DIY Mazda 626 gf generator repair

In detail: DIY repair of a Mazda 626 gf generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Vitjuwo »19 Mar 2014, 13:43

Here is the same cap and the bolt below 14, that's all you need to unscrew at the bottom! A little higher is the connector, it must also be pulled out, it is done very easily and it is clearly visible!

Then we climb to the top.
and we see the gene from above, we take a nozzle or a key for 10 and unscrew it for a start, the tube that comes from the Power steering was unscrewed and set aside, it will be easier to work this way!
Next, we take a nozzle or a 12 key, and unscrew these 3 bolts, indicated by the arrows.

We twist it, so that there is a better move! it is necessary to successfully unfold it so that it can get through there!

And so the problem with the generator appeared, although, as was analyzed, the tail of this problem was seen a year and a half ago.

I drew attention to the problem for the first time a year and a half ago, when I drove through a small puddle (cm15): well, splashing to the sides - the charging lamp came on. Well, I think water got on the belt. Dries up - tune, wipe the belt. I drove 300 meters - nifiga, the charging lamp is on. I begin to look, it’s stupid, because there is also a pump on this belt. Suddenly the belt was cut off, the engine was not enough for complete happiness to fade. I open the hood - the belt is in place. I'm looking for some, the lamp goes out, everything is OK. Well Ok and okay, I will keep in mind. Then it caught fire a couple more times and just went out.

The situation when I was in Crimea made me pay special attention to this. I start the car in the morning, it was dry, the charging lamp is on. Well, I think this was not enough for me to be completely happy. In addition, a low howl is heard, as if I have turned on all the electrical load that is possible. I touched the generator - you can't touch it, it's hot. And this despite the fact that the car runs for 2-3 minutes and the engine is barely warm. I drove the car out of the yard, drowned it out. I stood there, started it up, didn't seem to howl and went on business - everything is OK. But, as they say, the sediment remained. And now, already at home in Sumy, after the rain, I hear the familiar howl. I think we need to figure it out, because all this is not without reason.

Video (click to play).

I take a tester, measure it on XX without a load of 12.6 V, give 2500 rpm, it rises to 13.6 V, I turn on all that I can, the load at XX is 11.7V, at 2500 rpm - 12.1V. I disconnect the bias control connector - the howling stops, but there is no charging either, work on one battery (for those who are not in the subject, the BRAIN controls the operation of the generator in the GF, and only the transistor-current amplifier on the generator). It’s not normal for the generator to get so hot without load. The situation does not suit me. I drove to the parking lot, drove through a puddle again after the rain - the howl disappeared and again the generator does not heat up.

Tomorrow came, I'm going to my friends, auto electricians, to figure out what's the matter. We remove the generator and then it began. First, the shaft is almost impossible to turn, the rotor is rubbing against the stator. We disassemble the generator, the bearings are normal. It turned out that the heating partially melted the plastic of the subwinding gaskets and hit the stator shoes, which slowed down the rotor. But this is not the saddest thing. The most unpleasant thing is that when the stator was unsoldered from the diode bridge, we saw a breakdown of the stator power winding onto the core, tobish on the case. And okay, if it was one kOhm or two. Breakdown was about 10 ohms. Well, I think this is where it came ... to the generator. Normally you can't rewind it, and if you wind it, you won't fix the winding properly. And here there are quite large currents and the Lorentz force, who remembers physics, will quickly loosen the winding and render it unusable. So the weak hope for a through-breakdown of the diode was not justified. The diodes turned out to be normal, and I began to get used to the idea of buying a new generator and to measure the upcoming costs.

And here friends of auto electricians come to the rescue, they say: “Seryoga, don’t ssy, we’ll shoot him right now.” I understand that it cannot be worse, I say - come on. Take the welding machine one wire for iron, the second for the power winding. Short touch. Spark identified the location of the short circuit. Hard to reach. It turned out that a point in the plastic was charred from heating and, through the destroyed insulation, shorted to ground with its charred layer. It is unrealistic to clean and remove the coal there, they decided to burn it out. The place of the spark was filled with superglue, it bound the coal and it became less conductive. We measure the resistance between the stator and the winding - already 450 ohms. Another discharge, glue. Measurement showed 2.5 kOhm. Another discharge and glue. Infinity. The test connection to the welding machine no longer caused a spark. The place of the spark was covered up and painted over with paint. A control measurement with a megohmmeter showed a resistance of more than 5 mΩ. My mood has become much better, because the generator may still serve.

Oxidized places cleaning, assembly, installation. We test. XX without load - 14.2 V. We give revolutions of 14.5 V. We load with everything that is possible - distant, tumanki, condenser, glass heating, fan for the whole - 12.8 XX, we give revolutions - 13.95V.

So, the generator was not removed in vain and repaired on time. I would still ride for a couple of months without repair and the replacement of the generator is provided. Thinking about the reason for what happened, they agreed that the design of the generator (aluminum-iron pair) plus water are to blame for all this, and the quality of spare parts for the last cars leaves much to be desired.

Py.Sy: this post should be considered a report on the work done, sorry for the absence of a photo, dirty hands did not allow taking pictures.

PyPySy: the guys categorically refused to accept payment for the repair of the generator, up to the point of insults, so coffee, ice cream, beer served as payment. And in return, a repaired generator and additional knowledge in this area were received.

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Group: MAZDAvod
Posts: 302
Registration: 04.07.2010
From: Volgograd

Said thanks: 42 times
Auto: Mazda626GC 2.0iGT 85 Mazda626GE 2.5l V6 96
Name: Vladimir

Post has been edited SANSKRIK - Aug 29 2012, 10:10

Petrol engine Removal On vehicles with a petrol engine with a working volume of 1.9 / 2.0 / 2.2 liters (90-136 HP), the generator is removed and installed from below, and on vehicles with a working volume of 2.5 liters (163 HP) - from above.

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Warning. There is a risk of injury if the vehicle is lifted with a jack or special hoists.

• With the ignition off, disconnect the negative battery cable.

Attention. If the radio is equipped with a special. code (to prevent theft), it will be reset when the battery is disconnected. A distinctive feature of this type of radios is the word “CODE” or a red key icon on their control panel. The radio receiver can be put into operation only after entering the correct code, either at a specialized Mazda service center, or at the radio receiver manufacturing plant. In this regard, it is necessary to find out the specials in advance. the code.

• 90-136 HP: remove the front exhaust pipe.

• 163 hp: remove the air intake pipe.

Warning: do not open the coolant circulation system of the air conditioner. If refrigerant comes into contact with the skin, it may cause frostbite.

• Vehicles with a 2.5 l petrol engine: loosen the air conditioning compressor mounting bolts and, together with the pipes, place them against the cylinder block.

• Disconnect the wire from terminal -B- of the generator.

• Disconnect the multi-pin connector from the generator.

• Loosen the V-belt. To do this, on cars with a gasoline engine with a capacity of 90-136 hp.unscrew the generator clamping bolt and move the generator towards the engine. On vehicles with a 163 hp gasoline engine loosen the V-belt using the tensioning roller.

• Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the generator.

Installation • Place the alternator on the vehicle and secure with screws. On cars with a gasoline engine with a capacity of 90-136 hp. Do not fully tighten the screws.

• Put on and tighten the V-belt.

• Cars with a gasoline engine of 90-136 HP: fully tighten the alternator mounting screws and tighten the clamping bolt.

• Repair the multi-pin connector.

• Connect the connecting wire to terminal -B- of the generator.

• Vehicles with 163 hp petrol engine: fix the air conditioning compressor. Install the air intake and the underbody guard.

• Cars with gasoline engine 90-136 hp: install the front exhaust pipe.

• Connect the cable to the negative (-) battery terminal. If necessary, enter special. code into the radio and set the time on the clock.

• Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Gasoline engine with a displacement of 1.9 / 2.0 / 2.2 l 1 cross member 2 front exhaust pipe 3 bolt (120 Nm) 4 nut (45 Nm) 5 nut (25 Nm) 6 nut (25 Nm) 7 seal (replace with new one) 8 seal (replace with new one) 9 nut for connecting cable (25 Nm), terminal -B- 10 multi-pin plug connector 11 screw (45 Nm) 12 screw (15 Nm) 13 generator

Gasoline engine with a displacement of 2.5 liters 1 lower engine crankcase 2 screw (10 Nm) 3 screw (30 Nm) 4 A / C compressor 5 V-belt 6 screw (45 Nm) 7 screw (25 Nm) 8 screw (20 Nm) 9 connecting cable nut (25 Nm) , terminal -B10 Multi-pin plug 11 Generator 12 Nut (10 Nm) 13 Air inlet 14 V-belt tensioner

Diesel engine 55 kW / 75 HP

Removal To remove and install the generator, it is necessary to dismantle some parts of the front suspension and front wheel drive.

• Ignition OFF, disconnect the negative (-) battery lead.

• Mark with paint the position of the right front wheel in relation to the hub. This will put the balanced wheel in the same position it was in before it was removed. Unscrew the wheel nuts, while the vehicle must be on the ground. Jack up the front of the vehicle and remove the right front wheel.

• Press the tie rod end - 1 - out of the steering knuckle.

• Press out the lower ball joint -7 from the steering knuckle.

• Unscrew nut -3- and press the anti-roll bar pivot rod out of the wishbone.

• Move right drive shaft -8- away from gearbox.

• Release tension and remove V-belt -9-.

• Disconnect electrical connector -10- from alternator.

• Remove the connecting cable from terminal -B- of the generator, to do this unscrew nut -11-.

• Unscrew bolt -12- with nut -13- and remove from bracket -14-.

• Unscrew screw -15- from bracket -16-.

• Remove alternator -17- from vehicle.

Installation • Install the generator to the vehicle.

• Secure bolt -12- with nut -13-.

• Fix alternator with bolt -15- to bracket -16-. The tightening torque of the bolt is 20 Nm.

• Tighten bolt -12- (40 Nm). Hold nut -13- against turning.

• Connect the connecting cable to terminal -B-. Tighten nut -11- (6 Nm).

• Connect the plug -10- to the alternator.

• Install and tension the V-belt.

• Install the right drive shaft.

• Install the anti-roll bar pivot rod into the wishbone.

• Mount the lower ball joint in the pivot arm.

• Install the tie rod end in the steering knuckle.

• Align the marks made when removing the wheel on the hub and front wheel. Lubricate the guides. Never lubricate the wheel nuts.

1 tie rod end 2 slotted nut (40 Nm) 3 nut (50 Nm) 4 articulated anti-roll bar 5 bolt 6 nut, install with washer (50 Nm) 7 lower ball joint 8 drive shaft 9 V-belt 10 multi-pin plug connector 11 nut (0 Nm) 12 bolt (40 Nm) 13 nut 14 generator bracket 15 screw (20 Nm) 16 screw 17 generator

Replace with new rusted wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the nuts crosswise (110 Nm).

Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. If necessary, enter special. code into the radio and set the time on the clock.

Diesel engine 74 kW / 100 hp With.

Removal • With the ignition off, disconnect the negative (-) battery lead.

Attention. If the radio is equipped with a special. code (to prevent theft), it will be reset when the battery is disconnected. A distinctive feature of this type of radios is the word “CODE” or a red key icon on their control panel. The radio receiver can be put into operation after entering the correct code, either at a specialized Mazda service center, or at the manufacturer of the radio receiver. In this regard, it is necessary to find out the specials in advance. the code.

Unscrew screw securing cable holder - 1 -.

• Unscrew nut -2- and remove the connecting cable from terminal -B- of the generator.

• Disconnect multi-pin connector -3-.

• Release tension and remove the V-belt.

• Unscrew screws -5- and remove bracket -6-.

• Unscrew bolt -7- while holding nut -8- against turning.

• Disconnect alternator -9- from bracket 10-.

Installation • Fix the generator to the bracket. Do not fully tighten the nuts.

• Fit the bracket and tighten the screws (25 Nm).

• Put on and tighten the V-belt.

• Tighten bolt -7- (45 Nm) while holding nut -8- against turning.

• Connect the multi-pin connector to the generator. Connect to terminal -B and fix the connecting cable with a nut (2 Nm).

• Fasten the cable to the bracket with screw -1-.

• Connect the cable to the negative (-) battery terminal. If necessary, enter special. code into the radio and set the time on the clock.

DOOR LOCK - REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF LOCK CYLINDER
1. Remove the plugs from the door. 2. Screw the special tool into the plug as shown in the illustration. H. Press down on the tool to disengage the fork from the door lock cylinder as shown.

Replacing impellent oil and oil filter
(every 4800 km [3000 miles] or every three months) Tool kit needed to change the engine oil and oil filter 1 - Drain tank - should be shallow and sufficient.

Observe the following guidelines when driving on snow, ice or sand: • Drive carefully and maintain a sufficient distance from the next vehicle in front. • Avoid sudden maneuvers.

A client calls and tells about how the car was driving and stalled.

It stood, started up, and with grief in half, drove up to me on its own and completely died out in front of the gate. We have a planted battery and no charge. After a visual inspection, it seems like they found the reason. The power wire "+ B" from the generator has rotted away or burnt out.

I restored the wiring, charged the battery, start it up - there was no charging, and there is no charge. Further checks revealed that the generator was to blame. We remove, disassemble. We have melted insulation and up to a heap of turn-to-turn circuit in the rotor.After agreeing with the client, we come to a decision to replace the complete generator. We decided to stay at the factory restored, with a 2-year warranty. Issue price 6200 rubles. For comparison, a new one costs about 14,000 rubles.

It should be said here that there were two types of generators on the 626 Mazda. Normal - with built-in relay regulator, with L-S control. These generators have been installed throughout the GE generation. And they differed in a simple control scheme.

The second type is ECU-controlled generators. The so-called generator with D-P control. In this case, a 1.5 V pulse signal comes to terminal D (drive) from the motor controller, which controls the field winding key. From the P (phase) terminal, a pulse signal of the excited state of the generator with a voltage of 9 V also goes to the controller. Accordingly, the “no charge” lamp in the dashboard is lit by the ECU. By changing the frequency of pulses on the D contact, the controller controls the voltage in the field winding, therefore, in the entire on-board network of the car. These generators have been installed on all 626s since 41997.

Now, knowing the device of the generator and the principle of its operation, it would be nice to analyze what we have. And we have a new generator that can repeat the consideration of its predecessor, if we do not establish the cause of the melted insulation. Logically speaking, this is nothing more than overheating of the rotor. I have to find out what caused it. And maybe the "+ B" terminal was not rotted away, but burned out? Overheating of the rotor can be caused either by a broken key in the generator's interior or by a constant signal from the controller, which in turn will open the key.

We put a new generator on the car. We connect the oscilloscope to pins P and D. We hang a voltmeter on the battery. We start the car. The charge control lamp goes out, the voltage on the battery is 14.3 V, the pulses come and go, but something is not right. I don't see it yet, but I hear it. The generator whines like wildly overloaded with consumers. Of the entire load, the fuel pump, control system and battery are turned on, everything else is turned off. A few seconds after starting, the frequency of the pulses on D increased sharply, approaching an almost open state. The generator has started to get very hot. We turn off the engine. It is necessary to measure what current comes out of the generator. I take a current clamp, the second channel of a 600A oscilloscope. We start the motor and I don’t believe my eyes, the current rises smoothly from 5A to …… 75A. In addition to the battery and the starter, I do not know other consumers capable of consuming such a current and not smoke. With all this, the voltage on the battery is 14-14.2 V. There are no complaints about the starter. The battery, according to the owner, was replaced 3 months ago and yet. We jam, remove the battery, temporarily put the first used one that came to hand. We start. The generator does not make noise, the recoil current rose to 15-17A and stopped there. Battery voltage 14.3 V.

We turn on all consumers (fan, heaters, all headlights and something else). The output current from the generator approached 65 A. The voltage dropped by 1 tenth. All OK.

Reason found. Internal short circuit in the battery. This, in turn, led to overheating and breakdown of the generator, as well as to melting and burning of the power wire attachment.

PS
A Chevrolet Tracker recently arrived with a similar defect in the battery.
Owner complaint: after the generator was repaired, after a few days the charging was lost again.
The generator was replaced and we came to check it. When measuring, the generator output current, idle with switched off consumers, was about 45 A.
It was recommended to immediately replace the battery.
After replacing the battery, the return current, under the same conditions, is about 23A.

Mazda 626 GE (1991-1998) - electrical diagram

The article shows in color photographs the electrical diagrams of the fifth generation Mazda 626, which was produced from 1991 to 1998. All wiring diagrams can be downloaded for free in excellent resolution in Russian.

If you are interested in the fourth generation Mazda 626 (GD, GV) 1989-1992, then see the article - Mazda 626 (1989-1992) schematics.

In this article, we will consider the electrical equipment of a car with the following engines:

gasoline 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 and 2.5 liters;
diesel 2.0 l.

Video about the crash test of a 1997 Mazda 626, ANCAP (the car scored only 3 stars out of 5):

In the diagrams, all the wires of the circuits have their own color, their designations:

BLK - black
YEL - yellow
GRN - green
BLU - blue
RED - red
WHT - white
PNK - pink
LT GRN - light green
ORG - orange
BRN - brown
VIO - purple
GRY - gray

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1. Wiring diagram of the engine starting and battery charging system:

2. Scheme of the control system for the operation of the engine of the machine and manual transmission / automatic transmission Mazda 626 GE 1991-1998 (with 4 and 6 cylinder engines):

3. Wiring diagram of the main lighting headlights with and without daytime running lights:

4. Schemes Mazda 626 GE (1991-1998) - external lighting devices (brake lights, direction indicators, sidelights, side lights):

5. Schematic diagram of the rear lights of the machine:

7. Wiring diagram of Mazda 626 GE central locking and car remote control system:

8. Wiring diagram for interior lighting of a car of 1993-1997 and 1998 (interior lighting bulbs, for reading cards, lighting of the visor and sills of the front doors):

9. Diagram Mazda 626 GE - interior lighting devices (glove box lighting, ashtray and cigarette lighter lighting, gear selector lighting "model with automatic transmission", instrument cluster lighting, radio receiver lighting, windshield heater switch lighting, cruise control system, heater control backlight lamp, hazard warning light switch backlight lamp, fog lamp switch backlight lamp):

10. Instrument panel sensors and warning lights:

11. Electrical diagram of the cruise control system Mazda 626 GE 1993-1998:

12. Windshield wipers and washers:

13. Diagram of the air conditioner and stove (electrical circuits of the air conditioner compressor and engine cooling fan):

Lost charging from the generator. The charge lamp simply does not go out after starting the engine. Because the purchased relay-regulator has long been lying, it was decided to sort out the generator.

Removing the generator did not pose any particular problems, even in spite of the interfering gas system. I had to remove the pan of the air filter, after which the generator was pulled out.

I once had someone nailed a relay-regulator from Niva 2121. A cursory inspection showed that the wire from the external relay-regulator was 10 centimeters without insulation and was clearly shorting to ground.

Disassembling the generator was not particularly difficult. First, we clamp the pulley in a vise and unscrew the nut, I had it at 22, I used a wheel wrench.

We unscrew the tightening 3 or 4 bolts (along the perimeter of the generator), then knock down the front crusher with successive blows to the ears of the attachment (namely the front one, the one on the side of the unscrewed pulley).

Then you need to remove the rotor. To do this, turn the generator over with the pulley down and beat gently from below on the ear of the back cover, the rotor gradually comes out. Only then can you unscrew the bolts securing the diode bridge and the relay-regulator and remove the back cover of the generator.

Removing the back cover showed that the “revision” of the external regulator was very tough: they were using wire cutters. I had to order a new diode bridge.

Front and rear bearings were ordered together with the axle. there were still relatives on the generator.

I soldered the stator from the diode bridge with an 80 watt soldering iron, because 40 watt could not quickly warm up the place with solder, but heated the entire structure as a whole.

It is most convenient to assemble it back like this: first, install a diode bridge with a relay-regulator, then a stator, then, wielding round-nose pliers, we fill the stator contacts into the connectors of the diode bridge and the relay-regulator. After that, we solder it with the same 80 watt soldering iron. The main thing is to solder quickly, you do not need to heat the parts for a long time.

This was followed by the installation of a generator on the car.

The problem was that the external relay-regulator was hoisted in place in a barbaric way, cutting off the existing wires.In the diagram, three wires are suitable for the generator: plus (black), from the lamp from the dashboard (white-black), permanent plus (white-green, from a 30A fuse under the hood). Obviously found only black. Then I found a white and black, which turned out to be white and black with yellow rings.

But with white and green I had to tinker. Found a wire hanging in the air. I call it - 1.5 volts. Where could 1.5 volts come from !? At first I thought - the wire was rotten. Found a connector near the fuse box. From there came a black and red wire and a brown one with blue rings. He took off the connector, rang - 1.5 volts. Found a fuse, which, in theory, goes to the generator. It rings like a whole. I decided to check the fuse, which looks intact - it does not ring. Verdict - The fuse is dead. Replaced with a nearby one, the wire rang - 12 volts.

All wires go in one bundle with a black wire (plus for the battery).

After that, it was a matter of technology - to lengthen the bitten wires by soldering, insert them into the connector and try to start them. After starting the engine, the engine runs much more stable and better. Starts with half a turn.

I decided to try to replace the brushes on the generator (in the hope that the light will stop flickering) but at the same time the voltage regulator and the diode bridge! (As a result, the problem disappeared and there was a good charge!) I had some experience in parsing the generator! Therefore, without thinking twice, I climbed under the hood to remove the genk)) it is located under the intake manifold, photographed did not work! There is very little space, the Japanese fit everything compactly in the engine compartment)) I will briefly describe how I removed the generator! To begin with, I threw off the negative terminals from the battery and turned off the wire chip that fits the generator! Then, unscrewed with a key 13 wires leaving the generator (carrying a charge to the fuse box and to the battery). The next step was to loosen and remove the belt! The bolt was loosened with a key of 12 (if memory serves)) then we unscrew the bolt securing the generator to the cylinder block! The key came up at 14! The whole thing is not difficult, but because of the tightness I had to chirp for a long time! I advise you to use a ratchet wrench - it will go much faster))

The hardest part ahead is pulling out the generator! Maybe someone filmed from the bottom, but we don't go easy ways and decided to pull it out through the top! For ease of pulling through, unscrew the bolt securing the hose coming from the gur through the valve cover (on top of the engine)! Well, then twist, twist, look for the position in which the generator will come up))

So, after 15-20 minutes of torment, we still pulled out the generator! Now let's clean it from dirt with an iron brush and start disassembling it!

In order to disassemble the generator, we need a Phillips screwdriver and a 10 wrench! We turn off the key to which the wires are attached (leading to the battery), then with a screwdriver we unscrew the 4 bolts securing the generator covers. Further, as you like and conveniently! Take a hammer or a flat, thick screwdriver and quietly, around the entire circumference of the generator, begin to squeeze the top cover!

Squeeze gently so that the generator winding remains in the cover with brushes and a diode bridge (although if you are going to change everything, you can barbarously rip it out, but not the fact that the winding will not suffer!) The next step is to do this: heat the soldering iron and unsolder from 4 contacts of the diode bridge 4 wires winding! Having unsoldered the wires, you need to just as carefully, without damaging the winding, pull this winding out of the generator cover with a screwdriver or other improvised means))) We take a screwdriver, turn off the brushes with a voltage regulator (as it turned out later, during the opening, this is one part) and a diode the bridge is just three bolts!

After all these operations, you can clean and wipe everything! I think you have a lot of dirt, like I have accumulated there over 20 years)))

Putting it all in reverse order! When you screw on the new brushes with the regulator and the diode bridge, carefully put the winding in place.Make sure that the wires fit clearly into their seats! This will make it easier for you to solder them in the future))) As a result, you must solder 4 wires and 2 contacts of the regulator with brushes to the diode bridge! Further, a small nuance: do not forget to insert the wire through the hole in the lid and fix the brushes - this will facilitate further collection of the generator and will not damage the brushes! After assembling the generator, do not forget to pull out this wire))

Well, then, as we disassembled and assemble it!

If you have any questions, write! I will help how I can)))

Image - DIY repair of a mazda 626 gf generator

The charge disappeared, the generator began to warm up. - logbook Mazda 626 My Japanese tractor in 1985 on DRIVE2

The specified didod calls both directions, he checked the truth with an ordinary Chinese tester.

Hello everyone, I need your help! Today the generator has started to stand out or there is a problem with the wiring. Actually, I would like to consult with you on this issue. I have a voltmeter in my cabin, but today it suddenly started signaling that the voltage had dropped below 12V. I immediately thought that the generator had died, but if we turn on the gas and turn off the consumers, the voltage rises to 12.7. Usually, the voltage below 13.5 does not drop even with a stove and headlights. The generator gets very hot, you can't hold your hand. Another such moment, when you turn the key in the ignition, before all the lights on the tidy came on (those that go out after the start), now they do not light up. The other day I changed the alternator belts, I have two of them. I ordered 2 pieces of new ones, but they seem to have arrived a little different in length, I think that the factory is defective, since they should be the same. Actually, when I changed the belts, I found that there was a slight play in the pulley. I have several assumptions that this could be: 1. bearings under the load of belts spin badly and therefore the gene itself heats up, can this also affect the voltage (or cannot)? 2. something is short in the gene? (winding for example), because it heats up. 3. Something somewhere is whiling away in the car, the battery is vryatli (banks in the sense), since now it is charging at home, it takes the charge normally.

Where to look, what to expect. how to overcome this case. I will be glad to your advice. Thank you.

So the moment came when my battery light came on. It happened very unexpectedly. He drowned the car, went on business, returned after 5 minutes. I'm looking for some, I immediately hear a strange hum and the battery light comes on. And immediately to myself I think about how to remove the generator, I read a lot that it is difficult to get it. I drove into the garage and got to work. I'll tell you if there are no air conditioner pipes, then the generator is very easily removed from the top. It is necessary to remove the oil dipstick, unscrew the hydraulic booster tubes, unscrew and set aside the entire vacuum system, unscrew the generator mount and then the generator can be safely removed from the top. It took me about 30 minutes slowly.

This is how the generator is taken out

All that is left of the brushes

Old front bearing

It feels like the generator was not serviced from the factory. The repair cost $ 50. Front bearing FAG 6303RSR - $ 7 Rear bearing Cargo 140419 - $ 6.5 Transpo IM830 generator relay - $ 14

Diode bridge Unipoint REC-5691 - $ 18

But there was one of my jamb, when I disassembled the generator, I noticed that the brushes were worn out, and therefore I decided that it was because of the bottom. I changed the brushes, put the generator on, start looking for some, and everything remains the same - the lamp is on and there is some kind of unbearable hum. I had to remove the gene again, order a relay and a diode bridge, change everything and put it in place. Now fully serviced the generator - one less problem.

Gas engine
Withdrawal
On cars with a gasoline engine with a displacement of 1.9 / 2.0 / 2.2 liters (90-136 hp), the generator is removed and installed from below, and on cars with a displacement of 2.5 liters (163 hp) .) - above.

Warning. There is a risk of injury when raising the vehicle with a jack or special jacks.

• With the ignition off, disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

Attention. If the radio is equipped with a special.code (to prevent theft), it will be reset when the battery is disconnected. A distinctive feature of this type of radios is the word “CODE” or a red key icon on their control panel. The radio can only be put into operation after entering the correct code, either at a specialized Mazda service center or at the radio receiver manufacturing plant. In this regard, it is necessary to find out in advance the special. the code.

• 90-136 hp: remove the front exhaust pipe.

• 163 hp: remove the air intake pipe.

Warning: do not open the coolant circulation system of the air conditioner. If refrigerant comes into contact with the skin, it may cause frostbite.

• Vehicles with a 2.5 l petrol engine: loosen the mounting bolts of the air conditioning compressor and, together with the pipes, place them against the cylinder block.

• Disconnect the wire from terminal -B- of the generator.

• Disconnect the multi-pin connector from the generator.

• Loosen the V-belt. To do this, on cars with a gasoline engine with a power of 90-136 hp. unscrew the alternator bolt by means of the clamping bolt and take the alternator towards the engine. On vehicles with a 163 hp gasoline engine. Loosen the V-belt using the tensioning roller.

• Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the generator.

Installation
• Place the generator on the vehicle and secure with screws. On cars with a gasoline engine with a capacity of 90-136 hp. Do not fully tighten the screws.

• Put on and tighten the V-belt.

• Cars with a gasoline engine with a capacity of 90-136 hp: tighten the alternator mounting screws to the end and tighten the clamping bolt.

• Repair the multi-pin connector.

• Connect the connecting wire to clamp -B- of the generator.

• Vehicles with a gasoline engine of 163 hp: fix the air conditioner compressor. Install the air intake pipe and the underbody protection of the engine crankcase.