In detail: do-it-yourself Volkswagen b3 generator repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Previously the front in the brother's Toyota Altezza Next Wiring diagrams Passat B 3 part2.
Repair Volkswagen Passat B 3 -B4 / Passat B3-B4 >> Electrical equipment >> Generator >> Generator check. - connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals; - while observing the voltmeter readings, start the engine.
VW Passat B3 repair> Electrical equipment> Battery charging lamp Volkswagen Passat B 3. Roller, one wire on the generator - excitation (thin blue wire), the second wire - power supply 13, 5 V through the fan.
When unscrewing the nut, keep the pulley from turning by installing the socket wrench into the end of the shaft; - mark the relative position of the housing 21 and the front cover 9 of the generator, unscrew the screws 7 and remove the front cover of the generator together with the rotor. If one person has built it, another will always be able to disassemble it. Hold for 30 seconds about revolutions and everything is fine. If the starter motor refuses to operate when the ignition key is in the correct position, this may be due to the following:
For ignition, black wires are tightly wired strange he had a coupe of 81 years old with an old non-knife fuse box I have not just an old, but very old fuse box with cylindrical fuses and one row of relays, I want to put things in order in the wiring, otherwise block such a beard made of tangled wires The fuse block coincides with what is indicated on the page in the manual, but it does not have an upper row of relays at all, and in the middle row there are only three relays, it looks like this naphotozhopil from that circuit, cutting out the excess: simple - to change all the wiring from the golf-2 to dorestyle, everything will match, the instrument panel had several modifications at once, there are a dozen wires to get there correctly, we have only one under-hood bundle, on the golf the right side goes along the engine shield, inside the cabin to the main connector of the buttons, everything is the same golf -2 on every disassembly is. With my experience, I can’t pull such an operation.
Video (click to play). |
If I had everything connected perfectly as it should, then it would be possible to simply disconnect and connect as it was, but in fact, after the previous owners, they threw out a lot of "unnecessary" things, and I have to look for it. Between the PDU and the engine compartment, with the help of an assistant, find a donor - lay out the wiring, everything is done so that you can’t beguiled - all the connectors go to their place and nowhere else Hello everyone!
From the generator, 3 wires leave the connector 1 yellow and 2 red, all this is hidden in the protective wiring bus. As far as I remember, it goes to the charging indicator lamp, to excite it. Correct if I'm wrong. A light bulb is a non-linear element that is a source of excitation of the generator.
When removing and connecting the generator, it may not be excited and charging does not go. For this I have made a connector, in the area of acc. We just short-circuit the wire for plus acc. It can be repeated once, then he himself is normally excited. The question is about the scheme, tell me in the harness of the right side of the motor near the battery there are four wires, two of them are 4kV and two are 1kV, one blue for the generator, but the second is red with a black stripe, where is it?
Better download a book on electrical, everything is there. HERE People tell me which fuse is responsible for what on this circuit? Enter the numbers and letters visible in the picture.The user needs to go to Profile - Personal account. Then try again. Please go to the forum and try again. Log in to the forum as usual, and then in the Login Methods Profile, make a link.
If you recently changed your username or password, you need to re-enter the forum once as usual. Maintenance work at the service.
Some of the functionality may be unavailable for some time. Forum of Volkswagen Passat B2 owners. Posts 1 page 30 of Spent on the forum: 4 months 14 days.
Last visit: Today Car data: VW Passat Variant 1. The same is in the archive :. Spent on the forum: 8 days 16 hours. Auto data:, 1. The same thing only in color.
I did it according to the legend on the first page. Spent on the forum: 2 days 6 hours. Car data: VW-Passat B2. PASSABEST wrote a: Same thing only in color. Spent on the forum: 4 hours 33 minutes. Car data: passat b2 variant 1,8 pierburg. Please tell me, I changed the fuse box, like everything was connected by colors, but it stopped starting, and the turn indicator on the instrument panel when the ignition is turned on, while the turns themselves do not work when turned on, and the spark disappeared during the campaign, can anyone tell me where it is possible to view the diagram, preferably in color or pinout of plugs.
Excessive noise when the generator is running or undercharging the battery may indicate that the car's generator may soon fail altogether. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to remove and check the generator.
To remove and repair the Bosch Volkswagen Passat B3 generator, you can use the tips by watching this video clip. In this case, one of the owners of VW Passat B3 on the Bosch generator has worn out bearings and in order to make repairs, you need to remove the generator belt, the generator itself and disassemble it. By performing a similar procedure, you can make sure that the so-called generator tablet is working, as well as check the belt wear (at the same time, it is possible to change it).
How to remove the Passat B3 generator, change the belt, bearings and the Bosch generator tablet for the Volkswagen Passat B3 do it yourself, see the video clearly.
Dear drayvovchane, salute to everyone! I hasten to wish you a Happy New Year! Hurray, comrades! In my plan for 2012, one major event was not completed - the generator bulkhead. Well, I still don't think about the backlighting of the stove, because these are trifles. Everything will be afterwards. In the last entry (which was made a year ago 🙂) I said that the generator bulkhead will be next year. And he came. In general, I wanted to remove the generator yesterday, but for some reason I did not want to do it and said what I would do today. I am not fond of alcohol, but not that I am fond of, I do not use it at all, because I do not see the point in this. At the festive table, I just drank a 3-liter can of compote and that's it, so there is no hangover 🙂 Arriving at the garage today, I started it, then I took a multimeter and measured the voltage of the generator when everything was turned off in the car (it only works with a motor) and therefore turned it on low beam, rear and front PTF, heated rear window and tape recorder. I did this in order to see if there were any changes after the bulkhead. Then we'll see. You can watch the voltage measurement process. I took care of it 🙂
Okay, let's move on.
A condenser was next to the brushes. He doesn't look important.
I didn’t change it, there will be fewer things to do, but things still have to be done normally. The new pantograph will be waiting in the wings.
Well, now you can remove the bearings. There were no problems with the small bearing. I quickly did everything with the puller.
Message 11piligrim11 Feb 20, 2014 1:37 am
(originally posted on vento-club.com by Ksilen)
Due to the drop in the battery charge voltage and the appearance of noise during the operation of the generator, it was necessary to “reanimate” it, and indeed to reanimate it, since the autopsy showed that urgent transplantation of several organs was required.
Let's start with the fact that the 120A Bosch generator with the partner number 0123510006 (028903025R) and its cost (the original, with this particular partner number) in terms of existential is 61000r, of course there are analogues, much cheaper, but still.
I don’t worry about simple and understandable stages, I’ll just mention it. So let's go.
First, remove the terminals from the battery in order to prevent a short circuit when dismantling the generator, then dismantle the wiring, this requires a 13 key (ratchet head) to remove the wire from the main terminal of the generator, then an 8 head to remove the wire holder sleeve.
Disconnect the excitation signal connector.
Now the dismantling of the genes.
With a power screwdriver, a thin pry bar, or a 17 key, bend the tensioner roller bar to release and throw off the belt.
To make it more convenient - you need to remove the air filter housing and unscrew one (closest to the bumper) plastic frame for attaching the filter housing.
Now you need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the generator. This requires a ratchet with a short extension and a 13-point head. It is better to rip off the bolts with a spanner wrench so as not to strain the ratchet.
The lower bolt is unscrewed without an extension, because the ratchet rests against the spar and will not allow it to be unscrewed.
After these simple manipulations, the generator is removed from the bracket, if you do not want to remove it, you should carefully help it with a pry bar or a sludge screwdriver.
To disassemble the generator, you need to sweat, in the absence of specials. keys (and I'm sure that most of the people do not have those, so we will exclude their use) here we need additional devices, we prepare right away:
1. Drill with a drill for metal F4-5
2. Phillips screwdriver
3. Gas key
4. Bit - asterisk # 8
5. Head 24
6. Bearing puller.
These are basic, additional ones are used. screwdrivers and so on.
he coped with the big bearing without any problems, so it was decided - Take.
What is the peculiarity - very thin legs, which slip under the bearing without any problems, and the distance for maneuver is not more than 4 mm - which undoubtedly complicates the use of non-specialized pullers.
The second bearing can also be removed without any problems.
Further worse, slip rings, since they are pretty worn out, it was decided to replace them.
Disconnect the 2 wires in the coolant from the current collector terminals.
Then (at first) I used a screwdriver to pry it off, but with a screwdriver I only crumbled the body of the current collector, and returned all to the same bearing puller.
I picked up the sides to be shorter to fix the puller legs, and hooked it to the lower slip ring.
It was scary that the puller would simply break the copper ring, but the puller worked clearly and completed the task without problems (do not be afraid of clicks - it seems that everything is cracking, but this is the sound of plastic sliding over the metal).
And here is the dismantled current collector.
Well, everything is sorted out. This stage has been completed.
Stage 3 - ordering and spare parts.
Why this stage is here - and not earlier - only because it is not known which parts are out of order and which are not.
Summarize
1. Slip ring
2. Front bolster
3. Rear bearing
4. Brush holder
Torque —— 63032RS —— Generator bearing —— 88.25r.
Koyo —— 6203 2RS —— Generator bearing —— 215.11r.
Huco —— 13 0552 —— Generator regulator —— 582.06 rubles.
Ika —— 1 2039 0 —— Generator contact ring —— 93.12r.
The total cost of 978 rubles is 54 kopecks. (price varies depending on the manufacturer of the parts)
Step 4 Reassemble in reverse order.
All the necessary parts have come.
In addition, screws have been added to the list - 4x20 countersunk. Since we drilled them when disassembling the generator. And also the belt tensioner roller, as the native also hummed.
The slip ring is put on by light tapping with a hammer through a wooden block, wires are soldered to it.
The small bearing is clogged with a suitable mandrel.
The large (front) bearing is first pressed into the body, and then, together with the body, is put on the anchor, tightening the pulley nut, it is pulled tightly (do not forget the distance washer, which was there)
then a simple assembly of the case and voila - you're done!
The last stage remains - installation in place.
A failed generator is a huge problem for the car. In the end, not having received a sufficient charge, your car can be damaged for a long time. We advise you not to try to disassemble everything and everywhere, you can use simple tools to make not only diagnostics, but also perform repairs afterwards.
Repairs are also advised to be performed at least with some experience behind them. If not, then it is better to contact a specialist.
How to recognize the cause of a breakdown?
Of course, we must determine whether the required current charge is being supplied to your battery.
If you have checked and made sure that everything is in order with the charge, then we will look for the cause in the generator.
First, we dismantle the generator.
It is not very difficult to remove the generator, prepare the tools. We need wrenches, hex keys and pliers larger.
Take a seventeen-head wrench from the set and use it to loosen the tension on the drive belt.
After we take the thirteen key, it will help unscrew the top mount.
When you remove the mount, it will be difficult to pull out the bolt, you can take pliers if you have difficulty.
Take the hex and remove the bolt, now we can access the radiator.
Look, there are slots in the collector, they are provided for a reason, they will help to remove the wires that have a positive charge.
Dismantle the top cover, plastic, now you can check the brush-collector assembly for safety. Sometimes small parts, such as slip rings and brushes, simply fail.
Now check the power supply, it is responsible for the voltage. Connect the lamp and give 11 volts, the lamp should be on, and when, for example, you raise the glow, it should weaken.
We need to check every detail of the generator, we also check the diode bridge. Diodes should pass current exclusively in one direction, if in two directions, then replace them.
Below you will find detailed instructions in the form of a video link.
The top-of-the-line Lada Xray Crоss will cost one hundred thousand rubles more than the standard.
Avtovaz told how much the new product will cost. Currently, the manufacturer only spoke about the price of a car with a manual transmission.
Customers will be presented with only one version of a car with a gasoline engine, the power of the unit reaches 122 "horses" per 1.8 liters. The initial cost of the SUV is 730 thousand rubles. For this amount, the client will be able to purchase a basic version called "Classic", which includes only a 5-speed manual.
The package also includes front airbags that can be adjusted in height.
Next comes "Comfоrt", which costs 809 thousand rubles, the cost is indicated only for a manual transmission. For this cost, the car will receive additional heated seats, mirrors, rear parking sensors, fog lights and, of course, the main feature is a system that allows you to select modes.
The top-end equipment will enter the market at a cost of 860 thousand rubles, the version with the Préstige package will be more expensive, about 890 thousand rubles. The version for 860 thousand provides for heated seats, windshield, steering wheel, light and rain sensors, the second version also adds modern multimedia with a 7-inch screen, navigation and additional speakers.
If you analyze the indicators for the first six months of 2018, you will notice that Lada Xray is in the top popular.
Check in the following order:
- check and, if necessary, adjust the tension of the alternator drive belt;
- connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals;
- while observing the voltmeter readings, start the engine. In the starter mode, the voltage may drop to 9 V;
- increase the engine speed to 4000 min – 1, while the voltage should increase to 13.7–14.6 V, which indicates the normal operation of the generator and voltage regulator;
- at an engine speed of 4000 min – 1, turn on the main beam of headlights or other powerful consumers of electricity, while the voltage drop should be no more than 0.4 V;
- in case of significant voltage deviations during testing, have the generator checked by a specialized workshop.
Remove in the following order:
- disconnect the "negative" wire from the battery terminal;
In this case, information is erased from the memory of electronic storage devices.
Rice. 15.1. Fastening the generator of a carburetor or eight-valve engine of a car with a fuel injection system: 1, 7, 10 - bolt; 2 - eyelet; 3 - tension bar; 4 - an adjusting nut; 5 - bolt М8х35; 6 - generator; 8 - bracket; 9 - impeller; 11 - pulley; 12 - drive belt; 13 - washer; 14 - nut
Rice. 15.2. Fastening of the generator of a sixteen-valve engine of a car with a fuel injection system: 1 - fastening pins; 2 - tension bar; 3 - bolt; 4 - bracket; 5 - generator; 6 - impeller; 7 - pulley; 8 - drive belt; 9 - washer; 10 - nut
- loosen the bolt fastening the generator to the bracket and bolts 4 (Fig. 15.1) or 3 (Fig. 15.2) adjusting the belt tension, then turn the generator towards the engine;
- remove the belt 12 (see fig. 15.1) or 8 (see fig. 15.2) from the pulley 11 (see fig. 15.1) or 7 (see fig. 15.2) of the generator;
Rice. 15.3. Bosch generator: 1 - nut; 2, 4, 12 - washer; 3 - pulley; 5 - distance sleeve; 6 - impeller; 7, 8, 17, 23, 26 - screw; 9 - front cover; 10 - bearing; 11 - bearing holder; 13 - segment key; 14 - rotor; 15 - bearing; 16 - stator; 18 - diode block; 19 - bushing; 20 - plastic sleeve; 21 - generator body; 22 - voltage regulator with a brush holder; 24 - gasket; 25 - capacitor; 27 - nut; 28 - spring washer; 29 - nut, 30 - spring washer; 31 - gasket; 32 - spacer
- mark the location of the electrical wires on the back of the generator, then disconnect them from the generator (fig. 15.3);
- remove the bolt fastening the alternator to the bracket and the belt tension adjustment bolt and remove the alternator;
- unscrew and remove the fastening bracket 8 (see Fig. 15.1) or 4 (see Fig. 15.2).
When repairing a generator, remember:
- that the diodes located in the generator are sensitive to high temperatures. If it is necessary to replace them during the soldering process, hold their leads with metal tweezers, which removes heat from the soldering iron tip, and also limit the soldering time to the required minimum:
- do not use an ungrounded electric soldering iron, as if its insulation is damaged, it will cause a breakdown of the rectifier diodes of the generator;
- during control tests of the generator, the supply voltage should not exceed 14V;
- in the process of checking rectifier diodes, direct current with a voltage of no more than 24 V can be used;
- Use only gasoline to clean the parts. Dry the parts (especially windings) immediately after cleaning with compressed air.
Disassemble in the following order:
- unscrew the nut 1 (see Fig. 15.3) of the rotor shaft, remove the pulley 3, the impeller 6 and the spacer from the shaft. When unscrewing the nut, keep the pulley from turning by installing the socket wrench into the end of the shaft;
- remove the key 13 from the shaft;
- unscrew the screws 23 and remove the voltage regulator together with the brushes 22;
- mark the relative position of the housing 21 and the front cover 9 of the generator, unscrew the screws 7 and remove the front cover of the generator together with the rotor 14. When removing the front cover, it can be knocked down with a hammer with a plastic striker;
The owner of the Passat B3 came to the repair, with a complaint about the generator, or rather, the lack of battery charge. The generator was removed and tested on the bench and showed no problems.Then something incomprehensible began - the generator at the stand works, both under load and without, but did not work on the machine. The reason for this phenomenon surprised me.
The owner Passat B3 came to repair, complaining about the generator, or rather, the lack of battery power. The generator was removed and checked at the stand, and showed no problems. Then began something not clear-the generator on the bench works, and under load and without, and by the machine did not work. The reason for this phenomenon surprised me.
#generator repairpassatb3
Video A rare case! Repair of the Passat b3 generator. Everyday life of an auto electrician. altevaa TV channel
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Additional "mass" on the generator Volkswagen Passat B3, this is not the most important addition to the design, but still necessary.
The fact is that if a car has served faithfully for a long time, then we simply do not pay attention to many components and assemblies, this also applies to the generator. Who can remember the last time he unscrewed it for prevention. It is a common thing to change the alternator belt and forget about the existence of this necessary unit for a long time.
Everyone knows that the generator is connected with a "plus" to the electrical system of the car, and many completely forget that the "minus" on the generator is its body ("mass"). So over time, between the generator housing and its mountings, corrosion, oxidation occurs from time to time and simply from the fact that our roads are sprinkled with salt in winter. Hence the bad "mass", and this is not a recharge of the battery and all the problems that result from it, weak voltage in the on-board network, incorrect instrument readings and, most importantly, incorrect readings on the "brains" of the car and, naturally, a failure in the ignition and mixture formation system. Immediately you will not guess that the bad "mass" of the generator is to blame. On many Volkswagen Passat B3 repair forums, the owners described the problems that arose due to the poor "mass" of the generator and came to the conclusion that the additional "mass" is not the last addition to the design of the car, especially since it is not difficult to install it - all the necessary holes are provided by the manufacturer.
How to put additional "mass" on the generator can be clearly seen in the photo.
Message 11piligrim11 Feb 20, 2014 1:37 am
(originally posted on vento-club.com by Ksilen)
Due to the drop in the battery charge voltage and the appearance of noise during the operation of the generator, it was necessary to “reanimate” it, and indeed to reanimate it, since the autopsy showed that urgent transplantation of several organs was required.
Let's start with the fact that the 120A Bosch generator with the partner number 0123510006 (028903025R) and its cost (the original, with this particular partner number) in terms of existential is 61000r, of course there are analogues, much cheaper, but still.
I don’t worry about simple and understandable stages, I’ll just mention it. So let's go.
First, remove the terminals from the battery in order to prevent a short circuit when dismantling the generator, then dismantle the wiring, this requires a 13 key (ratchet head) to remove the wire from the main terminal of the generator, then an 8 head to remove the wire holder sleeve.
Disconnect the excitation signal connector.
Now the dismantling of the genes.
With a power screwdriver, a thin pry bar, or a 17 key, bend the tensioner roller bar to release and throw off the belt.
To make it more convenient - you need to remove the air filter housing and unscrew one (closest to the bumper) plastic frame for attaching the filter housing.
Now you need to unscrew the 2 bolts securing the generator. This requires a ratchet with a short extension and a 13-point head. It is better to rip off the bolts with a spanner wrench so as not to strain the ratchet.
The lower bolt is unscrewed without an extension, because the ratchet rests against the spar and will not allow it to be unscrewed.
After these simple manipulations, the generator is removed from the bracket, if you do not want to remove it, you should carefully help it with a pry bar or a sludge screwdriver.
To disassemble the generator, you need to sweat, in the absence of specials. keys (and I'm sure that most of the people do not have those, so we will exclude their use) here we need additional devices, we prepare right away:
1. Drill with a drill for metal F4-5
2. Phillips screwdriver
3. Gas key
4. Bit - asterisk # 8
5. Head 24
6. Bearing puller.
These are basic, additional ones are used. screwdrivers and so on.
he coped with the big bearing without any problems, so it was decided - Take.
What is the peculiarity - very thin legs, which slip under the bearing without any problems, and the distance for maneuver is not more than 4 mm - which undoubtedly complicates the use of non-specialized pullers.
The second bearing can also be removed without any problems.
Further worse, slip rings, since they are pretty worn out, it was decided to replace them.
Disconnect the 2 wires in the coolant from the current collector terminals.
Then (at first) I used a screwdriver to pry it off, but with a screwdriver I only crumbled the body of the current collector, and returned all to the same bearing puller.
I picked up the sides to be shorter to fix the puller legs, and hooked it to the lower slip ring.
It was scary that the puller would simply break the copper ring, but the puller worked clearly and completed the task without problems (do not be afraid of clicks - it seems that everything is cracking, but this is the sound of plastic sliding over the metal).
And here is the dismantled current collector.
Well, everything is sorted out. This stage has been completed.
Stage 3 - ordering and spare parts.
Why this stage is here - and not earlier - only because it is not known which parts are out of order and which are not.
Summarize
1. Slip ring
2. Front bolster
3. Rear bearing
4. Brush holder
Torque —— 63032RS —— Generator bearing —— 88.25r.
Koyo —— 6203 2RS —— Generator bearing —— 215.11r.
Huco —— 13 0552 —— Generator regulator —— 582.06 rubles.
Ika —— 1 2039 0 —— Generator contact ring —— 93.12r.
The total cost of 978 rubles is 54 kopecks. (price varies depending on the manufacturer of the parts)
Step 4 Reassemble in reverse order.
All the necessary parts have come.
In addition, screws have been added to the list - 4x20 countersunk. Since we drilled them when disassembling the generator. And also the belt tensioner roller, as the native also hummed.
The slip ring is put on by light tapping with a hammer through a wooden block, wires are soldered to it.
The small bearing is clogged with a suitable mandrel.
The large (front) bearing is first pressed into the body, and then, together with the body, is put on the anchor, tightening the pulley nut, it is pulled tightly (do not forget the distance washer, which was there)
then a simple assembly of the case and voila - you're done!
The last stage remains - installation in place.
Excessive noise when the generator is running or undercharging the battery may indicate that the car's generator may soon fail altogether. Therefore, remove and check generator will not be superfluous.
To remove and repair the Bosch Volkswagen Passat B3 generator, you can use the tips by watching this video clip. In this case, one of the owners of VW Passat B3 on the Bosch generator has worn out bearings and in order to make repairs, you need to remove the generator belt, the generator itself and disassemble it. By performing a similar procedure, you can make sure that the so-called generator tablet is working, as well as check the belt wear (at the same time, it is possible to change it).
How to remove the Passat B3 generator, change the belt, bearings and the Bosch generator tablet for the Volkswagen Passat B3 do it yourself, see the video clearly.
We show how to repair a Bosch generator with our own hands, replacing faulty bearings in it, this unit was installed on a VW Passat B3 car and on many other cars, with the exception of some parts, the repair of other generators will be similar.The video can be considered a universal instruction, you will learn how to remove, disassemble, assemble and repair a faulty generator.
In winter, when the temperature was -15 degrees, the bearings began to whistle. When the shaft was shaken, we found a backlash, which indicated to us that it was necessary to repair the generator with the replacement of bearings.
Important events to rewind:
From 21 seconds, we watch how the Bosch generator is removed in the VW Passat B3.
1 minute 32 seconds shows how the Bosch generator is disassembled for repair.
9 minutes 42 seconds correct assembly of the generator.
Video replacement of bearings and repair of the Bosch VW Passat B3 generator:
Backup video instruction:
In short, this bearing has been whistling for a month! Got it out!
So I got to him)
I ordered a bearing Koyo 6201CM.
came in 2 days.
You will need a bearing puller,
First, unscrew the voltage regulator bolts (red arrows) and remove the regulator.
Unscrew the four bolts of the generator (green arrows)
We install a new bearing by pressing it onto the shaft and lubricate the bearing.
time spent 1.5 hours leisurely.
The result 100% met expectations!
In short, this bearing has been whistling for a month! Got it out!
So I got to him)
Good afternoon, there is a question! 1.8 RP I will not say that it whistles (BUT BUZZES CAPITALLY) I did not find the generator article without removing it, according to the photos from the drive2 - it looks like it? but I also have an impeller, I only considered the number of the voltage regulator 0 290 800 036, it is possible to break through it what kind of generator? and then according to their existential there is x. va-cloud. for some, a 1H bearing is included in the repair kit with neither number nor size, and in others, as many as 3 pieces. mk xs which buzzes, everything needs to be changed, but to disassemble the car somewhere in the city and throw it for a day to rush with the generator around the city there is no way, where to deal with all this there is a place, but only then the city is far away, so it is better to buy bearings in advance , can you tell me what to do better?
Still, filling in personal information in the profile sometimes helps =)
Still, filling in personal information in the profile sometimes helps =)
By the way, it’s not me LOCH, I don’t see the article, it was he who was erased by the campaign. only a silver sticker remained. but the testimonial is similar to Bosch 026 903 015B 90A although I'm not sure. people easily disassemble these generators. and I also learned from my father that when he tried to promote it 5 years ago, he didn't even succeed. and I came across an article where there is a VERY "bad genich"
There are no stickers / numbers on the generator itself, only I found a number on the cover (which is on the side of the pulley), but it does not break through in any way.
Judging by the Bosch catalog, this is a generator 0 986 033 160. It differs in a specific cover with three holes for external fastening.
The screws are definitely not broken off, their caps are slightly visible, the cover is also visible.
I would have thought that someone so stupidly sorted out the generator, but in etka, in the picture, the bolts are shown exactly from the inner side! (lid No. 12 is attached)
Apparently, during assembly, the bearing was first fastened in the housing, and then the shaft was pressed into it. But how can this node be disassembled now? If you try to knock out the rotor, then at least the cap of the khan, and maybe the silumin body, will burst .. = (
PS: There is, of course, an idea how to disassemble this perversion, but some sane method must be provided by the constructors! (I think to carefully drill out the screws securing the bearing cap, then knock the bearing + rotor out of the genes cap, and then remove the bearing from the shaft.)
And here's the question: if where is the thread else the article, except on the sticker 20 years ago?
MustangGT , Hey! Who called you a sucker here? There won't be such people. All normal guys.
I read your first message and realized that you could not identify the generator because of this you do not know which repair kit to order.
If I'm not mistaken, the information was only on the stickers.
You have a fairly common RP engine /
I had an RP on it there was a generator with an impeller (well, that is, without a plastic case). 90A
I think that in order not to be mistaken, you still need to remove the generator and go to the masters if there are any.
Try to pick from the pictures, there are numbers and so on (well, I don’t know what else to offer)
rator passat b3
Again RP is a very common engine. I think you won't have any problems.
and the guys and girls here are wonderful. very interesting, convenient, and UNDERSTANDING forum! Thanks!
Thanks for the forest review. Probably these are the moments that inspire.
We are always glad to see you!
If you have problems with the forum, you can safely press the Complaint button (it is in every message)
but xs. like all jpg shki that are filled in with the radical.
did not attach anything else. there is no compiler. what HZ swears at.
Video (click to play). |
in short, figured it out. copied links from past posts. and they do not end in jpg.
Post has been editedMustangGT: 17 September 2012 - 19:08