DIY repair of the pramo 100a generator

To bother with what?
What kind of "mount"?

The connection there is exactly the same (well, a maximum of one rezyuk in the tidy should be bite out, if it is quite old, such as “mechanical” or “narrow-cut”).
RN no. the accuracy of regulation is better than all others.

Now the choice is, either Pramo 100 Ampere and it seems like an old-style regulator (the site does not say which one) to put and see if there is not enough voltage then the regulator. Because the native has already passed 80 thousand.
or kzate 115 ampere with a new regulator. Does it get if we put a regulator of a new model, then all we lose is a constantly burning light bulb on the instrument panel? It's just that if he is so effective and works much better, then it is natural for him. But if Pramo 100 A quite normally holds the voltage, then I will not get overwhelmed)))

Elorn Yes yes viburnum connector! Of course, the standard 80 ampere is only for replacement, in principle 100 amperes will be enough for me and there is no particular difference between 115 and even 130. Since the main stable voltage is not less than 14.2. If the gene is 200 amperes and the voltage is 13.2, then the sense from these amperes will not be just a dose. I just live far away and will order in Moscow, so I don’t want to look for zamarachivatsya, I just want to take a ready-made genich with a powerful boost! But as always, miracles do not happen in the world!

Elorn On the old-style panel, they say such a problem, I honestly won't lie, but the generator seems to already have everything you need, and the new-style regulator on the old panel permanently turns on the battery light due to the resistor in the socket. I honestly don't remember exactly how it is. forgot))) but it seems like that.
Well, then you have direct weighty arguments)))) If Pramo is not practicing now, then I will do as you say, current if not difficult then write what is needed and where))) And then I'm already confused)))

Elorn By the way, how did I get the PH but what is the voltage in the network? Minimum and maximum?

Every motorist who is interested in the device of his iron horse knows that the main source of electricity in the electrical equipment of any car is a power plant, which includes a storage battery, a generator and a relay-regulator. The battery is the main one in this trio. It feeds the entire on-board network of the car, and the generator with a relay-regulator, as far as possible and necessary, feeds the battery and makes sure that the on-board network of the car does not exceed the specified voltage (for cars with 12-volt equipment, this voltage is 14-14 , 6 V, and for a 24-volt - 27-28.8 V). And although the generators in the car are "long-playing" items, they still sometimes fail. Let's see what the Russian market offers us to replace a failed generator, and at the same time test the proposed models in our testing laboratory.

To begin with, a small educational program. The generator is necessary for uninterrupted charging of the constantly discharged battery by electrical appliances included in the vehicle's on-board network. Alternators are installed on modern machines. They best meet the requirements that apply to one of the most important power units in a car.

A generator converts mechanical energy from the engine into electrical energy. The voltage regulator (in the overwhelming majority of modern cars - a component of the generator, with rare exceptions when the regulator is "remote", that is, it is taken out into the engine compartment, separately from the generator) maintains the voltage of the vehicle's on-board network within specified limits when the electrical load changes,generator rotor speed and ambient temperature.

An automotive generator must provide an uninterrupted supply of current and have sufficient power to:

• to supply electricity to the battery, which is constantly discharged by working consumers onboard;
• when all regular consumers of electricity were turned on at low engine speeds, the battery was not discharged.

In addition, the generator must have sufficient strength, long service life, small weight and dimensions, low noise and radio interference levels.

Summing up all of the above, we can conclude that the generator is the heart of the car's electrics, which must always "beat" and provide a current for charging in order for the car to "live".

Realizing the importance of this automotive unit, we turned our attention to the market of generators for domestic cars.

For the comparative test, we purchased five car alternators from a general spare parts store. These are generators of the brands KZATE, LKD, Fenox, Pramo and StartVOLT. All of them are intended for installation on engines of VAZ cars.

Alternator 9402.3701-01 with built-in rectifier unit and analog voltage regulator (14 V; 80 A; 1.12 kW; 1200/6000 min -1; 4.9 kg) - JSC "Plant im. A. M. Tarasova "(JSC" ZiT ") - brand KZATE (Russia)

This generator is considered standard, since it is the generators of this plant that are supplied to the AvtoVAZ conveyor.

Assessment of the build quality did not cause any complaints. The generator is repairable.

A little about the assessment technique: to measure the current-voltage characteristic, the generators were installed on a specialized stand. The generators must provide the maximum current strength at a crankshaft speed from 1500 to 2500.

At 700 revolutions of the crankshaft per minute, this generator showed a current value within 40 A with a predisposition to "damping". When reaching the rated speed, the KZATE generator confirmed the declared 80 A and even reached the indicator of 90 A. Evaluating the reviews of motorists, we can say with confidence: this generator is a classic reliable version without a claim to outstanding performance, but guaranteeing trouble-free operation.

Tests of the KZATE generator at 700 rpm of the engine crankshaft

Tests of the KZATE generator at 2000-2500 rpm of the engine crankshaft

Alternator 9402.3701 P with built-in rectifier unit and analog voltage regulator (14 V; 100 A; 1.4 kW; 1200/6000 min -1; 4.85 kg) - LKD Electrical (China)

The LKD generator almost completely repeats the design of the KZATE generator described above. It is characterized by the same features in terms of workmanship and maintainability.

However, already when installed on the stand, the LKD generator showed its complete inoperability. When identifying the cause of the failure, a lack of soldering was found on the supply wire of the regulator relay. When considering the future of the generator, we decided to exclude it from testing. Even though it could take a few minutes to fix the problem, we decided to take the customer's position. Having paid the money, the consumer should not independently eliminate the manufacturer's defects and carry out revision on his own.

Lack of generator charge LKD

Subsequently, we inquired about consumer reviews on the Internet on this generator and found other negative responses to this subject, with the only difference that someone had to shell out a little more for him.

Alternator AL 21305 with built-in rectifier unit and analog voltage regulator (14 V; 80 A; 1.12 kW; 1200/5500 min -1; 5.6 kg) - Fenox Global Group (Belarus)

The Fenox brand generator is identical in design to the two previously described. However, upon examination of this generator, a higher quality of workmanship was found. Maintainability at the same level - requires the intervention of a trained specialist.Knowing the "sores" of such generators, we checked the tightening of the contacts. As it turned out, it was not in vain. Do not tighten them - the consequences would be sad, albeit in the foreseeable future: melting of the contacts due to the resulting transition resistances during the passage of large currents, the subsequent failure of the unit. In fact, this is more prevention than crime. All generators were subjected to this procedure.

Bench tests of the Fenox generator showed the following results. When operating at 700 revolutions of the crankshaft per minute, it was possible to reach values ​​at the level of 45-50 A with clear signs of "damping". With an increase in crankshaft speed to 2500, the generator gave out 90 A under load, but that was all.

Generator testing Fenox at 700 rpm engine crankshaft

Generator testing Fenox at 2000-2500 rpm of the engine crankshaft

Alternator 5102.3771 with built-in rectifier unit and analog voltage regulator (14 V; 100 A; 1.4 kW; 1200/5500 min -1; 5.4 kg) - CJSC Concern Pramo (Russia)

In terms of design, the Pramo brand generator is somewhat different from the three previous ones: a different casting is used, a different design of bearing supports is used. Fastening the bearings with flanges, among other things, made it possible to significantly increase the maintainability of the unit. For the repair of the bearing assembly of this generator, specialists with less qualifications can be involved.

The diode bridge of the generator also differs in design. The design exactly copies the design used in the Bosch generators. But the diode bridge itself is not repairable. The soldering of the terminals from the stator winding was carried out on a diode bridge. In general, maintainability is sacrificed for stable contact.

Bench tests of the Pramo generator showed the following results. When operating at 700 crankshaft revolutions per minute under load, it was possible to reach a value of 50 A. With an increase in crankshaft revolutions to 2500, the generator reached a value of 100 A under load.

Tests of the Pramo generator at 700 rpm of the engine crankshaft

Tests of the "Pramo" generator at 2000-2500 rpm of the engine crankshaft

Alternator "STARTVOLT" Lg 0110 with built-in rectifier unit and digital voltage regulator (14.6 V; 120 A; 1.9 kW; 1200/5500 min -1; 5.3 kg) - LLC Karvil (St. Petersburg)

By design, the "StartVOLT" brand generator is very close to such representatives as KZATE, LKD and Fenox. Its diode bridge is similar to them, with the exception of the presence of two additional power diodes, designed to produce additional power take-off, as the developer says. This is the so-called use of the third harmonic, which is simply not used in other generators.

The stator winding leads have no mechanical contacts. The stator winding leads are soldered on a diode bridge. The relay-regulator, unlike all the ones described above, is digital, not analog, again according to the manufacturer's statement, and it is also assumed that, among other things, “a field-effect transistor is installed on the output switch, which has zero resistance when opened, which ensures a decrease losses ".

Bearing units are also similar to those of KZATE, LKD and Fenox generators.

And the most important significant difference from all previous models is the declared current of 120 A!

We did not take the manufacturer's word for it, but bench tests of the "StartVOLT" generator showed the following results: when operating at 700 crankshaft rpm under load, it was possible to reach 60 A. load! De facto, this is almost 50% more than that of the standard KZATE generator.

Tests of the "StartVOLT" generator at 700 rpm of the engine crankshaft

Tests of the "StartVOLT" generator at 2000-2500 rpm of the engine crankshaft

So, let's summarize the interim results.With practically identical designs, the "highlight" of the "StartVOLT" generator made it possible to achieve 30-50% better performance than those of potential competitors. It remains for us to bring the measurement data into a table, put down prices and expert estimates.

The classic model of the standard generator of the KZATE company is in demand among motorists, although it must be said that the increased demand for more powerful generators is a requirement of the time. Therefore, this model, despite its quality and the level of the manufacturer itself, is morally outdated. Therefore, our choice fell on the generator of the company "StartVOLT" as more interesting in terms of real characteristics.

In order to repair the VAZ 2115 generator, of course it needs to be disassembled. This vehicle is equipped with an Eltra 5102.3771 80A 14B generator.

The generator top cover is secured with three screws. For further disassembly of the VAZ 2115 generator, the voltage regulator is removed (held by 2 nuts on "8" and a screw for a flat screwdriver). Before unsoldering the leads of the diode bridge (they are soldered, not screwed on), you need to clean off all oxidation and dirt with a metal brush. If there are no obvious problems with the diode bridge or winding, then we check the generator with a tester. If, in addition to the electrical part, the bearings are also loose or the slip rings are worn out, then we also proceed to replace them (the appropriate number of slip rings is code 120950 IKA; bearings - Koyo 62022RSCM rear and 63032RSCM front). The rings are easily soldered off and removed from the rotor. And of course you will have to tinker with bearings a little longer.

You can clearly see how to disassemble an Eltra generator on a VAZ 2115 and its repair with the procedure for replacing a diode bridge or voltage regulator, in the video.

Welcome!
A generator is an electrical appliance that supplies current to the car's on-board network and charges the battery when the engine is running, if it fails, then the first problem that starts with the car is the battery charge lamp (we'll talk about this lamp a little later) and on the car in the direct sense after that you can't drive, the whole point is that the ignition system of any car that runs on gasoline consumes electricity and conducts it (high-voltage wires, spark plugs and other units are connected), thereby the engine is running, and if suddenly the battery runs out and current will no longer be supplied to the on-board network, then the car will simply stall and will no longer start until the battery is charged again.

Note!
To carry out the generator repair procedure, you will need to stock up on: Necessarily a multi-meter and, if possible, a control lamp, as well as a screwdriver, various kinds of keys (spanners, caps, and so on), in addition, you will also need a marker and a fine-grained skin!

Summary:

Note!
As you already understood, the best way to check is with the help of a multi-meter, which has a voltmeter function (and everyone has one), so if you still decide to check it, then remember the current that should be on the battery when the engine is running equals about 13-14.5 volts, if it is less then either the battery is completely discharged, or the generator has become unusable, in this case, try to accelerate, for this, briefly press the gas pedal and remove your foot from it, if the current supply has increased, then the battery is discharged , if nothing happened, then try to do this again and remember, if the current is less than 12 volts, which is no longer acceptable, then after a very short time the battery will be completely discharged and you will no longer be able to start the car (To start the car, you need at least 11.5 volts , if the battery produces less, then starting the engine will already be problematic)!

Note!
The generator is not very difficult to understand, it is difficult to check it, especially if you don’t know how to use the multi-meter, and even if you can, there may still be errors, it’s just that the multi-meter will not always be able to show accurate data (Each has its own error) and therefore we recommend that you, before proceeding to work on disassembly, simply disconnect the cover from the generator and check the brushes (They most often fail) and, if necessary, replace them with new ones (By the way, if only one brushes are worn out, then even the generator can not be removed from the car, but simply disconnect the cover from it and, armed with a short screwdriver, unscrew the two screws that fasten the voltage regulator and then, taking out the regulator, look at the very brushes that are located on it and which must be replaced with strong wear)!

Disassembly:
1) First, remove it (How to remove a generator, read the article: "Replacing a generator on VAZ cars"), then on the sides, bend three latches that attach the plastic cover, thanks to which dirt and water does not get into the generator, after the latches will be bent (just do not break them), remove the cover from the generator and put it aside, as shown in the small photo.

2) Then unscrew the two side screws that attach the voltage regulator to the generator (the screws are indicated by red arrows, and the regulator itself is blue) and then remove the regulator from the generator, well, only when you take it off, disconnect the wiring from it like in the photo in the corner shown, otherwise the regulator simply will not be removed from the car generator.

4) After that, unscrew the four screws that secure the diode bridge to the generator and bend the three wire leads that are connected to the diode bridge so that they allow it to be removed and do not interfere at all, after the operation done, do not rush to remove the diode bridge, but unscrew another screw that the capacitor secures or unscrew the nut that secures the wire coming from it, and only then can you remove the diode bridge from the generator, you can read more about this capacitor below.

Note!
Capacitor - thanks to it, the current coming from the diode bridge is leveled and goes to the battery more even, without interruptions and without strong fluctuations, you can remove it both together with the diode bridge, and separately, if you want together, just unscrew the screw that secures it (Indicated red arrow) and then remove, if you want separately, then unscrew the nut which attaches the capacitor wire to the hairpin (indicated by the blue arrow) and then remove this wire from the hairpin!

5) Next, take the marker in your hands and make a mark on both covers as shown in the small photo, after these marks are made, unscrew four screws in a circle (Three of them are indicated by arrows, one is not visible) and disconnect both covers.

6) Next, unscrew the nut that secures the generator pulley (It is indicated by the red arrow) and then remove the pulley, it can be most easily unscrewed by clamping the rotor (This is only when the covers are already disconnected) in a vice, but just clamp it gently, and even better put some cloth, as soon as the nut is unscrewed, remove the rotor shaft from the bearing which is in the cover (see small photo), then remove the spacer ring from the shaft and inspect it.

7) And at the end of all operations, inspect the last parts and check some of them, namely, inspect both covers, there should be no cracks or traces of deformation on them, check both bearings (Front and rear), they must rotate normally, do not stick where they should not and grease should not flow from them either, otherwise the bearings are pressed out using a special puller and replaced with new ones, then take the stator in your hands and inspect it, it should be in good condition and there should be absolutely no bare wiring, check it with a test lamp,to do this, turn on the control to a 220 Volt network and alternately connect it between all the terminals as shown in photo 1, with each connection the lamp should light up, otherwise the stator is faulty and the stator still needs to be checked if it shorts to ground, this is also done easily and with the help of the same control lamp, see photo 2 in more detail, where the lamp is alternately connected to all the terminals of the stator winding, and the wire from the current source to the stator case, but only in this case the lamp should not light if lights up, this means that there is a short circuit and the stator must be replaced with a new one.

Assembly:
All the parts are assembled in the reverse order, only during assembly, orient the covers as they were installed before (Everything is done according to the marks), and the spring washer of the generator pulley will need to be placed with the convex side to the nut and the pulley fastening nut, tighten with a torque of 39- 62 N • m (3.9-b, 2 kgf • m), which can be done with a torque wrench and what else, during assembly, orient the capacitor (if you removed it together with the diode bridge) relative to the mounting protrusion on the cover , just like it is in the photo below.

Additional video clip:
You can see the process of overhauling the generator on VAZ 2110 cars in the video below:

Note!
Another process of disassembling and assembling the generator is shown in another video, you can also find it just below:

Hello everyone, and Happy New Year! I figured out my gene, I don’t know what caused the truth! And so I did it: replacing the voltage regulator, replacing the brushes, replacing the diode bridge, dialing the diode bridge, dialing the rotor, stator, winding, lubricated the bearing , I cleaned all the contacts, washed the whole thing (with gasoline), pereretres all the wiring that is connected with the gene! I don’t know what worked! And so the results: 800-1000 rpm with this included: 2 stoves, high beam headlights, light in the cabin, radio tape recorder, light in the engine compartment, the voltage was -14.4 - 14.8! when the engine speed is added, the voltage rises to 15.3! No defects were found when dialing the stator, rotor, diode bridge! When replacing each of the elements (replacing the voltage regulator, replacing the brushes), the position did not change! After the bulkhead, I received the following results. ALL MANY THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.

Well, the most important thing was figured out and everything worked, it was probably charged with a positive :-))

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jenia2627 30 Dec 2013

Well, the most important thing was figured out and everything worked, it was probably charged with a positive :-))

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CountriesNik 31 Dec 2013

when the engine speed is added, the voltage rises to 15.3!

a bit too much. RN native gazelle is worth?

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jenia2627 31 Dec 2013

a bit too much. RN native gazelle is worth?

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CountriesNik 31 Dec 2013

then change to another (not native, at least three-level, whatever you can think of). I also had such nonsense, I inserted a tablet from 2108 into the box from our PH.

when opening 3 pieces, only the one that was assembled on the car according to the scheme, the rest according to a simplified one, one even self-driving ..

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Splav61 01 Jan 2014

Bought pramo 100a
Worked for 3 months
charging 12.7 Under load
Maybe minus shit or a gene.

Bought pramo 100a
Worked for 3 months
charging 12.7 Under load
Maybe minus shit or a gene.

Carry out diagnostics and MOT and you will be happy.
By the way, I sell a second-hand Pramo generator after repair (the diode bridge has been replaced) along with a three-mode.

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Sashok856 01 Jan 2014

I have a 72 ampere generator. burned out a year ago from a starter (they gave 24 volts) in it the voltage regulator burned out .. took it to a specialist, he went through it and went

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Splav61 01 Jan 2014

Guys, and the regulator is rarely suitable for kate.

Guys, and the regulator is rarely suitable for kate.

No, constructively. I burned the diode bridge on the spot, I didn't find it in the provinces, I had to buy a new generator.Recently I installed a three-mode on a new generator and compared it with pramo, there are design features.

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countryNik 03 Jan 2014

constructively. I burned the diode bridge on the spot, I didn't find it in the provinces, I had to buy a new generator.

but what prevented the constructive use of only brushes? everything is practically the same

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VOYAGE74 05 Jan 2014

Wiring to ground, the lamp is off,. The wire rang. The whole to the tidy. I check the "+" on the tidy, the lamp is off.

I throw "=" on a straight line on the lamp lights up. Probably skis do not go.

Post has been editedBROTHER74:05 January 2014 - 16:36

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Leha306 52 05 Jan 2014

Wiring to ground, the lamp is off. the wire rang. whole to tidy. I check on the tidy "+" is, the lamp is off.
I throw "=" on a straight line on the lamp lights up. Probably skis do not go.

Where do you connect that lamp to light up.

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VOYAGE74 05 Jan 2014

Where do you connect that lamp to light up.

Wire directly to the light bulb.

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Leha306 52 05 Jan 2014

Wire directly to the light bulb.

So throw it directly at the gene! And look!

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VOYAGE74 05 Jan 2014

So throw it directly at the gene! And look!

So it turned him on. every morning, right now, and it doesn't help.

Because of this, the gene had to change on the track, put a new one again, the same nonsense, and did not work for a month!

Post has been editedBROTHER74:05 January 2014 - 17:21

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Leha306 52 05 Jan 2014

So it turned him on. every morning, right now, and it doesn't help.

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VOYAGE74 06 Jan 2014

Nifiga is not a generator. the contact on the instrument panel (on the board) went off by soldering, soldered, everything works.

Post has been editedBROTHER74: 06 January 2014 - 13:43

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prayn Jan 07, 2014

There was such a problem, I changed all the wiring, everything works, but there is only one problem, I don’t understand how to connect the battery charge lamp on the dashboard.

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shura 60 07 jan 2014

Roll back a dozen pages and read.

And if the generator of the old model should be at 402, then the lamp in the tidy should not be used.

Post has been editedShurak 60:07 January 2014 - 14:25

I wanted to make an external PP.
While dealing with various options, I disassembled the “spare” native tablet.
More precisely, I did not want to disassemble it, but painfully unfaithful thoughts flashed in my head. Disassembled and rang.

It turns out that the PP is NOT SUPPLIED + 12V from the network. only voltage from additional diodes.
(Of course, everyone knows that + 12V is connected to the additional diodes from the network, but through a light bulb and resistance).

I want to note that the generator itself, I have not yet disassembled, but there is only one contact for voltage, and you need to apply voltage to it with additional. diodes, otherwise the light will not go out.

The scheme is probably like “generators 16.3771 and 6651.3701” here https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3570/electro.htm

Question: How will the generator in this circuit maintain the given output voltage?

P.S. time is late and the head no longer cooks. I think everything will be fine in the morning.

Probably the time was really late.
This is the manufacturer's website, this is the rear view:

Where, then, if not to the PP, is the D + terminal connected?

So what I'm talking about. It turns out that the PP connection scheme guarantees the maintenance of a given voltage on the additional diodes, but not at the generator output.

Yes, the main thing is not to take out, but the installation of the correct one! Takeaway is a bonus.

And in general, what is the point in such a scheme? It initially fails to work. What for to squirm additional windings, additional diodes and connect everything according to a curve scheme? It doesn't look like saving.
Crooked hands of an engineer?
I don't think it is likely, there is rather a pitfall,

Damn, my head works better today. I saw the diagram yesterday, but I missed it.
Figure 3.g.

Or not, in this case, you need 3 brushes, and I only have 2. Although I would not be surprised if the ninus goes through the mount (so to speak, immediately to the ground, through the bearings, etc.).

I guess I have a simpler scheme -generator.htm
In this case, you can put a normal remote PP.

Only I'm afraid that the voltage of the additional winding did not burn the PP.
Suppose we control the voltage at the output, the load has increased, the voltage has dropped, we give more excitation, while in addition to the increase in the voltage at the output, the voltage on the auxiliary winding rises and the PP is now powered by the increased voltage. Then we turn off the load - the voltage jumps, and on the additional winding it is even higher.

And the automobile generator in the modern sense is generated by the love of mankind for electric light. Cars of the dawn of motoring era had only the simplest unit called "magneto" - a miniature generator, combined with an ignition breaker, integrated into the engine housing and emitting extremely high-voltage pulses for the spark plugs. It was impossible to connect either a lamp or any other consumer of electricity to the magneto, so the cars of the 19th century lit the road with carbide lamps in which acetylene burned - there was no need to wait for help from the internal combustion engine ...

However, it soon became obvious that the car's engine should generate more electricity: not only for its own operation, but also for the operation of external consumers - headlights, horn, front panel measuring instruments, battery charging, and the like. Therefore, next to the high-voltage "spark" winding of the magneto, an additional winding appeared - a low-voltage one, which provides on-board voltage. MAGNETO + DINAMO machine = magdino. This was the name of the first generators.

But since magneto and magdino are traditionally built directly into the engine, their power is limited by their small size. And as soon as it became clear that an increase in the power of generators was inevitable, the "gene" became external - it moved to a bracket on the cylinder block and began to receive rotation from an external transmission - belt, and sometimes chain or gear.

The first generators produced direct current, but after the development of the semiconductor industry in the middle of the twentieth century and the appearance of powerful rectifier diodes, generators began to produce alternating current, which was then rectified to constant by diode bridges. The change in the type of current made it possible to abruptly several times reduce the size and weight of the generators, and increase their power.

Actually, the modern generator is almost identical to that of the machines developed 10, 20, 30 and more years ago. Engines and gearboxes become more complex year after year, and almost the main external generating set remains practically unchanged. Its design is imperfect, but it is a golden balance of properties and cost. However, additional units and improvements appear - for example, instead of an elementary belt pulley, an overrunning clutch can be installed on the generator, as in a starter bendix, or the number of coils in the stator winding increases and the diode bridge becomes more complicated, but most generators still get by with the classic design.

Two halves of the body, cast from aluminum, form a "barrel" and are bolted together. Inside the "barrel" there is a ring winding - the stator coil, from which we remove the alternating voltage. Outside, a diode bridge is connected to this winding, covered with a plastic protective half-cover and making a constant voltage from the alternating voltage. An axle passes through the generator housing - a shaft rotating on two bearings and driven behind a pulley by a belt from the engine crankshaft.

A rotor with a coil inside - an electromagnet - is installed on the generator shaft and rotates with it. Through a pair of sliding contacts and carbon brushes, a voltage regulator supplies a control current to it, making sure that the generator outputs 14 volts - without a regulator, the voltage value will depend on the speed and can reach several tens of volts, dangerous for 12-volt automotive electrical equipment.