DIY selenium gas water heater repair

In detail: DIY selenium gas water heater repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I will step back a little from the topic of audio on our website and make an article on a Chinese speaker, but not an acoustic one, but a gas J, or rather, on its repair. Selena SWH-20-E3. As it turned out, there is not much information on repair on the Internet. Rather, it is, but not the one that would help. The information is suitable for all Chinese speakers, since they are almost the same inside.

So, the malfunctions began. The column did not light up for a long time, sometimes it went out and finally stopped turning on altogether. The batteries were immediately replaced with new ones, but the result is zero.

We begin disassembly. We remove the knobs from the regulators. We unscrew a couple of screws at the top and bottom. Carefully remove the front panel and disconnect the connector that goes to the screen. The speaker will work without a connected display. Before us is the insides.

A little about the principle of work. We open the tap and create pressure, which squeezes out the membrane, and it, in turn, pushes the stem. The stem presses on the micro-toggle switch, which closes the contacts and supplies voltage to the control unit. From the block, the voltage goes to: display (lights up and shows information about the work); relay (opens the gas valve and gas begins to flow to the burners, by the way, the relay does not work from 3 V, which is given by a pair of batteries, but from 4.5 V, constant voltage); sensors (they are connected in series and together in working condition give a short resistance); ignition electrodes (13000 V). In working condition, the column lights up.

In my case, the electronics did not work, none at all. There is one reason for everything. Disassembled almost everything, including the control unit. Power is supplied to the board when the tap is opened, i.e. chain battery-micric-board working. Conclusion - the control unit flew, which stands like the floor of the column. But everything looks good, nothing has burnt anywhere, except that the microcircuits are dead, and there is more than one of them, and even with incomprehensible markings.

Video (click to play).

And then I returned to the Mikrik, one screw of which was a little rusty, but I did not attach much importance to this, and as it turned out later, I was right. When pressed, it is short. But then the truth was revealed. It was short, but not 0 ohms, but more, about 10 ohms, sometimes more. The voltage came to the board, the column was not fully connected, so I could not check its operability, the threshold of operation may be very critical from a voltage of 3 V. I closed the wires that come from the mikrik and lo and behold, the column started working.

Mikrik was disassembled, everything was visually good inside, as expected, most likely due to poor-quality assembly, the internal contacts did not press well and showed 0 Ohm or even more, because of which the column worked intermittently. You can not rush to throw it away, having soldered inside the junction of the legs and the moving contacts themselves.

But I put our micrik. He slightly bent the bar, drilled more holes, covered the joints in the tumbler with silicone and put it on the column. Now everything works well. If anyone finds the article useful, I will be very happy.

A year after the installation of “our mikrik”, the column began to work intermittently, the water pressure must be very strong for the mikrik to work. It was decided to buy a sealed microswitch from Omron. The button in the new switch is much easier to press, and from this the column is ignited at any water pressure. The mikrik itself is hermetically sealed, so he doesn't care about moisture.

Image - DIY selenium gas water heater repair

Image - DIY selenium gas water heater repair

A video that very well explains the essence of the column:

Image - DIY selenium gas water heater repair

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

  • Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
  • Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
  • Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
  • Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
  • When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

  • open-end wrenches (set);
  • screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
  • paronite gaskets (set);
  • rubber hose;
  • vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

  • first, we block the access of cold water;
  • then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
  • remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
  • we open the "hot" tap;
  • unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

  1. The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
  2. The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
  3. To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
  4. If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.

Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it.In this case, it must be replaced.

This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.

A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation... It usually looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.

In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.

If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.

This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:

Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
Replacing a radiator or taps is quite expensive. Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on your own. For repairs you need:

  • screwdrivers (cross and regular);
  • open-end wrenches (set);
  • solder with rosin;
  • a vacuum cleaner;
  • solvent;
  • "Skin".

Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them. If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.

Preparing the gas water heater for repair

  • Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
  • Remove the radiator completely;
  • Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.

Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.

When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:

  • clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
  • using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
  • rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).

Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.

Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column. All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.

Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
If you notice a gas column leak in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using a wrench (mostly 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.

These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:

  • a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low pressure of the gas, which generated a microexplosion;
  • the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
  • nozzle blockage;
  • low draft of ventilation;
  • the batteries are dead.

On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.

This can happen for several reasons.

  • The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater... You have saved and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
  • The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
  • The third reason is a common blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.

Despite the widest range of electrical heating appliances on the market, the gas water heater is still one of the most popular means of heating a house and providing it with hot water. This is a fairly economical option, since it allows you to simultaneously provide several drainage points in the house. Another advantage of gas water heaters can be considered the fact that they allow you to use hot water, practically unlimited, without any restrictions.

The geyser device looks like this.

  • Water flow regulator.
  • Chimney connection.
  • Power control.
  • Heat exchanger.
  • Water node.
  • Exhaust hood.
  • Switch.
  • Rear panel.
  • Diaphragm gas valve.
  • Ignition.
  • Gas unit.

Perhaps you will also be interested in an article about gas heating boilers, read more about them here

Two pipes are connected to the gas column. The first of them is designed for gas supply, the second - for cold water supply. In addition, a pair of burners is located at the bottom, one auxiliary and one main.

Important! The device of the gas column can be different, depending on the method of ignition - it (ignition) can be electronic, manual and using a piezoelectric element.

Image - DIY selenium gas water heater repair

Such devices are designed to provide domestic and industrial facilities with hot water. The essence of their work is quite simple: cold water from the pipeline enters the column heat exchanger, where it is heated by burners (they are located under the heat exchanger). As you know, fire needs oxygen, therefore, so that the burners do not go out, the column is connected to the ventilation system of the house / apartment. The exhaust gas is eliminated by means of a special chimney, which is combined exclusively with a gas water heater.

Read about what to look for when choosing a water heater here

All the described types of columns function somewhat differently.

So, if the device is turned on manually, that is, the gas has to be ignited with matches, the burner will ignite from the fact that you turn the fuel supply valve. Although it is worth noting that such designs have become outdated a long time ago. Modern designs are equipped with either an electronic ignition or a piezoelectric element.

New models are activated at the touch of a button located on the front panel of the device. Piezo ignition creates a spark that ignites the pilot. In the future, everything happens in automatic mode - the tap opens, the column lights up, hot water begins to flow.

If the gas water heater is fired up electronically, then it is perhaps the most reliable and durable device. The system is turned on by means of a pair of batteries supplying the charge necessary for the formation of a spark. No buttons, no matches, the only thing you need to do to turn it on is to turn on the tap. In most cases, batteries last a very long time because the energy required to charge is minimal.

How to calculate gas consumption for heating a house - read here

The use of gas water heaters, however, like any other equipment, is accompanied by malfunctions, frequent or rare.At the same time, there are such malfunctions that can only be eliminated by specialists who have the necessary knowledge and admission for this. But there are those that can be easily eliminated with your own hands, so we will consider them.

Video - sensor malfunction