DIY repair of a vaz 21124 generator

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 21124 generator from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

As you know, the generator on the car is designed to perform the most important functions. In the VAZ 2112, replacing a generator is a common and common process that you can handle with your own hands.
Replacing the VAZ 2112 generator is an interesting and exciting tour of the car system that can give a beginner a valuable baggage of knowledge.

As you know, a generator is a device in a car that provides electricity to various elements, converting mechanical energy into current. This is a kind of power supply that often replaces a stable central power supply.
In other words, the car generator charges the battery while the engine is running.

The generator is located on the VAZ 2112, as a rule, in the front of the engine.
Driven by a crankshaft.

As a rule, there are two types of generator, two of its types. Traditional generator and compact.
These types differ from each other in fan layout, housing design, pulley, and more.
But the general details are the same:

rotor;
stator;
brush assembly;
voltage regulator;
rectifier unit.

Note. All of the above elements are housed in a closed case.

Let's consider separately each element of the generator.

This part is designed to create a rotating magnetic field:

On the rotor shaft there is an excitation winding, which is specially placed in two pole halves.

Note. Each of these pole halves has 6 projections.

There are two slip rings on the rotor shaft through which the excitation winding is powered.

Video (click to play).

Note. As a rule, these rings are made of copper, and sometimes of steel or brass.

This element serves to create alternating electric current:

The stator combines a winding and a metal core, which consists of steel plates.

Note. There are 36 slots in the core, where three windings fit. Together they form a three-phase connection. Frame

The generator housing is an element that consists of two covers. The front cover is located on the side of the generator drive pulley, and the rear cover is located on the side of the slip rings.

Thanks to this unit, the current is supplied to the slip rings. Two carbon brushes, springs and a brush holder - that's all that the brush assembly consists of.

This element converts a sinusoidal voltage into a DC voltage. The rectifier unit consists of heat sink plates and diodes.

Designed to maintain the voltage in the generator.
To date, several designs of these very elements are known:

hybrid voltage regulators;
integrated voltage regulators.

Replacing the generator VAZ 21124

As it becomes clear, there can be no question of any normal operation of the vehicle if the generator is faulty. This part must undergo technical inspection every 15 thousand kilometers.
If remarks are revealed at the diagnostic stage, then they should be urgently eliminated.

Replace the VAZ 2112 generator

It will not be difficult to remove the generator on your own.
Let's consider the algorithm of actions:

First of all, you should disconnect the negative wire from the battery.
We take keys for 10 and 13.
We find the wire that goes to the generator and disconnect it.
We also unscrew the nut securing the wire to the positive terminal.
We remove the output wire.
Now you need to remove the generator tension bar.

Vaz 2112 how to remove the generator

We find the bottom mount of the generator and unscrew the nut that fixes the part on this side.
We dismantle the fastening bolt.
We remove the generator from the VAZ 2112.
We carry out a replacement.

Note. After the generator is removed, it is usually disassembled to determine the cause of the breakdown.

Vaz 2112 removing the generator

The 3 spring clips are released.
The protective casing of the diode bridge of the generator is removed.
Now you need to unscrew the screws securing the voltage regulator (a curly screwdriver is best for this).
We also disconnect the block with the wire from the output of the relay-regulator.
We take it off.

Now you need to remove the rectifier unit or, as it is also called, the diode bridge. We arm ourselves with an 8 spanner wrench, a curly screwdriver and a 10 wrench.
We unscrew the three bolts connecting the leads of the stator windings with the diode bridge.
We bend the wires of the conclusions of the stator winding to the side.
We unscrew the screw securing the capacitor using a curly screwdriver.
We remove the rectifier unit and the capacitor (see Changing the capacitor (VAZ generator)).
Now we unscrew the two nuts of the contact bolt, for this using a 10 key.
We remove the bushings.
We dismantle the main bolt of the rectifier unit.

Usually at this stage it is possible to find the cause of the breakdown. If not, then the analysis continues further, up to the removal of the bearings.
The instructions presented above give a practical understanding of how to replace the generator with your own hands. In the process, it is recommended to study photo and video materials as visual aids.
The price of such repairs will naturally not be high, because all the work is done independently.

Welcome!
A generator is an electrical appliance that supplies current to the car's on-board network and charges the battery when the engine is running, if it fails, then the first problem that starts with the car is the battery charge lamp (we'll talk about this lamp a little later) and on the car in the direct sense after that you can't drive, the whole point is that the ignition system of any car that runs on gasoline consumes electricity and conducts it (high-voltage wires, spark plugs and other units are connected), thereby the engine is running, and if suddenly the battery runs out and current will no longer be supplied to the on-board network, then the car will simply stall and will no longer start until the battery is charged again.

Note!
To carry out the generator repair procedure, you will need to stock up on: Necessarily a multi-meter and, if possible, a control lamp, as well as a screwdriver, various kinds of keys (spanners, caps, and so on), in addition, you will also need a marker and a fine-grained skin!

Summary:

Note!
As you already understood, the best way to check is with the help of a multi-meter, which has a voltmeter function (and everyone has one), so if you still decide to check it, then remember the current that should be on the battery when the engine is running equals about 13-14.5 volts, if it is less then either the battery is completely discharged, or the generator has become unusable, in this case, try to accelerate, for this, briefly press the gas pedal and remove your foot from it, if the current supply has increased, then the battery is discharged , if nothing happened, then try to do this again and remember, if the current is less than 12 volts, which is no longer acceptable, then after a very short time the battery will be completely discharged and you will no longer be able to start the car (To start the car, you need at least 11.5 volts , if the battery produces less, then starting the engine will already be problematic)!

Read also: DIY old table repair

A car generator is an important mechanism, without which you will not go far if it breaks down. As a rule, if it stopped recharging the car battery or malfunctions, then you should first check the tension of the alternator drive belt. If the belt is in order, then you need to start removing, disassembling and repairing the generator, because buying a new one will be much more expensive than replacing some worn out parts (they are very cheap). In fact, the procedure is not complicated, but a little painstaking, the main thing is to put everything together correctly.We repaired the generator on a VAZ 2110 car (for 2111, 2112 a similar procedure), if you have a model 2106, then see the diagram of the VAZ 2106 generator. There are some differences.2. Make a longitudinal mark on the generator body with a marker, it will be useful later during assembly.3. Use the handles to squeeze the three latches on the top cover.5. Remove the 2 screws holding the voltage regulator.6. Disconnect the wire from the regulator terminal.7. Now carefully remove it with the brush holder.8. Unscrew the screw that secures the capacitor and 4 more that secure the unit itself.9. Further, in order to remove the rectifier unit, it is necessary to take out 3 wires with a terminal.10. Now take out the rectifier unit with the capacitor.11. Now from the rectifier unit, unscrew the nut from the contact bolt, remove the washer with the spacer fork and replace the capacitor. Remove the cap of the capacitor wire from the contact bolt.13. Next, from the side of the slip rings, using a screwdriver, pry off the cover of the car generator.14. Press in a vise (so as not to spin) the generator rotor and unscrew the nut that holds the pulley, and then remove the spring washer and the pulley itself.16. On the drive side, remove the rotor from the cover.17. Now remove the spacer ring from the rotor shaft.18. Check the slip rings, if they have pronounced defects (scratches, galls), then they need to be sanded with fine emery paper. If it is impossible to grind them with sandpaper, then this can be done on a lathe (only you need to remove as small a layer of metal as possible), and then sand again with a fine sandpaper.19. Next, you need to check the resistance of the rotor winding using an ohmmeter (tester). To do this, you need to connect it to the slip rings. If the tester gives "infinity", it will mean that there is a break in one of the windings, this can only be corrected by a complete replacement of the rotor.20. Then we check with a test lamp if there is a short circuit in the winding on the rotor housing.This is done as follows: turn on an ordinary incandescent lamp in the 220 V network and lean one wire against the generator body, and the second one, first on the first ring, and then on the second. In any case, the lamp should not light up. If, nevertheless, ignition occurs in any of the positions, then the entire rotor should also be replaced with a new one. By the way, in this case, you can use a small 12 V lamp and a car battery, it is easier and safer.21. Further, if all is well with the rotor, proceed to inspect the stator. On its inner side, there should not be any traces of the armature rubbing against the stator. If these symptoms are observed, then only the bearings should be replaced or the entire generator cover assembly with bearings should be replaced.22. Further, as with the rotor, we check if there is an open circuit in the stator winding. We connect the test lamp to alternating current and alternately lean the test lamp between all the terminals of the winding. Only in this case, the lamp should be on, if at least at one of the moments it did not light up, - replace the stator with a new one or only the winding.23. Now check the short circuit of the stator windings to the housing. If you connect a test lamp to the terminal of the stator winding, and the wire from the power source to the stator housing, then ignition should not occur. If the lamp lights up, then again there is only one way out - to replace only the winding or the entire stator.24. Inspect the drive end cover of the generator assembly with bearing. If during the rotation of the bearing you feel a play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of grease leakage, and cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover assembly with the bearing (the bearing is rolled in the cover) ...25. On the side of the slip rings, it is necessary to check the free rotation of the bearing. If, during the rotation of the bearing, play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements is felt, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of grease leakage, then the bearing must be replaced with a new one. To do this, press the bearing off the rotor shaft using a puller and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the bearing inner ring.26. Check the cover of the car alternator from the side of the slip rings. If it has serious defects, then replace it with a new one.27. Now the most difficult and decisive moment of all your actions is to put everything back together in the order of disassembling the generator. Only at the end, close the lid correctly (according to the marks set earlier). Place the spring washer of the generator pulley with the convex side to the nut, and tighten the latter to a torque of 39–62 N • m (3.9–6.2 kgf • m).So the repair of the car generator is over, good luck and no more breakdown!Some motorists came across the concept when the voltage in the on-board network drops or a hum appears in the area of the VAZ-2112 generator. This is due to the fact that the bearing of this part is out of order. Not all motorists will be able to change it with their own hands, so this article will focus on the replacement process.Video about the generator bulkhead and its repair on cars of the VAZ 2110-2112 family:

The need to repair the generating unit can arise for various reasons. As practice shows, the most common of them are broken brushes or bearings. Read about the repair of these components below.

Replacing the brushes of the VAZ generator is as follows:

First of all, you need to squeeze out the three latches on the device body, on its sides. These latches secure the cover to the mechanism.
The cover itself can be detached and tucked away. This will allow you to access the regulator.
There are two bolts on the regulator that fix the device - they must be unscrewed. Then pull on the regulator and remove it.
Assess the condition of the brushes - if they are working, then the length of these elements should be at least 0.5 cm.In the event that their size is smaller, then you have two options - either to repair it by replacing the brushes, or to change the assembly. If repairs are being made, you will need a soldering iron as the brush assembly is soldered to the relay. To begin with, you need to unsolder the wires connected to the brushes, and then dismantle the assembly, replacing it with a new one and soldering it securely to the relay contacts. Or you just change the relay, and then assemble the device in the reverse order (the author of the video is the IZO channel))) LENTA).