DIY hydraulic cylinder repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a hydraulic cylinder from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Image - DIY hydraulic cylinder repair

Basically, hydraulic cylinders are installed on construction and special equipment. Examples of such equipment are trucks with self-dumping bodies (dump trucks), tractors, bulldozers, cranes, etc. Failure of the hydraulic system turns the equipment from a special into a conventional one and makes it practically useless.

Here we will consider the main recommendations related to the repair of hydraulic cylinders with our own hands. I will say right away that this is a rather long and laborious process that will require certain skills from you. Therefore, if you are not confident in your own abilities, seek help from professionals, for example, here - they will help you solve all problems with the hydraulic cylinder and the system as a whole.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the main failure of the entire hydraulic system is the cylinder rod. Let's talk about him.

First, you have to dismantle the hydraulic cylinder from the car. How to do it - you can find out from the instruction manual for your car. All machines are different, all have their own hydraulic system, so there is no single instruction.

After dismantling the hydraulic cylinder, you need to carry out a visual inspection of the device. The housing must not be damaged in any way and must form a single, sealed structure. If a visual inspection showed nothing, and often this happens, then we proceed to disassemble the hydraulic cylinder itself. In most cases, the problem is hidden inside.

After disassembly, you should receive, roughly speaking, 3 main parts - rod, cylinder and piston. Now it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of all 3 parts for damage. The stem must not be bent or bent. Otherwise, it must be replaced. The cylinder should not have significant depletion on the inner walls throughout its entire area. Large grooves or grooves will compromise the tightness of the entire structure. A cylinder with a high output must be either grinded or replaced with a new one.

Video (click to play).

The piston must also be free of damage and signs of significant wear. It is best to replace all cuffs and seals with new ones immediately. They are not so expensive, and it will be costly to disassemble the hydraulic cylinder again, so that it will be costly to replace them.

Repair of the hydraulic cylinder for lifting the body gas 3309.

Image - DIY hydraulic cylinder repair

Basically, hydraulic cylinders are installed on construction and special equipment. Examples of such equipment are trucks with self-dumping bodies (dump trucks), tractors, bulldozers, cranes, etc. Failure of the hydraulic system turns the equipment from a special into a conventional one and makes it practically useless.

Here we will consider the main recommendations related to the repair of hydraulic cylinders with our own hands. I will say right away that this is a rather long and laborious process that will require certain skills from you. Therefore, if you are not confident in your own abilities, seek help from professionals, for example, here - they will help you solve all problems with the hydraulic cylinder and the system as a whole.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the main failure of the entire hydraulic system is the cylinder rod. Let's talk about him.

First, you have to dismantle the hydraulic cylinder from the car. How to do it - you can find out from the instruction manual for your car. All machines are different, all have their own hydraulic system, so there is no single instruction.

After dismantling the hydraulic cylinder, you need to carry out a visual inspection of the device. The housing must not be damaged in any way and must form a single, sealed structure.If a visual inspection showed nothing, and often this happens, then we proceed to disassemble the hydraulic cylinder itself. In most cases, the problem is hidden inside.

After disassembly, you should receive, roughly speaking, 3 main parts - rod, cylinder and piston. Now it is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection of all 3 parts for damage. The stem must not be bent or bent. Otherwise, it must be replaced. The cylinder should not have significant depletion on the inner walls throughout its entire area. Large grooves or grooves will compromise the tightness of the entire structure. A cylinder with a high output must be either grinded or replaced with a new one.

Read also:  DIY headlight repair with a lens vaz 2110

The piston must also be free of damage and signs of significant wear. It is best to replace all cuffs and seals with new ones immediately. They are not so expensive, and it will be costly to disassemble the hydraulic cylinder again, so that it will be costly to replace them.

Dump truck ZIL-MMZ-4502. Hydraulic cylinder

The hydraulic cylinder (Fig. 15) is a telescopic single-acting cylinder with four telescopic links, designed to lift the body.

It consists of a body 21, a bottom b, sliding links 20, ball bearings 2 and 12, cast iron guide inserts (sectors) 19 and 24 and seals.

Sealing of the sliding / links is carried out by means of rubber o-rings 18, installed in the grooves of the body and links.

To increase the reliability of the sealing rings, plastic (fluoroplastic) protective washers 17 are installed in the same grooves.

To prevent dust and dirt from entering the hydraulic cylinder, rubber wipers 16 are installed in its upper part.

The maximum travel of the retractable links when lifting the body is limited by the protrusions in the body, and when lowering - by the protrusions of the links and split thrust rings 25.

The bottom b is screwed onto the body from below, sealed with a rubber O-ring 26.

There is an oil drain hole in the bottom, closed with a plug 27.4

The fastening of the hydraulic cylinder to the brackets of the subframe 1 (Fig. 16) and the body 5 is made in the form of ball joints and is carried out using ball bearings 2, b and ball heads 5, 9 (see Fig. 15) screwed into the retractable link and the bottom, and fixed retaining rings 15 and 23.

To prevent the hydraulic cylinder from rotating around the longitudinal axis, a rocker 9 (see Fig. 16) is attached to the link 7 of the body, which is included in a special groove in the bracket of the lower support of the hydraulic cylinder 1.

The flow of oil into the hydraulic cylinder and drainage are carried out through the hole A in the body of the hydraulic cylinder 21 and the union 22 (see Fig. 15).

The rubbing surfaces of the hydraulic cylinder sprinkling joints are lubricated through the nipples 1 and 13.

Rice. 15. Hydraulic cylinder.
1, 13 - nipples; 2, 12 - spherical dough; 3, 11, 14, 15, 28 - retaining rings; 4 10 - nuts; 5, 9 - ball heads; 6 - bottom; 7 - link for attaching the wings; 8 — plunger head; 16 - wipers; 17 — protective washers; 18 and 26 — O-rings; 19 and 24 — guide inserts (sectors); 20 — pull-out links; 21 — case; 22 — fitting; 23 — cork; 25 — thrust rings (split); 27 — drain plug;
A - hole for supply and drain of oil

Rice. 16. Attachment of the hydraulic cylinder and limiting valve

When disassembling the hydraulic lift cylinder (see Figure 93), unscrew the plug 1 from the bottom of the 37 cylinder, unscrew the bottom 37 of the cylinder with a special key, from the body 26 and remove the thrust ring 32 from the bottom.

Remove the housing 26 assembled with the clamp 30 of the lower support from the third sliding tube 27 of the cylinder, remove the retaining ring 11 from the groove of the pipe, press out the guide 13 of the third sliding tube and remove the washer 14, the sealing ring 15 and the sleeve 16 from the grooves of the guide.

The half rings 31 are removed from the grooves of the third sliding tube 27 of the cylinder, the tube 27 of the cylinder is removed together with the second sliding tube 28 of the cylinder, the retaining ring 8 is removed from the groove of the pipe, the guide 6 of the second sliding tube is pressed out and the washer 17, the sealing ring 18 and bushing 19.

Take out the guide half rings 33 from the grooves of the second sliding tube 28 of the cylinder, remove the retaining ring 5 from the groove of the tube, remove the tube 28 assembled with the first sliding tube 29 of the cylinder.

The guide half rings 35 are removed from the pipe grooves, the pipe locking ring 29 is removed with pliers (Fig. 305), the head 9 (see Figure 93) of the upper cylinder support is pressed out with a puller, the guide 3 of the first sliding pipe 29 is pressed and the washer 21 is removed from the grooves. , O-ring 22 and bushing 24.

The pin is pressed out of the hole in the cylindrical part of the head of the upper cylinder support, the head 9 from the adapter 2 and the nut 10 of the upper cylinder support is removed from the head.

The disassembled parts are thoroughly washed, cleaned and sorted. Before assembly, all assembled parts of the unit must be wiped and blown with dry compressed air.

When assembling the cylinder (see Fig. 93), the ball head 9 of the upper cylinder support is inserted into the hole of the nut 10, which is pressed with a cylindrical surface into the hole of the adapter 2 of the head with a wooden hammer until it stops against the collar. Then a pin is pressed into the hole in the protruding part of the head so that the protruding ends of the pin are of the same length.

The subassembled assembly with the adapter 2 is pressed with a wooden hammer into the bore of the first sliding tube 29 of the cylinder assembly until it stops and with pliers (see Figure 305) insert the locking ring into the groove of the sliding tube of the cylinder.

A thrust ring 25, a bushing 24, a wiper 4, a ring 22 and a washer 21 are installed in the grooves of the guide 3 of the sliding tube of the cylinder.

The assembled guide with O-rings is pressed with a mandrel onto the sliding tube 29 of the cylinder assembly.

Collect the guide 6 of the second sliding tube with a stop ring 23, bushing 19, wiper 7, ring 18 and washer 17. Press the assembled guide with O-rings into the third sliding tube 27 of the cylinder until it stops and insert the retaining ring 8 into the groove of the cylinder tube.

Read also:  Do-it-yourself gas 3110 repair

A guide 13 of the third sliding tube 27 of the cylinder is assembled with a thrust ring 20, a bushing 16, a wiper 12, a ring 15 and a washer 14. The assembled guide with rings is pressed into the cylinder body 26 in assembly until it stops and the locking ring is inserted into the pipe groove.

Then, two guide half rings 35 are inserted into the grooves of the first sliding tube 29 of the cylinder, a assembled pipe with a guide and half rings is inserted into the second sliding tube 28, and a locking ring 5 is inserted into the groove of this tube.

In the groove of the second cylinder sliding tube 28, two guide half rings 33 and a third cylinder sliding tube 27 are inserted. Two guide half rings 31 are inserted into the groove of the pipe 27 and the cylinder body 26 is fitted with a clamp 30 of the lower support.

An O-ring 32 is installed in the groove of the bottom, the bottom is screwed onto the stationary pipe of the cylinder with a special key, and plug 1 is screwed into the bottom of the cylinder.

The assembled hydraulic lift cylinder is tested for tightness with industrial oil 12 at a pressure of 15 MPa (150 kgf / cm2) on a stand (Fig. 306). Under the influence of oil pressure, the cylinder links should extend smoothly without jamming. Oil leakage is not allowed.

Hydraulic Cylinder Repair Binotto Film 2