DIY fret generator repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the grant fret generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Lada Granta cars appeared on our roads relatively recently, however, unfortunately, many owners of this model of the Russian car industry have already noticed the presence of many chronic "sores" among which one of the most unpleasant is the low reliability of the standard Lada Granta generator.

As always, the most correct method of solving the problem is, at the same time, the most radical one. In this case, it means replacing the 9402.3701 generator with a more reliable and perfect product, for example, a 110 Amp generator from Bosch. Such a modernization does not require any structural changes and will help to get rid of problems associated with power supply for many years, although it must be admitted that such a revision will cost a lot.

As a preventive measure, you can slightly improve the power generation system on the Lada Granta by replacing it with an obviously unsuccessful bracket and, in this case, it is advisable to install the Lada Kalina bracket, which has a special roller for adjusting the belt tension. Despite its apparent insignificance, such a simple modification can significantly extend the life of the generator bearings.

However, if there is a desire and some practical skills, then it is quite possible to repair the Lada Grant generator with your own hands.

Generator voltage regulator Lada Granta - check and prevention

Prevention of the Lada Granta generator

Such prevention can give new life to the Lada Granta generator.

Video (click to play).

1. Remove the alternator drive belt

2. Remove the lugs of the wires from the contact bolt.

3. Disconnect the wires from the generator

4. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt nut of the upper mounting of the generator. Using a 17 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt of the lower mounting of the generator.

5. Remove the bolts from the generator bracket and remove the generator.

6. In order not to lose, remove the nut and bushing 'of the bolt from the generator bracket.

It is possible to check the stator and rotor winding for an open circuit without removing the generator from the car. For this it is necessary to remove the rectifier unit.

To complete the work you will need:

- three- or two-grip puller;

- homemade mandrel from a set of a cup puller.

1. Remove the generator from the car

2. Remove the voltage regulator

3. Prying off with a screwdriver, we extract the ends of the stator windings from the spring-loaded contacts of the rectifier unit.

You can check the condition of the rectifier unit and stator windings without further disassembling the generator. It is enough to carefully bend the winding leads to the sides. The check procedure is the same as shown below.

4. Using an 8 mm spanner wrench, unscrew the three fixing bolts of the rectifier unit (remembering how the insulating and thrust washers are installed).

5. Using a 12 mm wrench, unscrew the contact bolt nut.

6. Remove the rectifier unit.

7. With a marker, mark the relative position of the front and rear covers of the generator (to simplify assembly).

8. Using an 8 mm socket wrench, unscrew the four bolts tightening the front and rear covers of the generator.

9. Using a slotted screwdriver, carefully open the generator covers.

10. Remove the rear cover, take out the contact bolt (with an insulating washer put on it) and the plastic bearing sleeve.

To determine the technical condition of the rear bearing, wiggle it from side to side and vigorously rotate its outer ring.The bearing should not have significant play, the ring should rotate freely without jamming and extraneous noise. The defective bearing must be replaced.

11. With a marker we put marks on the relative position of the stator and the back cover.

12. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the stator from the back cover of the generator.

13. To determine the technical condition of the front bearing. holding the pulley with your hand, rotate and wiggle the front cover from side to side.

If the bearing sticks, has significant play, or makes a lot of noise during vigorous rotation of the cover, it must be replaced.

The manufacturer does not recommend changing the front rotor bearing, since the bearing is sealed in the front cover of the generator. But, given that the cost of the bearing is much lower than the cost of the new front cover and, moreover, of the generator assembly, it is advisable to press out and replace the faulty bearing.

14. If it is necessary to replace the front bearing of the generator with a 24-minute socket wrench, unscrew the pulley fastening nut, holding the pulley with sliding pliers.

15. Remove the pulley 3 with spring and flat washers 2, spacer sleeve 1 from the rotor shaft.

16. With blows of a hammer with a rubber striker we press out the rotor from the front bearing (for this we bait the pulley fasteners on the rotor shaft thread, flush with the end face).

17. If it is necessary to replace the front bearing of the generator, install the front cover in a vice.

19. Having fastened the rotor in a vice with soft pads on the jaws, using a universal puller of a suitable size, press the rear bearing off the rotor shaft.

1. Applying the ohmmeter probes to the slip rings of the rotor, we check the field winding for breakage. The resistance of a serviceable field winding should be 5-10 ohms.

2. Connecting the ohmmeter probes to any slip ring and to the rotor, we check the excitation winding for a short to ground. With a good rotor winding, the ohmmeter should show infinitely high resistance.

3. Alternately connecting the ohmmeter probes to the terminals of the stator winding, we check the stator windings for breakage. In the absence of an open circuit, the ohmmeter will show a small electrical resistance.

4. Having connected the ohmmeter probes to any winding terminal and to the stator, we check the stator winding for a short to ground. If there is no short circuit, then the ohmmeter should show an infinite resistance.

Defective rotor and stator are replaced.

A working semiconductor diode conducts electric current in only one direction. If the diode does not conduct current or conducts current in both directions, then it is faulty.

5. We connect the probe of the negative terminal of the ohmmeter to the diode terminal, and the probe of the positive terminal to the body of the diode under test (or to the plate into which it is pressed). A working diode should not pass current (resistance tends to infinity).

6. We change places of the tester probes. If the diode is ok, the ohmmeter should show electrical resistance.

7. Similarly, we check other diodes of the rectifier unit.

Before pressing the bearing into the front cover of the generator, it is necessary to check the bearing seat and, if necessary, restore the chamfer with a knife or scraper where the edges of the hole remained jammed. When pressing the front bearing into the cover, force must be applied only to the outer ring of the bearing.

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1. Having picked up suitable mandrels from the set of a cup puller, we press the new bearing into the front cover of the generator until it stops.

2. By applying light blows with a hammer through a drift, we restore the bearing filling in the cover.

3. Using a tube of suitable diameter (you can use a 19 mm deep head) press the rear bearing onto the rotor shaft until it stops.

Before installing the alternator rear bearing, make sure the shaft is securely in the vise.Place a piece of wood of a suitable size under the rotor shaft so as not to damage the front rotor impeller during pressing. To avoid damage to the bearing, shocks should only be applied to the inner ring of the bearing.

Further assembly of the generator is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. At the same time, we combine the marks applied to the covers and the stator of the generator. Finally, tighten the tie bolts evenly, criss-cross, in several steps according to the pat-turn. Having tightened the bolts, we make sure that the rotor rotates slightly (the rotor jamming can be caused by the skewed covers). Before installing the plastic casing, we make sure that the terminals of the stator windings are securely fastened.

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