DIY gas train repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gas train repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Date: 2012-05-14
Article views: 19268

During the operation of distributed gas injection systems, natural wear of the working elements of the gas injectors occurs. In "average" operating conditions and gas filling of proper quality, the first repair of the injectors may not be required earlier than 50,000 km. mileage. Most manufacturers provide an opportunity to repair injectors by releasing repair kits containing rubber damping rings, plunger inserts, plungers themselves and springs.

Replacing the elements is not particularly difficult, the main difficulty is to correctly adjust the amount of lift of the plunger during the operation of the injectors and to assess the uniformity of the gas supply to each cylinder (balance of the injectors), and this is difficult without special devices.

In this note, we will briefly consider the repair and adjustment of the RAIL TYPE 30 BFC rail

We disassemble the ramp and clean the inner surface of the cylinders of each nozzle from resinous deposits.

We replace the plunger, spring and O-ring and assemble the injector ramp. Using a micrometer, adjust the plunger lift to the same value for each nozzle by turning the adjusting screw on the top of the nozzle cylinder.

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Adjusting the lifting height of the plunger

Now you need to check the cylinder balance. We connect the ramp to the injector test stand, which allows us to visually assess the amount of gas passing through each injector during the test. The first screenshot shows an unbalanced ramp. In this case, during operation, different amounts of gas will be supplied to the cylinders, which will naturally affect the uniformity of the engine operation. In screenshot 2, we see the indicators of a correctly adjusted ramp - in this case, the discrepancies are negligible and the engine runs smoothly.

Video (click to play).

It should be noted that it is not always possible to solve the problem by replacing the injector repair kit. After a significant mileage, the working edge of the nozzle seat is worn out (the contact patch in the rubber insert-aluminum seat pair increases) and in this case the entire ramp has to be changed.

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Ramp with worn out saddles

After some time valves started to work loudly, while the engine worked fine, flawlessly. But a few days ago, when switching to gas, the engine began to triple, and the ChecK Engine caught fire... At the same time, the engine runs flawlessly on gasoline. It follows from this that all the blame for HBO, namely the injector valve.

One of the nozzles clicked very loudly... By disconnecting the coil, it became clear which cylinder was not working. In order not to contact the masters and not pay, I decided to repair the valves of the LPG gas injectors with my own hands.

To do this, first I had to disassemble the injector valve... At the same time, it turned out that the locking elastic band located on the core was intact, but damper ring worn out, which led to the fact that the core was constantly knocking with metal on metal. On the rest of the valves, the damper rings were in order, only on the inoperative cylinder the ring was worn out. After that I decided to replace the damper ring, in the hope that it would help. Rem. the kit costs about 120 rubles, but we managed to find it directly damper rings 5 ​​rubles apiece... After the purchase, I replaced the ring on the inoperative valve, started the car, switched to gas - everything works perfectly, there is no clanking sound, the engine does not troit.

It's obvious that a worn out damper ring directly affected the quality of the core rebound, and as a result, the electronics turned off the valve that was not working correctly... In my case, the gas train served 37.5 thousand km without repair.

This is how the HBO injector valve was repaired with our own hands.

This material was taken from one of the specialized forums, its reliability has not been confirmed.

Hello. I am glad to welcome you to the site about the gas-cylinder equipment GBOshnik. Today we'll talk about gas injectors, about how at home clean the gas injectors, and also how adjust the LPG nozzles with your own hands, using a micrometer.

Everyone knows that not only gasoline and diesel fuel are “badyazh” in our country. A long time ago, gas filling stations learned to “inflate” our brother, and not with gas, but with air, mixing various muck into the gas fuel, which adversely affects the state of the gas equipment and the entire engine as a whole.

So once it was noticed that the engine is unstable on gas, when switching to gas, the engine stalled, and there was simply no idle. Among other things, the dynamics worsened, traction disappeared, gas consumption increased and dips appeared during acceleration. Moreover, the above-described "glitches" were manifested, as a rule, "on cold". After some time after the engine warmed up to the optimum temperature, all these “sores” practically disappeared.

The problem did not allow to live and drive any car. Having rummaged through the Internet, I found similar cases, as well as reviews of those who “won” this problem. Suspicion fell on the filter (how to change filters and drain condensate is written here and here), as well as gas injectors. The filters were replaced, by the way, during the replacement, a large amount of resin was found in the filter elements, this alerted and made me think. If there are so many “kaki” in the filters, then what is in the gas injectors? The decision was made - it is necessary to clean the gas injectors, as well as their further calibration. What came of this - read on.

1. The first step is to shut off the gas supply, for this we twist one or two valves on the gas cylinder.

2. We start the car and let it work in order to relieve the pressure in the gas lines and use up the remaining gas.

3. We dismantle the gas rail with nozzles. For everyone, this process will take place in its own way, it all depends on the brand of injectors and the type of engine.

4. Next, using a screwdriver, unscrew the screws and take out the gas nozzles.

5. Remove the rods from the nozzle body. The photo shows the reason for all my troubles - resinous deposits, they even did not allow the nozzles to function fully. When the engine is cold and the injectors are cold, the viscous resin interfered with the proper stroke of the gas injector stem.

6. Using cotton swabs and alcohol (you can also use a solvent), wipe the stems, as well as what is inside the bodies.Image - DIY gas train repair

7. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

1. Unscrew the jets from the ramp.

2. We take out the corresponding power plug.

3. Instead of a jet, we install a special adapter into which a micrometer will be installed.

4. Next, set the micrometer, look at the arrow, if it starts to move, then the armature has come into contact with the micrometer rod.

5. Install the plug into the gas injector coil.

6. We knock down the micrometer readings to zero.

7. Apply 12V power to the coil for 1 second or less.

8. We write down the value shown by the device.

It so happens that the resource of one or several gas injectors is coming to an end. This is manifested in the fact that the machine, when operating on a gas mixture, begins to triple, there is a loss of power, unstable engine operation and a characteristic "clatter" of one or more gas injectors. It is this "clatter" that appears after the wear of the O-rings and rubber bands on the rods and means that it is time to repair the gas injectors.

Repair of VALTEK gas injectors implies several simple steps, namely:

  • removing the ramp from the car;
  • disassembly of the ramp and all its components;
  • replacement of rods, springs and rubber rings with new ones from rem. kit;
  • subsequent assembly of injectors and their adjustment;
  • installing the ramp back to the vehicle.

First of all, to remove the ramp from the car, you should shut off the gas supply to the LPG main by shutting off the flow valve on the gas cylinder.

  • To exhaust all the gas from the main, for this, with the valve closed, start the car and wait for the switch to gasoline, then forcibly switch the system to gas operation two or three more times.
  • Before disconnecting the wires and removing the ramp, it is imperative to outline which wire belonged to which of the gas coils. This can be done with a marker or colored tape. When assembling, you must accurately determine the belonging of the wire to this or that coil.
  • Unscrew the fasteners and remove the ramp. When unscrewing the clamps, you will hear the release of gas residues - this is a normal situation.
  • Unscrew the calibration jets with a 12 key.
  • Remove the corkscrews by folding them neatly so as not to get lost. Remove the coils. If you made notes with a marker on the coils, mark which coil was in what place so that you do not confuse them during assembly. If you made notes on the ramp itself, the order of installing the coils can be disregarded.
  • Using a 14 wrench, unscrew the guides and carefully remove them. If one rod is replaced, during disassembly, it is imperative to designate a pair of rod - seat, so that they do not mix up during assembly. If all parts are replaced, then the order may not be followed. Remove the rods and springs from the guide.
  • Carry out a visual inspection of the rods and rubber bands to determine if a repair kit should be used or not. If the rubber band is completely worn out, metal-to-metal contact occurs, resulting in a characteristic "clatter" sound.
  • If the rod itself has a satisfactory appearance, you can replace only the rubber band and the spring (also in case of wear), for this, remove the old rubber band from the rod with a sharp object (awl) and put a new one in its place. If the mileage of the injectors is significant, the stem should also be replaced.
  • Carefully inspect and replace worn parts with new ones on all injectors, and then reassemble the ramp in the reverse order.

Read how to do it yourself here!

The repair of the gas injectors has been completed. If you have any questions about the repair process, ask them in the comments to the article and we will be happy to answer them.

The operation of autonomous household equipment, the principle of which involves the use of natural gas, can be made more rational. For example, it is more convenient to operate gas boilers of a home heating system if there is a gas train for cylinders - a collector line, where several vessels with gas are connected at once.

The design of the ramp provides the functions necessary for the reliable operation of gas equipment.

Direct connection from a gas cylinder to the same hot water boiler is often accompanied by disadvantages, which can be expressed, for example, in the form of pressure drops. These conditions have a negative effect on the operation of the gas burner. As a result, there is an unstable boiler operation, interruptions in the supply of hot water, etc.

It is for pressure stabilization in the first place that it is recommended to use a ramp for gas cylinders, which can be made by hand.

However, in general, the device provides the user with a number of operational advantages:

  • safety of work in case of possible leaks;
  • providing equipment with stable working pressure;
  • getting rid of gas cylinders from the "freezing" effect;
  • the ability to significantly reduce the frequency of calls to the gas refueling service.

The technological scheme of the gas train can provide for a manifold device for connecting both a small number of vessels and for the use of more than a dozen cylinders.

For domestic use, gas trains are most often made for two or four cylinders.

The manifold design is a conventional pipeline equipped with a gas shut-off valve, endowed with additional elements:

  • gas distribution fittings;
  • pressure control devices;
  • gas flow filter;
  • outlet pipelines (high pressure hoses).

Gas distribution valves are, as a rule, valves with an electromagnetic drive, but such valves are rarely installed in household circuits. Electric valves are used to switch all individual lines that form a manifold group, connect or disconnect individual cylinders.

The group of pressure control and regulation devices consists of classic devices - pressure gauges and gas reducers. The filter is also used as standard - for gas systems.

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The assembly diagram of a simple classic ramp for gas cylinders is built as follows:

  1. A distribution manifold is created from a metal pipe.
  2. A filter is mounted at the collector inlet.
  3. A gearbox is installed after the filter.
  4. Further along the manifold, installation of fittings for outlets to the cylinders.

Industrial designs are usually supplemented with a leakage control device. Its main purpose is to monitor and close / open solenoid valves.

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Meanwhile, ramps supplying gas to equipment with a capacity of less than 1 kW can be built without a tightness control module. It is such equipment that is used in most cases in relation to the household sector.

Ramps are allowed to be installed inside separate (one-story) premises. It is also permitted and recommended to install gas ramps for 2 cylinders, 4 cylinders or more, using metal cabinets for this. If a system is arranged that involves technologically connecting no more than 40 cylinders, such ramps can be placed inside annexes to production or utility rooms.

The bypass ramp, designed for the connection and installation of no more than 6 gas cylinders, can be mounted directly inside the utility and industrial premises of the first floor. In this case, the volume of gas for each container should not exceed the value - 100 m 3. For the household sector, the conditions are somewhat different.

It should be remembered that gas ramps for 2 cylinders or more are allowed to be placed outside the boundaries of household premises, in places reliably protected from sources of open flame, heat, including solar radiation. The place of installation should be chosen far from basements and technical communications. The structure of the gas train must be protected against possible break-ins, mechanical impacts, etc.

It is not difficult to make a structure for storage and operation of gas cylinders. For DIY assembly you will need:

  1. Steel sheet 2-3 mm thick.
  2. Steel corner # 45 or profile tube 40 x 25 mm.
  3. Metal pipe for the manifold (length is selected according to the number of cylinders).
  4. Fine metal chain for securing the cylinders.

In addition to this material support, the skills of a welder, locksmith, tools and equipment (welding machine) will be required. However, welding works can be performed on request.

Initially, it is necessary to determine the number of gas cylinders that will be installed in the ramp. For example, 3 cylinders. Based on the value of the size of the diameter of the cylinders, the initial size of the width of the ramp structure is obtained and increased by 150-200 mm. The size of the height will be determined taking into account the height of the gas cylinders, plus 150-200 mm to the horizon of the collector installation.

Based on these calculations, a support frame is made from a steel angle or a profile pipe.The support frame can be assembled by welding or a mechanical method of fastening the corners (pipes) with a bolt connection can be used. The assembled frame has the shape of the letter "P". Further, brackets for the collector are placed on the upper crosspiece of the frame and the frame is fixed to the rear wall inside a metal box, pre-made from steel sheets.

Now it's up to the manufacture of the collector, its installation and addition with all the necessary accessories. The metal pipe (d = 32-50 mm) is measured along a length equal to the length of the jumper of the support frame and points for the fittings are marked on the pipe body (3 pcs).

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Bends for fittings are carefully welded into the pipe body and these parts are installed together with valves. At one end of the pipe, a plug is placed, at the second there is a fitting for connecting a reducer. After the completion of these works, the collector is laid on the brackets previously mounted on the upper side of the support frame lintel.

The installation of the manifold should be carried out taking into account the indentation above the level of the cylinder valves by 150-170 mm. The collector should be positioned as accurately as possible horizontally and secured with clamps on the brackets, placing gaskets made of sheet technical rubber under the hoops of the clamps. Then you need to install a gas reducer equipped with a filter on the open end of the manifold and complete with a shut-off valve.

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The next step is to make cylinder liners. They can and desirably be made from copper tubing in order to obtain the expansion compensation effect. However, the use of high pressure hoses is also allowed. The supply lines are screwed to the manifold valves at one end, while the other end of the tube will be connected to the cylinder valves.

At the end of the process of assembling the ramp for gas cylinders with their own hands on the racks of the support frame, at a distance of 2/3 of the height of the cylinders, a chain shutter is made. To do this, perform the following actions:

  1. Take a metal chain.
  2. Measured by the length of the grip of the cylinders.
  3. The resulting section of the chain is cut and fastened with one end to the frame post.

The other end of the metal chain remains free. It will be secured with a locking device to the second post after the gas cylinders are loaded into the ramp. Of course, it is not at all necessary to use a metal chain as a retainer. You can use other suitable, but always reliable fasteners.

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At the last stage of work, the gas pipe is brought from the consumers to the collector reducer. Technically, it only remains to load gas cylinders onto the ramp, connect them with branch pipes (hoses) to the manifold and that's it - the device is ready for stable gas supply to household equipment.

But there are still some details of the installation. It is necessary to equip the doors of the steel cabinet where the ramp is installed. In the future, when the system will be used, it is necessary to equip the drawer doors with a reliable lock and restrict access to it for children.

Before starting the system, it is recommended to purge the gas line from the consumer point to the point of its connection to the manifold reducer. After purging, the line is connected to the inlet connection of the gearbox. Then the following actions are sequentially performed:

  1. 3 cylinders with propane are loaded onto the ramp.
  2. Secure the balloons with a safety chain.
  3. Outlet compensation tubes are connected to the valves of the cylinders.
  4. Open the valves on the manifold and on the cylinders.
  5. Check the tightness of all connections.
  6. The required value of the working pressure is set by the regulator of the reducer.

When the time comes to replace the empty gas cylinders with filled vessels, simply close the valves on the vessels and on the manifold for a quick and safe replacement.

It is recommended to periodically check the system for leaks. This work should be done at least once a quarter. Actually, such a service schedule is prescribed by the rules and requirements from among those that apply in the gas sector.

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It should be remembered: structures such as gas ramps may only be serviced by persons who have passed the appropriate technical minimum. Devices of this type must be kept clean.

It is strictly forbidden to store technical oils and liquids, flammable components near the ramp. Naturally, smoking or working with a fire on an active ramp is unacceptable.

How the gas cylinders are combined using a ramp: