In detail: DIY repair of gas stops from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In the open spaces of the forum, there are different ways to relieve pressure from the rack before disassembling, but there is not a single detailed one. Write who does it and how, in detail, so to speak "competitively", so that later it would not be offensive for the newly made repair, or even worse - a damaged eye.
Fine drill bit and drill at low speeds. True, I disassembled a shrunken gas strut. Other things, the GP from the office chair understood the same way.
Drilled so that the future hole would be located above the oil level 
If you are afraid for the eyes, put on a protective screen cut out of cardboard on the drill. However, I drilled without everything and there was nothing but zilch.
A Th to be wise then? Drilled - pricked with a needle. Not pierced - I drilled yet. Drill 1-1.5 mm. I used to drill with a 0.25 bit, but it's hard not to break it
... It is drilled where it will be cut off.And so, my grandfather sawed such a rack on the balcony, with a file in a circle. Then he told how someone with a rifle jumped at him and showed a bruise
... Well at least he said what he was doing, otherwise I would have believed.
Where is the sealing ring on the stem plug? I ask you about the need to keep the maximum pipe length. Where to drill?
Here are two pictures:
quote: Originally posted by Fake:
Drilled so that the future hole would be located above the oil level
By the way, how much of this oil is there, what to prepare for?
quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:
By the way, how much of this oil is there, what to prepare for?
I honestly don't remember. I drilled the rack already flowing, there was a little oil in it, a maximum of a cube. You let her lie down in a horizontal position, so that the oil from the top wall of the glass to the maximum. As the air bleeds off, the oil will no longer flow, it will only ooze.
Cover the pipe with rags if you are afraid to get something dirty, but I don't think they will be useful.
I won't tell you the place of drilling - I drilled in the middle, I just wondered what was inside
 |
Video (click to play). |
quote: Originally posted by Fake:
You let her lie down in a horizontal position, so that the oil from the top wall of the glass to the maximum.
I don’t understand why horizontally and not vertically? Up that end where you will drill, the oil will drain down, then clamp it vertically in a vice as well, and hold the drill horizontally while drilling. Or is it somehow related to the design feature of the rack? What's in the gut in general? As far as I understand, its design is similar to gas. spring for PPP, or not?
Yes, they drilled her J. ny and the whole business
... Butter there is no more than a couple of cubes. Do not be afraid of it while you drill it will all flow down 
... The hole will definitely not have it.
quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:
Yes, they drilled her J. ny and the whole business
Is Zh. Pa made of the same thin sheet, or is the "sleeve" welded there? If there is a sleeve, then with a 1mm drill, drill for. Xia
.
Judging by the photo - the rack is pulled, from a round penny, like a 12 g can. It means that it is a little thicker than the walls, but not by much.
Drilled. it turned out “the devil is not so terrible. "
The drill was really stupid, did not sharpen, drilled somewhere for about 3 minutes, and watched a movie on TV in parallel , when "pshiknulo" did not even have time to get scared - I was distracted. By the way, "pshik" looks like if you hold the fitting of an automobile pump with your finger, swing and release the fitting, that is, the sound is quite quiet and nothing is splattered with oil.If anyone is interested, after a complete disassembly I will post a photo of the giblets, if not, I'll crash Temko.
this shrunken post (it was easily pushed through) was bled off by a dirty but safe method - the rod in the place under the number “1” was ground off on emery, then it was pressed against the floor with the rod and pressed down.blew naturally down the machined rod along with oil =) well, it was all done in the garage in old rags. the next one was disassembled by FILLING it with a hacksaw in the place under the number “2”. sawing the current at one point (and not in a circle.) Or, it is even easier to drill with a thin 1mm drill. how it hissed - we don’t get scared and don’t throw it (if in a vice, you can cover it with a rag and step aside. =)
be sure to use safety glasses.
quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:
By the way, "pshik" looks like if you hold the fitting of an automobile pump with your finger, swing and release the fitting,
But how it hisses if you drill with a 0.25 drill
.
quote: Originally posted by REACT:
here is this shrunken rack (easily pushed through)
Her, mine was forced only if I put one end on the floor, and press on the other with almost my whole body, and my body is not small, over a hundred
... quote: Originally posted by REACT:the stock at number “1” is ground on emery,
This method never crossed my mind. but if I did, I wouldn't do that - it's a pity for the stock
. quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:
But how it hisses if you drill with a 0.25 drill.
I drilled with a 1.5mm drill.
quote: Originally posted by Strelok-mod79:
Butter there is no more than a couple of cubes.
Not a fig, "a couple of cubes", there are all 7-8, if not properly disassembled, all this will fly into physics, and even under pressure.
quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:
Not a fig, "a couple of cubes", there are all 7-8, if not properly disassembled, all this will fly into physics, and even under pressure.
I analyzed the new Finwhals and the old Soviet ones - there wasn’t so much oil there.
At one time, it was drilled into a hairpin along its axis. A small puff and a drop of oil. Everything!
Above promised giblets photos:
But I think from different types and manufacturers, and the giblets will be slightly different.
disassembled, making a cut, like REACT, from the first to the ceiling of the workshop gave a not weak fountain of oil in an aerosol state, so the second rack sawed, wrap the sawing site with a rag (both racks were shrunk)
DENI-KIN And what is the wall thickness?
Internal D 16.1 (2) mm., Wall 1.6 (7) mm., But from the outside it is painted, so you can safely take away a couple of dozen.
It will not be enough 
I thought it would be thicker.
Well, it depends on what for
, for example: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/644/topic/30/453780.htmlThe main thing is that the pipe is solid-drawn, made of rather viscous but good metal, and also - it is polished inside like a cat's.
, and is suitable for many of our purposes. Vitaly, you shouldn't doubt its durability, when you sawed off the ass with a hacksaw, I thought the canvas was bald, but the canvas is practically new, and even when you take it in your hands, you feel it is a thing , there is something in it. the reliability is directly felt.
quote: Originally posted by Deni-kin:
Well, it depends on what for , for example: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/644/topic/30/453780.html
The main thing is that the pipe is solid-drawn, made of rather viscous but good metal, and also - it is polished inside like a cat's. , and is suitable for many of our purposes. Vitaly, you shouldn't doubt its durability, when you sawed off the ass with a hacksaw, I thought the canvas was bald, but the canvas is practically new, and even when you take it in your hands, you feel it is a thing , there is something in it. the reliability is directly felt.
Viscous means soft, the ear will stretch. Konstantin just talked about this, that metal drags on.
quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:
Konstantin just talked about this, that metal drags on.
Well, there are how many points it was (if about a link). If it is not red-hot, then IMHO anyone will drag on, the question is at what force and how much, before the break.
quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:
It will not be enough I thought it would be thicker.
you can ask why is not enough?
quote: Originally posted by Avizenna:
It will not be enough I thought it would be thicker.
No need to be greedy
... Finval has a 1.4 mm wall, and nothing tears or pulls anywhere.
at one time, just sawed with a hacksaw. zilch and everything flowed out. the material is soft, viscous.
By the way, I have been looking at the piston on the rod for two days and cannot understand how it works
.If the pressure is pumped up in front of the piston, then logically, when the rod is pressed, the force should increase, but it is constant throughout the entire movement of the rod.it means that it flows over the piston, which by the way confirms the “squelching” of oil in the inside when the rod is pressed, then how it flows back after the rod is released. I don't understand anything. Sorry for the half-off.
There are grooves on the piston and two holes on each side along the washer, so they give a smooth flow, I forgot, but somehow it is, here in the winter, somehow the air between the washers got caught in the teeth with a trunk lid.
there is a tiny hole in the piston for throttling or without a hole, but then the stop wall with a longitudinal groove.
2 Jonk and Vado123
This is all clear and visible, I myself disassembled the piston and it lies on the front. Yes, there are throttling holes there, and the pressure apparently flows through (through) the piston, but how then does the rod with the piston come back? Indeed, after compression and overflow of pressure behind the piston, it must press the piston with the same force from the back side, from the side of the rod, and it must remain in place. and he comes back.
Yes, nothing presses on the piston at all. it is needed there only for throttling and centering the rod relative to the stop cylinder.
the stops, like the GP, work due to the fact that the compressed gas tends to push the rod out of the cylinder. If you want, you can say the gas presses on the rod, and not on the piston.
quote: Originally posted by Vado123:
we can say the gas presses on the rod, and not on the piston
In, now everything "fell" into place
.
For Deni-kin
I will say a special thank you for the topic.
It turned out to be not so scary to drill, preferably a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm. And pshiknulo I will say so not weakly, for a second more breathed with a 1.5 mm drill. There was 1.5-2 ml of oil.
it is easier to cut with a hacksaw for metal - just a quiet zest.
At one time I was afraid to drill even with a thin drill
Having removed about half a millimeter of thickness with a file, I shot through the remaining wall with a “brush” from IZH-38
Interestingly, what is the general pressure injected at the factory in these racks? Does anyone have such information?
at the factory, probably a press blank with a seal, which pushes on the stem and pressing the cylinder, blows a certain standard pressure into the slot of the stem seal. Poof is next. They are all disposable. not served by IMHO.
The topic was sucked more than once, make a hollow bushing according to the diameter of the stem with an internal thread for the stem, screw it onto the stem and push it inward. The gas will come out through the thread without any excesses, the oil will remain inside.
Here is what they write in the passport for the Fenox gas stop:
Yes, with a hacksaw for metal, (next to the place of the cut, then on a lathe), it sizzled a little and that's it. all the gas leaked out.
But the worst thing here is not oil, but shavings (from drilling and sawing), which can fly into the eyes by means of pressure escaping from the rack. The man in the video neglected TB at all!
about the shavings, there was a case there was a small shavings in the valve of the cornet and with a blank shot flew into the hand of my brother who decided to check the power))
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Posts: 651
sobsno, are used by many
on zhuzhiki and not only.
the essence of the question, are such products maintainable?
You can buy naturally at any time, but there are some pitfalls:
1. the price of good ones is quite high.
2. at a more affordable price, one marriage.
3. I heard many times that even dear ones die very often in the cold.
well, I just would like to flood on this topic,
since I would be interested to restore them,
and right away to run to buy something is not our method)
The last time it was edited: ADVOKAT (30 October 2010 17:46), edited 1 time in total
LEKS
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Posts: 7208
Location: Boyarka (KIEV suburb)
Of course you can! nothing is impossible in life! buy a machine for repairing gas stops - and go!
so you can repair everything.
the main thing is to buy the right machine!
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Posts: 651
it is more expedient to take a machine for drawing money
I certainly understand that this is all the suffering of x-her.
but still you need to flood at least
Sobsno so far found only a manual for the disposal of these.
Clamp the gas stop in the X = 50 mm zone in a vise (fig. 8.3).
ATTENTION
Clamping the gas stop in a vise is only permitted in the X zone, otherwise there is a risk of damaging the stop and getting injured.
Notch the gas strut cylinder in the first third of the entire length of the cylinder, starting from the edge on the rod side.
NOTE
Always wear safety glasses when cutting.
Cover the cut area with a rag.
Dispose of oil and rags according to local regulations.
el_fuego
Lone maniac
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Is registered: 03.12.2007
Posts: 4731
Location: Dnipro -> Kiev
My car: ZAZ-966 bright blue 1970
Well, think about it, there are pistons and a spring inside. First one wears out => remove and replace sealing parts.
The stock, in theory, has an oil seal or something like that - the same situation.
Well, how to disassemble is another question. Obviously do not cut because you can then forget about the alignment. On the reverse side, perhaps, there must be some kind of stub
LEKS
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Location: Boyarka (KIEV suburb)
by the way, at a psychiatrist's appointment you can also flood a lot
VolfGang
Fluder theorist
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Posts: 346
Location: Ukraine, Donetsk
My car: ZAZ 968 MD blue, year 1991
The piston does not wear out there, because it is just a choke for oil, it is sealed along the waist with a rubber ring. The cuff is worn out, it is in the same “X zone”. The rack is refueled through this same cuff. there are no plugs. The "working" piston is the rod itself.
Even if it were disassembled, a spare cuff can be taken in only one place - it is cut from a serviceable rack
That's all love, like grizzo.
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- Repair of gas shock absorbers - what can fail?
- How to diagnose shock absorber faults?
- How does the repair of gas shock absorbers begin?
- Equipment for the repair of gas shock absorbers
- We repair a gas shock absorber
a thin copper tube is soldered, then pumped through it and the tube is crimped and sealed.
for example a capillary from a refrigerator. only the place must be chosen correctly so that nothing clings.
Post has been edited Sakhalin_Cat: 26 January 2013 - 00:11
A small but very useful revision is proposed for your review, in fact, the gas strut of the hood.
The topic that was about them was deleted, and even more so it was about ready-made stops from a techno master, a set of which costs about 1,500 rubles, plus delivery by mail in my case does not work out humanely at all
Let's start with:
We need first of all the emphasis itself, and in the extended state of 70 cm, I immediately notice there are not very many of them, mostly smaller, about 50 cm, and the compressive force should not be very large - according to my estimates, in the region of 200-250 N, under such parameters fall on the emphasis from the trade wind B6 and Gas Barguzin, they are immediately 70 cm each, I used from the trade wind, I just turned up in the store in stock
Here is infa on the domestic SAAZ stops, they can be found everywhereStops for LADA SAMARA cars
2108-8231010-05 / 2108-8231015-05 / 2108-6308015
Product length, mm in free state - 450 in compressed state - 275
Piston stroke, mm 175
Weight, kg 0.34
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 340
================================================== ========
Stops for LADA 4 × 4 cars
Model 2121-6308010 / 2121-6308015 / 2121-8231010-05 / 2121-8231015-05
Product length, mm in free state 450 in compressed state 275
Piston stroke, mm 175
Weight, kg 0.34
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 260
———-
LADA 21213
Model 21213-8231010-05
Product length, mm in free state 450 in compressed state 275
Piston stroke, mm 175
Weight, kg 0.34
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 340================================================== ========
Stops to OKA cars
Model 21213-8231010-05
Product length, mm in free state 450 in compressed state 275
Piston stroke, mm 175
Weight, kg 0.34 Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 340
================================================== ========Stops to UAZ Patriot cars
Model 12.8231015-01
Product length, mm in free state 500 in compressed state 300
Piston stroke, mm 200
Weight, kg 0.358
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 250
================================================== ========
Stops to UAZ Hunter cars
Model 121.8231015
Product length, mm in free state 450 in compressed state 275
Piston stroke, mm 175
Weight, kg 0.330
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 280
================================================== =========Stops for LADA Kalina cars
Model 1118-8231015
Product length, mm in free state 305 in compressed state 200
Piston stroke, mm 105
Weight, kg 0.23
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 415
—
Model 1119-8231015
Product length, mm in free state 600 in compressed state 350
Piston stroke, mm 250
Weight, kg 0.4
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 340=======================================
Stops for cars LADA 110-112 LADA 111
Model 2111-8231010 / 2111-8231015
Product length, mm in free state 600 in compressed state 350
Piston stroke, mm 250
Weight, kg 0.435
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 430LADA 111
Model 2111-8231010-10 / 2111-8231015-10
Product length, mm in free state 600 in compressed state 350
Piston stroke, mm 250
Weight, kg 0.435
Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 340LADA 112
Model 2112-8231010 / 2112-8231015
Product length, mm in free state 450 in compressed state 275
Piston stroke, mm 175
Weight, kg 0.32 Diameter, mm rod 10 piston 20 reservoir 22
Effort on the rod R, N 460===========================================
Well, this is so for reference, if you did not find an emphasis of 70 cm, then it does not matter, you can take any, it is better to be more authentic, and lengthen the barbell, for example, by welding a piece of the bar from another of the same stop, good to the required length
Then we make a plate with an ear from the metal at hand and rivet directly to the hood, they need to drill several holes in the hood amplifier, I have 4, the plate configuration is determined solely at your request, it is attached as in the photo, all this is closed with a standard hood noise
Next, we make the lower bracket, which is attached to the right glass of the body, there is also room for imagination
I made a bmw and a plate out of the bracket from the towbar, the main thing is the place where the lower end of the stop is attached, here I missed a bit, or rather did not finish it, because the vertical stop prevented the placement of plastic mounts for the brake reservoir from the right-hand drive version, at my leisure I will remove them then and move the emphasis.
It seems that I did not notice any other tricks, if you ask what I will answer, in conclusion I will say the emphasis does not touch anything, there is still a lot of space, I took off the headlight and looked specifically, everything works fine, nothing falls, the cost price is 500 rIn many foreign cars, the hood is lifted with the help of gas stops, like those that open and hold the fifth door in hatchbacks. Such gas stops are quite convenient, and the standard support located at the front edge of the hood will not interfere.
We will install such gas stops on our VAZ 2109.
You can install the stops in different ways. There are standard stops that are installed on one side of the hood. Since this is an element of tuning, it will not be available to everyone, both in terms of price and availability in local retail outlets. Although in our time everything can be ordered via the Internet, there would be a desire.
In the same article, we will look at how to use regular spare parts.The gas stops of the fifth door are perfect for the role of the hood stops of the VAZ 2109. They can be installed by drilling 4 holes with a diameter of 8 mm, as shown:
All that remains to be done is to install the gas stops in the prepared holes and secure them with bolts. For reliability, nuts can be screwed on from the reverse side.
The specified design will not touch the surrounding parts, but if you installed anything non-standard under the hood, for example, the front struts stretching, it is better to first try on the position of the stops so that when folded they will never touch.
Don't waste your money. Try it yourself.Shock absorber instead of torsion bars. Gas ones are not repaired only.
The trunk lid is constantly hitting the head, I decided to remedy this situation by a simple device.
I tried to restore the gas stop of the tailgate, it worked, but for how long? Basically, it's simple.
SHOCK ABSORBER REPAIR (COLLECTIVE) HOOD COVER. Just drill a hole and insert the bolt.
Car service "Wheelbarrow for pumping" Dalnegorsk, Mayakovskogo street, 1 site -
for temporary repairs, only a piece of tubing with an inner diameter greater than 18 mm is needed. Order number for a new one.
all about the repair of frets viburnum, budget repair of the rear stops of the trunk lid, cylinders, trunk, repair.
The bandage was purchased for an action from the Gas Spring of the Russian Federation store, reviews as used, Bandage Fittings.
As he could, he did so. But it works. This video, of course, is about the repair of furniture fittings, or rather not even.
AUTO AMATEUR CHANNEL === HOW TO MAKE A BROKEN TORSION MOUNTING ON THE TRUNK. DRILLING THE HOLE.
The gas lift for the folding bed can be deflated, only changed.
Replacing rear door shock absorbers Nissan Terrano 2.7 On>.
Once again, I am convinced that the substitutes, i.e. duplicates are made of much better quality than native spare parts.
Regular gas spring for pneumatics or other tasks from an automotive gas strut. How it's done.
Repair of the hinge of gas or oil struts of the car. Thank you for helping us develop the channel! Its grateful.
At the present time, most of the passenger cars are still represented by foreign manufacturers, therefore, the market for spare parts has developed just as widely. Not in the last place are car shock absorbers, which are one of the most important parts of the suspension.
From time to time, experienced motorists usually check the condition of their car's shock absorbers. This is done in different ways, often as best they can. The main ways to check shock absorbers are as follows:
- assessment of the car's behavior while driving;
The most common and, perhaps, the simplest way that motorists resort to is rocking the car. The essence of this method is to alternately swing the car around each corner. But there are two methods of rocking a car. In the first case, car owners, pushing on the car from one edge, observe how the body moves.
If it rises slowly, then the shock absorbers are in order and work properly, but if there are no delays in its lifting and it, as it were, "shoots" upwards, then they do not work. Another option involves the intensive rocking of the car in several steps. When the shock absorbers are working properly, the car stops swinging already at the second free swing, it all depends on the swing intensity. The more worn out the shock absorber, the slower the vibration damping occurs.
Everyone can do this test, but the reliability is too low. It only allows you to determine the extremes: a working shock absorber or not. If the vibrations are partially damped, for example, by half, it is unrealistic to visually determine this and the shock absorber will seem to be in good working order. This is the weak point of this diagnostic method. At the same time, the shock absorber, which is already a little "withered", is not able to provide full contact of the wheel with the road surface at high speeds. There is one more thing regarding the buildup. Press on the car as gently as possible and as close to the body ribs as possible. If you do not take this into account, then with just one sufficiently large force, you can leave a noticeable dent on the fender or hood.
The next method - visual inspection is very close to the previous diagnostic method, both in its effectiveness and complexity. First of all, it provides for the appearance of an oil drip damper housing. That is irrefutable proof of the loss of body tightness and partial or complete failure of the shock absorber. Remember that oil mist on the surface of the case is not always a sign of a malfunction.
The shock absorber should be regularly cleaned of any dirt that appears, because it interferes with the correct visual diagnostics.Therefore, after cleaning, re-inspect the shock absorber after a few days. If streaks occur again, then the shock absorber is definitely defective. It is also necessary to inspect tires, because how evenly their tread is worn out will affect the performance of the shock absorbers. If there are clear signs of wear along the edges of the tread, then the shock absorber is rolling with constant jumps, which highlights the inoperative shock absorber.
How well shock absorbers work as a result of heating their housing is not often checked by motorists. And this is explained by the fact that it is inconvenient to carry out such a check, because the shock absorbers are located in hard-to-reach places. Hydraulic shock absorbers, for example, work on the principle of converting vibrational energy into heat. From this it follows that warmer shock absorbers perform their function best. To obtain the most accurate results with this diagnostic method, one important requirement must be met.
Before checking, it is necessary to warm up the shock absorbers by driving the car at high speed on a difficult track. It is more convenient to check the degree of warming up of the shock absorbers on an overpass or inspection pit. The temperature of each should be close to each other. If any shock absorber is knocked out of the general ensemble by its significantly lower temperature, this means that its efficiency is much reduced. If one shock absorber is in extreme overheating mode, then its “brothers” have completely or partially lost the ability to dampen vibrations.
Only really experienced drivers can evaluate the serviceability of shock absorbers by the behavior of a car on the road. When the shock absorbers are defective, the vehicle is at speed 80-90 km / h already begins to scour from side to side, body swaying appears, directional stability decreases. The swing has a weakly damping character, and when it hits the next irregularities, the rolling amplitude rises again.
Moving on a curve in such a car, its reactions to steering movements will be belated, and the stopping distance will be significantly increased. According to the level of comfort of movement, the malfunction of shock absorbers is not always determined. Except only when the vehicle is equipped with sport gas shock absorbers. The breakage will be visible in the event of the loss of their characteristic inherent rigidity.
The most accurate way to determine shock absorber faults is bench diagnostics. This check includes two methods: placing the car on the vibration platforms of the stand, removing the shock absorber and checking the value of the damping force using a special measuring stand. The results of the second method are more accurate, but due to the difficulties of removing shock absorbers from a car, it did not find widespread use among professionals, when the first is quite common among qualified car service workers.
Almost every more or less "packed" service station has vibration stands that help to determine the degree of performance of automobile shock absorbers without disassembling the vehicle. And, which is good news, the cost of such a check is not great.
Shock absorbers are simply "winners in life" among all the suspension parts of a car. They not only dampen all vibrations in the road - suspension - body chain, but also play an important role in the process of wheel adhesion to the road surface, in braking and directional stability. Although, some novice motorists, mistakenly believe that the task of shock absorbers is only to create comfortable conditions while moving in a car.
Repairing gas shock absorbers begins with diagnosing them and understanding how they work. You should not panic if suddenly, for some reason, you find a creak or leak in the shock absorber, even though only recently from the inspection and everything was normal there. On the contrary, it is commendable that you paid attention to such atypical behavior of your car. The diagnostic principle "a good knock will show itself" has never failed.
The second stage of the shock absorber epic is the repair itself. There are two repair options, as in principle and always: go to a service station, where qualified specialists will do everything right for a fee and fix the problem on their own in their garage. The first step is mainly guided by novice drivers. And experienced, in turn, get a manual for the car, and are determined with the type of shock absorbers that are installed on their car. In general, the lion's share of the automotive market is equipped with non-separable shock absorbers, which, alas, does not provide for their repair. But this is in those fabulous lands where roads are like an iron and shock absorbers serve for five or even more years.
The following equipment will help simplify the work on the repair and restoration of gas shock absorbers, as well as extend their operational life:
- a special nozzle-gas filler (in a set from 1 to 10 pieces);
- user manual.
And so, an experienced driver without hesitation chooses the second option and starts repairing the shock absorber with his own efforts. And it's good if his car does not have pumped shock absorbers. This is a type of shock absorber with a change in gas pressure, which allows you to change the performance in the event of a heavy load on the vehicle. The thing is that such shock absorbers are installed as an additional option.
Of course, they do their job perfectly well, but for the time being, until they fail. And here the car owner gets into trouble. A new shock absorber of this kind will cost several hundred dollars. The repair of gas shock absorbers is another matter. Their repair is not much different from the repair of hydraulic ones. It can be made completely independently with the presence of special equipment.
Regarding the restoration of shock absorbers, I don’t want to question the skill of auto mechanics at the service station, but there is such a thing as “the voice of the people”. You can hear it on various automotive forums, where many car owners share their experiences and impressions. And the restoration of this element of the car suspension is viewed on them exclusively from the negative side. After all, a faulty shock absorber is a spare part that is worth saving on, and even this saving is very, very doubtful, because the guarantee for the mileage of remanufactured shock absorbers is minimal.
Video (click to play).
Our Kulibins in the city somehow restore the gas stops that hold the lads and hoods.
It was always interesting how gas is pumped in during repairs? There is nowhere to cook the nipple - there is usually very little space near these stops. Do you make any fittings?
Although the cost of restoration is about $ 10, you can't do much with this money
So how?
