DIY largus generator repair

In detail: do-it-yourself largus generator repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Removing the generator, replacing the voltage regulator Lada Largus

We remove the generator for inspection and repair or replacement if it fails. We replace the voltage regulator on the removed generator.

We show the work on a car with a 1.6 (16V) engine, on a car with a 1.6 (8V) engine, the operations are almost the same.

Disconnect the terminal of the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the fuel rail protection (see "Removing the fuel rail protection" p. 59).

Remove the front bumper (see "Removing the front bumper" p. 238).

Remove the right headlamp unit (see "Removing the headlamp unit", p. 212).

Remove the accessory drive belt (see "Replacing the 1.6 (8V) engine accessory drive belt", p. 20 or "Replacing the 1.6 (16V) engine accessory drive belt", page 29).

Remove the upper radiator mounting brackets and, lifting the radiator, remove the lower support of the fan casing from the holes in the subframe (see "Removing the radiator", p. 115). Moving the radiator to the left side of the car, place the radiator on the stretcher.

... and, turning the generator, remove the lower generator mounting bolt.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four screws.

Turning the head "by 10" the generator mounting bolt, we move the bushing.

Move the other threaded bush in the same way.

Install the generator in reverse order.

Place the car on a two-post lift (electro-hydraulic lift type P-3.2 G with a lifting capacity of 3.2 t), brake with a parking brake, turn off the ignition, raise the hood, disconnect the ground wire terminal from the battery (wrench “10”).

Video (click to play).

For vehicles with K7M engine without climate system and without power steering

Remove the protective cap from the nut 1, Figure 4-1, and disconnect the block 2 of the wiring harness from the generator 3, unscrew the nut 1 (replaceable head 13, knob, extension, flat screwdriver).

Disconnect the lugs from the generator B + terminal.

Figure 4-1 - Disconnecting the electrical wires from the generator:

1 - nut for fastening the wire to the B + terminal of the generator;

2 - block of the wiring harness to the terminal “D” of the generator;

4 - generator mounting bracket;

5 - upper and lower generator mounting bolts;

Bite with pliers and remove belt 1, Figure 4-2, accessory drive (pliers).

Figure 4-2 - Removing the generator:

1 - auxiliary equipment drive belt;

2 - the upper bolt of fastening of the generator;

Unscrew and remove the upper and lower bolts 5, Figure 4-1, fastening the generator to the bracket 4 (replaceable head 10, ratchet wrench).

For vehicles with K7M engine with power steering without climate system

Remove the protective cap from the nut 1, Figure 4-3, and disconnect the block 4 of the dashboard wiring harness from the generator 2, unscrew the nut 1 (replaceable head 13, knob, extension cord, flat screwdriver).

Disconnect the lugs from the generator B + terminal.

Figure 4-3 - Disconnecting the electrical wires from the generator:

1 - nut for fastening the wire to the B + terminal of the generator;

3 - upper bolt of fastening of the generator;

4 - block of the wiring harness to the terminal “D” of the generator

Unscrew by 3.4 turns the adjusting bolt 2, Figure 4-4, and bolt 1 (replaceable head 10, driver, extension).

Figure 4-4 - Removing the generator:

1 - upper bolt of fastening of the adjusting plate;

4 - upper bolt of fastening of the generator;

5 - accessory drive belt

Remove right front wheel

Remove the right engine mudguard

Remove the front right wheel arch cover

Unscrew by 3.4 turns the lower bolt 1, Figure 4-5, fastening the adjusting plate to the bracket and loosen the tension of the belt 2 of the accessory drive (replaceable head 10, crank, extension).

Remove the accessory drive belt from the pulleys.

Figure 4-5 - Removing the ancillary drive belt:

1 - lower bolt of fastening of the adjusting plate;

2 - accessory drive belt

The removed belt must be replaced.

When replacing the belt, it is imperative to replace the tensioner pulley.

Unscrew and remove the two lower bolts 1 and 2, Figure 4-6, fastening the generator 4 to the bracket (replaceable head 10, ratchet wrench and extension).

Figure 4-6 - Removing the generator:

1 - generator mounting bolt;

2 - generator mounting bolt;

3 - auxiliary equipment drive belt;

5 - the upper bolt of fastening of the generator

Unscrew and remove the upper bolt 5 securing the generator to the bracket (replaceable head 10, ratchet wrench).

For vehicles with climate control and power steering

Remove the right front wheel. Remove front bumper

Do not turn the engine crankshaft in the opposite direction to the direction of rotation.

Do not start the engine without an accessory drive belt, as this could damage the crankshaft pulley.

Do not damage the air conditioning pipes.

Turn the automatic tensioner roller 1, Figure 4-7, of the accessory drive belt with a wrench clockwise (ring wrench 16).

Figure 4-7 - Removing the accessory drive belt:

2 - accessory drive belt

Block the tensioner roller with a hexagon wrench (6mm hexagon wrench).

Remove belt 2 for accessory drive.

The removed belt must be replaced.

When replacing the belt, it is imperative to replace the idler and idler rollers. Unscrew the screws securing the air deflector (screwdriver, T30 Torx socket). Remove air baffle 1, Figure 4-8.

Figure 4-8 - Air deflector attachment points

2 - air deflector attachment points;

Unscrew the upper bolts 1, Figure 4-9, fastening the radiator bracket to the car body (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

Figure 4-9 - Upper radiator mount:

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1 - bolt of fastening of the radiator bracket;

2 - air conditioner condenser

Disconnect the brackets 2, Figure 4-10, the radiator mountings from the radiator.

Figure 4-10 - Mounting the radiator:

1 - bolt of fastening of the radiator bracket;

2 - radiator mounting bracket

Remove the radiator 1, Figure 4-11, of the engine cooling system complete with the air conditioner condenser 2 from the lower mounts 3 and slide it towards the left fender of the car.

Figure 4-11- Bottom Heatsink Mount:

1 - radiator of the engine cooling system;

2 - air conditioner condenser;

3 - bottom mount of the radiator

Unscrew nut 2, Figure 4-12, fastening the generator wire (ring wrench Disconnect the wire from the generator.

Disconnect the instrument panel harness block 3 from the alternator.

Figure 4-12 - Securing the generator:

1 - lower bolt of fastening of the generator;

2 - nut for fastening the generator wire;

3 - block of the wiring harness of the instrument panel to the generator

Unscrew the upper bolt 4, Figure 4-4, the generator mounts (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

Unscrew bolt 1, Figure 4-12, of the lower generator mounting and remove the generator together with the lower mounting bolt (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

For vehicles with K4M engine with power steering without climate system

Remove the front right wheel

Remove the right engine mudguard

Remove the accessory drive belt

Unscrew two nuts 1, Figure 4-13, fasteners of the fuel rail guard and remove the fuel rail guard 2.

Figure 4-13 - Removing the fuel rail protection:

1 - nut for securing the fuel rail protection;

2 - protection of the fuel rail;

3 - fuel pipe union

Disconnect the fuel pipe union 3 from the fuel rail

Unscrew the nut securing the alternator wire (ring spanner 13). Disconnect the wire from the generator.

Disconnect the harness connector from the alternator.

Lay aside the branch of the wiring harness to the generator

Unscrew the bolt securing the power steering tube to the cylinder block (replaceable head 13, extension, crank).

Unscrew the bolt securing the bracket for attaching the power steering pipe to the generator and remove the bracket (replaceable head 10, extension, crank).

Unscrew the upper alternator mounting bolt (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

Unscrew the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator and remove the generator upwards together with the bolt of the lower fastening (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

For vehicles with K7M engine without climate system and without power steering

Remove right front wheel

Remove the right engine mudguard

Remove the front right front wheel arch cover

Install the generator in the reverse order to removal.

In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:

- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);

- nut for fastening the generator wire - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 10 and 13, torque wrench).

For vehicles with K7M engine without climate control system with power steering

Install the generator in the reverse order to removal.

In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:

- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);

- the bolt of the tension roller adjusting plate - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable head 10, crank and extension, torque wrench);

- nut for fastening the generator wire - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, ratchet wrench, extension, torque wrench).

For vehicles with climate control and power steering

Install the generator in the reverse order to removal.

In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:

- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);

- nut for fastening the generator wire - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, ratchet wrench, extension, torque wrench).

For vehicles with K4M engine with power steering without climate system

Install the generator in the reverse order to removal.

In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:

- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);

- the bolt of fastening the bracket of the power steering pipeline to the generator 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m);

- nut for fastening the generator wire - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m);

- nuts for securing the fuel rail protection 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable heads 10 and 13, torque wrench).

For all vehicle configurations

Install a new accessory drive belt

Lada Largus is built on the basis of Renault Logan. The advantages of this model are the spacious interior, cheap parts and affordable repair prices. Many motorists repair the Largus on their own, it is easy to figure out its device and eliminate all arising malfunctions.

The performance characteristics and possible malfunctions of the Lada Largus depend on which engine is installed under the hood. Initially, the designers installed French motors. Since 2016, the installation of domestic VAZ 11189 engines began, which are not inferior in performance to foreign counterparts.

Installing domestic engines allows manufacturers to save money and make the price of the car more affordable. It also lowers the cost of spare parts and engine maintenance. But it is believed that the VAZ units serve no more than 200,000 km, while the French ones can cover up to 300,000 km.

Like any car, this model has its drawbacks.Repair and maintenance of Lada Largus are cheaper than repairing Logan. In order not to be surprised, purchase an instruction manual and familiarize yourself with common problems.

If you have a faulty thermostat, you can immediately tell by the engine temperature: it will be too low or too high.

This malfunction is eliminated by replacing the thermostat. There are several types of these devices, designed for different temperatures. You should choose one that suits your riding style.

Every car enthusiast knows that knocks and noises in the engine speak of his imminent death. Therefore, you need to be careful about extraneous sounds and correctly determine their localization.

Loose pistons;
Worn crankshaft main bearings;
Worn connecting rod bearings.

If you are sure that pistons or bearings are knocking, then you need to overhaul the motor. This is a complex procedure and is best done under the guidance of a mentor. You can also look at the video of the repair of Lada Largus with your own hands to study all the nuances.

This is a weak point on all seven-seater cars, as the load is much higher than on the five-seater versions. When buying a used car, ask in what conditions it was used and how often the Lada Largus was repaired. To assess the condition of the ball joints, contact a car service or check them yourself on an overpass.

knocking on the suspension when a speed bump is passing;
backlash when the wheels swing on the overpass;
instability of the front wheels.

If you encounter such a problem, you need to immediately repair the Largus in order to extend the life of the entire suspension. It is performed on a special machine for restoring ball joints, so you need to contact a car service. It is problematic to carry out such repairs on your own.

This is a typical disease of all Largus. The main reason is poor contacts established at the factory.

instrument readings are constantly jumping;
electrical appliances or one of them do not work;
sensors fail;
the ignition does not work due to high-voltage wires under the hood.

To repair Lada Largus with your own hands in this case, you first need to determine the cause of the malfunction. Perhaps the contacts have oxidized, which is why this or that electrical device stopped working. The wire may be broken. In this case, you need to ring the circuit to understand which wire is faulty.

Many car enthusiasts complain about the lack of alternator charge. In half of the cases, the problem lies in the generator itself, then you need to take it for repair. In the other half of the cases, the battery or the weak belt tension is to blame. Therefore, before going to a car service, check the battery terminals and the tension of the alternator belt.

The mechanical box is considered the most reliable of all types. In domestic cars, manual transmission does not cause problems up to 200-250 thousand km with regular oil changes. But on high runs, Largus owners complain about malfunctions.

Crunching when shifting gears;
Inability to turn on the transmission;
Harsh mechanical sounds during movement;
Spontaneous jumping off the gear.

Most often, manual transmission malfunctions are associated with a break in the gear selection cable. Do-it-yourself Lada Largus auto repair can be done in the garage by disassembling the box. But if you do not have experience, it is better to turn to craftsmen who can disassemble, repair and assemble back.

A common Largus malfunction is the wear of the CV joint. This is evidenced by its characteristic crunch. This problem often occurs on new cars and is fixed under warranty.

A torn boot may be to blame for the wear of the CV joint. Dirt from the road gets into the mechanism, as a result, the part stops working. To prevent this, periodically inspect the mechanisms and check the integrity of the anthers.

If your rpm float while driving or idling, there may be several reasons:

deformed valves;
the cylinder head gasket burned out;
malfunction of the idle speed sensor or throttle position sensor.

By additional signs, you can find out the localization of the malfunction - directly in the engine or in the sensors. The method of eliminating the problem depends on this. You can see how to change the sensors in the Lada Largus repair manual.

Moreover. that the resource of domestic engines is small, motorists note their weak torque and high fuel consumption. Another common problem is that when the timing belt breaks, the valves are immediately deformed. To prevent this from happening, you need to carry out maintenance and repairs of Lada Largus on time.

1. Remove the alternator drive belt2. Remove the lugs of the wires from the contact bolt.3. Disconnect the wires from the generator4. Using a 13 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt nut of the upper mounting of the generator. Using a 17 mm socket wrench, unscrew the bolt of the lower mounting of the generator.5. Remove the bolts from the generator bracket and remove the generator.6. In order not to lose, remove the nut and bushing 'of the bolt from the generator bracket.It is possible to check the stator and rotor winding for an open circuit without removing the generator from the car. For this it is necessary to remove the rectifier unit.To complete the work you will need:- three- or two-grip puller;- homemade mandrel from a set of a cup puller.1. Remove the generator from the car2. Remove the voltage regulator3. Prying off with a screwdriver, we extract the ends of the stator windings from the spring-loaded contacts of the rectifier unit.You can check the condition of the rectifier unit and stator windings without further disassembling the generator. It is enough to carefully bend the winding leads to the sides. The check procedure is the same as shown below.4. Using an 8 mm spanner wrench, unscrew the three fixing bolts of the rectifier unit (remembering how the insulating and thrust washers are installed).5. Using a 12 mm wrench, unscrew the contact bolt nut.

6. Remove the rectifier unit.7. With a marker, mark the relative position of the front and rear covers of the generator (to simplify assembly).8. Using an 8 mm socket wrench, unscrew the four bolts tightening the front and rear covers of the generator.9. Using a slotted screwdriver, carefully open the generator covers.10. Remove the rear cover, take out the contact bolt (with an insulating washer put on it) and the plastic bearing sleeve.To determine the technical condition of the rear bearing, wiggle it from side to side and vigorously rotate its outer ring. The bearing should not have significant play, the ring should rotate freely without jamming and extraneous noise. The defective bearing must be replaced.11. With a marker we put marks on the relative position of the stator and the back cover.12. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the stator from the back cover of the generator.13. To determine the technical condition of the front bearing. holding the pulley with your hand, rotate and wiggle the front cover from side to side.If the bearing sticks, has significant play, or makes a lot of noise during vigorous rotation of the cover, it must be replaced.The manufacturer does not recommend changing the front rotor bearing, since the bearing is sealed in the front cover of the generator. But, given that the cost of the bearing is much lower than the cost of the new front cover and, moreover, of the generator assembly, it is advisable to press out and replace the faulty bearing.14. If it is necessary to replace the front bearing of the generator with a 24-m socket wrench, unscrew the pulley fastening nut, holding the pulley with sliding pliers.15. Remove the pulley 3 with spring and flat washers 2, spacer sleeve 1 from the rotor shaft.sixteen.With blows of a hammer with a rubber striker, we press out the rotor from the front bearing (for this we bait the pulley fasteners on the rotor shaft thread, flush with the end face).17. If it is necessary to replace the front bearing of the generator, install the front cover in a vice.19. Having fastened the rotor in a vice with soft pads on the jaws, using a universal puller of a suitable size, press the rear bearing off the rotor shaft.1. Applying the ohmmeter probes to the slip rings of the rotor, we check the field winding for breakage. The resistance of a serviceable field winding should be 5-10 ohms.2. Connecting the ohmmeter probes to any slip ring and to the rotor, we check the excitation winding for a short to ground. With a good rotor winding, the ohmmeter should show infinitely high resistance.3. Alternately connecting the ohmmeter probes to the terminals of the stator winding, we check the stator windings for breakage. In the absence of an open circuit, the ohmmeter will show a small electrical resistance.4. Having connected the ohmmeter probes to any winding terminal and to the stator, we check the stator winding for a short to ground. If there is no short circuit, then the ohmmeter should show an infinite resistance.Defective rotor and stator are replaced.A working semiconductor diode conducts electric current in only one direction. If the diode does not conduct current or conducts current in both directions, then it is faulty.5. We connect the probe of the negative terminal of the ohmmeter to the diode terminal, and the probe of the positive terminal to the body of the diode under test (or to the plate into which it is pressed). A working diode should not pass current (resistance tends to infinity).6. We change places of the tester probes. If the diode is ok, the ohmmeter should show electrical resistance.7. Similarly, we check other diodes of the rectifier unit.Before pressing the bearing into the front cover of the generator, it is necessary to check the bearing seat and, if necessary, restore the chamfer with a knife or scraper where the edges of the hole remained jammed. When pressing the front bearing into the cover, force must be applied only to the outer ring of the bearing.1. Having picked up suitable mandrels from the set of a cup puller, we press the new bearing into the front cover of the generator until it stops.2. By applying light blows with a hammer through a drift, we restore the bearing filling in the cover.3. Using a tube of suitable diameter (you can use a 19 mm deep head) press the rear bearing onto the rotor shaft until it stops.Before installing the alternator rear bearing, make sure the shaft is securely in the vise. Place a piece of wood of a suitable size under the rotor shaft so as not to damage the front rotor impeller during pressing. To avoid damage to the bearing, shocks should only be applied to the inner ring of the bearing.Further assembly of the generator is performed in the reverse order of disassembly. At the same time, we combine the marks applied to the covers and the stator of the generator. Finally, tighten the tie bolts evenly, criss-cross, in several steps according to the pat-turn. Having tightened the bolts, we make sure that the rotor rotates slightly (the rotor jamming can be caused by the skewed covers). Before installing the plastic casing, we make sure that the terminals of the stator windings are securely fastened.

103
Lada Largus removal installation of the generator

Generator - dismantling / assembly

1 - conclusion "B2 +"; 2 - generator casing; 3 - back cover; 4 - tightening bolt; 5 - front cover; 6 - generator pulley; 7 - brush holder with voltage regulator; 8 - brush holder connector

Place the car on a two-post lift (electro-hydraulic lift type P-3.2 G with a lifting capacity of 3.2 t), brake with the parking brake, turn off the ignition, raise the hood, separate the ground cable terminal from the battery (wrench “10”).

For Lada Largus cars with K7M engine without climate system and without power steering
Dismantle the protective cap from the nut 1, image 4-1, and separate the block 2 of the cable harness from the generator 3, unscrew the nut 1 (replaceable head 13, knob, extension, flat screwdriver).
Separate the cable lugs from the B + terminal of the generator.

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Figure 4-1 - Disconnecting the electrical wires from the generator of the Lada Largus car:
1 - nut for fastening the cable to the B + terminal of the generator;
2 - block of cable harness to terminal “D” of the generator;
3 - generator;
4 - generator mounting bracket;
5 - upper and lower generator mounting bolts;

Bite with pliers and remove belt 1, Figure 4-2, of the accessory drive (pliers).

Image 4-2 - Dismantling the generator of the Lada Largus car:
1 - additional equipment drive belt;
2 - the upper bolt of fastening of the generator;
3 - generator

Unscrew and remove the upper and lower bolts 5, image 4-1, fastening the generator to the bracket 4 (replaceable head 10, ratchet wrench).
Dismantle the generator.

For vehicles with K7M engine with power steering without climate system
Dismantle the protective cap from the nut 1, image 4-3, and separate the block 4 of the instrument panel cable harness from the generator 2, unscrew the nut 1 (replaceable head 13, knob, extension cord, flat screwdriver).
Separate the cable lugs from the B + terminal of the generator.

Image 4-3 - Disconnecting the electrical wires from the generator of the LADA Largus car:
1 - nut for fastening the cable to the B + terminal of the generator;
2 - generator;
3 - upper bolt of fastening of the generator;
4 - block of the cable harness to the terminal “D” of the generator

Unscrew the adjusting bolt 2, image 4-4, and bolt 1 (replaceable head 10, driver, extension) by 3.4 cycles.

Image 4-4 - Dismantling the generator of the Lada Largus car
1 - upper bolt of fastening of the adjusting plate;
2 - an adjusting bolt;
3 - generator;
4 - upper bolt of fastening of the generator;
5 - drive belt of additional equipment

Remove the right front wheel
Remove the right engine mudguard
Remove the right front wheel arch cover
Unscrew by 3. 4 cycles the lower bolt 1, image 4-5, fastening the adjusting plate to the bracket and release the tension on the belt 2 of the accessory drive (replaceable head 10, crank, extension).
Remove the additional equipment drive belt from the pulleys.

Figure 4-5 - Removing the ancillary drive belt:
1 - lower bolt of fastening of the adjusting plate;
2 - drive belt of additional equipment

Attention.
The removed belt must be replaced without fail.
Attention.
When replacing the belt, it is imperative to replace the tensioner pulley.
Unscrew and remove the 2 lower bolts 1 and 2, image 4-6, fastening the generator 4 to the bracket (replaceable head 10, ratchet wrench and extension).

Image 4-6 - Dismantling the generator of the LADA Largus car:
1 - generator mounting bolt;
2 - generator mounting bolt;
3 - additional equipment drive belt;
4 - generator;
5 - the upper bolt of fastening of the generator

Unscrew and remove the upper bolt 5 securing the generator to the bracket (replaceable head 10, ratchet wrench).
Dismantle the generator.

For Lada Largus cars with climate system and power steering
Remove the right front wheel. Remove the front bumper
Attention.
Do not turn the engine crankshaft in the opposite direction to the direction of rotation.
Attention.
Do not start the power unit without the accessory drive belt, as this could break the crankshaft pulley.
Attention.
Do not damage the air conditioning pipes.
Turn the mechanical tensioning roller 1, Figure 4-7, of the additional equipment drive belt clockwise with a spanner (ring spanner 16).

Figure 4-7 - Removing the drive belt for additional equipment:
1 - tension roller;
2 - drive belt of additional equipment

Secure the tensioning roller with an Allen key (6 mm Allen key).
Remove belt 2 for additional equipment drive.
Attention.
The removed belt must be replaced without fail.
Attention.
When replacing the belt, always replace the tension and idler rollers. Unscrew the screws securing the air deflector (screwdriver, TZO Torx socket). Remove the air deflector 1, Figure 4-8.

Image 4-8 - Attachment points for the air deflector of the car Lada Largus
1 - air deflector;
2 - air deflector attachment points;

Unscrew the upper bolts 1, Figure 4-9, fastening the radiator bracket to the car body (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

Figure 4-9 - Upper radiator mounting:
1 - bolt of fastening of the radiator bracket;
2 - air conditioner condenser

Separate the brackets 2, image 4-10, the radiator mounts from the radiator.

Figure 4-10 - Radiator attachment:
1 - bolt of fastening of the radiator bracket;
2 - radiator mounting bracket

Remove radiator 1, figure 4-11, engine cooling system complete with air conditioner condenser 2 from lower mountings 3 and move it towards left fender of the vehicle.

Figure 4-11- Lower radiator mounting:
1 - radiator of the engine cooling system;
2 - air conditioner condenser;
3 - bottom mount of the radiator

Unscrew nut 2, image 4-12, of the generator cable fastening (ring wrench Separate the cable from the generator.
Separate block 3 of the instrument panel cable harness from the generator.

Image 4-12 - Fastening the generator car Lada Largus:
1 - lower bolt of fastening of the generator;
2 - nut for fastening the generator cable;
3 - block of the harness of the instrument panel cables to the generator

Unscrew the upper bolt 4, Figure 4-4, the generator mounts (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).
Unscrew bolt 1, image 4-12, of the lower generator mounting and dismantle the generator together with the lower mounting bolt (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

For vehicles with K4M engine with power steering without climate system
Remove the front right wheel
Remove the right engine mudguard
Remove the accessory drive belt
Unscrew two nuts 1, Figure 4-13, fastenings of the fuel rail guard and remove the fuel rail guard 2.

Image 4-13 - Removing the fuel rail protection of the LADA Largus:
1 - nut for securing the fuel rail protection;
2 - protection of the fuel rail;
3 - fuel line union

Separate the fuel line union 3 from the fuel rail
Unscrew the nut securing the generator cable (ring spanner 13). Separate the cable from the generator.
Separate the cable harness connector from the generator.
Move aside the branch of the cable harness to the generator.
Remove the bolt securing the power steering line to the cylinder block (replaceable head 13, extension, crank).
Remove the bolt securing the bracket for attaching the power steering pipe to the generator and dismantle the bracket (replaceable head 10, extension, crank).
Unscrew the upper alternator mounting bolt (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).
Unscrew the bolt of the lower fastening of the generator and dismantle the generator upwards together with the bolt of the lower fastening (replaceable head 10, extension, ratchet wrench).

For vehicles with K7M engine without climate system and without power steering
Remove the right front wheel
Remove the right engine mudguard
Remove the front right front wheel arch cover.
Put the generator in the reverse order of removal.
In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:
- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);
- nut for fastening the generator cable - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 10 and 13, torque wrench).

For vehicles with K7M engine without climate control system with power steering
Put the generator in the reverse order of removal.
In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:
- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);
- the bolt of the tension roller adjusting plate - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable head 10, a crank and an extension, a torque wrench);
- nut for fastening the generator cable - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, ratchet wrench, extension cord, torque wrench).

For vehicles with climate control and power steering
Put the generator in the reverse order of removal.
In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:
- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);
- nut for fastening the generator cable - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m) (replaceable head 13, ratchet wrench, extension cord, torque wrench).

For vehicles with K4M engine with power steering without climate system
Put the generator in the reverse order of removal.
In this case, the tightening torques of the threaded connections:
- bolts for fastening the generator to the bracket - 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m);
- bolt fastening the bracket of the power steering branch pipe to the generator 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m);
- nut for fastening the generator cable - 14 N.m (1.4 kgf.m);
- nuts for securing the fuel rail protection 21 N.m (2.1 kgf.m) (replaceable heads 10 and 13, torque wrench).
For all vehicle configurations
Fit new bodywork belt

Hello. Help me please. What could be the reason? The situation is as follows. We bought a Lada Largus car. The previous owner pushed his gnarled hands and now we cannot find the cause of the breakdown. The generator was removed, and everything was fine for diagnostics. And we put it back, it does not give out the required number. The battery does not receive the required charge at low speeds.

If you are sure that the generator is working properly, but the required voltage does not come to the battery. This is clearly in the electrical circuits.
In addition to the integrity of the wires and connections, check the ground points on the engine and on the body. You can even check this way: take a thick wire, connect it to the generator case, the other end to the negative terminal of the battery, start the engine. Usually, with this option, the voltage on the battery rises, that is, the option of losses on the rusted "masses" is confirmed.

If the required voltage goes only after 2000 rpm, there is no excitation, check the wire going to the excitation of the generator. The low battery lamp is on when the ignition is turned on, does it work?