Do-it-yourself cylinder head repair

In detail: do-it-yourself cylinder head repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Oka's car began to be produced a long time ago and has earned considerable popularity among domestic motorists. Of course, the technical characteristics of the car in question are far from the requirements of a modern motorist. Despite this, at one time Oka enjoyed great popularity due to its inherent economy. Owners of an Oka car of the early years of production often encounter malfunctions of the engine system. This is easily explained by the service life and operating conditions of the vehicle. One of the most effective ways to return the vehicle to work is to overhaul the Oka or VAZ 11113 engine. It is quite difficult to carry out repairs yourself, since many processes will require expensive equipment. In order to save money, you can prepare the Oka for a major overhaul with your own hands.

The benefits of the overhaul are clear. Large-scale repair of the engine will allow: to increase the service life of the vehicle, to increase the resource of the engine and to increase its performance.

The first stage of the overhaul is a detailed diagnosis of the internal combustion engine. It is quite difficult to carry out a check in a garage. In order to determine the productivity of an engine, you will need computer equipment and related skills.

To perform a complete restoration of the engine, it is necessary to dismantle the vehicle device. It is not so easy to carry out this procedure with your own hands, despite the small dimensions of the motor. In order to avoid damage to the engine, it is necessary to use a number of specialized equipment: support frames, a hydraulic puller, a device for hanging the engine.

Video (click to play).

After the engine has been successfully dismantled, it is necessary to start disassembling it. It is necessary to disassemble the engine strictly in a certain order in order to prevent damage to its individual parts.

After disassembly, it is necessary to proceed to the most important stage of overhaul, which consists in troubleshooting individual components of the internal combustion engine. The main purpose of the overhaul is to restore the original parameters of the vehicle elements. Therefore, the only correct manual for repairing the Oka is the original manufacturer's instructions.

In the course of a large-scale restoration of the VAZ 11113 engine, the following procedures are mandatory:

Restoration of the parameters of the cylinder block VAZ 11113.
Repair of crankshaft and camshaft inlets.
Restoration of the bearing part of the crankshaft.
Processing the head of the VAZ 11113 cylinder block.
Restoring the tightness of the unit by welding.
Correction of the connecting rod geometry.
Replacement of all consumables and rubber seals.

Large-scale car repair requires appropriate skills and expensive equipment. Therefore, in order to perform the restoration, you will have to turn to professionals.

One of the most important stages of engine restoration is cylinder head processing. The vehicle manufacturer specifies the permissible head processing limit, which must be strictly adhered to when carrying out repairs. Before proceeding with a large-scale repair, it is necessary to study in detail the accompanying instructions of the manufacturer's plant. Also, it is imperative to check with the master to what depth the cylinder head will be processed. If the element is worn out above the permissible limit, further operation of the block head is prohibited.If processing and restoration of the cylinder head is possible, the work is accompanied by the obligatory replacement of the cylinder head gasket. In this case, it is also necessary to take into account the depth of processing of the element in order to give the block its original tightness.

To restore the VAZ 11113 internal combustion engine to the factory parameters, it is recommended to use the services of proven workshops. Overhaul is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure that must be carried out by qualified craftsmen. Before carrying out repairs, it is necessary to assess the cost of the restoration soundly. Some car enthusiasts forget to appreciate the difference between restoring an element and replacing it. With critical engine wear, repair costs may well exceed the primary cost of the internal combustion engine. If it is necessary to replace individual elements of the vehicle, it is worth using only original spare parts from the manufacturer.

After carrying out the repairs, it is worth starting to break in the car. During the running-in period, it is necessary to prevent an increased load on the propulsion system. Otherwise, the costs of restoring the engine will not pay off and the VAZ 11113 vehicle will again lose its performance.

Successful restoration of the VAZ 11113 car!

key "13"
mandrel for pressing caps
valve spring compressor
cap remover
mandrels for pushing out and pushing in guide bushings
tweezers
beard
hammer
scraper

Remove the head from the cylinder block (see subsection 10.4.1.) And clean it.

Cap remover:

With an increased clearance in the valve drive, a characteristic knock appears, usually at regular intervals (its frequency is less than any other knock in the engine). If the adjustment of the clearances in the valve drive does not give positive results, check the condition of the camshaft and bearing surfaces for the camshaft journals.

In workshops equipped with special tools and devices, it is possible to check the radial runout of the middle journal of the camshaft, which should not exceed 0.02 mm, and the gap between the holes of the bearings and the camshaft journals, which should not exceed 0.2 mm (clearance for new parts is 0.069 - 0.11 mm).

1. Remove the three nuts securing the inlet pipe to the head of the block.

2. Please note: flat washers are installed under the nuts.

3. Remove the inlet pipe from the block head studs.

4. Remove the gasket from the head studs 1 inlet pipe and two gaskets 2 exhaust pipe of the muffler.

5. Remove the valve lifters with shims.

6. Mark the pushers or arrange them in order so that later they can be put in the same place. Wherein.

7. ... do not remove the shims from the tappets unnecessarily so as not to confuse them.

8. Mark the valves with the cylinder numbers, for example, wrap.

9. Remove both spark plugs.

10. Place a suitable stop, such as a bearing, under the valve to be removed.

11. Screw a nut onto the stud to secure the valve spring compressor (use a nut without a toothed collar).

12. Install the valve spring compressor and compress the springs.

13. Use tweezers to remove two crackers. Then remove the fixture.

14. Take out the upper spring plate.

16. ... internal valve spring. In the same way, remove the crackers and springs of the remaining valves.

17. Remove the valves from the combustion head from the side of the block.

18. Press the valve stem seals off the guide bushings. For this.

19. ... install the collet of the fixture on the cap and strike sharply with a striker on the bushing of the fixture.

20. Then, just as sharply hit the handle of the device with a striker.

21. ... thereby pressing the cap off the guide sleeve.

22. Remove the cap from the collet of the fixture.

23. Remove the lower valve spring plates.

24. Clean carbon deposits from valves with a suitable metal tool. Then carefully inspect the valves.

25. Replace valves with the following defects: deep marks and scratches on the working chamfer 1, cracks, bar deformations 2, warping of the plate 3, traces of burnout. Shallow risks and scratches on the working chamfer can be removed by lapping the valves (see subsection 10.5.2.).

26. In a specialized workshop, valve chamfers with damage that cannot be removed by lapping can be sanded on a special machine. When grinding, observe the dimensions indicated in the figure (in brackets are the different dimensions for the engine mod. 11113). On the left in the figure is the intake valve, on the right is the exhaust valve.

27. Check the condition of the valve seats. The working chamfers of the seats should be free of signs of wear, cavities, corrosion, etc. The valve seats can be replaced by a specialist workshop. Minor damages (small risks, scratches, etc.) can be removed by lapping the valves (see subsection 10.5.2.).

28. More significant defects in valve seats are eliminated by grinding to the dimensions indicated in the figure: a - inlet valve seat; b - exhaust valve seat; I - new saddle; II - the saddle after repair. It is recommended to grind the saddles in a specialized workshop. The different dimensions for the motor mod. Are given in brackets. 11113.

29. Having a locksmith skill, you can eliminate defects manually using a set of special cutters. At the beginning, the chamfer is processed a at an angle of 15 °, then a chamfer b at an angle of 20 ° and a chamfer v at an angle of 45 °. After processing, it is necessary to grind the valves (see subsection 10.5.2.).

30. Check the condition of the outdoor 1 and internal 2 valve springs. Replace bent, broken or cracked springs.

31. To check the elasticity of the outer spring, measure its free height and then under two different loads. If the spring is out of specification, replace it.

32. Check the elasticity of the inner spring using the same method. If the spring is out of specification, replace it.

33. Inspect the valve lifters. If the working surface of the pusher is scored, scratched, etc., replace it.

34. The working surfaces of the adjusting washers should be free of scoring, nicks, scratches, traces of stepped or uneven wear, metal coating. In case of such defects, the washers must be replaced. Concentric burn-in marks with camshaft cams are allowed on the washers.

35. Have a specialist workshop check the clearance between the guide bushings and the valves. It is defined as the difference between the bore diameter of the sleeve and the diameter of the valve stem.

36. To measure the bore diameter of the bushing, you need a special tool (internal gauge). The nominal clearance for inlet valves is 0.02-0.05 mm, and for exhaust valves 0.03-0.06 mm. The maximum allowable clearance for inlet and outlet valves is 0.3 mm.

37. The gap that has not reached the maximum permissible value can be eliminated by replacing the valve. If it is not possible to select the valve or the clearance exceeds the maximum allowable, replace the guide bush. Press out the bushing from the side of the combustion chamber with a special mandrel.

38. Bushings with retaining rings are supplied as spare parts. The sleeves have an increased outer diameter and a reduced valve bore diameter.

39. Having lubricated the bushing with engine oil, insert it into a special mandrel and press it from the side of the camshaft until the stop ring stops in the block head. Then use a reamer to reamer the bore in the bushing to a diameter of 8.022-8.040 mm for inlet valves and 8.029-8.047 mm for exhaust valves.

40. Remove the oil seal from the camshaft.

41. Replace the camshaft if there are signs of wear, scoring and deep marks on its journals and cams.

42. Replace the cylinder head and bearing housing if they are cracked or if the bearing surfaces show signs of wear, scoring and deep scratches.The bearing housing is machined together with the block head, so they must be changed together.

43. Remove carbon deposits from combustion chambers. Examine the head. If it has cracks or traces of burnout in the combustion chambers, replace the camshaft head and bearing housing.

44. Remove burrs and nicks from the seating surface of the block head.

45. Check the flatness of the surface adjacent to the cylinder block. To do this, place the ruler with an edge on the surface of the head in the middle along the axis of the head, and then measure the gap between the plane of the head and the ruler along the diagonals and a feeler gauge. Replace the head if the gap is greater than 0.1 mm.

46. To check the tightness of the head, remove the cooling system pipe from the studs by unscrewing the two fastening nuts; plug the hole in the block head by installing, for example, a blank gasket made of thick cardboard under the branch pipe; tighten the fastening nuts and.

47. ... pour kerosene into the channels of the water jacket. If the kerosene level drops, then there are cracks in the head and it needs to be replaced. Remember to remove the cardboard spacer after checking.

48. Flush the oil channels of the block head with gasoline using a blower or syringe and blow with compressed air.

49. Replace damaged intake gaskets 1 and reception 2 muffler pipes.

50. Rub the valve against the seat (see subsection 10.5.2.). If you are installing an old valve, remove the burrs from the crack bores.

51. Lubricate the valves with engine oil and install them in the head in accordance with the previously made markings.

52. Install the lower valve spring plates.

53. Using a mandrel, press in the valve stem seals, having previously lowered them into the oil (see subsection 10.4.3.).

54. Install the springs and the upper spring seat in the reverse order of removal. Install the crackers using the tool so that they fit into the grooves of the valve stem.

The only model of a particularly small class, equipped with a two-cylinder engine, which was produced by the Volga Automobile Plant (as well as SeAZ and KamAZ) was VAZ "Oka" and its modifications.

Despite the fact that there were only two cylinders, conceptually the engine of this machine did not differ from the engines of other versions of the VAZ. It was a well-developed power plant with a liquid cooling system, electronic ignition, timing with an overhead distribution. shaft and belt drive, carburetor power system. The Oka power unit differed from the engine of the same VAZ-2108, in fact, only in the number of cylinders. This means that this installation required the same maintenance as the "eight".

The features of this engine include a rather serious role of the cylinder head. After all, it is used in the power supply and exhaust gas system, ignition, cooling, and also ensures the observance of the valve timing. But unlike the VAZ-2108 cylinder head, the Oka head is very compact.

Since the operability of the engine as a whole depends on the condition of the head and the elements installed in it, the engine's overall performance should be periodically carried out, it is necessary to periodically carry out maintenance of the units installed in the cylinder head, which is reduced to adjusting the valves, as well as replacing the valve stem seals. In the event of a breakdown, repair work is carried out.

Note that it is impossible to repair the Oka head while it is installed on the engine, so the first operation to restore this element is to remove it from the engine. Despite the fact that the cylinder head is located in the upper part of the power plant, it is not very easy to dismantle it, since many components are attached to it. You will also have to remove it if you need to replace the head gasket.

Basically, the repair of the cylinder head "Oka" 11113 or other modification is carried out if there are problems with the valve assembly:

Burnout valves;
Wear of valve seats and edges, burning them;
Damage or wear of guides and valve stem seals;

These are the main reasons that require repair work. There are other reasons why you have to remove the cylinder head and subject it to repair, for example, the appearance of a crack on the case, but such a malfunction is very rare.

Also, removing the cylinder head will be required in case of replacing the cylinder-piston group, since the pistons are pulled up from the cylinders.

Note that when dismantling the head from the motor, at least you have to unscrew and remove a lot of things, but these work can be done in a garage on your own, having only the basic tools at hand, no specific keys and accessories are required.

Removing the head "Oka" is done using:

A set of keys (open-end, ring, socket, heads with wrenches);
set of hexagons;
Screwdrivers;
Rags;
Capacity for collecting coolant;

You will also definitely need a new cylinder head gasket, since it is disposable, and for whatever purpose the head is removed, it is imperative that the head gasket be replaced. Additionally, you will need a valve cover gasket, distribution seals. shaft and gaskets for exhaust pipes and intake manifold.

Note that the complexity of dismantling largely depends on what exactly the cylinder head is being removed for. If you just need to replace the gasket under it, then you won't have to disassemble much. If it is removed, in order to disassemble the head and carry out repairs, then more elements will have to be dismantled. The complete disassembly instructions will be described below, but simple disassembly is also mentioned.

Having stocked up with everything you need, you can start work.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

And then repair work is already underway. But for this, the intake manifold is first disconnected from the head. Then the pushers are removed along with the shims. Further, for disassembly, you will need a device for drying out and drying out the valves in order to remove them, after which repair work is carried out - replacing the valve guides, the valves themselves, grinding them in, etc.

After restoration, the head is installed in place (do not forget to replace the cylinder head gasket), and everything is assembled back. But there are some nuances during assembly, and the most important of them is the order of tightening the cylinder head. If you do not follow it, there is a high probability that the head will not be securely seated, it may lead or a breakdown of the gasket will occur.

The order of tightening the block head bolts on the "Oka" is shown in the photo:

We also note that tightening is performed in several approaches and always using a torque wrench:

We tighten all the bolts in the specified order, creating a force of 20 N / m;
With the second approach, the force should be 70-85 N / m;
Performing the third approach, we turn the bolts 90 degrees.;
The last approach - once again turn 90 degrees;

During the assembly process, we also pay attention to the condition of the distribution seals. shaft and, if necessary, replace them.

Oka is the only small-class model equipped with a two-cylinder internal combustion engine, which was produced by VAZ. And, despite the presence of only two cylinders, the Oka engine does not conceptually differ from the engines of other car models produced by the Volga Automobile Plant.The power plant is well designed, everything is provided in it:

Liquid cooling system.

Timing belt with top camshaft.

Electronic ignition system.

Carburetor.

In fact, the Oka engine differs from the internal combustion engine of the VAZ 2108 model only in the number of cylinders. Thus, the power unit of this baby requires exactly the same maintenance as the internal combustion engine of the "eight". The main feature of the Oka engine is that the cylinder head plays a serious role in its operation, since with its small dimensions it performs the same functions as the VAZ 2108 cylinder head, namely, it participates in the systems:

Power supply and exhaust gas discharge.

Cooling.

Ignition.

Also, the "Oki" cylinder head is responsible for the observance of the valve timing. In general, the operability of the internal combustion engine depends on the state of the cylinder head and its components, therefore, it is necessary to regularly service its components:

Regulate the valve.

Replace the valve stem seals.

In case of failure, the cylinder head must be repaired, the complexity of which depends on the nature of the breakdown.Repair of the cylinder head on the Oka is impossible without removing it. Despite the seemingly convenient location of the cylinder head in the power unit, it is rather difficult to dismantle it. The fact is that many components are attached to it. As a rule, the Oka cylinder head is repaired for three main reasons:

Burning and wear of valve edges and seats.

Through valve burnout.

Mechanical damage or wear of valve stem seals and guides.

There are other types of breakdowns, for example, a crack on the case. Fortunately, this does not happen often. It will be necessary to dismantle the cylinder head and, if necessary, replace the cylinder-piston group.Despite the fact that the removal of the GBU in "Oka" is a very laborious process, the work can be done in a garage. So, if you decide to repair or service your Oka car yourself, you will need the following tools:

A set of wrenches (socket, ring, open-end, heads with wrenches).

Hexagon set.

Rags.

Screwdrivers.

Container for collecting antifreeze (antifreeze).

Do not forget about the new gasket under the cylinder head - this consumable is disposable, and even if it is in good condition, a new gasket is always installed when dismantling the cylinder head (for whatever reason this happens). Additionally, you will need camshaft oil seals, a valve cover gasket, and intake manifold and exhaust pipe gaskets.The complexity of the cylinder head removal procedure depends largely on the purpose for which the dismantling is performed. If you only need to replace the head gasket, then you don't have to disassemble a lot. If the cylinder head is dismantled to repair it, there will be much more work.Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed directly to removing the cylinder head.Further actions depend on the purpose for which the cylinder head is dismantled. If only the replacement of the gasket is required, then nothing else needs to be disassembled. It remains only to unscrew the cylinder head fasteners and remove it from the block along with the camshaft and intake manifold, replace the gasket and assemble everything in the reverse order.In this case, valve adjustment after assembly is not required, since the camshaft was not removed. If dismantling is carried out for repairs, then before unscrewing the cylinder head mounting bolts, you need to unscrew and remove the camshaft bearing cover and remove it. Only then can the cylinder head be removed.Further, the intake manifold is disconnected from the head, pushers and adjusting washers are removed. For subsequent disassembly (removal of valves), you will need a desiccant. The necessary repairs can now be carried out.After repair, the cylinder head is installed in place (with the obligatory replacement of the gasket), and everything is assembled in the reverse order. There are some nuances during assembly (one of them, the most important is the order of tightening the cylinder head bolts). If you do not observe it, there is a very high probability of a skewed fit of the head. Because of this, breakdown of the gasket may occur. Another important point is that the fastening bolts should be tightened in several passes. When doing this, be sure to use a torque wrench. Tightening procedure:

We tighten all the bolts in the specified sequence (force 20 N / m).

The second approach is carried out with an effort of 70-85 N / m.

The third approach is to turn the bolts 90 °.

The last, fourth approach - once again turn the bolts 90 °.

Also during assembly, you should pay attention to the condition of the camshaft oil seals. They must be replaced if necessary.This article shows the process of finalizing and tuning the cylinder head for the Oka engine. The head is from the 1111 motor and differs from the 11113 in the smaller diameter of the inlet valve - the 1111 valve has 35x31 mm, and the 11113 has 37x31 mm (inlet and outlet, respectively). The external difference of the 1111 head is a characteristic projection with markings. There is no protrusion on the 11113 head.The head was completely disassembled, all the pins were unscrewed and discarded. Then the head went through a thorough washing.We press out the serial bushings, then we bore the channels. In a standard head 1111 inlet diameter 27.7 mm, and the exhaust - 27 mm. After boring and grinding the channel diameters 31.3 x 28.5 mm. In addition, the serial channels have gross casting defects, steps in front of the seats - all this is removed during rework.After boring, the channels are ground to a certain roughness. The photographs clearly show the geometry of the modified channels, especially the area near the intake valve guides. You can also assess the quality of the completion of the valve necks.The photo below shows the throat of the inlet saddle, the throat of the outlet saddle and a general plan. After refining the channels, we press in an economical combination of guide bushings - bronze bushings on the exhaust valves, and high-quality cast iron on the inlet valves. This option has already been tested many times in economical head tuning options.After the bushings are pressed in, they are deployed with special calibrated reamers. This is followed by the stages of forming chamfers on the seats and restoring the alignment of the “sleeve-seat” pair, and the combustion chamber is being finalized. On this head, the geometry of the seats allowed for diffuser combustion chambers, with an increase in the mass fraction of the charge in the area of the spark plug.The next stage is lapping the valves, pouring the combustion chambers, and milling the cylinder head soles for the required compression ratio. In this case, the cylinder head is made for AI92 gasoline. The valves are equipped with special (lightweight, T-shaped) plates of serial size for 1111 heads - 35x31. All studs are completely new.I decided here to collect my own and other people's knowledge together and try to explain in simple language that dvigun is a simple thing. And if there are hands and a head on the shoulders, then this work can be done by anyone.I must say right away that the article is aimed at those who already know how to remove the cylinder head. has the necessary tools and is not afraid to work with his hands. How to remove the head of the block and other installation will tell you a good book with photographs about the repair of an oka (murzilka, Kama Sutra, whoever calls what he wants). There you will also find a more complete description of the toolkit.General information
Initially, an engineer (a really smart guy or their community) pursues several goals when developing an engine: efficiency, environmental friendliness, and most importantly - cheapness! Further, the drawings are revised and re-approved a hundred times. The result is a cross between an engine and a birdhouse ... Further, this is the case after test assemblies, etc. etc. goes into serial production at the plant. Unfortunately, as you know, serial assembly leaves much to be desired and deviations from the drawings sometimes reach unprecedented amplitude. In this connection, the choice of a car or, more precisely, its purchase is rather a lottery than a serious positive purchase.In terms of depth, I would dare to subdivide engine tuning into three categories:
1. Easy fine-tuning - it only means finishing up those works that should have been done at the plant, but for some reason were not done and did not set up. The goal is to get the very horses that the manufacturer claims.
2. Forcing - intervention in the engineering part and alteration of some elements of the internal combustion engine in order to obtain an overestimated power in comparison with the declared one.
3. Sport-boosting - to squeeze out the maximum possibilities from the internal combustion engine, or even rather 150% of its possibilities, even at the cost of a resource.There are usually the following ways to "add some dope" to the engine:
one.Zero or minimum resistance inlet and outlet.
2. Lightened intake due to the modification of the carburetor, improved atomization, as well as due to the modification of the CYLINDER HEAD, including its channels, valves, bushings, combustion chambers, etc.
3. Forcing in volume (increasing the working volume of the engine) - as the most effective method of forcing, but also the most "dangerous" and unpredictable due to defects in the casting of parts and other substandard, which sometimes, but still comes across ...In this article I will try to reveal the topic of fine-tuning the cylinder head, thanks to which we can well count on a certain increase in engine power.Finishing the cylinder head (cylinder head) and collectors
The essence of the work is to make it as easy as possible for the fresh fuel-air mixture to enter the working volume, thereby increasing the filling of the cylinders, and therefore the power with the torque.Tools:
- a set of keys (cap and socket heads) 8,10,13,17 and a pair of strong knobs
- socket hexagon 10 (for loosening the cylinder head bolts)
- end hexagon 5 (for unscrewing the housing of auxiliary units from the cylinder head)
- a desiccant (for desucharification of valves from their pushers)
- recessed device, retainer, tweezers, probes (for subsequent adjustment of thermal gaps)
- a mandrel for knocking out and pressing in the valve guide bushings (if we change the bushings)
- tool for removing and pressing on valve stem seals
- a wrench for tensioning the timing belt tensioner
- a mounting paddle and a pair of tubes for use as a lever
- a tube with a longitudinal slot for clamping it into the drill chuck and winding strips of sandpaper on itSADDLES AND BEVELS
The saddles will have to be chamfered. This is done with special countersinks and three repair chamfers are usually removed on each saddle: 30, 45 and 60 degrees. The sequence of actions can be almost any. Those. you can first remove 30 and 60 chamfers, and then 45. You can, on the contrary, first remove 45, and then bring it to the required size due to 20 and 60 chamfers.
Image - Do-it-yourself cylinder head repair

I usually first remove the inner chamfer (60), then the outer (30), and only then very carefully remove the 45 working chamfer. And if it is necessary to correct it, I do it using an external chamfer (30 degrees). It is recommended to leave the working chamfer (45 °) about 1.5 mm wide at the inlet valve, and about 1.8 mm at the outlet. But this time I did about 1.2mm at the inlet and about 1.5mm at the outlet.

Experience has shown: valves and chamfers tend to knock over 2-4 thousand km after repair and gradually rub in, thermal clearances change, the width of the chamfer changes. Therefore, when I removed a chamfer of 1.5 mm after 5 thousand, I found a chamfer there already 1.8 mm. Well, maybe this is a purely subjective perception ...

Finally
We change the valve stem seals and carefully put them in place of the valve and begin to grind them to the freshly removed chamfer. I did it with some not very expensive set of two lapping pastes. One for roughing with coarse grit. The other is with a smaller one. Usually it took about 2 minutes for each valve. 1 minute lapping with rough paste, then wiping with a cloth and another minute with finishing paste. For this there is a special valve grinding tool. They are very convenient to use. After lapping all the valves for leaks, we simply check:
1. Inserted all the valves
2. Turned the cylinder head upside down
3. "Closed" each valve to the end, so that it reliably rested against the saddles
4. Wrapped the candles
5. Kerosene was poured into the combustion chambers along the very edges so that all the valves were under the kerosene
If, within 25-30 minutes, the level of kerosene in any chamber has not dropped (not dropped at all), you can congratulate yourself on a wonderful, thorough lapping. If the level has dropped, re-rub the valves in the chamber where the kerosene seeped through the saddles into the channel.And then repeat the tightness test procedure.

Then we dry out all the valves back, put the pushers. Naturally, we lubricate this whole thing with engine oil on the way ... And bushings, and valve legs, and valve stem seals ... In a word, everything that slides. This is discussed in detail in the murzilki.

I already went through that rake, trying to add some blades to the small diffusers in order to swirl the falling air stream in order to create active vortexes and better mix the mixture. To be honest, it gives nothing but problems. On the contrary, the created obstacles worsen the meso formation and violate the already regulated and tuned system.

Good luck friends. The job is painstaking, but worth it.

Operations on a message:

How much money does such work cost - purely work without spare parts

The quality of work is at the level. So it would be in all services.

It would be nice to drill the oil channels and create an annular groove in the pusher well.

Well done Pasha, I really like your approach to business, you can find such specialists now!

In general, the car "Oka" is a fairly reliable and unpretentious model: the car has low fuel consumption, high-quality chassis, which is perfectly adapted to our roads. However, during operation, certain technical problems appear with enviable regularity in various systems and mechanisms of the machine. We will tell you more about the most frequent breakdowns and malfunctions.

Starter problems
Probably, all owners of the VAZ-1111 are familiar with the situation when you turn the ignition key, but the car does not react in any way - the starter does not even try to turn the crankshaft. How to find out what the problem is and what to do in such a situation?
First, check the battery terminals: if they are securely clamped, if there is oxide on them. Perhaps the "plus" or "minus" just flew off.
Second, it is necessary to exclude jamming of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the coolant pump (pump) or generator shaft. If they do not rotate, you should contact the service station - this problem cannot be eliminated on the spot.
Third, inspect the ignition switch and starter - it is possible that any of the contacts are disconnected and therefore no electric current is supplied.
Fourth, if a crack is heard under the hood when the ignition key is turned, then, most likely, the starter traction relay has burned out. It needs to be replaced.
Fifth, it is not uncommon for the starter to make a loud noise during operation. Possible cause - improper installation of the starter or loose mounting. Tighten loose bolts or align the entire mechanism.
Sixth, loud noise is also possible due to wear on the bearing bushings. In this case, they should be replaced.

If the starter turns the crankshaft freely, but the engine still does not start, then do the following:
• check the capacity of the storage battery, possibly there is not enough voltage. Most often, in this case, a crackling sound is heard. If so, recharge the battery or replace it;
• check the Hall sensor with a voltmeter, if you need the device not at hand, then install a known good sensor (experienced motorists recommend always carrying a spare Hall sensor with you);
• the engine may not start due to a faulty commutator. It cannot be repaired - it should be changed immediately;
• check the correctness of setting the ignition timing;
• make sure that the marks on the crankshaft and camshafts match.

If after that the car still does not start, then we proceed to check the spark plugs:
• unscrew the candles and measure the gap (standard - 0.7-0.8 mm);
• if there are spare working candles - screw them in, it may be that the old ones have simply fallen into disrepair.

Carburetor malfunctions
The second mechanism that can cause the car not to start is the carburetor:
• the needle valve may be stuck closed - tap lightly on the carburetor cover.Replace the faulty valve as soon as possible;
• if there is no gasoline in the carburetor float chamber, check the filters and pipes of the fuel system. They may be clogged or pinched;
• in hot weather, especially after long periods of standing, gasoline can evaporate from the carburetor. Try manually pumping fuel;
• the pump may be faulty - unscrew the fuel hose from the carburetor, pinch it with your finger and manually pump the gasoline - a working pump will create a tangible pressure;
• check the jets (main fuel and idle), possibly dirt has got into them;
• tighten all bolts and carburetor mountings.

"Shots" from the exhaust pipe
Each of us has heard more than once how cannonade literally sounds from the exhaust pipe. The VAZ-1111 car is also susceptible to a similar disease. The reasons for this are as follows:
• incorrectly set angle of ignition moment;
• the switch is faulty;
• the valve timing is knocked down - the marks on the crankshaft and camshafts do not match;
• broken ignition coil;
• installed candles with an inappropriate glow number

Gasoline smell
Often, domestically produced cars "delight" the driver and passengers with a persistent smell of gasoline. If this situation is familiar to you, then proceed according to the following algorithm:
• check the threaded fasteners and clamps on the fuel system hoses;
• inspect the oil dipstick, if there are traces of gasoline on it, it is possible that gasoline will get into the crankcase through the faulty diaphragm of the fuel pump. A diaphragm or a pump follows, if a lot of fuel gets in, then oil;
• adjust the carburetor starting device;
• check the level of gasoline in the float chamber;
• screw the fuel jets tightly;
• adjust the ignition timing;
• inspect the throttle valve, it may be stuck;
• use a compressor to check the pressure in the cylinders. Gasoline odor can be caused by worn valves, rings, seats and other parts.

Increased fuel consumption
If the car has an increased fuel consumption, then it is necessary to check the following components and mechanisms:
• the diaphragm of the fuel pump - its damage leads to the ingress of gasoline into the crankcase;
• tighten all clamps and threaded connections of the fuel system, possibly at some joint there is a leak;
• Quite often, increased resistance to movement of the car causes unnecessary fuel consumption. VAZ-1111 at a speed of 50 km / h should have a run-down (i.e., the distance that the car will travel when the neutral gear is engaged) more than 500 m, if this does not happen, then check the pressure in the wheels, the angles of the front wheels and the operation of the brake system (possibly wedging it up);
• adjust the carburetor, check the throttle valve, jets, needle valve;
• Sometimes increased fuel consumption is a sign of wear or damage to valves and piston rings.

Increased oil consumption
Increased oil consumption is considered to be 500 g per 1000 km of run, i.e. if you have to add oil to the engine every few hundred kilometers. The reasons for this malfunction are as follows:
• wear of sealing lips, hardening of gaskets. In this case, wash the engine and find the leak after a short trip;
• clogged crankcase ventilation system;
• wear or loss of elasticity of the valve stem seals (valve seals), valve stems or guide bushings. It will be necessary to partially disassemble the cylinder head and replace the broken parts;
• wear or breakage of piston cylinders and their rings. It is difficult to replace cylinders on your own without special equipment, so it is better to contact a service station.

The oil pressure indicator light is on
If while driving your oil pressure indicator light comes on, you should stop immediately. Further driving may result in serious engine damage.After stopping, carry out the following diagnostics:
• check the oil level on the dipstick;
• it is possible that the oil of the wrong viscosity has been filled in - change it;
• remove the oil pan and check the oil receiver mesh (may be clogged) and the pressure reducing valve for skewing, clogging or weakening of the spring;
• inspect the diaphragm of the fuel pump - if it is damaged, gasoline gets into the oil, thereby thinning it;
• check the oil pump - due to wear of the gears, it may be defective;
• make sure that the emergency oil pressure sensor is in good working order and the terminal is connected to it (maybe the contact has fallen asleep).

Overheating of the engine
Severe overheating of the engine may be due to malfunctions in the cooling system:
faulty thermostat;
• plugs in the cooling system resulting from leaks in the expansion tank cap. To check, apply soapy foam to the lid and press your hands on the cooling system hoses, if soap bubbles go out, replace the tank or lid;
• limescale in the cooling system - flush the entire system with special means and do not use hard water in the future (it is best to fill in antifreeze);
• excessive contamination of the radiator cells - wash the radiator with a jet of water;
• check the electric fan - close its contacts, if it works, then the sensor is faulty, if not, then check the electrical circuit or the fan motor;
• adjust the ignition timing.

Extraneous noise when driving
If during movement there are extraneous noises or tapping, then the following mechanisms must be checked:
• wheel bearings - their wear causes noise;
• tires - possibly uneven tread wear, rubber peeling;
• the wheel touches the wheel arch liner - adjust the wheel alignment angles, do not overload the car and use only standard wheel disks;
• tighten the wheel nuts;
• faulty shock absorber strut;
• worn suspension spring;
• check the silent blocks, ball joints, tie rods, anti-roll bars, strut mountings.

Brake system problems
A squeal when braking is the first sign of a problem with the braking system. The most common causes of screeching are the following malfunctions:
• wear of brake linings (pads) - replace both pads;
• dirt trapped in the pads - clean the pad surface with a metal brush;
• corrosion of the brake disc - sharpen or replace it;
• Weakened or broken rear brake pad return spring.

Video (click to play).

This is not a complete list of possible malfunctions. Any technique breaks down sooner or later, but if we cannot predict when exactly this will happen, then it is in our power to prepare:
1. Always carry a tow rope with you.
2. it is advisable to have wires in the car for lighting (especially important in winter);
3. Spare switch and Hall sensor;
4. a set of fuses;
5. a piece of fuel hose and clamp;
6. spare spark plugs;
7. belts for the generator and pump;
8. clutch cable;
9. solenoid valve for idling.
This simple list will help you cope with some breakdowns and get to the service station. Do not forget to grab some politeness - motorists, despite the general bitterness, are quite close-knit and sympathetic people. It is unlikely that you will be left alone in trouble.

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