When choosing a hydraulic lift for a boat motor, it should be borne in mind that it can be of two types:
The first variety is the most common among racers.Their favor is simply explained: mechanized devices that make it possible to make changes in the adjustment of the linkage of the power unit are simply forbidden to be installed on racing boats (not on all, but on the vast majority of them). Hand-held units are bolted-mounted. Thanks to them, it will not budge even in the most extreme conditions. Immobility is the main difference between manual devices and hydraulic ones. The latter are known to be mobile during the movement of the vessel. Some people think this is a disadvantage. But for the sake of fairness, it is worth noting that the attachment of the device to the hull of the boat is carried out with the participation of all kinds:
However, manual execution also has some disadvantages. In particular, it cannot be used after entering the glide. It is the same with the frequent change of height in the process of changing the speed of movement. Setting the height of the power unit in the case of manual execution is possible only in a quiet position and only on land. Therefore, if it is chosen incorrectly, nothing can be changed on the water. That is, planing cannot be improved in real time.
But the hydraulic one will help to raise the motor 150-200 mm up without any problems, keeping its angle of inclination unchanged. This will reduce the resistance provided by the water and get into the shallowest area of the reservoir.
VIDEO
Vessels with a large weight or an insufficiently powerful engine need strong thrust in order to get on planing. Electro-hydraulic lifters make it possible to reduce ventilation and propeller slippage by lowering the engine deeper. Once the desired speed is reached, the motor can be raised to improve handling and reduce friction.
I would like to say that the hydroelectric complex has no drawbacks. However, one is still available. We are talking about the cost, not only of the device itself, but also of its repair and maintenance. As a matter of fact, for the possibility of promptly changing the height of the power unit, you will have to pay about seven hundred dollars. Manual ones cost two hundred cheaper. And these are top options!
How to choose a hydraulic lift for a Yamaha outboard motor? Since we have already found out that hydraulic models are more interesting from a technical point of view, it is better to prefer one of them. For example, Power-Lift.
The new CMC PL-65 will cost you about $ 950. For this money, you get a reliable device that allows you to dynamically adjust the position of the power unit while driving. The delivery set includes, in addition to the device, a fuse, a pair of relays, power cables, mounting bolts, a 3-position toggle switch, and a user manual. Please note: the latter may be in a foreign language (English).
The Honda 50 engine with hydraulic lift and trim device was purchased in the fall of 2008. Today, when starting from the place of the boat, there was a metal grinding, after which the engine stopped keeping the set angle on the move. If you press the raise button, the motor rises, but on the move it immediately drops to the lowest position, and when parked slowly drops to the lowest position.
A friend had a similar problem on Ya60FETOL. It turned out to be a bypass valve. I do not know where he is on the Honda, but it should be. On I, it hides behind a cork in the form of a large screw. More precisely, there are two of them on I, probably one up, the other down. Also, you can check the valve (or rather the seal on it), which opens the bypass so that in case of failure of the hydraulic lift motor, you can manually lower the motor. Again, if we talk about I, then it is on the side of the clamp, and on the clamp in this place there is a pictogram with an engine and arrows back and forth.The valve has a slot for a screwdriver; it is unscrewed after removing the inner circlip. And it would also be nice to pump the hydraulic lifting system, but one must bear in mind that it simply does not air up at once, which means that somewhere there is a leak and air leakage. Another point - if the motor immediately starts to rise when the button is pressed, then this is hardly airing, because in this case, at first, the motor would thresh diligently creating the necessary pressure, and only then the motor would begin to rise.
Thanks for participating!
The fluid is not compressed. Look for valve leaks, leaks and tightness.
I have not encountered a motor breakdown before. This motor was not purchased from an authorized dealer. I live in Penza, there is only Yamaha. The nearest Honda dealer in Saratov. Where do you think to repair. Take to Saratov.
what the hell is the difference honda-yamaha, trim is the same everywhere. the valve is poisoning you, there is nothing else, either unscrew and twist as normal, or add some oil and pump it all over. further according to the circumstances.
There was such a situation with Yamaha .. There, in the hydraulic cylinder there are two valves and two spring-loaded balls with a diameter of 2-3 mm, and in one of them the seat was somehow pushed through there and the pressure was lost. Unambiguously disassemble, but not confused, they are different, I'm talking about the valves, to see the seats they are there - a luminaire, I was treated by light tapping on the ball to restore the geometry of the seat. Then you fill in ATF-ku and pump it over, but look it can foam. Leveling is on the forum, search rules.
I have a very similar situation on the Ya70. At full speed, the motor slowly lowers until it hits the crutch. In the parking lot, it does NOT fall at all. The bypass valve is working - when it is twisted, then you lower the horseradish with your hands. ATP fluid is normal and the system is pumped. I came to the conclusion that it does not hold some kind of valve inside.
If the motor immediately starts to rise / fall, then most likely it is not about airing the system, especially if it did not find any smudges. Find the screw (valve) that allows you to go into manual mode, so to speak. He, as I said, is most likely on the side of the clamp. More precisely, in the clamp (at least on the Pit) there is a hole through which this screw must be turned. There should be a picture cast on the hole - a motor with up / down arrows. Unscrew (after removing the retaining ring) this screw, check the seals on it. Clean the landing gear - suddenly some kind of dirt got in and broke the seal. Although, for the very beginning, twist the screw back and forth, suddenly it just spontaneously unscrewed and opened the bypass channel.
I have exactly the opposite. The motor does not rise on the move. Drops on the move and rises on a weak run and by hand without problems. It manifested itself after self-disassembly. I also think where the reason is.
Yes, there is nothing wrong there, not to confuse the bypass valves, follow the right side when installing them, they have a direction not to lose anything when disassembling and assembling the bypass mechanism block, it is like a sandwich assembled in the middle block is NSH (gear pump), so it pumps fluid from one chamber to another, and properly pump the trim.
Yesterday I talked with one specialist. He asked me in detail how I translate the motor on a boat. His opinion is that the liquid has "been lost" and most likely only the pumping of the system is needed.
Utopia. Do you press this support firmly with your foot in any case, or do you leave it spring-loaded?
Pressed, but not all the way. Kettle I.
Continuation of a story.
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Hydraulic lift trim work on a Yamaha outboard motor - bleeding, oil change and repair
Message kyzik » 11.12.2010 11:15
Message wittebank » 12.12.2010 01:03
Message kyzik » 12.12.2010 03:39
Message Savage » 12.12.2010 03:56
Message Valery » 12.12.2010 03:59
Message Savage » 12.12.2010 04:06
Message wittebank » 12.12.2010 08:56
Currently, a hydraulic lift for a boat motor is a structural unit that is present on almost every vessel equipped with a powerful power unit. If it is not included in the basic package, it is recommended to purchase and install it immediately after purchasing the boat.
As a rule, the designated node:
increases the value of the maximum speed indicator;
contributes to more economical fuel consumption;
reduces acceleration time;
improves handling.
When choosing a hydraulic lift for a boat motor, it should be borne in mind that it can be of two types:
The first variety is the most common among racers. Their favor is simply explained: mechanized devices that make it possible to make changes in the adjustment of the linkage of the power unit are simply forbidden to be installed on racing boats (not on all, but on the vast majority of them).
Hand-held units are bolted-mounted. Thanks to them, it will not budge even in the most extreme conditions.
Immobility is the main difference between manual devices and hydraulic ones. The latter are known to be mobile during the movement of the vessel. Some people think this is a disadvantage. But for the sake of fairness, it is worth noting that the attachment of the device to the hull of the boat is carried out with the participation of all kinds:
bushings;
bearings;
sliders and so on.
Thus, the likelihood that the lift will come off and disappear into the water column is practically reduced to zero.
However, manual execution also has some disadvantages. In particular, it cannot be used after entering the glide. It is the same with the frequent change of height in the process of changing the speed of movement. Setting the height of the power unit in the case of manual execution is possible only in a quiet position and only on land. Therefore, if it is chosen incorrectly, nothing can be changed on the water. That is, planing cannot be improved in real time.
Or here's another case.You are about to go fishing in shallow waters. In such conditions, a manual lift is useless.
But the hydraulic one will help to raise the motor 150-200 mm up without any problems, keeping its angle of inclination unchanged. This will reduce the resistance provided by the water and get into the shallowest area of the reservoir.
Vessels with a large weight or an insufficiently powerful engine need strong thrust in order to get on planing. Electro-hydraulic lifters make it possible to reduce ventilation and propeller slippage by lowering the engine deeper. Once the desired speed is reached, the motor can be raised to improve handling and reduce friction.
I would like to say that the hydroelectric complex has no drawbacks. However, one is still available. We are talking about the cost, not only of the device itself, but also of its repair and maintenance. As a matter of fact, for the possibility of promptly changing the height of the power unit, you will have to pay about seven hundred dollars. Manual ones cost two hundred cheaper. And these are top options!
How to choose a hydraulic lift for a Yamaha outboard motor? Since we have already found out that hydraulic models are more interesting from a technical point of view, it is better to prefer one of them. For example, Power-Lift.
The new CMC PL-65 will cost you about $ 950. For this money, you get a reliable device that allows you to dynamically adjust the position of the power unit while driving.
The delivery set includes, in addition to the device, a fuse, a pair of relays, power cables, mounting bolts, a 3-position toggle switch, and a user manual. Please note: the latter may be in a foreign language (English).
A burning question for shipowners that arises after analyzing the line of aggregates represented by engines with the same afterburner in a number of characteristics.
A simple operation that you can do yourself. It doesn't take too long and the end effect is amazing. By the way, the costs incurred will be minimal.
If it seems to you that the power of the power unit of your boat is not enough, then the moment when you need to look for a hydraulic wing for an outboard motor has already come.
Tags: Hydraulic lift, for, boat, motor, DIY, hands, video
VIDEO
... a lift from the American manufacturer CMC for the Odyssey 470 RIB boat and installation of a Suzuki outboard motor on it.
Homemade electric motor lift trimmer. Motor Tohatsu 18 4t.
Hydraulic lift Trim for outboard outboard motor of any brand up to 55 hp. .Made in USA by Bobsmachine, new.
Japanese contract motors will buy motor snowmobiles boat motors. outboard motor electric lift.
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Does the hydraulic lift motor have an emergency tilt?
I had 2 motors, Yamaha 15 and 30, the motors were fused and thrown up in case of a blow
Now I took a boat motor Tohatsu MD 50 EPTOS with hydraulic lift
but upon impacts it does not fold back like previous motors and, accordingly, the entire impact force falls on the gearbox and propeller
How can this be fixed?
After all, stones and snags can be caught everywhere at speed
Or how? Did anyone have an engine kicked back on impact? Hydropod does not suffer from this?
I don’t know about everyone, but yesterday it hit me so hard against a stone that the gearbox jolted seriously and 2 blades on the propellers bent, the speed was 4 km / h
nevertheless, this was not the case on engines with avar.kidkoy!
Or how? Did anyone have an engine kicked back on impact? Hydropod does not suffer from this?
The hydraulic lift works fine and even leans back on impact.
Twice it flew hard, though once with a serious repair of the gearbox. (90 sousa). I don't even count in trifles
This topic is perhaps one of the most relevant today, which is quite understandable. Long gone are the days when mainly domestic "Neptunes" and "Whirlwinds" roamed the water, and the appearance of spare parts laid out on the shore and repairs carried out, as they say, "on the knee" were perceived as the norm of life. Now a similar picture can be observed mainly in the outback. The situation has changed dramatically. The market offers the Russian consumer an almost full range of the latest water-motor equipment from abroad. The availability of engines from the world's leading manufacturers raises a number of questions, and our task is to understand them.
The first question and, perhaps, the main one, which, unfortunately, for most motor owners simply does not arise: how to choose the right propeller? This does not directly apply to engine repair, but it is extremely important to ensure the most favorable operating conditions for the engine as a whole and increase its resource. In other words, a correctly selected screw can reduce the likelihood of a malfunction, and therefore avoid the repair itself. The fact is that any outboard or stationary engine has a certain rpm range, in which it will develop maximum power and at the same time have optimal fuel consumption. Going beyond this range in one direction or another leads to a decrease in engine performance and an increase in fuel consumption.
There are a number of motors, the connection of tachometers to which is not structurally provided. In this case, when carrying out the test, it is necessary to use special tachometers that allow reading information from high-voltage spark plug wires. And to do this, you will have to again contact a service center equipped with a similar tool. And one more note: the standard propellers that come with the motor are usually matched exactly according to the results of such a test, but remember that your equipment (motor, propeller, boat, load) may become an exception to the rule.
Suppose that by selecting the propeller we have created the conditions for the engine for normal operation. But technique is technique, and breakdowns are still possible. True, there is a difference between breakage and breakdown. Therefore, let's try to figure out how to behave in a given situation. We will immediately exclude the option when the life and health of people depend on the performance of the motor - any interventions are permissible here. We will only consider the issues of current repairs.
It turns out that even a normally running motor requires periodic maintenance. Can you do it yourself? There is no definite answer, and here's why. If you are a technically competent person with experience in dealing with such equipment, and the motor is under warranty, it is advisable to obtain permission for scheduled maintenance from your nearest dealer. Most likely, such permission will be given, and then - down with self-confidence. Begin by carefully reading the instruction manual. In the list of routine maintenance, items are possible that are intended only for your specific motor. Lubricants and equipment used for servicing must be original.
After the expiration of the warranty period, the frequency and quality of maintenance remain on your conscience, although you will most likely not be able to completely avoid communicating with the service workers. In the list of routine maintenance specified in the operating instructions, there are those that require high qualifications, special tools and technical documentation.As for the various adjustments, the instruction limits the degree of intervention. You should be especially careful with carburetor settings. Excessively high idle speeds can lead to damage to gearbox parts due to the more severe shock mode when shifting gears. Incorrect adjustment of the mixture quality will lead to a deterioration in the engine operating conditions, which can entail quite serious consequences. I strongly advise against synchronizing the carburetors of four-stroke engines - without a special tool and a certain skill, the result will be negative. And one more tip: do not neglect the preservation of the engine (the procedure is described in detail in the instructions) and proper transportation, especially of four-stroke.
Repair associated with the replacement of any engine components or requiring serious diagnostics directly depends on the degree of technical training of the motor owner and equipment. The range of engines currently used on boats is diverse: they are simple carburetor engines, fuel injection systems for four-stroke and two-stroke engines, with OptiMax systems from Mercury and HPDI systems from Yamaha, and with various lubrication systems. All this requires constant professional retraining even from full-time mechanics. Of course, the owner of the motor is not faced with such a task, but he will not receive complete technical documentation for his motor anywhere. It is outlined in the "Service Manual" - a book used by mechanics. It does not go on sale. And if it will probably be possible to understand low-power carburetor motors, and flaws in the repair will not cause consequences, then a sane person himself will not approach a large motor, as "packed" as possible with electronics. And with all due respect to the craftsmen, I do not advise you to trust the engine to a master from a nearby garage. It is your motor that may be structurally different from those that it has successfully repaired before.
There is one more question, the answer to which must be found before proceeding with the repair: do you have a special tool? Having been engaged in the service of imported motors for far from the first year, I have seen enough and heard enough of everyone, but more often they say one thing: “Yes, I didn't have to do it myself. And how much will it cost now? " There is only one rule: if none of the tools you know are suitable for removing or unscrewing a part, stop - most likely a special tool is required for this procedure. I will say more, the tool that you think is suitable can affect the parts precisely in those places that cannot be loaded. In this case, you will not only break the part, but also significantly complicate the subsequent repair.
What I would like to draw the readers' attention to is the problem of spare parts. Where to get them, use "relatives" or find something suitable, does a worn part require replacement or will it still serve? In my practice, there was one motor on which an anti-corrosion anode, not original, but cheap, lasted longer than the engine, but at the same time had a very good presentation. Do not assume that all non-original spare parts are rubbish. There are also very worthy manufacturers. But, in my opinion, if there is an opportunity, it is better, instead of wasting energy, time, and therefore money on finding suitable ones, to contact technical specialists and be confident in the quality of the spare parts purchased. This, incidentally, also applies to oils. In addition, experts will advise which parts you need to purchase in a particular case, since quite often spare parts need to be changed in a bundle.
Replacing one part will not always correct the problem. A number of gaskets, lock washers, oil seals must be changed during repairs, even if they are outwardly in good condition.As for the clearances, permissible beats, torques and tightening sequence, then in this case it is better to get professional advice, at least by phone, e-mail or regular mail.
It is quite widely believed that it makes sense to purchase the simplest carburetor motors so that you can troubleshoot yourself. This is only partly true. Engines of small and medium power do not require complex technical solutions, but talking about the simplicity of high power motors, even if they are carburetor ones, is incorrect. In order to save gasoline and optimize the quality of the mixture, the fuel systems and ignition systems of such engines are quite complicated, which reduces their advantage over injection or the same OptiMax to a minimum. And given the best power and weight indicators of the latter and their efficiency, the question disappears by itself. Indeed, caution should be exercised when approaching fundamentally new and heavily compressed models. I will say more: complex motors, as a rule, have a protection system that notifies of faults that have occurred and changes the operating mode in such a way as not to damage the engine and at the same time operate it. A complicated-looking engine is often much easier to operate than a carburetor of the same power. Unfortunately, in this matter, many are still very conservative - the engine is frightening, the fear of the electronics with which the injection motors are equipped.
Considering all of the above, I highly recommend making repairs, adjustments and routine maintenance at a certified service center. It is certified. If, for financial reasons or due to the territorial remoteness of such a center, you are forced to carry out repairs yourself, then, again, it is still necessary to consult a specialist.
Within the framework of one or even several articles, it is impossible to outline all the subtleties of repairing an engine. But there are general trends in the maintenance of certain nodes. The table above lists the main points that must be taken into account when starting a repair.
D. Semenov, service manager, Mercury-NII TM, CJSC.
Video (click to play).
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