the controller. He gives 2 commands at the same time: open the solenoid valve for gas passage and create a spark on the ignition electrodes. As a result, the burner ignites.
The flame sensor detects the appearance of fire and transmits a pulse to the electronic unit, which interrupts the sparking. The heater switches to operating mode.
When the valve on the mixer is closed, the pressure in the network disappears and the spring throws the frog diaphragm back, at the same time closing the mechanical gas valve. The limit switch is triggered and the controller loses power, and with it - the electromagnet. The fuel supply is interrupted and the burner is extinguished.

The fundamental point. The solenoid valve is connected in one circuit with the draft sensor (pos. 16 of the diagram). If, for various reasons, the draft in the chimney disappears or weakens, the sensor will heat up and open the circuit, de-energizing the electromagnet. The latter will return to the closed position and cut off the gas supply to the burner.

To exclude possible overheating of the water in the heat exchanger, the manufacturer has implemented a simple technical solution: a temperature sensor connected to the controller is built into the pipeline. If the flow heats up to a critical level (about 90 ° C), then the gas supply will automatically stop and the burner will go out.The structure and principle of operation of the Neva 4511 column is shown more clearly in the video:

In order to fix the malfunction of the Neva gas column with your own hands, you need to diagnose it correctly. Over the years of operation of the water heating apparatus, one part of the parts wears out and requires replacement, the other - periodic maintenance. In this case, a variety of problems arise, characterized by certain symptoms. We propose to divide all emerging problems into groups according to the following criteria:

the burner does not light up when opening the tap of the DHW system;
after working for 5-10 seconds, the unit shuts down;
the flow heater starts up and functions properly, but does not heat the water well;
other problems.

Advice. Most often, the rubber membrane of the water unit fails in gas water heaters - it stretches, cracks or breaks. This is a consumable part that should always be kept in stock. A sample of the part is shown in the photo.

When the water heater does not react in any way to the inclusion of hot water, you need to perform the simplest action - check the condition of the batteries and the contacts of the battery compartment (they can oxidize). Clean them with sandpaper, install a new set of batteries, and then try firing up again.

An important point. The luminous display of a household appliance does not at all indicate a full charge of the batteries, since it does not consume much energy. If the batteries are "hung up", then the voltage for triggering the electromagnet and sparking may not be enough. According to the specifications published on the official website of the manufacturer, the set of elements is enough for about 250 hours of operation.

Battery compartment location - bottom view of the device

Is the power supply ok? Then continue diagnosing the gas water heater using this algorithm:

Make sure that there is enough pressure in the piping to turn on the device. It is possible that someone accidentally closed the shut-off valve or control valve on the heater itself (on the right).
If there is a strainer on the incoming water supply, check its condition and clean if necessary.
Remove the front panel of the device and open the DHW tap, observing the stem. If it does not move under normal water pressure, the reason lies in the frog's membrane.
The stem has moved, released the switch button, but nothing happens? There is a problem with the electrical circuits. You need to check the microswitch and ring the other wires supplying the controller and solenoid valve.

Advice. When repairing the Neva gas water heater, accompanied by disassembling the unit, just in case, shut off the gas main.

To dismantle the front casing, it is necessary to remove the plastic handles from the control valves and disconnect the display connection connector. At the back, the panel is supported by 2 self-tapping screws located at the bottom of the device. Unscrew them and remove the cover by pulling it towards you and pulling it up.

To check the limit switch, you must disconnect the connector and ring it with a multimeter or lamp tester. When the button is pressed, the circuit must be open. As for the wiring, it rarely fails, unless you catch your eye on a fallen off wire, which is easily removed.

To replace the membrane in the Neva 4511 column, remove and disassemble the water unit together with the gas one, following the instructions:

Close the cold water and gas supply, unscrew both supply pipes with an open-end wrench. Also disconnect the copper pipe leading to the heat exchanger.
Disconnect the controller and microswitch connectors.
The entire water / gas block is fixed with 2 screws to the burner flange. Unscrew them with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the assembly.
Disassemble the frog and replace the membrane, and with it the small O-ring shown in the photo.

Note. The replacement can be done without dismantling the whole block, but it is extremely inconvenient to perform the operation in this position.The described disassembly technology is also suitable for other models of gas water heaters - Neva Lux 4510, 5611 and so on.

How the membrane of an instantaneous water heater changes, see the next video:

When sparking is visible on the spark plug but the burner is idle, check the following points:

whether the spark electrode has moved relative to the nozzle;

whether the traction or overheating sensor that opens the solenoid valve circuit is out of order;

does it pierce a high-voltage wire onto the case;

spark has diminished due to plugged plug or battery discharge.

The electrode should be located directly above the nozzle of one of the burner sections at a distance of no more than 5 mm from it. A violation of the position of the candle is corrected by simple bending. Sometimes it is enough to clean the end of the electrode from soot to increase the spark power. Image - DIY repair of a gas water heater neva

The operation of the traction and overheating sensors is checked by direct closure of their contacts. Place jumpers on each device in turn, including the water on the faucet. If a flame appears, replace the faulty sensor.

If the flame in the column lights up properly together with the appearance of a water draw, and after 5-10 seconds it goes out, then the reasons may be as follows:

the ionization sensor does not work (does not detect the ignition of the fuel);
there is no draft in the chimney, which is why the corresponding sensor overheats and opens the electrical circuit;
the maximum heating is set at a low water consumption, which is why its temperature quickly reaches 90 ° C and the overheating sensor is triggered.

The last 2 malfunctions do not depend on the water heater and are eliminated by the user on an individual basis. Sometimes the damping effect is created by a diaphragm that is too stretched: at the first moment after water is supplied, it moves the stem, and when the pressure in the pipe is normalized, it releases again.

The flame sensor fails for three reasons:

The electrode is covered with a thick layer of soot and requires cleaning.
The "nose" of the device is bent down from prolonged exposure to temperature and needs to be slightly bent up, as shown in the video.
The device is out of order and needs to be replaced.

The opposite situation also happens: the DHW tap is closed, and the burner continues to work. Here there is a jamming of the stem, which is eliminated by disassembling and cleaning the water-gas block.

There are two reasons for this phenomenon: clogging of the burner nozzles and deposits in the heat exchanger tubes. In the first case, a change in the blue color of the flame to yellow or reddish is noticeable, the gas burner device begins to smoke. To eliminate it, it is advisable to call the gas service master, but if necessary, you can handle it yourself:

Shut off the gas supply.

Dismantle the burner by unscrewing the compression nut on the gas line and 4 screws not shown below.

Purge the assembly in an accessible way to remove dust, and then wash with a mild soapy solution.

Dry the device and re-assemble the column in reverse order.

If the burner operates properly, but the water does not heat up, then the heat exchanger must be flushed. The factory - the manufacturer provides for a simplified dismantling of the element: drain the water from the column, unscrew the two connecting nuts on the pipes (shown in the photo with green arrows) and 2 fastening screws from above. After that, immerse the heat exchanger in a bucket with citric acid solution (100 grams per 1 liter of water) and wait until it corrodes the scale. After thoroughly rinsing and drying, reinstall the element.

Advice. When reassembling the heat exchanger, it is advisable to change the rubber gaskets inside the union nuts.

This is not to say that it is unrealistic or unacceptable to repair the Neva gas water heater yourself. You can really cope with the common malfunctions described above on your own, and without any special tools. It should be remembered that the water heater belongs to gas-powered equipment that requires a careful and thorough approach.

Warning.This section is intended for specialists who have the appropriate permission to repair gas equipment! If you repair yourself during the warranty period, the warranty is void!

This article will focus on malfunctions of Neva speakers (models 4510, 4511, 4513, 4510M, 4513M, 4610, 5611). Many Chinese speakers, such as Vecktor or Oasis, and not only Chinese ones, work on the same principle as the Neva, so the remedies below apply to them as well. But, please be more careful, the photographs in the article show details for the Neva columns.

No spark when hot water is opened.

When the hot water tap is opened, there is a spark discharge, but the column does not ignite.

Check if the hot water tap in front of the column is open.
There is no gas in the main gas pipeline. You need to call the service to fix the problem.
Check the serviceability of the EMC. Connection contacts may be broken.
Correct the spark plug, it is possible that the discharge does not reach the flow of the gas-air mixture (about 5 mm from the end of the plug to the burner).
When using a column from liquefied gas, it is necessary to check the gas supply in the container (cylinder).
Weak spark from spark plug electrode. It is required to clean the contacts of the battery compartment or to completely replace the ignition elements (batteries).

The column will run for a while and turn off.

Poor cravings. Thrust sensor triggering. It is necessary to clean the chimney or check the tightness of the exhaust pipe connection on the column pipe.
Overheating of water (outlet water temperature is more than 90C, triggering of the limit temperature sensor). It is necessary to use the column control knobs to reduce the gas consumption and increase the water pressure.
Replace the membrane of the water unit.
There is no signal from the ionization sensor (flame sensor). In this case, the burner works for no more than 7 seconds, and spark discharges from the spark plug do not stop. It is necessary to restore contact with the sensor, correct its position (if it touches other elements of the burner) or replace it.

The water temperature reading is not shown on the column display.

Defective water temperature sensor. It needs to be replaced.
Check the connection contacts of the display itself to the ignition unit. If there is no result, replace the display.

The water does not heat up well.

Reduce water pressure.
It is required to check the heat exchanger for the presence of scale on its walls. If necessary, remove it, rinse with Solita. It is also necessary to clean the column burner from dust and soot on its surfaces.
Insufficient gas pressure in the line - call the service to eliminate the causes.
Repair or replacement of the water unit is required.

The flame of the burner of the column is yellow and weak, with smoky tongues.

1. It is necessary to clean the column burner from dust and soot on its nozzles and internal surfaces.

Excessive noise of water during the operation of the column.

It is necessary to reduce the water pressure with the column adjustment knob.
Extrudes gaskets at the joints of the water pipes. Replacement of gaskets is required.

The burner continues to operate even when the hot water tap is closed.

The stem of the gas unit is seized (it is very difficult to move the stem manually). It will be easier and safer to replace this unit.
It is required to replace the membrane of the water unit.

These were the most common malfunctions of the Neva speakers. We hope this article helped you troubleshoot your water heater.

the wick burns very strong during the night heats up the pipes with water when the water is opened after a few seconds there is boiling water for the daughter-in-law of the children sprinkles when they wash their hands the plastic tubes of the teapot how to reduce the wick

Hello, tell me the model of the column.

remove the front cover and on the gearbox you will see a yellow bronze screw for a screwdriver. twist it smoothly while the wick is working.

WHY WHEN THE WATER REGULATOR IS ADDED IT GOES OUT

Nikolay, to open the gas valve, you need a certain water pressure in the water valve.As the flow of water increases, you decrease this pressure and the gas valve closes.

The situation is as follows: when the hot water tap is opened, the flame does not light up for 4 seconds, and then a strong pop. The flame ionisation sensor is not working. Previously, after three seconds there was no flame, the gas supply to the burner stopped. This rarely happens. Neva 4501

Hello Dmitry. The ionization sensor has nothing to do with it. There are several probable reasons:
1. Check batteries (replace if necessary)
2. Check the ignition plug, its position relative to the burner (5mm gap)
3. Poor traction is possible (gases accumulate and therefore cotton occurs)
4. Clean the burner itself from soot
5. Unlikely, but still, the control unit itself requires replacement.

Hello. Column Neva. There is a slight leak in the area of the microswitch. What do you recommend to do?

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature.Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

open-end wrenches (set);
screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
paronite gaskets (set);
rubber hose;
vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

first, we block the access of cold water;
then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
we open the "hot" tap;
unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney.If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.

Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.

This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.

A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation... It usually looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.

In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.

If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.

This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:

Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
Replacing a radiator or taps is quite expensive. Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on your own. For repairs you need:

screwdrivers (cross and regular);
open-end wrenches (set);
solder with rosin;
a vacuum cleaner;
solvent;
"Skin".

Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them. If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.

Preparing the gas water heater for repair

Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
Remove the radiator completely;
Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.

Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.

When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:

clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).

Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.

Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column.All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.

Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
If you notice a gas column leak in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using a wrench (mostly 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.

These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:

a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low gas pressure, which generated a microexplosion;
the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
nozzle blockage;
low draft of ventilation;
the batteries are dead.

On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.

This can happen for several reasons.

The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater... You have saved money and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
The third reason is the usual blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.

DIY Neva 3208 gas water heater repair

ATTENTION! The topic is relevant for gas columns Neva 3208, Neva 3010, Neva 3110, Neva 3212, VPG-18, VPG-20, VPG-23, VPG-24. In fact, there may be models that are still unknown to us that use a similar water node.

In our opinion, these are the most reliable gas water heaters that have ever been produced in terms of the start-up chain and operation of water units. The record for the existence of such a geyser is 35 years from the date of installation and is still working.

Packing with grease a new water unit Neva 3208

Here's the point. New knots sometimes come from the factory “dry” like a mummy. The stem in such a “dry” assembly can wipe the gum-seal of the seal in 1-3 months. This often happens in other models of gas water heaters, when there is no grease packing in the water unit. In order not to get a leak from under the rod of the water unit in the coming year, we are extending a new water unit. We take it and do it.

Any thick moisture-resistant grease such as grease is suitable as a lubricant.

1. You don't need to do anything special with the node. You just need to unscrew the barrel nut that covers the PVC sleeve.
2. As soon as the nut has turned out, we see the sleeve. It is made of PVC. It must be pulled out. It's easy. Under the bushing there is an oil seal for the stem seal of the water unit. It’s such a small rubber band, but you don’t need to touch it.
3. Take the grease and stuff it directly into the hole.
4. Wrap the nut on the owl place.

The filling with grease of the water unit of the gas column Neva 3208 is completed.

Analysis of the water unit of the gas column Neva 3208

When do you usually have to climb into the water node?

The main malfunctions of the Neva 3208 gas column associated with the operation of the water unit are as follows:

We return to the water node.

1. Unscrew eight screws in a circle. Note in the head that the membrane has holes for these screws in a circle. The water unit is divided into two halves.
2. Take out the membrane of the water unit from one half.
3. From the second half, slowly take out the plate with the stem
4. Unscrew the nut and get to the PVC sleeve.
5. Take out the bushing, take out the rubber band of the stem seal

It's all. All this is quite simple to do. Accuracy comes first.The following are the repair kits for the water unit of the Neva 3208 gas column in two versions: a silicone membrane or a foam membrane, as well as spare parts that are in stock today. Good luck!

> Do-it-yourself Neva-Tranzit gas water heater repair. ”> DIY Neva-Tranzit gas water heater repair.

Hello everyone. I have not written anything useful for a long time and I hasten to provide you with a small manual for correcting one malfunction in gas water heaters. Rather, two malfunctions. I repaired it twice and in this article I will combine both breakdowns.

Several years ago I purchased a Neva-Tranzit forced draft gas water heater. You open the tap with water, the exhaust fan starts up and the burner ignites.

I want to warn you right away!

This work must be performed by a gas worker! But if you have straight hands, do not be lazy to follow a few simple rules before repairing any gas equipment:

Shut off the gas supply to the gas column,

If the speaker is powered by an electrical outlet, unplug it by

Ventilate the room during operation.

And at a great moment, the burner began to work poorly, or it started up every other time, or did not work at all. After a little analysis (watching the start-up when opening the tap) I noticed that the gas could not ignite due to a weak spark. As you can see in the photo below, three contacts fit the burner, two contacts create a spark through the generation unit, the third monitors the flame. If the fire goes out, the third contact informs the sensor that it is necessary to turn off the gas. In my situation, only one contact gave a spark, and that one was intermittent.

To eliminate this malfunction, it is enough to replace this spark generation unit.

First, remove the speaker bezel. To do this, remove the water adjustment knob (pull it out, gently). Above and below the front panel is held by self-tapping screws, unscrew and remove. Just do not pull, wires fit to the buttons on the panel, you must carefully disconnect them from the panel.

The ignition unit is supplied without contacts, but with wires. The unit is held on by bolts and is connected with a connector. The wires are disconnected from the contacts by simply pulling them down. And they are inserted back with a little effort, there is a needle inside that contacts the wire. Before installing, I recommend that you check that the wire has an even cut. There is nothing complicated here.

We turn to the second malfunction of the gas column.

Yes, and it is not always necessary to sin on the pressure of water either. After four years of almost constant work, my gas water heater began to start poorly. I tried to blame everything on a weak pressure of water, but I noticed that even with a good pressure, the column continued to mope.

I must say right away that this malfunction is eliminated by replacing the membrane in the unit, which is shown in the photo below.

And here is the new membrane itself. Its cost does not exceed 100 rubles.

Now let's get to the membrane in our column. I must say right away that you will have to disassemble half of the (bottom) column, so be patient and everything will work out.

And also, I did this for the first time and therefore there is no catch that anyone with straight hands can do it.

We need to disconnect and remove from the column the entire block where the membrane is located. To do this, as always, mark the connectors with a marker and disconnect all electrical wires.

After the electrician, we move on to the pipes through which water and gas flow. Two Phillips screwdrivers, a short and a long one, can come in handy. Also, stock up with a dry cloth, as a little water remains in the pipes. It is necessary to ensure that water does not get on the electrician of the column.

It is not very convenient to work, but it is worth it. Our block must be disconnected from the side of the ignition block (on the right) and from the top of the tube that passes through the burner.

Next, our block is removed from the column case. Next, it will need to be disassembled to replace the membrane. As shown in the photo below, unscrew the four screws.

View from the other side. The quality of the photo is not very good, but everything is clear.

By unscrewing the screws, we open our block with the membrane, since it comes into contact with water, it may take a little effort to separate the two halves. They can stick to each other. And here is our hardened membrane.

With a simple movement, it is removed and we put a new one in its place. When assembling, it is necessary to ensure that the membrane sits in its place.

Assembly proceeds as usual in reverse order. Watch the quality of the connections, do not twist the pipes when connecting. Tighten the screws firmly (within reasonable limits).

After assembly, the column worked better than the new one! The whole work took me about an hour without haste (I also photographed it).

Ignition block within 500 rubles.
The membrane is about 100 rubles.

The column works like new. Good luck!

Small addition. I found a very good video on disassembling the water block of the gas column. The location of the units and the causes of malfunctions are shown in detail.

Video (click to play).