Repair of gas boilers do-it-yourself signal instruction
In detail: do-it-yourself signal gas boiler repair instructions from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The gas burner control unit of the KOV-ST “Signal” boiler has stopped responding to a turn of the control knob of the gas burner device. Naturally, he made a request to call the masters of Sakhatransneftegazsbyt. Having examined the boiler, the masters came up with the verdict: the gas burner control unit is out of order, therefore it is necessary to find this unit or buy a new boiler. In the city, no one sells such boilers, therefore the spare parts are the same.
I looked at the marking of the gas burner adjustment unit on the boiler, it says BRGG-2EN. I found this block on the Internet and ordered
Ten days later I received an order for the BRGG-2EN. When they wanted to install it, the unit turns out to be not the one installed in the boiler, it has a different type of thermocylinder. A study on the Internet showed that I have a block of a sample before 2006 and is called BRGG-1E, i.e. at the factory, the marking was written by mistake of a block of a new sample.
In my boiler, the thermal bulb is installed in a pipe, which is closed with a union nut. And the resulting block is a new-sample thermal cylinder, as they say on the Internet, is fixed with a clamp.
I had to look for the causes of the malfunction in the old control unit. They removed the control knob for the mode of the gas burner device from the old and new units and compared the stroke of the pusher. The moves of the pushers are the same, which means they are in good order. By unscrewing 4 screws from both blocks, the gauge units were opened. The new block has a simpler gauge unit than the old gauge unit. On the old gauge assembly, the assembly of the assembly is more complicated. There are two disks with a complex configuration. One disc is thin concave of non-ferrous metal with 4 holes and a protrusion in the middle, and the other is thicker with a hole in the middle on one side with a conical notch. After discussing the gas flow, we changed the relative position of the two discs and assembled the unit. To our surprise, when the boiler was started, the control knob for the mode of the gas burner device started working and began to increase the gas supply.
Video (click to play).
Many malfunctions of a gas boiler can be eliminated with your own hands, without resorting to expensive services of the gas service or no less expensive private specialists for the maintenance and adjustment of gas equipment. The only rule that we will immediately make a reservation about is that you need to understand what you are doing and for what purpose.
Seasonal maintenance of a gas boiler consists in cleaning it from contamination and checking its functionality. To access the boiler elements, it is necessary to dismantle the casing or casing. To do this, we decide on the method of its fastening, for different models of boilers this can be done in different ways. Most often these are several self-tapping screws and several latches in the upper part of the casing.
Having gained access to the internal parts of the boiler, we do not remove anything else when performing seasonal maintenance. Using a soft metal brush, a toothbrush and fine-grained sandpaper, we proceed to remove carbon deposits from all parts of the boiler:
heat exchanger;
burners;
igniter, if available.
We use the aforementioned tool wherever it is convenient, without especially leaning on the brush for metal. Next, blow out the collected dust with a compressor. You can use a rubber tube or a medical dropper tube by simply blowing into it and guiding the other end into the boiler.
Important! Any work on the boiler is carried out with the gas valve closed.
Using a thin awl or a strong needle, you need to clean all the holes on the burner and igniter, and then, after cleaning them again, for example, with a toothbrush, blow again.If there are overhead sensors, the places where they fit to the parts of the boiler should be lightly cleaned with emery paper and then wiped with a soft woolen cloth.
The ignition and flame control electrodes are well cleaned only with a woolen cloth, without the use of cleaning agents. If there are immersion temperature sensors, it is necessary to remove them from the sleeves, select the liquid present there from the sleeve, thoroughly clean the sleeve inside using a small metal brush or a loose piece of steel cable of a suitable size. After rough cleaning, the sleeve is cleaned with a cloth wound on a screwdriver, then the sleeve is filled two-thirds with machine oil and the sensor is installed.
After completing these works, the boiler is thoroughly vacuumed. In accessible places, dust and dirt are cleaned with a damp cloth. We put the trim in place. We check the presence of draft in the chimney by attaching a sheet the size of a notebook to the chimney opening, or by throwing a stream of smoke into the ignition ignition hole, the gas valve at the lowering to the boiler must be closed.
We check the seals and possible gas leaks using the soaping method. In the presence of normal draft, a test run of the boiler is carried out, which must be filled with a coolant. In parallel with the work on cleaning the boiler, it is visually inspected for mechanical damage and coolant leaks. At this point, the seasonal service can be considered complete.
It is produced with a solution of hydrochloric acid, purchased in the trade network and designed specifically for this purpose. Cleaning is carried out for the main heat exchangers of wall-mounted gas boilers and heat exchangers for hot water preparation. The channel cross-section of such heat exchangers is small, which is why they are susceptible to contamination with salt deposits.
Cleaning of the water jacket of floor-standing gas boilers, as a rule, is not performed. The heat exchanger must be removed for cleaning. To do this, remove the boiler casing, unscrew the supply pipes to the heat exchanger, after draining the water from the boiler.
We take out the heat exchanger from the boiler. Wear rubber gloves and use a plastic container to collect the used acid. The method is not complicated. Carefully pour the acid solution inside the heat exchanger until it is completely filled. In the event that the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, active foam will be released. Let us leave the heat exchanger for 10-15 minutes.
We drain the spent acid into a container and re-fill the heat exchanger with a new portion. We are waiting for the same ten minutes. We drain the solution and rinse the heat exchanger with running water. We put on a piece of hose on the nearest water tap and spill the heat exchanger with water. Let's fill the heat exchanger with the acid solution again. If there is no active foam generation, and when the heat exchanger is spilled with water, no significant resistance to the flow is visible, then the heat exchanger is flushed and you can reinstall it in the reverse order.
The method of cleaning the burner from carbon deposits has already been described above. However, with strong soot, it is not always possible to cope with only mechanical cleaning. For such cases, special chemicals are used. It makes no sense to recommend anything, all tools are quite effective. The cleaning method boils down to applying the agent in the form of a solution to the surface to be cleaned, holding it for a certain time and then removing the exfoliated carbon deposits, usually mechanically. In more detail, you must familiarize yourself with the cleaning method by one means or another when purchasing it.
In especially difficult cases, for example, when a heat carrier gets on the burner, it must be completely removed from the boiler, immersed in a cleaning solution for several hours. Then remove the burner, ignite in the flame of a portable gas burner. After another application of the solution, using a metal brush or a brush, remove the remaining carbon deposits.
The flue gas duct is checked using a mirror. We introduce the mirror into the channel at a slight angle. In the mirror, we should see a light at the end of the chimney. When performing this operation, it is convenient to use the so-called selfie stick, with a mirror attached to it.
To eliminate the leak, it is necessary to unpack the connection, clean the threads from the old tow and paint. Then, using FUM tape, thread sealing or thread lock, seal the connection again. Check the quality of work by filling the pipeline and the boiler with water.
All accessible areas of gas leaks must be washed with a soap solution or a special gas leak checker. The solution for soaping is prepared from laundry soap by shaving it into a container with warm water and stirring until a thick foam is obtained. If gas leaks, a soap bubble will blow out on the foam. The leak can be repaired in the same way as the water leak through the threaded connections.
Replacing a gas boiler burner will require more attention and care. The purchase of a new burner should be exactly the same model as the one installed on your boiler. Never install a burner not designed for your boiler model.
The beginning is the same - we remove the boiler casing. Having gained access to the burner, we carefully inspect the tubes and sensors connected to the burner. Their location should be remembered so that when assembling a new burner you do not confuse which one to connect to.
How to remove a gas burner. 1. Fixing the burner to the combustion chamber housing. 2. Wires for electrode igniter and flame sensor. 3. A branch pipe for supplying a gas-air mixture
Due to the wide variety of boiler models, it is impossible to give specific recommendations, but in any case, there will be:
a tube for supplying gas to the burner;
gas pressure sensor to the burner;
gas valve.
It is possible that there is a control tube from the draft sensor or electrical connection (wires) from the same draft sensor or temperature sensor. When using a burner of the same model as yours, remembering and connecting all the wires and tubes will not be difficult.
Replacing a horn burner installed in a wood-burning stove is even easier to cope with. We unscrew the screws of its fastening to the plate and two tubes: gas supply and gas supply to the igniter. We take out the old burner, insert a new one, screw on the tubes, tighten the burner mounting bolts.
It is not worth repairing the primitive automation of such a burner, the result may lead to unsafe operation of the boiler. The most difficult thing is to replace the burner of a wall-mounted gas boiler, stuffed with electronics and a large number of sensors. But do not panic here, the principle is the same: it is good to remember the location of all connections to the burner.
Trying to increase their importance, gas specialists say that such a burner should be "tied" to the boiler by flashing the electronic unit or by adjusting the boiler. The burner is just iron, which cannot be adjusted in any way. The settings may require combustion as such, but this is no longer relevant to the replacement of the burner itself. If the burner is made for the model of the boiler on which it is installed, then the combustion will be correct, however, provided that they did not try to regulate it on the old burner.
The need to replace the temperature sensor arises when, when setting a specific temperature mode of operation, the boiler either does not comply with it, or, even worse, goes into boiling mode, which can lead to rupture of the water jacket of the boiler or its heat exchanger.
Temperature sensors, according to the method of installation in the boiler, can be overhead and submersible. Clamp-on sensors are installed on the boiler pipes with clips that press the sensor against this pipe. Replacing them is very simple. Disconnect the old one - put the new one. We put the chip (electrical contact) in place of the old one.
Immersion sensors can be of two types: direct immersion and located in a well filled with oil. When replacing the first, it is necessary to drain the water from the boiler, unscrew the sensor. Pay attention to how the threads were sealed at the sensor mount. This can be simply a tapered thread, using a thread lock (adhesive), gaskets, or O-rings. Sealing with flax and other materials is not used. Install a new sensor using the same sealing method.
When replacing the sensors installed in the sleeves, there is no need to drain the water from the boiler. After loosening the fixing nut, pull out the sensor, check for the presence of oil in the sleeve, install a new sensor, fixing it with a nut. The simplest version of such a sensor is an alcohol thermometer installed in the sleeve for visual monitoring of the temperature in the boiler.
A modern gas boiler is a complex device consisting of both mechanical elements and electronic equipment. Therefore, not in all cases can you figure out how to repair a gas boiler yourself.
However, if an element that is not directly related to the gas supply breaks down, then with minimal skills, it is possible to eliminate the malfunction without calling a specialist. How to do this is described in detail in the article.
A typical gas boiler consists of many elements, which can basically be grouped into 3 groups:
Burner.
Blocks providing safety.
A heat exchange unit equipped with several additional devices, which include a fan, a circulation pump and many others.
The structure of this mechanism can be simplified as follows.
But if you detail the picture, you can find about 2 dozen different elements in the device.
The main danger during repairs is a possible gas leak. This can happen due to improper repair, dismantling or installation of equipment that is associated with the fuel supply.
Therefore, it is better to entrust the repair of these parts of the structure to a specialist. Also, do not troubleshoot the electronic equipment of gas boilers on your own. Automation is a specific device, therefore, without appropriate qualifications, it is almost impossible to correctly carry out restoration work and repair such equipment yourself.
All other elements can be repaired by yourself, for example:
Heat exchanger flushing performed manually (for this, the unit is dismantled, after which it must be correctly put in place). It is possible to carry out these works without dismantling - using pumps.
Chimney cleaning will be needed in cases where there is a problem with traction (mechanical or chemical removal of blockages is performed).
Fan repair pressurization by lubricating its bearings with technical oil.
In fact, it is possible to repair a gas boiler on your own only in those cases when it comes to mechanical damage or blockages that can be easily identified visually (or by smell).
The rest of the breakdowns are considered more serious, therefore they are eliminated with the help of a specialist, and not with your own hands.
Before figuring out how to repair a gas boiler with your own hands, it is useful to understand exactly why malfunctions occur. Correct understanding of the reasons will help to avoid the problem in the future. Practice shows that 4 harmful factors are most often affected:
Electricity drops - this problem is especially relevant in remote settlements and villages. Modern equipment is necessarily equipped with stabilizers, as well as energy storage devices, which ensure the operation of the device for a short time even after the source is turned off. Therefore, if there are no such devices, you should purchase them in advance.
Poor quality water - this problem arises in cases where the equipment is used not only for heating, but also for obtaining hot water for domestic purposes (double-circuit gas boiler). The equipment is not damaged by the water itself, but by the presence of salts in it, which increase the hardness. If the concentration of these insoluble substances is high enough, it can lead to equipment wear in as little as 1-2 seasons. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the installation of filters that purify water.
Installation errors can lead to rather serious consequences, including fatal breakdowns, failure of all equipment. Therefore, this work can only be entrusted to qualified specialists.
Finally, a role can also be played by frosty winters... Usually, during such a period, the neighbors turn on the equipment at full capacity, and in this mode it works for a long time. As a result, the pressure in the gas pipeline system drops significantly, and the boilers begin to work largely in vain. At this point, you can use equipment that runs on a different fuel (for example, diesel). It makes sense to purchase it if the region has long, harsh winters.
If you are not sure what is faulty, it is strictly forbidden to start repairing the gas boiler yourself, since this carries a potential danger. Correct diagnostics is the most important requirement for work, especially if they are carried out independently.
In modern devices, breakdowns are diagnosed by electronic systems (sensors) that show the temperature and other important indicators. If a serious malfunction is detected, the system simply turns off the gas boiler in order to avoid unwanted, dangerous consequences.
In other cases, it is possible to detect a breakdown on your own only with the help of the senses:
visually;
by smell (gas leak);
by the sound of the equipment;
to the touch.
First of all, you need to refer to the instructions. Even if the original version is lost, it can be easily restored by downloading the desired brochure from open Internet sources. Almost all instructions have a section and cards describing the most common malfunctions, as well as ways to diagnose and eliminate them.
Such short tutorials describe in detail what signals the automatic display system gives in case of certain malfunctions:
blinking of lamps in a certain mode (fast, slow) and in a certain color (red, yellow, green);
continuous burning of a light bulb;
the display shows a specific error code (usually a two-digit number).
Even if repairedon one's ownthe gas boiler does not work, you still need to print the instructions specifically for this model. A specialist called at home should also familiarize himself with the features of the mechanism, including with the help of a brochure from the manufacturer.
The most common breakdowns of a gas boiler are described in the table.
Any gas equipment (including boilers) belongs to high-risk household appliances. The mixture of natural gas and air is extremely explosive. Therefore, the repair of gas boilers with their own hands can only be carried out by a specialist who has experience of this kind of work and is well acquainted with the design features of modern heating boilers. At the same time, timely diagnostics of possible malfunctions of such equipment makes it possible to facilitate the task of the gas service specialists called for urgent repairs, and extends the period of reliable operation of the boiler itself.
poor ventilation of the room;
unsatisfactory traction.
Unlit natural gas can be sucked into the room from under the upper housing cover. An explosion can also occur as a result of a gradual increase in concentration.