Do-it-yourself gas 3110 power steering repair

View of the mechanism from the side of the steering shaft:

Unscrew 4 bolts, cover up. The shaft with the piston is disengaged from the bipod shaft:

We twist the piston on the shaft, it is removed. We collect the scattered balls. Remove the guide.

This is the bearing under the cover:

This is a disassembled cover. The spring ring can be removed with screwdrivers. The oil seal can be changed.

This is the steering shaft with the piston removed. In the photo it is broken. The holes of the spool pair are visible, through which the liquid is passed under pressure. The holes overlap when the shaft is turned. Accuracy of fit is the key to successful work. On one of my mechanisms, these shafts were barely spinning. Ease of turning is important.

Inside is a torsion bar not shown. A regular steel bar fixed to the shaft with two pins. In position “0” it keeps the steering wheel from free rotation. If you apply force to the steering wheel, it twists by 3.5 degrees (to each side, only 7 degrees), and then the shaft turns and the fluid is bypassed for reinforcement. At the same time, when the torsion bar is twisted, a valve (under a small ball, not shown) opens. At "zero" the ball comes back.

Bipod shaft cover removed: The seal is crushed by the lock nut. And the pressure is there, hoo! The thread on the stop bolt is reversed. This bolt for an internal hexagon adjusts the engagement of the piston-shaft of the bipod.

Bipod shaft. On the side of the cone under the bipod, there should still be a dirt-reflecting polyethylene washer (just put on the shaft from the outside).

Bearing-oil seal from the edge of the mechanism case:

This is how the bipod shaft and the piston engage:

Type pa bearing-oil seal internal. Because of it, "Volgovodsk suffering" usually occurs.

The rudder shaft is inserted into this hole. If you keep everything neatly, you can plant it without removing the back cover. In appearance, the rings and bearing are the same as those in the front cover.

Back cover. It adjusts the longitudinal shaft of the steering shaft. A bit broken. After adjustment, it is necessary to drill it along the grooves in the mechanism body.

Well, and a view of the details "in general":

Well, after all, it works successfully on my machine.

As far as I understood this whole mechanics - constant pressure is maintained in the system. At zero, the neutral position between the contours is maintained. If you slightly reopen the holes on the spool to the right and left, the pressure in one of the cavities begins to grow - and moves the piston accordingly. Schemes and descriptions are not scarce on the Internet.

For the same reason that I refuse to supply gas to people - it's dumb. Himself - no questions. Climbing into the brakes or steering wheel in someone else's car is somehow.

According to the stories of people with a “suddenly” failed gur, the car becomes uncontrollable. I think there is a fright. Suddenly the steering wheel spun from the draft and then - bam! One hundred tons of effort and not spinning! Those who drove unlubricated pivots and a regular steering will not be scared at all.

Also, the services work according to approved standards and technologies provided by the manufacturer or whoever else is there. And our manufacturer stupidly wrote - “don't even think about repairs! buy a new marriage from us for 500 bucksoffs "

Yes, as always to the point!
It was the other way around for me. After changing his deadly pivots, the month went as with a power steering. I was afraid to sit behind a foreign car, I thought that the steering wheel was not bolted to the wheels

With regard to the change of the ZCH. In such delicate mechanisms as steering, any intervention by the plant acre is considered as a defective repair. That's why they wrote what to change without getting inside the mechanism. In principle, correct, because, for example, we do not change the friction material on the brake pads when they wear out.This completely and completely affects the safety of the car.
And “defective” new spare parts are another story.

In principle, correct, because, for example, we do not change the friction material on the brake pads when they wear out.
I - changed with clients

For myself - I buy ready-made. It's easier.

The trick is that the bourgeoisie sell freely RK to the power steering and to the GTZ and to the rest of the hydraulics. And do not sweat. The boys are sorting out on their knees and driving around.

The position of the plant in relation to its products is understandable. The thing is exact. On the spool pair there are some inscriptions in Roman numerals. At least some trained personnel, equipment.

What for them complaints from some cool service, licensed dealer, in which they work, roughly, PTUsniki. And services do not need this either.

And I somehow unexpectedly (well, almost unexpectedly - after hitting the Zhiguli) the power steering refused. In a Mercedes. After the impact, the car turned 45 degrees, maybe a little less, towards the side of the road. So I could not return the car to its previous course with a sharp movement of the steering wheel, so I drove over the curb to the side of the road. Well, the steering wheel has become very inertial. There is no way to turn it abruptly.

For comparison, recently I was driving on the Volga without a power steering, with unlubricated pivots, and suddenly BMW threw itself out of the doorway under the wheels. At some 10 meters I managed to go to the oncoming lane and return from there

So ninada say that I'm not a magician to steer

Several times the power steering refused to find me - almost all the failures were associated with a torn belt - the first time the belt broke when I didn’t even own my 02 for a week - I crap clearly)))))) since then I’m not afraid anymore. Once in a turn downhill, the engine stalled (the car was driving in neutral) - it also gave me a few adrenaline seconds - I thought I would fit into the post and not into the turn. But the power steering is still better than the electric amplifier Kalina or Priora - which, due to glitches in electronics, spontaneously work - there are reviews of the affected owners, an article in the ZR and even a story of one friend on this topic.
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I missed the oil in the expansion tank a couple of times. Somewhere every year the power steering pump tries to start humming. I save his life with an additive for GUR XADO - it really helps - the buzz gradually fades away - the working capacity is restored.

Maybe you have a variable steering wheel there? I do not know how they work, I will not argue

After 10 reviews of the pictures, I realized that I did not understand why the balls are in the piston and where do they move? on the steering shaft worm? and what is their function?

Added after 6 minutes 44 seconds:
Everything arrived - when I saw a picture from the next topic “Oil leaks from the power steering” Is it like a spiral bearing? and the balls move in a spiral, and through a tube with a rocker, return to their original position? got it right?

From donor 🙁 Does not go to spare parts. Plus, it is recommended to install it with a check at the stand.

I would have raked them in reserve on occasion - but they won't.

When overhauling, do not lose the small ball on the valve near the torsion bar - otherwise nothing else is needed.

The torsion bar burst due to the torn upper oil seal of the bipod. The lip of the oil seal was completely torn off and pulled out together with the bipod shaft when disassembling the mechanism. It happened somewhere in the 15th thousand after the weight of the steering wheel to the left side. And still hissed.

Feels like after the trawl - zero disappeared, there was a free wheeling of 30 degrees. If you push the steering wheel and do not hold it, it spins itself up to the maximum. Especially to the right

You can ride. The steering wheel is light, unrealistic, but not accurate, since the wheels have a life of their own. I got used to it in a week, even the discomfort almost disappeared. And so - two months of daily driving.

Sunday. The reducer went into the bulkhead. Two fluoroplastic oil seals were machined from the following pattern:

Rubber rings are inserted inside as shown. The oil seals stood up without question, with a normal interference, and tightly covered the bipod on both necks.

Then, with a torsion bar that was freshly bought for 40 bucks, everything is assembled.The whole class, but from the two positions of the spool pair (correct and incorrect), I chose the wrong one (I just did not pay attention) and so I collected everything.

The whistling belt when the engine is running somehow began to hint that I was wrong. I do not care, I said, we are pumping! I looked at the pump hints only after its active smoke from overheating. The pressure hose is like your tree, but there was no outlet for the liquid, because of this the pump belt squealed, since the entire volume of liquid did not have time to really run through the pressure relief valves inside.

By that time, my car had fallen off the jacks, knocking the left door inward, as I was actively climbing the fenders and sitting under the hood. Otherwise, how to get to the pumping valve? By the way, she banged me a week later again, making another hole next to it in the same door

The pump belt was removed and for the next week I drove with a gearbox filled with liquid, respectively, without reinforcement. Torture with a car, what else to look for, I confess. The torsion bar burst on Monday, although he was not obliged to do so, since the half rings of the steering shaft, in theory, should insure it against excessive twisting. Well, no, no, maybe I'm a ram. Maybe it doesn’t have to work dry, which is why it broke.

Another gearbox arrived on Friday and also a .100. September 2003. Disassembly showed that it is different from mine. In general, this mutant is no different from .103. But for some reason it is called differently.

- the identification data is drawn on a riveted plate, and not embossed on the body from the side of the spar, as before (the photo is not mine);

- screw caps on a turnkey basis for 17 and not 13 as in the "Old Believer", plus solid - 8.8;

- there is no ball fixing the spool, instead of it the pin is hammered;

- the piston has (at a glance) a thicker fluoroplastic ring, and the ball guide is closed with a plastic cover;

- the notorious bipod oil seal is hard as a stone (according to the information inside Teflon), does not have a spring ring and is separated from the roller bearing by an ordinary metal ring (i.e. it is not rigidly fixed by two steel holders as before). The gland height is 5.8 mm.

In general, no ailments were found in the new patient. From alterations - rearrange the steering wheel on the splines. The pump is alive

Still - not hiss, scoundrel. Somehow nice so.

In the stock in the car there was a power steering ... well, it would be better if it did not exist at all. The power steering gearbox was from the very first issue SHNKF 453465.100.

Problems with the power steering system were from the first day of owning a car ... the pump changed 3 times ... the power steering went over 1 time ... running ahead I will say that this gearbox did not work out before replacing it in only 2 weeks and flowed

There was an idea to buy this power steering kit from Avtodetalservice avtodetal.com/index.php?section=282
Here is a review from the person who bought and installed it for himself
But I never managed to buy it ... at least because of its cost in Ukraine. a little more than 5000 hryvnia and this is for Russian details ...

Well, since I didn't manage to buy everything at once ... I decided to take a more time-consuming and correct path.

I did not collect much of the following details:

1. A bu from the Volga 31105 was bought by the reducer of the power steering SHNKF 453461.103 link to those characteristics

2. Power steering pump bracket from the Autodetalservice kit

3. Power steering pump from a Chevrolet Niva car, part number by catalog 2123-3407012.

4. I bought a copper tube with a diameter of 13 mm, from which they bent an oily radiator for the power steering system

5. I made a pulley of the required diameter, since I could not find a finished one.

I also bought additional hoses, metal corrugation, copper washers, adapter, clamps ...

The purchased used power steering gearbox from the 105th Volga was sent for revision to the masters in the hydrolab in Moscow (my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3321/price1.shtml)
This revision cost 3500 RR. rub. in principle, I have no complaints about them yet, but these guys did not return the bipod and cardan that were on the gearbox ...

Came in this form from Moscow

Stage 1 Installation of the power steering radiator:
Radiator made of 13mm copper tube. put in place of the oil cooler.I bought good quality hoses and laid them in an iron corrugation so that the hoses do not fray or bend.
The radiator is placed in the drain line from the gearbox to the expansion tank.

The radiator is fixed, the pipes are connected.

Stage 2 Preparing the pump for installation:
Here I faced a choice for a long time: whether to take from a Volkswagen, BMW, Audi or from a Chevrolet Niva

On the left is the pump from the Audi A6 to the right of the Chevrolet Niva ... this photo clearly shows that they are very similar. there are differences in the angles of the hoses ...

But when choosing a pump, I ran into a number of problems. Firstly, the stock pressure of the Belarusian pump is 90 bar, for the Audi and BMW 120 bar, for the Niva 104 bar. I did not dare to take a pump with such a high working pressure ... Secondly, the cost of a good pump exceeds UAH 3000, Chinese counterparts and other fakes are no better than a Russian pump, but more expensive ... As a result, I settled on a pump from a Chevrolet Niva part number by catalog 2123-3407012

To install this pump on the 406th motor, you need a bracket such as in the second photo from above.

The pump from the Chevrolet Niva is sold without a pulley. And the stock pulley from this car will not work for us, because it is of a larger diameter and for a 5-strand belt. It is necessary to order a pulley from a turner. It was not possible to find a ready-made one. I think that no one will sell it separately for analysis ... the new ones, judging by the Exist, prices from 300 UAH. The work on the manufacture of the pulley + materials cost 190 UAH.

And one more problem ... The bolt with which the high pressure pipe is screwed to the pump in the drain is 10 mm., And in the pump there is a hole for the bolt by 12 mm. An adapter from one thread to another is needed ... I managed to find one on the market ... but the thing is very rare ...

Pump complete with bracket, pulley and adapter ... ready-made design for installation on an internal combustion engine

Stage 3 Removing the gearbox and bipod from the gearbox,
more details here

When I removed the old gearbox ... you need to remove the bipod from it, which needs to be installed on the new gearbox ... those who have done this at least once will understand that this procedure is more complicated than the process of removing the gearbox itself.

To facilitate this process, one familiar volgovod in the bowels of the service station found a mega puller.

A puller that is larger than the gearbox itself. And even for them it was not easy to remove the bipod ...

Stage 4 Installing the power steering system back to the car:
Well, here it’s nothing complicated ... as they say in reverse order ... Although there are sides here too ... namely, with the power steering pump.

When dismantling the power steering pump mounting bracket and installing a new one, it is necessary to unscrew the engine mount and raise the motor, otherwise it is not possible to unscrew one bolt of the bracket mounting. Well, after installing the pump, we return the engine to its place.

Then we pour high-quality oil into the system and pump it over ... I had such a foam in the tank for 10 minutes of engine operation.

Eventually:
Everything works, but ... the new pump howls and hums ... both at XX and at rpm ... especially annoying at 2500 rpm.

The best part: the gearbox does not hiss, there is a feedback on the steering wheel ...

The power steering pump is installed from the Audi A4, but not the original, but an Italian analogue of production MSG catalog number VV001
It had to be finalized ... I had to cut one of the mounting lugs on the pump, because it did not stand on the bracket, this ear is not on the Shnivov pump! In general, they did not give me a guarantee for the new pump due to the fact that it was so tuned.
After replacing the pump, the impressions are very positive:
1. I was afraid that an increase in pressure (120 bar, in contrast to Shnivov's 104 bar) will cause problems when taxiing ... but everything is ok. I will even say that with a Russian pump the steering wheel became heavier after warming up ... with this, the effort does not increase after warming up.
2. At any speed above 1100, the pump is not audible ... UH ... buzz ...

But on XX, you can hear the pump humming

I am currently looking for solutions to this issue ... so wait for a new update.

I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.

The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly.But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!

In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.

And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.

After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...

Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.

All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.

We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.

Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.

We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.

The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.

We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.

For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.

Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.

The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.

Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.

Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).

Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.

The desired result is obtained,

now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.

After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.

Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.

Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start?

1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.

2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).

3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.

4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.

5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.

6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.

7. Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen from the side of the wheel arch three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member, removing two of them.

8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.

9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.

10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.

11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.

Many experts strongly recommend re-reading the articles on power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are disassembled almost completely, with the exception of the pair "ball nut - steering shaft screw", others - it is better not to touch. Although even if you accidentally unscrew the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them.

Steps for repairing the power steering:

1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon at “6”, as well as a regular old tray, into which ATF will start to merge.

2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering over the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.

3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts set on the fixing mastic, and therefore it is rather difficult to unscrew.

4. Unscrew the adjusting screw locknut, and then, turning the screw, screw it into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.

5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the collar, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.

6. Remove the spring and shake out the valve.

7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the body. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.

8. Pry up the formed gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and the piston out of the gearbox.

9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.

10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.

11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball duct channel.

12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the power steering backlash: the gaps in the shaft-ball nut pair, in the shaft bearing unit (in the cover), as well as in the ball nut bearing unit in the piston housing itself.

13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal weakening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If a backlash is found in the shaft-cap assembly, then release the locknut and tighten it so that the backlash disappears, but without fanaticism.Do not forget to carry out the "operation" clean, that is, the cleaned part should shine.

If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be lazy to get detailed drawings of the power steering or take sheets of paper and put each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you will definitely not lose anything and collect the power steering without mistakes, but they do not joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.

14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATFkoy.

Good luck, motorists, in repairing the power steering!