Repair of a gas water heater mora top with your own hands

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a mora top gas water heater from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Geyser MORA 5506 is leaking

Leakage is approximately 100 ml per hour during column operation and 20-30 when idle. The pressure in the water supply system at the time of the photo session was 2.2 atm. But usually 1.2-1.5. Perhaps the increase in pressure did this and finished off the device.

The leak comes from here below from the block that fixes the water flow.

The white lever controls the gas flow.

From the experience of picking with AGS-3, I will assume that the membrane of the water flow sensor has broken.

I have several questions - the membrane is a separate element or the entire sensor assembly is changing
.

After replacing, what adjustments need to be made, otherwise I am very afraid of the self-start of the column without water sampling. As I understand it, the screw filled with paint is the only regulator in this unit.

How to properly dismantle the assembly so that nothing is disturbed in the gas part of the valve.

Where it is possible to purchase the specified spare parts on the Internet - can someone advise.

Is there any service documentation for this water heater?

1) What is under the plug with a 6-sided head under which the washer is scrolling. Is this another adjustment

2) What and how does a screw filled with paint regulate, if it does?

3) What does the regulator regulate hidden under the plastic cover and how is it interconnected with the regulators on the “water part”? As I understand it, this and that establishes the dependence of the gas flow rate on the water flow rate.

ZYZH to “local professionals” I have not the slightest desire - the “professional” connected the gas stove to one of them - that 2 fire brigades barely coped with it. Trust in local craftsmen - 0. And I won't get into the gas section either.

Video (click to play).

there is a valve for limiting the flow of water (just twists without adjustments)

min water consumption from which the column starts (adjustable)

Spare parts fit from the Termet 19-01 column

Thanks a lot for the explanations.

The tool is not a problem to disassemble. But first you need to find such details. By the way, in some photos there are 3 more springs from the heels on an elastic band - I'm afraid they could rot. Although the column works normally, it reacts to changes in flow rate.

Here's more from Neva-Lux

will not work, like a 1: 1 valve block, only a water body - plastic.

ZYZH - why the regulator of the degree of heating can turn very tightly - I'm afraid the plastic shaft will break. Deposits? Grease?

ZYZH2 to everyone - if someone knows normal online stores where there are these s / h I will be very grateful for the information.

Wladimir_TS wrote: "There is no problem to disassemble the tool."
Disassemble it will not get any worse. Deposits have been removed with chemistry, the diaphragm O-rings must be lubricated with silicone grease and the bolts must be tightened. Everything will be OK.

Wladimir_TS wrote: “ZYZH - why the heating degree regulator can turn very tightly - I'm afraid the plastic shaft will break. Deposits? "
If you disassemble you will see them - Deposits

I'll try it tonight. I will make a photo report.

I bought an elastic band just in case (the price was “pleasantly” surprised), asked about the cover, they said no, it wasn’t and never will be.

Hurray - I did it. Here is the promised photo report.

Let's dismantle.

And inside. meerziness and hate.

There was a defect on the cover - a crack in the place where the metal sleeve was pressed in. It is necessary, if possible, to buy a lid and also replace it.

He took the lid out of the saddle - and there.

Some form of life has clearly settled on the old membrane. Hopefully not reasonable

But there is a separate filter on the input. (The photo did not work out very well - I apologize - but there is a mesh and it is very much for. And hate, and the filter at the water inlet into the column with a slightly larger mesh cell is pristine.

Orthophosphoric acid + Faery-class surfactant + a little fine sandpaper (800) - already a more optimistic picture. The rest was washed in a solution of phosphoric acid in an ultrasonic bath, then in a solution of washing powder to neutralize the acid.

Actually AHTUNG is wrong here. - do not put the bottom plug from the valve before mounting the body on the gas block, otherwise it will not be ice as convenient to assemble.

when assembling, I used a sealant. I filled the shiv between the metal parts

Here. Then hydrotesting - everything works, the gadget valve reacts to the opening and closing of the water intake.

And finally, fire tests.

Tomorrow the sealant will polymerize - I will hold out the screws.

I authorize the use of these photos in any freely distributed materials for the repair of gas water heaters.

I authorize to use
Thanks to everybody, you're free. went to feel his immeasurable pride and Fr. cool

(Shyutka adnak)

Consider the typical breakdowns of Mohr's gas column and the necessary DIY repairs. Before starting troubleshooting, close the valve on the pipe through which the gas is introduced into the water heater. Even if a non-gas part is broken, there is a chance that it will catch on.

Mora heat exchangers are made of high quality copper, 1 mm thick. Water heats up inside the tubes and scale builds up on their walls. This leads to an increase in the heating time and a decrease in the head. The main sign of clogging of the heat exchanger pipes will be that water flows out of the tap actively, and the pressure through the column is weaker.

To clean the scale with your own hands, you should remove the casing from the water heater, drain the water and unscrew the union nuts from the outlets of the heat exchanger. After that, a special liquid for dissolving salts, which is sold in a hardware store, is poured into the tubes using a hose. Alternatively, you can use a solution with citric acid or vinegar. Wait a few hours for complete cleaning.

Further, the apparatus is assembled in the opposite order. The water valve and the tap at the watershed point are gradually turned on. A cloudy liquid will pour out. The pressure should increase and the heating should pass faster.

For prophylaxis, the heating temperature must be set to no more than 50 degrees. If the temperature is higher, scale settles especially actively.

The radiator is made up of metal plates with a small distance between them. Since the flame from the burner acts on them, soot accumulates between them over time.

Gas column radiator

This can be seen by the yellow color of the fire. The flame can be directed not in the upward direction, but to the side, thereby heating the casing. The water heats up longer even when the column is operating at full power and black soot is poured from under the device.

For repairs, remove the column shell, disconnect the heat exchanger pipes and completely dismantle it, having previously covered the burner with a rag so that it does not clog. The most convenient way to clean the bathroom radiator is under running water. If necessary, it is left to deteriorate in a container with chemicals. Finally, it is brushed with a soft long bristle brush, dried and set back.

One of the most common breakdowns of Mohr columns is the appearance of micro-holes on the heat exchanger tubes. To find them, it is necessary to carefully examine it with the tap turned off (in this case, the maximum pressure inside is reached). Some of the leaks will be visible by drops of water, the smallest fistulas can be seen by green or rusty streaks.

Before starting repair work, the water is drained. The breakdown can be eliminated in the following ways:

Install the rubber gasket, securing it from above with a metal clamp. This is one of the easiest, fastest and most reliable methods. True, it can be applied only if there is free space around the tube.
Use cold welding. Before buying, you should pay attention to the temperature for which it is intended. At the same time, take into account that the heat exchanger heats up more than the outlet water. After degreasing and cleaning, a layer of cold welding with a thickness of 1-2 mm is applied to the place of leakage.
The most reliable way is soldering. First, the fistula is cleaned, degreased and a layer of flux is applied to it. Next, the hole is sealed with a torch with a gas canister or a powerful soldering iron. The solder should cover the tube completely. If several fistulas are close, a copper plate must be soldered to this place.

At the end, the water heater is filled with liquid, and the places of the former leaks are carefully examined. You need to check first with cold, and then with the gas turned on with hot water.

If the gas does not turn on or the burner flame is very weak, it is possible that the membrane in the water unit is stretched or damaged. Water may also start to flow from the water block. In a Mora water heater, the water unit is located horizontally.

To get to the rubber membrane, first unscrew the union nuts for water supply and outlet from below. Then the heat exchanger tube is unscrewed, going to the back wall. With a screwdriver under an asterisk, four bolts are unscrewed, the cover of the water block is removed. Three springs are removed and a new diaphragm is installed.

It is important to buy a membrane designed specifically for your model, as there are many configurations now. After replacement, all units are assembled in the reverse order, the operation of the apparatus is tested.

Replacing the membrane in the gas column

For correct operation, the Mora water heater needs regular maintenance:

The batteries need to be replaced from time to time. If they sit down, then the spark continues to be generated, but its power is insufficient. Standard size of 1.5 volt R20 power cells. The container with them is located at the bottom of the device.
If you have hard and dirty water, the strainers should be cleaned and replaced in time. They are installed on the cold water inlet pipe. If you do not do this, over time it will lead to a decrease in pressure.
Clogged igniter. In semi-automatic models with a wick, the jet becomes clogged with dust over time. You can clean it with a thin soft wire.

If, after diagnostics, you could not find the cause of the malfunction, call specialists.

In conclusion, we offer a video about repairing the igniter of Mohr's gas column:

DIY repair. From the outlet to the air conditioner.

For the repair of household appliances, you can use the services of professionals. It's good if you find an honest master who will set an adequate price for the repair.

But there are specialists who are only interested in money and they can simply rob you, demanding a large sum of money for their services. Therefore, it is better to carry out repairs yourself and save the family budget.

Each household appliance has its own service life, during which it works stably. But when any components or parts are worn out, the device starts to malfunction and requires repair.

WATCH THE VIDEO.

thanks a similar problem, only my water barely heats up, I'll try the membrane, but no, I have to change the entire module (WATER-GAS VALVE) for 6200Watch the video here. Try adjusting the large screw from the left. The membrane is most often worn out.The author of the video does not understand the principle of the gas-water unit. Strengthening the action of the regulating spring leads to the fact that the force on the diaphragm increases and the gas opens at a greater pressure drop. The operation of the diaphragm to open the gas valve is based on the ejection effect, and to open the gas valve, the diaphragm must move towards the spring, i.e. the force from the spring must be weakened. Very important; the channel (hole on the water body and the membrane) communicating with the cavity behind the membrane must be absolutely clean.Otherwise, you can get a defect in the form of combustion of the column when the water supply is cut off. Opening the water bypass line with the adjusting knob reduces the pressure in the cavity in front of the diaphragm and the gas valve opens by a large amount. Content:

How Mora flow columns work

Standards for installation and connection of the Mohr column

Mora speakers - malfunctions and their elimination

How to clean a Mora water heater

In a private house and apartment, the problem of hot water supply can be solved by installing a gas water heater. Among the advantages of a flow-through boiler: relatively low purchase costs, compactness of the body, high thermal efficiency.Mora flowing gas water heaters (Mora Top) are the optimal solution for providing hot water supply in apartment buildings and private houses. Mora speakers have a simple design, multi-level security system. In the manufacturer's series, hot water boilers are produced that run on batteries and use piezo ignition.Mora water heaters are simple and reliable equipment manufactured by a Czech manufacturer. Despite the absence of any additional functions, Mora columns do a good job with the main task: fast flowing heating of water. Image - DIY top gas water heater repair

The internal structure of Mohr's geysers consists of the following components:

ignition unit (automatic or semi-automatic);
copper heat exchanger;
shut-off and control valves (water pressure sensors, draft);
stainless steel burner;
mechanical control unit.

Due to high-quality assembly, the minimum service life of the Mohr column is 10-12 years. With regular maintenance, the service life will increase to 15-20 years.

The Mora series of gas water heaters comes in two lines, which differ in the principle of operation:

Semi-automatic boilers Mora - two gas burners are installed in the body: the main one and the pilot one. To start the water heater, first, the igniter is ignited using a piezoelectric element. Further, the column works in a fully automatic mode. Piezoelectric ignition reduces the cost of the product by about ⅓.
Mora automatic dispensers - no ignition wick. Electronic ignition with batteries is used. When the DHW tap is opened, a spark is supplied to the main burner, igniting the flame. After disconnecting the water supply point, the gas supply is automatically shut off. The flame is extinguished, the column is turned off.

Automatic speakers are more convenient to use. Disadvantage: dependence on food elements. The batteries last a few months on average.
Semi-automatic models are more reliable. The main disadvantage: the need to light the burner every day.

The table below shows the technical characteristics of Mora speakers, depending on the selected model:

Mora's gas water heater has proven itself well among consumers. Today, gas water heaters are considered one of the most effective, affordable and economical ways to organize heating and hot water supply. The safety and comfort of all residents of the apartment depends on the quality of the gas water heater. Therefore, if the slightest equipment malfunctions occur, they must be eliminated immediately. How the Mora gas water heater works, and how to repair the equipment - read below.

Mora's gas water heater is a flow-through device that allows you to provide hot water to an apartment, a private house and a summer cottage. The column consists of an igniter, a gas burner, a heat exchanger, a gas-water valve block.

The principle of operation of the column is quite simple: when the tap is opened, the igniter ignites the burner, which heats the water in the heat exchanger.

Passing through the tubes of the heat exchanger, the water heats up and enters the heating and hot water supply system. When the tap is closed, the ignition goes out, the column turns off.Different Mora speakers can have a different type of ignition: from a piezoelectric element and from rechargeable batteries (electric). The equipment runs on natural gas, but, if necessary, it can be switched to the mode of using liquefied fuel. Such multifunctionality of the columns is extremely important for the implementation of continuous heating and hot water supply in country houses and dachas that are not connected to the gas main.

Among the advantages of the Mora gas water heater, it is worth noting compactness and economy.

In addition, the advantages of Mohr's columns include:

Multi-stage safety system: the dispensers are equipped with overheating protection, backdraft valves, burner flame and dry start fuses;
High efficiency (about 94%);
High efficiency even at water pressure from 0.2 atm;
Thick copper heat exchanger that will not leak over time;
Sophisticated burner design and ignition protection system from contamination;
Quiet operation.

The disadvantages of the equipment include complaints from users about the lack of parts for Mohr's old equipment in the modern market, and the rather high cost of speakers. Although, the price of the equipment does not exceed the known analogs (such as, for example, Hayes). So, both Heis and Mora will cost the buyer 16 thousand rubles.

The line of wall-mounted Czech speakers Mora Top consists of several models, different in performance. In the floor-standing series, the Mora 100 NTR boiler stands out for quality and efficiency. The most powerful wall-mounted model is considered the Vega 16, capable of passing up to 15.2 liters of water through itself per minute. The most affordable of the Top line is the Vega 10 gas boiler. All models are available in a compact body and differ only in the type of ignition (models marked “E” have electric ignition).

When installing and putting the column into operation, you must follow the following recommendations:

Equipment that has been in a cold environment for a long time should be connected no earlier than after 120 minutes;
When installing the boiler, it is necessary to leave at least 10 cm from its side walls to the nearest objects and adjacent walls;
There must be a distance of 40 cm or more above the boiler;
When installing a thermostat, a device with a potential-free output contact should be used: the thermostat should not supply voltage to the water heater;
It is strictly forbidden to store explosive substances near the boiler.

The installation and operating instructions for the water heater do not recommend connecting the equipment with your own hands. It is better to install a strainer at the entrance to the system. It will allow to extend the term of operation of the membrane and filter of the water intake unit of the column, heat exchanger tubes.

Often, problems with the operation of the column relate to malfunctions in the gas-water unit system. In order, if necessary, to be able to troubleshoot on your own, you need to know how the water part of the column works.

Before you start using a gas water heater, you should study its design.

So, the gas-water block of the column consists of:

Membrane and disc;
Water temperature regulator;
Water supply regulator with open and closed mixer;
Venturi nozzle;
Strainer at the inlet to the unit.

Malfunctions in the unit can arise both under the influence of external factors (for example, due to damage to the speaker case, power cable), and due to wear and tear of equipment. Most often, the incorrect operation of water heating gas equipment is associated with the low quality of tap water, low water and gas pressure, and clogged ventilation pipes.

The most common internal breakdowns of Mohr's gas columns are:

Clogged inlet water filter of the water intake unit;
Deformation or clogging of the membrane of the gas-water unit;
Blockages in the heat exchanger pipes.

In addition, often, the reason for the incorrect operation of the electric column is the discharge of the supply elements (batteries).

If Mohr's column stops igniting, it is necessary to check the equipment for leaks (leaks), external damage (both the case and the power cable). In addition, you should make sure that there is a ventilation draft and a good flow of cold water. In the electric column, you can try to change the batteries.

If you do not have experience in repairing gas water heaters, then in the presence of malfunctions, you need to contact the professionals

If the column does not light up after that, then it is necessary:

Clean the filter and membrane of the water intake block from contamination. To do this, you need to hold the parts under a high pressure of water.
If there are ruptures on the membrane, deformation of its edges, replace the element. At the same time, it is better to replace the old membrane with a silicone one: the service life of the second is longer.
Clean the ignition wick if the column ignites with pops and then immediately goes out.
Replace solenoid valve or servomotor if cleaning the wick does not help.
Clean the ionization sensor electrode if there are ignition sparks, but the column does not light up.

All repair work, in this case, must be carried out with the water and gas supply disconnected. If the column does not turn on after all the manipulations have been carried out, you must contact a specialist.

Mora water heater is a reliable flow-through equipment that can operate on both natural and liquefied fuel. Breakdowns associated with wear of equipment parts, quality of tap water and ventilation draft can disrupt the operation of the gas water heater. Most of the possible malfunctions can be easily eliminated on your own. Use the above recommendations, and you can easily and quickly restore the operation of the water heater! Image - DIY top gas water heater repair

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

open-end wrenches (set);
screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
paronite gaskets (set);
rubber hose;
vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

first, we block the access of cold water;
then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
we open the "hot" tap;
unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.

Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.

This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.

A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation... It usually looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.

In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.

If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.

This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:

Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
Replacing a radiator or taps is quite expensive. Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on your own. For repairs you need:

screwdrivers (cross and regular);
open-end wrenches (set);
solder with rosin;
a vacuum cleaner;
solvent;
"Skin".

Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them. If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.

Preparing the gas water heater for repair

Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
Remove the radiator completely;
Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.

Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.

When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:

clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).

Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.

Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column. All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.

Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
If you notice a gas column leak in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using a wrench (mostly 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.

These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:

a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low gas pressure, which generated a microexplosion;
the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
nozzle blockage;
low draft of ventilation;
the batteries are dead.

On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.

This can happen for several reasons.

The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater... You have saved money and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
The third reason is the usual blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

Video (click to play).

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.

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