To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
Before deciding to carry out repair work, it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the tank, as well as the compliance of its brand with the approved one for use on this machine. Often, the cause of the signs of malfunction is the appearance of air locks in the system. Therefore, if you suspect this, it is necessary to pump the hydraulics, removing all air plugs. In this case, the efficiency of the power steering can be fully restored. If, when checking the quality of the working fluid, it is found that it does not meet the standard, it is necessary to change it to the fluid of the desired brand. In the case when a decision is made to repair the power steering pump, it is required to prepare a workplace and the necessary tools, as well as materials for carrying out the work:
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
VIDEO
A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one. Thank you for the article!
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. Power steering for VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself .
The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception. The power steering pump on cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter. The whole difficulty lies in the fact that this pump model is not collapsible, that is, there are no retaining rings or covers.
Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.
but restore the operation of the power steering pump it is still possible.
We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instructions). Then we thoroughly clean it from dirt and visually inspect it to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them can be a step on the inner wall of the pump casing. The step can be removed with a drill attachment.
Another reason power steering pump malfunctions there can be a worn out bearing in a closed housing (450 rubles) or an old oil seal (50 rubles). When installing the oil seal, you may need to sharpen the shaft a little on a lathe. There are two ways to fix the new bearing in the pump housing: Make a groove at the turner on the outside of the bearing. Drill threaded holes in the pump wall. Insert a new bearing and secure it with sharpened bolts, which are then sawn off. Alternatively, secure the bearing inside the pump using the folded edges of the housing. We assemble the power steering pump in reverse order. Unlike the Saginaw pumps, the vanes on the ZF pump do not turn over. To put the flange on the shaft, you need to put the heated flange on the shaft. After a sharp cooling, he will sit tight. If power steering pump hums after assembly, then do not be alarmed, this is grinding in the parts, after 300-500 km the hum will go away. Do not forget to change the power steering fluid afterwards. It is worth noting that the device and repair of an electric power steering is much simpler than a power steering.
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I will tell you how I repaired the power steering pump. But first, a little background.
The steering wheel on a cold car in summer and winter works flawlessly. But as soon as the car warms up, especially in the summer, the steering wheel on the XX becomes very tight, as if the power steering is not there. In winter, this problem does not manifest itself so strongly, but it is still present. If you put it on the gas, the steering wheel immediately turns with ease (though not quite ideal, but still lighter). At the same time, the pump does not knock, does not ring, nor leaks, etc ... (do not take the snotty rail into account) the oil is fresh and perfect (especially, thanks to the state of the rail, it is updated regularly!), The cardan is lubricated and does not wedge!
In general, on the face of the sign of the lack of performance of the power steering pump with hot oil at XX. I didn't suffer for a long time, in the end I decided to deal with this problem, spent a lot of time, rummaged through the Internet, understood the principle of the pump, found a similar description and decided to sort out my "old" pump.
And so, first of all, we remove the pump, it is necessary to drain all the slurry from it (how to remove it and drain the liquid, I think everyone will figure it out), also, on the back cover of the power steering, you need to unscrew four bolts with a 14 head.
After we begin to carefully remove the cover, try not to damage the gasket (this gasket with an internal rubber seal), in the power steering body we leave the outer part of the "working ellipse cylinder" (hereinafter simply the cylinder). There is no need to be scared when the lid moves away from the case, it may seem that it is moving away due to the influence of the spring, during reassembly it will seem to you that it does not fit into place, just continue to carefully and alternately tighten the bolts diagonally, then everything will fall into place ...
Carefully inspect the contents and remember (you can take a photo) what stood where and how (more attention should be paid to the position of the cylinder). You can twist the power steering pulley and gently check with tweezers how the blades move in the grooves of the shaft.
All parts should be pulled out without effort, since they do not have any fixations, but the central axis is fixed rigidly, it cannot be removed.
We inspect the shaft from the back side, parts (power steering body and cover wall) touching them, for scoring or grooves, everything is perfect for me.
Now we take out the entire internal economy on "clean" rags and begin to study it.
We carefully examine the shaft, all its grooves have very sharp edges on all sides. One of the end sides of each groove has a pronounced sharpening inward, which, when the blade moves inside the groove with a constant slope to this side, will greatly complicate its movement (this may be the first component of the poor operation of the power steering). The lateral parts of the grooves of the shaft are also "sharpened", this can be felt if you slide your finger in different directions along the end (outer circumference), as well as along the lateral parts of the shaft in different directions. The rest of the shaft is perfect, does not have any flaws and notches.
The faults were found, now we are starting to eliminate them.
We need a rag, white alcohol, sandpaper with a grit of P1000 / P1500 / P2000, a triangular file, a 12mm drill (or more) and an electric drill. With the shaft, everything is much simpler, you need a P1500 sandpaper and we begin to clean all the edges of the grooves on the shaft (we clean the outer and lateral on both sides) in all possible ways. We work without fanaticism, the main task is to remove only sharp burrs.
For one thing, you can immediately polish both sides of the shaft on a flat surface, it is advisable to use P2000 sandpaper.
Next, you need to check the result of our work, check it visually and by touch, everything is perfectly smooth and does not cling.
The most difficult thing will have to do with the surface of the cylinder, I personally have nothing simpler, I have not figured out how to make a spherical grinder from a skin, a drill and a thick drill (F12). To begin with, we take a P1000 skin and such a drill, which can be crammed into a drill.
Next, you need to tightly wind the skin against the rotation of the drill, in two or three turns, there should be no gaps.
Holding the tightly twisted structure, you need to insert it into the drill (clamp the skin too).
Then, in the most convenient ways for you, we carefully begin to grind the cylinder, you need to grind evenly, press the cylinder tightly and move it relative to the axis of rotation (at maximum speed). As the skin is eaten, we change it, as a result we reach the smallest skin P2000.
The desired result is obtained,
now everything must be thoroughly wiped with a path with white alcohol. The shaft itself with blades can be rinsed in it.
After we start the assembly, everything is put in the reverse order of removal.
Many modern cars are equipped with a power steering (GUR). Russian cars were also equipped with such systems, but not in such quantities as we would like. The power steering on the VAZ 2110 was installed on rare trim levels, for example, the VAZ 21124. In this article, we will show how you can repair the power steering pump yourself.
The price of a new pump is more than 3 thousand rubles. Any part can be repaired, the power steering pump is no exception. The power steering pump on cars of the tenth family was installed by the ZF brand (ZFLS 7691 955 339). It is also suitable for VAZ 2170 and 2123, as well as Audi A6, Wolksvagen Passat or Transporter. The whole difficulty lies in the fact that this pump model is not collapsible, that is, there are no retaining rings or covers. However, it is still possible to restore the operation of the power steering pump
We remove and disassemble the power steering pump (instructions). Then we thoroughly clean it from dirt and visually inspect it to determine the causes of the breakdown. One of them can be a step on the inner wall of the pump casing. The step can be removed with a drill attachment.
Another reason for a power steering pump malfunction may be a worn bearing in a closed housing (450 rubles) or an old oil seal (50 rubles). When installing the oil seal, you may need to sharpen the shaft a little on a lathe.
There are two ways to fix the new bearing in the pump housing: Make a groove at the turner on the outside of the bearing. Drill threaded holes in the pump wall. Insert a new bearing and secure it with sharpened bolts, which are then sawn off.
Alternatively, secure the bearing inside the pump using the folded edges of the housing. We assemble the power steering pump in reverse order. Unlike the Saginaw pumps, the vanes on the ZF pump do not turn over. To put the flange on the shaft, you need to put the heated flange on the shaft. After a sharp chill, it will sit firmly.
If power steering pump buzzing after assembly, then do not be alarmed, this is grinding in the parts, after 300-500 km the hum will go away. Do not forget to change the power steering fluid afterwards.
On modern LADA cars, the power steering (GUR) is less and less common. It is currently installed on the Lada Priora sedan and the Niva 4x4 SUV. Some power steering malfunctions: it becomes harder to turn the steering wheel, an extraneous noise has appeared under the hood (hums, whistles). Look in the power steering reservoir, most likely the oil in it has become dark. The reason is the metal chips that appear during the wear of the parts. To extend the service life of the power steering system, it is recommended to install a filter.
How much dirt is in the power steering tank after 160,000 km of run in the video:
VIDEO
You can remove metal shavings from the power steering tank using a magnet. We tie it to the lid or lower it to the bottom, the main thing is that the magnet is completely immersed in oil. After a day, check the condition of the magnet, if necessary, remove the chips from it. Every day the oil in the power steering system will be clearer and brighter. By the way, a similar solution is used on some foreign cars from the factory.
VIDEO
To clean the oil not only from metal chips, but also from other wear products, it is proposed to install an additional filter, which is specially designed for the hydraulic system. Here are some of these options (prices from 400 to 2000 rubles):
Flowing automatic transmission filter CONCORD H45FLT08AN.
MAPCO filter 29990.
Hydraulic filter QUINTON HAZELL QSRP10 (the last digit 10 or 12 indicates the diameter of the pipe).
Hydraulic filter QUINTON HAZELL QSRP10 Hydraulic filter QUINTON HAZELL QSRP10 Hydraulic filter QUINTON HAZELL QSRP10
To install the filter, cut the return hose, and put the filter as shown in the diagram, then tighten with clamps. Add oil and bleed the system (with the engine running, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock about 10 times). Checking for oil leaks. It is recommended to change the filter every 12 months, or 20,000 km, whichever comes first.
The standard power steering reservoir on Lada cars is non-separable (made by ZF). There is a filter inside it, which is a fine mesh. If you think that such protection is not enough, install the power steering tank from the Volga (GAZ 3110), catalog number: 3105-3407178. There are two types to choose from:
plastic (non-separable) power steering tank with a built-in filter (price 150 rubles);
a metal power steering tank with a replaceable filter (the price of a tank is about 500 rubles, a replaceable filter is 40 rubles).
power steering tank Volga, plastic power steering tank Volga, metal filter in the reservoir of the power steering Volga
To install it, no modifications are required. the tank from the Volga and the ZF are almost the same in size and have two nozzles (inlet and outlet) with the same diameters. Replacement on the example of a VAZ 2110 car, where the power steering, as on the Prior.
VIDEO
Recall that AvtoVAZ installs an electric power steering on other Lada cars (Granta, Kalina, etc.). In the event of a malfunction, you can diagnose the EUR yourself.
Welcome! The oil in the hydraulic power steering - thanks to it, the ease of rotation of the steering wheel is carried out (I mean thanks to the oil), but thanks to the hydraulic power steering itself, of course, it is easy to turn the steering wheel, but if there is no oil in it, then it will not work accordingly either. therefore, the oil level must be constantly monitored and the oil itself must be changed from time to time, because it, like any other oil, does not last forever.
Note! In order to change the oil in the power steering, you will need to stock up on a set of tools, namely: We recommend that if you have two jacks with you, they are needed in order to lift both front wheels up and thus the steering wheel will turn much easier, and the steering wheel you will have to twist for a very long time with an inoperative power steering, since when you change the oil, it will not work for you, and you will also need to stock up on a medical syringe and a small long hose that you put on this syringe, and you will also need a container into which you will drain used oil and, accordingly, a few unnecessary rags, in order to cover all the belts with them, which presumably can get oil when draining the used fluid from the power steering reservoir!
Summary:
Where is the power steering reservoir? In general, when changing the oil, you will only use this tank, because it contains the oil itself and you will not even need to select the other parts of the power steering, so the tank is located in the engine compartment of the car, so you will need to first open the hood and then find it (It is indicated in the photo below by an arrow).
When should you change the power steering oil? It is recommended to change the oil every 2, well, as a last resort, once every 3 years, during this time the oil already loses all its additives and in this regard, extraneous noise may appear during the operation of the power steering, as well as vibrations emitted by the power steering may appear, and in general it is impossible to drive for a long time on old oil (we will call it waste), because it loses its additives, and if it loses its additives, then its goal is to protect the furs from breakdowns, and therefore the mechanism will fail much faster.
Note! Do not always look at how much the car passed with new oil, or how many years have passed since the last filling, it is better to check everything yourself, regardless of the numbers, to do this, unscrew the top cap of the tank (It is also indicated by the arrow), and after it has you will be twisted, take a look at the oil itself, if it is darkened and there is still a burning smell to all this, then such oil should be changed to a new one without hesitation!
Note! Oil change work is best done with an assistant, because in this work it will really come in handy, since one of you will need to monitor the oil level, while the other will need to turn the steering wheel at the same time, and it’s more fun together, as they say!
Draining: 1) At the beginning of the operation, at your discretion, either raise both front wheels with two jacks, or skip this point and move on to the next, just when you expel the used oil from the system, you will have to sit in the car and turn the steering wheel to the left (All the way), to the right (All the way), etc., it will simply be difficult to do this with the wheels not hanging.
Note! If you find yourself on the ground or loose soil (in general, on a surface that crumbles), we recommend that you place bricks under the rear wheels so that the car does not fall off the jacks, and under both jacks, before putting the car on them, place them on a hard board!
2) Then unscrew the lid of the power steering reservoir of the system (This lid is still shown in the photo above with an arrow), and when it is open, take a syringe in your hands and put it deep in the reservoir and then collect all the waste liquid from the reservoir and pour it into the prepared capacity for this.
Note! Repeat and repeat this operation until all the oil from the tank is sucked out, by the way, for convenience, if you want, you can still put on a small but long enough hose on the syringe, as shown in the photo below:
When you work with oil, that is, suck it out of the tank or fill in a new one, then in any case, close with rags or whatever else, all the belts under which you will carry oil, because rubber does not like oil!
3) Now ask your assistant to get into the car, but only carefully if your car is on jacks and after it sits down, turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, and at that moment while he turns it, you are at this time watch the tank, waste oil should appear in it, you take this oil with a syringe and re-pour it into a prepared container.
4) Next, you will need to loosen the clamp that secures the oil return hose to the power steering reservoir (see photo 1), so when the clamp is loosened, disconnect this tank hose and lower it into a container to drain the used oil (see photo 2 ).
Note! And when it is lowered into the container, tell your assistant to turn the steering wheel again in the same way as he did before, and after the oil is completely drained from the hose, connect it to its place and retighten the clamp and check to hold on firmly!
What else, if you still have liquid in the tank itself (for example, it was not drained to the end, although it is not necessary to do this), then be sure to close the hole to which the hose fits with your hand so that oil does not flow out onto the engine and does not stain it !
Filling: 1) First, take a can bought at a car shop with new oil and then start pouring oil into the tank, pour oil to the very top, and after it has been poured, let your assistant turn the steering wheel again in the same way from edge to edge, and At the same time, you will continue to pour oil into the tank, because when the assistant rotates the steering wheel, it will leave the tank as it rotates.
2) After the oil has already stopped decreasing, let your assistant stop turning the steering wheel and start the car for literally 10 seconds, the oil after starting it will also begin to decrease, but you constantly monitor its level and add oil as it decreases so that it is up to the very top.
3) When the car has been running for 10 seconds, turn it off, and then ask the assistant to turn the steering wheel in the same way, while you control the oil level in the power steering reservoir.
Note! When the assistant rotates the steering wheel, air bubbles will most likely appear in the tank, which will come out of the system and which appeared in the system as a result of its depressurization!
4) Next, add oil again to the desired level, close the lid at the reservoir, sit in the car and then start the car, when the car starts to work, turn the steering wheel and check whether the power steering works as before or not, in fact, the steering wheel should rotate a little softer, hum and itching when turning it should also not be.
Additional video clip: In order for you to clearly understand the process of changing the oil in the power steering, watch the video below in which everything is shown and explained in detail, but only the oil change in this video is done using the example of the HONDA CR-V car, but if you delve into the article itself and watch in addition to this video clip then you will understand everything perfectly, namely you will understand how the oil in the system is replaced.
VIDEO
The oil in the power steering must be changed! Once every 2 years! This is necessary because it changes its properties, moisture gets into the oil, additives are oxidized, etc. The oil should: 1) act as a working fluid, 2) lubricate the pump - increasing its resource, 3) lubricate the gearbox - mainly preventing pitting, scuffing, welding in balls and sectors (there are high specific loads) 4) protect rubber from cracking, swelling, dissolution
A SIMPLE SPINDLE CANNOT DO THIS (except for item 1) Also, what is sold under the names Brand A Oil cannot do it. R. because it is most often a fake.
For normal operation of the power steering, normal imported mineral water Dexron-2 or Dexron-3 is sufficient.
Power steering ZF, VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112, 2170, Priora
when operating a car; Steering effort is significantly reduced, especially when maneuvering in tight spaces and on rough terrain Vehicle stability increases in difficult road conditions; Reduces driver fatigue when driving four-wheel drive vehicles; The efficiency of the hydraulic booster is due to the fact that its power system is activated only when the steered wheels are turned at a significant angle; Reliable hydraulic booster and its systems do not require maintenance costs; Hydraulic boosters are installed on cars with both carburetor and injection engines.
Video (click to play).
Steering mechanisms ZF. Description, maintenance and possible faults