Do-it-yourself power steering repair

In detail: do-it-yourself power steering repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is subjected to heavy loads, so from time to time it becomes necessary to repair the power steering pump.

You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a bearing that has failed. In this case, a power steering pump repair kit is useful, which can be bought at any automotive store.

Before making a decision to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of fluid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the one allowed for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the symptoms of a malfunction is the appearance of air jams in the system. Therefore, if this is suspected, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. The performance of the power steering in this case can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for the work:

you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
you will need a puller for the retaining rings;
prepare in advance two washers made of copper, a gasket for the rear casing, o-rings, in the amount of two pieces and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a power steering pump repair kit;
it is obligatory to have a bearing marked “6202” and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
to pump out oil from the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
prepare fine sandpaper and rags for wiping.

In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it yourself, you need to perform the following steps.

Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole provided in the pulley. Completely unscrew the lock nut of the tensioner and remove the belt.
Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.

Video (click to play).

Loosen the clamp on the hose that comes from the expansion tank, and remove this pipeline.

Unscrew the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
Remove the axial bolt securing the pump to the bracket and insert a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in its place in order to lock the pulley. After that, unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the body of the unit.
Using a puller, remove the bearing circlip.
Loosen the rear cover screws. Carefully pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.

Pull out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the blades when assembled. When installed in the housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.

Remove the plate and all parts under it.
Knock out the shaft, carefully tapping with a screwdriver.

Press the bearing off the pump shaft.

Change the unusable bearing to a pre-prepared one.

Check the parts of the pump unit for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say that simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.

Reassemble in reverse order. It is mandatory to change the stuffing box, o-rings and washers to new ones prepared in advance.

If it is difficult for you to repair the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce repair time. Also watch related videos:

Very useful article! And even though I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. I jammed Gur (most likely a bearing). Dismantled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Too bad I didn't see this post before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to throw a wrench on the bottom of the fitting, and unscrew the top.
Thank you for the article!A very useful article. I myself am now suffering with the gur ford exp3 4.6. And howls and tight ... nodo to sort out ... Already in my head porridge from studying and generally searching for information ....Repair of the hydraulic booster can be ordered at the service station or done independently, after reading the instructions. You need to purchase a repair kit to replace damaged parts. Do-it-yourself power steering repair is performed by many motorists.

A pump is a device that moves a fluid, in this case oil, through a closed system. Pumps in the power steering can be mounted vane or sliding. These types of pumps are stable, do not fail quickly, and have a long overhaul period.

The drive at the pump is belt. Through the belt, rotation is transmitted from the crankshaft to the pump shaft. During the operation of the pump, the system reaches a maximum pressure of 150 bar (atmospheres) or 15 MPa. The basis for the correct operation of the pump is the clearances set by the factory, which should be in the range from 0.05 to 0.1 mm. If the pump is badly worn, the gaps increase, and the driver feels that the steering wheel has begun to turn harder.

Modern cars are designed with maximum comfort for the driver and passengers. So that the driver can easily turn the steering wheel (even with one finger), a power steering is installed. It can be electric (EUR) or hydraulic (GUR).

In addition to facilitating the rotation of the steering wheel, the EUR and power steering softens and absorbs bumps. Also, the power steering keeps the steering wheel straight, even if the wheel bursts.

Although the vane and vane pumps installed in the power steering design do not break down so often, let's still consider what the signs are and how to extend the life of the pump.

Change the fluid on time. Few people change the oil in the hydraulic booster, but it becomes obsolete and loses its properties. Therefore, it is necessary to do so.
Monitor the fluid level in the power steering reservoir.
Try not to turn the steering wheel when the engine is not running. If the fluid in the power steering system does not move, then the pump overheats. The oil does not move if turned many times with the engine off.
When changing the oil, be careful not to get debris.

Subject to the rules of operation, the power steering serves for a long time. Periodically check the oil level. When adding liquid, add only the same brand.

If there are signs of a malfunction in the power steering system, do not drive fast and long distances until the causes are eliminated.

If there are difficulties with turning the steering wheel at idle and at low speeds. At high speeds, there are no problems with turning the steering wheel.
If you find a fluid leak from the power steering system.
If extraneous sounds are heard while turning the steering wheel.
If a whistle or bearing hum is heard. If the bearing is removed, then there will be play when the pulley rolls.

Before you start disassembling the device, you need to check if there is an air lock in the system that interferes with the movement of fluid. It is because of the air lock that most often there are malfunctions in hydraulic systems. That is, first of all we pump power steering. If after this the reasons have not disappeared, then we proceed to dismantle the hydraulic system, disassemble it and repair the system parts.

We do a complete cleanup. At the same time, make sure that dirt does not get into the hoses.
Remove drive belt.
Drain as much oil as possible.
Now you need to put a mark on the power steering shaft relative to the elastic coupling (for this you have to crawl under the car). Using a hexagon, unscrew the steering shaft.
We dismantle the steering rods. To do this, you need to raise the left side of the car with a jack and remove the wheel. Usually, to remove the traction, you need to use a special puller. But, in this case, this can be done without a puller.
We take a 15 socket wrench and loosen the power steering bolts to the side member. This is done from the side of the wing arch. We unscrew 2 bolts completely, leave one in place.
Now, what is left in the hoses must be drained. To do this, we substitute a cut empty canister or other container.
When the liquid has flowed out of the hose, it is necessary to plug them with rags.
Now you need to unscrew the remaining one bolt. We unscrew with one hand, with the second we hold the hydrach device.
Carefully, slowly remove the pump.

First, we examine whether the case is broken, whether there is metal corrosion. In the process of disassembly, usually, the cause of the breakdown is clarified. Next, we disassemble the components of the pump.

The circlip holds the bearing. This ring must be removed with a puller.
Unscrew the bolts securing the rear cover. The cover is removed with a slotted screwdriver. It is necessary to remove it carefully so that the blades do not fly out and the pump housing.
Those who do not remember the location the first time are advised to take blank sheets of A4 format, number them on them and spread them out. In the process of disassembly, the parts are laid out on these sheets in a certain order. You also need to remember that the blades with the rounded part then need to be installed outward.
Now you need to remove the plate and the parts under it.
After that, proceed to the removal of the shaft.It must be carefully knocked out, for this you can use a brass hammer or a rubber one, which is used by master tilers.
From the removed shaft it is necessary to press the bearing.
If the problem was in the bearings, that is, it can wedge, or crumble, or simply rotate tightly, then we press in a new bearing.
In addition to the bearing, it is necessary to check all the details of the device and, if necessary, replace them.
At this stage, when the failed parts are replaced, it is necessary to assemble the power steering device.

In the design of the car there are very important components, devices and parts, but there are less important ones. Here are the most important nodes should be monitored often. If signs are found, try to eliminate the cause as soon as possible.

This video shows the device and principle of operation of the Chevrolet Aveo power steering pump

How to repair the power steering pump yourself

1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not get into the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.

2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).

3. Taking the hexagon “6”, unscrew the screws of the steering shaft coupling from the bottom of the machine. Before that, do not forget to mark its position relative to the hydraulic booster shaft with a roll.

4. Slide the flexible sleeve off the splines using a pry bar.

5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.

6. Jack up the car and remove the left front wheel.

7. Taking the socket wrench to “15”, loosen the three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member from the side of the wheel arch, removing two of them.

8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to drain the liquid.

9. Seal hoses and fittings with at least a rag.

10. Holding the hydraulic booster from the bottom of the machine with one hand, unscrew the bolt that remains and do not drop the gearbox on your leg.

11. Clean the gearbox thoroughly before disassembling.

Many experts strongly recommend re-reading articles about power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are almost completely disassembled, with the exception of the “ball nut - steering shaft screw” pair, while others are better left untouched. Although even if you accidentally unscrewed the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them. Image - Do-it-yourself power steering repair

Power steering repair steps:

1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon on “6”, as well as an ordinary old tray into which ATP will begin to merge.

2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering above the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.

3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts seated on the fixing mastic, and therefore quite difficult to unscrew.

4. Loosen the adjusting screw lock nut, and then turn the screw into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.

5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the cuff, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.

6. Get a spring, and shake out the valve.

7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the housing. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.

8. Pry up the resulting gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and piston from the gearbox.

9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.

10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.

11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball guide channel.

12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown.There can be several reasons for the backlash of the power steering: gaps in the “shaft-ball nut” pair, in the shaft bearing assembly (in the cover), and also in the bearing assembly of the ball nut in the piston housing itself.

13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal loosening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If play is found in the shaft-cover assembly, then loosen the locknut and tighten it so that the play disappears, but without fanaticism. Do not forget to carry out the “operation” in cleanliness, that is, the cleaned part should shine.

If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be too lazy to get detailed power steering drawings or take sheets of paper and lay out each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you definitely won’t lose anything and assemble the power steering without errors, and they don’t joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.

14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATP.

Good luck to you, motorists, in the repair of power steering!

Many modern cars are equipped with power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. Power steering on VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair power steering pump.

Read also: DIY repair 5r55s

The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, and the power steering pump is no exception.
The power steering pump for cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter.
The whole difficulty lies in the fact that this pump model is not collapsible, that is, there are no retaining rings or covers.

Hello everyone! My name is Michael, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange my dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that the breakdowns of the dvenashki began to annoy me wildly, it seemed that nothing serious was broken, but on trifles, damn it, there were so many things that really started to piss me off. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on Tayotu Camry tenth years.

but restore power steering pump nevertheless it is possible.

We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instruction). Then we carefully clean it from dirt and visually inspect to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them may be the development on the inner wall of the pump housing in the form of a step. You can remove the step with a nozzle on the drill.

another reason power steering pump malfunction there may be a worn bearing in a closed case (450 rubles) or an old oil seal (50 rubles).
When installing the oil seal, it may be necessary to grind the shaft a little on a lathe.

And there are two ways to fix a new bearing in the pump housing:
Make a recess with a turner on the outside of the bearing. Drill threaded holes in the wall of the pump. Insert a new bearing and secure it with sharpened bolts, which are then sawn off.

Alternatively, secure the bearing inside the pump using the bent edges of the housing.
We assemble the power steering pump in the reverse order. Unlike Saginaw pumps, ZF pump vanes do not flip over.
To put a flange on the shaft, you need a heated flange on the shaft. After a sharp cooling, he will sit down firmly.

If power steering pump hums after assembly, then do not be alarmed, this is the grinding of parts, after 300-500 km the hum will go away.
Don't forget to change the power steering fluid afterwards. It is worth noting that the device and repair of the electric power steering is much simpler than the power steering.

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Those who have already encountered car breakdowns know for sure that it will be a little expensive to make repairs at service centers. Much easier than ever, the most important thing is cheap - do it yourself. repair of the power steering pump. You can also carry out diagnostics to identify malfunctions in the operation of the pump itself.

The most difficult dismantling is to free the pump from disconnecting the supply hoses with tubes and draining the hydraulic fluid. Initially, we loosen the belt or unhook the gear drive, then unscrew it from the attachment to the engine block. We flush the housing from dirt accumulation.

Next, we disassemble the pump housing itself. Very carefully remembering this moment, how everything is attached (or else there will be a problem during assembly), then we thoroughly clean all the constituent elements from the inside from dirt.

4. Uneven surface of the inside of the cylinder (stator).

We examine the rotor, paying attention to the grooves: their edges should be smooth and sharp, without chips and notches.

Next, we look at the inner working surface of the stator, it often happens that it is its wear that is the cause of problems with the power steering pump.

All that we may need in the upcoming work is this!

alcohol (preferably White Spirit, also known as thinner gasoline or a can of WD40 liquid);
sandpaper (from P2000 to P1000);
cloth or soft paint brush;
small file or file;
electric drill;

We use sandpaper to clean the seats of the rotor blades.

The cleaning of the rotor is reduced to the elimination of irregularities and burrs of the grooves, as well as to the grinding of the surface of the rotor.

It is better to work with gloves, as the edges of the rotor are very sharp. Try to keep the movements smooth and even for a smoother grinding.
There is no consensus on how to grind the inner surface of the stator. If you have enough patience and time, you can try to align manually.

The algorithm is this:

First, we make a rough cleaning with a needle file, then we smooth it with large sandpaper and bring it to mind with sandpaper.

It is easier to adapt an electric drill using a drill and sandpaper. You will get a kind of mini-grinding machine by wrapping sandpaper on a drill with a diameter of at least 12 mm (against the rotation of the drill). When grinding with a self-made unit, one should try to evenly distribute the load over the entire surface, not zealous and not forgetting to change the skin from large to very small.

Using a drill and sandpaper, we eliminate the unevenness of the stator surface.

Having finished with grinding, we will bring the power steering pump to its original working condition. Performing the assembly process in reverse order, it would be useful to first check whether the shaft inside the pump itself rotates easily.

The final touch will be the installation of the cover in place, with the preliminary installation of a new seal. During the assembly process, the cover is easily tightened with four bolts. Which are best pulled crosswise, thereby achieving a uniform, precise fit of the cover plane to the stator.

Here the pump is now again in the state of new. However, it will still be quite a long time before you have to repeat this procedure again!

Watch the video lesson of self-repair of the power steering pump.

Watch a video tutorial on how the power steering system works.

Many motorists repair the power steering pump with their own hands. This work is required quite often, because this element is constantly under load. Accordingly, even a high-quality pump fails quickly enough. Thus, self-repair skills are a must for every driver. This will significantly save on car maintenance. At a minimum, a person should be able to replace a broken belt. In principle, all breakdowns are easily eliminated, and this does not require special qualifications. All work is done with the set of tools that is in every garage.

Do-it-yourself power steering pump repair, is not a difficult job. This simplicity is due to the design features. By itself, the hydraulic booster is a closed hydraulic system. It consists of the following elements:

A tank, liquids are filled through it (see the article “What is poured into the power steering”);
Control spool;
Pressure regulator;
Pump;
Power cylinder.

The most important element is the pump, it is he who drives the liquid through the looped pipeline. The most commonly used are vane or vane pumps. They are quite productive, and are practically not subject to wear. Problems can only arise with the bearing.

The pump is driven by a belt drive from the crankshaft pulley. During operation, a maximum pressure of 150 bar is reached. An important indicator is the clearances in the pump. They are set in the range of 0.05-0.1 mm. With wear, this indicator may change, while there is a feeling of "tight steering".

As mentioned above, the pumps used in hydraulic boosters are quite reliable. But, if not used correctly, they can fail. Also, breakdowns are facilitated by a long service life, in which case the natural wear of the assembly parts affects. To extend the life of the unit, it is necessary to monitor the following indicators:

Prompt fluid replacement. During operation, it loses its technical characteristics. This leads to an increased load on the pump;
Fluid leaks and lack of its level;
The lack of fluid movement causes the pump to overheat. Appears when driving with the engine turned off;
System pollution.

To avoid problems with the hydraulic booster, be sure to check the fluid level in the reservoir at least once a week. Also inspect all connections for damage and leaks. Be sure to change the hydraulic fluid within the time specified by the manufacturer. When topping up, use only high-quality fluid recommended for use on your car.

When a pump malfunctions, it is important to identify the problem in a timely manner and correct it. After all, trips with a problematic power steering can lead to wear of the steering mechanism, and this is not to mention a decrease in driving comfort. You need to be alert for the following signs:

At idle or at low speed, there are problems with turning the steering wheel, it is much more difficult to turn it. At the same time, at high speeds, the problem disappears;
A fluid leak appears, it can be found on the engine, on the pavement;
When turning the steering wheel, unpleasant sounds appear;
The bearing begins to whistle or howl. When the belt is removed, you can find the play of the pulley.

Video (click to play).

As soon as one of these signs appears in your car, you need to inspect the hydraulic booster and take measures to fix the problem.

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