Do-it-yourself Citroen C5 hydraulic cylinder repair

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Novuhodonosor 31 Aug 2013

The boot on the rear left hydraulic cylinder has torn. I decided to change the seals at the same time, because the right cylinder slightly snotty.

I don’t have a hole, so I drove the rear onto the boards, put the blocks under the jacking points, the suspension down - voila, the rear wheels are in the air. Disconnected the terminals from the battery. I unscrewed the plug from the LDS tank, unscrewed the rear axle pressure relief fitting, the liquid does not flow - there is no pressure.

Ambush number one. The cotter pin, exactly on the cylinder where the boot urgently needs to be changed, has soured tightly. After reading the forum, I realized that it is easy to break it off, and then it is problematic to knock it out. I doused him with VDshkoy, meanwhile taking up another cylinder.

Here the situation is the opposite, the leaking LDS soaked both the cotter pin and the stem stop, removed them by hand. Disconnected the tubes, removed the clamp, removed the rod from the piston along with the boot. Now you need to remove the piston. The adjustable pliers helped, inserted the jaws into the piston, pushed it apart and slightly turning it began to pull the piston outward.

Important: the pressure relief fitting must be open so that air can enter inside, well, substitute the container under the cylinder - gr. 50 liquids. Further, looking inside the cylinder, I saw the following: closer to the edge there is a rubber O-ring, then a groove, then a double seal - a rectangular rubber ring with a plastic ring inside. I took out all this with the help of a thin wire and laid it out on the table for study.

Ambush number two. The new seals are really smaller in diameter! That is, you can put the distant cuff, then having contrived to place a plastic sliding seal in it, but the piston does not climb there!

Well, let’s push it with a mounting, after having lubricated everything, within our powers, but who can guarantee that this damn plastic ring will not slide inside the cylinder? Hence the conclusion - it is necessary to use some kind of mandrel, according to the diameter of the piston, but for this it is necessary to collapse the sphere.

Two hours of heroic efforts were crowned unsuccessfully, the chain wrench, which, by the way, unscrewed the front spheres without problems, was killed in the trash, and the sphere was not even a millimeter. I did not use a chisel to destroy the sphere, because its replacement at this stage is not provided. In general, you cannot get close to the cylinder from the other end. I had to stretch new cuffs - a barbaric occupation. For your information, the plastic ring stretches very easily, and it is extremely reluctant to restore the reverse size, it is important not to overdo it, but the rubber rings had to be pulled from the heart. But how will the seal behave after such executions? I think in the future how I am going to change the spheres, I will change these cuffs again, since they are inexpensive, controlling the process from the other side.

Okay, the cuffs are installed, they are lubricated, we begin to insert the piston, it goes tight, the piston pushed the assembly firmly into the cylinder. Then we collect everything in the reverse order, lubricating the tip of the rod, which is inserted into the lever, with graphite grease. First we put the boot on the rod, then the rod into the cylinder and the tip into the lever. Cotter pin, pour 25 gr LDS into the vent of the boot, insert the tubes and fasten the clamp.

The clamp is fastened with one click with two pliers. First, it is put on the first step, then the sliding pliers are inserted into the clamp so that one sponge clings to the end of the clamp, and the other clings to the bent ends of the wires. With other pliers we press these ends against the sliding pliers and pull them onto the second step. Ready! I could not make a photo, tk. both hands are busy, and time was pressing.

I return to the left cylinder. The cotter pin does not want to be removed in any.Gently, with precise blows of a weighty hammer on the protruding end of the cotter pin, holding it with pliers, it is possible to knock it out. Hooray!! However, if you are going to tackle this node, water it with VDshka in advance.

Then I had to knock the head of the rod out of the lever with a chisel. Then I disassemble the cylinder and assemble it by analogy with the previous one, not forgetting to make fun of the new details: scare3:. I lubricate with LDS and the piston fits tightly, but by hand. Interesting! I take it out back - all the rings sit, as expected, in their places. And then vague doubts begin to torment me.

Ambush number three. I disassemble the right cylinder again. It's easy when the movements have already been worked out. I pull out the piston. Oh God. The front ring has been cut in half, and a narrow strip has been cut from the far plastic ring. Nightmare. I had to install old seals. I inserted the piston, took it out, checked it again, inserted it. Hence the conclusion - no edits! The piston must be inserted by hand. However, one cannot be 100% sure that the plastic ring did not pop out.

I collect everything as it was, I put the boards close to the wheels. Do not forget to tighten the union and add fresh fluid to the reservoir!

I connect the battery, open the door, the pump starts humming, trying to understand what the sensors are showing to it. We start the car, the suspension is up, we pull the blocks out from under the thresholds and slide off the boards. Further, the suspension several times up and down to expel air. All OK.

I will now observe how the “new” cuffs behave.

if the cylinders do not flow and the boot is torn, it is better to change only the boot;

if you change the sphere, this is a convenient moment to change the seals;

the back spheres are much more difficult to unscrew than the front ones (I could not), you need a GOOD key;

before repairing for several days in a row, spill the VDshka in the area of ​​the heads of the rods and cotter pins;

do not forget to grease the heads of the rods and the seats in the levers with graphite, this will save you a lot of time and nerves in the future, well, or the next owner of the car.

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tarakan67 01 Sep 2013

Ambush number one. The cotter pin, exactly on the cylinder where the boot urgently needs to be changed, has soured tightly.

The cotter pin does not want to be removed in any. Gently, with precise blows of a weighty hammer on the protruding end of the cotter pin, holding it with pliers, it is possible to knock it out. Hooray!! However, if you are going to tackle this node, water it with VDshka in advance.

Then I had to knock the head of the rod out of the lever with a chisel.

I will now observe how the “new” cuffs behave.

if the cylinders do not flow and the boot is torn, it is better to change only the boot;

if you change the sphere, this is a convenient moment to change the seals;

the back spheres are much more difficult to unscrew than the front ones (I could not), you need a GOOD key;

before repairing for several days in a row, spill the VDshka in the area of ​​the heads of the rods and cotter pins;

do not forget to grease the heads of the rods and the seats in the levers with graphite, this will save you a lot of time and nerves in the future, well, or the next owner of the car.

If the cotter pin cannot be pulled out or the rod head does not come out, you can pull the boot off the head towards the cylinder and remove the rod from the cylinder (you may have to remove the lever and move it forward a little). Cylinders always “flow” when the cylinder is in operation, even with new seals, for this there is a pipe for returning leaks to the tank (the first from the side of the sphere). The "indication" for the replacement of seals is a significant subsidence of the rear of the car during long-term parking. In the summer, I noticed this feature: I looked under the car, and both anthers were wet, but not wet near the rod head, but near the cylinder (in the area of ​​the return pipe). The anthers are intact, the clamps are native. I climbed into the tank - there was a good overpressure and the LDS level was much higher than the maximum. Removed the extra LDS - so far, everything is fine.

The "indication" for the replacement of seals is a significant subsidence of the rear of the car during long-term parking.

It seems to me, well, do not care what sags! lizh would not get wet. Last year, the rear right cylinder leaked, a couple of drops fell from it to the ground during the night, in general it was clear that it was damp.Traveled for half a year so, just topped up liquid. Then he waved the entire cylinder together with a sphere and that's it 🙂

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oldvin 01 Sep 2013

Then he waved the entire cylinder with a sphere and all the repair kit costs a penny compared to the cost of the cylinder. By analogy, you can not repair a car, but go straight to the salon and buy a new one.

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Trofim1986 13 Oct 2013

Raise the machine to the very top and push the spheres out of the hole under pressure with a gas wrench No. 5, in a severe case with a chisel tangentially in the area of ​​the weld.

After that, release the pressure and completely unscrew the spheres.

Tell me the catalog numbers of the rear cylinders.

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tarakan67 06 Mar 2014

Tell me the catalog numbers of the rear cylinders.

I just repaired the old cylinder, it is still in stock. All the rings fit very well, now there is a contract :))

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yura c5 08 Mar 2014

I just repaired the old cylinder, it is still in stock. All the rings fit very well, now there is a contract :))

I fixed it, but it’s like a mirror on a piston. and in the cylinder itself. If there are scratches, then new cuffs will not help. I try to repair my car myself, and I disassembled and repaired the rear cylinders (racks). That is, I changed coins. I bought a repair kit in the store (2-coins in the form of a simple O-ring), but there was no plastic ring, and the coins themselves aroused suspicion, but the seller assured me that it was them. When assembling, the O-rings fell into place well, and the piston came in with an interference fit, in principle it should hold. I don't think that the plastic ring holds the pressure, but what it is there for, I can’t say. Until this cylinder was placed for better times, or when there’s nothing to do, I’ll check how it holds pressure.

Post has been editedyura c5: 08 March 2014 - 08:25

Anyone interested! Club car frames are made. More information on our forum >>>

RAD4UK74 »03 Aug 2012, 19:43

wasser »03 Aug 2012, 23:19

RAD4UK74 »04 Aug 2012, 12:56

Constantin »04 Aug 2012, 17:13

RAD4UK74 »04 Aug 2012, 21:01

yura C5 »04 Aug 2012, 21:04

Constantin »04 Aug 2012, 22:29

wasser »05 Aug 2012, 00:23

yura C5, changed the boot and removed the stem that comes out of the sphere, since the anther was torn, rust appeared on the stem, but not in the working area, the O-ring was changed in the sphere, and now I explain to "distant", the hydraulic pipe that goes to the cylinder was unscrewed in order to completely release the pressure and remove the stem, I myself was present during the repair and saw that they were doing the whole disassembly took 15-20 minutes, and I myself do not do anything in this case, I just pay money, for this and the masters what to do.
and so that questions would not gnaw you, if you are so smart, you would take and correct if something is wrong, the person asks for help, if you know everything, help him. and then you are engaged in criticism here. On the TUT bai, after each article, there is a section “user opinion” at the bottom, where they scratch right and left with their tongues, and criticize everyone, you go there, and here they help.

and about the hairpin that I said, look it is marked there with a red arrow

yura C5 »05 Aug 2012, 10:03

wasser wrote: yura C5, changed the boot and removed the stem that comes out of the sphere, since the anther was torn, rust appeared on the stem, but not in the working area, the O-ring was changed in the sphere, and now I explain to "distant", the hydraulic pipe that fits I was unscrewed to the cylinder in order to completely release the pressure and remove the stem, I myself was present during the repair and saw that they were doing the whole disassembly took 15-20 minutes, and I myself do not do anything in this case, I just pay money for this and master what to do.
and so that questions would not gnaw you, if you are so smart, you would take and correct if something is wrong, the person asks for help, if you know everything, help him. and then you are engaged in criticism here. On the TUT bai, after each article, there is a section “user opinion” at the bottom, where they scratch right and left with their tongues, and criticize everyone, you go there, and here they help.

and about the hairpin that I said, look it is marked there with a red arrow

wasser »05 Aug 2012, 11:05

XM TURBO GT 06 Aug 2012, 19:14

yura C5 »06 Aug 2012, 19:51

XM TURBO GT »07 Aug 2012, 08:57

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Help with hydraulics. pump repair, general questions Assessment:

#1 bal2003

Citroen c5 2001, after replacing the hydraulic asset pump assembly, I can not pump the system, the pump turns on and works after a while off. When you press the keys up and down, the display shows that the car is raised. Lowering. pump in this case also incl. But at the exit of the pipes nothing comes out, maybe there are some subtleties when pumping I will be glad to any hint. Thank you

#2 citrogid

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bal2003 (06 April 2010 - 15:01):

IN THE RESERVOIR, IT IS NECESSARY TO CREATE A LOW EXCESS PRESSURE.

#3 bal2003

#4 dimaska

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#5 bal2003

Post has been edited by dimaska: 08 April 2010 - 05:13

#6 dimaska

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#7 citrogid

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  BX, XM, Xantia, C5.

Hello . I am asking you for help.
I registered on the forum (my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/539), but I can't activate my account, so I write like this.

We have the following: citroen c5 purchased 09.2009 from Denmark, 2.0hdi 137hp without FAP, 2005 year, station wagon, original mileage for today 246000, VF7RERHRG76702904, Vitebsk, Belarus.
Since the date of purchase, I have topped up LDS twice, in the winter before frost I added 0.5 liters and in March 0.8 liters, it does not flow, but snotty (when studying the source - “return clamp”).

Yesterday, while driving around the city, an error appeared: “SUSPENSION FAULTY: max speed 90 km / h”

When the ignition is on (driving), the ride height adjustment button works, onboard computer. takes the given value and, most importantly, confirms it and supposedly fixes the given position. But in fact, the car is motionless, in a position closer to the "bottom". With all this manipulation, there is no sound of the pump of the BHI unit. LDS level is normal.
In the luggage compartment, pressing the same button with the ignition off, a signal is heard (raising warning buzzer), but the ground clearance level remains unchanged. There is no sound from the pump.

There is no corresponding service in Vitebsk (Minsk is far away), but I think I will find LEXIA.
Tell me where to start, maybe a trite fuse, where, which one?
I really need help. Thanks in advance

#8 dimaska

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  Citroen C5-1 2.0 HPI

#9 citrogid

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dimaska ​​(April 27, 2010 - 09:48):

men do not be offended!
I am under cars from 7 am to 10 pm. then thick and empty.
I simply don’t have the time and energy to write.
many of the questions asked are answered on the forum or in the detailed materials on the site.
I think it won't hurt everyone to be enlightened by reading

#10 sanyk

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citrogid (April 27, 2010 - 11:17 am):

Hello . I am asking you for help.
I registered on the forum (my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/539), but I can't activate my account, so I write like this.

We have the following: citroen c5 purchased 09.2009 from Denmark, 2.0hdi 137hp without FAP, 2005 year, station wagon, original mileage for today 246000, VF7RERHRG76702904, Vitebsk, Belarus.
Since the date of purchase, I have topped up LDS twice, in the winter before frost I added 0.5 liters and in March 0.8 liters, it does not flow, but snotty (when studying the source - “return clamp”).

Yesterday, while driving around the city, an error appeared: “SUSPENSION FAULTY: max speed 90 km / h”

When the ignition is on (driving), the ride height adjustment button works, onboard computer. takes the given value and, most importantly, confirms it and supposedly fixes the given position. But in fact, the car is motionless, in a position closer to the "bottom". With all this manipulation, there is no sound of the pump of the BHI unit. LDS level is normal.
In the luggage compartment, pressing the same button with the ignition off, a signal is heard (raising warning buzzer), but the ground clearance level remains unchanged. There is no sound from the pump.

There is no corresponding service in Vitebsk (Minsk is far away), but I think I will find LEXIA.
Tell me where to start, maybe a trite fuse, where, which one?
I really need help. Thanks in advance

You have a problem in the BHI electric motor, the fuse will be blown and replacement will not help, and if it rises, then it will burn out again. It is necessary to remove the pump and disassemble. I'm in Minsk, if you need information on the repair, throw off your phone. in a personal, we will solve the problem.

Hello everyone, I have a problem, the motor of the hydraulic pump citroen c5 2004 in the old body of 2 liters 136 hp gasoline is urgently needed, or better, an analogue

I have a question about hydraulics: inside the opening of the front arch behind the wheel there is a rubber tube. seemingly "return" through it, hydraulic fluid circulates. 🙂 where exactly I do not know. but it burst a little and the hydras are leaking. liquid. Attention to the question: is it necessary to “bleed off” (relieve) the pressure inside the system in order to replace it and are there such rubber tubes on sale or to look for only used ones?

I got a car with a burnt out engine. So which motor should you mount there?

Hi, such a problem: I took off the pump, cleaned it. He began to close the clothes back

• FREE suspension diagnostics in 15min
• When registering for diagnostics through the website discount card as a gift
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• Bleeding brake systems with a stand under pressure
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It is necessary to timely monitor the condition of the hydro-air suspension of your car. The suspension design of the Citroen Xantia, C5 is fundamentally different from the suspension system of other cars.

For owners of cars Citroen Xantia, C5 and those who are just about to acquire a faithful "horse" of the Citroen brand !!

Every motorist, at least once, but surely saw a Citroen sinking to the ground or galloping like a kid, thinking how good that I am not French. Let's see why this is happening.

Even in the last century, in the 50s, the designers of the Citroen concern developed and implemented the world's first pneumatic hydraulic suspension, which differs from the others in its comfort and softness.

There is nothing supernatural in the operation of this system, it uses the elementary laws of physics:

1. liquid is not compressible
2. features of an inert gas.

Most hydraulic suspension problems arise only from inadequacy or maintenance.

Owners of vehicles equipped with hydraulic suspension should at least twice a year (before and after winter) contact the Virazh service station where they can diagnose, clean and lubricate the hydraulic suspension tracking mechanisms. It is also worthwhile to immediately contact the VIRAZH STO if you find the following signs:

1. Spontaneous raising or lowering of the vehicle.
2. Suspension rigidity.
3. Frequent clicking from under the hood (more than once every 30 seconds)
4. Slow hydraulic response when lifting or lowering.
5. Not confident car behavior on the road.
6. Changing the height (clearance) of the car.
7. Traces of liquid under the car.

Virazh Auto Service specialists have many years of experience working with Citroen hydraulic suspensions. Our specialists will quickly and efficiently diagnose, service or repair any of the hydraulic systems of your car. For the repair of Citroen hydraulic suspensions at the Virazh service station, technologies and equipment have been developed that allow to restore: hinge joints in the tracking mechanisms (platforms), and even restore (without removing the car's hydraulic cylinders) rotted landing edges of the rear hydraulic cylinders.

Tightening up with diagnostics, maintenance or repairs can lead to a failure of the hydraulic suspension system, and as a result, a significant increase in repair costs. And on cars Citroen Xantiyak failure of the braking system and steering.

The difference in the hydraulic suspension device of the Citroen C5 from Citroen Xantia is in the control of the supply of hydraulic fluid to the cylinders and the drive of the hydraulic pump (hydronic module).

Do not forget about the difference in the fluids used in cars and the fact that they are incompatible with each other LDS oil is used for Citroen C5, LHM is required for Xanthia. Also, do not forget about the need to replace hydraulic fluids. The LHM hydraulic fluid change interval in the Xantia vehicle is 30,000 km.

The interval for changing the LDS hydraulic fluid in the C5 car is longer and is 80,000 km

We recommend that you regularly contact the service station bend for diagnostics and inspection work of your Citroen. This will allow you to be confident in your car, reduce costs and enjoy the comfortable Citroen hydraulic suspension.

condition and give advice on the maintenance and repair of the suspension

• Repair of tracking mechanisms (platforms)
• Repair of Rack hydraulic cylinders (we can even restore a destroyed case)
• Hydro-pneumatic suspension pump repair
• Pressure regulator repair
• Hydraulic cylinder repair
• Eliminate leaks from any suspension joints
• Replacement and repair of hydraulic pneumatic suspension lines
• Replacing the hydraulic pneumatic accumulator (Sphere)

It is important to remember that each of these models uses an individual hydraulic-air suspension oil. Timely oil change will extend the life of all suspension assemblies and assemblies!

Hi, I live in Armenia, I am very smart about eating Citroen C5, well, I think that the guitar systems are not harasso working.

This is 2 times MORE than usual. Our experience of 10 years allows us to provide a unique warranty for repairs and spare parts twice as large as provided by law

All work, time and amount will be agreed with you in advance. Car repair is a common thing for us and we can easily invest in the agreed conditions.

Your car will be safe in our car park. The cars of all our clients are under reliable protection.

You are NOT overpaying. We do not “condemn” the details, but we repair, what is changed in other services.

A huge stock of spare parts, both original and high-quality analogues. This means that the repair will take place as soon as possible, and you will not need to search for spare parts.

Service transparency. You can attend diagnostics and repairs. We will show what went wrong.

Autotechcenter "Virage" Smolensk.
Opening hours: 8:00 - 20:00
Popova 7a.
Tel. +79107857040
Moscow highway 1a.
Tel. +79107857060

Hello everybody!
There is the following situation.
Changed the spheres to hydro-passive ones. Both the front and the back swing very well, but knocks are heard from behind. When I changed the O-rings on the rear cylinders, I noticed that the rod heads (on the ball joint which) are very loose. Could they be causing the knocking?
And I also noticed:
on one cylinder, the piston enters “evenly tightly” by hand, and on the other, you even need to tap a piece of wood to drive it. Can such a tight movement be the reason for poor working out of small irregularities?

And if anything, maybe someone knows the numbers of the rods, and hydraulic cylinders, see the price tags in existential order

Many thanks to everyone who otkltknuvshis in advance.

The Citroen C5 is, in a sense, an exotic car from the point of view of repair, which is why it is so reluctant to be accepted into services. But as we can see, there is nothing complicated in its repair. The devil is not so terrible as he is painted - everything is quite possible to do with your own hands. Good luck!

Good day everyone. Foolishly ruined the engine. I missed the oil and naturally jammed. They said that it would be cheaper to replace. I ordered it through Moscow. According to the contract, the delivery time is 2 weeks, but they have passed and there is no product. Tell me what to do if anyone has encountered this. Thank you in advance.

Terrible. A movie about how the C5 is being destroyed 🙁

well done thank you for showing everything I have the same 2004 year I will know what's what

13 years on the site
user # 27949

Service station "500 Ampere" at 4 Kupriyanova carries out diagnostics, repairs, bulkheads, adjustment of Citroen Xantia and C5 hydraulic suspension assemblies.

We diagnose a car before buying it, show the nuances and sore spots.

Repair of hydraulic pipes without removing, complete replacement of main and supply pipes, replacement of Pump-Rail, Pump-Pressure Regulator pipes.

Replacement of spheres, LHM, height correctors, lifting platforms, pressure regulators, H / U pumps, steering racks, support cushions, clearance adjustment, replacement of steering crosspieces.

Repair of electric pumps of hydraulic suspension Citroen C5.

Repair of front hydraulic props on Citroen C5 X7 (5271.L5 + 5271.L6, after 2008).

Replacing the main pipe with a Citroen C5 (original gasket with lowering the subframe and removing the tank, or simplified)

Electrical and electronic repair of French cars.

We buy used hydraulic suspension parts from the population (link below).

Rear hydraulic cylinders with and without GA, hatchback + station wagon (Xantia, C5);
Steering joint (Xantia);
Height corrector (Xantia);
Hydraulic pump 6 + 2;
Supports of the front struts with and without G / A (Xantia, XM);
Front and rear corrector shelves;
Old and new pressure regulators;
Steering racks (Xantia);
Spheres (Xantia, C5);
Various repair kits (GTZ, corrector shelves, correctors, rear hydraulic cylinders, etc.);
Collets in 3 sizes (P, F, H);
Brake and hydraulic pipes by the meter;
Collet fastening clips (bone);
Calipers (Xantia, C5);

All spare parts are available in retail stores and service stations. we carry out delivery throughout the country.

All remanufactured products are provided with a 6-month warranty and a warranty card is issued when installed at our workshop.

You can learn more about our assortment, availability and prices on our website

500 Ampere-Green Meadow - Logoisk tract 21.1:

500 Ampere-Sukharevo - Sukharevskaya 31, GIPPO store.

Tel .: VELCOM: 8-029-112-53-89.
MTS: 8-029-278-53-89.

Online store-sending to regions, delivery of spare parts:

MTS - 8 (029) 830-39-69, Velcom - 8 (029) 680-39-69

STO-500 Ampere: Kupriyanova 4:

Restoration of the front hydraulic props on the Citroen C5 X7:

Removal of the active suspension (11 spheres), conversion to a hydraulic system:

This photo shows the corrosion of most of the hydraulic pipes. Suppressing the supply pipes of the front hydraulic shock absorber.

The components of the famous "Asset" suspension are valves, regulators, sphere of assets. everything is deleted.

The number of spheres is impressive. It is a pity that in our conditions it does not work as it should.

Complete removal of parts of the active suspension from the rear of the car. We pulled new tubes to the client, changed the rear hydraulic cylinders.

Further, the report on the repair of hydroactive Xanthia 94 years old:

This client had the task of adding an anti-shrink valve (Xantia 94 y.o., 5 spheres). Problems: after the engine was turned off, the rear of the car would quickly sink.

Added anti-shrink valve assembly with a sphere. redirected all the pipes.

As a result, the car stands still and does not go down.

And here are the Citroen C6 racks - contacted a partner service station:

The photo shows the electronic control unit.

We are also restoring these racks.

(ChTUP "Logoyka" UNP 190884223) number in the register of consumer services 8938 dated April 22, 2008.

It is possible to carry out maintenance, diagnostics and repair of the hydropneumatic suspension Hydractive of Citroen cars in our car service.

• the car stops rising / falling;
• the normal position of the car is disturbed (its front / rear part is lifted up, the car sags heavily, "to lie down");
• an error is displayed on the dashboard;
• characteristic sounds appear in the chassis;
• When viewed, the LHM (hydraulic fluid) color is brown rather than green;
• there is a fluid leak;
• frequent clicks of the pressure regulator in the accumulator are heard (the norm is no more than 1 time in 0.5 minutes).

• failure of solenoid valves;
• malfunctions of the steering wheel rotation sensor, body height sensors, etc.;
• breakdown of a hydraulic pump (average service life is about 100 thousand km);
• malfunctions of hydrospheres - leaks (they serve about 150 thousand km);
• failure of accumulators;
• damage to the pipes of the hydraulic system;
• failure of the suspension control computer;
• wear of the bearings of the rear levers (their resource is about 40 thousand km), and sometimes the levers themselves;
• malfunctions of the stabilizer struts (their average service life is about 50 thousand kilometers);
• failure of the silent blocks of the front levers, ball bearings, steering rods, tips, stabilizer bushings (the latter serve about 80 thousand km of run).

Carrying out work of this kind requires not only special qualifications and great experience from the masters who carry them out, but also the availability of original equipment, including a Lexia diagnostic scanner, and a special tool. Hydropneumatic suspension Hydractive is a rather complex technical device, the repair and maintenance of which must be carried out with great care, accuracy and compliance with all necessary standards. Turning to our car service, you can be sure that all the listed requirements are fulfilled by us.

In order to maintain the serviceability of the hydropneumatic suspension of Citroen (Citroen), it is necessary to regularly monitor its condition.

Firstly, every 50-60 thousand kilometers for a mineral hydraulic fluid or 100-120 thousand kilometers for a synthetic one requires its replacement. The manufacturer recommended the Total and Elf brands for use. At the same time, the filters are cleaned. Depending on the model, you will need 3-7 liters of liquid.

Secondly, every 120 thousand km of run it is necessary to clean the hydraulic system from chemical deposits using a special Total Hydraurincage fluid.

Thirdly, during the next maintenance, you need to check the pressure in the spheres (wheel and hydraulic accumulators). If the value obtained as a result of measurements is about 15 atmospheres, the sphere needs to be pumped, if the pressure is close to atmospheric, the part must be replaced (most likely, the diaphragm is damaged in it). The resource of such spheres is about 100-150 thousand km of run, for new models - about 200 thousand km.