DIY g222 generator repair

In my vaz2107, the battery charge voltage disappeared, because the generator did not work. I dismantled the faulty G222 generator (aka G221 with a slightly modified rear cover - there is another threaded hole for attaching the Y112V relay).

Relay Ya112V is also a "tablet", it is a "chocolate" and is usually sold complete with brushes, if the brushes are not worked out, then there is no point in buying new ones.
According to the auto repair manual, I checked the relay, as a result of which an open circuit was found in the relay circuit. There was another relay available, which recently came out of standing on the same car. I wondered what was going on and decided to open both. The relay turned out to be of two types.

4 ohms and everything fell into place. An autopsy revealed that there was an interturn short circuit of the wires between the layers of the excitation winding. I replaced the rotor with a rotor from the G221 generator. The assembly took place at lightning speed. I repeated everything from beginning to end. The problem has been resolved. It all took about 3 days. To preserve the purity of thought, beer was not taken.

there was also a relay made on conventional parts, in which only the KT837F output transistor had to be replaced, the rest of the transistors were intact.
I replaced it like this: I drilled a rivet, bent the transistor so that it did not touch the metal plate, soldered it off the board. On the new transistor, I bent the legs like a burned out one, both in shape and in length. On the reverse side of the transistor, I applied a small amount of KPT-8 heat-conducting paste, soldered the transistor to the board, and instead of a rivet, pressed the transistor with a screw and nut. The screw was used with a head in “tie”, the nut was soldered to the transistor, and the screw head to the metal plate.

Regarding the parameters of stators and rotors of generators of various types:
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Resistance of rotors, number of turns wire diameter

G221 = 4.3+0.2 ohm 500+3 0.69 mm
G222 = 3.7+0.2 ohm 460+3 0.71 mm
37.3701 = 2,6+0.1 ohm 420+6 0.80 mm
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Stator, number of turns wire diameter

D221 = 10 1.25 mm
G222 = 9.0 0.95 mm
37.3701 = 8.5 1.00 mm
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This unit is in question

To provide electrical energy to the electrical appliances of a VAZ 2105 car, as well as to recharge its battery while the engine is running, a generator is present in the car. Until 1987, units of the G 222 model were installed in the VAZ 2105, and later - the 37.3701 model. In both cases, the generator is a three-phase electrodynamic device, in which the sinusoidal voltage of each of the phases is rectified using a built-in rectifier. This part is a three-phase diode bridge of the VAZ generator, consisting of six silicon diodes. The voltage is produced by exciting the rectifier with three stator windings when changing the rotor poles under them. The rotor poles change polarity during its rotation inside the stator, and to increase the value of the magnetic fluxes, it has an electromagnetic excitation winding inside the magnetic cores. The rotor rotates through a belt drive from the front pulley of the engine crankshaft (injector) together with the pulley of the coolant pump.

The electrical circuit of the VAZ 21053 car differs from the instrument circuit of the model 2105 in that it has an electronic engine control system (ECM) and various additional sensors. Therefore, on the VAZ 21053, the power supply system has a different form of terminals than in 2105. The ignition switch of the first model, when the starter is turned on, turns off the secondary circuits and devices.

In general, the VAZ 21053 and 2105 generators are identical.But how to connect a generator to a VAZ 21053, because in this model the injector needs more power of the generated current? And how to connect a generator from "ten" for 80 A? The fastening, wiring diagram for the VAZ 21053 are the same with it, so there will not be a particular problem here.

The generator body consists of two aluminum alloy covers, tightened by four bolts and nuts, between which a round stator core is clamped. The rotor bearings are installed in the covers: the front one is in the through, the rear one is in the blind seat of the cover. The rotor rotates inside the stator and housing on two bearings. At the front end it has a slot for a key, a thread for a fan nut. An adjusting washer is installed between the front rotor and the front bearing, which is often forgotten when repairing the generator. At the rear end of the rotor shaft, in front of the rear bearing, two copper slip rings are pressed, isolated from the shaft and connected to the ends of the field winding.

A BPV6-50 rectifier is installed to the inside of the rear cover. It consists of two insulated horseshoe-shaped aluminum busbars, into which three VA-20 silicon diodes (valves) are pressed. The inner bus is isolated from the case, but connected to the generator terminal “30” bolt, while the other is in contact with ground. The legs of the diodes in pairs from each bus are bolted to the ends of the stator phase windings, and their other ends are connected together - a "star" connection. In the G 222 generator, a wire goes from this point to a terminal on the rear cover, from which a wire goes to terminal "85" of the RS-702 type charge control lamp relay. There are no wires at 37.3701 from the common point of the phase windings.

Brushes are pressed to the rotor slip rings by springs, one of which is connected to the "B" terminal, and the second to the W terminal of the voltage regulator installed on the brush assembly in the upper rear part of the generator. In 37.3701 there are three diodes connected at one end to the phase windings, and the second are connected to one point, the wire from which goes to the terminal Ш of the regulator relay and the terminal "61" on the rear surface of the generator. The diodes are connected in such a way that they pass positive half-cycles to the terminal "61".

The electronic voltage regulator is non-separable and since 1996 has been installed in a metal case, riveted to the brush holder. A capacitor is mounted between the body and terminal "30".

Generator connection diagram

To control the battery charge level in a VAZ 2105 car, you need to monitor the output rectified voltage, which is maintained within 13 June 14.2 V. The regulator relay compares the voltage in the vehicle's on-board network with the reference one and, if this level is exceeded, reduces the voltage on the exciting winding , increasing the resistance between one of the rotor brushes and the "mass". When the voltage in the car's network decreases, the regulator lowers the resistance, increasing the current in the field winding and, accordingly, the voltage at terminal "30". Such cyclical processes occur at a frequency of 50-250 times per second.

The generator ground is connected to the vehicle ground through a housing attached to the engine block. Terminal "30" of the generator is connected to the "+" terminal of the storage battery and the on-board network of the car through the fuse box. Outgoing to the output on the back cover of the generator Г 222, the wire from the "zero" of the stator winding is connected to the terminal "85" of the PC-702 relay of the charge control lamp. The wire from terminal "87" of this relay through the connector Ш10 and Ш5 of the mounting block goes to the charge indicator lamp through the connector "2" of the instrument cluster.

In the 37.3701 generator, terminal "61" is connected with a brown wire with a white stripe to the Ш10 connector of the mounting block and through the Ш5 connector of this block and connector "2" of the instrument cluster is connected to the charge indicator lamp.

The generator model G 222 works like this.When the ignition is turned on, "+" voltage from the battery is supplied to terminal "30", then to the excitation winding, and then through the open voltage relay to ground. From the ignition switch through the fuse 10 of the mounting block "+" is connected to the terminals "86" and "87" of the charge indicator lamp relay. Through the closed contacts of the relay, it is supplied to the lamp itself and through it along the "mass" of the car to the "-" of the battery. The lamp is on.

When the G 222 rotor rotates on a VAZ 2105, a voltage arises at the ends of its phase windings, which, increasing, begins to partially, and then completely supply the excitation winding, the on-board network and charge the battery. When the upper voltage level in the network is reached, the regulator relay increases the resistance in the excitation circuit and the generator keeps it within 13, June 14.2 V. A phase voltage is applied to the winding of the charge indicator lamp relay, and when its value is 5.03 oct 4 V, this is enough to open the contacts. The lamp goes out, indicating that all appliances are powered by the generator.

In the model 37.3701 generator, when the ignition is turned on, the excitation winding is powered through a control lamp, which is on at this time. When the rotor rotates, a voltage arises at the ends of its phase windings, it is rectified by a block of additional diodes, begins to feed the excitation winding and is fed to the charge control lamp. The lamp is on from the voltage difference at the terminals "61" and "+" of the battery. With an increase in the voltage at terminal "30", the indicated difference with the engine running decreases and reduces to 0. The lamp goes out, indicating that all devices are powered by the generator.

Sometimes, when tuning or repairing electrical equipment on a model 2105 before 1987, a generator is installed from a VAZ 2108 or 21053. And the car immediately starts having problems: either there is no charge, then the lamp does not burn. You need to connect the "+" of the on-board voltage to the lamp, and its second contact, bypassing the relay, connect to the terminal "61", then everything will fall into place.

The generator G-222 and 37.3701 (from 2108) were installed at 2105. So which one did you set?
Most likely you installed the generator 37.3701 - read the topic Replacing the standard generator with a VAZ-2108 ead.php? T = 12163

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pavelm 12 Oct 2012

After several days of brain-fucking with my generator as a "guru" of generator set-up, I want to report the following:

I have not seen it anywhere in the recommendations, but if you have already checked everything that is possible, things are still there.
Then my advice to you is to check if the stator (winding) is broken to ground. In the G-222 generator, this check is easily done without disassembly:
- We take a multimeter
- remove the lamp relay terminal and check the resistance between the ground and the zero terminal of the winding (the one to which the lamp relay is connected). If the resistance is zero or a few ohms, then go ahead to the market for a new winding or generator.

Yes, and, from personal experience, on repairing genes, so as not to fuck like me in case of problems with the gene, I advise the following verification scheme:
- we check the fuse of the excitation winding
- check the condition of the battery (its charge)
- check the belt tension
- we take a multimeter and removing the wire from the voltage regulator, we check the presence of voltage on it with the ignition on. (if there is no voltage or it is lower than the voltage on the battery by more than 1.5V, we check the entire circuit for oxides, including the ignition switch).
- we check the diode bridges with a multimeter (there is a description of how)
- check the winding breakdown to ground in the above described way
- with the same multimeter we check the quality of the mass on the generator case
-If the above did not help, we unscrew the voltage regulator with brushes, check the brushes, clean the mass and contacts on the regulator, change the regulator if necessary.
- through the nest of brushes with a multimeter, we check the excitation winding for an open circuit (we connect the multimeter to the collector contacts) and a breakdown to ground.

P / S do not judge strictly, I understand that a lot has been written on this topic, but I think my post may be useful to someone.

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pavelm 19 Oct 2012

VAZ 2105 Generator Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination

Replace voltage regulator

Eliminate the short circuit or replace the plastic base of the brush holder

In general, during assembly, the contact that should touch the W terminal of the "tablet" ("chocolates" Ya112V1 ) moves and touches the fixing screw (the screw that secures the cover of the "chocolate" to the generator body)

Stator check:

By alternately connecting the ohmmeter probes to the stator terminals, we check its windings for an open.

... and short circuit to the case.

Another important thing is to know that there should be no melted / damaged windings on the windings, and there should not be turns on the coil hanging on the rotor. Very often, classic generators die due to acid from the battery - increased voltage (or inept addition of distilled water) splashes acid into the engine compartment.
Most importantly: if the amount for repairing a generator is more than half (1/2) of the cost of a new generator, buy a new generator

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Sashak683 22 Jan 2013

Please help me in this matter: sometimes (once or twice a month) the charging lamp lights up, and then it does not go out for several days, when the clamp is removed from the battery, the engine stalls. The charging relay is working, the brushes are replaced, the contacts are cleaned, the fuse 10 is working. what else could be with the gene?
is it possible to ring the dodny bridge and windings without removing the gene?

Does anyone have in mind a good electrician (or service station) in Dnepropetrovsk?

All greetings, dear friends and subscribers.
From the beginning about the painful; with the drive wrap up to many cars, some kind of unsubscribing from my car began and this is regrettable) well, I wish good luck to all those who unsubscribed and success.
Now about the repair of the Generator
It all started with the fact that the voltage dropped to 12V with the consumer dimensions, it was useful to see what could be there.
As always, I replaced the generator brushes, but it did not help, then I took off the generator (G222) and began to disassemble it, but it was a little wrong) the bearing that was in the cover did not want to be removed, I had to knock down the bottom cover a little and then the winding, but it happened that one contact from the winding came off, The contacts of the diode bridge were oxidized but not burnt out, so I decided to replace it.

I put everything in place now it remains to install the brushes.
The generator brushes are not my relatives
but very rare but good ones, when I tried to take them off I broke off one little cream, in half.
I went to look for the shops but did not find such, they advised me to take my family's quality from them, of course, HOMNO
but what to do I bought, put it on.

I put the generator back in place and started to start.
When I started my surprise there was no limit, the generator gave out a maximum of 19.2
The battery boils after 30 seconds of engine operation,

I took my old ones, which I put in place for more than 10 years, and voila Voltage at idle speed 14.3v with consumers 13.2v
Good luck to everyone and not high voltage)

The connection diagram of the VAZ-2105 generator is a system based on the laws of physics, therefore, to understand it, you will have to use this wonderful science.

In order to provide the VAZ-2105 with electricity for standard operation, there is a special electric generator in the car. Starting from the moment of its creation and until 1987, the VAZ-2105 was equipped with an aggregate G 222, after 1987 this model of the generator was replaced by the 37.3701 device.

A generator is a device that rectifies the sinusoidal voltage of each of the three phases, by means of the fact that an electric current rectifier is built into it.

This device consists of a three-phase diode bridge of a penny generator, which, in turn, has 6 silicon-based diodes in the structure. Electric voltage is created by excitation of the current rectifier at the moment when the rotor poles change under the stator windings. As the rotor rotates inside the machine stator, the rotor poles change.To increase the value of the magnetic fluxes, the stator contains an electromagnetic exciting winding in the area of ​​the magnetic circuits.

The rotor belt drive rotates by the front crankshaft pulley together with the pump pulley of the cooling system. VAZ-2105, at the moment the starter is turned on, turns off all instrument circuits that are of secondary importance.

If it becomes necessary to switch the generator from the VAZ-2105 to the VAZ-21053, then there should be no problems, because the diagram of their electrical connections is practically the same.

The connection diagram of the VAZ-2105 generator and the description is presented below:

1. The generator consists of two covers made of aluminum alloys, which are tightened with bolts and nuts, with a round stator core clamped in the middle between them.
2. The rotor bearings are located in the covers, the front one is located in the area of ​​the through, the rear one is in the area of ​​the blind seat. The rotor rotates inside the stator part, as well as inside the housing, thanks to two bearings.
3. At the front end there is a special slot for a key, which is an ordinary thread for a fan nut.

When repairing a generator, they often forget to put an adjusting washer, which is highly discouraged.

1. The BPV-50 current rectifier is connected to the back cover, namely to its inner part. The rectifier consists of two horseshoe-shaped aluminum busbars isolated from each other with three silicon diodes of the VA-20 type pressed into them. Inside, the bus is completely isolated from the case, it comes in close contact with the bolt through which the generator output 30 takes place, the second cinema bus maintains contacts with ground.
2. Each bus has an output of diode legs connected in pairs by bolts to the ends of the phase stator windings. Their opposite ends are connected to each other in a "star" connection.
3. The G 222 generator contains the wiring coming from this point, which is output to the terminal of the rear cover, from this cover to the 85 relay of the control lamp charge of the RS-702 type.
4. The slip rings are connected by springs to the brushes. The first brush is connected to the outlet of the point "B", and the second - to the point "W", which regulates the voltage. The regulator outlet is installed in the brush assembly located in the region of the rear upper regulator part.

The voltage regulator cannot be disassembled. Since 1996, it has been riveted to the brush holder with a metal body. The case itself is separated by a capacitor from the 30th terminal.

To control the battery charge level, you need to carefully monitor the amount of rectified voltage maintained around 14.2 V.

The regulating relay compares the voltage within the on-board network of your vehicle with the reference one. If this level rises, then it begins to reduce the amount of voltage supplied to the exciting winding. In essence, this means an increase in the available resistance between one rotor brush and, accordingly, the mass.

If the voltage in the car network drops, then the regulator also reduces the possibility of resistance. This is due to the fact that the current supplied to the field winding increases, as does the amount for applications at terminal 30. The frequency of such processes can be carried out up to 250 times per second.

The result is two masses:

They are connected to each other by a housing, and the housing itself is attached to the cylinder block of the engine.

Using the standard schematic description of the generator's operation, it is enough just to delve into its structure.

If you need to work with a remote voltage regulator, then it is advisable to remember that it is built-in on the VAZ-2105, and an external one must be installed on the VAZ-2101. As a result, when changing from car to car, all this will give serious connection problems and a dead battery.

Diy video instructions for connecting a VAZ-2105 generator (carburetor, injector):

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