DIY gas stop repair

In detail: DIY repair of gas stops from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In the open spaces of the forum, there are different ways to relieve pressure from the rack before disassembling, but there is not a single detailed one. Write who does it and how, in detail, so to speak "competitively", so that later it would not be offensive for the newly made repair, or even worse - a damaged eye.

Fine drill bit and drill at low speeds. True, I disassembled a shrunken gas strut. Other things, the GP from the office chair understood the same way.
Drilled so that the future hole would be located above the oil level

If you are afraid for the eyes, put on a protective screen cut out of cardboard on the drill. However, I drilled without everything and there was nothing but zilch.

A Th to be wise then? Drilled - pricked with a needle. Not pierced - I drilled yet. Drill 1-1.5 mm. I used to drill with a 0.25 bit, but it's hard not to break it

... It is drilled where it will be cut off.
And so, my grandfather sawed such a rack on the balcony, with a file in a circle. Then he told how someone with a rifle jumped at him and showed a bruise

... Well at least he said what he was doing, otherwise I would have believed.

Where is the sealing ring on the stem plug? I ask you about the need to keep the maximum pipe length. Where to drill?
Here are two pictures:

quote: Originally posted by Fake:

Drilled so that the future hole would be located above the oil level

By the way, how much of this oil is there, what to prepare for?

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:

By the way, how much of this oil is there, what to prepare for?

I honestly don't remember. I drilled the rack already flowing, there was a little oil in it, a maximum of a cube. You let her lie down in a horizontal position, so that the oil from the top wall of the glass to the maximum. As the air bleeds off, the oil will no longer flow, it will only ooze.
Cover the pipe with rags if you are afraid to get something dirty, but I don't think they will come in handy.
I won't tell you the place of drilling - I drilled in the middle, I just wondered what was inside

Video (click to play).

quote: Originally posted by Fake:

You let her lie down in a horizontal position, so that the oil from the top wall of the glass to the maximum.

I don’t understand why horizontally and not vertically? Up that end where you will drill, the oil will drain down, then clamp it vertically in a vice as well, and hold the drill horizontally while drilling. Or is it somehow related to the design feature of the rack? What's in the gut in general? As far as I understand, its design is similar to gas. spring for PPP, or not?

Yes, they drilled her J. ny and the whole business

... Butter there is no more than a couple of cubes. Do not be afraid of it while you drill it will all flow down

... The hole will definitely not have it.

quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:

Yes, they drilled her J. ny and the whole business

Is Zh. Pa made of the same thin sheet, or is the "sleeve" welded there? If there is a sleeve, then with a 1mm drill, drill for. Xia

Judging by the photo - the rack is pulled, from a round penny, like a 12 g can. It means that it is a little thicker than the walls, but not by much.

Drilled. it turned out “the devil is not so terrible. "

The drill was really stupid, did not sharpen, drilled somewhere for about 3 minutes, and watched a movie on TV in parallel

, when "pshiknulo" did not even have time to get scared - I was distracted. By the way, "pshik" looks like if you hold the fitting of an automobile pump with your finger, swing and release the fitting, that is, the sound is quite quiet and nothing is splattered with oil.
If anyone is interested, after a complete disassembly I will post a photo of the giblets, if not, I'll crash Temko.

this shrunken post (it was easily pushed through) was bled off by a dirty but safe method - the rod in the place under the number “1” was ground off on emery, then it was pressed against the floor with the rod and pressed down.blew naturally down the machined rod along with oil =) well, it was all done in the garage in old rags. the next one was disassembled by FILLING it with a hacksaw in the place under the number “2”. sawing the current at one point (and not in a circle.) Or, it is even easier to drill with a thin 1mm drill. how it hissed - we don’t get scared and don’t throw (if in a vice, then you can cover it with a rag and step aside. =)

be sure to use safety glasses.

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:

By the way, "pshik" looks like if you hold the fitting of an automobile pump with your finger, swing and release the fitting,

But how it hisses if you drill with a 0.25 drill

quote: Originally posted by REACT:

here is this shrunken rack (easily pushed through)

Her, mine was pressed only if I put one end on the floor, and press on the other with almost my whole body, and my body is not small, over a hundred

... quote: Originally posted by REACT:

the stock at number “1” is ground on emery,

This method never crossed my mind. but if I did, I wouldn't do that - it's a pity for the stock

.
quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:

But how it hisses if you drill with a 0.25 drill.

I drilled with a 1.5mm drill.

quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:

Butter there is no more than a couple of cubes.

Not a fig, "a couple of cubes", there are all 7-8, if not properly disassembled, all this will fly into physics, and even under pressure.

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:

Not a fig, "a couple of cubes", there are all 7-8, if not properly disassembled, all this will fly into physics, and even under pressure.

I analyzed the new Finwhals and the old Soviet ones - there wasn’t so much oil there.

At one time, it was drilled into a hairpin along its axis. A small puff and a drop of oil. Everything!

Above promised giblets photos:

But I think from different types and manufacturers, and the giblets will be slightly different.

disassembled, making a cut, like REACT, from the first to the ceiling of the workshop gave a not weak fountain of oil in an aerosol state, so the second rack sawed, wrap the sawing site with a rag (both racks were shrunk)

DENI-KIN And what is the wall thickness?

Internal D 16.1 (2) mm., Wall 1.6 (7) mm., But from the outside it is painted, so you can safely take away a couple of dozen.

It will not be enough

I thought it would be thicker.

Well, it depends on what for

, for example: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/644/topic/30/453780.html
The main thing is that the pipe is solid-drawn, made of rather viscous but good metal, and also - it is polished inside like a cat's.

, and is suitable for many of our purposes. Vitaly, you shouldn't doubt its durability, when you sawed off the ass with a hacksaw, I thought the canvas was bald, but the canvas is practically new, and even when you take it in your hands, you feel it is a thing

, there is something in it. the reliability is directly felt.

quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:
Well, it depends on what for , for example: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/644/topic/30/453780.html
The main thing is that the pipe is solid-drawn, made of rather viscous but good metal, and also - it is polished inside like a cat's. , and is suitable for many of our purposes. Vitaly, you shouldn't doubt its durability, when you sawed off the ass with a hacksaw, I thought the canvas was bald, but the canvas is practically new, and even when you take it in your hands, you feel it is a thing , there is something in it. the reliability is directly felt.

Viscous means soft, the ear will stretch. Konstantin just talked about this, that metal drags on.

quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:

Konstantin just talked about this, that metal drags on.

Well, there are how many points it was (if about a link). If it is not red-hot, then IMHO anyone will drag on, the question is at what force and how much, before the break.

quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:
It will not be enough I thought it would be thicker.
you can ask why is not enough?

quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:

It will not be enough I thought it would be thicker.

No need to be greedy

... Finval has a 1.4 mm wall, and nothing tears or pulls anywhere.

at one time, just sawed with a hacksaw. zilch and everything flowed out. the material is soft, viscous.

By the way, I have been looking at the piston on the rod for two days and cannot understand how it works

.If the pressure is pumped up in front of the piston, then logically, when the rod is pressed, the force should increase, but it is constant throughout the entire movement of the rod.it means that it flows over the piston, which by the way confirms the “squelching” of oil in the inside when the rod is pressed, then how it flows back after the rod is released. I don't understand anything.
Sorry for the half-off.

There are grooves on the piston and two holes on each side along the washer, so they give a smooth flow, I forgot, but somehow it is, here in the winter, somehow the air between the washers got caught in the teeth with a trunk lid.

there is a tiny hole in the piston for throttling or without a hole, but then the stop wall with a longitudinal groove.

2 Jonk and Vado123
This is all clear and visible, I myself disassembled the piston and it lies on the front. Yes, there are throttling holes there, and the pressure apparently flows through (through) the piston, but how then does the rod with the piston come back? Indeed, after compression and overflow of pressure behind the piston, it must press the piston with the same force from the back side, from the side of the rod, and it must remain in place. and he comes back.

Yes, nothing presses on the piston at all. it is needed there only for throttling and centering the rod relative to the stop cylinder.
the stops, like the GP, work due to the fact that the compressed gas tends to push the rod out of the cylinder. If you want, you can say the gas presses on the rod, and not on the piston.

quote: Originally posted by Vado123:

we can say the gas presses on the rod, and not on the piston

In, now everything "fell" into place

For Deni-kin
I will say a special thank you for the topic.
It turned out to be not so scary to drill, preferably a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm. And pshiknulo I will say so not weakly, for a second more breathed with a 1.5 mm drill. There was 1.5-2 ml of oil.

it is easier to cut with a hacksaw for metal - just a quiet zest.

At one time I was afraid to drill even with a thin drill

Having removed about half a millimeter of thickness with a file, I shot through the remaining wall with a “brush” from IZH-38

Interestingly, what is the general pressure injected at the factory in these racks? Does anyone have such information?

at the factory, probably a press blank with a seal, which pushes on the stem and pressing the cylinder, blows a certain standard pressure into the slot of the stem seal. Poof is next. They are all disposable. not served by IMHO.

The topic was sucked more than once, make a hollow bushing according to the diameter of the stem with an internal thread for the stem, screw it onto the stem and push it inward. The gas will come out through the thread without any excesses, the oil will remain inside.

Here is what they write in the passport for the Fenox gas stop:

Yes, with a hacksaw for metal, (next to the place of the cut, then on a lathe), it sizzled a little and that's it. all the gas leaked out.

But the worst thing here is not oil, but shavings (from drilling and sawing), which can fly into the eyes by means of pressure escaping from the rack. The man in the video neglected TB at all!

about the shavings, there was a case there was a small shavings in the valve of the cornet and with a blank shot flew into the hand of my brother who decided to check the power))

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Is registered: 19.04.2007
Posts: 651

sobsno, are used by many
on zhuzhiki and not only.

the essence of the question, are such products maintainable?

You can buy naturally at any time, but there are some pitfalls:

1. the price of good ones is quite high.
2. at a more affordable price, one marriage.
3. I heard many times that even dear ones die very often in the cold.

well, I just would like to flood on this topic,
since I would be interested to restore them,
and right away to run to buy something is not our method)

The last time it was edited: ADVOKAT (30 October 2010 17:46), edited 1 time in total

LEKS
Authority

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Posts: 7208
Location: Boyarka (KIEV suburb)

Of course you can! nothing is impossible in life! buy a machine for repairing gas stops - and go!
so you can repair everything.
the main thing is to buy the right machine!

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Is registered: 19.04.2007
Posts: 651

it is more expedient to take a machine for drawing money

I certainly understand that this is all the suffering of x-her.
but still you need to flood at least

Sobsno so far found only a manual for the disposal of these.

Clamp the gas stop in the X = 50 mm zone in a vise (fig. 8.3).

ATTENTION
Clamping the gas stop in a vise is only permitted in the X zone, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the stop and getting injured.

Notch the gas strut cylinder in the first third of the entire length of the cylinder, starting from the edge on the rod side.

NOTE
Always wear safety glasses when cutting.

Cover the cut area with a rag.
Dispose of oil and rags according to local regulations.

el_fuego
Lone maniac

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Is registered: 03.12.2007
Posts: 4731
Location: Dnipro -> Kiev
My car: ZAZ-966 bright blue 1970

Well, think about it, there are pistons and a spring inside. First one wears out => remove and replace sealing parts.
The stock, in theory, has an oil seal or something like that - the same situation.

Well, how to disassemble is another question. Obviously do not cut because you can then forget about the alignment. On the reverse side, perhaps, there must be some kind of stub

LEKS
Authority

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Location: Boyarka (KIEV suburb)

by the way, at a psychiatrist's appointment you can also flood a lot

VolfGang
Fluder theorist

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Posts: 346
Location: Ukraine, Donetsk
My car: ZAZ 968 MD blue, year 1991

The piston does not wear out there, because it is just a choke for oil, it is sealed along the waist with a rubber ring. The cuff is worn out, it is in the same “X zone”. The rack is refueled through this same cuff. there are no plugs. The "working" piston is the rod itself.
Even if it were disassembled, a spare cuff can be taken in only one place - it is cut from a serviceable rack
That's all love, like grizzo.

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City: Ukraine, Zaporozhye
Name: Vadim

Our Kulibins in the city somehow restore the gas stops that hold the lads and hoods.
It was always interesting how gas is pumped in during repairs? There is nowhere to cook the nipple - there is usually very little space near these stops. Do you make any fittings?
Although the cost of restoration is about $ 10, you can't do much with this money

So how?