In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Opel Vectra generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
1. The vehicles in question use an alternator. When installing additional electrical equipment, check that the generator has enough power to supply new consumers with electricity.
2. The generator is driven by a multi-ribbed belt from the engine crankshaft.
3. The generator is an electromagnetically excited electric machine. A rectifier is built into the generator to convert AC to DC. The output voltage is regulated by a built-in regulator.
4. When the generator is operating, the electric current flowing through the excitation winding creates a magnetic flux around the rotor poles. When the rotor rotates, its magnetic poles periodically change under each stator tooth, as a result, the magnetic flux passing through the teeth continuously changes in magnitude and voltage. This alternating magnetic flux creates an electromotive force (EMF) in the stator winding.
5. At a high rotor speed, when the generator output voltage begins to exceed 13.6 + 14.5 V, the voltage regulator is locked, and the current does not pass through the field winding. When the voltage drops, the regulator is unlocked again, allowing the current to flow freely through the field winding. The higher the rotor speed, the longer the regulator remains locked and, accordingly, the more the voltage at the generator output decreases. The process of locking and unlocking the regulator occurs at a high frequency, therefore the output oscillations remain practically invisible and the generator voltage can be considered constant, maintained at a level of 13.6 + 14.5 V.
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Video (click to play). |
6. The charging system does not require periodic maintenance, however, the condition and replacement of the alternator drive belt, battery and its wiring should be carried out on a regular basis in accordance with the maintenance schedule.
7. The serviceability of the charging system is monitored using a corresponding lamp on the instrument cluster (Controls and operating methods ").
Safety precautions when servicing the generator
• Do not disconnect the battery or voltage regulator while the engine is running;
• Do not short to ground the generator excitation terminal or the cable attached to it;
• Do not confuse the order of connecting the voltage regulator wiring;
• When charging the storage battery without removing it from the car, make sure that both wires are disconnected from it;
• Remember that switching on a grounded voltage regulator will instantly destroy it;
• Never remove the generator with the battery connected;
• Never use voltage meters or probe lamps connected to a household network (110/220 V) when checking on-board electrical equipment;
• When checking the status of diodes, do not apply more than 12 V to them and do not use megohm meters that also have a high output voltage - diode breakdown will lead to a short circuit. Remember that when checking the insulation of electrical wiring using a megohmmeter, you must disconnect all electrical wiring from the generator;
• Before carrying out any electric welding work on the car, do not forget to disconnect the electrical wiring from the generator and the storage battery;
• Perform any checks of the circuits and assemblies of the on-board electrical wiring with the engine off and the battery disconnected;
• Remember that polarity reversal of any connections carries the risk of irreversible damage to the rectifier and generator voltage regulator.
Generator voltage check
8. If the storage battery does not charge or does not charge sufficiently while the vehicle is moving, it is necessary to check the voltage of the alternator.
9. Connect a voltmeter between the positive and negative poles of the battery and start the engine. The voltage should drop to about 8 V when starting (at an ambient temperature of + 20'C)
10. Increase the number of engine revolutions up to 3000 rpm - if the generator and the regulator are working properly, the voltage at the terminals should be from 13 to 14.5 V
11. To check the stability of the voltage, turn on the high beam and repeat the measurements at 3000 rpm. The measured voltage should increase by more than 0.4 V from the previously measured values.
12. If the readings are outside the rated value, the generator and regulator must be checked in a specialized workshop.
13. Disconnect a wire from the negative plug of the storage battery. , remove the multi-ribbed belt and belt tensioner.
14. Disconnect the wiring connector 
10.14 Removing the alternator (Z18XE engine)
1 Upper mounting bolts 2 Mounting nut 3 Engine oil pressure sensor connector 4 Bottom mounting bolt
15. Lower the car onto the wheels, remove the engine cover
17. Loosen the 2 fixing nuts (see the related illustration) and disconnect the power supply wiring from the generator.
10.17 Nuts (1) fastening the electrical wiring of the generator (engine Z18XE)
18. On models equipped with a Z16XE engine, unscrew the upper 2, and on models with an engine
Z18XE - 1 upper and 1 lower mounting bolts, remove the generator together with the mounting bracket and remove them from the engine compartment. If necessary, remove the bolts and remove the bracket from the generator.
19. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. In this case, the bushing on the tensioning device of the multi-ribbed belt must coincide with the hole on the generator support.
20. Disconnect a wire from the negative plug of the storage battery.
21. Remove the multi-ribbed belt.
Note: The belt can be removed from the bottom.
22. Loosen the nut and remove the front engine mount axle bolt.
23. Lower the car onto the wheels, fill with coolant and remove the engine cover.
24. Remove the air cleaner, and disconnect the upper hose of the cooling system from the cylinder head.
26. Remove the right engine mount using a hoist and raise the engine approximately 3.5 cm.
27. Disconnect the connector
10.27 Bolts (1) for fastening the generator (engines Z22SE / Z22YH)
3 Wiring retaining nut
28. Installation is carried out upside-down.
29. Disconnect the negative cable from the storage battery.
30. Remove the multi-ribbed belt.
31. Remove the intermediate drive shaft and disconnect the right stabilizer strut from the shock absorber.
32. Bolt off the starter screen, loosen the 2 nuts securing the alternator wiring and disconnect the wires.
33. Remove the 2 bolts and remove the generator from the bottom of the engine compartment.
34. Installation is carried out upside-down.
35. Disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the engine cover.
36. Remove the fuel filter housing from the retaining clip and remove the latter.
Note: For ease of work, the fuel filter can be removed completely.
37. Raise the vehicle on a lift and remove the multi-ribbed belt.
38. Remove the bolt
10.38 Generator fixing bolt (1) (Z19DT (H) engines)
39. On the Z19DTH engine, remove the 2 bolts securing the upper bracket for the generator wiring harness and separate the harness.
40.Loosen the 2 nuts and disconnect the alternator wiring.
41. Unscrew the 2 (one on the Z19DT engine) upper mounting bolts, remove and take the generator up from the engine compartment.
10.41 Upper bolts (1) of fastening the generator (engine Z19DTH)
42. Installation is carried out upside-down.
43. Disconnect the negative cable from the storage battery and remove the multi-ribbed belt.
44. Remove the exhaust system (.
45. Unscrew 2 bolts, loosen 1 nut and remove the starter shield.
46. Disconnect the connector
10.46 Bottom bolt securing the cable duct cover (2) (Y20DTH / Y22DTR engines)
1 Engine oil pressure sensor
47. Lower the car on the wheels, remove the engine cover.
48. Remove the 2 upper mounting bolts of the generator cable duct cover.
49. Remove the air inlet path.
50. Release the hose
10.50 Upper (2) and lower (3) alternator mounting nuts
1 coolant hose
51. Raise the car on a lift, unscrew the 3 mounting bolts and remove the steering shield.
52. Loosen the lower nut (see Figure 10.50) of the generator fastening. Remove the upper and lower mounting bolts and pull the generator down from the engine compartment while supporting the cable duct cover.
53. Installation is carried out upside-down.
54. Remove the impellent oil dipstick and close the tube with a suitable plug.
55. Remove the 4 screws and remove the engine cover.
56. Remove the battery with the installation tray.
57. Loosen the fastening clamp, disconnect from the turbocharger and move the lower connecting piece to the side.
58. Remove the expansion tank, loosen the nut and release the expansion tank hose from the holder. Swing off the holder.
59. Separate the cable harness from the transmission and take it to the side. Disconnect the turbocharger heat shield.
60 .. Remove the multi-ribbed belt and belt tensioner and exhaust system.
61. Remove the 2 bolts, loosen the 2 nuts and remove the catalytic converter support bracket, then loosen the 2 nuts and remove the catalytic converter heat shield.
62. Remove the multi-ribbed belt guide roller.
63. Remove the right drive shaft.
64. Loosen the 2 nuts and disconnect the electrical wiring from the generator. Release the electrical wiring from the holder, remove the bolt and remove the holder.
65. Disconnect the generator cable duct cover and starter wiring and take them to the side.
66. Unscrew 2 bolts of fastening of the generator, turn it with a pulley towards the housing of the steering mechanism and remove the generator from the engine compartment.
67. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After completing the installation, check the coolant level and correct if necessary.
Are you here "Forum of fans of Opel Vectra A" Photo reports on OVA repair on their own "Bulkhead generator Delco Remy (detailed photo report)
Well, I think we have arrived. He wound up, drove the car, drowned it out and left it to rest until morning. In the morning I decided to understand what kind of garbage this is. When inspecting the signal wire from the generator, everything became clear, namely
Since the voltage jumped in the network, and it was inconvenient to repress the terminal, I decided to remove and inspect the generator. After unscrewing all the fasteners, the patient was taken out into the light of day
French delco remy, however
And then my friend came, looked at this device and said: “Let's take it apart, huh?”. Hmm, why not? No sooner said than done
First of all, all fasteners are poured with WD-40 so that there is a chance to unscrew them
Then you need to separate the back of the generator (where the brush assembly, voltage regulator and 2 diode bridges are located). To make it clearer, I'll show you like this
Part 1 is fixed in something (I clamped it in a vice by the nut that secures the fan impeller), and parts 2 and 3 are pulled up. Do not pull on part 3, it pops out of coil 2 first and there is a chance to damage the coil wires. Better to hook onto the coil itself. I put the screwdriver in the slots on the spool and gently pulled up. It is worth making marks on part 1 and part 3, so that you can then assemble it in the same way as it was before disassembly. After some dances we get
Heh, the generator changed
There is still the back part with giblets (for some reason I didn't take a picture of it). We unscrew the 3 nuts holding the coil and take the coil out into the open. We check the integrity of the wires in the coil and direct breakdown of them to ground (a simple tester will not allow you to do more).
Then we unscrew the nut “-” and the current-insulating big red nut “+”
Then we unscrew the 3 bolts (one of them under the E5 head) holding the brush assembly and the voltage regulator
Do not lose the current isolation washer under the large diode bridge through which the “+” bolt passes
Well, in front of you and all the guts of the generator
1. Large diode bridgeSince the coil produces 3 sinusoids, and the car runs on a constant, its task is to straighten the voltage and supply the negative part to “-“, and the positive part to “+”. We check with a tester. If you have any questions, I will answer in a personal.
Its task is to give out a positive component to the brush. Thus, it should only ring in one direction.
Having looked closely at the slip rings and brushes, I noticed an unpleasant development.
3. Brush unit (with new brushes)
There should still be 2 springs that press the brushes to the rings, but I didn't take a picture of them
4. Voltage regulator (with the fastening bar removed to the “+” - ovoy bolt)
All metal parts of the regulator (including those that look like nuts) are its contacts
If you unscrew the nut (which is clamped in a vice in the pictures), you can remove the generator cooling impeller and remove the rotor itself. Access to the bearing will open and it will be possible to replace it (if it is completely broken). But I could not twist this nut and the pictures are dumb
After flushing, checking and debugging (if necessary), you can start assembling.
1. Install the “+” mounting bar on the voltage regulator and fasten the regulator to the body with a bolt under torx
The second output of the voltage regulator must clearly fit into the socket on the cover
2. Install a large diode bridge. Do not mix up the polarities! The large “+” bolt is on the left (where the bar is from the regulator), the small “-” is on the right. In principle, grooves for bolts are made on the diode bridge itself, but if you apply effort, then a large bolt can be pushed into a smaller hole
We carefully check that the “+” is not short.
3. Install the brush assembly and the small diode bridge. Please note that current-insulating nozzles are also worn on the bolts securing the brushes. Check their integrity. These bolts should not be short too! When installing the brushes in the brush assembly, you can see the groove for inserting the fasteners to clamp the brushes. You can put a drill into this groove. I just shoved a wire there. Since (when fotkal) initially forgot to stick this wire, some pictures will be without it
In the photo above, the brushes should be clamped with a drill. Well, or another convenient device
4. Install the coil with the terminals on the bolts
5.We lubricate the needle bearing (I hammered lithol there) and put on the part with the rotor. At the very beginning, we made risks, now they will be needed to collect in the same way as it was before parsing
Then insert the tightening bolts and tighten EVENLYconstantly checking the free rotation of the rotor. After tightening, we take out the drill and hear how the brushes are pressed against the slip rings. Next, we check that the rotor spins freely without any crunches / creaks and backlashes. We install it on the car, tighten the belt, start the pipelac and rejoice 14.4Vgiven by the generator at XX without load
So, at the request of the workers, at the request of the needy, for the curiosity of sympathizers and just for the public to see - the continuation of the heading "Our hands are not for boredom"
As one of our respected tuber said: “Vectr has weak genes” And there is something in it. The beginning of this story was the case when the Vectra simply refused to start, which in fact can wait for each owner of the Vectra, if you do not keep the state of the genes under control.
Consider a troublesome battery undercharging. The first signs of which may be poor starting of the engine, for example, the failure of some systems. In my case, the climate and its control panel were cut off.
Undercharging is indicated by the undervoltage produced by the generator when the engine is running, which is below 13.6V. It can be determined in two ways: with a multimeter
Or using the Test-Mode (test mode) of the on-board computer. It turns on like this: with the engine running and working radio the button is pressed SETTINGS and is held until the speaker beeps. Then the button is pressed BC several times until the data of the same test mode appears on the screen. The current voltage supplied by the generator is shown in red in the photo.
This feature is available to owners of restyling Vectra.
Undervoltage indicates either the wear of the generator brush assembly, or the demise of the regulator relay, or a problem with contacts on the way from the generator to the battery. Let's take a closer look at the first two.
The most interesting begins, for revision and preventive maintenance, the generator must be removed, but it is located in a slightly inaccessible place
First of all, you need to throw off the service belt, it is also the extra belt. aggregates. Before removing, I advise you to sketch a diagram of the location of the belt on the pulleys, so as not to rack your brains afterwards. And mark the direction of the belt, so that, again, afterwards, it can be installed in the same way.
It is removed by tilting upwards on the belt, inserting a suitable square in the appropriate place
The trick is that there is not enough space and it is difficult to get close to the video. Between the tensioner and the side member, there is about 3 cm of space. It is best to get to the bottom, removing the plastic protection of the pulleys on the right side. It is best to use a gate with a 3/8 hinge
Or, in the absence of, make a stripper out of a handle and a square rod.
This is exactly what he did DimonJ, for which many thanks and respect to him!
The square is rotated relative to the handle so that the handle does not rest against the body when the tensioner is removed. And the handle itself is bent so that when inserting it into the tensioner square, it does not cling to the crankshaft pulley.
With a collar or puller, the belt can be removed in half a minute. Without them, it is possible to waste a lot of time and bend the tensioner itself. To choose their own.
Next, we remove the air filter box, the tube to the throttle body, the engine control unit, free a little wiring around the generator so that it does not interfere. We unscrew the black vacuum tube from the intake manifold, it will interfere further, and its plastic bracket (near the manifold) is easy to break.
Next, you need to remove the coolant pipe, which is above the generator. To do this, you need to drain a little of the cooling liquid (I got about 2 liters). It is best to do this through the faucet in the radiator. But I dumped in the old fashioned way when removing the pipe.
I highly do not recommend draining the antifreeze by disconnecting the pipe from the cylinder head - you can fill the generator.
The branch pipe is removed.We unscrew the plastic nut that secures the power cable from the generator
Then we remove the generator excitation wire connector, it is located below the power cable fastening nut. With a nuance connector, it has a safety lock that must be released before removing the connector
Next, unscrew the four TORX bolts that secure the generator. Two on top of the generator, two on the bottom, and by various hand manipulations we pull the generator out. We can say gave birth
Unscrew the cross screw and two nuts, remove the rear protective cover
We unscrew the two screws and release the controller relay with the brushes assembly.
We compare the wear of the brushes of the new relay and the one that was removed.
In appearance, the wear is less than 50%, which means that the matter is in the regulator relay itself. We will change it. Available BOSCH, number F 00M 144 171, cost about $ 20
As it turned out later from communication with Valentine Cr-z, it is better to take the Mobiletron relay, the number of which and the details of the choice will be told by Valek himself
Since the generator is in hand, it is better to revise the slip rings, bearings and clean the genes themselves.
We unscrew the four bolts around the genes body that connect the two halves of the body. There is only one side in the photo
We put marks on the case! There is no protection from the fool, in the future you can assemble it differently, but it will become clear when you give birth to the generator back
Disconnect the case. The pulley and rotor remain in the front housing,
and the diode bridge and stator in the rear.
We check the bearings for noise and backlash. We check the current collectors for wear if the production at the point of contact of the brushes is more than 0.4 mm of the ring for replacement. Later I will drop their number according to the BOSCH catalog
I will ask Valentin to give the catalog numbers of the bearings. Because mine were ideally and I did not do anything with them.
Next, with a soft brush (not metal), carefully, we clean the entire body and insides from dust and dirt.
We assemble the generator in reverse order. We put it on the car, fill it with coolant, start the engine, let it warm up and hope that we did everything right
If something is wrong, I draw your attention to the fact that the regulator relay can be changed without getting it out of the car. Having unscrewed and detached it, turn it back up, remove the back cover and voila
In general, something like this I will listen to comments, criticism and words of boundless gratitude
Thank you for your attention! Yours sincerely
“Vectra has weak genes” cannot be.
Valio w - caffno.
Good report
I will add something from myself (while removing the generator). The voltage on the battery with the engine running was 10.6v
The main thing: - if you want to change only the relay-regulator (without removing) the generator itself from the car - this is not realistic. (unless by this moment the plastic inlet manifold is not removed for some purpose) then there will be access from the side.
Which personally took me a lot of time: -
- disconnecting the connectors from the engine control unit (metal rotary "flags" were very tight and reluctant to move
- nevertheless, it is much more convenient to drain the antifreeze by putting on a short tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm on the faucet (at the bottom left of the radiator) and unscrewing the plug from it will expand the tank
- a thick pipe from the radiator (going to the engine) can "stick" thoroughly - without removing it, the gene itself cannot be pulled out.
- very hard (long) twisted 2 bottom bolts (TORX E-14) fastening the generator to the block - one was not visible at all and the air conditioner tubes interfered - the floating "short" hinged extension from the set helped a little.
- it will not be possible to lift the tension roller with a standard wrench from the set - it will not get in there (the distance to the engine support is small - 20 mm). So you need to have a similar key as in the report ... But I went the other way: - lifted the roller tensioner using carpentry clamp (25-35 cm long) - (its fixed part rests against the belt with a roller and the movable part against the engine support) and is screwed all the way down (the roller goes up).
And Thanks to Valik for the good advice "along the way".
Check (dialing) showed (as expected) - faulty r / regulator (everything else is normal)
YouTube has videos on how to check the r / regulator with a change feed terminal.
Everything was ringing - to nothing (rotor and stator windings, diodes - everything turned out to be in good order and in very good condition (which, in principle, was 98% sure).
The assembly was much faster. (everything was done in sequence by itself). I cleaned all the insides with an old toothbrush and blew it with a compressor! Before assembling the genes, I recommend lubricating the threads of 4 bolts with kerosene VD 40 (the same) - it will be much easier to tighten (otherwise, when unscrewing the “ratchet” at 10 degrees, I remembered all the words I know).
As a result: - the new regulator immediately started to issue 14.4-14.5v at a Temperature of 0–2C (the battery was fully charged during the repair of the genes).
Old brushes have worn out by 2 mm (max) for 128 thousand with a total length of 16-20 mm. The wear on slip rings was not critical (it was sanded with sandpaper of different grain size: 120-800).
For the sake of interest, I will open the old river. regulator and see what's inside - rather a powerful field worker IRL covered himself.
It's a pity that the "geniuses" of engineering from OPEL didn’t think of it (despite the fact that the car was forced into a lot of what the competitors did not have at that time) to make the signaling device (indicator) of the termination of charging by a working generator (why then a light on the tidy).
The driver simply will not understand that the generator suddenly failed (when the steering wheel becomes "oak" when maneuvering). (but it is highlighted that the left one has burned out. The right front-rear lamp) - which is secondary in comparison with this BUG.
My first DIY repair for my car. Replacing a worn out generator and passing.
Opel Omega. THE GENERATOR DOES NOT GIVE CHARGING. We change the charging relay. assembling and installing the generator in place.
New Year's garland on the instrument panel Opel Vectra B Removing the generator from the Z18XE engine.
Thank you so much for watching my videos, tell your friends, leave comments, subscribe.
Never knock out or hammer in a bearing when replacing it in a vehicle's alternator. Enough heat.
it shows one of the reasons why charging on a car might be nasty and not only Opel.
opel vectra b x20xev replacement of brushes and voltage regulator on the generator.
How to check the overrunning alternator clutch On older cars, generators were installed.
This check does not give a 100% guarantee of adequate generator operation on the vehicle.
Opel Omega. the generator does not fully charge the battery. which may be the cause of the breakdown, wear of the brushes.
Moskvich, 2141, generator, Opel Vectra a, replacement, interchangeability, from Opel, to Muscovite, suitable, instead.
The generator was beaten and physically abused, which led to the failure of its winding.)) Mine.
How to find the required video - about it here Support the project! CARD (SBERBANK) - 427654002987381.
Repair of the Opel Zafira generator year of manufacture - 2008 engine capacity - 1.8 liters. fuel type - gasoline Voltazh Service-repair.
EXCEPT SMALL GENERATORS Removal
1. Remove the ground wire from the battery.
2. For improved access, disconnect the main air tube from the air filter, air box, or throttle body.
3. Tag and disconnect the electrical wires from the rear of the alternator 4. Remove the alternator drive belt.
5. Unscrew the two bolts and nuts and remove the washers and bushings, making note of their location. Mark the location of the grounding bar 6. Remove the generator.
Installation Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following points.
1. Secure the grounding bar with the top generator mounting bolt.
2. Install and adjust the tension of the alternator drive belt.
ALTERNATORS OF THE SMALL-SIZED SERIES Removal
1. Remove the ground wire from the battery.
2.For better access, remove the air intake and air filter.
3. If the alternator drive belt will be re-installed, mark the direction of rotation with chalk.
4. Using a wrench, turn the automatic tensioner roller clockwise as viewed from the right side of the vehicle and lock it in that position. After relieving tension on the drive belt, remove it from the pulleys and return the tensioning mechanism to its original position.
5. Tag and disconnect the electrical wires from the back of the generator.
6. Unscrew the bolt of the lower mounting of the generator. Loosen the upper bolts securing the generator bracket to the engine.
7. Remove the two bolts securing the alternator to the brackets, making note of the location of the bolts as they are of different lengths. Remove the generator.
1. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
2. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts to the required torque and install the drive belt.
DISABLING THE PASSENGER AIRBAG
WARNING When using a rear-facing child restraint in the front seat, the front airbag must be deactivated.Repair of minor damage to the body
Treating Body Scratches If the scratch is superficial and does not reach the metal, wipe the area around the scratch with paint refresher or a fine-grained abrasive paste. Rinse the surface with clean water.Repair of seriously damaged body panels
Such repairs are usually carried out using welding equipment and should be carried out in a car service workshop. In the case of extensive damage, first check that n.The reasoning of a car owner named Hasan: Comfort, heat and sound insulation, capacity, ease of operation, affordable price! Attractive appearance! Good cross-country ability.
Category: Car repair
Characteristics of the car: The dimensions of the car are as follows, body length - 3998, width - 1100, height - 1696 mm. The wheelbase is 2205 mm. The ground clearance is 224 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 4-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the motor. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The diameter of one cylinder is 75 mm, the piston stroke is 79 mm. The engine crankshaft and accelerates to 4000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 2000 rpm.
Posted by admin: at the request of Geliya
Original title: Pagkumpuni ng mga generator Opel Vectra at sa kanilang mga kamay
Release date: 29.02.2014
Video (click to play). Laughter in the subject: "The scribe has come, boyar!" - they said in Russia when the tax office appeared.
