In detail: do-it-yourself generator repair on a Ford from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
We disassemble the Ford Focus 2 generator to check and replace the voltage regulator with a brush holder and a rectifier unit.
Using the "7" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the generator casing.
With a knife we clean the sealant from the inside of the casing ...
… And remove the generator casing.
We clean the nut that secures the generator output from the sealant.
Turn off the nut with the "10" head ...
... and remove the generator output.
Using the "8" head, unscrew the nut for fastening the brush holder with a voltage regulator.
Remove the washer under the nut.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws securing the brush holder with a voltage regulator.
Remove the brush holder with voltage regulator assembly.
Remove the protective film from the brush holder.
Use a screwdriver to unclench the three outputs of the rectifier unit.
Using the "8" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the rectifier unit.
We remove the rectifier unit.
To check the rotor winding short circuit to ground ...
… We connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the slip ring and the rotor shaft.
The tester should show infinity, otherwise the winding is shorted to ground and you need to replace the rotor or generator. To check if the rotor winding is broken ...
… We connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the slip rings.
If the tester shows infinity, then there is an open circuit in the winding and you need to replace the rotor or generator. We inspect the stator windings. There should be no traces of overheating on the insulation of the windings, which is the result of a short circuit in the valves of the rectifier unit. If the windings show signs of overheating, the stator or generator must be replaced. To check for a break in the stator windings ...
Video (click to play).
… We connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the winding terminals.
If the tester shows infinity, then there is an open circuit in the winding and you need to replace the stator or generator. Similarly, we check the rest of the stator windings. To check the short circuit of the stator winding to ground ...
… We connect the tester probes (in ohmmeter mode) to the winding terminal and the generator case.
The tester should show infinity, otherwise the winding is shorted to ground and the stator or generator must be replaced. Similarly, we check the rest of the windings. To check the short circuit in the positive diodes of the rectifier unit ...
... the "plus" of the tester (in ohmmeter mode) is connected to the output of the generator, and the "minus" - to one of the outputs of the rectifier unit.
The tester should show infinity. If the tester indicates a circuit is present, one or more positive diodes are punctured. To check the short circuit in the negative diodes, we connect the "plus" of the tester to one of the terminals of the rectifier unit, and the “minus” - to the bottom plate of the rectifier unit. The tester should show infinity. If the tester indicates a circuit is present, one or more negative diodes are punctured. In both cases, the rectifier unit must be replaced. To test the voltage regulator ...
... we connect a lamp (1-3 W, 12 V) to the brushes, and a DC power supply to the brush holder terminals, first with a voltage of 12 V, and then 15-16 V.
In the first case, the lamp should be on, in the second - not. If the lamp is on in both cases - there is a breakdown in the regulator, if it is not lit - there is an open or broken contact between the brushes and the terminals of the voltage regulator. In both cases, the regulator must be replaced. We assemble the generator in the reverse order. At the same time, crimping the terminals of the rectifier unit at the terminals of the stator winding ...
... we solder the places of their connection.
Before installing the brush holder, put the protective film of the brushes on the back cover of the generator. Having sunk the brushes, we install the brush holder in place ...
The original source of content - WiKi of the site of the magazine "Za Rulem"
04.02.2017 733
Alternator malfunctions are as unpleasant as any other car malfunctions. However, unlike a banal wheel change or some kind of silent block, problems with the “gene” are fraught with big waste and unexpected engine failure. In case of problems with the generator, you will automatically have another problem associated with the battery, it will simply stop receiving charge or will not receive it in full.
As a result, after the battery is completely discharged, your car will become stationary, and what is most annoying, this can happen at the most inopportune moment, for example, at night somewhere outside the city.
Wear of brushes;
Pulley worn or damaged;
Short circuit in the stator winding;
Damage to the voltage regulator;
Backlash or destruction of the bearing;
Break in the charging circuit wiring;
Damage to the rectifier (diode bridge).
Today at Ford Master I will tell you how to perform generator repair Ford Mondeo 3 at home, this will save you the cost of buying a new generator.
Puller;
Screwdrivers;
Hacksaw blade;
A set of keys;
Soldering iron;
Spare parts: pulley, diode bridge, new brushes, bearing.
The first step is to remove the generator.
Next, you should clean the generator from dirt and dust. After you need to unscrew the pulley, if you do not have the necessary tool in order to unscrew the pulley, you can get out of the situation by contacting the nearest service station.
Next, we proceed to unscrewing the studs, we use the key to “8” for this.
The next step was to dismantle the diode bridge, a difficulty arose here, since spot welding was used in the manufacture of the generator, and it had to be cut down. You can saw with a Dremel, a file or a grinder, in this case a hacksaw blade was used. Also, in order to remove the diode bridge, you need to drill two rivets from the back cover.
We dismantle the collector using a chisel, put it under spot welding, then carefully slightly separate the wire from the slip ring.
Carefully align the wires and remove them using a slotted screwdriver.
We remove the slip rings in turn.
Then we remove the rear bearing, in my case it went pretty tight.
Using a puller, press out the front bearing.
We prepare bearings. We put the required amount of lubricant and proceed to assembly. We install the front bearing on the armature shaft. By the way, it is installed quite simply, practically by hand, after everything is assembled it will be clamped with a clutch.
Attention! After the collector rings have been pressed in and the armature wires have been soldered, I recommend walking with a cutter on a lathe for centering.
Using a soldering iron, we solder the diode bridge to the stator winding, before that we carefully tin all the soldering points.
Subsequent assembly is carried out in reverse order.
The article will focus on replacing a generator on a Ford Focus 2 car with engines of 1.6, 1.8, 2.0 liters, signs of a device malfunction, checking its performance and replacing the brush assembly.
On Ford Focus 2 cars, the on-board network is powered with the engine running and the battery is recharged from a three-phase alternator, which is installed on all modifications of this car.
The conversion of alternating current into direct current is carried out by a rectifier unit, which is part of the generator's design, and the voltage stabilization and maintenance at the required level is performed by an electronic voltage stabilizer.
In addition, the ECU of the power plant affects the operation of the unit. This allows the generator to function properly under different conditions.
It is driven by the crankshaft of the power plant through a belt drive, which is also used to drive other attachments (air conditioning). The unit is cooled by an impeller mounted on the rotor.
The generator on Ford Focus 2 is considered maintenance-free due to the use of closed-type bearings on the rotor, the resource of which is designed for the entire period of operation of the car.
In reality, the device is not very reliable and breaks down quite often.
Symptoms of a malfunction are:
Increased noise from under the hood (squeal, squeak);
Lack of battery recharge;
Lack of electricity when using electrical equipment in a car (the headlights shine weakly, and when they are turned on, the warning lamps on the dashboard dim).
At the same time, despite the fact that the generator is connected to a self-diagnosis system, a malfunction signal is not always displayed on the on-board computer. In this case, the breakdown can be detected empirically.
Before removing the generator from the Ford Focus 2 for replacement or repair, you should first make sure it is faulty. The verification technology is very simple and fast.
Before diagnosing the functionality, it is necessary to loosen the positive terminal on the battery.
we start the engine;
wait until the turnover stabilizes;
turn on the headlights;
on the running engine, remove the positive terminal from the battery.
If the generator is in good working order, the power plant should not stop, on the contrary, its speed should increase slightly, since the ECU will correct the operation of the motor in order to provide the on-board network with energy.
Stopping the unit after removing the terminal will indicate a malfunction of the generator and the need to repair or replace it. And for this, the unit must be removed from the car, which turns out to be not so easy.
You can use the official instructions, which are presented below, but it does not reflect all the subtleties and nuances of the work, and therefore it is more suitable for acquaintance than as a detailed guide that is understandable to everyone.
The Ford Focus 2 uses several modifications of power plants with different design features that affect the algorithm of work during removal.
On engines with a volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters, the generator is located in the upper part, which somewhat simplifies dismantling.
As an example, consider the technology for removing a node from a Ford Focus 2 equipped with a 1.6-liter unit.
To complete the work you will need:
Keys for 8, 10, 12 and 13 (better - heads of the indicated sizes with extensions and a wrench equipped with a ratchet mechanism);
Flat screwdriver;
Bit Torx E10.
These tools will be enough to get the job done. Dismantling is carried out on a cold engine.
Inspect the device for external damage. Smell, if it smells burnt, then most likely the wiring is burnt out.
Installation of a repaired or new unit is performed in the following sequence:
First, the stud and nut are screwed in (Torx head 10, head 15);
We put on the plastic bracket that holds the power steering reservoir;
Insert and tighten the lower bolt under the pulley;
We bait and tighten the upper bolt (to the left of the hairpin);
Install the belt;
We connect the connector and the generator wire. In the latter case, we use a nut for 10;
We put the coolant reservoir in its regular place;
We put a pipe clamp;
We install the power steering barrels;
We connect the power wire;
Do not forget to install all the hoses in their places;
We start the car and check the generator.
You need to choose a new generator by the VIN code of the car. The original products are manufactured by the Italian company DENSO.
The sticker must indicate that this is FORD, the amperage and original engineering code - 115 IM.
Difficulty installing the generator can cause the drive belt to land in place, since there is no tension roller on the 1.6-liter Ford Focus engine.Therefore, the installation of the drive is carried out using special tools that come with the original belt.
On Ford Focus 2 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines, the location of the generator differs from the 1.6-liter engine, and when dismantling, you cannot do without a viewing hole or overpass.
To carry out work from the tools, you will need all the same keys and heads for 8, 10, 12 and 13, as well as a screwdriver and an open-end wrench for 19.
Let us consider the algorithm of work on removal using the example of a 1.8-liter unit. Some of the work is done on top of the engine, and some on the bottom.
We install the car on the pit;
Remove the plastic protection from the engine;
Remove the terminal from the battery;
With a key 17 (19), we shift the tension roller towards the cab and remove the drive belt;
Using a 10 key, unscrew 3 roller fasteners, 1 - at the top (short, so mark it) and 1 - at the bottom under the engine, remove them. Pay attention, there are 2 bolts at the bottom, but so far only one is unscrewed;
We unscrew the bracket fastening bolt, which is used to attach the air conditioning pipe to the body, which goes to the air conditioner radiator. This is necessary so that you can then bend the tube and get the generator;
Turn off the chip using a flat screwdriver;
Unscrew the second lower mounting bolt;
After the knot drops down a little, we turn it, which will allow us to get to the wiring block and the nut for fixing the power cable. We disconnect the block and the power wire with a 13 head;
Taking the air conditioner branch pipe to the side, we take out the generator.
Installation of the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. Do not mix up the bolts.
Similarly, assembly and disassembly is carried out on a 2.0-liter unit.
On engines with a volume of 1.8 and 2.0 liters, the operation is convenient in that special equipment is not required to land the drive belt due to the presence of a tension roller.
