Do-it-yourself cylinder head repair VAZ 2114 8 valves

In detail: repair of the cylinder head of a VAZ 2114 8 valves with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The cylinder head is a cover designed to enclose the cylinder block. It is also indispensable for some other functions that are no less important in the operation of the vehicle's power plant.

During operation of the engine, an air-gas mixture is supplied to the head itself, and exhaust gases are removed thanks to the exhaust manifold.

The cylinder head is a fairly durable working unit, so it does not need to be repaired or completely replaced so often. On cars manufactured in the territory of the Russian Federation, the cylinder head has to be removed due to cylinder leakage or when the gasket is worn out.

And sometimes the cylinder head is removed for rework. Removing this unit on a vehicle with any number of valves is fairly easy, although some skill may be required.

In this regard, if you needed to remove the cylinder head yourself for the first time, then it is best to do this under the control of a person who has previously faced a similar task.

In order to repair or replace the cylinder head, you will definitely need some tools that are not so often found in a novice car enthusiast. Namely:

A set of keys.
Screwdriver.
Torque wrench.
Socket heads.
Torx.

Disconnect the negative terminals from the storage battery.
The piston of the first cylinder is set to the top dead center position.
All the coolant is drained off.
The fuel pressure decreases.
The exhaust pipe is disconnected from the manifold.
The cylinder head cover is being dismantled.
All pipes, electric wires and hoses are removed. But before doing this, you need to remember or note what and where it was originally connected. This is done in order to avoid possible confusion during reinstallation.
There are three bolts on the camshaft belt cover that must be unscrewed and the cover itself removed.
The timing belt is removed and completely retracted.
It is imperative to secure the shafts against possible rotation.
The pulley is attached to the camshaft with bolts that must be unscrewed and then removed.
The nut securing the rear camshaft cover is unscrewed.
Unscrew the remaining screws and completely remove the cover.
Slightly loosen the tension of the ten bolts holding the head.
Then each individual bolt is unscrewed in turn and removed along with the washers.
The head is released and removed.
If the head is attached directly to the gasket, insert a screwdriver or any other long tool. Further, this tool must be used as a lever in order to slightly raise the head, and then completely remove it.
Very carefully, so as not to scratch the surface of the head, it is necessary to remove the remnants of the old gasket. It is best to use a special liquid for this.
We put a new gasket in place.
We make sure that the shafts are in the top dead center position, and all valves on the first cylinder are completely closed.
We put back the bolts.
Using a torque wrench, start tightening the bolts one by one.
We put in place all the removed equipment.
We adjust the valve drive clearances and tension the camshaft belt.

Video (click to play).

As you can see, repairing the cylinder head on a VAZ-2114, which has 8 valves, is a fairly simple, albeit slightly laborious task, which means that everyone who has at least a little idea about this unit can cope with it.

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The cylinder head is removed for its repair, to replace the head gasket, as well as during engine overhauls.

We prepare the car for work and disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery
Drain the coolant from the engine
Removing the air filter
Remove the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold from the engine. If necessary, the cylinder head can be removed as an assembly with parts of the power supply system and the exhaust manifold.
Remove the cylinder head cover
On engines with phased fuel injection, disconnect the wire block from the camshaft position sensor
Disconnect the wiring tips from the coolant temperature sensor For convenience, disconnect the wiring harness block from the knock sensor and move the sensor wiring harness to the side.
Disconnect the tip of the wire from the coolant temperature gauge sensor
Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the nut securing the "ground" wire to the engine and remove the wire tip from the stud.
Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the branch pipe.
We remove the pipe from the pins of the cylinder head and, without disconnecting the hoses, take it to the side.
Remove the sealing gasket from the studs.
Remove the camshaft pulley
We unscrew the nut and bolt of the upper fastening of the rear cover of the timing belt
We remove the oil level indicator.
Using a Torx E14 socket wrench with a narrow head, unscrew the ten bolts securing the cylinder head. Some of the cylinder head bolts can only be loosened with a socket wrench with a narrow head. If such a key is not available, remove the camshaft and then remove the cylinder head bolts.
Pulling the rear cover of the timing belt slightly to the side, remove the cylinder head.
Remove the cylinder head gasket
We take out two guide bushings.

We wash the cylinder head from dirt and deposits with kerosene or diesel fuel.
We remove the remaining oil and coolant from the threaded holes of the cylinder block (for the bolts of the block head).
We clean the resting planes of the head and cylinder block from the remnants of the old gasket, degrease the planes with a solvent. Always use a new gasket when installing the cylinder head. Oil should not come into contact with the surface of the gasket.
We install the guide bushings of the head into the bore of the cylinder block.Tightening sequence of the cylinder head bolts
We put a gasket on the cylinder block, while the guide bushings must go into the corresponding holes in the gasket.
We install the head on the cylinder block. Slightly moving the head from side to side, we ensure that the guide sleeves enter the corresponding holes in the head. Reuse of the cylinder head bolts is only allowed if their length does not exceed 135.5 mm.
We measure the length of the bolts with a caliper or bench ruler. Replace bolts longer than 135.5 mm.
Before tightening, we dip the threaded part of the bolts into engine oil, then let the oil drain, after waiting about half an hour.
We install bolts with washers in the holes of the head.
Using a torque wrench, tighten the head mounting bolts (in the sequence shown in the photo) in four steps: - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 Nm (2 kgfm);

- tighten the bolts with a torque of 69.4–85.7 N · m (7.1–8.7 kgf · m);

- once again turn the bolts 90 °.

11. Further assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

The design of any internal combustion engine, including VAZ 2109 8-valve engines, provides for the following components:

The combustion chamber;
Valve mechanism;
Cast lines;
Exhaust manifolds;
Intake manifolds.

If you perform boring and correct the current state of the manifold and cylinder head channels, you can increase the cylinder filling ratio, which leads to an increase in engine output and power. It is not uncommon for the revision to be performed as the final stage to increase the volume of the internal combustion engine.

Modification of the cylinder head is carried out to achieve the following goals:

Increase the diameter slightly;
Remove defective casting areas;
Correct fillet radii;
Polish the channels.

The geometry of the collectors, together with the cylinder head lines, changes during the revision process. If the work is done incorrectly, you can not only fail to achieve the desired increase in power, but also lose the efficiency of the motor, lead to its rapid wear and tear.

To complete the boring procedure for the cylinder head channels, you will need:

Ball cutter corresponding to the required bore diameter (29, 31, 32 mm);
Sandpaper;
Cones;
Drill;
Calipers;
Smaller hose than bore.

To modify the collectors, it is necessary to complete two main stages of work.Obtain the required channel diameter by milling the collectorsPolish the tract with special tools and devices. To do this, you need to attach medium-grain sandpaper to the hose, and attach the hose to the drill. Due to the rotation of the nozzle inside the bore, the desired effect is achievedWhen performing this operation, the most important thing is to maintain the standard location of the axis of the channels and the shape of the section of the flow path.When modifying collectors, there are a few important rules to follow.

Before starting to bore the cylinder head manifold, be sure to accurately determine the location of the manifolds in relation to the cylinder head. To do this, you need to install a pair of pins.

The diameter of the opening of the inlet pipeline can be made less by 1-1.5 millimeters than the diameter of the counter windows in the head. Largely because of this, many owners of the VAZ 2109 refuse to bore the collectors.

The exhaust manifold openings in diameter can be equal to or larger than the diameter of the cylinder head mating paths by 1-1.5 millimeters.

The cylinder head gasket (cylinder head) is undoubtedly an important part of any car - the VAZ 2114 is no exception - because it is thanks to it that 3 systems remain sealed at once: gas distribution, cooling and lubrication (oil). Hence, it is quite natural that this element is a disposable part, so in case of some kind of malfunction, do not even try to fix it, but immediately replace it.

Bubbles are a sign of leaks, and since the cylinder head gasket must ensure this tightness, most likely, it is in it.

Exhaust gases escape through the cylinder head gasket.

The situation is rare, but possible, especially for those motorists who like to tighten the fastening nuts.

This sign indicates that antifreeze has entered the engine cylinders. Perhaps this hit occurs just through the gasket of their heads. I advise you to read the article: White smoke from the exhaust pipe.

When checking the oil level, a white emulsion like foam is found on the dipstick.

This can happen again due to leaks in the cooling system, which can be the result of a damaged cylinder head gasket or (less often) the presence of a crack in the block itself.

Reduced engine power and increased fuel consumption.

They can be a sign of a variety of breakdowns, including breakdown of the gasket between the cylinders.

The coolant (coolant) is oily.

Like all of the above signs, it does not require an unquestioning replacement of the cylinder head gasket, but calls for a thorough diagnosis.

1. De-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery.

2. Fix the piston of the 1st cylinder in the TDC position.

4. Make sure the supply pressure is low enough. To do this, look at the rear end of the fuel rail for an element that looks like a wheel tire spool with a cap. Unscrew this cap, press on the spool and drain the fuel into a container prepared in advance. Screw the cap back on.

Attention! Be extremely careful and attentive with this item. The first couple of hours after stopping the car, do not even touch the spool, you will burn yourself - the fuel will fly out in the form of a sprayed torch and is quite hot!

5. Disconnect the muffler pipe from the exhaust manifold. To do this, unscrew the nuts securing the bracket with the pipe under the bottom of the car. After removing the bracket, removing the corresponding nuts, remove the clamp and release the front pipe.

6. Remove the cylinder head cover by simultaneously disconnecting the intake and exhaust manifolds, the throttle assembly and the receiver.

7. Loosen the clamp of the air inlet to the throttle pipe and disconnect the plug from the mass air flow sensor, remove the pipe from the throttle assembly with an air intake hose and an air filter.

8. Using a screwdriver and a “10” hex socket, disconnect the hoses coming from the air outlet, loosen all clamps and unscrew all fastening screws together with washers.

9. Disconnect the harness pads from the sensors: throttle position, oil level and pressure, coolant temperature, knock and crankshaft position - as well as the idle speed control and injector harness.

10. Remove the lugs of the explosive wires from the spark plugs.

11. Pull the harness out from under the receiver.

12. After unscrewing the fastening nuts, remove the timing cover, and then the belt itself.

thirteen.Having fixed the camshaft toothed pulley from scrolling, unscrew its fastening bolt together with the washer.

14. Carefully, without touching the oil seal, remove the pulley from the camshaft.

15. Having removed the mounting bolts, dismantle the rear cover of the camshaft drive.

17. Using the hexagon, loosen the cylinder head bolts in sequence - half a turn. And then, in the same sequence, unscrew them to the end. Such slowness and order will exclude the possibility of deformation of the cover.

18. Remove the cylinder head and using a screwdriver, using this tool as a lever, disconnect the cylinder head from the gasket.

19. Clean all surfaces and elements released during the repair, remove oil from the threaded holes.

20. Place a new gasket on the dowel sleeves (the hole for the oil passage in it should take place between the 3rd and 4th cylinders).

21. Make sure that the camshaft and crankshaft are still in the TDC position. To do this, inspect 1 cylinder. Both valves must be closed.

22. Fasten the cylinder head together with the gasket with the retaining bolts, pre-lubricated with a small amount of engine oil. Tighten the bolts in 4 stages as follows:

Stage 1 - with a force of 20 N • m (2 kgf • m);
Stage 2 - with a force of 69.4–85.7 N • m (7.1–8.7 kgf • m);
Stage 3 - rotate 90 degrees;
Stage 4 - finally put the squeeze, turning another 90 degrees.

23. Reassemble all removed items in reverse order.

As you can see, replacing the VAZ 2114 cylinder head gasket is a rather laborious and complicated process, so if after reading this article you still have even the slightest doubts and / or questions, it is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Bubbles are a sign of leaks, and since the cylinder head gasket must ensure this tightness, most likely, it is in it.

Exhaust gases escape through the cylinder head gasket.

The situation is rare, but possible, especially for those motorists who like to tighten the fastening nuts.

When checking the oil level, a white emulsion like foam is found on the dipstick.

This can happen again due to leaks in the cooling system, which can be the result of a damaged cylinder head gasket or (less often) the presence of a crack in the block itself.

Reduced engine power and increased fuel consumption.

They can be a sign of a variety of breakdowns, including breakdown of the gasket between the cylinders.

The coolant (coolant) is oily.

Like all of the above signs, it does not require an unquestioning replacement of the cylinder head gasket, but calls for a thorough diagnosis.

1. De-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery.

2. Fix the piston of the 1st cylinder in the TDC position.

5. Disconnect the muffler pipe from the exhaust manifold. To do this, unscrew the nuts securing the bracket with the pipe under the bottom of the car.After removing the bracket, removing the corresponding nuts, remove the clamp and release the front pipe.

6. Remove the cylinder head cover by simultaneously disconnecting the intake and exhaust manifolds, the throttle assembly and the receiver.

7. Loosen the clamp of the air inlet to the throttle pipe and disconnect the plug from the mass air flow sensor, remove the pipe from the throttle assembly with an air intake hose and an air filter.

8. Using a screwdriver and a “10” hex socket, disconnect the hoses coming from the air outlet, loosen all clamps and unscrew all fastening screws together with washers.

10. Remove the lugs of the explosive wires from the spark plugs.

11. Pull the harness out from under the receiver.

12. After unscrewing the fastening nuts, remove the timing cover, and then the belt itself.

13. Having fixed the camshaft toothed pulley from scrolling, unscrew its fastening bolt together with the washer.

14. Carefully, without touching the oil seal, remove the pulley from the camshaft.

15. Having removed the mounting bolts, dismantle the rear cover of the camshaft drive.

18. Remove the cylinder head and using a screwdriver, using this tool as a lever, disconnect the cylinder head from the gasket.

19. Clean all surfaces and elements released during the repair, remove oil from the threaded holes.

20. Place a new gasket on the dowel sleeves (the hole for the oil passage in it should take place between the 3rd and 4th cylinders).

21. Make sure that the camshaft and crankshaft are still in the TDC position. To do this, inspect 1 cylinder. Both valves must be closed.

22. Fasten the cylinder head together with the gasket with the retaining bolts, pre-lubricated with a small amount of engine oil. Tighten the bolts in 4 stages as follows:

Stage 1 - with a force of 20 N • m (2 kgf • m);
Stage 2 - with a force of 69.4–85.7 N • m (7.1–8.7 kgf • m);
Stage 3 - rotate 90 degrees;
Stage 4 - finally put the squeeze, turning another 90 degrees.

23. Reassemble all removed items in reverse order.

It's no secret that a well-repaired cylinder head is a guarantee of stable, trouble-free engine operation with maximum power output and normal fuel consumption, therefore repair of the VAZ cylinder head should be done with special attention, since any oversight can lead to damage to almost all parts of the engine and new expensive repairs. This article will describe in detail the repair of the VAZ cylinder head with your own hands, tips are given that are not in the books.

Since any repair begins with the removal of the part being repaired, we will briefly describe it. In order not to forget, and not to be surprised when disassembling, it is necessary to drain the coolant from the engine before starting the repair. To remove the cylinder head, you first need to remove the air filter, carburetor, having previously disconnected all wires and hoses from it.
After all this has been done, remove the cylinder head cover, align the marks on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the camshaft drive cover and the mark on the sprocket or pulley (in the figure below, the asterisk) of the camshaft with the mark on its body.

On the left is shown the installation of the crankshaft mark. On the right is the installation of the camshaft mark.

Then you should loosen the chain tensioner, unbend the camshaft sprocket bolt lock washer, unscrew the bolt (preferably with a jerk), carefully remove the sprocket from the camshaft and tie it with wire or something else to the chain. Now you can unscrew the camshaft nuts and remove it together with the housing. The next step is to remove the rockers, for this they must be pulled off the adjusting bolts and removed from the springs. Before removing the rockers, you need to mark with a marker or notches, so that each one sits in its place during assembly, then the running-in with the camshaft journals and the heads of the adjusting bolts will not be disturbed. Now you need to disconnect the wires from the spark plugs, from the coolant temperature sensor, disconnect the hoses from the cylinder head, unscrew the nuts securing the front pipe to the exhaust manifold and remove it. Next, unscrew the bolts with which the head is attached to the block. The cylinder head can now be removed for repair.
After removing the cylinder head, for the convenience of further work, its surface must be washed from all kinds of dirt and carbon deposits.

Repair of the VAZ cylinder head begins with drying out the valves. For this, the tool shown in the figure below can be used.

Valve Dryer

It is advisable to put the valves in their places or mark them so that in case of slight wear you can put everything in place. Now you should carefully inspect the cylinder head for cracks, pits, potholes, corrosion, assess the wear of the seats and guides, the latter usually have to be changed after about 150-200 thousand kilometers. If, as a result of the inspection, no defects were found that could interfere with the repair, then you can continue.

So, if the guide bushings are worn out, then we proceed to replace them, they can be removed using a special device, the drawing of which is shown below.

Mandrel for knocking out the guide bushings

It is advisable, when pressing out the bushings, to immediately measure their outer diameter with a micrometer and write down, so that when buying new ones, go to a car shop with the same measuring tool and pick up a diameter of 0.05-0.07 more than your family. pressing them in, for this we need: an electric stove, a mandrel for pressing the guide bushings, shown in the figure below, a hammer, machine oil.

Mandrel for pressing the guide bushings

We put the head of the block on some kind of stand along the edges, tuck the tile under the place where we will work, heat it up to 100C, while heating is on, grease the bushings with oil (or even better, put them in the freezer before that), remove from the stands and drive in there new guides. If these requirements are met, the bushings will go "like to their home" and you will not spoil anything. After replacing all eight, it is necessary to let the head cool down and then expand the inner diameter under the valves so that they do not dangle, but move freely, do not jam or jam, otherwise the entire head repair may go down the drain. [Reklama3]

I want to warn against a mistake that many make when working with a sweep: with this tool they work only in one direction with a passage to the end. In no case try to unfold the guide from both sides, this will not lead to anything good!

Now you can start the most painful work, the good performance of which largely determines the tightness of the valve to the seat and the entire cylinder head repair - countersinking. Usually they work with this tool in the following sequence: first, they pass the output cutter (the one on which 60 degrees is written) until the metal layer begins to be removed in a circle, then they take 120 degrees and cut it off until a clear round edge appears ... The last one, the one that is 90 degrees, all that remains is to make a working chamfer, the thickness of which should be 1.5-2 mm, it is advisable to make about 1.5, because when the valves are lapped in, it will increase slightly.A well countersunk saddle should look something like the illustration.

Repair of the VAZ cylinder head - View of a properly shaken saddle

Now it remains to grind the valves so that they fit as tightly as possible to the seats. This is done as follows: go to a car store, buy a special lapping paste (it is quite inexpensive), smear the valve on it, insert it into the head. Further, there are 2 ways of how to rotate it, while pressing it against the saddle: one is "old-fashioned", the other is more modern.
Let's start with the grandfather's. Find a piece of hose of such a diameter that it fits snugly on the valve, squeeze it between your palms and begin to rotate it in one direction or the other. A more modern device for holding the valve is shown in the figure below, it is not difficult to make it.

Tool for grinding cylinder head valves

An external indicator that the valve has rubbed in is the matte surface of the seat and valve at the point of contact, and it should be in a circle, not interrupted. After repair, the tightness of the cylinder head can be checked by pouring a little kerosene or gasoline into the intake and exhaust manifolds. With a well-performed work on the repair of the cylinder head, leaks and dampness from under the valves of the cylinder head are not observed for 5-7 minutes.
Finally, I can only remind you, do not forget to put the valve stem seals. And yet, do not forget to rinse and clean all the parts after repairs immediately before assembling the head, then the motor of your VAZ will last for more than one hundred thousand kilometers.

How to wash the cylinder head from carbon deposits? How to clean carbon deposits from block head valves?

If you are in a hurry, then you should first clean off the carbon deposits as much as possible with some object, the main thing is not to scratch the cylinder head, and then wash off the residues with a carburetor cleaning fluid, while walking with sandpaper similar to a piece of felt, this is sold in car dealerships, it is also similar the one used to clean the pots, usually on one side of the sponge.
And if there is time, then pour the solvent into the not yet disassembled head and leave it for a day, after that it is possible to clean the carbon deposits with the help of an ordinary molar brush, as if the oil is washed off.

author, tell me in what sequence to stretch the head of the block?

the cylinder head bolts are pulled in the sequence shown in the figure

is it possible to make a cylinder head if the rails are loose?

Can. But that will take a lot of shopping bustle. They sometimes contain repair guides for cylinder head valves. Here they can fit perfectly into your block head. Another option is to buy defective guides with a large outer diameter, this also occurs. I will give figures from the practice of repairing such a head from the Ural motorcycle. The diameter of the normal guide is 13.1 mm, I went through a lot of such bushings in the store and found it with a diameter of 13.3 mm. I went in perfect. So be guided by the search for a guide that is larger than the standard one by 0.15-0.2 mm. Do not forget to be sure to heat the head before pressing in the sleeve and grease the guide with oil and put it in the freezer, then it will come in even easier.

what is the pressure in the cylinder of the VAZ 2107?

Normal compression in the cylinders of VAZ cars is 11-12 atmospheres. You can check with a compressometer on a warm engine, with the spark plugs turned out and the throttle valve open (press the gas pedal all the way).

is it possible to change the valves on a VAZ 2106 without removing the block head?

Video (click to play).

No, this is not possible, because even if you pull the pistons out of the block, the cylinder head valves will still not come out completely and will rest against the cylinder walls. And in general, is it worth it to scoff at yourself, it is easier to remove the head, the more the valves need to be ground after replacement.

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