DIY power steering repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the power steering by a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In this article, we will consider the repair and the principle of operation of the car's hydraulic booster.

When the truck is moving, the spool is in the neutral position. Power steering fluid enters the cylinder through the pressure line. The oil is then fed through the drain channel. The thrust is not affected.

One has only to turn the steering wheel of the truck in any direction, and the spool is out of balance. The liquid from the discharge channel is transferred into the cylinder cavity.

The wheels turn due to the action of the longitudinal-transverse rods and trunnions. If you stop turning the steering wheel, the spool will return to neutral. The MAZ hydraulic booster will turn off.

For your personal safety, it is important to remember:

It is unacceptable to drive a truck for a long time with an inoperative hydraulic booster;
If the mechanism fails during movement, it is recommended to move at a speed of no more than 20 km / h.
If the hydraulic booster does not work, it will not interfere with transporting a truck with a faulty engine. You will have to turn the steering wheel with great effort.

Gear compressors provide the required fluid pressure. If the engine is running, the pressure pump supplies oil to the MAZ hydraulic booster.

If the car is moving in a straight line, the fluid flow does not act on the cylinder. A bypass valve is provided to control the amount of pumped liquid. The mechanism is also used to adjust the system pressure.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the common signs of breakdown:

Spontaneous wheel rotation;
Recoil on the steering wheel on rough roads;
To move in a straight line, you have to constantly steer;
Turning the steering wheel, you need to apply tangible physical effort.

Video (click to play).

In the first case, the condition of the spool and related mechanisms is checked. Recoil could appear due to air ingress. The oil and cleaning filters are also checked.

Steering is usually required if the wheels are loose. The mechanisms that make up the spool could also wear out. Replacing the screw pairs and jet plungers will fix everything.

Oil leakage and air bubbles interfere with the operation of the mechanism. If the steering wheel turns hard, check the fluid level in the reservoir.

Serious problems arise when air enters the MAZ hydraulic booster. In this case, pumping is performed. The car is driven onto a lift.

Pumping is done at minimum speed. The bypass valve is opened / closed alternately. The steering wheel is turned to the extreme right and then to the left.

By opening the bypass valve, air is released. The procedure is repeated more than once. Full air outlet from the MAZ hydraulic booster is provided.

The mechanism must be repaired at a specialized center.

However, if you decide to replace the MAZ power steering yourself, be careful.

In some cases, it is easier to buy a new movement.

The pump disassembly procedure is as follows:

fix the pump to the movable bracket 10 in a vice (Fig. 53);
disconnect the tube 4 from the flow and pressure valve body 3;
remove the flow and pressure valve and the suction branch pipe 9 from the pump 2;
mark the position of the pulley 15 relative to the pump housing;
unscrew the nuts and disconnect the pump from the fixed bracket 6, noting the position of the pump shaft splines relative to the previously applied mark on the pump housing;
remove the circlip 14 and press out the hub 11 with the pulley 1 from the bearings 13;
remove the circlip 12, and then the bearings from the movable bracket 10;
unscrew plug 1 (Fig. 270);
remove plunger 5 and spring 3 from the body;
fix the plunger 5 to the non-working surface (it is unacceptable to fix it along the outer diameter);
unscrew the plug 7;
remove the ball 4 and spring 8 with a guide.

After disassembly, you need to check the condition of the parts. The end surfaces of the pump bushings and gears, the working surface of the plunger 5 should not have noticeable scoring, ring 5 (Fig. 271), oil seal 5 and gaskets - damage. Damage to the grooves of the pulley, cracks on the brackets of the tensioner are not allowed.

The pump should be assembled in the following order:

fix the plunger 5 (Fig. 270);
put in place the spring 8 of the guide, the ball 4, the plug 7 with adjusting shims;
adjust the opening pressure of the ball in a special device with adjusting shims. If, before disassembly, there was no sharp increase in the effort on the steering wheel when turning the wheels in place, then this adjustment can be omitted; replace the plunger with spring 3 and screw on the plug 1;
install bearings 13 (Fig. 53) in a movable bracket and secure with a retaining ring;
press hub 15 with pulley 1 into bearings 13 and install circlip 12;
pour 50 cm3 of MT-1b oil into the movable bracket 10 so that the oil fills the cavity of the hub;
connect pump 2 (aligning the marks applied during disassembly) to the movable bracket 10, after installing the gasket;
reinstall the flow and pressure valve and connect the suction pipe to the pump;
connect the pipe 4.

How pump the power steering by car

Power steering is a necessary device for any truck, which greatly facilitates driving. If the hydraulic booster is faulty, then any turn of the steering wheel requires a lot of effort. It seems to be a small mechanism, but how it facilitates the work of the driver.

How pump power steering, as well as what it is for, and is described in this article.

Power steering is a hydraulic system that is part of the steering mechanism and makes it easier to control the machine.

stable preservation of a given direction;
reduction in labor costs that the driver makes to change the direction of the wheels;
the presence of a stable connection between the steering wheel and the wheels.

Power steering includes the following systems and elements:

a distributor responsible for controlling the flow of liquid in the tanks of the system;
a hydraulic cylinder, which is responsible for converting the fluid pressure into the well-coordinated work of the rod and piston;
a pump that is designed to maintain the set pressure and movement of the fluid;
power steering fluid;
connection hoses unite system parts;
the electronic unit regulates the operation of the hydraulic booster.

How pump the power steering, we will describe below, but for now we will consider some typical malfunctions and solutions for the GRU system:

1. Unstable movement of the car on the track, it is required to periodically correct the direction of the car by additional movements of the steering wheel.

Probable causes and solutions:

the presence of free play of the steering wheel if it exceeds the permissible threshold, then adjustment is required;
wear of the elements of the screw pair of the steering device, if wear is present, then the screw pair must be replaced.

2. Damage to the pump filter, or littering: air has entered the hydraulic system, signs of this fact: turbid oil and the presence of foam in the tank. To solve the problem, it is necessary to flush and bleed the system, then change the filter.

This part of the article will discuss how to pump the power steering on a KAMAZ. Air that remains in the hydraulic system after the oil change procedure can cause the power steering to not work properly. To properly bleed the system, you need to do the following:

In this video we will show you how to remove air from the system.

The material for this video is now available on our new information blog, which is dedicated to renovation.

using a jack, fix the front wheels of the car in the air;

unscrew the allowance valve, which is located on the steering gear;

turn the steering wheel all the way to the left;

fill the pump with new oil;

start the engine and fill the tank with oil at the lowest speed power steering until air bubbles disappear from the hoses;

fix the inlet valve to the steering gear;

turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, then return to the left and again loosen the inlet valve for air outlet, and screw it back;

carry out the last described procedure until the moment when clean oil starts to come out of the valve.

How pump the hydraulic booster the steering wheel on the "Gazelle", we will describe below, but for now we will consider the process of replacing the power steering fluid.The fluid in the power steering system needs to be changed when it gets dirty, as well as after six years of using the machine. How can you perform this simple procedure?

The first step is to unscrew the pressure hose that leads to the steering device, while keeping the nut from turning.

It is required to bleed fluid from the power steering system without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel to the right and left until it stops until the fluid from the pressure hose stops flowing out. Then reattach the hose to the pump.

Fill the system with fresh liquid.

Start the engine. At this time, the liquid will leave and be distributed throughout the system. Fill the system with liquid until the level reaches the same level.

Pump over the power steering system.

The fluid in the power steering is a PSF oil intended for power steering.Power steering fluid must have the following properties:

operating temperature of the oil 110 degrees C;

the presence of additives to improve the quality of work under pressure;

constant viscosity at various loads;

lack of foam;

rust prevention.

Bleeding the power steering system on a Gazelle car is required in the following cases:

when air enters the system;

after repairs, which were accompanied by depressurization of the system.

Procedure for removing air from the system:

Fill the system power steering working fluid.

Fix the handbrake in the upper position, place brake stops under the rear wheels of the machine. Raise the front of the machine.

Set the steering wheel to the straight position. Start the engine.

Turn the steering wheel to the right side until it stops. At this time, air bubbles will appear in the liquid reservoir.

Turn the steering wheel to the left as far as it will go to escape the remaining air from the hydraulic system.

Repeat the procedure until the air bubbles stop appearing in the tank. If necessary, add liquid to the maximum mark.

With such simple procedures, you will extend the service life of the power steering system on your car and you will enjoy comfortable driving for a long time.Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main systems of the car.Many probably know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where do you start? Image - DIY power steering repair

1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not end up in the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.

2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).

3. Taking the hexagon "6", unscrew the steering shaft coupling screws from the bottom of the machine. Do not forget to mark its position with the roll relative to the power steering shaft before doing this.

4. Slide the elastic sleeve off the slots using a pry bar.

5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.

6. Unscrew the car and remove the left front wheel.

7.Taking the socket wrench to "15", loosen the three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member from the wheel arch side by removing two of them.

8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to glass the liquid.

9. Seal the hoses and fittings at least with a rag.

10. Holding the hydraulic booster under the machine with one hand, unscrew the remaining bolt and do not drop the gearbox on your foot.

11. Before disassembling the gearbox, wash it thoroughly.

Many experts strongly recommend re-reading the articles on power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are disassembled almost completely, with the exception of the pair "ball nut - steering shaft screw", others - it is better not to touch. Although even if you accidentally unscrew the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them.

Steps for repairing the power steering:

1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon at “6”, as well as a regular old tray, into which ATF will start to merge.

2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering over the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.

3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts set on the fixing mastic, and therefore it is rather difficult to unscrew.

4. Unscrew the adjusting screw locknut, and then, turning the screw, screw it into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.

5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the collar, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.

6. Remove the spring and shake out the valve.

7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the body. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.

8. Pry up the formed gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and the piston out of the gearbox.

9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.

10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.

11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball duct channel.

12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the power steering backlash: the gaps in the shaft-ball nut pair, in the shaft bearing unit (in the cover), as well as in the ball nut bearing unit in the piston housing itself.

13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal weakening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If a backlash is found in the shaft-cap assembly, then release the locknut and tighten it so that the backlash disappears, but without fanaticism. Do not forget to carry out the "operation" clean, that is, the cleaned part should shine.

If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be lazy to get detailed drawings of the power steering or take sheets of paper and put each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you will definitely not lose anything and collect the power steering without mistakes, but they do not joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.

14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATFkoy.

Good luck, motorists, in repairing the power steering!

The MAZ GUR pump plays an important role in the operation of the power steering system. Thanks to the coordinated work of all components of the unit, simplified and convenient machine control is provided.

the steering wheel began to turn with great difficulty when performing maneuvers;

when driving, when cornering, you can notice a gap and hear the impact of the steering wheel;

the pumping device began to function noisily;

there is not enough or no oil in the power steering system;

the steering wheel may linger on reverse.

To dismantle the mechanism from the car, do the following:

The cabin of the car leans back.In most MAZ models, without this, it will not be possible to diagnose the presence of a lubricating fluid in the system and get to the pumping device. Using a plumbing rig, open the lock on the rear of the cab.

Slide the safety cable to the side. On the right you will see the pump for the hydraulic drive of the cab. There is a special lever on the mechanism. With the help of a fitter's assembly, the device is pumped until the cabin is lifted to the end.

Using a tool, loosen the lock nut marked with 8 in the diagram. Loosen the adjusting bolt to loosen the tension on the drive straps.

Disconnect the hoses from the device. There may be some lubricating oil in the lines, prepare rags.

Remove the screws securing the movable bracket of the pumping mechanism to the power unit.

Dismantle the pump itself; the tensioning mechanism is removed with it.

Before removing the power steering pump on a MAZ car, it is necessary to dismantle the drive straps.Installation of a new MAZ power steering pump is carried out in the reverse order.You need to perform the following actions:

Install the part, put the movable bracket in place.

The drive straps are installed on the first pulley of the pumping device. The fixed bracket, marked with the number 5 in the diagram, is fixed to the power unit.

The adjusting bolt marked with number 7 adjusts the tension of the drive straps. At this stage, you need to be careful, since the correct operation of the belt is important for the car. If the product is tensioned with good quality, then in its middle part the deflection value at a load of 30 N should be no more than 1.5 and no less than 1 cm.

When the adjustment is complete, the number 8 locknut is tightened.

The lines of the hydraulic booster system are connected back. Part of the oil is poured through the reservoir, which spilled out when they were disconnected.

Reasons why the pumping device may not work:

Using the wrong oil. If the consumable does not match the hydraulic power steering system in terms of technical characteristics, this will lead to premature failure of the pumping device. The oil circulates through this mechanism, so it is always in contact with the liquid. Rapid wear will lead to rapid destruction and the need to replace the device.

The operation of the power steering system with old oil. With prolonged operation, wear products are formed in the fluid. As a result of constant circulation through the system, the sludge clogs the pumping mechanism, which leads to a decrease in its service life. Even if the oil is changed in a timely manner without flushing the system, a part of the old fluid will remain in the device.

Driving method. If the driver prefers an aggressive driving style, in particular, on "dead" roads, this will cause the device to jam.

Incorrect drive strap tension. The over-tightened product leads to rapid wear of the bearing device, as well as the sleeve. Always check the belt tension.

Critical overload of the device. The highest load is placed on the mechanism when the steering wheel is turned to the extreme position for more than five seconds.

Read also: DIY TV repair

The TRUCK13 Service channel spoke about the causes of malfunctions and the repair of the power steering mechanism at MAZ.You can buy a power steering pump for MAZ in your city or online stores of spare parts for large cars.Prices for a new power steering pump for a MAZ car vary around 5700 rubles on average. The cost of replacement work depends on the region and city where they will be performed, as well as on the service station itself and the qualifications of specialists.Average prices for replacing mechanisms in Moscow:

changing a device without a bracket costs about 1,500 rubles;

replacing a mechanism with a bracket will cost the consumer about three thousand rubles;

a complete replacement of the steering mechanism will cost at least five thousand rubles.

The vdm melitopol channel talks about diagnostics of the power steering system with a pump with a special stand.I am a young driver, and after six months of work on a KAMAZ, the steering wheel began to knock, I could not cope with the breakdown on my own, I turned to the guys, it turned out that the whole thing was in the power steering pump, if the article had come across earlier, I could have managed it myself, it’s not difficult there it turned out. Just follow the instructions in the article. Well, it's better not to overtake a KAMAZ, if you are not sure that you will be in time, with sudden braking and jerking the steering wheel, the power steering pump will fly off quickly.I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite perfect, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.

Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.The desired result is obtained,now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store. Image - DIY power steering repair

Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:

you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
you will need a snap ring puller;
prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, O-rings, in the amount of two pieces and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a repair kit for the power steering pump;
be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.

In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.

Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley. Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.

Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.

Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
Remove the axle bolt that secures the pump to the bracket and replace it with a screwdriver or a metal rod of a suitable diameter in order to lock the pulley. Then unscrew the nut that secures the pump pulley.
Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.

Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.

Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.

Press the bearing off the pump shaft.

Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.

Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.

Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.

If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic: