Do-it-yourself cylinder head repair VAZ 21213 8 valves

In detail: repair of the cylinder head of a VAZ 21213 8 valves with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We remove the cylinder head to replace the gasket, repair the valve drive mechanism and the head itself, as well as when the engine is completely disassembled.

We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or a lift.

To replace the head gasket or the connecting rod-piston group of the engine, the cylinder head is removed from the engine complete with a receiver, an intake pipe and an exhaust manifold.
To dismantle the cylinder head:

disconnect the negative battery cable;
drain the coolant (see Replacing the coolant);
remove the throttle assembly (see Removing the throttle assembly);
disconnect the hoses from the outlet of the cooling jacket;
disconnect the hose from the heater radiator inlet pipe;
we disconnect the connector of the wires of the fuel rail injectors (see Removing the fuel rail);
disconnect the connectors from the coolant temperature sensor of the injection system and the sensor of the coolant temperature gauge;
remove the tips of high-voltage wires from the spark plugs;
disconnect the fuel supply and return pipes from the fuel rail;
disconnect the intake pipe from the exhaust manifold (see Removing the intake pipe), the starter heat shield and the heater radiator outlet pipe bracket (see Replacing the gasket of the intake pipe and exhaust manifold of an injection engine);
remove the camshaft and valve drive levers (see Removing the camshaft and valve drive levers of the injection engine);
remove the camshaft sprocket, and tie the chain with wire.

Video (click to play).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the cylinder head mounting bolt located next to the ignition module bracket.

Using the "12" head, unscrew the ten bolts securing the head to the cylinder block.

Remove the cylinder head assembly with an exhaust manifold, a receiver and an intake pipe with a fuel rail.

The cylinder head can also be removed from the engine by first dismantling the receiver (see Removing the reservoir of the injection engine), the inlet pipe and the exhaust manifold (see Replacing the gasket of the intake pipe and exhaust manifold of the injection engine).

Remove the cylinder head without an exhaust manifold and an intake pipe.

Remove the cylinder head gasket.

We install the cylinder head on the workbench.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the two fastening nuts to the head of the heater radiator inlet pipe.

Remove the gasket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the outlet branch pipe of the cooling system jacket.

... and remove the pipe with the coolant temperature sensor of the injection system.

Remove the branch pipe gasket.

When disassembling the valve train.

... we put a stop - a wooden block under the plate of the valve to be dried.

... and remove the valve from the cylinder head guide sleeve.

We dismantle other valves in the same way.
The assembly and installation of the cylinder head is carried out in the reverse order.
Before installing the valves, we clean them of carbon deposits and lubricate the valve stems with engine oil.
Assembling the valve train.

... we apply a blow to the ends of the valves with a hammer with a plastic striker for more reliable fixation of the crackers (the wooden stop must be removed from under the valve disc).

Before installing the cooling system pipes, we clean the mating surfaces of the pipes and the block head from the remnants of old gaskets.
We install new pipe gaskets by applying a thin layer of sealant to them.
We clean the mating surfaces of the head and cylinder block from the remnants of the old gasket, dirt and oil.
Using a syringe with a needle or a rubber bulb, remove oil and coolant from the mounting holes of the cylinder block.

The gasket and the cylinder head are installed on two centering sleeves.

Installing the head on the cylinder block, we pass the chain through the wire through the hole in the head.

After installing the cylinder head bolts, tighten them in the order shown in the figure.

To ensure a reliable seal and eliminate the need to tighten the bolts when servicing the car, tighten the bolts in four steps:

1st method - tighten bolts 1-10 with a torque of 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m);
2nd method - tighten bolts 1–10 with a torque of 69.4–85.7 Nm (7.1–8.7 kgfm), and bolt 11 - with a torque of 31.4–39.1 Nm ( 3.2-4.60 kgf.m).
Then we turn bolts 1-10 by 90 ° (3rd reception) and another 90 ° (4th reception).

As we have already found out, the cylinder head is one of the most important engine components. If you feel confident and have the skills to use a locksmith tool, then broaching the cylinder head will not be difficult. It remains to decide for what and how to draw the cylinder head.

Maybe not all motorists know, but modern cars do not need preventive broaching of the cylinder head.

Previously, the cylinder head broaching was a mandatory item of the first maintenance, then the situation changed. Even relatively modern VAZ engines. Broaching the cylinder head is mainly required today for old models of VAZ, UAZ, Moskvich, etc. engines.

The main reason that prompts the owner of the car to think about the need to broach the cylinder head is "sputum" at the junction of the head and the block. This indicates an existing oil leak.

There may be several reasons. The most traditional: failure of the cylinder head gasket, warpage of the cylinder head as a result of engine overheating unnoticed by you, or initially incorrectly tightened cylinder head bolts. If you got a "kapitalku" at a car service.

In fact, many masters recommend after repairing the cylinder head, after a thousand km. align the tightening torque.

From the study. It is from the study of the Manual for the repair of your car, preferably the original one. It is there that the manufacturer indicates everything that is needed to tighten the cylinder head. But you need to know:

the order (diagram) of tightening the cylinder head bolts;
what torque is required;
what bolts are used to tighten the cylinder head.

Bolts for tightening the cylinder head are a special conversation. The fact is that in modern engines, bolts with special characteristics are used for the cylinder head. The so-called "spring" bolts, which, due to their properties after the initial pull at the factory, do not need additional.

Moreover, when trying to pull the cylinder head bolts, due to the "fluidity" of the metal, they will stretch. As a result, you can get a break in the bolt.

During cylinder head repair, gaskets must be installed that do not shrink. This eliminates the need to pull the cylinder head bolts.

But, if you have already decided that broaching the cylinder head bolts is extremely necessary for you, then it should be done with the "manual" from the manufacturer and using a torque wrench. Motion in motion, digit to digit. Amateur performance on the basis of "reserve" is not needed here.

To keep your soul calm, and as soon as you decide to broach the head bolts, there is a method for controlling the tightening torque of the cylinder head bolts. Naturally with a torque wrench.

A moment is applied to the bolt, equal to the moment of the bolt breaking away. After the start of the turn, you need to control the moment of starting. If it has not increased, then everything is in order, the bolt began to stretch.

If the moment starts to rise, it means that the bolt has not reached the yield point. Here you need to tighten the cylinder head bolt until the tightening torque stabilizes.

When checking the tightening of the cylinder head bolts, pay attention to two things. If a torque of 20 kgGcm is applied to the bolt, but the yield point has not been reached, then the bolt must be replaced, since it has increased strength.

If, at the moment of tightening the bolt, you saw that the moment decreases, then this means the destruction of the bolt, and it definitely requires replacement.

Such requirements for the cylinder head bolts can be easily explained: they work in a constant heating - cooling mode.

All other features and recommendations that require tightening the cylinder head bolts, read in a specific Manual for a specific car.

Good luck, and may the do-it-yourself cylinder head bolt tightening work well.

Sectional view of the cylinder head by the exhaust valve: 1 - cylinder head; 2 - valve; 3 - slinger cap; 4 - valve lever: 5 - camshaft bearing housing; 6 - a camshaft; 7 - an adjusting bolt; 8 - lock nut of the adjusting bolt; A - the gap between the lever and the camshaft cam

Video (click to play).

Main dimensions of valves, guides and valve seats
Valve train parts: 1 - valve; 2 - retaining ring; 3 - guide sleeve; 4 - slinger cap; 5 - support washer of the outer spring; 6 - lock washer of the inner spring; 7 - internal spring; 8 - outer spring; 9 - plate of springs; 10 - crackers; 11 - valve drive lever; 12 - lever spring; 13 - an adjusting bolt; 14 - lock nut of the adjusting bolt; 15 - bushing of the adjusting bolt; 16 - lever spring lock plate

Basic data for checking the outer (a) and inner (b) valve springs
We remove the cylinder head to replace the gasket, repair the valve drive mechanism and the head itself, as well as when the engine is completely disassembled.

To replace the head gasket or the connecting rod-piston group of the engine, the cylinder head is removed from the engine complete with a receiver, an intake pipe and an exhaust manifold.

To dismantle the cylinder head:

disconnect the negative battery cable;

drain the coolant (see here);

remove the throttle assembly (see here);

disconnect the hoses from the outlet of the cooling jacket;

disconnect the hose from the heater radiator inlet pipe;

disconnect the connector of the wires of the fuel rail injectors (see here);

disconnect the connectors from the coolant temperature sensor of the injection system and the sensor of the coolant temperature gauge;

remove the tips of high-voltage wires from the spark plugs;

disconnect the fuel supply and return pipes from the fuel rail;

disconnect the intake pipe from the exhaust manifold (see here), the heat shield of the starter and the bracket for the outlet pipe of the heater radiator (see here);

remove the camshaft and valve drive levers (see here);

remove the camshaft sprocket, and tie the chain with wire.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the cylinder head mounting bolt located next to the ignition module bracket.

Using the "12" head, unscrew the ten bolts securing the head to the cylinder block.

Remove the cylinder head assembly with an exhaust manifold, a receiver and an intake pipe with a fuel rail.

The cylinder head can also be removed from the engine by first dismantling the receiver (see here), inlet pipe and exhaust manifold (see here).

Remove the cylinder head without an exhaust manifold and an intake pipe.

Remove the cylinder head gasket.

We install the cylinder head on the workbench.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the two fastening nuts to the head of the heater radiator inlet pipe.

Remove the gasket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the outlet branch pipe of the cooling system jacket.

... and remove the pipe with the coolant temperature sensor of the injection system.

Remove the branch pipe gasket.

When disassembling the valve train.

... we put a stop - a wooden block under the plate of the valve to be dried.

... and remove the valve from the cylinder head guide sleeve.

We dismantle other valves in the same way.

The assembly and installation of the cylinder head is carried out in the reverse order.
Before installing the valves, we clean them of carbon deposits and lubricate the valve stems with engine oil.

Assembling the valve train.

... we apply a blow to the ends of the valves with a hammer with a plastic striker for more reliable fixation of the crackers (the wooden stop must be removed from under the valve disc).

Before installing the cooling system pipes, we clean the mating surfaces of the pipes and the block head from the remnants of old gaskets.

We install new pipe gaskets by applying a thin layer of sealant to them.

We clean the mating surfaces of the head and cylinder block from the remnants of the old gasket, dirt and oil.

Using a syringe with a needle or a rubber bulb, remove oil and coolant from the mounting holes of the cylinder block.

The gasket and the cylinder head are installed on two centering sleeves.

Installing the head on the cylinder block, we pass the chain through the wire through the hole in the head.

After installing the cylinder head bolts, tighten them in the order shown in the figure.

To ensure a reliable seal and eliminate the need to tighten the bolts when servicing the car, tighten the bolts in four steps:

1st method - tighten bolts 1-10 with a torque of 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m);
2nd method - tighten bolts 1–10 with a torque of 69.4–85.7 Nm (7.1–8.7 kgfm), and bolt 11 - with a torque of 31.4–39.1 Nm ( 3.2-4.60 kgf.m).
Then we turn bolts 1-10 by 90 ° (3rd reception) and another 90 ° (4th reception).

Even with a gentle mode of operation, the cylinder head of the engine sooner or later requires repair. For domestic SUVs, this issue is especially relevant.
1. "Niva" is not bought for trips to the Bolshoi Theater on city roads.
2. Domestic off-road is not a testing ground with calibrated obstacles, the loads on the car and engine are serious.
3. The quality of fuel and lubricants, unfortunately, does not contribute to extending the life of the cylinder head.

You can watch the video signs of malfunction:

The main reason that prompts the owner of the car to think about the need to broach the cylinder head is "sputum" at the junction of the head and the block. This indicates an existing oil leak.

There may be several reasons. The most traditional: failure of the cylinder head gasket, warpage of the cylinder head as a result of engine overheating unnoticed by you, or initially incorrectly tightened cylinder head bolts. If you got a "kapitalku" at a car service.

In fact, many masters recommend after repairing the cylinder head, after a thousand km.align the tightening torque.

From the study. It is from the study of the Manual for the repair of your car, preferably the original one. It is there that the manufacturer indicates everything that is needed to tighten the cylinder head. But you need to know:

the order (diagram) of tightening the cylinder head bolts;

what torque is required;

what bolts are used to tighten the cylinder head.

Bolts for tightening the cylinder head are a special conversation. The fact is that in modern engines, bolts with special characteristics are used for the cylinder head. The so-called "spring" bolts, which, due to their properties after the initial pull at the factory, do not need additional.

Moreover, when trying to pull the cylinder head bolts, due to the "fluidity" of the metal, they will stretch. As a result, you can get a break in the bolt.

During cylinder head repair, gaskets must be installed that do not shrink. This eliminates the need to pull the cylinder head bolts.

But, if you have already decided that broaching the cylinder head bolts is extremely necessary for you, then it should be done with the "manual" from the manufacturer and using a torque wrench. Motion in motion, digit to digit. Amateur performance on the basis of "reserve" is not needed here.

To keep your soul calm, and as soon as you decide to broach the head bolts, there is a method for controlling the tightening torque of the cylinder head bolts. Naturally with a torque wrench.

A moment is applied to the bolt, equal to the moment of the bolt breaking away. After the start of the turn, you need to control the moment of starting. If it has not increased, then everything is in order, the bolt began to stretch.

If the moment starts to rise, it means that the bolt has not reached the yield point. Here you need to tighten the cylinder head bolt until the tightening torque stabilizes.

When checking the tightening of the cylinder head bolts, pay attention to two things. If a torque of 20 kgGcm is applied to the bolt, but the yield point has not been reached, then the bolt must be replaced, since it has increased strength.

If, at the moment of tightening the bolt, you saw that the moment decreases, then this means the destruction of the bolt, and it definitely requires replacement.

Such requirements for the cylinder head bolts can be easily explained: they work in a constant heating - cooling mode.

All other features and recommendations that require tightening the cylinder head bolts, read in a specific Manual for a specific car.

Good luck, and may the do-it-yourself cylinder head bolt tightening work well.

Symptoms: oil leak from under the cylinder head.

Possible reason: the cylinder head gasket is worn out.

Tools: a set of wrenches, a set of screwdrivers, sliding pliers, a torque wrench.

Note. The most convenient way to dismantle the engine block head is assembled with a carburetor and manifolds (intake and exhaust).

1. Place the vehicle on an inspection pit or overpass.

2. In order to facilitate the work, remove the battery from the vehicle.

3. Drain the working fluid from the engine cooling system.

4. Remove the wire tip from the coolant temperature gauge gauge electrical connector.

5. Disconnect the exhaust manifold and the downpipe of the exhaust system.

6. Remove the air filter housing from the car.

7. Disconnect the air damper drive rod from the carburetor, then disconnect the fuel hose, then the crankcase ventilation hose, and then the vacuum ignition timing regulator. Disconnect the wire connector from the solenoid valve.

8. Install the fourth cylinder piston at compression top dead center.

9. Dismantle the bearing housing assembly with the camshaft, and do not forget to mark the position of the valve drive levers. After that, remove the levers of the valve drive together with the springs.

10.Use a wire to tie the chain up and pass it through the window in the engine cylinder head.

11. Dismantle the ignition distributor together with the high voltage wires.

12. Remove the spark plugs from the spark plug holes.

13. Remove the top nut holding the starter heat shield.

14. Remove from the stud screwed into the intake manifold, the end of the wire "weight".

15. Remove the heating hose from the inlet pipe union.

16. Remove the brake booster hose from the inlet pipe union.

17. Loosen the clamps, and then remove the thermostat bypass hose, as well as the radiator inlet hose of the engine cooling system.

18. Disconnect the coolant supply hose to the heater radiator from the branch pipe, after loosening its fastening clamp.

19. Using a 12-inch socket wrench with extension, remove the ten internal bolts securing the cylinder head to the engine block.

20. Using a 13 ”socket wrench, remove the outer bolt securing the cylinder head to the engine block.

21. Remove the engine cylinder head assembly with intake and exhaust manifolds and carburetor from the car.

22. Remove the gasket of the joint between the BC and the cylinder head from the two centering bushings.

23. Install a new gasket and then the head on the engine block in reverse order, passing a wire with a chain through the windows.

24. Check the alignment of the labels.

25. Before screwing in the cylinder head mounting bolts, lubricate them with engine oil and wait at least 30 minutes. This is necessary so that excess oil is drained from them.

Note. The old cylinder head mounting bolts may only be reused if they have not been extended to more than 115.5 millimeters. If the length exceeds the specified, the bolts must be replaced with new ones.

26. Tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts in four steps:

- pre-tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts to a torque of 20 N ∙ m;

- tighten the bolts to a torque of 69.4 N ∙ m;

- tighten the bolts 90 degrees;

- Tighten the bolts 90 degrees again.

27. Install the bearing housing assembly with the camshaft on the engine block head studs, and then tighten the retaining nuts evenly.

28. Untie the wire and then install the sprocket pulley and chain onto the camshaft. Screw in the sprocket mounting bolt, then lock it by bending the tab of the lock washer.

29. Charge the timing chain tensioner, then install it in its original place, and then discharge it again.

30. Adjust the drive chain.

31. Adjust the valve drive clearances.

32. Adjust the alternator drive belt.

33. Install the ignition distributor, directing the slider contact to the high-voltage terminal of the fourth cylinder.

34. Check and, if necessary, adjust the ignition timing.

35. Install all removed parts in reverse order.

36. Refill the engine cooling system.

I think that many owners of both Niva and other Lada models, such as the VAZ 2106 or 2107, faced the problem of oil leakage or even antifreeze at the junction of the cylinder head and block. Often, this problem can be solved by stretching the cylinder head bolts with a certain moment using a torque wrench. But if this does not help, then the gasket must be replaced. So, to perform this repair, you will need the following tool:

Open-end wrenches for 10 and 13

Long knob

Extension cords (several pieces of different sizes)

Hammer

Torque wrench

Ratchet handles

Flat screwdriver

I must say right away that I carried out this work on the removed engine in order to make it easier to prepare this manual. First of all, unscrew all the valve cover mounting bolts:

Then carefully lift it up and remove the rubber gasket, approximately as shown in the photo below:

Then you need to unscrew the camshaft gear with a 17 key:

And by lightly hitting it on the back with a hammer, it should easily come off, after which we remove the chain from it:

Next, you can start unscrewing the Niva camshaft bolts, for which you can completely do with a spanner wrench:

Then carefully remove the camshaft assembly from the studs, lifting it up from the head:

Now you can start unscrewing the 10 bolts securing the Niva cylinder head. This will require a long knob and extension bar to create a decent lever.

And you will need to unscrew another bolt, which can be unscrewed with a ratchet with a head of 13. This is how it looks, as shown in the photo below:

And now you can carefully remove the head by grasping its body from below:

Most likely, the gasket will stick thoroughly to the head, so you have to pry it off with a screwdriver and remove it.

And after all this, it is necessary to thoroughly clean both the head and the block itself from traces of the old gasket and other contaminants, and it is advisable to degrease the whole thing so that the surface is perfectly dry and clean.

We install a new cylinder head gasket and put the head back. And then you just need a torque wrench to tighten the bolts with a certain moment of force. They must be pulled in a strictly defined order, as shown in the pictorial diagram below:

And now the most important thing. The head on the VAZ engine is pulled in two steps:

The first method: a moment of force from 33-41 N * m.

The second is from 95 to 118 N * m.

That is, first, in the above sequence, we tighten the cylinder head bolts from moments of about 40 Newtons, and the second time we finally tighten them up to 118 Newtons maximum. I could not tighten up to such a moment, since I only have a scale of 110 N * m on the Ombra key.

Having finally tightened all the connections, we install all the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

It's no secret that a well-repaired cylinder head is a guarantee of stable, trouble-free engine operation with maximum power output and normal fuel consumption, therefore repair of the VAZ cylinder head should be done with special attention, since any oversight can lead to damage to almost all parts of the engine and new expensive repairs. This article will describe in detail the repair of the VAZ cylinder head with your own hands, tips are given that are not in the books.

Since any repair begins with the removal of the part being repaired, we will briefly describe it. In order not to forget, and not to be surprised when disassembling, it is necessary to drain the coolant from the engine before starting the repair. To remove the cylinder head, you first need to remove the air filter, carburetor, having previously disconnected all wires and hoses from it.
After all this has been done, remove the cylinder head cover, align the marks on the crankshaft pulley with the mark on the camshaft drive cover and the mark on the sprocket or pulley (in the figure below, the asterisk) of the camshaft with the mark on its body.
On the left is shown the installation of the crankshaft mark. On the right is the installation of the camshaft mark.
Then you should loosen the chain tensioner, unbend the camshaft sprocket bolt lock washer, unscrew the bolt (preferably with a jerk), carefully remove the sprocket from the camshaft and tie it with wire or something else to the chain. Now you can unscrew the camshaft nuts and remove it together with the housing. The next step is to remove the rockers, for this they must be pulled off the adjusting bolts and removed from the springs. Before removing the rockers, you need to mark with a marker or notches, so that each one sits in its place during assembly, then the running-in with the camshaft journals and the heads of the adjusting bolts will not be disturbed.Now you need to disconnect the wires from the spark plugs, from the coolant temperature sensor, disconnect the hoses from the cylinder head, unscrew the nuts securing the front pipe to the exhaust manifold and remove it. Next, unscrew the bolts with which the head is attached to the block. The cylinder head can now be removed for repair.
After removing the cylinder head, for the convenience of further work, its surface must be washed from all kinds of dirt and carbon deposits.

Repair of the VAZ cylinder head begins with drying out the valves. For this, the tool shown in the figure below can be used.

Valve Dryer
It is advisable to put the valves in their places or mark them so that in case of slight wear you can put everything in place. Now you should carefully inspect the cylinder head for cracks, pits, potholes, corrosion, assess the wear of the seats and guides, the latter usually have to be changed after about 150-200 thousand kilometers. If, as a result of the inspection, no defects were found that could interfere with the repair, then you can continue.

So, if the guide bushings are worn out, then we proceed to replace them, they can be removed using a special device, the drawing of which is shown below.

Mandrel for knocking out the guide bushings
It is advisable, when pressing out the bushings, to immediately measure their outer diameter with a micrometer and write down, so that when buying new ones, go to a car shop with the same measuring tool and pick up a diameter of 0.05-0.07 more than your family. pressing them in, for this we need: an electric stove, a mandrel for pressing the guide bushings, shown in the figure below, a hammer, machine oil.

Mandrel for pressing the guide bushings
We put the head of the block on some kind of stand along the edges, tuck the tile under the place where we will work, heat it up to 100C, while heating is on, grease the bushings with oil (or even better, put them in the freezer before that), remove from the stands and drive in there new guides. If these requirements are met, the bushings will go "like to their home" and you will not spoil anything. After replacing all eight, it is necessary to let the head cool down and then expand the inner diameter under the valves so that they do not dangle, but move freely, do not jam or jam, otherwise the entire head repair may go down the drain. [Reklama3]

I want to warn against a mistake that many make when working with a sweep: with this tool they work only in one direction with a passage to the end. In no case try to unfold the guide from both sides, this will not lead to anything good!

Now you can start the most painful work, the good performance of which largely determines the tightness of the valve to the seat and the entire cylinder head repair - countersinking. Usually they work with this tool in the following sequence: first, they pass the output cutter (the one on which 60 degrees is written) until the metal layer begins to be removed in a circle, then they take 120 degrees and cut it off until a clear round edge appears ... The last one, the one that is 90 degrees, all that remains is to make a working chamfer, the thickness of which should be 1.5-2 mm, it is advisable to make about 1.5, because when the valves are lapped in, it will increase slightly. A well countersunk saddle should look something like the illustration.

Repair of the VAZ cylinder head - View of a properly shaken saddle
Now it remains to grind the valves so that they fit as tightly as possible to the seats. This is done as follows: go to a car store, buy a special lapping paste (it is quite inexpensive), smear the valve on it, insert it into the head. Further, there are 2 ways of how to rotate it, while pressing it against the saddle: one is "old-fashioned", the other is more modern.
Let's start with the grandfather's.Find a piece of hose of such a diameter that it fits snugly on the valve, squeeze it between your palms and begin to rotate it in one direction or the other. A more modern device for holding the valve is shown in the figure below, it is not difficult to make it.

Tool for grinding cylinder head valves
An external indicator that the valve has rubbed in is the matte surface of the seat and valve at the point of contact, and it should be in a circle, not interrupted. After repair, the tightness of the cylinder head can be checked by pouring a little kerosene or gasoline into the intake and exhaust manifolds. With a well-performed work on the repair of the cylinder head, leaks and dampness from under the valves of the cylinder head are not observed for 5-7 minutes.
Finally, I can only remind you, do not forget to put the valve stem seals. And yet, do not forget to rinse and clean all the parts after repairs immediately before assembling the head, then the motor of your VAZ will last for more than one hundred thousand kilometers.

How to wash the cylinder head from carbon deposits? How to clean carbon deposits from block head valves?

If you are in a hurry, then you should first clean off the carbon deposits as much as possible with some object, the main thing is not to scratch the cylinder head, and then wash off the residues with a carburetor cleaning fluid, while walking with sandpaper similar to a piece of felt, this is sold in car dealerships, it is also similar the one used to clean the pots, usually on one side of the sponge.
And if there is time, then pour the solvent into the not yet disassembled head and leave it for a day, after that it is possible to clean the carbon deposits with the help of an ordinary molar brush, as if the oil is washed off.

author, tell me in what sequence to stretch the head of the block?

the cylinder head bolts are pulled in the sequence shown in the figure

is it possible to make a cylinder head if the rails are loose?

Can. But that will take a lot of shopping bustle. They sometimes contain repair guides for cylinder head valves. Here they can fit perfectly into your block head. Another option is to buy defective guides with a large outer diameter, this also occurs. I will give figures from the practice of repairing such a head from the Ural motorcycle. The diameter of the normal guide is 13.1 mm, I went through a lot of such bushings in the store and found it with a diameter of 13.3 mm. I went in perfect. So be guided by the search for a guide that is larger than the standard one by 0.15-0.2 mm. Do not forget to be sure to heat the head before pressing in the sleeve and grease the guide with oil and put it in the freezer, then it will come in even easier.

what is the pressure in the cylinder of the VAZ 2107?

Normal compression in the cylinders of VAZ cars is 11-12 atmospheres. You can check with a compressometer on a warm engine, with the spark plugs turned out and the throttle valve open (press the gas pedal all the way).

is it possible to change the valves on a VAZ 2106 without removing the block head?

No, this is not possible, because even if you pull the pistons out of the block, the cylinder head valves will still not come out completely and will rest against the cylinder walls. And in general, is it worth it to scoff at yourself, it is easier to remove the head, the more the valves need to be ground after replacement.

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