Do-it-yourself power steering repair uaz patriot

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the power steering uaz patriot from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Power steering power steering, device, repair, operation.

Attention! A proven method!
With the help of a modified pump puller VAZ 01-07 (worth a penny) and two M8 bolts 65 mm long. When working, consider three points
1.holes in the steering wheel hub are not drilled through 180 degrees
2.Cut off the jumper between the hole and the end of the puller with a grinder
3.Fake steering wheels do not have technological holes in the hub and this method will not help
Notes:
1. On sale there are pump pullers of different thickness - the correct one is the one> = 10mm.
2. Before you pick up the grinder, you need to try on the puller on the handlebars and outline the direction of future cuts. The grinder will have to work seriously.
3. Screw the bolts (those that are M8) into the holes on the steering wheel and necessarily lock on the reverse side with nuts. (otherwise the thread will rip off)
Press down with the screw (M10) included in the puller kit.
Photo of the modified puller, puller assembly. Large diameter nuts act as non-crease washers.

The same problem came up. I had to throw the steering wheel over a couple of slots, so I could not remove it. I had to disconnect the steering shaft and rearrange it in the splines. There is a barbaric way, but this steering wheel is painfully flimsy for him to the touch. You can unscrew the retaining nut, disconnect the shaft and loosen the steering column bearing. One pulls the steering wheel towards itself, and the other hits the end of the steering shaft with a heavy hammer. You can make a fittings from a nut screwing onto the steering shaft by half of its thread and a bolt screwing into this nut. And it is more convenient to knock on the bolt.

Video (click to play).

I have one that they put on the latest new UAZs, so it can be removed with a puller without problems. There, under the plastic patch, there are two special holes for this purpose.

Everything is very simple - you need a thick (5-6 mm) plate with two holes for M8 bolts screwed into the steering wheel hub. The plate rests on the shaft, the bolts are tightened, the wheel is pulled together. You can drill holes in place by measuring the distance between the holes with a vernier caliper.

A 15x15 corner is taken, a piece of length is sawn off from it

20 cm.In it, in turn, 2 holes are drilled at a distance the same as the holes in the steering wheel (2 threaded holes into which the bracket for the bibical is passed), it is applied to the steering shaft and wrapped into the holes through the corner that there were two fools bolt М8. The bolts pull the steering wheel towards themselves, and the corner, respectively, rests on the shaft, the steering wheel is pulled together. I changed mine from the usual to the luxury one. And I wanted to help my friend remove the new steering wheel on the zero car - so he unscrewed his head nafig on one bolt - then he spent an hour turning out the stub - so make up your mind.

Before shooting, pour VDshka or Unisma! It will go easier !!
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It is pulled up by a simple device made from a sheet of an old spring. You take a leaf of the spring and bend one edge of it (cm 5-7) under 90 degrees. With this thing, the steering tips are very easy to tighten, only the wheels must be removed so that they do not interfere.

Can be tightened with a chisel. To do this, you will have to remove the rods (not the tips, but all the rods - while the convergence will not suffer) and holding the hinges in a vice, release the plugs (by unscrewing or twisting, if necessary. I tightened harder than in the primer - all the way and 1/4 back. everything is OK.By the way, even the new tips are wrapped 2.5 turns.
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To adjust the gearbox, unscrew the cap nut on the side of the gearbox housing (a large one, a key for 28 or 30, I used an adjustable one), remove the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw with a “square” until the backlash is eliminated and assemble in the reverse order. It is also necessary to check the condition of the ends of the steering rods, very often the steering backlash is due to them.

Before adjusting the steering wheel - to the central position and tighten not according to the very "I do not want", but wisely. The witness himself, when the worm in the over-tightened gearbox was biting into extreme positions.Very unpleasant, especially on the road.
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It so happened that on my 91 thousand "loaf" the resource of the steering gear was completely exhausted. That is, the backlash was not eliminated by the adjusting screw, moreover, it became very tight to turn the steering wheel. In short, I decided to change the entot device. I read the ABC book, bought a new gearbox. and on Saturday together with a friend began to poke around. The first thing they ran into was the removal of the steering wheel. You need a special puller, and instead only a set consisting of a hammer and a sledgehammer and a long list of obscene expressions. After an unsuccessful hour of work with this set, the commander's decision came to cut off the steering column with a "grinder". No sooner said than done, only the people from the neighboring garages looked at this operation in a strange way. Next, you need to remove the steering bipod. There was a puller for this operation, but in the process of its implementation it was gone. I had to remove the cover with the adjusting screw, insert a “locomotive” key between the gearbox housing and the steering bipod and separate these parts with the blows of a 10-kg sledgehammer on the steering bipod shaft. The remnants of the old gearbox were thrown away, the transmission synthetics (GL5) were poured into the new one and everything was put in place.
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UAZ does not produce military bridges + power steering vehicles (except for "Bars"). In my opinion, the problem is that military bridges have a greater angle of rotation of the wheel (or it is known that the power steering is unreliable.) not one of the strongmen), on bumps I try not to turn the steering wheel too much unnecessarily (or do I see some special bumps?) [Commodore]

I have had a power steering for a year (with military bridges), and I must say that I am very pleased with it.
1. The car has excellent maneuverability - since the angle of rotation of the wheels of the military is greater, the light steering wheel when parking allows you to turn literally on the spot. Try to do the same operation without power steering.
2. On the track, the car reacts less to unevenness, it is easier to keep it on a straight line, and there is zero, although not the same as on foreign cars.
3. Off-road is easier than an example - over bumps and ruts!
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In my opinion, this is a matter of habit. There is one more thing. What did you drive before? The base is short, so it prowls along the road. This is not even a generic feature of the Ulyanovsk all-terrain vehicles, but a feature inherent in all short-range vehicles. So far I have been driving the "goat" and have not noticed any yaw. Hands themselves already automatically corrected the movement of the car imperceptibly for me. But as soon as I took a ride in a long-wheelbase car, I was horrified when I got into my own “goat”. And before that I went and did not notice.

The problem can be solved, but only in a complex. Install a steering damper, good shock absorbers, eliminate all backlash in the steering rods, gearbox, swingarm, bearings, etc. and install good tires. It will get much better. But it won't be perfect anyway, it's not VW. You just have to get used to it. Do not think that if the car is new, then there is still no backlash. That is why (because the car is new) it is still very poorly made. Everything must be checked and tightened / changed / adjusted. If done by hand, everything will be fine.

1. Eliminate imperfections and backlashes. 2. Get used to 3. Not voiced by previous speakers: there are Guras with, so to speak, with a "minor" drawback - the actuation of this device with a slight delay, with zero information content of the steering wheel, this leads to "overrun".
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In fact, it is more reliable, and by the way and cheaper, imported from disassembly, for example from Chevrolet. In Vadik's "Black Cuttlefish", for example, there is, after two of our untimely dead.

I myself got myself a hydrach on a UAZ, I attached a W-123 body from Merce. I installed the gearbox without any problems, but I had to tinker with the pump. Put it together with the steering column and all the switches and the ignition switch! And it took about two days, taking into account all the preparatory work!

The product of joint production of OJSC “Avtodetal-Service” (Ulyanovsk) and the firm “ZF Lenksysteme” (Germany) for the production of a Steering gear with a hydraulic booster (31608-3400500) (hereinafter “Mechanism”) for UAZ cars of the brand: passenger cars 3160, 3162, 3163 and cargo UAZ 2360- "Pickup".

The complete set of the "Mechanism" includes parts manufactured by ZFLS (Germany): a high-pressure pump, a distributor with a screw and a piston - with a rack assembly, needle injection and drain hoses, an oil tank, a tank clamp, a bracket, a pump holder, a poly V-belt pulley , fasteners.

Test tests gave the following results (tests were carried out on a serial UAZ-31622):
1. Effort on the steering wheel: to the left 2.0 kgf; to the right 2.6 kgf;
2. Speed of self-return of the steering wheel: 246 degrees / sec;
3. Changeover speed: 76.1 km / h;
4. Speed of turning R 35 m: 69.5 km / h;
5. The gear ratio of the steering mechanism: 17.23.
The sale of a complete set of power steering gear is made by Tehresurs LLC.
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You can rotate, but it is undesirable to ride like this for a long time. This option was from the factory - a gearbox from a power steering, but there was no pump and other things. He traveled several thousand - then the backlash in the gearbox increased.
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The invention is not mine, it is from the ancients and the chorus. forgotten "experienced advice". In quality anthers USE ball finger covers from ZAZ-968 A, M, slightly cutting them off from above.
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A complete list of components, as well as a drawing and description of the power steering, installation procedure, operation and maintenance of the power steering HERE.

According to rumors, Sterlitamak is of better quality than Borisov, although it is "tighter" (the gear ratio is less). Outwardly, the Sterlitamak hoses run one after the other from above, while the Borisov hoses run one on top and one on the side.

According to the Ulyanovsk craftsmen, the Borisov power steering is more reliable. Also, power steering, in my opinion, differ in the number of revolutions of the steering wheel (3 and 5).

The Borisov power steering is really very powerful, even on 35s with -19 discs it turns without feedback. But Sterlitamak is much more informative.

The plant does not make wagon-type cars with power steering - the issue is being resolved; cars of a wagon layout, on gear axles and with power steering (and without power steering) does not at all.

Everything turned out surprisingly well for me. Although at first I found out that power boosters are not put on a loaf. But there was no strength to fight with the steering wheel (especially on the off-road) and decided to mount the usual UAZ hydraulic booster by means of a cunning bracket. From Ulyanovsk, they brought me a factory kit for installation on the UAZ-31514. When I found out what these hydraulic boosters are doing in Belarus in the glorious city of Borisov, we decided to go to the plant with a mechanic - to consult. And lo and behold - it turns out a month ago the factory workers made 5 hydraulic boosters specifically for loaves and went to Ulyanovsk to offer them to UAZ, but UAZ refused this development under the pretext that the stamping of the body had to be changed for this wetsuit. So they came back with these gidrikas (luckily for us). In short, we bought ourselves one for $ 50. Became like a native. With the steering column, I was a little perverted - I put MAZovskaya, with an adjustable tilt. As for the stamping, there was no need to cut the floor. car lifted under the 33rd rubber.
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There is the most traditional rack-and-pinion worm gearbox, it is good precisely because it is light - it is easy to turn on the spot, and on the track, but it returns to zero itself, just hold it. The same is bad - on bumps it “responds” with lightning speed and mercilessly - I, having broken two fingers with an old three-spoke steering wheel, put a weighted two-spoke steering wheel (in general, in my opinion, it is the most convenient of the existing ones).

The second option - Borisov or "luxury" has a powerful gearbox, due to which it is less sensitive, does not hit the hands, does not require strong steering on the track at high speeds. But it turns tighter than the first one and returns to zero itself less intensely, which, at least, annoys me.

The UAZ Patriot car in the design of the steering mechanism has a device that is popularly called power steering or hydraulic power steering. The hydraulic booster is a device by which human physical labor is facilitated. All that a person needs is to hold the steering wheel in his hands, and you can even control it with one finger. In this material, we will consider the purpose of the power steering, as well as its structure and the principle of repair work on the UAZ Patriot SUV.

The main purpose of the power steering device is to facilitate driving. Thanks to the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV, turning the steering wheel is much easier and more comfortable. After all, turning the steering wheel without an amplifier on such a 2-ton car is quite difficult, and this can provoke the development of an emergency situation while driving. In addition, prolonged driving would lead to rapid driver fatigue. Therefore, a device was developed that made it possible to facilitate human labor.

The hydraulic booster is a complex mechanism, which includes the following main devices:

Consider the purpose of each of these power steering elements.
Pump 1 serves to maintain pressure and circulate the working fluid through the system. The pump is a mechanism that is attached to the car's engine and is driven by a belt drive from the SUV's crankshaft.

The hydraulic cylinder is designed to ensure that the wheels turn under the influence of fluid pressure. The hydraulic cylinder is built into the system of the steering mechanism 3, whereby the performance of this function is ensured. Below is a structural diagram of the power steering device on a UAZ Patriot car.

Distributor 2 is designed to distribute the flow of working fluid into the required cavity of the hydraulic cylinder. The distributor is the device by which a certain amount of fluid is directed to the hydraulic cylinder or reservoir.

Tank 6 is a plastic reservoir for storing and adding working fluid to the system. In addition to the liquid, the reservoir also contains a special filter and an oil control dipstick.

It is impossible to do without connecting hoses in the design of the power steering steering wheel on the UAZ Patriot SUV. These hoses are designed to work under high pressure, therefore, they must ensure high tightness of the system.

The circulation of the fluid by means of hoses is provided between the hydraulic cylinder and the distributor. Low pressure hoses allow fluid to flow from reservoir to pump and from distributor to reservoir.

The operation of the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV is based on the movement of the spool when the steering wheel is rotated in different directions. During the rotation of the wheel, when making a maneuver, the spool moves, whereby the drain lines are opened. When a certain line is opened, the oil moves under pressure to the required areas of the device. The fluid exerts pressure on the piston, which ultimately drives the turning of the wheels. When the driver stops turning the steering wheel, the spool stops and the neutral position of the distributor body stops.

Liquid flows from the discharge line to the drain line, whereby the pump pumps oil through the system. In the event of a failure of the hydraulic pump, the loss of vehicle control is not lost at all, which is another advantage of this mechanism.

Each mechanism tends to break down and the power steering on the UAZ Patriot SUV is no exception. The reasons for the repair are the following signs:

The appearance of extraneous noise from the device.
The appearance of an oil leak on the elements of the mechanism.
Microcracks on low and high pressure hoses.
Increased steering effort.
Reducing the level of liquid in the reservoir.

Repair of the power steering of the UAZ Patriot SUV can be done by hand, but it all depends on the type of malfunction, so you need to first find out the reason. There are the following reasons for which the device needs to be repaired:

If an uncharacteristic noise of its operation occurs in the mechanism of the device, then this indicates wear of the bearing elements. In this case, they should be replaced. But, besides this, extraneous noise can be caused due to the ingress of a foreign substance into the liquid or when filling the system with an unsuitable liquid.

If a leakage of working fluid is found, then the place of such an action should be found. In this case, it is important to inspect all the joints of the hoses, where most often the working fluid flows.

If the oil level in the power steering reservoir decreases, then this indicates the need to replace the reservoir or connecting hoses soon.

The presence of microcracks on the high pressure hoses is a key sign that the device may soon malfunction during operation. Therefore, during prophylaxis, if cracks are found on the hoses, the latter must be replaced. High pressure hoses are not repaired and after they are worn out, they must be disposed of.

When the load on the steering wheel increases, the hose ruptures, which requires immediate replacement.

Image - Do-it-yourself power steering repair uaz patriot

1. Disconnect the bipod link from the bipod or hang out the front wheels.
2. Remove the power steering reservoir cover, fill in oil until it appears above the filter mesh, no more than 5 mm.

3. Without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel or the input shaft of the mechanism from lock to lock until the end of the exit of air bubbles from the oil in the reservoir. Add oil to the reservoir.

4. Start the engine while adding oil to the tank. In case of abundant foaming of the oil in the tank, which indicates that air has entered the system, stop the engine and let the oil settle for at least 20 minutes until air bubbles come out of the oil.Inspect the places where the hoses are connected to the units of the hydraulic booster system and, if necessary, eliminate the leaks.

5. Let the engine run for 15-20 seconds and bleed the power steering system to remove residual air from the steering mechanism by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, without holding it in extreme positions, three times in each direction.

6. Add oil to the tank if necessary.
7. Close the tank cap and hand tighten the cap nut.
8. Attach the bipod link, tighten and cotter the ball stud nut.

The steering gear is considered normal and does not require adjustment if the steering wheel free play in the straight-ahead position does not exceed 10 degrees, which corresponds to 33 mm when measured at the rim of the steering wheel.

Check the free play of the steering wheel when the engine is idling by shaking the steering wheel in one direction or the other before turning the front wheels. If the free play is more than the specified one, check the fastening of the steering mechanism, the condition of the steering rod joints, the condition of the steering column joints.

As well as tightening the bolts for fastening the forks of the hinges, tightening the nuts for fastening the bipod and the lever, fastening the steering wheel, make sure that there is no gap in the splined joint of the propeller shaft. Start adjusting the steering mechanism after eliminating the identified malfunctions.

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m.novitsky

Yesterday I got a spare power steering Delphi at my disposal with a suspicion of a malfunction. I was tortured to fight with a knock in the steering and decided to replace the steering gear at the same time as installing the bearing pins, suspecting that the reason for the knocks was in the play of the power steering shaft, to which the steering gimbal joins.

Read also: DIY diesel generator repair

Knocks, like many, arose and began to gradually increase from about 20 thousand kilometers. On a straight steering wheel, knocks were practically not noticeable, and when turned a quarter or a half turn, they could be felt even on tiny irregularities.

Individual steering components have been replaced several times, including the bushing in the ball. I suspected the steering mechanism itself when I felt a backlash at the shaft entry into the mechanism.

Looking ahead, I will inform you that almost complete disassembly of the gearbox allowed me to draw the following conclusions.

Firstly, I did not find any obvious reason for the shaft backlash, other than the fact that the shaft does not correspond in diameter to the bearing at the shaft entrance to the mechanism, and the shaft itself is not rigid - in order for the oil control spool to work. Apparently, this is the idea of the designer and the backlash is a design feature? I cannot say for sure, since the spool cannot be disassembled and assembled at home, for assembly you need a press and equipment.

Secondly, the wear of all parts of the mechanism for 36,000 mileage is either negligible or not noticeable at all. This makes me happy! The parts themselves look extremely powerful and reliable.

Thirdly, the mechanism turned out to be very simple in design, disassembly and assembly. The most “difficult” thing during the assembly was to push the balls into the channel, it turned out the second time. With regard to maintainability, the conclusion is as follows: if necessary, you can replace any bearing, all the main parts are very powerful and are not susceptible to accidental breakdown. The weakest part is the spool, which is connected directly to the shaft entering from the steering side, you should not force it by holding the steering wheel in extreme positions and steering with the engine not running. It is arranged in such a way that it cannot completely break down, before losing control, but the hydraulic booster in the event of a breakdown will be disabled for sure.

In the next messages I will give photographs of the inside of the mechanism.

The general structure of the mechanism looks like this:

Post has been edited forger – 3.7.2011, 18:02

Task: to replace the power steering hose 3163-00-3408150-01 with the UAZ Patriot.

Another problem from the Solers company in the form of a power steering pump hose is familiar to most owners of the UAZ patriot.
This is due to the fact that the hose “plays” under load, inflates as if it were alive, despite the fact that it is a HIGH PRESSURE SLEEVE!

Such a problem (although it should not have been) exists only on Delphi, since only on this configuration is the hose made in usa, using a SAE J 188 hose in my opinion. Those. sleeve with textile cord. Depending on the material of the inner / outer layer, such hoses have the possibility of increasing the inner volume of the hose by up to 30%. This is necessary to eliminate hydraulic noise from the power steering system. However, in UAZ cars this is not relevant, both because of the general noise and because of the remoteness of the steering mechanism from the driver.
And in this case, the use of such a sleeve turned out to be unjustified, since, according to the subjective feelings of the owners, there is ambiguity at the zero point.
In all other UAZ models (including the current version with a diesel engine) there is no such problem, because there is a hose with a metal cord. Which complies with EN853. There is no volumetric expansion at all. All hydraulic impulses go into the mechanism without reduction. But there are no losses due to the “blowing up” of the hose.

They did not expect?! Torn from the hand of the RVD and its insides.

sawn-off fitting. high-quality crimping, thick metal.

To facilitate its control, a hydraulic pump is installed on the UAZ Patriot car, which is removed in case of replacement of the pump of the cooling system, or in case of its malfunction. In this article, we will just tell you about the procedure for removing the power steering pump UAZ Patriot. A pump with catalog number - 3163-3407010 is installed on the UAZ Patriot car. The price of a power steering pump is about $ 150. The cost of the pump is not low, which is why first check that the malfunction is in it, that there are no leaks in the hoses, that there is no air in the hydraulic system. If, after an audit, it still turned out that the pump is faulty, then we proceed to replace it.

The belt must be removed to remove the pump. We already talked about how to remove and adjust the belt from the UAZ Patriot power steering pump in one of our articles - "Replacing the drive belt for the power steering pump and the viscous clutch for the UAZ Patriot cooling fan drive".

After that, unscrew the bolt - the fitting that holds the delivery metal hose to the power steering. Move the discharge hose to the side.

Please note that the hose is sealed with copper gaskets, which must be replaced during reassembly.

Copper gaskets are disposable and not intended for reuse. Next, loosen the rubber inlet clamp.

Now completely unscrew the 2 bolts holding the pump. The bolts were loosened when the belt was removed. Remove the pump.

After installing the pump, you need to tighten the belt, you can see about this from the article that we mentioned above. It is also necessary to pump the hydraulic system of the power steering, since without this the system will not work efficiently, which means that the steering will be "heavy". "Bleeding the power steering system of the UAZ Patriot."

Task: to replace the power steering hose 3163-00-3408150-01 with the UAZ Patriot.

Such a problem (although it should not have been) exists only on Delphi, since only on this configuration is the hose made in usa, using a SAE J 188 hose in my opinion. Those. sleeve with textile cord. Depending on the material of the inner / outer layer, such hoses have the possibility of increasing the inner volume of the hose by up to 30%. This is necessary to eliminate hydraulic noise from the power steering system. However, in UAZ cars this is not relevant, both because of the general noise and because of the remoteness of the steering mechanism from the driver.
And in this case, the use of such a sleeve turned out to be unjustified, since, according to the subjective feelings of the owners, there is ambiguity at the zero point.
In all other UAZ models (incl.and in the current version with a diesel engine) there is no such problem, because there is a hose with a steel cord. Which complies with EN853. There is no volumetric expansion at all. All hydraulic impulses go into the mechanism without reduction. But there are no losses due to the “blowing up” of the hose.

They did not expect?! Torn from the hand of the RVD and its insides.

sawn-off fitting. high-quality crimping, thick metal.

one end of the sleeve was with a ferrule, this ferrule was clamped in one of the fittings.

the steel sleeve is SHORT than the elastic band, the second end is simply bitten off with nippers from the factory, without rolling.

factory hose markings.

new RVD for 380 points with steel threads. firm, but bends without problems, does not play when working.

A different location of the injection branch, now the hose does not rub the battery and does not stick out towards the coolant barrel.

independent, garage pressurization to get to the service.

TO-4. Time to change the oil in the power steering.
I changed by substitution method. From consumables, you need two liters of oil, a power steering oil filter. And also a 10 wrench, a Phillips screwdriver, pliers, a plastic bottle, preferably two, preferably an assistant.
Algorithm:
1. Remove the oil tank (two bolts 10), remove the filter from the tank. Drain the oil over the edge. You don't have to shoot, but it turns out cleaner and nothing leaks.
2. Disconnect the reinforced hose from the tank (return from the power steering), lower it into an empty plastic bottle.
3. Fill in fresh oil (plug the return pipe from the power steering with your finger). If there is no assistant, we substitute another plastic bottle under the fitting. Cold oil does not have time to pour out quickly.
4. The assistant turns the starter and steering wheel from side to side. And so we drive about a liter of fresh oil.
5. We put the oil tank back, install a new oil filter. Fill in new oil. We start the engine, turn the steering wheel from side to side. We add a little to the level of the grid.
Everything. No fuss of work for 40 minutes.
It is advisable to hang out the front wheels. I didn’t do it, but it will be more convenient.

Consumables. You need two cans of butter.

Visually, it looks something like this.

I decided to make my life easier, or rather to make the steering wheel turn easier.

So - we order a power steering pump from VW Transporter (analogue of Zf parts 2856701) and a pulley (analogue 038145255A). You need to screw the pulley with something else. I took 2 M8 * 16 bolts and three M8 grovers. All this economy allows you to pull the pulley and does not come out from the back side. We take the fastening bolts to the bracket from the family - those that remain after removing the native pump. The pulley is a bit smaller than the native one - by 1

2mm in diameter.
Everything seems to be with the preparation.
In Feng Shui, of course, you still need a key for 16 and 18 ... at 18 I did not find it in the store - luckily, the fittings are not pulled with foolishness and the key for 19 is quite suitable. You can do without the 16th. And if there is a wrench, then generally do not care.

So - we unscrew the tubes, carefully drain the oil into the container. It is precisely and not even trusting ourselves that we hold and do not spill. We unscrew the casing, temple and remove the belt. The native pump rests on 5 bolts, which are carefully unscrewed, and the pump is retracted into the NC. We take a new pump, fasten it to the native mount, rejoice, fasten the pulley (this is more convenient), rejoice, we begin to fasten the supply and high pressure hoses.

giving a native from the opposite side ☺

They seem to be the same pumps, but the places for connecting the pipes make them rotate 180 degrees. Solution - since the high-pressure hose is VERY DESIRABLE to make a new one for pressure> 120bar, then first we lay the hose as needed, notice which way the fittings are looking and then order. I have also altered this hose and the toad just strangled me to give more money, so I laid it as best I could and pulled it in with ties so that it would not weld anywhere and not rub.

zip ties pulled the hose from the manifold to the tank

in the drain, the hoses point in one direction

Another misunderstanding - someone bought the "cheap pumps" Starke, and I had to choose something else. The choice fell on Timmen.

So - the hole for the tube is a little longer and I had to screw a couple of turns of copper wire under the fitting so that the tube was pulled to the pump body.

from this tube dangles without alterations due to the short thread on the fitting

Again - it is VERY DESIRABLE to make some thread a radiator for the ATF GUR. I looked in stores - nothing impressed me more than my own Patrovsky oil cooler. 550 rubles for almost 3 meters of aluminum finned tubes. Introduced it to the "return". At first I thought for a long time where, but for the supply, the inner diameter is much larger than the return. So it was a “decisive” factor - and it’s probably better to cool AFTER than BEFORE.

you can't even see from the outside

the connecting tubes are reset in the other direction

there is a distance - they will not warm each other

I started it, poured it, twisted it - the system refused to pump over with the radiator. I had to pump the radiator by gravity, and the system without it. Then I connected it. When working, it gets warmer - it means all the rules.

Now about the results. On the field, the steering wheel quietly rotated through the efforts of the 6-year-old youngest son.
Well, since I, along the way, changed the old killed power steering, to the "new" one - the same, only with a range of 10-20tkm across Russia, now in general the song - everything rushes, returns to zero and does not knock on the field.

Video (click to play).

The content of the article:
1. Repair of the steering gear of the UAZ Patriot.
2. Adjustment of the steering gear UAZ Patriot + video by

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