Still - not hiss, scoundrel. Somehow nice so.
In the stock in the car there was a power steering ... well, it would be better if it did not exist at all. The power steering gearbox was from the very first issue SHNKF 453465.100.
Problems with the power steering system were from the first day of owning a car ... the pump changed 3 times ... the power steering went over 1 time ... running ahead I will say that this gearbox did not work out before replacing it in only 2 weeks and flowed
There was an idea to buy this power steering kit from Avtodetalservice avtodetal.com/index.php?section=282
Well, since I didn't manage to buy everything at once ... I decided to take a more time-consuming and correct path.
I did not collect much of the following details:
1. A bu from the Volga 31105 was bought by the reducer of the power steering SHNKF 453461.103 link to those characteristics
2. Power steering pump bracket from the Autodetalservice kit
3. Power steering pump from a Chevrolet Niva car, part number by catalog 2123-3407012.
4. I bought a copper tube with a diameter of 13 mm, from which they bent an oily radiator for the power steering system
5. I made a pulley of the required diameter, since I could not find a finished one.
I also bought additional hoses, metal corrugation, copper washers, adapter, clamps ...
The purchased used power steering gearbox from the 105th Volga was sent for revision to the masters in the hydrolab in Moscow (my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/3321/price1.shtml)
Came in this form from Moscow
Stage 1 Installation of the power steering radiator:
The radiator is fixed, the pipes are connected.
Stage 2 Preparing the pump for installation:
On the left is the pump from the Audi A6 to the right of the Chevrolet Niva ... this photo clearly shows that they are very similar. there are differences in the angles of the hoses ...
But when choosing a pump, I ran into a number of problems. Firstly, the stock pressure of the Belarusian pump is 90 bar, for the Audi and BMW 120 bar, for the Niva 104 bar. I did not dare to take a pump with such a high working pressure ... Secondly, the cost of a good pump exceeds UAH 3000, Chinese counterparts and other fakes are no better than a Russian pump, but more expensive ... As a result, I settled on a pump from a Chevrolet Niva part number by catalog 2123-3407012
To install this pump on the 406th motor, you need a bracket such as in the second photo from above.
The pump from the Chevrolet Niva is sold without a pulley. And the stock pulley from this car will not work for us, because it is of a larger diameter and for a 5-strand belt. It is necessary to order a pulley from a turner. It was not possible to find a ready-made one. I think that no one will sell it separately for analysis ... the new ones, judging by the Exist, prices from 300 UAH. The work on the manufacture of the pulley + materials cost 190 UAH.
And one more problem ... The bolt with which the high pressure pipe is screwed to the pump in the drain is 10 mm., And in the pump there is a hole for the bolt by 12 mm. An adapter from one thread to another is needed ... I managed to find one on the market ... but the thing is very rare ...
Pump complete with bracket, pulley and adapter ... ready-made design for installation on an internal combustion engine
Stage 3 Removing the gearbox and bipod from the gearbox,
When I removed the old gearbox ... you need to remove the bipod from it, which needs to be installed on the new gearbox ... those who have done this at least once will understand that this procedure is more complicated than the process of removing the gearbox itself.
To facilitate this process, one familiar volgovod in the bowels of the service station found a mega puller.
A puller that is larger than the gearbox itself. And even for them it was not easy to remove the bipod ...
Stage 4 Installing the power steering system back to the car:
When dismantling the power steering pump mounting bracket and installing a new one, it is necessary to unscrew the engine mount and raise the motor, otherwise it is not possible to unscrew one bolt of the bracket mounting. Well, after installing the pump, we return the engine to its place.
Then we pour high-quality oil into the system and pump it over ... I had such a foam in the tank for 10 minutes of engine operation.
Eventually:
The best part: the gearbox does not hiss, there is a feedback on the steering wheel ...
The power steering pump is installed from the Audi A4, but not the original, but an Italian analogue of production MSG catalog number VV001
But on XX, you can hear the pump humming
I am currently looking for solutions to this issue ... so wait for a new update.
I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly.But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.
Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start?
1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.
2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).
3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.
4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.
5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.
6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.
7. Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen from the side of the wheel arch three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member, removing two of them.
8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.
9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.
10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.
11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.
VIDEO Many experts strongly recommend re-reading the articles on power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are disassembled almost completely, with the exception of the pair "ball nut - steering shaft screw", others - it is better not to touch. Although even if you accidentally unscrew the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them.
Steps for repairing the power steering:
1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon at “6”, as well as a regular old tray, into which ATF will start to merge.
2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering over the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.
3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts set on the fixing mastic, and therefore it is rather difficult to unscrew.
4. Unscrew the adjusting screw locknut, and then, turning the screw, screw it into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.
5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the collar, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.
6. Remove the spring and shake out the valve.
7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the body. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.
8. Pry up the formed gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and the piston out of the gearbox.
9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.
10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.
11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball duct channel.
12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the power steering backlash: the gaps in the shaft-ball nut pair, in the shaft bearing unit (in the cover), as well as in the ball nut bearing unit in the piston housing itself.
13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal weakening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If a backlash is found in the shaft-cap assembly, then release the locknut and tighten it so that the backlash disappears, but without fanaticism.Do not forget to carry out the "operation" clean, that is, the cleaned part should shine.
If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be lazy to get detailed drawings of the power steering or take sheets of paper and put each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you will definitely not lose anything and collect the power steering without mistakes, but they do not joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.
14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATFkoy.
Good luck, motorists, in repairing the power steering!
VIDEO
The following malfunctions were identified during the actual operation of the power steering systems on Volga 3110 and 3102 vehicles.
These malfunctions mainly relate to the power steering units themselves. Front suspension malfunctions are not mentioned. Some more malfunctions of the steering and information on the power steering device are given in the brochure "Steering of GAZ-3110 and GAZ-3102 with a hydraulic booster", Koleso publishing house, Moscow, 2000.
When using materials from the site, an indication of the original necessarily !
The GAZ 3110 power steering is a system consisting of three main components:
Power steering pump.
Reservoir for power steering fluid.
Steering gear, which consists of a pinion and a rack.
The hydraulic pressure in the system is generated by a vane-type power steering pump. The system pump itself drives the motor; inside the fluid flow control valve, there is a pressure reduction valve that limits the pump pressure.
Also in the steering gear there is a rotary control valve, it directs the fluid that goes from the power steering pump to the piston of the steering gear rack. The piston and rack are integral parts of the steering gear. The rack piston converts fluid pressure into a linear force that moves the rack to the right and left.
This force is then transferred through the steering rods and their ends to the steering cams, which directly turn the wheels.
bracket;
directly the tank;
its fastening clamp;
hose clamps;
low pressure hose (outlet);
high pressure hose (injection);
bolt fitting;
adjusting nut;
RM;
lid;
adjusting screw;
cardan joint;
sealant;
lock-nut;
bipod;
bracket for the pump;
the pump itself;
drive belt;
suction hose.
One very annoying nuisance can upset any motorist - this is the breakdown of a device such as a power steering. The first signs of a malfunction - the steering became very tight, there was a strange hum when cornering. Also, with a detailed examination, you can find leaks on the system components, along with a simultaneous drop in the liquid level in the power steering tank.
The steering booster can break for a number of reasons. Let's list them:
in case of temperature changes, especially in winter, under load during sharp turns, the oil seal can be squeezed out, therefore, it is impossible to leave the car overnight with turned out wheels in winter;
also, due to low temperatures under pressure, one of the system hoses may leak;
untimely replacement of the power steering fluid, or filling the wrong fluid sometimes lead to serious damage to the system pump.
VIDEO
Next, we will study in detail how to repair the power steering on your car. Let's take a few famous cars as an example.
Often, motorists have to repair the power steering pump. They are faced with this, because, for example, they do not monitor the fluid level in the power steering reservoir in time.
Consider how to repair the power steering system pump with your own hands. For the benchmark, let's take a car like a Mercedes.
wrenches;
screwdrivers;
cleaning auto chemistry.
We unscrew the fastenings of the pump pulley, dismantle the pulley.
We dismantle the low and high pressure pipes from the assembly, drain the liquid.
Having unscrewed two fasteners of the bracket, dismantle the pump. If it is covered with oily deposits, the packing is obviously worn out.
We clean the body of the removed assembly.
Having unscrewed the bolts, dismantle the front cover.
In the course of repairing this pump, we will dismember it.
We take out the retaining ring without losing the rotor petals, and also remove the rotor from the shaft.
We take out the shaft and clean it.
We remove the oil seal, replace it with a new one.
At the rear of the pump, dismantle the float level, take out the filter, and clean it.
Replace the tank lid gasket.
We assemble in the reverse order.
This part of Mercedes power steering repair is the most important. We order a repair kit with an oil seal from the sellers according to the pump number.
Perhaps the car enthusiast had a chance to repair the power steering pump of the Passat B3. Then you need to act in a similar way. To dismantle the pulley, you can use a special puller here. And the repair kit is also selected according to the identification number of the pump.
Also read about replacing lamps in Priora fog lights and Opel Astra coolant temperature sensor.
VIDEO We cut the hose, substitute the container, cut off a centimeter of the defective area.
We insert the copper tube inside both ends of the hose.
We tighten with clamps.
Add power steering fluid.
Here is such a simple sequence can be applied when repairing the hoses of the power steering system.
The power steering system has long been used on all foreign cars. Domestic cars are no exception. For example, the Volga GAZ 3110 has this unit. We will figure out how to repair the hydraulic booster of a GAZ 3110.
For work we need:
wrenches;
universal puller;
screwdrivers;
detergent for a car engine;
rags, brush.
We jack up the car, remove the wheel.
We dismantle the bipod from the gearbox using a puller.
Having unscrewed the fittings, we drain the liquid from both lines.
Disconnect the steering column gimbal.
Having unscrewed the fasteners, we dismantle the gearbox.
We thoroughly rinse its body.
We unscrew the nut for adjusting the backlash and fastening the cover.
We unscrew the adjusting screw, remove the cover.
Next, dismantle the piston shaft cover, draining the remaining oil.
We remove the piston and bipod shaft.
We replace the frequently failing upper shaft seal.
On the other hand, we replace the lower oil seal.
We change the shaft rings.
We change the piston shaft oil seal.
We make the assembly, moving backward step by step.
Here, when ordering a repair kit from sellers, you must also be careful with the marking of the gearbox.
Interestingly, the hydraulic booster mechanism appeared on domestic machines back in the days of the Soviet Union. More specifically, the described device was used on the ZIL-130 for military purposes.
Further, for the sake of interest, we will consider the repair of the power steering, the repair of the power steering of the ZIL-130. We need these things:
set of wrenches;
screwdrivers;
puller;
hammer;
cleaning agent.
We unscrew the nut, then remove the bipod with a puller.
We unscrew the plug with a magnet, pour out all the oil.
Disconnect the hoses, drain the remaining liquid.
Having unpinned, unscrewing the nut and knocking out the wedge, disconnect the steering shaft universal joint.
Having unscrewed the bolts, we remove the mechanism crankcase from the car.
We thoroughly clean the body of the device.
We dismantle the side and top covers by unscrewing the fasteners.
Unscrewing the bolts, we take out the control valve body together with the piston rack.
Installing a new part.
We assemble in the reverse order.
It should be noted here that on more powerful trucks, even tractors, a similar type of amplification device is installed. Therefore, when repairing hydraulic boosters, for example, Kamaz, you can act according to the above scenario.
The same goes for the well-known domestic SUV. On UAZ Hunter, you can repair the power steering, based on the instructions given.
And when repairing the power steering of a T40 tractor with your own hands, you must remember that when disassembling the piston, you need to proceed as follows.
We sink the rear nut pin.
We unscrew the nut, remove it together with the spring washer.
We push out the screw of the mechanism.
We remove the spool with stops and springs.
All these works are carried out, of course, already on the removed assembly. And its complete dismantling from the tractor is carried out according to instructions similar to the one just described for the ZIL-130 truck. In general, the T40 power steering is designed in a similar way to the mechanisms described earlier, so repairing it based on previous descriptions should not cause any particular problems.
Video (click to play).
After all of the above, it may seem that it is quite difficult to repair the power steering with your own hands. This is indeed the case. Consequently, motorists are more likely to address this problem to the masters of repair stations.
