DIY Mercedes 210 generator repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Mercedes 210 generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

SABOTAGE »25 Feb 2011, 18:20

nizol »25 Feb 2011, 18:54

No, the advice is certainly sensible! But the topic is not disclosed, except for that time interval there is nothing else.

You can also make a "report" about something else, bought it, took it off in 5 minutes, set it in 15 minutes, I highly recommend the guys.
What generator, what bearings (original, not original, or even for selection)?

PS No offense, just in this form, the topic is not about anything.
“Go there, I don't know where. Do that, I don't know what. "

krocop »25 Feb 2011, 20:16

nizol »26 Feb 2011, 01:16

Motorist »05 Oct 2014, 14:16

keril »05 Oct 2014, 15:32

Motorist »05 Oct 2014, 20:02

igrun31 »05 Oct 2014, 20:07

Motorist »05 Oct 2014, 20:49

sledge hammer »06 Oct 2014, 13:48

If you sprinkle the shit with powder, we get the shit covered with powder.

—————————————————-
I do not answer repair questions in PM
do not waste your and my time

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ronka30

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I learned Russian for a reason:
I swear without a dictionary

E280 Restayl - battery charge disappeared

Yesterday and in the morning everything was in order, I had to drive away from the kindergarten, I got started - “..alternator visit workshop” drove to work and did not stop trying on a battery - 14V (there is a charge)! I drowned it out, started it up again - again the message, I looked at it - 11.8 (no charge).

The wiring and contacts to the battery are in order, because the spring on terminal X4 (under the hood) is the same. Presumably the regulator is knocking or the wiring to it.
1. What is typical here besides the regulator, tell me?
2. Is it possible to remove / put the regulator on the gene without removing the generator?
3. Can the controller be repaired? (for example, the diode burned out)

4. And yet, I noticed a massive bluish build-up on the positive terminal of the battery - oxidation at the junction of the wire and the terminal itself (approximately 2/3 of the section). What is this - a typical wiring defect for 210 chtol?

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- = Goose = - 29 Mar 2010

I went I went. yes, apparently flew into a puddle and the gene was covered. Temporarily put another generator.
I would like to know if it is possible to repair the generator with your own hands, or rather, repair its electrical part (bearings and the rest - everything is fine)
What could be covered there? The charge does not go, all the lamps on the tidy were on, as if the ignition was on and the engine was not started.

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Cornelius Schnapps 29 Mar 2010

Diode bridges can be made, brushes for TAZ ones can be changed.
If there is a short circuit in the winding, then it is hardly on its own, although people are winding!
The most humorous ring at anchor. Erase with the left knobs one or two.

Perhaps by replacing parts. Although in theory you can rewind the windings, but why.

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BAF.F1 29 Mar 2010

bearings can only be replaced with a good puller.

Erase with the left knobs one or two.

Post has been edited BAF.F1 on: 29 March 2010 - 08:24

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Sim 29 Mar 2010

The body itself is gut, but you understand who soldered what bills there for 20-30 years.

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- = Goose = - 29 Mar 2010

How to check the winding? Tester to ring the tracks on which the brushes run?
Diode bridge.I'm interested in how it looks and where it is. For I did not have such intimate proximity with the generator)))

I put the gene from 123 to its old one. she bursts how much in vain, I'm afraid the bearings will be covered there already here. and the generator will grab the wedge. So with this topic I would need to figure it out more quickly)

tracks should not ring to ground, between themselves should
diode bridge inside in the form of a horseshoe
as a rule, a bridge or relay regulator flies
let me show you the scheme

Post has been edited by Leonidych: 29 March 2010 - 19:59

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nikopel 29 Mar 2010

Well why the heck put the brushes from the basin. They Boshevskie genes for this are 26 rubles in the Exist.

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BAF.F1 30 Mar 2010

The body itself is gut, but you understand who soldered what bills there for 20-30 years.

I asked about the new Hella. Can I take them or gobble up the generator?

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- = Goose = - 30 Mar 2010

tracks should not ring to ground, between themselves should
diode bridge inside in the form of a horseshoe
as a rule, a bridge or relay regulator flies
let me show you the scheme

WDB1232231A209435 Well, let's say my old 123rd. You can show it on it. I changed the regulator relay, it didn't help, it means the bridge. Do you need to open the case chtoli somehow? Mneb pictures more schemes helped what. =))

215/23762//////
116 diode bridge. stands at the back of the generator.

Post has been edited by Leonidych: 30 March 2010 - 01:31

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- = Goose = - 31 Mar 2010

116 diode bridge. stands at the back of the generator.

How to check? Call everything?

Who will explain the thread to me why. is it really that expensive ?? Or just out of curiosity. I'm not teasing, I'm just trying to understand the expediency of this action.

+ a lot
people really why.
if you don’t know what a diode bridge looks like, maybe it’s better to give the generator to the workshop, or after reading the information you will go to buy diodes, then you will re-solder them, repress them, collect everything back, put them on the car to make sure that the bad thing doesn’t work and throwing it out in indignation the tool will go to buy a new gene.
as an option, you can, of course, replace the bridge, but at home this is not always justified, yes, there are test circuits for both bridges and PP, but believe me it is cheaper, easier, and most importantly faster and more reliable to give it to a special workshop where there is the necessary equipment for diagnostics.

Post has been edited by Leonidych: 31 March 2010 - 10:48

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Chilori 02 Apr 2010

yes no everything is correct you need to be able to do everything yourself. diode bridge consists of 9 diodes. 6 power 3 for excitation. diode he is a diode in one direction to ring in the other is not. judging by your reason, you have it dead. I explain the passage of the current. contact + battery through the punctured power diode further the excitation diode and the excitation contact then goes to the tidy. that's why the lamps on the shit are on. In short, the conclusion is one DM dead, change. good luck.

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ponych 02 Apr 2010

Who will explain the thread to me why. is it really that expensive ?? Or just out of curiosity. I'm not teasing, I'm just trying to understand the expediency of this action.

a hundred times more expensive than picking yourself if there is no relevant experience, most likely this is curiosity, or youthful maximalism I can do everything, I also went through this generator as AKM could disassemble with my eyes closed and always something fell off in it, and you can only make claims to yourself if again what a jamb.
there were cases you go in a traffic jam bam the charge disappears, so you tear your hair in one place nafik you got to yourself and ask a question.A serious office will diagnose and adjust and replace everything that is required and, if cho, then there is someone to present. but you have to come to this with your own mind.

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Fava 02 Apr 2010

With any ailment, the main thing is not to make it worse, this time.
Correctly diagnose, these are two.
Adequately calculate your capabilities, three, so to speak.
... We have a stand in our repair office that spins up through a belt
tested gene, full load at rated power is given,
observation by an ammeter (whether the arrow will tremble), a gene from such limit
modes heats up to permissible temperatures (parameters have not gone anywhere from heating?).
The relay regulator is checked in parallel with the power, (does not the 14V walk at different speeds
on the tachometer?) .After all these manipulations, the special varnish is finally updated on
fresh rations, and then the gene is put on the car.

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PS The generator, as I understand it, is removed only through the bottom?

One more) I'm talking about an epidemic. pandemic, eprst)))
I subscribe to Konstantin's question.

igorberezuk2002, the problem is that it seems unrealistic for the gene to get up, but it still has to get to the lift. Yes, and the masters are now in a non-working mood.

It's clear. And not in the know from some basin, coals come to our generators? And I'm afraid the original regulator is now not to be found in the north of Moscow.

P.S. How do I know which gene I have installed, Bosch or Valeo? Just see with your eyes? (wdb2100611a866966)

It's clear. And not in the know from some basin, coals come to our generators? And I'm afraid the original regulator is now not to be found in the north of Moscow.

P.S. How do I know which gene I have installed, Bosch or Valeo? Just see with your eyes? (wdb2100611a866966)

No, I just want to meet an NG with a working murzik in the asset, but you can also ride on a "rattle"

sergey44 thanks for the info, we will resolve the issue

No, I just want to meet an NG with a working murzik in the asset, but you can also ride on a "rattle"

sergey44 thanks for the info, we will resolve the issue

epidemic) I have the same thing. knocked on the generator - let's move on

PS The generator, as I understand it, is removed only through the bottom?

Here, I ripped apart the gene.
The brushes are clear - under the replacement, but the development (groove) on the slip rings is how to understand it?

PS Sorry for phone pictures

PPS Exist offers a Bosch regulator with a delivery time of 3 days, and Hella (0 days), what do you advise, is it worth taking a Hello one or is it better to put a native one? (I don't want to wait long)

The generator itself is difficult to remove, all because there is very little space for unscrewing the bottom two bolts, but still it is possible to do it. First, remove the battery terminal so that you do not accidentally short-circuit the positive wire of the generator to ground in the future. Unscrew the three bolts of the power steering pump and move it to the side. Then we remove the expansion tank return pipe, unscrew the positive wire on the generator and remove the excitation coil. And now the most inconvenient thing begins, the two upper bolts of the generator are unscrewed without problems, but it will be problematic to crawl to the lower ones. After you have unscrewed the four bolts on the generator, you need to get it out through the top.

If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to give it to a specialist to replace the bearings. I did it this way:
I unscrewed the coupling counterclockwise (it went hard, as it is twisted with a force of 80 Nm.

We unscrew it in something like this.

Required tool for pulley removal.

Then he unscrewed the plastic casing along with the voltage regulator relay and unbent the six antennae on the diode bridge coming from the winding (no need to unbend the antennae coming from the diodes). And he carefully pulled out the diode bridge.

Relay voltage regulator.

Then I tried to unscrew four small screws for a Phillips screwdriver on the front cover, but I couldn't unscrew them and I drilled them out, and picked up similar ones instead.

Then, having unscrewed four long bolts, first removed the back cover of the case (it can be removed easily, practically by hand), then knocked out the anchor from the front cover with a long head, leaning it against a thick washer covering the front bearing and knocked down this thick washer with a small chisel. After that, I had an anchor in my hands with two bearings, which I had to somehow press out.

Anchor with old bearings.

Bushing and new bearings.

I did not become wise with all sorts of different pullers, which, all the more, I did not have and I just cut them off carefully with a grinder.

I pressed in the new bearings using a long head, suitable in size for the inner diameter of the bearing race, gently and slowly tapping on the head with a hammer.

Head for pressing in bearings.

I almost forgot that I first pressed the front bearing into the front cover of the generator (I pressed it into place by putting the old bearing on the new one, tapping with a hammer on the outer race of the old bearing), then I pressed the cover with the bearing onto the anchor, tapping on the long head resting on the inner race of the bearing.

Next, we collect everything in reverse order and enjoy the quiet operation of the generator.

To repair the generator you will need:
1 - freewheel (INA-535 00 42 10)
2 - a set of bearings (BOSCH-F 00M 147 777)
3 - regulator relay (BOSCH-F 00M 145 293) I left it old, the brushes were slightly worn
4 - a special wrench for unscrewing the coupling (LICOTA - ATA 0415)
5 - and most likely 4 small bolts that cannot be unscrewed

PS: Bearings in the BOSCH box and in the ORIGINAL Mercedes box will be identical. The native INA clutch and the INA clutch I purchased are slightly different.

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Today there is a huge selection of car generator models. But not everyone will be suitable specifically for your car. If for the “Europeans” it is still possible to find several options, then for the “Americans” and “Japanese” the situation is much more deplorable. Based on the specific installed unit and the year of manufacture of the machine, the following models can be installed generators:

alternator LRA00823 for MERCEDES 210 2.3